IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


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Hiotographic 

Sciences 

Corporation 


33  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  U580 

(716)  •72-4903 


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** 


CIHM/ICMH 

Microfiche 

Series. 


CIHM/ICIVIH 
Collection  de 
microfiches. 


Canadian  Instituta  for  Historical  Microraproductions  /  Institut  Canadian  da  microraproductions  historiquas 


Tachnical  and  Bibliographic  Notas/Notas  tachniquas  at  bibiiographiquaa 


Tha  Inatituta  haa  attamptad  to  obtain  tha  baat 
original  copy  availabia  for  filming.  Faaturaa  of  thia 
copy  which  may  ba  bibliographically  uniqua. 
which  may  altar  any  of  tha  imagaa  in  tha 
raproduction.  or  which  may  aignificantly  changa 
tha  usual  mathod  of  filming,  ara  chaclcad  balow. 


D 


D 


D 


D 
D 


D 


D 


Colourad  covars/ 
Couvartura  da  coulaur 


I      I    Covara  damaged/ 


Couvartura  andommagAa 

Covars  rastorad  and/or  laminatad/ 
Couvartura  rastaurta  at/ou  palliculAa 


I      I   Covar  title  missing/ 


La  titra  da  couvartura  manqua 


I      I   Coloured  maps/ 


Cartes  giographiques  en  couleur 


Coloured  inic  (i.e.  other  than  blue  or  black)/ 
Encre  de  couleur  (i.e.  autre  que  bleue  ou  noire) 


I      I   Coloured  plates  and/or  illustrationa/ 


Planches  et/ou  illustrations  en  couleur 

Bound  with  other  material/ 
RaliA  avac  d'autras  documents 

Tight  binding  may  cause  shadows  or  distortion 
along  interior  margin/ 

La  re  liure  serr^e  peut  causer  de  I'ombre  ou  de  ia 
distortion  la  long  da  la  marge  intirieure 

Blank  leaves  added  during  reatoration  may 
appear  within  the  text.  Whenever  poaaibla.  these 
have  been  omitted  from  filming/ 
II  se  peut  que  certaines  pages  blanches  ajoutias 
lors  d'une  restauration  apparaissent  dans  la  texte, 
mais.  iorsque  cela  Atait  possible,  ces  pagea  n'ont 
pas  M  filmias. 

Additional  comments:/ 
Commentaires  suppl^mentaires; 


L'Institut  a  microfilm*  la  meilleur  exemplaire 
qu'il  lui  a  At6  possible  de  se  procurer.  Les  details 
da  cet  exemplaire  qui  sont  peut-itre  uniques  du 
point  de  vue  bibliographique,  qui  peuvent  modifier 
une  image  reproduite,  ou  qui  peuvent  exiger  une 
modification  dans  la  m6thode  normale  de  filmage 
sont  indiqu6s  ci-dessous. 


I      I   Coloured  pages/ 


Pagea  de  couleur 

Pages  damaged/ 
Pages  endommagias 

Pages  restored  and/oi 

Pages  reatauries  et/ou  pelliculAes 

Pages  discoloured,  stained  or  foxet 
Pages  dicolories,  tachetAes  ou  piqu^kes 

Pages  detached/ 
Pages  d^tachies 

Showthrough/ 
Transparence 

Quality  of  prir 

Quality  in^gala  de  I'impression 

Includes  supplementary  matarit 
Comprend  du  material  supplimentaire 

Only  edition  available/ 
Seule  Mition  disponible 


I — I  Pages  damaged/ 

r~~|  Pages  restored  and/or  laminated/ 

r~1  Pages  discoloured,  stained  or  foxed/ 

I      I  Pages  detached/ 

r~~|  Showthrough/ 

I      I  Quality  of  print  varies/ 

I      I  Includes  supplementary  material/ 

I — I  Only  edition  available/ 


D 


Pages  wholly  or  partially  obscured  by  errata 
slips,  tissues,  etc.,  have  been  refilmed  to 
ensure  the  best  possible  image/ 
Les  pages  totalement  ou  partiellement 
obscurcies  par  un  feuillet  d'errata,  una  peiure, 
etc.,  ont  M6  filmies  A  nouveau  de  fapon  A 
obtenir  la  meilleure  image  possible. 


a 

( 

rhis  item  is  filmed  at  the  reduction  ratio  checked  below/ 

Ce  document  est  filmt  au  taux  da  rMuction  indiquA  ci-dessous 

10X                            14X                             18X                            22X 

26X 

30X 

1 

^/ 

12X 

16X 

20X 

24X 

28X 

32X 

lire 

details 
ua*  du 
:  modifiar 
gar  una 

filmaga 


Tha  copy  filmad  hara  haa  baan  raproducad  thanks 
to  tha  ganaroaity  of: 

Library  of  tha  Public 
Archivas  of  Canada 

Tha  imagas  appearing  hara  ara  tha  btst  quality 
poaaibia  conaidaring  tha  condition  and  lagibility 
of  tha  original  copy  and  in  keeping  with  the 
filming  contract  specificatlona. 


L'axempiaire  filmA  f ut  reproduit  grice  h  la 
g^nArosit*  de: 

La  bibiiothAqua  das  Archivas 
publiquas  du  Canada 

Lea  imagas  suivantas  ont  M  raproduites  avac  la 
plus  grand  soin.  compta  tenu  de  ia  condition  at 
da  la  nattetA  de  i'exemplaire  film*,  et  en 
conformity  evec  les  conditions  du  contrat  de 
filmaga. 


f 

i6es 


Original  copiaa  in  printed  paper  covers  are  filmed 
beginning  with  the  front  cover  and  ending  on 
the  last  page  with  a  printed  or  illustrated  Impres- 
sion, or  the  back  cover  when  appropriate.  All 
other  original  copies  ara  filmed  beginning  on  the 
first  page  with  a  printed  or  illustrated  imprea- 
sion,  and  ending  on  the  iaat  page  with  a  printed 
or  illustrated  Impression. 


Les  exempleires  originaux  dont  ia  couverture  en 
papier  eet  ImprimAe  sont  filmte  en  commenpant 
par  la  premier  plat  et  en  terminant  soit  par  la 
derniAre  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'impression  ou  d'illustration,  soit  par  la  second 
plat,  salon  ie  cas.  Tous  ies  autras  exempleires 
originaux  sont  filmte  an  commen9ant  par  la 
pramlAre  page  qui  comporte  un9  empreinte 
d'impression  ou  d'illustration  at  an  terminant  par 
la  derniAre  page  qui  comporte  une  telle 
empreinte. 


The  last  recorded  frame  on  each  microfiche 
shall  contain  the  symbol  •^^>  (meaning  "CON- 
TINUED"), or  tha  symbol  Y  (meaning  "END"), 
whichever  applies. 


Un  des  symboles  suivants  apparattra  sur  ia 
darnlAre  image  de  cheque  microfiche,  seion  Ie 
cas:  ia  symbols  — »•  signifie  "A  SUIVRE",  ie 
symbols  V  signifie  "FIN". 


re 


iVIaps.  plates,  charts,  etc.,  may  be  filmed  at 
different  reduction  ratios.  Those  too  large  to  be 
entirely  included  in  one  exposure  are  filmed 
beginning  in  the  upper  left  hand  corner,  left  to 
right  and  top  to  bottom,  as  many  framea  as 
required.  The  following  diagrams  illustrate  the 
method: 


Lea  cartes,  planches,  tableaux,  etc.,  peuvent  Atre 
filmte  A  des  taux  da  rMuctlon  diff6rents. 
Lorsque  Ie  document  est  trop  grand  pour  Atra 
reproduit  en  un  seul  clichA,  il  est  filmA  A  psrtir 
de  I'angia  supArieur  gauche,  de  gauche  A  droite, 
et  de  haut  en  bas.  en  prenant  la  nombra 
d'images  nAcesssire.  Les  diagrammes  suivants 
lllustrant  la  mAthoda. 


y  errata 
id  to 

It 

ie  pelure. 

9on  A 


1 

2 

3 

32X 


1 

2 

3 

4 

5 

6 

fm^^ 


V 

i 


B        f 


MIL 


TRAVELLER'S  GUIDE: 


rilROUGII   THE 


MIDDLE  x\ND  NORTHERN  S  FATES, 


AND  THE 


TROVINCES  OF  CANADA. 


FIFTH  EDITION — ENLARGED  AND  IMPROVED. 


I 


/ 


rUBLISHED  BY  G.  M.  DAVISON  ;    AND  BY  G.  &  C.  &  H. 
CARVILL,  NEW-YORK. 


MDCCCXXXlll. 


/ 


1  0  > 


I 


^ 


Entered  according  to  the  Act  of  Congress,  in  the 
year  tS33,  by  G.  M.  Davison,  in  the  Clerk's  office  of 
the  District  Court  of  the  Northern  District  of  New- 
Vork. 


L \/^ 


} 


If 
4 


1NI>EX. 


i 


Page. 

I  ntroducUou, • 17 

From  Savannah  to  Charleston. 

Savannah,, ••• 19 

Steam-boat  route — tablo  of  distances, 20 

Land  route — tabic  of  distances, id 

Charleston, , 21 

Charleston  and  Augusta  rail  road, 22 

Sullivan's  Island, 23 

From  Charleston  to  J^eia-York. 

Route  by  water — Table  of  distances, 24 

From  Charleston  to  J^urfolk. 

Table  of  distances — Santee  river, 25 

Georgetown — Wilmington — Newbern, 26 

Washington — Plymouth — Roanoke  river, id 

Albemarle  Sound — Ehzabeth  City, 27 

Dismal  Swamp — Dismal  Swamp  canal, id 

Portsmouth— Norfolk, 28 

From  J^orfolk  to  Washington. 

Table  of  distances, 29 

From  Norfolk  to  Baltimore. 

Table  of  distances — Chesapeake  Bay,. 30 

From  J^or/olk  to  Richmond. 

Table  of  distances, 30 

Williamsburgh — Jamestown, 31 


f 


i   ; 


•' 


k^ 


*  ( 


.1- 


\i  INDEX. 

Kiriiiiioiij, ys 

Mnnrhestci, 31 

From  Ulclimond  to  Mimlictllo. 

Mrjiiticcllo-— Grave  of  Jt^Hlrson, .'M 

From  jyionticelto  (o  the  Harm  Springs. 

Warn)  ypringa — Natural  BriHgr, 36 

From  Richmond  to  Washington  City. 

Route  and  table  of  distances — Frederick sburgh,. .  37 

Mount  Vernon, 38 

Alexandria, 39 

Washington  City, 40 

Georgetown, 47 

Chesapeake  and  Ohio  canal, 48 

From  Washingtcn  to  Baltimore. 

Table  of  distances — Baltimore, 49 

Baltimore  and  Ohio  rail  road, 53 

Baltimore  and  Susquehannah  rail  road, 55 

From  Baltimore  to  Philadelphia. 

Stage   route — Wilmington, 68 

Steam-boat  and  rail  road  route — North  Point, ....  59 

Chesapeake  and  Delaware  canal, id 

French  Town  and  Newcastle  rail  road, 60 

Newcastle — Philadelphia, 63 

Internal  improvements — Union  canal, 70 

Pennsylvania  canal, 72 

Schuylkill  canal — Lehigh  canal, 74 

Philadelphia  and  Norristown  rail  road, id 

Columbia  and  Philadelphia  rail  road, 75 

Coal    Mines, id 

From.  Philadelphia  to  the  Schvylkill  Coid  Mines. 

Table  of  disTancos — Norristown, 80 


i 


'• 


i 


37 
38 
39 
40 
47 
48 


49 
53 
55 


58 
59 
id 
60 
G3 
70 
72 
74 
id 
75 
id 


80 


INDEX.  vii 

PoUalown    -Ruadiii'^, ,  i .  , .  SU 

riaml.urffli— Mount  Carbon, 81 

Roufe  to  the  Lchii^h  Coal  Mines. 

iVlaucIt  Chunk, »4 

Mauch  Chunk  rail   road, 85 

Lchi;^h  river, 8G 

The  Landing — Lehij^liton, 87 

Lehigh  Water  Gap— Bethlehem, 88 

Easton, 89 

Morris  canal — Delaware  Water  Gap, 90 

Delaware  Wind  Gap, 91 

trom  Easton  to  Scliooly\s  Mountam  and  thence  to 

^N'eW'  York. 

Table  of  distances  —Schooly's  Mountain, 91 

Newark,  N.J id 

From  Philadelphia  to  J^ew-York, 

Steaui-boat  and  rail  road  route — table  of  distances,  92 

Burlinj^ton — Bristol, id 

Bordentown — Camd(m  and  Amboy  rail  road, 93 

Steam-boat  and  stage  route — table  of  distances, . .  95 

Trenton, , id 

Princetown, 96 

New  Brunswick, 97 

E^erth  Amboy — Elizabethtown—Staten  Island,...  id 

Land  route  and  table  of  distances — New-York,. ,  98 

Principal  Hotels, 107 

Public  coaches — Excursions, 112 

Governor's  and  Bedlow's  Islands, id 

Staten  Island — Patterson — Passaic  Falls, id 

lloboken — Weehawk — Long  Branch, 113 

Harlaem  rail   road, id 

Manhattan   Island, 114 

Hurl  Gate, 115 

Brooklyn, 116 

Discovery  of  the  Hudson, 117 

2* 


} 


; '. 


it 


Mil  INDEX. 

ft'om  ^'eW'York  to  Albany. 

Table  of  distances, 120 

Passage  of  the  Hudson, 121 

Wcehawken — Pallisadoes, 122 

Fort  Lee— Fort  Washington, 123 

Tappan  Bay — Tarrytown, 124 

Haverstraw  Bay—Highlands, 125 

West  Point 126 

Military  Academy, 127 

Pollopel  Island — New  Windsor, 1 29 

Newburgh, 130 

Milton — Pouffhkcepsie — Hyde  Park  Landing,. ...  131 

Delaware  and  Hudson  canal, id 

Catskill, 1 32 

Pine  Orchard, 133 

Athens, 135 

Hudson — Coxsackie  Landing, 136 

Albanj^, 1 37 

Excursions — Mansion  of  Gen.  Van  Rensselaer,  141 

McAdamized  road, id 

U.  S.  Arsenal — Watervliet, 142 

Troy, , 143 

Lansingburgh — Waterford, 144 

The  Junction — Cohoes  Falla, 145 

Van  Schaick's  Island, 146 

Shaker  Settlement, 147 

From  Albany  to  Saratoga  Springs. 

Table  of  distances, 1 50 

Mohawk  and  Hudson  rail  road, 151 

Buel's  Farm, 153 

Schenectady, 1 54 

Saratoga  and  Schenectady  rail  road, ]  56 

Ballston  Lake — Ballston  Spa, 158 

Saratoga  Springs, 163 

From  Saratoga  Springs  to  the  Battle  Ground. 

Saratoga  Lake 1 75 

Bemus*  Heights, 176 


^ 


} 


INDEX.;  IX 

Scliuyler- Ville, 1 79 

Kurt  fedwara, 180 

From  Saratoga  Springs  to  Lake  George. 

Santly  Hill—Glens'  Falls 181 

Jessups'  Falls— lladloy  Falls 182 

Bloody  Pond, 183 

Caldwell — Lake  George, 184 

Fort  William  Plenry, 186 

Passaj^e  of  Lake  George, 1 87 

Ticondcroga, 1 90 

EXCURSION  TO  NIAGARA  FALLS. 

BY  RAIL  ROAD  AND  STAGE. 

Frwn  Saratoga  Springs  to  Buffalo. 

Remarks, 192 

Table  of  distances, 194 

Schenectady — Amsterdam, 195 

Schoharie  Creek — Caughnawaga — Johnstown,. . .   1 96 

Fort  Plain, 197 

Little  Falls, 198 

Petrifactions  at  Osqiiake  Creek, 200 

Flcrkimer, 201 

Utica, f 202 

Trenton  Falls, 205 

New  Hartford — Manchester, 211 

Vernon — Oneida  Castle, id 

Lenox — duality  Hill — Chitteningo, 212 

Manlius, 213 

Jamesville — C)nondaga  Hollow, 214 

Onondaga  Hill — Marcellus, (d 

Skaneateles — Auburn, 215 

State  Prison, 216 

Cayuga — Seneca  Falls, 218 

Waterloo — Geneva, , 219 

Geneva  Lake, 220 

Canandaigua, 221 

Burning  Springs, 224 

3+ 


I 


iiii 

in 


X  INDr.X. 

Kast  lilooiitru-iil, 220 

liinui  -  lilast  Avon — Avon  S(>niifj--( 'al«»li)iii.M,. . .  227 

I  .oroy— Ualavia  to  BnllMo, 22fc< 

EiUE  CANAL. 

Description  oi', 23(i 

Cuiial  PasHa^c — Canal  lloutc, 23!i 

Tabic  of  distances 23 1 

Albany — Troy — Junction — Schenectady, 230 

Amsterdam — Scboliarii^  Creek — CantTbna\va«ia, , ,  id 

Antbony'8  Nose — Sprakcr's  Basin — Canajoharie,..  iJ 

Bowman's  Creek — Fort  Plain, id 

East  Canada  Creek — Mohawk  Custlo, id 

Little  Falls—IJerkimer— Frankfort, 237 

UticR — Whitesborough, , id 

Oriskany — Rome, , 238 

New  London — Chitteningo — Syracuse, 239 

Salina, .....'. 240 

Oswcgjo  Canal — Geddes, 242 

Nine  Mile  Creek— Camillus — Canton, 243 

Jordan — Weed's  Port — Centre  Port, id 

Port  Byron — Lake  Port, id 

Clyde — Palmyra — Fair  Port — Fullom's  Basin,. . .  244 

Great  Embankment — Pittsford — Rochester, 245 

Carthacre, 249 

Spencer's  Basin — Brock  port — IToUy, 250 

Murray — Albion, id 

Portviile — Oak  Orchard — Medina, 251 

Middlepoit — Lockport  to  Buflalo, id 

Buffalo, 253 

Seneca  Village, 255 

WESTEUrs   LAKES. 

Lake  Supeiior-    Lakr  iliii.on — Lake  Michigan,. .   2!iG 

Miehilijnackinac-  Detroit, 257 

L.ake  Eri<', , , . , .  258 


1 


227 
22fc< 


23tJ 

23:4 

231 

23(1 

id 

id 

id 

id 

237 

id 

238 

239 

240 

242 

243 

id 

id 

244 

245 

249 

250 

id 

251 

id 

253 

255 


256 
257 
258 


iNiJt:x.  XI 

Fi'oiH  liaffidu  to  \iu^iini  I'ldls. 

SUyc  r«)ut<'  oil  llio  Arimiican  sidf, 25H 

Static  :ui(l  Sli'am-boat  routr  on  Ili«'  Caiuula  side,. .  id 

Black   IJock-— Waterloo, 259 

<  Ihippcwa  Hatlle  (f  round, 200 

Chippewa  Villa «^(», 2C1 

I5iid(^cwat<;r  01  Liindy'a  Lane, 262 

Btirning  Sprin"; — Niagara   Falls, 264 

Canada  Sido, 206 

American  side, 208 

Biddic  stair  way, 270 

Wclland  Canal, 272 

Unccnston,  battle  of, 274 

Brock's  Monument, 275 

b^ort  Georcfc  or  Newark, 270 

Youn  «rstown — Lewiston, id 

Ridge  Road  or  Alluvial  Way, 277 

Tuscarora  Village — Devil's  Hole, 278 

Whirlpool — Sulphur  Spring — American  Fall,. . . .  279 

LAKE  ONTARIO. 

Description  of, 279 

Route  from  »N*iagara  to  JVfotitrtaZ. 

Dir<=^ctions  and  Description, 280 

Tahle  of  distances, 282 

Charlotte — Great  Sodus  Bay — Oswego, id 

Sacket's  Harbor, 283 

Cape  Vinccmt — Morristown — Ogdenshurgh, 284 

Rapids  of  t lie  St.  Lawrence, ...  285 

Gallop  Islands — St.  Regis — Lachine — Montreal,.  286 

Excnrsions—Lachino, 289 

V^arennes  —  Kidcau  Canal, , 290 

From  Montreal  to  (Imbcc. 

l.)«^s?f'nplion  of  the  route, 296 

William  I  lenry, 297 

LMk<-  St.  IVtor —Three  Rivers— Richelieu  Hapids,  298 


XII  INDEX. 

Sillory  river — Wolfe's  Cove— Point  Lnvi— Uuebcc,  299 

Plains  of  Abrahain, 310 

Marteilo  Towers — Falls  of  Montmorenci, 311 

Lorette, 3)4 

Chaudiere  Falls, 315 

St.  Lawrence  river  below  Gtuebec, 31 G 

Sa^uenay  river, 317 

Mouth  of  the  St.  Lawrence — Return  to  Montreal,.  320 

Route  from  Montreal  to  the  White  Mountains,. . .  id 

From  Montreal  to  Whitehall. 

Table  of  distances — Chambly — St.  Johns, 321 

Lake  Champlain — Lsle  aux  Noix, 322 

Rouse's  Poinl—Plattsburgh, 323 

Dcwnie's  Monument, 324 

Port  Kent — Adgate's  Falls — Hi^»h  Bridge, 326 

Keeseville — Burlington — Split  Rock, 327 

Crown  Point— Ticonderoffa— Mount  Independence,  328 

South  and  East  Bays—Whitehall,. 329 

CHAMPLAIN  CANAL. 

Description  of,. . . .  r 329 

Canal  Route  from  WhitehaU  to  Mbany. 

Table  of  distances, 330 

From  Whitehall  to  Mbany,  by  Stage  and  Rail  Road. 

Table  of  distances, 331 

Fort  Ann — Burgoync's  Road — Sandy  Hill, id 

Fort  Ville — Saratoga  Springs  to  Albany, 332 

ROUTES  TO  BOSTON. 

Remarkf*   relating  to, 332 

From  t/llbany  to  Boston. 

Table  of  distances — New  Lebanon, 333 

Pittsfield, 334 


\' 


i 


..  311 

..  314 

..  315 

..  31G 

..  317 

il,.  320 

id 


..  321 

..  322 

..  323 

..  324 

..  326 

..  327 

!e,  328 

..  329 


330 


i 


}■ 


r 


INDEX.  XIII 

Natural  Bridge, 335 

Northampton, 336 

Mount  Holyoke — Lead  Mine, 337 

Hadley — Regicides,  Whalley  and  Gofle, 339 

Belchertown, 341 

Ware  Factory  Village — Brookfield, 342 

Leicester — Worcester, 343 

Black  stone  canal — Boston  and  Worcester  rail  road,     id 

From   Saratoga  Sfrrings  to  Boston . 

Table  of  distances — Schuyler  Ville, 344 

Union  Village — Manchester — Chester, 345 

Bellows  Falls, 346 

Walpole — Keene — Gioton — Concord, 347 

Lexington, 348 

Cambridge, 349 

From  Whitehall  to  Boston. 

Fairhaven — Castleton, 350 

Rutland, 351 

Chester  to  Boston, , 352 

From  Burlington  to  Boston  through  Winds  or  j  Vt. 

Table  of  distances — Montpelier, 352 

Gulf  road — Randolph — Woodstock — Windsor,  ..  353 
Windsor  to  Boston, 354 

From  Burlington  to  Boston,  by  way  of  the  White  JVfoun- 
tains  and  Concord,  A*.  H. 

Table  of  distances— Hanover  {see  note,) 354 

White  Mountains, 355 

Conway — Fryeburgh, 362 

From  Conway  to  Concord, 

Centre  Harbor — Red  Mountain, 363 

Squam  Lake — Concord, , , , . ,   364 


if 


XIV  INDEX. 

From  Concord  lo  Boston. 

Nashua — Lowell, 3^') 

Boston  and  Lowell  rail  road — Medford — Chavlos- 

town, 36G 

Boston, 367 

Mount  Auburn, 374 

duincy — Dorchester, ■ 375 

Brighton  —Watertown — Charlestown, 376 

Ursuline  Convent, 377 

Breed's  Hill, 378 

Bunker  Hill  IVIonument, 3S1 

Fort  [ndependonce — Nahant,. 382 

Ports  around  Boston  erected  during  the  revolution,  385 

From  Bost  n  to  Portland. 

Table  of  distances — Lynn — Salem, 391   392 

Newburyport — Portsmouth, 393 

Portland, , 394 

From  Portland  to  Q,uebec. 

R»'marks  relative  to  the  route, 396 

Table  of  distances — North  Yarmouth, id 

Freeport — Brunswick, , id 

Bowdointown — Hallowell, — Augusta — Sidney,  . .  397 

Waterville — Bioomiiold — Norridgework,. , 398 

Remainder  of  the  route  to  Cluebec, id 

From  Portland  to  Eastpoi't. 

Table  of  distances, 398 

Bath — Wiscasset — Newcastle — Waldobro', .....  399 

Warren — Thomastown, 400 

Camden — Belfast — Buckstown,. id 

Penobscot — Castine, id 

Machias — Eastport, 401 

Robbinstovvn, 402 

From  Boston  to  ^ew-  York. 
Remarks  relating  to  and  directions, 402 


« 


U 


, .  36G 

, .  367 

,.  374 

.  375 

.  376 

.  377 

.  378 

.  3S1 

.  382 

1,  385 


396 

id 

id 

397 

398 

id 


398 
399 
400 
id 
id 
401 
402 


/ 


INULX.  X\ 

Fi'om  boUon  to  Piovidcnct. 

Rejiiaiks  aiiJ  directions     Table  of  diGtancet?, . . .  .   403 

Roxbury—  Dorchester — Dcdham, id 

Pawtiicktt— IVovidencu, 404 

From  Providenct  to  J^avport. 

Bristol— Newport, 407 

Return  to  Providence, 409 

Fort  Green — Mount  Hope — King  Philip, id 

From  Pi'ovidence  to  J^eto- London. 

Remarks, — Centreville, 413 

Hopkinton — Stonington, 414 

New  London, 415 

Steam-boat  and  stages, 417 

From  J^ew  London  to  J^orioich,  by  steam-boat. 

Thames  River, 417 

Mohegan — Trading  Cove — Norwich, 418 

From  Korwich  to  Hartford. 

Table  of  distances — East  Hartford — Hartford, . . .   420 
Steam-boats  and  stages  from  Hartford, 423 

From  Hartford  to  J^Tew- Haven. 

Table  of  distances — Wethersfield — Rocky  Hill,..  424 

Middletown — Military  Academy, 425 

Natural  Ice  Houses, 426 

Haddam — Saybrook,  (vet  note^) id 

Ncw-Havcn, 428 

Public  Square — Yale  College, 429 

New  burying  ground — Tontine  CofI«3e  House,...   430 

West  Rock, id 

liiast  Rock — Farnungton  canal, 431 

.Steam-boats  from  New  Haven  to  New- York,. . . .   432 
Staffos  from  Ncw-TTiivon, id 


i-f 


,  I 


■  V 


¥ 


i  t 


r      i 


XVI  INDEX. 

Hout<,  from  Mew-Haven  to  J^tw-  York. 

Table  of  distances — Sketch  of  the  route,  {see.  note^)  432 

Bridgeport — Fairfield — Norwalk, id 

Westchester  county — Horsencok — Harlaeni, 433 

From  Mtw-Haven  to  Litchfield. 

Stages — Waterbury, 433 

West  Rock — Watertown — Litchfield, 434 

Mount  Tom —Great  Pond — Chalybeate  Spring,. .  434 
Mount  Prospect, • id 

From  Litchfield  to  Albany. 
Stages  and  intervening  places, 435 

From  Litchfitld  to  Hartford. 

Harwinton — Burlington — Farmington, 435 

Hartford, 436 

Route  up  the  Valley  of  the  Connecticut  River. 

Windsor — Enfield, 436 

Suffield,. 437 

West  Springfield — Springfield, 438 

South  Hadley  Falls, 439 

Northampton — Hadley — Hatfield, 440 

Muddy  Brook, 441 

Deerfield, 442 

Greenfield — Turner's  Falls, 444 

Bernard  stown — Vernon, 445 

Guilford — Brattleboro' — Dummerston — Putney, . .  446 

Westminster — Walpole — Bellows  Falls, id 

Charlestown,  N.  H id 

Springfield,  Vt 447 

Weatlierslield — Windsor — Hartland, 448 

Hartford,  Vt. — Hanover, id 


INTRODUCTION. 


The  oppif  ssivc  heat  of  summer  in  the  soutliern  ycc- 
tiona  of  tho  United  States,  and  the  consequent  expo- 
sure to  illness,  have  long  induced  the  wealthy  part  ol 
the  population  to  seek,  at  that  season  of  the  year,  the 
more  salubrious  climate  of  the  north.  But  the  recent 
gigantic  internal  improvements  in  the  northern  and 
middle  states,  and  the  developement  of  new  and  highly 
interesting  natural  scenery,  together  with  the  increased 
facilities  for  travelling,  have  greatly  augmented  the 
number  of  tourists  within  a  short  period.  The  rail 
roads,  canals,  coal  mines,  the  Springs,  the  Falls,  the 
Lakes,  the  fortifications  of  Cluebec,  the  sublime  moun- 
tain scenery  in  New- York  and  New-England,  with  tho 
various  attractions  presented  in  the  large  commercial 
cities,  cannot  fail  of  insuring  to  a  traveller  a  rich  com- 
pensation for  the  toils  incident  to  a  journey. 

This  work  is  designed  as  a  pocket  manual  and  o^uide 
to  travellers  visiting  these  places.  Our  limits  k)rbid 
that  we  should  indulge  in  elaborate  descriptions  or  mi- 
nute geographical  and  statistical  details.  We  have 
therefore  confined  ourselves  to  subjects  of  more  imme- 
diate interest  to  the  tourist ;  directing  him  in  his  course, 
and  pointing  out,  as  he  passes,  objects  which  most  de- 
serve his  notice  and  regard. 

The  Guide,  it  will  be  perceived,  commences  at  Savan- 
nah, in  Georgia,  though  a  rapid  glance  of  the  country 
merely  is  taken  until  reaching  Washington  City.  The 
travelling  from  south  to  north  being  more  generally  by 
water  than  otherwise,  a  minute  description  of  the  coun- 
try between  Savannah  and  Washington  would  be  unin- 
teresting and  unimportant  to  a  great  proportion  of  the 
readers  of  these  pages.  We  therefore  briefly  notice 
some  of  the  prominent  cities  and  towns,  and  pass  on 
to  those  sections  embraced  within  what  has  been  usual- 
ly denominated  the  Fashion arle  or  Northern  Tour. 


PI.ATCS 

ACCOMPANYING  THIS  WORK. 


! 
■S  r 

i? 


1.  DeviVs  Pulpit,  a  scene  near  Weehawken,  p.  I. 

2.  Dismal  Sicamp^  p.  27. 

3.  ^(EMJ- Fo)  fc,  p.  98.  The  view  IS  taken  from  the  J er« 
soy  shore. 

4.  WeehaivkeUy  p.  122. 

5.  Scene  on  </ie  Hudson,  (»n  entering  the  Highlands 
from  the  south,  p.  125. 

6.  Bnrgoyne's  Swrender,  p.  179. 

7.  Hadley  Falls.  These  are  1 9  miles  north  of  Sarato- 
ga Springs  on  the  Hudson  river.  The  plate  represents 
the  bridge  expending  over  the  rapids,  and  also  the  sur- 
rounding scenery,     p.  182. 

8.  Lake  George.  The  view  is  from  the  head  of  the 
lake,  near  the  ruins  of  Fort  William  Henry,  with  the 
village  of  Caldwell  on  the  left,     p.  184. 

9.  View  near  Ticondcroga,  p  190. 

10.  Trentm  Falls,  p.  205. 

11.  Niagara  Falls.  The  view  is  taken  from  Goat 
Island,  and  exhibits  the  entire  curve  of  the  British  or 
horse-shoe  fall,  with  Forsyth's  Hotel  and  other  houses 
on  the  heights  of  the  Canada  shore,     p.  268. 

12.  State  House,  Boston,  with  the  common  in  front, 
p.  367. 


h 
a 
3 

c 

tl 


g 


THE 


TRAVELLER'S  GUIDE. 


front. 


Savannah,  the  principal  city  in  the  state  of  Georgia, 
is  located  on  the  south-west  bank  of  the  Savannah  riv- 
er, about  17  miles  from  the  bar  at  its  mouth.  The  city 
is  built  on  elevated  ground,  and  cxliibits  a  beautiful  ap- 
pearance from  the  water  ;  its  tall  spires  and  other  pub- 
lic buildings,  with  the  groves  oi  trees  planted  along  its 
streets,  giving  it  an  air  of  peculiar  fascination.  The 
streets  are  wide  and  regularly  laid  out,  and  the  build- 
ings, together  with  the  public  squares,  of  which  there 
are  ten,  exhibit  much  taste  and  elegance.  Of  the  pub- 
lic buildings,  the  city  contains  a  court  house,  jail,  lios- 
pital,  theatre,  cxchauijc,  a  public  library,  3  banks,  and 
10  churches.  The  Presbyterian  church  is  an  elegant 
and  spacious  edifice  of  stone.  The  Exchange  is  a  largo 
building,  5  stories  high.  The  academy,  partly  of  brick, 
and  partly  of  .^tone,  is  180  feet  front,  GO  feet  wide,  and 
3  stories  high.  Savannah  is  by  far  the  most  important 
commercial  town  in  Georgia,  and  is  the  great  mart  of 
the  cotton  planters  for  an  extensive  and  well  settled  re- 
gion of  country.  Steam  boats  ply  regularly  between 
Savannah  and  Charleston,  distance  110  miles,  as  fol- 
lows : 


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FROM   BATANNAH   TO   CUARLCSTON. 


Miles. 

TybeeRouml, 12 

Port  Republican, ....  25 

Beaufort, 10 

South  Edisto, 18 


Miles. 
North  Edisto  Sound,    10 

Light  House, 25 

Charleston  Bar, 3 

Charleston,* 7 


By  land,  the  distance  between  the  two  cities  is  118 
miles,  as  follows : 


Miles. 
From  Savannah  to 
Beck's  Ferry,  on 
the  Savannah  r. . . .  25 
Fitch's,  Echan  road,.   19 

Coosauhatchie, 4 

Pocotalisyo, 6 

Saltketcher  Church,  .     7 


Miles. 

Thompson's  Tavern,  9 

Pompon  P.  Office, ...  11 

Jackson  Borough,. . .  3 

Hick's  Tavern, 10 

Green's  Tavern,  ....  10 

Ashly  River, 8 

Charleston, 6 


On  this  route,  the  tourist  crosses  the  Savannah  nver^ 
which  is  navigable  for  steam  boats  to  Augusta,  105 
miles  above  Savannah,  having  its  rise  150  miles  north- 
west of  the  former  place  ; 

The  Coosauhatchie  river,  which  rises  47  miles  north- 
west of  the  village  of  that  name,  and  falls  into  the  Coo- 
saw  river,  6  miles  south-east ; 

The  Cambahee  river,  which  rises  75  miles  north-west 
of  Saltketcher,  and  falls  into  St.  Helena  Sound,  18 
miles  south-east  from  that  place  ; 

The  Edisto  river,  which  rises  90  miles  north-west  of 
Jacksonboro',  and  falls  into  the  Atlantic  ocean  20  miles 
south-east ;  and 

The  Ashley  river,  which  rises  about  40  miles  north- 
west of  Charleston. 

This  route  is  interspersed  with  rice  and  cotton  plan- 
tations, and  several  handsome  country  seats  of  the  op- 


tnARI.ESTON. 


tl 


Miles. 

d,    10 

..  25 

..     3 

.,     7 

sis  118 


Miles. 

n,  9 

..  11 

..  3 

..  10 

..  10 

..  8 


ih  riveVj 
!ta,  105 
i  north- 

north- 
le  Coo- 

h-west 
ind,  18 

west  of 

0  miles 

1  north- 

n  plan- 
the  op- 


'1 


ulent  owners  of  tlie  soil.  In  the  spring,  the  whole  face 
of  the  country  iissipnes  a  richness  of  verdure  highly  pic- 
turesque and  romantic  ;  which,  however,  becomes  dried 
and  withered  during  tlie  burning  heat  of  a  summer'* 
sun. 

CIIARi^ESTON, 

The  metropolis  of  South  Carolina,  is  alike  distin- 
guished for  the  opulence  and  hospitality  of  its  inhabi- 
tants. On  entering  the  city  from  the  bay,  an  interest- 
ing prospect  is  presented.  The  glittering  spires  of  its 
public  edifices  are  well  calculated  to  give  animation  to 
the  scene.  Some  of  its  streets  are  extremely  beautiful, 
and  many  of  the  houses  are  truly  elegant.  Orange 
trees,  in  the  early  part  of  the  season,  laden  with  fruit, 
and  peach  trees  clothed  with  blossoms,  meet  the  eye  of 
the  traveller,  and  united  with  the  climate  of  the  coun- 
try at  that  time,  render  Charleston  one  of  the  most  at- 
tractive cities  in  the  union.  The  society  is  refined,  in- 
telligent, frank  and  affable. 

The  city  was  founded  and  made  the  seat  of  govern- 
ment of  the  state  in  1680.  It  stands  on  a  dead  level 
with  the  sea,  two  noble  rivers,  the  Ashley  and  the 
Cooper,  enclosing  it  on  a  wide  peninsula  called  the 
Neck.  Most  of  the  houses  contain  a  piazza,  extending 
from  the  ground  to  the  top,  giving  to  the  rooms  in  each 
story  a  shady  open  walk.  Except  in  the  commercial 
parts  of  the  town,  the  houses,  which  are  mostly  paint- 
ed white,  are  generally  surrounded  w^ith  gardens,  trees 
and  shrubbery,  giving  to  them  a  peculiarly  romantic 
and  rich  appearance. 


../ 


!,    ( 


i 


CU.VULESTON. 

Tho  most  celebrated  (MlitJcc!  of  this  are  i\u-  On 

rnAN  A.sTi.nM  and  tin;  Cincui-AR  Ciiuiu  ii.  The  for- 
mer IS  one  of  tlie  best  institutioiiH  f)f  llie  kind  in  tho  Uni- 
ted States,  ft  maintiiina  anfl  educates  1 30  orplian  chil- 
dren, and  is  hi^ldy  honorable  to  the  eiiaracteristic  hu- 
manity and  benevolence  of  the  place,  and  a  happy  illus- 
tration of  the  tone  of  public  feeling.  The  other  public 
buildings  arc  10  or  12  in  number,  exclusive  of  about  20 
churches.  Tho  city  library  13  one  of  the  best  in  tho 
union,  and  contain  nearly  14,000  volumes. 

A  rail  road  is  now  constructing  from  Charleston  to 
Hamburgh,  on  the  Savannah  river,  opposite  Augusta, 
135  miles,  and  will  probably  bo  finished  the  present 
season,  (1833.)  The  charter  was  granted  in  January, 
1828,  and  tho  books  opened  in  tho  following  March  ; 
but  a  small  portion  only  ot  the  stock  was  taken,  yet  the 
company  was  organized,  and  proceeded  to  collect  such 
facts  as  would  shed  light  upon  the  undertaking.  In 
the  winter  of  1828,  '2  J,  an  experimental  line  of  sui*vey 
was  executed,  and  in  the  winter  of  1829,  '30,  the  route 
was  explored  by  Mr.  Horatio  Allen  ;  in  the  mean  time 
a  section  of  three  or  four  miles  was  constructed  and  put 
into  operation  ;  doubts  and  fears  were  in  a  measure 
dispelled,  and  by  great  exertion  the  subscription  to  the 
stock  was  increased  to  $G00,000  in  August,  1830, 
when  the  affairs  of  the  company  assumed  a  promis- 
ing aspect,  and  the  work  has  progressed  rapidly.  In 
tho  construction  of  this  road  wood  alone  is  used,  with 
the  exception  of  a  flat  bar  of  iron  on  the  surface.  Piles 
are  driven  into  the  earth  on  each  side  of  the  path,  on 
the  top  of  which  and  at  right  angles  with  the  path,  a 
sleeper  is  placed  ;  the  rail  of  wood,  six  by  ten  inches 


J 

i 


4 


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) 


SULLITAN^S   ISLAND. 


S3 


4 
1 


> 


«quarc,  is  fastened  to  the  Hleepera.  This  is  a  very  cheap 
mode  of  construction,  and  very  liable  to  decay  ;  it  how- 
ever answers  present  purposes,  and  will  enable  the  com- 
pany to  rebuild  the  road  at  a  future  period,  of  more  per- 
manent matcriaJM,  and  at  a  much  less  expense.  Steam 
carriagoH  have  been  placed  on  the  road,  and  have  been 
m  successful  opcrati  )n  for  some  time.  This  communi- 
cation with  the  interior  will  prove  of  great  importance 
to  the  city  as  well  as  country,  and  the  receipts,  it  is 
believed,  will  give  a  fair  dividend  to  the  stockholders. 

Sullivan's  Island,  which  lays  at  the  distance  of  7 
miles  from  the  city,  at  the  entrance  of  the  harbor,  is  a 
spot  consecrated  as  the  theatre  of  important  events  du- 
ing  the  revolution.  On  this  island  is  Fort  Moultrie, 
rendered  glorious  by  the  unyielding  dcsparation  with 
which  it  sustained  the  attack  of  the  British  fleet  in  the 
war  of  our  independence.  The  fleet  consisted  of  about 
fifty  sail ;  and  on  the  first  annunciation  of  its  approach, 
lay  within  six  leagues  of  the  island.  It  was  a  time  of 
awful  and  anxious  suspense  to  the  garrison  in  the  fort, 
and  to  the  inhabitants  of  the  city.  The  public  mind 
had  become  deeply  impressed  with  ideas  of  English 
valor  ;  and  difiident  of  its  own  power,  looked  with  pain- 
ful anxiety  towards  the  issue  of  the  coming  contest. 

About  this  period  a  proclamation  reached  the  shore, 
under  the  sanction  of  a  flag,  in  which  the  British  com- 
mander, Sir  Henry  Clinton,  held  out  the  promise  of 
pardon  to  all  who  would  resign  their  arms  and  co-ope- 
rate in  the  re-establishment  of  loyalty.  But  the  royal 
proposition  met  with  the  rejection  which  it  deserved. 
The  militia  of  the  adjacent  country  crowded  the  streets 

b2 


I 

t 

I 


21 


sullivanVs  inland. 


of  Charleston  ;  the  citizens  threw  down  their  imple- 
ments of  industry,  and  grasped  their  anna  in  defence  of 
their  native  city.  On  the  28th  of  June,  177C,  Fort 
Moultrie  was  attacked  hy  ahoiit  ten  ships,  frigates  and 
sloops,  and  was  defended  in  a  manner  tluit  would  have 
honored  the  heroic  veterans  of  Greece  or  Home. 

During  this  engagement,  the  inhabitants  stood  at 
their  respective  posts,  prepared  to  meet  the  advancing 
foe.  They  had  determined  to  grapplo  with  the  enemy 
as  he  landed,  and  surrender  their  liberty  only  with  their 
lives.  But  so  manfully  did  the  garrison  withstand  the 
conflict,  that  the  fleet  was  compelled  to  withdraw,  leav- 
ing the  inhabitants  in  the  unmolested  enjoyment  of 
their  rights. 

The  influence  of  this  expedition  was  most  auspicious 
to  the  cause  of  Amc  can  liberty.  It  strengthened  the 
trembling  hopes  and  dispersed  tlie  fears  of  the  inhabi- 
tants. They  had  seen  the  result  of  this  attempt,  and 
now  felt  the  triumphant  assurance  that  the  aacrod 
cause  in  which  they  had  enlisted  would  eventually  suc- 
ceed. 

The  communication  between  Charleston  and  Ncw- 
Yoik  is  rendered  frequent  by  convenient  and  com- 
modious packets  that  ply  from  one  place  to  the  other. 
A  journey  by  land,  until  reaching  Norfolk,  is  tedious 
and  uninteresting  ;  the  public  inns,  except  in  the  large 
towns,  are  generally  poor,  and  a  voyage  by  water  is  the 
uniform  choice  of  the  fashionable  and  genteel  portion 
of  the  community. 

The  distance  by  water  from  Charleston  to  New- 
York  is  670  miles,  and  the  intermediate  distances  are 
»J3  follows ; 


! 


t 


} 


FROM   tllAnLLSTON   TO   NORFOLK. 


25 


Miles. 

UlT Cape  Fear, 120 

Capn  Look  ( )ut,  75 
Cape  I J  ait  trap,,  78 
Capos  of  Vii  «Tinia,  1  10 
Capo  May, 120 


Miles. 
Onrnarnerral  Inlet,  ...  70 

TheUar 15 

Sfiiuly  Uook,. ..,,...     3 

Tlio  Narrows,  , , II 

Now- York, 8 


r 


t 

i 


FROM  CHARLESTON  TO  NORFORK, 

by  the  coasty 
Is  419  miles,  and  the  intermediate  distances  arc  as 
follows : 

Miles. 
By  land. 

Greenwich, 4 

Wapetan  Church, ....  15 

Tweeden Cottons,. ...  17 

Santec  R.,  S.  Branch, ,  10 

N.  Branch,  2 

GcoriTctown, 11 


On  th(^  Sands, 


20 


v^arcnnos,  N.  C 13 

Sniithvillo, 2G 

Brunswick, 12 

W  ihninfTton, 18 

Ilcnnita^e, 6 

S.  Washington, 24 

Rhode's, 24 


Trenton, 11 

Newborn, , , 20 

Washinp;ton, 35 

Plymouth, 35 

M  ou  th  of  II  oanok  c  R .     8 

By  sfffim  boat. 
Wade's  Point,  Albe- 
marle Sound, 45 

Elizabeth  C  ity, 17 

By  land. 
Pasquotank  River,  ..    12 
N.  Carolina  state  lino,  10 

Portsmouth 20 

Norfolk,  ..', 1 


The  Santec,  passed  on  this  route,  is  the  principal  riv- 
er in  South  Carolina.  R  is  formed  by  a  union  of  the 
Congarec  and  Watcree  about  25  miles  south  east  of 
Columbia,  and  falls  into  the  ocean  by  two  mouths 
aboat  12  miles  south  east  from  where  it  is  crossed.  A 
canal,  22  miles  long,  connects  the  Santec  with  Cooper 
river,  through  which  large  quantities  oi"  produce  arc 
annually  conv<  ycd  to  Charleston. 


26 


FROM  CHARLESTON  TO  NORFOLK. 


it 


Georgetown,  the  capital  of  the  district  of  that  name, 
is  located  on  Winyaw  bay,  near  the  mouth  of  the  Pe- 
dee  river,  and  13  miles  from  the  ocean.  It  contains  a 
population  of  between  2  and  3000  inhabitants,  and  is  a 
place  of  very  considerable  trade. 

Wilmington,  N.  G.  is  the  capital  of  New-Hanover 
county.  It  is  situate  on  the  north  east  side  of  Cape 
Fear  river,  just  below  a  union  of  its  branches,  to  wliich 
place  the  river  is  navigable  for  vessels.  The  town  con- 
tains a  court  house,  jail,  academy,  2  banks,  2  churches, 
and  between  2  and  3000  inhabitans  ;  and  is  the  great- 
est shipping  port  in  the  state.  It  was  visited  by  a 
conflagration  in  1819,  by  which  200  buildings,  val- 
ued at  $1,000,000,  were  destroyed  ;  and  by  another 
in  1828,  in  which  50  buildings  were  burned,  valued  at 
$130,000. 

Newbern  is  situated  on  the  south  side  of  Neuse  riv- 
er, 30  miles  from  Pamlico  Sound.  It  is  the  largest 
town  in  North  Carolina,  containing  a  population  of 
nearly  4000  inhabitants.  There  are  in  this  place  a 
court  house,  jail,  theatre,  2  banks  and  3  churches. 

Washington  is  located  on  the  north  side  of  the  Pam- 
lico river,  and  contains  a  population  of  about  1200  in- 
habitants. 

Plymouth,  the  capital  of  Washington  county,  is  sit- 
uate on  tiie  north  side  of  the  Roanoke  river,  and  5 
miles  from  Albemarle  Sound. 

The  Roanoke  river  rises  in  the  state  of  Virginia,  pur- 
suing a  crooked  course  to  Albemarle  Sound,  into  which 


^ 


IFOLK. 

trict  of  that  name, 
nouth  of  the  Pe- 
n.  It  contains  a 
ibitants,  and  is  a 

if  New-Hanover 
ist  side  of  Cape 
oinehes,  to  which 

The  town  con- 
nks,  2  churches, 
nd  is  the  great- 
as  visited  by  a 

buildings,  val- 
ind  by  another 
irned,  valued  at 

le  of  Neuse  riv- 
t  is  the  largest 
.  population  of 
n  this  place  a 
churches. 

ide  of  the  Pam- 
about  1200  in- 


county,  is  sit- 
>  river,  and  5 

Virginia,  pur- 
id,  into  which 


il 


€ 


!.  ■<•■ 


il      H 


I.   i 


) 


FROM  CHARLESTON  TO  VORFULK. 


«7 


IJi 


a 


#: 


) 


it  empties  by  several  clianncls,  230  miles  from  its 
source.  It  is  navicrablc  about  30  miles  for  vessels  of 
consitlcrablc  burthen,  and  for  boats,  70  miles.  The 
banks  arc  fertile  and  well  settled. 

Mhemarle  Sound  is  in  the  north  cast  part  of  North 
Carolina,  on  the  coast.  It  extends  from  cast  to  west 
62  miles,  and  is  from  4  to  15  miles  wide.  It  is  con- 
nected with  Pamlico  Sound  by  several  narrow  inlets, 
and  with  the  Chesapeake  Bay  by  a  canal  through  the 
Dismal  Swamp. 

A  steam  boat  is  taken  at  the  mouth  of  the  Roanoke 
across  the  Albemarle  Sound  to 

Elizabeth  City,  the  capital  of  Pasquotank  county, 
N.  €.  The  town  is  located  on  the  bank  of  the  Pas- 
quotank river,  which  has  its  source  in  the  Dismal 
Swamp.  It  contains  a  court  house,  jail  and  4  church- 
es. From  Elizabeth  City  the  road  to  Norfolk  lies  on 
the  bank  of  the  canal,  23  miles  long,  cut  through  tho 

Dismal  Sicamp.  This  swamp  is  a  tract  of  marshy 
land,  generally  covered  with  pine,  juniper  and  cypress 
trees.  It  is  30  miles  long  from  north  to  south,  and  10 
broad.  In  the  centre  is  Drummond's  Pond,  15  miles  in 
circumference. 

The  Canal,  through  this  swamp,  proves  of  immense 
advantage  to  the  eastern  section  of  North  Carolina. 
Formerly  their  coasting  trade  was  through  the  Ockra- 
cock  inlet,  by  the  tedious,  hazardous  and  expensive  sea 
route  ;  but  the  canal  forms  an  easy,  safe  and  cheap 
means  of  conveyance,  and  aflbrds  more  extensive  mar- 
kets.    Near  the  centre  of  its  extreme  points  is  the  June- 


■  I 


m.  :i 
1 X 


■■' 


2S 


NOUFOI.K. 


tion  of  what  is  called  the  North  West  Canal,  which  is 
six  miles  long,  and  connects  North  West  River  (which 
empties  into  Currituck  Sound  in  North  Carolina)  with 
the  main  canal,  opening  an  avenue  to  market  for  the 
vast  stores  of  timber  in  that  section  suitable  for  naval 
purposes,  besides  the  various  other  products  of  the 
country.  On  the  main  canal,  the  basin  at  Deep  Creek 
is  a  beautiful  sheet  of  water,  half  a  mile  long,  and  15 
feet  above  tide  water.  The  lockage  is  40  feet ;  and  the 
locks,  which  are  stone,  arc  of  the  best  workmanship. 

Portsmouth  is  pleasantly  located  on  the  south  west 
side  of  Elizabeth  river,  opposite  Norfolk.  It  contains  a 
court-house,  jail  and  4  churches,  and  between  2  and 
3000  inhabitants. 

Norfolk,  the  commercial  capital  of  Virginia,  is  situ- 
ated on  the  east  side  of  Elizabeth  river,  immediately  be- 
low the  junction  of  its  two  main  branches,  and  eight 
miles  above  Hampton  roads,  and  had  a  population,  in 
1830,  of  9,800.  The  town  lies  low,  and  is  in  some  pla- 
ces marshy,  though  the  principal  streets  are  well  paved. 
Among  the  public  buildings  are  a  theatre,  3  banks,  an 
academy,  marine  hospital,  atheneum,  and  6  churches. 
The  harbor,  which  is  capacious  and  safe,  is  defended  by 
several  forts.  One  is  on  Craney  island,  near  the  mouth 
of  Elizabeth  river.  There  are  also  fortifications  at 
Hampton  roads  ;  the  principal  of  which.  Fort  Calhoun, 
is  not  yet  completed. 

The  J^avy  Yard  at  Gosport,  on  the  bank  of  the  Eliza- 
beth river,  nearly  opposite  Norfolk,  is  deserving  the  at- 
tention of  strangers.  A  superb  dock  has  been  con- 
stnicted  at  this  place,  similar  to  that  at  Charlestown, 


i 


FROM  NORFOLK  TO  WASHINGTON. 


29 


which  is 
r  (which 
na)  with 
)t  for  the 
or  naval 
3  of  the 
p  Creek 
,  and  15 

and  the 
iship. 

ith  west 

ntains  a 

2  and 


is  situ- 
tely  be- 
i  eight 
ion,  in 
le  pla- 
paved. 
ks,  an 
irches. 
led  by 
nouth 
ns  at 
loun, 

Hza- 

leat- 

con- 

Dwn, 


near  Boston.  The  length  of  the  bottom,  from  the  inner 
or  foremost  block,  to  that  which  is  nearest  the  gates,  is 
206  feet,  besides  50  feet  of  spare  room — sufficient  to 
hold  a  small  vessel.  The  width  of  the  dock,  at  the  top, 
is  86  feet.  As  the  tide  rises  and  falls  but  3  or  4  feet, 
the  water  is  pumped  out,  when  necessary,  by  steam 
engines. 

From  Norfolk  to  Washington  city  or  Baltimore,  the 
routes  are  usually  performed  by  steam-boats.  The  in- 
termediate distances  are  as  follows  : 

FROM  NORFOLK  TO  WASHINGTON, 

195  miles.* 


Miles. 
Mouth  of  Elizabeth 
river, ,     9 

Mouth  of  James  river,    6 
Mouth  of  York  river, 

Old  Point  Comfort,  20 
New  Point  Comfort,.  10 
Rappahannock  river,    15 


JSIilcs 
Off  Outlet  St.  Mary's 

river, 42 

Off  Port  Tobacco,...   38 
Mouth  of  Potomac  riv- 
er,      15 

Mount  Vernon, 25 

Alexandria, 9 

Washington, 6 


*  The  route  is  down  the  Ehzabeth  river  till  it  enters 
the  Chesapeake  Bay — thence  up  the  bay  to  the  mouth 
of  the  Potomac,  which  is  entered,  the  boat  proceeding 
up  the  river,  and  passing  Mount  Vernon  and  Alexan- 
dria, noticed  at  pages  38,  39. 


J 


ma 


ili 


3  k 


fi 


r  ^ 


I 


; 


9  '  f 


■  I 


i 


30  FROM  NORFOLK    TO    RICHMOND. 

FROM  NORFOLK  TO  BALTIMORE, 
191  miles. 


Miles, 
To  the  mouth  of  the 
Rappahannock,  as 
in  the  preceding 

table, 60 

Smith's  Point, 25 

Outlet  of  Potomac,     10 
Outlet  of  Pautuxent 
river, 18 


Miles. 

Cone  Point, 5 

Sharp's  Island, 15 

Tlurec  Sisters, 16 

Annapohs, 10 

Sandy  Point, 6 

Mouth  of  the  Pataps- 

co  river,  .........  11 

Baltimore,  * 15 


The  Chesapeake  Bay,  the  principal  water  commu- 
nication on  the  foregoing  routes,  stretches  in  a  direction 
nearly  north  from  the  mouth  of  James  river,  or  Lynha- 
ven  Bay,  to  the  mouth  of  the  Susquchannah  river,  near 
the  north  line  of  Maryland.  It  is  180  miles  long,  and 
varies  from  10  to  25  miles  in  breadth,  dividing  the 
states  of  Virginia  and  Maryland  into  two  parts,  called 
the  eastern  and  western  shores.  It  has  numerous  com- 
modious harbors,  and  affords  a  safe  navigation.  Among 
the  waters  which  flow  into  it,  (commencing  north)  are 
the  Susquchannah,  Potomac,  Rappahannock,  York 
and  James  rivers.  It  has  been  estimated  that  the  Ches- 
apeake Bay,  including  its  minor  bays  and  inlets,  con- 
tains an  aggregate  of  3600  square  miles. 

FROM  NORFOLK  TO  RICHMOND, 
The  usual  route  is  by  water  up  the  James  river  ;  on 
which  steam  boats  are  constantly  plying  between  the 
two  places.    We,  however,  give  the  routes  by  land  and 
water,  with  the  intermediate  distances  : 

+  See  i)ngc  49. 


1 


•i 


Miles. 
..  5 
..  15 
,.  16 
..  10 
..     6 


11 
15 


'to 

i)  are 

York 

Chcs- 

con- 


1 


^ 


JAMESTOWN. 


31 


By  water — 122  niilc8. 

MUes. 
Mouth  of  Elizabeth  r.     9 

Day's  Point, 10 

Hog  Island, 16 

Swan's  Point,  .•••••     9 

Chickahomany  r 4 

Fort  Powhatan, 21 

Eppc's  Island, 17 

Chesterfield, 23 

Richmond, 13 


By  land — 1 10  miles. 

MUes. 
Mouth  of  Elizabeth  r.     9 
Cross  Hampton  Roads 

to  Hampton, 8 

Half-way  House, ....    11 

York, 10 

Williamsburgh, 12 

Chiswcll, 14 

Cumberland, 16 

Chickaliomany  river,    16 
Richmond, .........    14 


Williamsburgh,  50  miles  from  Norfolk,  is  situated 
between  York  and  James  rivers,  and  was  formerly  the 
metropolis  of  the  state.  Its  streets  are  regularly  laid 
out,  and  many  of  the  buildings  arc  handsome.  Wil- 
liam and  Mary's  College,  located  in  this  place,  was 
founded  in  1691,  and  was  liberally  endowed  at  that 
time  by  the  reigning  king  and  queen  of  England.  It 
has  a  library  of  between  3  and  4000  volumes,  and  a  val- 
uable philosopliical  apparatus. 

Jamestown,  between  50  and  60  miles  below  Rich- 
mond, on  the  north  side  of  James  River,  was  founded 
in  1608,  and  was  the  first  English  settlement  in  the 
United  States.  The  scite  is  a  very  beautiful  one,  and 
the  settlement  itself  must  have  been  but  a  few  steps 
from  the  river.  On  each  side  there  is  a  delightful  and 
variegated  succession  of  woodlands,  meadows,  pas- 
tures, and  green  fields  :  in  front,  appears  the  broad  ex- 
panse of  James  river,  with  its  multitude  of  white,  ghd- 
ing  sails.  The  opposite  hills  are  picturesque  :  some 
arc  entirely  covered  with  woods  ;  others,  partly  clear- 

c 


t 


.1 


V 


1^ 


32 


^ 


^  (^ 


JAMESTOWN. 


ed,  pr(3scntinor,  in  tlio  projXT  floaeoTi,  pntchoa  of  white, 
wuvy  (M)rn.  To  iiicivjiso  llio  riclinc^ys  of  tliis  scenery, 
here  niul  there  ure  (listin«.niishe(l  the  <»lil  and  rlefruut 
mansions  of  tlie  Virginia  planters,  like  points  of  beauty 
in  a  (inii  i)icture. 

No  vesti«re  of  Janiesfovvn  in  now  to  he  seen,  except 
the  ruins  of  a  church  steeple,  about  30  feet  hi^rh,  and 
fringed  lo  it;-?  snunit  witli  running  ivy.  Near  by  is  a 
buryin<r  jfrminid  with  its  venerable  tombstones,  and 
spotted  with  dark  jrreen  shrubbery  and  melancholy 
Howers.  It  looks  like  a  lonely,  unfrequented  place, 
and  there  is  somethini]^  deeply  interesting  in  contein- 
platinrj  these  vestiges  of  an  a<xe  pone  l»y. 

In  this  scene  of  silence  and  of  solitude,  the  rude  fore- 
fathers of  the  hamlet  have,  for  ap:es,  rested.  Nothing 
at  this  day  remains  i)ut  the  land  tlu>y  cultivated,  and 
the  o^raves  in  which  they  repose  ;  but  the  places  are 
well  known,  and  with  increasing  years  will  grow  more 
venerable  and  illuslrious. 

The  celebrsited  Pocltahontas  (daughter  of  the  Indian 
chief  Powhatan)  was  the  tutelary  guardian  of  this  set- 
tlement ;  and  some  of  her  descendants  are  now  living 
in  Virginia.  Among  the  most  distinguished,  is  the 
Hon.  John  Randolph.  His  descent  is  thus  given  in  a 
Virginia  paper : 

"  Pochahontas  was  afterwards  in  London,  in  compa- 
ny with  her  husband,  wliosc  name  was  Rolf,  an  Eng- 
lishman by  birth.  She  was  presented  to  the  King  and 
Queen,  by  Lady  Delaware  and  her  husband.  She  was 
present  at  several  masquerades  and  assemblies,  all 
which  sights  gave  her  great  gratification.  Soon  after- 
tcrwards,  having  embarked  on  board  the  ship  George, 


«,   ' 


fi 


UICIIIVIONI). 


33 


s 


from  London,  for  Viri^'inia,  hIic  fell  sick,  and  died  ut 
(Jnivesorid. 

"  llfM-  yoiin«T  child,  ThoiriaH  Rolf,  was  loft  at  Plym- 
outh, n ruler  the?  care  of  Sir  Thorniis  Stukoly,  who  do- 
wirod  to  keep  it.  Pochahontas  died  in  1(517,  at^cd  23. 
Thomas  l{ol|)li,  hor  son,  aft<'rwardH  hocamo  a  citizen  of 
Vir^Miiia.  1 1«'  left  at  his  death  a  dau<j^liter  ;  this  daii^rli- 
tor  married  ( 'ol.  llohert  Ijoliin*;,  hy  whom  she  left  an 
only  son  and  five;  dan«rhters,  who  were  married  respec- 
tively to  Col.  lliehard  Randolph,  Col.  J(»hn  Flemini^, 
Doet.  William  Gay,  Mr.  Thomas  Eldridge,  and  Mr. 
James  Murray. 

"  The  nohio  blood  of  Poehahontas  flows  in  many 
veins  ;  and  the  Orator  of  Roanoke  boasts  his  descent 
from  the  daui^ditcr  of  Powhatan." 


)mpa- 
Eng- 
and 


l.fT 


IS,  all 

lafter- 
prge, 


RiCTiMOND,  the  capital  of  Vir.fxinia,  is  situated  on  the 
north  baidc  of  James  river,  directly  at  its  lower  falls,  at 
the  head  of  tide  water,  and  1.50  ?niles  from  its  inouth. 
The  town  rises  in  an  aclivity  from  the  water,  and  pre- 
sents a  beautiful  and  hi<j;hly  picturesfpic  appearance. 
A  part  of  the  town,  on  what  is  called  Schockoc  hill, 
overlooks  the  lower  part  ;  and  from  the  capitol,  which 
is  on  the  greatest  eminence,  a  most  delightfid  prospect 
is  had  of  the  river  and  adjacent  country.  J3esides  the 
cafHtol,  which  is  a  handsome  clifice,  the  city  contains 
an  cleizant  court  house,  a  state  prison,  (which  cost 
$135,000)  an  alms  house,  2  markets,  a  museum,  an 
academy  of  fine  arts,  a  female  orphan  asylum,  3  banks, 
and  8  churches  ;  one  of  which,  built  on  the  mins  of  the 
theatre  in  the  conflnfTrn-tion  of  which  90  citizens  perish- 
ed, is  very  beautiful.    At  the  Virginia  armory,  which  is 


r 


34 


MONTICELLO. 


.^i 


erected  here,  arc  manufactured  Ix'tvvcfn  4  and  5000 
muskets  and  rifles  annually.  The  [)oi>ulation  of  the 
city  in  1830,  was  1G,085. 

Manchester,  directly  opposite,  is  connected  with 
Richmond  by  two  substantial  bridges,  and  is  a  flour- 
ishing place. 

Among  the  many  objects  of  attraction  in  Virginia, 
arc  Monticello,  the  former  residence  of  ex-president 
Jefferson,  the  Warm  and  Hot  Springs,  the  Natural 
B^-idge,  and  the  Berkley  Springs. 

From  Richmond  to  Monticello^  the  distance  is  80  miles, 
in  a  north-westerly  direction  ;  the  road  passing  Gooch- 
land county  line,  distant  20  miles ;  Fluvanna  county 
line,  33  ;  Gordonsville,  12  ;  Milton,  on  the  Rivanna 
river,  12  :  Monticello,  3. 

MoNT!'  ELLO,  was  much  resorted  to  during  the  life 
time  of  its  sage  and  philosopher  ;  and  since  his  de- 
cease, the  consecrated  spot  of  his  interment  is  a  place 
of  frequent  visitation.  It  is  thus  described  by  a  late 
traveller : 

"  I  ascended  the  winding  road  which  leads  from 
Charlottesville  to  Monticello.  The  path  leads  a  cir- 
cuitous ascent  of  about  2  miles  up  the  miniature  moun- 
tain, on  which  stand  the  mansion,  the  farm,  and  the 
grave  of  Jefferson.  On  entering  the  gate  which  opens 
into  the  enclosure,  numerous  paths  diverge  in  various 
directions,  winding  through  beautiful  groves  to  the 
summit  of  the  hiU.  From  the  peak  on  which  the  house 
stands,  a  grand  and  nearly  illuminated  view  opens,  of 
the   thickly   wooded   hills  and   fertile   vallics,   which 


*? 


MONTICF.M.O. 


35 


J 


'^ttretrh  out  on  either  sido.  The  TTnivorsity,  with  its 
<lome,  porticoes,  and  colonudcs,  Iuok;i  like  a  fair  city  in 
the  plain  ;  Charlottesville  sonnis  to  he  directly  honeath. 
No  spot  can  be  imagined  as  combining  greater  advan- 
tages of  grandeur,  healtijfulness  and  seclusion.  The 
house  is  noble  in  its  appearance  ;  two  large  columns 
support  a  portico,  which  extends  from  the  wings,  and 
into  it  the  front  door  opens.  The  apartments  are  neat- 
ly furnished  and  embellished  with  statues,  busts,  por- 
traits, and  natural  curiosities.  The  grounds  and  out 
houses  have  been  neglected  ;  Mr.  Jefferson's  attention 
being  absorbed  from  such  personal  concerns,  by  the 
cares  attendant  on  the  supcrintendancc  of  the  Univer- 
sity, which,  when  in  health,  he  visited  daily  since  its 
erection  commenced. 

"  At  a  short  distance  behind  the  mansion,  in  a  quiet, 
shaded  spot,  the  visitor  sees  a  square  enclosure,  sur- 
rounded by  a  low  unmortered  stone  wall,  which  he  en- 
ters by  a  neat  wooden  gate.  This  is  the  family  burial 
ground,  containing  10  or  15  graves,  none  of  them 
marked  by  epitaphs,  and  only  a  few  distinguished  by 
any  memorial.  On  one  side  of  this  simple  cemetry,  is 
the  resting  place  of  the  Patriot  and  Philosopher.  When 
I  saw  it,  the  vault  was  just  arched,  and  in  readiness  for 
the  plain  stone  which  is  to  cover  it.  May  it  ever  con- 
tinue like  Washington's  without  any  adventitious  at- 
tractions or  conspicuousness  ;  for,  when  we  or  our  pos- 
terity need  any  other  memento  of  our  debt  of  honor  to 
those  names,  than  their  simple  inscription  on  paper, 
wood  or  stone,  gorgeous  tombs  would  be  a  mockery  to 
their  memories.    When  gratitude  shall  cease  to  con- 

c2 


36 


KATURAL    BAIDCe. 


1 


I 


^1^ 


l^ 


secratc  their  remembrance  in  the  hearts  of  our  citi- 
zens, no  cenotaph  will  inspire  the  reverence  we  owe  to 
them." 

From  Monticello  to  the  Warm  Sprine;s^  is  91  miles,  in 
a  westerly  direction,  paaningr  through  Charlottesville  2 
miles,  Rockfish  Gap  24,  Waynesboro'  2,  Staunton  12, 
Cloverdalo  28,  Green  Valley  10;  from  whence  to  the 
Warm  Springs  is  13  miles.  The  temperature  of  these 
springs  is  about  96°,  and  sufficient  water  issues  from 
them  to  turn  a  mill.  They  are  used  for  bathing,  and 
are  esteemed  valuable  in  rheumatic  complaints. 

The  Bath  or  Hot  Spring  is  5  miles  farther.  The 
stream  is  small ;  but  the  temperature  is  much  greater 
than  that  of  the  Warm  Springs,  being  112o. 

These  springs  flow  into  the  Jackson,  a  source  of  the 
James  river. 

The  Natural  Bridge  is  150  miles  west  of  Rich- 
mond, and  by  diverging  to  the  left,  without  visiting 
Monticello,  may  be  taken  in  the  route  to  wie  Warm 
Springs.  This  bridge  is  over  Cedar  creek,  in  Rock- 
bridge county,  12  miles  south  west  of  Lexington,  and 
is  justly  considered  one  of  the  greatest  natural  curiosi- 
ties in  the  world.  The  river  at  this  place  runs  through 
a  chasm  in  a  hill.  The  chasm  is  90  feet  wide  at  the  top, 
200  feet  deep,  and  the  sides  almost  perpendicular.  The 
bridge  is  formed  by  a  huge  rock  thrown  completely 
across  this  chasm  at  the  top.  The  rock  forming  the 
bridge  is  60  feet  broad  in  the  middle,  and  is  covered 
with  earth  and  trees.    It  forms  a  sublime  spectacle 


w 


■:-r\ 


•3" 


FROM    RICHMOND    TO    \VASMI\(.TON. 


1 


when   examined    from    tlio    inarLnn    of  the    rivor   be- 
neath.* 

FROM  lUCHMOND  T(.)  WASHINGTON 

CITY— 120  miles. 
A  stai;e  is  ocncnilly  taken  at  llichinond  for  the  mouth 
of  tlie  Potomac  creek,  9  miles  beyond  Fre(h'riekshiugh  ; 
from  whence  steam  boats  pass  up  tlie  Potomac  to 
Washington.  The  intcrmcdiuto  distances  are  as  fol- 
lows : 


By  sta<re.       JMiles. 
From    Richmond    to 
Chickaliomanv  riv- 


er,     10 

Hanover  Court  House,  10 

White  Cliimneys,..  ••  10 

Mattapony  river, ....  8 

BowHn^  Green, 6 

Vileboro', 8 


J)Iiles. 

Fredericksbiirr^h,. . . ,  14 
iVtouth  of  Potomac 

creek, 9 

By  sleain-boat. 

Mount  Vernon, 30 

Alexandria, 9 

W^ishington, 6 


Fredericksburgii  is  situated  on  the  south  side  of 
the  Rappahannock  river,  110  miles  from  its  outlet  into 


Vi 


*  A  student  of  one  of  the  Virginia  coilecres,  a  few 
years  since,  attempted  the  daring  effijrt  of  climbinpf  up 
one  of  the  sides  of  this  precipice.  He  liad  ascended  50 
or  60  feet  before  he  was  aware  of  the  extreme  hazard  of 
the  undertaking.  It  was  then  too  late  to  retreat,  and 
to  progress  seemed  certain  destruction.  He,  however, 
continued  ascending  from  one  crevice  to  another,  hold- 
ing on  the  occasional  protuberances  of  the  rock,  imtil 
he  reached  tlie  top.  I3ut  so  arduous  was  the  labor, 
that  his  hands  and  limbs  were  severely  lacerated,  and 
such  was  the  effect  on  his  mind  of  the  perils  and  dan- 
gers encountered,  that  he  became  partially  deranged, 
and  never  fully  recovered  the  possession  of  his  mental 
faculties. 


Ill 


38 


MOUNT    VERNON. 


the  Chesapeake  Bay.  It  contains  a  court-house,  jail, 
academy,  2  banks,  4  churches,  and  about  500  dwelling 
houses  ;  and  bcintr  near  the  head  of  navigation  and 
surrounded  by  a  fertile  country,  it  enjoys  an  extensive 
and  advantatreous  trade. 

The  first  object  of  immediate  interest  on  ascending 
the  Potomac,  is 

Mount  Vernon,  on  the  south  side  of  the  river,  39 
miles  from  the  mouth  of  Potomac  creek.  To  this  sa- 
cred spot  the  mind  of  every  American  recurs  with  the 
most  enthusiastic  devotion.  He  looks  upon  it  as  conse- 
crated ground.  Here  tlic  immortal  Washington,  after 
having  conducted  the  American  armies  forth  to  victory 
and  independence,  retired  to  enjoy  the  rich  reward  of 
his  services  in  the  warm  hearted  gratitude  of  his  coun- 
trymen, and  in  the  peacefid  seclusion  of  private  life. 

This  place,  till  within  a  few  years,  was  the  residence 
of  Judge  Washington,  the  nephew  of  the  General ; 
but  after  his  decease  in  1329,  the  estate  descended  to  a 
n^^phew  of  the  Judge,  John  Adams  Washington,  who 
died  in  1832  ;  since  which  the  estate  has  remained  in 
the  possession  of  the  widow  and  chih^  on  of  the  latter. 
The  road  to  it  is  almost  uninhabited  ,  and  difficult  to 
trace.  The  house  stands  on  an  eminence,  embracinff  a 
delightful  view  of  the  Potomac,  with  a  rich  and  beauti- 
ful lawn  extending  in  front  to  the  river. 

The  Tomb  of  Washington  is  visited  as  an  inter- 
esting object  of  contemplation.  The  Old  Tomh,  so  call- 
ed, in  which  the  remains  were  originally  interred,  is 
fast  going  to  decay  j  but  the  new  tomb,  more  remote 
from  the  river,  the  construction  of  which  was  commenc- 


ALEXANDRIA. 


1t» 


ed  by  the  General  previous  to  his  decease,  and  into 
vvliich  his  remains  were  removed  in  1S30,  is  of  Holid 
and  enduring  .materials.  Ilcrc  oliunbcr  in  peaceful  si- 
lence the  ashes  of  the  great  and  patriotic  Father  of  Lib^ 
crty.  No  monument  has  yet  been  erected  to  his  mem- 
ory ;  and  the  only  inscription  on  the  tomb  is  tho  follow- 


ing 


"  I  am  the  resurrection  and  the  life." 


H 


,   IS 

lote 
)nc>- 


Alexandria,  an  incorporated  city,  9  miles  farther, 
on  the  west  bank  of  the  river,  is  a  place  of  extensive 
business  and  "of  fashionable  resort  durinf^the  sittinjTs  of 
Congress.  It  contains  a  court  house,  G  churches  and 
a  theological  seminary. 

The  Museiim  at  this  place,  among  other  things,  con- 
tains an  elegant  satin  robe,  scarlet  on  one  side  and  white 
on  the  otlier,  in  which  Gen.  Vv^ashington  was  baptised ; 
(/  penknifcj  with  a  pearl  handle,  given  to  him  by  his 
mother  when  he  was  in  his  twelfth  year,  and  which  he 
kept  fifty-six  years ;  a  pearl  Indton^  from  the  coat  he 
wore  at  his  first  inauguration  as  President  of  the  Uni- 
ted States  in  the  old  City  Hall,  New- York  ;  a  black 
glovCf  worn  by  him  while  in  mourning  for  his  mother ; 
part  of  the  last  stick  of  sealing  wax  which  he  used  ;  the 
original  of  the  last  letter  lorittcn  by  hiin^  being  a  polite 
apology,  in  behalf  of  himself  and  Mrs.  Washington,  for 
declining  an  invitation  to  a  ball  at  Ahix^ndria  ;  it  is 
penned  with  singular  neatness,  accuracy  and  precision, 
and  contains  this  cxprcsBion — "  Alas !  our  dancing  days 
are  over ;"  a  beaulifnl  imaonic  apron,  with  the  belt  of 
scarlet  satin  and  the  wliite  kid  gloves  worn  by  him  the 
last  time  he  shared  in  the  social  ceremonies  of  the 
"  mystic  tic," 


40 


WASHINGTON    CITY. 


I      1 


The  country  between  this  city  and  the  capital  is  but 
thinly  inhabited,  and  the  soil  poor  and  unproductive  ; 
but  the  road  is  good,  and  a  ride  to  Alexandria  consti- 
tutes one  of  the  amusements  of  a  winter  at  Wash- 
ington. 


1! 


1 


WASHINGTON  CITY 
Is  6  miles  from  Alexandria.  As  the  seat  of  govern- 
ment of  the  Union,  it  is  a  place  of  much  resort  during 
the  session  of  congress  in  the  winter  ;  but  is  mostly  de- 
serted by  strangers  in  the  summer.  It  is  situated  on  the 
Maryland  side  of  the  Potomac,  and  on  a  point  of  land 
formed  by  the  junction  of  the  Eastern  Branch.  The 
District  of  Columbia,  in  which  the  city  is  located,  was 
ceded  to  the  United  States  by  Maryland  and  Virginia 
in  1790,  and  in  1800  it  became  the  seat  of  the  general 
government.  This  District  is  about  10  miles  square, 
lying  on  both  sides  of  the  Potomac,  and  is  under  the 
immediate  direction  of  congress. 

The  original  plan  of  Washington  when  completed, 
its  public  edifices,  and  the  elegance  of  its  situation,  will 
render  it  one  of  the  most  splcnded  cities  in  the  world. 

The  Capitol  stands  on  a  high  and  lofty  eminence, 
and  commands  a  delightful  prospect  of  the  Pennsylva- 
nia Avenue,  the  President's  House,  Georgetown  and 
the  Potomac,  the  General  Post-Oflice,  the  Navy  Yard, 
Greenlcaf's  Point,  the  bridge  on  the  river,  and  the  road 
to  Alexandria  and  Mount  Vernon.  The  capitol  is  built 
of  white  free  stone,  has  two  wings,  and  is  a  very  mag- 
nificent edifice. 

The  exterior  exhibits  a  rusticated  basement,  of  the 
height  of  the  first  story  ;  the  two  other  stories  are  com^ 


WASHINGTON    CITY. 


41 


ital  is  but 
oductive  ; 
ria  consti- 
it  Wash- 


r  govcrn- 
rt  durinfj 
lostJy  de- 
ed on  the 
t  of  land 
h.     The 
ted,  was 
Virginia 
general 
square, 
ider  the 

ipleted, 
3n,  will 

orld. 

nonce, 

sylva- 

n  and 

Yard, 

e  road 

s  built 


mag- 


Df  the 
com* 


prised  in  a  Corinthian  elevation  of  pilasters  and  col- 
umns— the  columns  30  feet  in  height,  form  a  noblo  ad- 
vancing portico  on  the  east,  IGO  feet  in  extent — the 
centre  of  which  is  crowned  with  a  pediment  of  80  feet 
span  :  a  receding  loggia  of  100  feet  extent,  distinguish- 
es the  centre  of  the  west  front. 

The  building  is  surrounded  by  a  balustrade  of  stone 
and  covered  with  a  lofty  domo  in  the  centre,  and  a  flat 
dome  on  each  wing. 

The  Chamber  of  the  House  of  RepresenLdivcs  is  in  the 
2d  story  of  the  south  wing,  and  is  semicircular,  in  the 
form  of  the  ancient  Grecian  theatre  ;  the  chord  of  the 
longest  dimension  is  96  feet,  and  the  height  to  the  high- 
est point  of  the  domical  ceiling  is  60  feet.     This  room 
is  surrounded  by  24  columns  of  variegated  native  mar- 
ble, or  breccia,  from  the  banks  of  the  Potomac,  with 
capitals  of  white  Italian  marble,  carved  after  a  speci- 
men of  the  Corinthian  order,  still  remaining  among  the 
ruins  of  Athens,  which  stand  on  a  base  of  free  stone, 
and  support  a  magnificent  dome  painted  in  a  very  rich 
and  splendid  style  to  represent  that  of  the  Pantheon  of 
Rome,  and  executed  by  an  interesting  young  Italian 
artist,  named  Bonani,  who  died  a  few  years  ago.     In 
the  centre  of  this  dome  is  erected,  to  admit  the  light 
from  above,  a  handsome  cupola,  from  which  is  suspend- 
ed a  massy  bronze  gilt  chandelier  of  immense  weight, 
which  reaches  within  ten  feet  of  the  floor  of  the  cham- 
ber.    The  speaker's  chair  is  elevated  and  canopied, 
and  on  a  level  with  the  loggia  or  promenade  for  the 
members,  consisting  of  columns  and  pilasters  of  mar- 
ble and  stone.    Above  this,  and  under  a  sweeping  arch 
near  the  dome,  is  placed  the  model  of  a  collossal  figure 


42 


WASHINGTON    CITY. 


\0 


i\  H 


of  Liberty y  and  on  the  entablature  beneath  is  sculptur- 
ed an  American  Eagle.  In  front  of  the  chair  and  im" 
mediately  over  the  entrance,  stands  a  beautiful  statue 
in  marble  representing  Ilislory,  recording  the  events  of 
the  nation.  Between  the  columns  is  suspended  fring- 
ed drapery  of  crimsoned  moreens,  festooned  near  the 
gallery  to  limit  the  sound  and  assist  the  hearing.  A 
magnificent  portrait  of  La  Fayette,  at  full  length,  paint- 
ed by  a  French  artist,  decorates  a  panel  on  one  side  the 
loggia. 

The  Senate  Chamber  in  the  north  wing  is  of  the  same 
semicircular  form,  75  feet  in  its  greatest  length  and  45 
high ;  a  screen  of  Ionic  columns,  with  capitals  after 
those  of  the  temple  of  Minerva  Polias,  support  a  galle- 
ry to  the  east  and  form  a  loggia  below,  and  a  new  gal- 
lery of  iron  pillars  and  railings  of  a  light  and  elegant 
structure  projects  from  the  circular  walls :  the  dome 
ceiling  is  enriched  with  square  caissons  of  stucco. 

The  walls  are  covered  with  straw  colored  drapery, 
between  small  pilasters  of  marble  in  the  wall.  Col- 
umns of  brecciaj  or  Potomac  marble,  support  the  east- 
ern gallery. 

The  Rotundo  comprehends  the  spacious  area  between 
the  two  wings  of  the  structure,  and  is  of  a  circular  form. 
It  is  entirely  of  marble,  (and  so  indeed  is  every  perma- 
nent part  of  the  capitol,)  excepting  the  light  doors  cov- 
ered with  green  baize  that  lead  out  of  it,  and  the  frame 
of  the  sky  light  above.  The  height  of  the  dome  soars 
beyond  the  roof,  and  it  may  well  be  imagined,  is  most 
imposing  and  sublime.  The  floor  is  beautifully  paved, 
and  the  sound  of  a  single  voice,  uttering  words  in  an 
ordinary  tone,  reverberates  aloft  like  thu  faint  rumbhn^ 


I 


J 


WASHINGTON   CITY. 


43 


;  sculptur- 
r  and  im" 
iful  statue 

events  of 
ied  fring- 

near  the 
aring.  A 
lib,  paint- 
ic  side  the 

'  the  same 
th  and  45 
itals  after 
rt  a  galle- 

new  gal- 
id  eleg-ant 
the  dome 
icco. 

I  drapery, 
ill.    Col- 

the  east- 

between 
dar  form, 
y  perma- 
oors  cov- 
hc  frame 
me  soars 
,  is  most 
y  paved, 
ds  in  an 
umblinij 


of  distant  thunder.  When  two  or  more  converae,  there 
is  an  incessant  roaring,  absorbing  the  entire  medium  of 
sound.  Even  the  simple  touch  of  a  walking  stick,  on 
the  pavement  distinctly  echoes  along  the  circumference, 
and  dies  away  slowly  in  the  capacious  vault ;  so  ex- 
tremely elastic  is  the  air  witliin.  There  is  nothing  that 
equals  it  in  this  country  ;  and,  of  itself,  it  well  deserves 
a  journey  to  Washington. 

In  the  niches  designedly  left  about  fifteen  feet  from 
the  floor,  are  four  sculptured  pieces  as  large  as  life,  do- 
signed  to  commemorate  the  aboriginal  character  and 
some  of  the  prominent  events  in  the  early  history  of 
the  country.  The  scene  of  the  first  device  is  laid  in 
1773,  and  is  designed  to  represent  a  fearful  contest  be- 
tween Daniel  Boon,  an  early  settler  in  one  of  the  west- 
ern states,  and  an  Indian  chief.  The  second  represents 
the  landing  of  the  Pilgrims  at  Plymouth  in  1610.  The 
third  is  a  representation  of  William  Penn  and  two  In- 
dian chiefs  in  a  treaty  in  1682,  under  the  memorable 
elm  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Delaware,  near  Philadel- 
phia. And  the  fourth  represents  the  narrow  escape  in 
1606  of  Capt.  John  Smith,  the  first  successful  adven- 
turer in  Virginia,  from  the  uplifted  war  club  of  King 
Powhatan.  The  figure  of  Pocahontas,  in  the  attitude 
of  supplicating  the  mercy  of  her  father  in  behalf  of  the 
intended  victim,  is  beautifully  wrought,  and  the  whole 
exhibits  much  elegance  of  design  and  workmanship. 
In  the  remaining  niches,  which  are  designed  to  be  filled 
with  paintings,  are  already  placed  the  following,  exe- 
cuted by  the  late  Col  Trumbull,  one  of  the  aids  of  Gen. 
Washington:  The  Declaration  of  Independence;  Sur- 
render of  Gen.  Burgoyne  ;  Surrender  of  Cornwallis  at 


44 


WASHINGTON    CITY. 


I  ■! 


H 


t  :. 


I        i 


i 


it 


fit 


Yorktown  ;  and  the  Resignation  of  Gen.  Washington 
at  Annapolis,  Dec.  23, 1 783.  The  figures  in  these  paint- 
ings are  full  length,  and  are  said  to  be  excellent  like- 
nesses. The  designs  and  execution  are  admirable,  and 
exhibit  the  great  and  almost  unrivalled  talent  of  the 
artist. 

The  Library. — Passing  from  the  Rotundo,  westerly, 
along  the  gallery  of  the  principal  stairs,  the  Library  room 
door  presents  itself.  This  room  is  92  feet  long,  34 
wide,  and  36  high.  It  is  divided  into  twelve  arched  al- 
coves, ornamented  with  fluted  pilasters,  copied  from 
the  pillars  in  the  celebrated  Octagon  Tower  at  Athens. 
At  the  entrance,  in  the  centre  of  the  room,  which  is  ap- 
proached from  the  great  central  Rotundo,  are  two  col- 
umns of  stone,  with  capitals  corresponding  with  those  of 
the  pilasters,  and  immediately  opposite  and  fronting  the 
window  which  leads  into  the  western  colonnade,  stand 
two  simlar  columns  of  stone.  These  pillars,  with  al- 
coves, support  two  galleries,  extending  nearly  the  whole 
length  of  the  room  on  both  sides,  and  divided  into  the 
same  number  of  shelved  recesses  as  the  lower  apart- 
ment. From  these  recesses  springs  the  arch  which 
forms  the  ceiling,  elegantly  ornamented  with  rich  stuc- 
co borders,  panels,  and  wreaths  of  flowers.  On  the 
roof,  which  is  about  ten  feet  above  the  ceiling,  are 
three  sky  lights,  the  walls  of  which  are  beautifully  dec- 
orated with  stucco  ornaments.  The  principal  apart- 
ments, as  well  as  the  committee  rooms  on  the  north 
attached  to  it,  are  handsomely  furnished  with  sofas, 
mahogany  tables,  desks,  Brussels  carpetting,  &c. 

This  extensive  collection  of  books  contains  at  pres- 
ent about  fourteen  thousand  volumes,  in  various  lan- 


WASHINGTON    CITT. 


45 


ishington 
33e  paint- 
lent  like- 
•able,  and 
nt  of  the 


westerly, 
"ary  room 
long,  34 
rched  al- 
lied from 
t  Athens, 
ich  is  ap- 
two  col- 
1  those  of 
nting  the 
3e,  stand 
with  al- 
le  whole 
into  the 
r  apart- 
which 
eh  stuc- 
On  the 
are 


mg, 


|illy  dec- 

apart- 

^e  north 

sofas, 

|c. 

it  prcs- 
lus  Ian- 


If 


rV3 


guages.  The  library  is  well  chosen.  The  classical 
department,  in  particular,  comprises  many  rare  books. 
Mr.  Jefferson's  arrangement  of  them  is  still  preserved, 
founded,  it  is  presumed,  on  Bacon's  classification  of 
science  ;  and  they  arc  divided  into  chapters,  according 
to  the  subjects  to  which  they  relate. 

Besides  the  principal  rooms  above  mentioned,  two 
others  deserve  notice,  from  the  peculiarity  of  their 
architecture — the  round  apartment  under  the  Rotun- 
do,  enclosing  40  columns  supporting  ground  arches, 
which  form  the  floor  of  the  Rotundo.  This  room  is 
similar  to  the  substructions  of  the  European  Cathe- 
drals, and  may  take  the  name  of  Crypt  from  them. 
The  other  room  is  used  by  the  Supreme  Court  of  the 
United  States,  and  is  of  the  same  style  of  architecture, 
with  a  bold  and  curious  arched  ceiling — the  columns 
of  these  rooms  are  of  massy  Dorick,  imitated  from 
the  temples  of  Postum.  Twenty-five  other  rooms,  of 
various  sizes,  are  appropriated  to  the  officers  of  the 
two  houses  of  congress  and  of  the  Supreme  Court, 
and  45  to  the  use  of  committees  ;  they  are  all  vault- 
ed and  floored  with  brick  and  stone.  Three  princi- 
pal stair  cases  are  spacious  and  varied  in  their  form  ; 
these,  with  the  vestibules  and  numerous  corridors  or 
passages,  it  would  be  difficult  to  describe  intelligibly. 
We  vv'ill  only  say,  that  they  are  in  conformity  to  th4 
dignity  of  the  building  and  style  of  the  parts  already 
named. 

The  East  Front  presents  three  marble  figures,  rep- 
resenting the  Genius  of  America,  Hope  and  Justice. 
They  are  executed  with  much  taste  and  judgment,  and 
present  an  imposing  appearance. 


4€ 


WASHINGTON    CITY. 


* 


'/.,'  '• 


i  I 


Fronting  the  captol,  towards  the  Pennsylvania  Ave- 
nue, and  within  an  oblong  marble  vase,  is  a  naval  mon- 
ument, originally  erected  at  the  navy  yard,  in  memory 
of  the  American  officers  who  fell  in  the  Tripolitan  war. 
It  is  a  simple  column,  wrought  in  Italy  at  the  expense 
of  the  survivors. 

The  PresidenVs  Hottse,  which  is  also  constructed  of 
white  free  stone,  two  stories  high,  with  four  spacious 
buildings  near  it  for  the  accommodation  of  the  heads  of 
department,  make  together  an  interesting  spectacle  for 
the  visitant. 

Perhaps  there  is  no  spot  in  the  United  States  that 
holds  out  more  inducements  to  a  traveller  than  this  city 
during  the  sessions  of  congress.  It  is  the  theatre  on 
which  the  pride  and  power  of  the  Ariierican  nation  are 
congregated  to  control  the  destinies  of  a  mighty  people. 
It  ia  the  residence  of  all  the  foreign  ministers,  and  em- 
braces a  large  portion  of  the  gay  and  fashionable  world. 
The  levees  at  the  house  of  the  president  are  fascinat- 
ing ;  and  the  apartments  on  these  occasions  are  open 
and  accessible  to  every  citizen  of  the  republic. 

Among  other  places  of  interest  at  and  near  Wash- 
ington, and  which  deserve  the  attention  of  visitants,  are 
the  Navy  Yard  ;  the  Columbian  College,  situate  on  a 
high  range  of  ground  north  of  the  city,  and  about  a 
mile  from  the  President's  House  ;  and  the  National 
Burying  Ground,  about  a  mile  south  east  of  the  capitol. 

The  ground  on  w^hich  Washington  is  built  is  high, 
airy  and  salubrious  ;  and  the  city,  from  the  extent  of  its 
territory,  presents  the  appearance  of  several  distinct 
villages.  It  is  however  rapidly  increasing  and  improv- 
ing, and  contained  in  1830  a  population  of  18,837. 


GEORGETOWN. 


47 


Its  principal  public  houses  are  the  National  Hotel, 
one  of  the  most  ejpiended  in  the  U.  S.  ;  the  Indian 
Gtueen  Hotel ;  and  the  Mansion  Hotel.  They  are  all 
located  on  the  Pennsylvania  Avenue. 


Georgetown  is  on  the  same  side  of  the  Potomac 
with  Washington,  at  the  distance  of  3  miles  west  of  the 
capitol.  It  is  very  pleasantly  situated,  and  is  a  place  of 
considerable  trade.  The  country  around  it  is  richly  di- 
versified, and  the  location  of  the  Catholic  Monastery 
is  very  delightful.  It  stands  on  the  borders  of  "  the 
heights,"  in  the  north  west  part  of  the  town,  and  over- 
looks the  body  of  the  town  below.  The  enclosure  em- 
braces about  one  acre.  On  the  north  side  is  the  acade- 
my conducted  by  the  nuns,  consisting  of  a  long  range 
of  buildings  three  stories  high.  In  the  middle  of  the 
front  or  eastern  side  stands  the  chapel.  On  the  left  of 
the  chapel  is  the  room  of  the  father  confessor,  and  al- 
so the  private  apartment  of  the  nuns,  into  which  no 
unhallowed  tread  of  the  worldly  and  profane  is  ever  ad- 
mitted. 

The  Academy,  or  High  School  for  Ladies,  is  the 
most  interesting  appendage  of  the  convent.  It  contains 
a  boarding  school  of  upwards  of  one  hundred  pupils, 
and  a  free  or  charity  school  of  a  much  larger  number  of 
day  scholars.  What  strikes  the  visitor  with  most  pleas- 
ure is  the  perfect  system  and  order  with  which  every 
thing  is  done.  The  young  misses  who  compose  the 
school  are  regularly  and  rigidly  trained  to  do  every 
thing  on  plan  and  method. 

The  seminary  is  divided  into  four  classes.    The  hall 
of  the  first  class  contains  an  extensive  cabinet  of  min- 
d2 


'f 


\i  m 


•I 


v; 


^  ■^' 


\ 


46 


CHESAPEAKE  AND  OHIO  CANAL. 


erals,  to  which  many  rare  and  valuable  specimens  have 
been  presented  by  the  officers  of  our  navy,  and  by  cath- 
olics of  the  eastern  world.  It  has  also  many  rich  spe- 
cimens of  art ;  the  contributions  of  wealthy  and  pow- 
erful patrons  of  the  church.  The  sword,  shoath  and 
belt  of  Iturbide,  onco  a  hero  of  South  America,  two 
of  whose  daughters  are  now  in  this  convent,  were  re- 
cently presented  to  the  cabinet  by  Commodore  Rogers. 
It  also  claims  to  have  many  sacred  relics,  such  as  shreds 
or  scraps  from  the  garments  of  numerous  saints — frag- 
ments from  the  church  and  tomb  of  St.  Peter,  and  of 
other  saints — pieces  of  the  wood  of  the  cross,  &c.  &c. 

The  number  of  nuns  in  tliis  convent,  at  present,  is 
about  sixty.  Among  them  are  descendants  of  rich  and 
powerful  families.  Their  employment  consists  in  con- 
fessions, vigils,  fasts,  penances,  reading  and  religious 
exercises,  in  teaching,  in  domestic  concerns,  and  in 
making  fine  needle-work  for  sale.  The  charity  school 
embraces  about  200  day  pupils.  For  their  humanity 
and  benevolence  in  collecting  and  teaching  these  chil- 
dren, the  nuns  deserve  praise.  In  these  employments 
they  appear  happy  ;  but  the  happiness  of  these  devo- 
tees, if  real,  must  bo  of  the  negative  kind. 

The  Chesapeake  and  Ohio  Canal  was  commenc- 
ed on  the  4th  of  July,  1828,  but  has  not  been  prosecut- 
ed with  the  vigor  originally  contemplated.  It  was  de- 
signed to  have  it  extend  from  Georgetown,  D.  C.  to 
near  Pittsburgh,  Penn.,  where  it  was  to  unite  with  the 
Pennsylvania  canal  and  the  Ohio  river  ;  its  length  360 
miles,  and  its  lockage  4004  feet. 


» 


I 


*r  ) 


KALTJMORB. 


49 


FROM  WASHINGTON  TO  BALTIMORE, 

38  milea. 

There  arc  two  lines  of  stages  running  daily  between 
Washington  and  Baltimore.  The  intermediate  distan- 
ces are  as  follows : 


Miles. 

Bladen  sburgh, 6 

Vansville, 8 

Patuxent  r.  w.  branch     3 
do.         e.  branch,     4 


Miles. 

Patapsco  river, 9 

Gwinn's  Falls, 5 

Baltimore, 3 


BALTIMORE.* 
The  rapid  growth  and  present  extent  and  population 
of  this  city  is  truly  remarkable,  and  to  be  ascribed  no 
less  to  the  spirit  of  enterprise  which  has  always  charac- 
terized its  inhabitants,  than  to  the  natural  advantages 
of  its  position.  Its  scite  is  on  the  north  side,  and  at 
the  head  of  tide  water  on  the  Patapsco  river,  14  miles 
above  its  entrance  into  the  Chesapeake.  The  centen- 
ary of  its  existence  was  celebrated  in  August,  1829. 
On  the  8th  of  that  month,  in  1 729,  the  first  act  was 
passed  for  laying  out  the  town  on  sixty  acres  of  land, 
from  which  the  native  forests  had  then  but  partially  giv- 
en place  to  the  axe  and  the  plough.  These  sixty  acres 
were  purchased  at  40  shillings  per  acre,  to  be  paid  in 
money,  or  tobacco  at  one  penny  per  pound.  The  pro- 
gress of  the  city  at  first  was  sluggisii  and  unpromising. 
Thirty- three  years  after  its  location,  (1752,)  it  contain- 
ed but  twenty-five  houses,  and  a  small  brig  and  sloop 
were  the  only  vessels  owned  in  the  town.    Even  up  to 

*  For  a  principal  part  of  the  following  description  of 
Baltimore,  the  Editor  is  indebted  to  John  S.  Skinner, 
Esq.  the  P.  Master  of  that  city. 


50 


BALTIMORE. 


'   i| 


1 773,  the  merchants  were  compelled  to  send  their  ad- 
vertisements to  Annapolis  or  Philadelphia,  there  being 
no  newspaper  then  published  in  Baltimore.  Now,  with 
its  population  rising  above  80,000,  it  may  be  consider- 
ed the  third  city  in  the  union  ;  whilst,  for  its  various 
manufactories  and  public  buildings,  ornamental  to  the 
city  and  remarkable  for  their  costliness,  taste  and  coni- 
modiousness,  it  stands  undoubtedly  in  the  first  rank  for 
enterprise  and  public  spirit.  For  tobacco  and  flour, 
Baltimore  is  the  leading  market ;  for  flour,  the  first  in 
the  world.  Within  20  miles  around,  the  water  power 
is  almost  incalculable.  It  drives  at  present  more  than 
sixty  flour  mills,  one  of  which  has  turned  out  32,000 
barrels  in  one  year.  There  are,  too,  within  that  com- 
pass, twelve  cotton  manufactories,  keeping  in  motion 
30,000  spindles,  besides  manufactories  of  cloth,  powder, 
paper,  iron,  glass,  steam  engines,  extensive  chemical 
works,  and  one  mill  by  steam  power  for  manufacturing 
flour  and  copper,  that  has  turned  off  200  barrels  a  day, 
and  works  annually  about  600,000  pounds  of  raw  cop- 
per. Many  of  these  may  conveniently  be  visited  by  so- 
journers in  the  city,  on  foot  or  by  short  rides  in  the  im- 
mediate vicinity. 

The  city,  as  re-chartered  in  1816,  contains  10,000 
acres,  and  embraces  within  the  limits  built  upon,  a 
court  house,  jail,  penitentiary,  lunatic  asylum,  two  the- 
atres, the  largest  circus  in  America,  an  exchange,  an 
observatory  founded  by  the  father  of  the  gallant  Com- 
modore Porter,  two  museums,  five  market  houses,  ten 
banks,  gas  works,  (the  first  in  this  country  for  lighting 
the  streets  and  houses,)  a  public  library,  a  medical  col- 
lege, and  45  houses  of  public  worship. 


i 

.'i 

i 


■^'■■s- 


iK 


BAl.TIMOHE. 


51 


their  ad- 
ere  being 
f ow,  with 
consider- 
9  varioua 
ital  to  the 
and  coni- 
t  rank  for 
ind  flour, 
he  first  in 
ter  power 
nore  than 
at  32,000 
hat  com- 
n  motion 
,  powder, 
chemical 
facturing 
Is  a  day, 
raw  cop- 
id  by  so- 
the  im- 

3  10,000 
upon,  a 
two  the- 
mge,  an 
it  Com- 
ises,  ten 
lighting 
ical  col- 


' 


Most  of  these  establishments  would  be  worthy  of  the 
regard  of  tourists,  it  caimot  bo  expected  that  we 
should  describe  them  minutely,  our  object  being  but 
briefly  to  indicate  Iheir  existence  ;  Imt  almost  all  stran- 
gers make  a  visit  to  the  cathedral,  the  exchange,  the 
public  fountains,  of  which  there  are  four  tastefully  or- 
namented and  giving  a  copious  supply  of  pure  spring 
water ;  the  museums,  the  monuments,  and  the  rail 
roads. 

The  Cathedral  is  built  after  the  Grecian  Ionic  or- 
der, on  a  plan  drawn  by  that  distinguished  and  lament- 
ed architect,  the  late  H.  B.  Latrobe.  Its  outward  length 
is  190  feet,  its  wi'^.th  177,  and  its  height  to  the  summit 
of  the  cross  that  surmounts  the  dome  is  127  feet.  A 
minute  description  of  th'  numerous  ornaments  and 
specimens  of  taste  in  the  iine  arts  that  abound  in  this 
magnificent  building,  would  be  incompatible  with  the 
plan  of  this  work  ;  but  we  may  advise  the  tourist  that, 
amongst  others,  it  contains  the  largest  organ  in  the 
United  States,  with  6000  pipes  and  36  stops,  and  two 
very  splendid  paintings— one  the  descent  ftom  the  cross, 
by  Paulin  Guerin,  a  present  from  Louis  XVI — anoth- 
er, presented  by  the  present  King  of  France,  represent- 
ing St.  Louis,  attended  by  liis  chaplain  and  armor-bear- 
er, burying  one  of  his  officers  slain  before  Tunis,  as  an 
encouragement  to  his  officers  and  soldiers,  who,  for  fear 
of  contagion,  would  have  left  their  comrades  to  be  de- 
voured by  beasts  and  birds  of  prey.* 

♦  It  was  in  this  Cathedral  that  the  funeral  honors 
were  paid  to  Charles  Carroll,  of  GarroUton,  the  last 
survivmg  signer  of  the  Declaration  of  Independence. 


"^ 


5% 


BALTIMORE. 


The  Merchants'  Exchange,  built  by  private  sub- 
scription, is  another  monument  to  the  pubHc  spirit  of 
the  citizens.  This  edifice,  from  Water  to  Second,  front- 
ing on  Gay-street,  is  255  by  a  depth  on  the  two  first  of 
141  feet,  and  is  three  siories  high  exclusive  of  the  base- 
ment. In  the  centre  is  the  greac  hall,  86  feet  by  53, 
lighted  from  the  dome,  which  is  90  feet  from  the  floor. 
In  this  hall,  to  which  they  have  access  by  three  entran- 
ces from  the  streets,  the  merchants  convene  daily  from 
1  to  2  o'clock. 

On  a  scale  correspinding  with  these  buildings  in  ex- 
tent and  convenienct-',  according  to  their  several  de- 
signs and  objects,  the  traveller  may  be  edified  and 
amused  by  an  inspection  of  the  other  public  edifices, 
which  here  we  could  only  designate  by  name.  But  in 
any  tiling  like  a  picture  of  Baltimore  as  a  guide  for  the 
tourist,  its  monuments  and  it  rail  roads,  leading  to  tho 
Ohio  and  the  Susquchannah,  are  decidedly  the  most 
striking  features.  The  one  called  tho  Battle  Monu- 
ment, an  elegant  marble  structure  about  55  feet  high, 
was  commenced  on  the  scite  of  the  old  court  house  in 
Washington  Square,  on  the  12th  of  September,  1815, 
in  memory  of  those  who,  on  the  12th  and  13th  of  the 
same  month  in  the  preceding  year,  had  fallen  gallantly 
in  defence  of  the  city. 

Another  splendid  monument  called  the  Washington 
Monument,  built  of  white  marble,  ornamental  to  the 
city  and  honorable  to   its   inhabitants,   (but  vain   as 


He  died  in  the  city  on  the  13th  Nov.  1S32,  and  his  re- 
mains were  conveyed  for  interment  to  the  vault  on  the 
premises  of  the  family  mansion,  about  16  miles  distant. 


Va ' 


BALTIMORE. 


53 


an  eflort  to  ei^tend  the  fame  of 


m  whose 
empire  of  letters 


ory  IS  as 


GTON 

io  the 
in   as 


wide  and  imperishable  as  tl 
been  erected  on  an  elevation  a  little  north  of  the  com- 
pact part  of  the  city,  presented  for  that  purpose  by  the 
late  Col.  John  E.  Howard,  the  hero  of  Eutaw  and  of 
the  Cowpens.  The  base  is  50  feet  square  and  23  high, 
on  which  is  placed  another  square  of  about  half  the  ex- 
tent and  elevation.  On  this,  is  a  column  20  feet  in  di- 
ameter at  the  base,  and  14  at  the  top.  The  colossal 
statue  of  Washington,  the  largest  one  in  modern  ages, 
is  placed  on  the  summit  163  feet  from  the  ground.  Tliis 
monument  is  to  be  embellished  with  bas  reliefs  and  oth- 
er decorations. 

The  Baltimore  and  Ohio  Rail  Road  commences 
a  short  distance  from  the  Washington  turnpike  road  on 
West  Pratt  street,  where  the  company  have  establish- 
ed a  depot.  Under  the  authority  given  by  the  City 
Council,  a  line  of  railway  has  also  been  laid  from  the 
termination  of  the  main  stem  of  the  road,  at  the  Depot, 
down  Pratt  street  to  the  Basi:i,  whence  it  is  construct- 
ed to  the  City  Block,  and  runs  parallel  with  the  entire 
water  front  of  the  city,  conmnunicating  with  all  the 
wharves,  and  intersecting  all  the  principal  streets  which 
extend  northwesterly  and  southerly,  as  far  down  as  the 
public  property  south  of  Jones'  Falls,  at  which  place 
there  have  been  conveyed  to  the  company,  by  the  Cor- 
poration of  Baltimore,  two  squares  of  the  ground,  fa- 
vorably situated  for  the  convenient  and  economical 
transaction  of  an  extensive  commerce.  An  uninter- 
rupted communication  is  thus  opened  along  the  whole 
extent  of  the  Road,  between  the  Port  of  Baltimore  and 
the  Potomac  river  at  the  Point  of  Rocks,  a  distance  of 


;)4 


liALTIMOUE. 


1^ 


I     <( 


67 i  miles  ;   fioiii  whence  a  lateral  loail  2  or  3  miles 
long,  is  completed  to  the  city  ol"  Frederick. 

It  was  originally  designed  to  liave  extended  this  road 
to  the  Oliio  river  at  Pittshurgh,  300  miles  from  Balti- 
more ;  but  it  must  for  the  present  terminate  at  the 
Point  of  Rocks,  a  narrow  pass,  principally  occupied  by 
the  Chesapeake  and  Ohio  canul — a  legal  decision  fa- 
voring the  right  of  the  canal  company  to  an  exclusive 
occupancy  thereof  having  been  made. 

A  double  track  has  been  laid  most  of  tho  way,  and 
the  travelling  and  transportation  have  thus  far  fully 
equalled  the  anticij)ations  of  the  stockholders.  Loco- 
motive power  has  been  found  to  be  the  most  economi- 
cal, and  will  probably  be  used  for  most  of  tho  business 
of  the  road,, 

A  ride  as  iar  at  least  as  Ellicott*s  mills,  13  miles  from 
Baltimore,  is  considered  almost  a  matter  of  course  by 
strangers  visiting  the  city.  The  scenery  on  the  route, 
being  mostly  in  the  vicinity  of  the  Patapsco  river,  is 
picturesque  and  interesting.  Among  the  works  con- 
nected with  the  road,  the  Cmrollton  Viaducty  over 
Gwynn's  Falls,  about  a  mile  and  a  half  from  the  ci- 
ty, is  one  of  the  most  magnificent  pieces  of  architect- 
ure in  America — alike  beautiful  in  proportion,  materials 
and  workmanship.  This  bridge  is  built  of  a  beautiful 
granite,  contains  one  arch  of  about  80  feet  span,  and 
40  feet  in  height,  and  is  312  leet  in  length  from  end  to 
end  of  the  parapets. 

The  Jackson  Bndge^  is  a  single  arch  109  feet  long, 
of  ontirely  novel  structure,  the  invention  of  Col.  Lon^, 
of  tho  company's  board  of  engineers.  Tho  Deep  Cuif 
through  a  high  and  broad  ridge  of  land,  is  about  tluee 


• 


BALTIMORE. 


55 


i  miles 

lis  road 
I  Balti- 
at  the 
pied  by 
jion  t'a- 
cclusive 

ay,  and 
ar  fully 
Loco- 
conomi- 
)usiness 

les  from 

mrse  by 

e  route, 

fiver,  is 

\ka  con- 

t,  over 

the  ci- 

[chitect- 

laterials 

leautiful 

in,  and 

end  to 

H  long, 
Long, 

k  tlueu 


fourths  of  a  mile  in  length,  its  greatest  depth  70  feet, 
and  its  width,  at  the  summit  of  the  ridge^  184  feet. 
Cluantities  of  carbonized  wood  were  found  sixty  feet 
below  the  natural  surface,  and  a  stump  of  a  tree  with 
its  roots  at  forty  feet.  The  entire  excavation  is  263,- 
848  cubic  yards.  The  Great  Ernhankment  at  Gadsby^s 
Rurif  five  miles  from  Baltimore,  is  nearly  a  mile  in 
length,  its  greatest  elevation  56  feet,  and  its  greatest 
width  191  feet.  At  the  top,  the  usual  width  of  26  feet 
is  preserved  for  a  double  set  of  rails.  Gadsby^s  Run 
Viaduct^  affords  a  passage  to  the  waters  of  the  run 
through  the  embankment.  The  arch,  composed  of 
dressed  granite  blocks,  is  of  the  extraordinary  width  of 
120  feet  from  opening  to  opening.  The  Patterson  Via- 
ductj  is  an  immense  structure  of  granite,  by  which  the 
road  is  carried  to  the  opposite  bank  of  the  Patapsco.  It 
is  built  of  granite  blocks,  from  one  to  seven  tons  in 
weight,  and  its  entire  length  is  375  feet.  It  has  four 
beautiful  arches,  the  two  centre  ones  each  a  span  of  55 
feet,  with  extensive  wings  and  water  walls,  abutments, 
&c.  The  height  from  the  water  to  the  crown  of  the 
arches  is  30  feet.  The  corner  stone  of  this  structure 
was  laid  on  the  6th  May,  1829,  and  on  the  4th  of  De- 
cember it  was  crossed  on  horseback  by  William  Pat- 
terson, esq.  for  whom  the  honor  had  been  reserved,  and 
whose  name  it  bears.  It  embraces  nearly  10,000 
perches  of  masonry.  Besides  these  are  the  embank- 
ments at  Stillhouse  Run,  two  granite  viaducts,  the 
rock-side  cutting  at  Buzzard's  Rock,  &c. 

The  Baltimore  and  Susq,uehannah  Rail  Road, 
extending  from  Baltimore  to  York  Haven,  on  the  Sus- 
quehannah  river,  a  distance  of  60  miles,  i?  completed  aa 


DAI.TIMOKE. 

far  as  Chambereburgh,  Penn.,  and  will  probably  be  fin- 
ished in  the  course  of  the  proaent  season,  (1833.) 

For  ks  houses  for  the  accommodation  of  travellers, 
Baltimore  is  not  remarkable,  except  for  its  City  Hotel. 
This  is  the  most  splendid  edifice  of  its  kind  in  the  un- 
ion, if  not  in  the  world.  It  is  centrally  and  mo=t  con- 
veniently situated,  presenting  a  front  on  Calver*  areet 
of  117  feet,  running  back  183 — taking  in  two  spacious 
buildings  formerly  occupied  as  private  residences,  so 
connected  with  the  establishment  as  to  afford  two  dis- 
tinct private  entrances  on  Fayette  street,  which  lead  to 
thirteen  parlors  arranged  expressly  for  the  accommoda- 
tion of  private  families,  with  chambers  so  connected 
with  them  as  to  make  them  as  convenient  for  ladies  and 
children  as  any  private  house.  The  City  Hotel  con- 
tains 172  apartments,  and  was  built  expressly  for  ^  ho 
tel,  under  the  direction  of  its  experienced  proprietor, 
Mr.  Barnum,  In  the  basement  of  the  building  on  Cal- 
vert street  is  situated  the  Post-Office,  into  wliich  the 
traveller  may  deposit  his  letters  by  a  conduit  from  the 
large  Reading  Room  above,  where  he  can  peruse, 
gratuitously,  the  papers  from  all  parts  of  the  union. 
There  are  also  in  the  basem^it  the  offices  of  the  Amer- 
ican Turf  Register  and  of  the  American  Farmer,  as  also 
the  General  Stage  Office  of  Stockton  &  Stokes.  All 
the  mail  coaches  start  from  this  hotel.  To  all  other  con- 
veniences combined  in  this  establishment  which  travel- 
lers can  desire,  is  added  an  observatory  on  the  top  of  it, 
constructed  expressly  to  afford  to  its  guests  views  of  the 
harbor  and  Fort  M'Henry,  and  tlic  town,  and  the  coun- 
try scats  that  surround  it. 


1 


ill 


UALTIMOIIE. 


57 


)ly  be  fin- 
53.) 

travellers, 
Y  Hotel. 
in  the  un- 
mo°t,  con- 
ver*  dreet 
0  spacious 
ilcnccs,  so 
d  two  dis- 
ich  lead  to 
conimoda- 
connectcd 
ladies  and 
Elotel  con- 
y  for  ^  Iv: 
proprietor, 
ng  on  Cul- 
wiiich  the 
t  from  the 
in  peruso, 
he  union, 
the  Amer- 
ler,  as  also 
okes.     All 
other  con- 
ich  travcl- 
e  top  of  it, 
ews  of  the 
the  coun- 


N 


Tiie  Indian  CIueen,  the  next  largest  establishment, 
IB  well  and  liberally  kej)t  by  Mr.  Beltzhover,  its  oblig- 
ing and  pop«dar  tenant. 

And  here  wo  may  close  this  sketch  of  that  patriotic 
city  by  the  remark,  that  it  is  in  nothing  more  distin- 
guished from  onr  othcn*  largf  cities,  than  by  the  beauty 
of  its  environs.  A  succession  of  ehvatod  seiles  rising 
one  above  another  encircle  it  from  the  Philadelphia 
road  on  the  cast  to  the  Washington  turnpike  on  the 
west.  From  these  em'mencos  the  stranger  obtains,  at  a 
single  coup  (Voeil,  a  view  of  thn  town  and  its  numerous 
fipproaches  by  land  and  water,  its  monuments,  its 
domes,  its  f^tceples  and  its  towers. 

Some  of  these  heights  arc  crowned  with  private  resi- 
dences, displaying  all  the  taste  and  magnificence  that 
characterize  the  scats  of  European  opulence  and  re- 
finement. Of  these,  the  most  expensively  embellished 
and  conspicuous  is  "  Green  Mount,"  the  elegant  sum- 
mer retreat  of  a  gentleman  whose  taste  and  hospitality 
happily  correspond  with  his  ample  possessions.  To 
the  splendid  mansion,  with  all  its  incidental  accommo- 
dations, on  the  most  extensive  and  liberal  scale,  is  con- 
nected a  circular  promenade  of  three  quarters  of  a  mile 
in  length,  oversliadowed  by  trees  from  every  clime, 
tempting  to  healthfid  exercise,  and  offering  on  either 
hand  every  variety  of  fruit  and  flower  that  cultivated 
nature  has  prepared  to  delight  the  eye  and  gratify  the 
palate.  Wliilst  for  the  benevolent  prop;  ietor  a  sentiment 
of  universal  and  profound  respect  consecrates  his  100 
acres  thnt  border  on  this  line  of  the  city,  guarding  them 
from  the  hand  of  depredation,  strangers  entitled  to  con- 
sideration visit  Green  Mount  without  difficulty,  and  ad- 
mire it  without  measure. 


U 


58 


FROM   BALTIMORE  TO  nilLADELPIIIA. 


ff( 


I* 


i;:  ii 


FROM  BALTIMORE  TO  PHILADELPHIA. 

A  daily  land  or  water  route  can  be  taken  ;  but  since 
the  completion  of  the  Frenchtown  and  New-Castle 
Rail  Road,  the  latter  is  generally  preferred.  Both 
routes,  however,  are  given,  with  the  intermediate  dis- 
tances : 

Stage  Route — 101  rniles. 


Miles. 
From  Baltimore  to 

Herring's  Run,  ...  4 

Bird's  Run, 8 

Great  Gunpowder 

falls, 3 

Little  do 2 

Winter's  Run, 4 

Hartford, 4 

Havre  de  Grace, ....  11 

Susquehannah  river,,  1 

Charleston, 5 

North  East  river, ....  2 


Miles, 

Elkton, 8 

Big  Elk  Creek,  ....  1 

Delaware  state  line,  2 

Christiana  Creek,  . .  3 

Christiana, 5 

Newport, 5 

Wilmington,* 4 

Brandy  wine  Creek,.  1 

Chester, 13 

Darby, 8 

Schuylkill  river,. ...  6 

Philadelphia, 1 


*  Wilmington,  a  port  of  entry,  and  the  largest  town 
in  the  state  of  Delaware,  is  the  only  place  of  much  im- 
portance on  this  route.  The  town  is  situated  between 
Christiana  and  Brandywine  creeks,  1  mile  above  their 
confluence,  and  2  miles  west  of  the  Delaware  river. 
The  great  facilities  afforded  here  make  it  an  important 
manufacturing  town  ;  it  having  some  of  the  finest  flour- 
ing mills  and  cotton  factories  in  the  union.  It  con- 
tains from  10  to  12,000  inhabitants,  a  spacious  alms- 
house, 3  banks,  a  U.  S.  arsenal,  and  9  churches.  An 
ancient  building,  called  the  old  Swedish  church,  erect- 
ed in  1698,  stands  near  the  Christiana  creek  in  this 
town ;  opposite  to  which  is  an  ancient  church-yard, 
used  by  the  first  settlers  of  the  place.  It  contains  a 
few  tomb-stones,  the  inscriptions  of  which  are  nearly 
defaced  by  the  hand  of  time. 


fc: 


FROM   BAI.TIMOUE  TO  riilLADELPHIA. 


59 


>HIA. 

)U.t  since 
v-Castle 
I.  Both 
iate  (lis- 


Miles, 
..  8 
1 
2 
3 
5 
5 
4 
1 
13 
8 
6 
1 


Steam  Boat  and  Rail  Road  Route — l\ij^  miles. 


•  •  • 

ne, 

»  •  • 

•  •  • 

•  •  • 

•  *  • 
k,. 


st  town 
Lich  im- 
etween 
re  their 

river, 
portant 
it  flour- 
It  con- 

alms- 
|8.    An 

erect- 
in  this 

yard, 
tains  a 
nearly 


J\IUes. 
By  steam  boat. 
From  Baltimore  to 

FortM'Henry,....  3 

Sparrow's  Point, ....  6 

NorthPoint, 4 

IVlillcr's  Island, 8 

Pool's  Island, 8 

GrovePoint, 16 

Turkey  Point, 6 

French  Town, 13 


Miles. 
By  rail  road. 
From  French  Town, 
Md.  to  New  Cas- 

tJe,  Del 16i 

By  steam  boat. 
Christiana  Creek,  Del.     5 
Marcus  Hook,  Fenn.     8 

Chester, 4 

Lazaretto, 6 

Fort  Mifflin, 5 


Philadelphia, 8 

This  route  is  usually  performed  in  from  9  to  10  hours. 

North  Point,  13  miles  from  Baltimore,  is  the  spot 
where  the  British  troops  landed  in  Sept,  1814,  and 
where  a  buttle  was  fought,  simultaneous  with  a  naval 
attack  on  Fort  M'Henry.  The  engagement  resulted  in 
the  defeat  of  the  British,  and  the  death  of  their  com- 
mander. Gen.  Ross. 

From  this  point  until  reaching  Turkey  Point,  at  the 
mouth  of  Elk  river,  the  Chesapeake  presents  a  broad 
expanse  and  beautiful  sheet  of  water,  interspersed  with 
an  occasional  island  ;  of  which  Pool's  is  the  largest 
and  the  most  picturesque.  On  approaching  the  mouth 
of  the  Elk  river,  the  broad  entrance  of  the  Susquehan- 
nah  is  seen  at  the  left ;  near  which  is  discerned  the 
village  of  Havre  de  Grace,  which  was  burnt  during  th# 
last  war.  Eight  miles  from  Turkey  Point,  up  the  Elk 
river,  the  entrance  of  Back  Creek,  connected  with  the 
Chesapeake  and  Delaware  canal,  is  seen  at  the  right.* 

+  Until  the  construction  of  the  French  Town  and 
New-Castle  rail  road,  the  route  of  travellers  was  gene- 

e2 


i 


60 


FROM  LIALTIMOUR  TO  PIIlLADEI.PniA. 


n  i 


.1" 


At  French  Town,  passengers  leave  the  steam  boat, 
(their  baggage  having  been  previously  placed  in  bag- 
gage waggons,)  and  take  the  carriages  of  the  Rail 
Road,  which  extends  to  New  Castlq,  on  the  Delaware, 
a  distance  of  Ifi^  miles,  being  but  S53  yards  more  than 
would  be  a  perfectly  straight  line  drawn  from  one  end 
f.o  the  other.  It  is  composed  of  six  curves  and  six 
straight  lines,  three  of  the  curves  deflecting  to  the  north 
and  three  to  the  south.  In.  whole  amount  of  excava- 
tion is  about  500,000  cubic  yards  of  earth,  exclusive  of 


rally  through  this  canal,  in  packets  fitted  up  for  the  pur- 
pose. It  is  now,  however,  used  principally  for  sloops 
plying  between  the  Chesapeake  Bay  and  Delaware  riv- 
er. Back  Creek,  a  narrow  and  tortious  stream,  is  pur- 
sued for  3  miles  to  a  village  called  Chesapeake  city, 
where  the  canal  commences,  which  is  14  miles  long,  36 
feet  wide  at  the  bottom,  and  60  feet  at  the  surface.  It 
is  calculated  for  the  passage  of  vessels  drawing  8  feet 
of  water,  though  the  banks  are  constructed  so  as  to  re- 
tain 10  feet,  if  necessary.  There  are  two  tide  and  two 
lift  locks,  and  the  summit  level  is  a  littlt;  more  than  9 
miles  long,  and  10  feet  above  ordinary  flood  tide.  Be- 
tween 2  and  3  miles  from  Chesapeake  village  com- 
mences what  is  called  the  Deep  Cut.  Its  length  is 
nearly  four  miles,  and  the  embankments  vary  from  8 
to  70  feet  in  height.  To  furnish  something  of  an  idea 
of  the  magnitude  of  the  work,  it  is  stated  that  the  earth 
excavated  to  form  this  part  of  the  canal  and  the  neces- 
sary drains  was  more  than  90  millions  of  cubic  feet. 
At  the  greatest  elevation  a  most  imposing  work,  called 
Summit  Bridge,  has  been  extended  across.  It  is  built 
on  a  hard  firm  bank,  where  the  original  surface  attains 
an  elevation  of  65  feet,  above  which  the  abutments  are 
built  20  feet  in  thickness.  The  sides  of  the  canal  be- 
low the  abutments  are  protected  by  a  slope  wall  laid 


'm 


m  boat, 
ill  bag- 
le  Rail 
^lawarc, 
:)rc  than 
one  end 
and  six 
ic  north 
cxcava- 
lusive  of 


tho  pur- 
ir  sloops 
i^arc  riv- 
,  is  pur- 
ike  city, 
long,  36 
face.    It 
lo-  8  feet 
as  to  re- 
and  two 
3  than  9 
le.     Be- 
^e  coni- 
•ngth  is 
from  8 
an  idea 
ic  earth 
neces- 
)ic  feet. 
,  called 
is  built 
attains 
2nts  are 
mal  be- 
all  laid 


FROM  BALTIMORE  TO  PlIILADELPITIA. 


61 


the  side  drains,  which  are  on  a  magnificent  scale.  Tho 
amount  of  embankment  is  about  420,000  cubic  yards. 
At  two  points  the  excavation  has  been  attended  with 
great  difficulty  and  expense,  especially  at  the  western 
termination  of  the  road,  where  tlio  cutting  was  37  feet 
deep,  through  a  sohd  mass  of  tough  red  and  hiack  clay 
for  a  considerable  distance. 

There  are  six  principal  embankment?,  vsnying  in 
lengtli  from  twelve  iiundred  to  three  thouGand  feet  each, 
and  in  height  from  fifteen  to  twrnty-fivc  feet  each. 


from  the  bottom  of  the  canal  to  the  top  of  the  bank, 
from  six  to  two  feet  in  thickness.  I'he  tlcor  of  the 
bridge  is  90  feet  above  the  bottom  of  the  canal  ;  ex- 
treme length  280  feet.  Independently  oi  the  interest 
excited  by  the  bridge,  the  view  of  the  canal  fi-om  its 
commanding  height  is  grand  beyond  description.  A 
flight  of  steps  have  been  erected,  to  facilitate  the  as- 
cent from  the  tow-path  up  the  bank. 

After  leaving  the  Deep  Cut,  the  canal  enters  what 
is  called  The  Old  Mill  Pond,  three  miles  bevond  the 
Cranberry  Marshes.  Three  miles  farther  are  the  St. 
George's  ^^Iarshes,  the  forming  of  the  banks  ot  the  ca- 
nal through  which  was  an  immense  labor.  TJie  spe- 
cilic  gravity  of  the  earth  used  for  the  purpose  exceed- 
ing tiiat  of  the  surrounding  marshes,  it  sunk  in  many 
places  as  fast  as  it  could  be  carted  on,  and  in  some  in- 
stances it  is  calculated  to  have  gone  to  a  depth  of  from 
GO  to  80  feet,  and  in  one  place  100  feet  below  the  orig- 
inal surface,  raising  many  acres  of  the  adjacent  marshes 
several  feet  above  their  original  level. 

At  the  eastern  "^ermination  of  the  canal,  the  City  of 
Delaware  has  sprung  up  like  many  of  the  flourishing 
villages  on  the  banks  of  the  Erie  canal  in  New- York, 
and  will  probably  become  a  place  of  considerable  im- 
portance. 


t 


FRUM  BALTIMUHE  TO  PHILADELPHIA. 


road 


crosses 
iinensions  from 


four  bridges  or  viaducts,  varying  in 
12  fcc't  l)>jlO,  to  5  feet  by  G  ;  and  29 
culverts,  varying  from  12  by  4,  to  2  feet  by  2.  The 
whole  of  tlie  bridges  and  culverts  are  of  substantial 
stone  masonry.  The  width  of  the  road  bed  is  26  feet 
exclusive  of  the  side  drains.  It  is  fenced  on  both  sides 
its  whole  length,  the  fences  enclosing  an  area  of  never 
less  than  70  feet  in  width,  and  at  the  western  deep  cut 
of  170  feet.  The  superstructure  of  the  road  is  formed 
parti}-  of  stone  blocks  containing  two  cubic  feet  of  stone, 
each  weighing  about  3G0  lbs.  and  partly  of  substantial 
white  oak  sleej)ers,  upon  which  arc  laid  and  secured 
in  the  most  approved  manner,  the  string  pieces  or  rails, 
of  Georgia  pitch  pine,  G  inches  square  ;  on  the  top  of 
these  are  fastened  the  iron  bars  2^  inches  wide  by  |ihs 
of  an  inch  thick,  with  iron  plates  beneath  them  at  the 
points  of  their  junction.  The  inner  edge  of  the  string 
piece  is  chamfered  off  so  as  to  bring  the  bearing  of  the 
iron  bar  nearly  in  the  centre.  • 

The  blocks  are  laid  three  feet  apart  Jrom  centre  to 
centre^  and  bedded  in  holes  two  feet  deep  and  two  feet 
square,  upon  pure  sand  or  gravel  well  rammed  ;  and 
where  sleepers  are  used,  on  the  embankments,  &c.  they 
are  laid  at  the  same  distance  apart,  on  sills  of  hemlock, 
four  inches  thick  by  eight  inches  wide,  placed  longitudi- 
nally, which  are,  in  like  manner,  bedded  in  trenches  fill- 
ed with  sand  or  gravel  well  rammed — these  substances 
being  supposed  to  furnish  the  surest  safeguard  against 
injury  from  frost. 

The  total  cost  of  the  New  Castle  and  French  Town 
rail  road,  including  the  land  for  its  location,  wharves, 
land   at   depots   and  both  ends,  locomotive  engines, 


1 
t 
I 
I 


m  ■ 


II 


PHILADELPHIA. 


^Ji 


re  to 
feet 
and 
they 
ock, 
udi- 

fill- 
nces 

inst 

lown 

fves, 
Jnes, 


passenger  and  burthen  cars  sufTicient  to  put  it  in  com- 
plete operation,  with  a  single  track  and  the  requisite 
number  of  turn  outs,  has  been  '^itimated  at  about  fmir 
hundred  thousand  dollars. 

The  road  was  commenced  in  July,  1830,  and  was 
completed  in  1832. 

The  ancient  town  of  New  Castle,  at  which  the  road 
terminates,  still  retains  one  of  its  original  buildings,  the 
date  of  which,  in  figures  of  iron  on  the  gable  end,  shows 
that  it  was  erected  in  1687.  The  town  was  settled  by  the 
Swedes,  many  of  whose  descendants  still  continue  to 
reside  there,  and  retain  the  plain  frank  manner  and 
thinking  habits  of  their  ancestors.  By  means  of  a  loco- 
motive engine,  passengers  are  enabled  to  cross  the  pe- 
ninsula in  one  hour  with  ease,  thereby  shortening  the 
time  between  Baltimore  and  Philadelphia  2^  hours. 

At  New-Castle,  a  steam  boat  is  again  taken,  which 
proceeds  up  the  Delaware  35  miles,  passing  the  city  of 
Wilmington,  which  is  seen  at  a  distance  on  the  left, 
and  the  villages  of  Chester,  Lazaretto,  Fort  Mifflin  on 
an  island  in  the  Delaware,  and  Gloucester,  to 

PHILADELPHIA, 

The  flourishing  capital  of  Pennsylvania.  It  stands 
on  the  west  bank  of  the  river  Delaware,  five  miles  from 
its  confluence  with  the  Schuylkill,  which  forms  its  wes- 
tern boundary.  This  city  was  founded  in  1682,  and 
incorporated  in  1701.  The  charter  being  abrogated  at 
the  revolution,  it  remained  under  a  provincial  govern- 
ment till  1789,  when  it  was  incorporated  a  second  time. 
Its  population  in  1830,  including  its  suburbs,  was  167,- 
811.    The  city  is  built  on  streets  from  50  to  100  feet  in 


r 


id-: 


9i 


PIIII.ADELPHIA. 


fc    rl     f 


U 


h 


width,  runnin.fT  parallel  and  at  riirht  anjilea  to  each  oth- 
er.  They  arc  ImndHomoly  paved,  and  are  kept  rernark- 
aMy  clean.    Th*^  houses  exhihlt  an  appearance  of  neat- 
n^S'i,  uniforniily  and  comniodiouaness,  and   many  of 
them  are  ornnmentf'd  with  white  marhle.     Againat  the 
city,  which  is  00  njiles  distant  from  the  sea,  the  Dela- 
ware is  ahout  a  mile  wnde,  and  is  naviual)le  for  ships  of 
a  lar«^e  size.     The  most  conspicuous  huildingfs  are  the 
churches,  the  state  house,  the  United  States  and  Penn- 
eylvania  Banks,  the  Girard  Bank,  and  the  Institution 
for  the  Deaf  and  Dumh.     The  Bank  of  the  U.  S.  was 
established  in  the  year  1816,  with  a  capital  of  v<i35,000,- 
000.     The  banking  house  is  a  splendid  structure,  built 
on  the  plan  of  the  Parthenon  at  Atliens,  and  is  situated 
in  a  north  and  south  direction,  fronting  on  Chestnut 
and  Library  streets,  having  8  fluted  columns,  4  feet  6 
inches  in  diameter,  embracing  the  whole  front.     From 
each  of  the  fronts  are  porticoes,  projecting  10  feet  6  in- 
ches.    The  whole  length  of  the  edifice,  including  the 
portico,  is  161  feet,  and  its  breadth  in  front  87  feet. 
The  main  entrance  is  from  Chestnut  street,  by  a  flight 
of  six  marble  steps,  extending  along  the  whole  front  of 
the  portico.     The  banking  room  occupies  the  centre  of 
the  building,  being  48  feet  wdde  and  81  feet  long.    The 
whole  body  of  the  building  is  arched  in  a  bomb  proof 
manner,  from  the  cellar  to  the  roof,  which  is  covered 
with  copper. 

There  are  in  this  city  90  houses  for  public  worship  ; 
13  banks,  7  insurance  companies,  a  custom  house,  an 
exchange,  and  a  chamb«='r  of  commerce. 

The  New  Bank  of  Pennsylvania  is  an  extensive 
and  elegant  edifice  of  marble,  of  the  Ionic  order,  and 


PHlLADELl'iriA. 


es 


h  oth- 
rnark- 
f  no  ttt- 
Rny  of 
nat  the 

3  Dela- 
ibipa  of 
are  the 

Penn- 
titution 
S.  was 
15,000,- 
0,  built 
(ituated 
lipstnut 

4  f(;ct  6 
From 

ot  6  in- 
ing  the 
B7  feet, 
a  flight 
ront  of 
?ntre  of 
The 
}  proof 
overed 

orship  ; 
use,  an 

tensive 
er,  and 


I 


constructed  after  the  inudcl  of  the  ancient  temple  of  the 
muses,  on  the  Ilyssus. 

Tlio  Pennsyl  ania  EIospital  is  one  of  tho  oldest 
and  most  respectable  institutions  of  that  descriplion  in 
the  Union. 

The  State  IIousk,  in  which  the  continental  congress 
sat,  and  from  whence  the  Dtdaralion  of  Independence 
issued,  is  still  standinjr.  It  is  located  in  Chestnut  street, 
is  built  of  brick,  comprisinfj  a  centre  and  two  wings,  and 
has  undergone  no  material  alteration  since  its  first  erec- 
tion. It  has  a  venerable  appearance,  and  is  surmount- 
ed by  a  cupola,  having  a  clock,  the  dial  of  which  is 
glass,  and  is  illuminated  at  night  until  10  or  11  o'clock, 
shewing  the  hour  and  minutes  until  that  time.  Tho 
front  is  a  considerable  distance  back  from  the  street, 
the  walk  being  paved  to  the  curb-stone  with  brick,  and 
two  elegant  rows  of  trees  extending  its  whole  length. 
East  of  the  main  entrance,  in  the  front  room,  the  ses- 
sions of  congress  were  held,  and  the  question  of  inde- 
pendence decided.  The  declaration  was  first  publicly 
read  from  the  balcony  fronting  the  spacious  park  in  tlio 
rear. 

The  Arcade  in  Philadelphia,  like  that  at  N.  York, 
has  proved  a  bad  speculation — though  the  former  is 
twice  the  size  of  the  latter,  and  appears  to  be  more  de- 
serted. It  contains  Peale's  Museum,  one  of  the  best  in 
the  United  States,  comprising  the  most  complete  skel- 
eton of  the  Mammoth  perhaps  in  the  world.  It  is  per- 
fect, with  the  exception  of  a  few  bones,  which  have  been 
supplied  by  imitating  the  others.  This  skeleton  was 
found  in  Ulster  county,  New- York. 


ki 


\ 


If 


M   '■''■ 
III  (■  ,1 


Q   11, 1  t 


it 


66 


THILADELPHIA. 


The  Academy  of  Arts,  in  Chestnut  street,  contains 
a  large  number  of  paintings,  several  of  which  are  the 
property  of  Joseph  Bonaparte.  Among  these  is  one 
executed  by  David,  representing  Napoleon  crossing  the 
Alps.  Another  is  a  full  length  portrait  of  Joseph  him- 
self, as  king  of  Spain. 

The  U.  S.  Mint,  estabhshed  here,  is  at  present  in  an 
ordinary  building ;  though  a  new  and  handsome  edifice 
is  constructing  for  the  purpose. 

The  City  Library,  was  first  established  through  the 
enterprise  and  influence  of  Franklin  in  1731.  It  is  lo- 
cated in  a  neat  and  ornamental  edifice  on  the  east  side 
of  Fifth  street,  opposite  the  State  House  Square,  and 
contains  about  24,000  volumes,  besides  the  Loganian 
library  of  ancient  classics  of  about  11,O0(^ volumes,  un- 
der the  same  roof. 

The  ATHENEUM,on  the  second  floor  of  the  Philosoph- 
ical Hfill  in  Fifth  street,  contains  5300  volumes  and  a 
variety  of  newspapers  from  various  parts  of  the  union. 
There  are  also  deposited  here  a  series  of  rare  and  valu- 
able pamphlets,  forming  140  volumes,  which  belonged 
to  Doct.  Franklin ;  many  of  which  are  enriched  with 
his  MS.  notes.  Strangers  are  admitted  to  this  institu- 
tion, on  being  introduced  by  a  subscriber,  and  a  regis- 
ter of  their  names  is  kept. 

The  American  Philosophical  Society  was  founded  in 
1743,  principally  by  the  exertions  of  Doct.  Franklin. 
The  members  have  a  large  and  commodious  building 
on  a  part  of  the  State  House  Square,  in  which  they  have 
deposited  about  6000  volumes  of  valuable  books,  and  a 
collection  of  objects  of  natural  history,  consisting  prin- 
cipally of  minerals  and  fossil  remains.    The  PresidentvS 


PHILADELPHIA. 


67 


of  the  society  have  been  Benjamin  Frankhn,  David 
Rittenhouse,  Thomas  Jefferson,  Caspar  Wistor,  Rob- 
ert Patterson  and  William  Tilghman. 

The  University  of  Pennsylvania  is  situated  in 
Ninth  street,  between  Market  and  Chestnut  streets.  It 
was  founded  in  1750,  and  is  in  a  highly  prosperous  and 
flourishing  condition. 

Of  the  public  works  of  Philadelphia,  there  are  none  of 
which  its  inhabitants  are  more  justly  proud  than  those 
at  Fair  Mount,  by  which  the  city  is  supplied  with  wa- 
ter of  the  best  quality,  in  the  greatest  plenty.     Fair 
Mount  is  in  the  rear  of  the  city  upon  the  bank  of  the 
Schuylkill,  the  neighborhood  of  which  affords  a  variety 
of  romantic  scenery.     Tlie  situation  is  such  as  pecul- 
iarly adapts  it  for  the  purpose  to  which  it  has  been  de- 
voted.    The  reservoirs  are  situated  on  the  top  of  a  hill 
rising  from  the  river,  a  part  of  it  perpendicular  rock,  up- 
wards of  one  hundred  feet.     The  ascent  from  the  river 
to  the  reservoirs  is  by  a  flight  of  substantial  wooden 
steps,  with  resting  places,  over  one  of  which  is  a  tem- 
ple.    The  reservoirs,  which  arc  surrounded  with  a  pale 
fence,  outside  of  which  is  a  gravelled  walk,  contain  up- 
wards of  twelve  millions  of  gallons,  supplying  the  city 
through  between  15  and  20  miles  of  pipes.     The  water 
was  formerly  forced  to  the  reservoirs  by  steam,  which 
IS  no  longer  us^^d  ;  it  is  now  raised  by  machinery  pro- 
pelled by  the  fe-^huylkill.     The  machinery  is  simple, 
and  is  turned  by  ^arge  water  wheels,  of  which  there  are 
Ave,  one  of  them  cf  iron  of  24  tons  weight.  Their  speed 
may  be  graduated  to  any  required  number  of  revolu- 
tions per  minute ;  and  if  all  are  in  motion,  they  will 
raise  seven  millions  of  gallons  in  24  hours.     To  turn 


fl 


68 


PHILADELPHIA. 


'  J . 


•{     I 


them,  the  Schuylkill  has  been  dammed  its  whole  breadth, 
by  which  the  water  is  thrown  back  into  a  reservoir 
lock,  whence  it  is  admitted  as  required  to  operate  upon 
the  wheels,  and  is  discharged  into  the  river  below  the 
dam.     The  whole  expense  of  these  works,  including 
estimated  cost  of  works  abandoned,  was  $1,783,000. 
That  required  to  keep  thorn  in  operation  is  compara- 
tively triHing.     The  quantity  of  water  tlius  disseminat- 
ed through  the  city,  is  not  only  sufficient  for  every  fam- 
ily, but  is  used  to  wash  the  streets.     It  is  of  immense 
service  in  case  of  fire,  as  it  is  only  necessary  to  screw 
the  hose  to  hydrants,  which  are  placed  at  convenient 
distances,  to  secure  a  constant  stream  of  sufficient  force 
to  reach  an  ordinary  height. 

The  Navy  Yard  (on  the  DelaM^ai*e)  receives  the  vis- 
its of  strangers  more  particularly  in  consequence  of  the 
immense  vessel,  the  Pennsylvania,  there  erecting.  Her 
dimensions  are  198  feet  keel,  57  feet  beam,  and  45  feet 
in  depth  from  the  upper  deck  to  the  keel.  She  has  four 
decks,  on  which  are  to  be  mounted  from  140  to  180 
guns,  manned  by  1200  men. 

The  New  Penitentiary, located  on  elevated  ground 
near  the  city,  is  designed  to  carry  the  principle  of  soli- 
tary confinement  completely  into  effect.  Ten  acres  of 
land  are  occupied  for  the  purpose,  forming  a  square  of 
650  feet  each  way,  and  enclosed  by  massy  walls  of  gra- 
nite, 35  feet  high,  with  towers  and  battlements.  The 
prison  is  in  the  centre  of  the  square,  and  is  admirably 
calculated  for  the  purposes  for  which  it  was  designed. 
The  expense  incurred  in  its  erection  was  upwards  of 
$300,000. 


PHILADELPHIA. 


69 


readthy 
servoir 
;e  upon 
ow  the 
eluding 
83,000. 
mpara- 
emiiiat- 
)ry  fam- 
nmenae 
o  screw 
ivenicnt 
int  force 

the  vis- 

le  of  the 

Her 

45  feet 

as  four 

to  180 

I  ground 
I  of  soli" 
icres  of 
^uare  of 
of  gra- 
.  The 
Inirably 
Isigned, 
lards  of 


'g- 


In  amount  of  shipping,  Philadelphia  occupies  the 
fourth  rank  in  the  U.  S. ;  and  three  lines  of  regular  and 
commodious  packets  now  run  between  the  city  and 
Liverpool. 

Its  principal  hotels  are,  the  U.  S.  Hotel,  opposite  the 
U.  S.  Bank,  in  Chestnut  street ;  the  Mansion  House, 
122  South  I'hird  street ;  City  Hotel,  41  N.  Third  street; 
National  Hotel,  1 16  Chestnut  street ;  Washingfton  Ho- 
tel, Nos.  6  and  8  North  Fourtli  street ;  and  Contjress 
Hall,  in  Third  street,  above  Chestnut.  The  principal 
private  boarding  houses  are  the  following  :  Mrs.  Fra- 
ser,  324  Spruce  street  ;  Mrs.  Sword,  207  Chestnut  st. ; 
Mrs.  Allen,  42  South  Sixth  st. ;  Miss  Boyd,  287  Chest- 
nut St. ;  Mrs.  Allibone,  139  Walnut  st. ;  Mrs.  Austie, 
21  South  Third  r:t.  ;  Mrs.  Linn,  98  South  Third  st. ; 
Mrs.  Eaton,  South  East  corner  of  Fifth  and  Library 
streets  ;  Mrs.  Wilson,  Chestnut  street. 

The  banks  of  the  Schuylkill,  near  Philadelphia,  con- 
tain numerous  elegant  country  seats,  and  several  pub- 
lic buildings.  Among  the  private  residences,  none  are 
perhaps  more  justly  admired  than  that  of  Henry  Pratt, 
Esq.  on  Lemon  Hill.  The  mansion  house  is  situated 
on  the  eastern  bank  of  the  river,  and  directly  above  the 
Fair  Mount  Water  Works,  about  a  mile  from  the  city. 
Connected  with  the  mansion  are  gardens  of  the  most 
extensive  kind,  laid  out  in  a  style  of  much  elegance  and 
taste.  To  these  gardens,  respectable  citizens  and  stran- 
gers have  free  access  ;  and  a  ride  to  them  is  among  the 
various  pleasant  excursions  in  the  vicinity  of  the  city. 

The  Shot  Tower  of  Mr.  Beck  is  also  an  object  of 
much  curiosity  to  strangers  visiting  Philadelphia.  It 
Stands  on  the  east  bank  of  the  Schuylkill,  in  the  rear  of 


■■PM 


;iJ   5 


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hi       Hi 


J    I 


70 


INTERNAL  IMPROVEMENTS. 


the  city,  and  is  a  lofty  edifice,  from  the  top  of  which  a 
very  extensive  view  can  be  liad  of  the  surrounding 
country. 

The  Penn  Monument,  commnmorative  of  the  spot 
where  Wilham  Penn,  the  founder  of  the  colony  of 
Pennsylvania,  made  a  treaty  witli  the  aborigines,  ia 
near  the  intersection  of  Beach  and  Hanover  streets. 

Steam  boats  leave  Philadelphia  every  morning  at  6 
o'clock,  Sundays  excepted,  for  Baltimore  and  New- 
York. 

The  Philadelphia  and  Liverpool  Packets,  which 
are  handsomely  fitted  up,  sail  from  Philadelphia  on  the 
20th  and  from  Liverpool  on  the  8th  of  each  month. 

In  the  NEW  LINE  BY  way  of  Savannah,  the  packets 
sail  from  Philadelphia  the  20th  of  each  month. 

INTERNAL  IMPROVEMENTS. 

The  first  turnpike  in  America  Was  made  in  Pennsyl- 
vania; and  the  state  at  this, time  contains  near  3000 
miles  of  turnpike  roads,  at  a  cost  of  about  $8,000,000. 
Among  the  bridges  built  across  its  principal  rivers,  for- 
ty-five are  estimated  to  have  cost  $3,000,000  ;  and 
more  than  $15,000,000  have  been  expended  within  the 
state  on  canals  and  rail  roads. 

The  Union  Canal  was  commenced  about  43  years 
since  by  a  private  company  ;  but  liavini;^  to  encounter 
the  expense  of  an  extensive  tunnel  at  the  summit,  of 
236  yards  in  length,  and  an  insufiiciency  of  water  for 
the  western  section,  which  is  drawn  up  twenty  feet  by 
a  steam  engine,  it  was  partially  abandoned  ;  but  sinco 
the  completion  and  succcBsful  operation  of  the  Erie  and 
Champlain  canals,  and  a  s;timulus  having  been  produc- 


UNION    CANAL. 


71 


ears 
unter 
lit,  of 
r  for 
et  by 
sin  CO. 
>  and 
■>duc- 


ed  in  Pennsylvania,  this  canal  was  re-commenced  and 
completed,  and  is  in  successful  operation.  It  commen- 
ces near  Reading  on  the  Schuylkill  river,  51  miles  north- 
west of  Philadelphia,  and  extends  thence  in  a  westerly 
direction  to  Lebanon,  and  thence  along  the  Swatara 
creek  to  Middlctown,  on  the  Susquchannah  nver,  nine 
miles  below  Harrisburgh,  the  seat  of  government  of  tht, 
state. 

The  length  of  the  canal  is  79  miles  ;  the  water  for 
the  principal  supply  of  the  eastern  section,  a  distance  of 
40  miles,  is  drawn  from  the  Tulpehocken  river,  a  branch 
of  the  Schuylkill.  The  lockage  on  this  section  is  276^ 
feet  in  53  locks  :  the  locks  are  of  various  lifts,  and  cost 
$650  per  foot.  The  western  section  extends  39  miles, 
having  a  lockage  of  226^  feet  in  37  locks,  besides  an 
expensive  tunnel. 

By  a  law  of  the  Pennsylvania  legislature,  chartering 
the  Union  Canal  Company,  passed  in  1826,  they  were 
prohibited  from  erecting  any  works  which  should  pre- 
vent the  descent  of  rafts  in  the  channel  of  the  Swa- 
tara. This  provision  having  been  repealed  in  1829,  the 
company  subsequently  resolved  on  extending  the  canal 
to  a  point  at  or  near  the  village  of  Pine  Grove,  about 
four  miles  from  what  is  called  "  The  Coal  Region." 
From  the  basin  at  the  northern  extremity  of  the  canal, 
it  is  contemplated  to  extend  rail  roads  along  the  vallies 
of  the  Swatara  and  its  various  branches,  which  inter- 
sect the  country  in  every  direction,  and  afford  ground 
admirably  adapted  for  their  construction.  Another 
opening  at  Fishing  creek,  near  the  termination  of  the 
great  reservoir,  is  said  to  poasess  equal  advantages, 
f2 


■ 


jLl. 


TT    ; 


\-%'T 


72 


PKNNSYI.VAMA    CANAI  . 


both  as  respects  tho  position  of  its  coai  and  tin-  facility 
of  access.  _.- 

These  mines,  it  is  supposed  by  competent  judges, 
can  be  wrought  as  easily  and  economically  as  those  of 
Mount  Carbon  ;  and  it  is  confidently  predicted,  that  at 
no  very  distant  day,  the  Swatara  coal  will  form  an  im- 
portant item  of  the  consumption  and  exportation  of  the 
city  of  Philadelphia. 

By  means  of  the  Union  Canal  and  the  Schuylkill 
slack  water  navigation,  there  is  a  communication  from 
Philadelphia  to  the  Susciuehannah  river  ;  and  this  com- 
munication is  greatly  extended  by  means  of  the 

Pennsylvania  Canal,  which  commences  at  Colum- 
bia, 80  miles  north-west  of  Philadelphia,  and  unites 
with  the  Union  canal  at  Miudictown,  18  miles  farther. 
From  thence  it  proceeds  in  a  westerly  direction  to  the 
Juniata — thence  up  that  river  to  the  foot  of  the  Allegany 
mountains,  which  are  crossed  by  a  rail  road,  40  miles 
longf :  at  the  end  of  which  the  canal  re-commences, 
uniting  with  the  Allegany  and  Ohio  rivers  at  Pitts- 
burgh. The  whole  length  of  this  canal,  including  the 
rail  road  across  the  mountains,  is  314  miles,  and  tlie 
lockage  rising  of  1 100  feet.  After  reaching  the  Juniata^ 
a  singularly  romantic  and  beautiful  stream,  the  canal 
winds  along  a  gentle  and  practicable  acclivity,  follow- 
ing the  bed  of  the  river  for  nearly  a  hundred  miles. 
Two  mighty  ranges  of  mountains  rise  from  the  limpid 
Juniata,  like  two  green  leaves  of  an  immense  opening 
volume.  These  mountains,  apparently  arranged  to  the 
course  of  this  stream,  seem  to  lie  almost  at  right  angles 
to  the  great  parallel  ridges.  The  Juniata  finds  a  pas- 
sage by  a  very  equable  and  gentle  declivity  through  all 


r 
I 
t 
c 
t 


;othe 

nglcs 

pas- 

rh  all 


I'KN.VSYI.VAMa    CAN'Al.. 


73 


the  mountains  except  the  last  ridge  that  parts  its  wa- 
ters from  those  of  the  Ohio.  More  beautiful  forms  of 
mountains  than  these  which  skirt  this  river,  can  no 
where  be  seen.  Sometimes,  for  many  miles  tofrether, 
they  rise,  smooth,  verdant  and  unbroken,  by  equable 
slopes,  from  the  very  verge  of  the  stream  to  the  heioht 
of  twelve  hundred  feet;  and  here,  apparently,,  when 
the  fountains  of  the  great  deep  were  broken  up,  the 
rocky  summits  of  the  mountains  were  dismembered  at 
the  same  time.  For  miles  together,  and  in  many  pla- 
ces the  whole  sides  of  the  grand  slope,  from  summit  to 
base,  are  strown  with  large  fragments  of  smooth  build- 
ing stone  ;  and  it  is  inconceivable  how  smoothly  and 
completely  they  line  the  sides  of  these  mighty  hills. 
Layers  of  these  rocks  cover  thousands  of  acres,  for  a 
depth  apparently  of  forty  or  fifty  feet ;  and  for  a  con- 
siderable distance  the  road  is  formed  by  the  removal  of 
these  layers  along  the  sides  of  the  mountains,  the  car- 
riage winding  its  way  many  hundred  feet  above  the  ca- 
nal, which  is  perpendicularly  below. 

In  other  places,  more  recent  slides  of  the  earth  and 
rocks  from  the  summits  of  tlie  mountains  have  cut  awav 
a  visible  and  uniform  path,  sweeping  trees  and  every 
obstacle  before  it,  until  the  spoils  are  accumulated  at 
the  foot  of  the  mountains.  Indeed,  every  foot  of  this 
route  of  a  hundred  miles  is  enriched  with  scenery  of 
unexampled  sublimity  ;  and  we  can  imagine  no  higher 
treat  for  the  tourist  than  a  passage  along  its  banks, 
connected  with  the  crossing  of  the  AUeganies,  and  a 
trip  to  Pittsburgh. 

In  addition  to  the  foregoing,  the  state  have  nearly 
completed  a  canal  from  Middletown,  at  the  junction  of 


tm 


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ifi! 


I 


It 


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4     i=  i 


!i 


; 


74 


RAIL    U0AD9. 


the  Union  Canal  with  the  Susquchannah,  to  Muncy 
Hills  upon  the  West  Branch  of  that  river,  90  miles  in 
length  ;  another  from  Northumberland,  at  the  junction 
of  the  East  and  West  Branches  of  the  Susquchannah, 
up  the  former  branch,  to  Nanticoke  falls,  55  miles  j 
another  from  Bristol,  up  tbo  Delaware  river,  to  Easton, 
near  the  junction  "*  r'-  Lehigh  and  Delaware,  GO 
miles  ;  and  anothei  litorj  f^rench  creek  (a  navigable 
stream  which  rises  \V;;  i\i  ±0  miles  of  Lake  Erie,  and 
joins  the  Allegany  80  miles  froiu  Pittsburgh)  to  Muddy 
run,  in  the  north  west  part  of  the  state,  19^  miles.  The 
whole  extent  of  these  canals  is  128^  miles,  and  their  es- 
timated cost  was  $12,000,000. 

Besides  the  foregoing,  the  following  canals  belong  to 
private  companies  : 

The  Schuylkill  Canal,  from  Fhiladelphia  up  the 
Schuylkill  river,  intersecting  the  Union  canal  at  Read- 
ing, to  the  Schuylkill  coal  mines  at  Mount  Carbon — 
lockage  588  feet — length  108  miles,  including  4G  miles 
of  slack  water  on  the  river — cost  $2,336,000,  of  which 
$500,000  were  subscribed  by  the  state. 

The  Lehigh  Canal,  from  Easton,  on  the  Delaware, 
up  the  Lehigh  river  to  the  coal  mines  at  Mauch  Chunk, 
and  from  thence  to  Stoddartsville.  Length  of  the  ca- 
nal 46  miles,  lockage  35  feet,  slack  water  38  miles, 
whole  distance  84  miles. 

The  Philadelphia  and  Norristown  Rail  Road, 
commences  at  the  corner  of  Ninth  and  Spring-Garden 
streets  in  Philadelphia,  and  passes  through  German- 
town,  6  miles  distant,  and  from  thence  to  Norristown, 
9  miles  farther.  The  road  is  formed  chiefly  of  stone 
blocks,  with  heavy  iron  rails  fastened  thereon,  similar  to 


THE    COAL    MINES. 


7a 


laware, 
hunk, 

[he  ca- 
miles, 

Load, 
rarden 
Jmian- 
}town, 

stone 
lilar  to 


the  construction  of  tlie  Manchester  and  Liverpool  road. 
Until  reaching  Coliocksink  creelt,  which  is  crossed  hy 
a  large  viaduct,  the  graduated  surface  is  70  feet,  on  each 
fide  of  which  streets  are  opened,  and  several  squares 
of  buildings  have  been  erected.  The  whole  line  of  the 
road  is  interesting,  and  tlie  patronage  which  it  has  thus 
far  received  has  been  handsome. 

The  Columbia  and  Philadelphia  Rail  Road 
commences  at  the  junction  of  Broad  and  Cedar  streets 
in  Philadelphia,  crosses  the  Schuylkill  at  Peters'  Isl- 
and, passes  Paoli,  Dow'ningstown,  Coatsville,  Lancas 
ter  and  Mount  Pleasant  to  Columbia,  on  the  Susque- 
hannah,  where  it  joins  the  Pennsylania  canal.  Length 
80  miles.  The  road  consists  of  a  double  track,  ar  '  is 
composed  of  the  most  solid  and  durable  materials  ;  one 
line  being  a  continuous  stone  rail  with  an  iron  plate,  and 
the  other  consisting  of  heavy  stone  blocks  and  iron 
rails.  Locomotive  power,  as  well  as  horse,  is  used,  in 
conveying  passengers  and  freight. 

Both  of  these-  roads  are  the  property,  and  are  made  at 
the  expense  of  the  state. 

TPIE  COAL  MINES. 
Since  the  discovery  and  opening  of  the  extensive 
coal  mines  in  Pennsylvania,  and  the  great  internal  im- 
provements which  have  been  made  in  the  state,  pro- 
viding an  easy  communication  to  them,  it  has  become 
almost  a  matter  of  course  to  embrace  them  within  the 
tour  of  the  mi<Mle  and  northern  states.  The  Lehigh 
and  Schuylkill,  the  principal  mines  already  explored, 
are  located  from  100  to  120  miles  in  a  northeasterly 
direction  from  Philadelphia,  between  a  chain  of  moun- 


76 


THE    COAL    MINES. 


1     !.' 


tains  denominated  the  Blue  Rid<jfe   and  the  SusquC' 
hannah  rivei.     The  anthracite    district   is   principally 
occupied  by  mountains  runninjr  parallel  to  the  Blue 
Ridge,  often  broad  witii  table  land  summits,  and  rising 
generally  about  1500   feet   above   the   ocean.     Tiiese 
summits,  by  repeated  fires,  have  been  principally  di- 
vested of  timber,  and  are  generally  too  stony  for  til- 
lage.    The  beds  and  veins  of  anthracite  range  from 
north-east  to  south-w^cst,  and  may  often  be  traced  for 
a  considerable   distance   by  the   compass  ;    but   they 
have  been  found  in  the  greatest  quantity  in  sections 
most  accessible  by  water.     Extensive  beds  and  veins 
range  from  the  Lehigh  to  the  Susquehannah,  crossing 
the  head  waters  of  the  Schuylkill  and  Swatara  about 
ten  miles  north-west  of  the  Blue  Ridge.     They  are  al- 
so found  contiguous  to  the  Susquehannah  and  Lacka- 
wanna.    But  in  no  part  of  the  district  does  the  anthra- 
cite exist  in  such  apparently  inexhaustible  beds  as  in 
the  vicinity  of  Mauch  Chunk,  a  village  situated  on  the 
Lehigh,  35  miles  from  Easton,  and  108  by  water  from 
•  Philadelphia.     The  coal  is  there  excavated  on  the  flat 
summit  of  a  mountain  that  rises  near  1500  feet  above 
the  ocean.     It  is  disclosed  for  sever a^.   miles  on  the 
summit  wherever  excavations  have  been  made,  and  is 
indicated  in  many  places  by  coal  slate  in  a  pulverulent 
state,  on  the  surface.     The  mountain  rises  with  steep 
acclivity,  particularly  on  the  north-west  side,  and  M^hen 
penetrated  at  various  altitudes,  discloses  coal  at  about 
the  same  distance  from  the  surface.     In  the  deep  exca- 
vations made  on  the  summit,  no  termination  of  the 
coal  has  been  found,  and  it  is  not  improbable  that  an- 


THE    COAL    MINES. 


77 


n- 


thracite  forms  the  nucleus  of  the  mountain  for  a  con- 
siderable distance. 

The  coal  is  rendered  accessible  by  removing  from 
the  flat  summit  gravelly  loam,  which  is  from  a  few 
inches  to  four  feet  in  depth,  and  disintegrated  slate 
with  impure  coal,  from  two  to  four  feet.  The  coal 
rests  in  a  horizontal  position,  narrow  parallel  scams  of 
argillaceous  schist  intervening.  Strong  chalybeate 
springs,  holding  in  solution  sulphate  of  iron,  issue  from 
the  moimtain's  side.  The  coal  excavation  on  the  sur- 
face is  extensive,  and  from  30  to  40  feet  deep,  forming 
a  hollow  square,  bounded  by  lofty  mural  precipices  of 
coal.  Waggonf  are  admitted  by  avenues  that  serve  to 
discharge  w'ater  from  the  mine. 

Next  to  Mauch  Chunk,  Mount  Carbon,  or  Pottsvillc, 
situated  at  the  head  of  the  Schuylkill  canal,  has  been 
the  principal  source  of  the  supply  of  anthracite.  Many 
large  veins  are  worked  within  three  miles  of  the  land- 
ing ;  and  some  have  been  opened  seven  miles  to  the 
north-east  in  the  direction  of  the  Lehigh  beds.  The 
chief  veins  wrought  are,  one  situated  on  an  eminence 
adjacent  to  the  village  ;  Bailey's  mine,  about  2  miles 
from  Pottsville  and  near  the  turnpike  to  Lunbury  ;  and 
on  the  territory  of  the  New- York  Schuylkill  company 
about  3  miles  from  the  village.  On  almost  every  em- 
inence adjacent  to  Pottsville,  indications  of  coal  are  dis- 
closed. The  veins  generally  run  in  a  nortli-east  direc- 
tion, with  an  inclination  of  about  45  degrees,  and  are 
from  3  to  9  feet  in  thickness.  Commencing  at  or  near 
the  surface,  they  penetrate  to  an  unknown  depth,  and 
can  often  be  traced  on  hills  for  a  considerable  distance., 
by  sounding  in  a  north-east  or  south-west  direction^ 


78 


TIfK    COAL    MINKS. 


Some  veins  have  been  wrouglit  to  a  depth  of  200  feet 
without  a  ncccsflity  of  draining,  the  inclined  slate  roof 
shielding  them  from  water.  Where  the  ground  admits, 
it  is  considered  the  best  mode  of  working  veins  to  com- 
mence at  the  back  of  a  coal  mine  eminence,  or  as  low 
as  possible,  and  work  up,  filling  the  excavation  with 
slate  and  fine  coal,  leaving  a  horizontal  passage  for  the 
coal  barrows.  A  section  of  a  wide  vein  near  Pottsvillc 
has  been  excavated  by  tliis  mode  several  hundred  feet 
into  the  hill. 

On  the  extensive  tract  occupied  by  the  New- York 
company,  five  miles  from  Pottsvillc,  there  arc  also  in- 
exhaustible coal  beds,  in  the  excavating  of  which  from 
300  to  400  hands  are  employed. 

South-west  of  Pottsvillc  the  coal  becomes  more  easi- 
ly ignited,  and  that  at  Peter's  mountain,  a  few  miles 
east  of  Dansville,  is  said  to  contain  bitumen.  It  is 
probable  that  the  coal  in  that  vicinity  embraces,  like 
the  Wilkesbarre,  much  more  inflammable  gas  than  the 
Lehigh,  which  may  have  led  to  the  supposition  that  it 
was  bituminous. 

Anthracite  is  found  on  several  of  the  streams  that 
discharge  into  the  Susquehannah,  on  its  eastern  side. 
A  large  bed  exists  a  few  miles  easterly  from  Berwick, 
and  numerous  veins  occur  from  an  elevated  part  of  the 
Wilkesbarre  mountain,  to  the  Kingston  and  Shawnese 
mountains,  thai  form  the  western  border  of  the  basin  of 
V/yoming.     Veins  of  coal  in  the  vale  of  the  latter,* 


»i 


*  The  valley  of  Wvoming  is  rendered  memorable  in 

^  •'  %/  cry 

history  from  the  bloody  massacre  of  the  white  settlers 
by  the  Indians  commanded  by  Col.  Butler  during  the 


^.^ 


THE    COAL    MINES. 


79 


about  125  miles  north-west  of  Philadelphia,  art*  not  only 
very  numerous,  occurring  on  almost  every  fanii,  but 
many  are  ol"  uncommon  tliicknes3.+ 

Extensive  beds  of  coal  are  also  found  adjoining  the 
head  waters  of  the  Lycoming  creek  ;  and  a  Lycoming 
Coal  Company  has  been  chartered,  with  a  capital  of 
$250,000.  This  coal  lies  in  horizontal  veins  elevated 
considerably  above  the  ordinary  level  of  the  adjacent 
country,  and  is,  of  course,  mined  with  much  less  dilli- 
culty  than  in  many  other  districts.  The  state  canal 
up  the  west  branch  of  the  Susquchannah  river  inter- 
sects with  the  Lycoming  creek,  to  the  mouth  of  which, 
the  company  are  authorized  to  construct  a  rail  road,  20 
miles  in  length.  When  completed,  they  will  have  an 
uninterrupted  rail  road  and  canal  communication  to 
Philadelphia,  distant,  by  land  and  water,  260  miles. 
This  mine  is  advantageously  hxated  for  supplying  the 
city  of  New- York  and  the  south-western  part  of  the 
state,  and  will  doubtless  prove  of  great  value  to  the 
company. 


that 
side, 
dck. 
If  the 
^nese 
^in  oi 
Lter,* 


)le  in 
Ltlers 
the 


revolution,  and  immortalized  in  song  by  the  beautiful 
poem  of  Campbell.  The  village  of  Wilkesbarre,  on  the 
Susquchannah  river,  has  been  built  near  the  place  of 
this  massacre.  Solomon's  creek,  a  tributary  stream, 
and  which  unites  with  the  Susquchannah  in  this  val- 
ley, contains  two  cry  romantij  falls,  a  short  distance 
from  Wilkesbarre. 

*  For  the  preceding  sketch  of  the  coal  region,  the 
editor  is  mostly  indebted  to  tiie  Journal  of  Science  and 
Arts,  an  invaluable  work,  published  at  New-Haven, 
Conn,  by  professor  Silhman. 


1^(15*"^ 


80 


NORRISTOWN — READING. 


,\    * 


M  ■  i 


I,  if? 


ROUTE  TO  THE  SCHUYLKILL  COAL 

MINES. 
From  Philadelphia  to  Port  Carbon,  is  108  miles,  and 
the  intermediate  distances  are  as  follows  : 


Miles. 
By  rail  road. 
From  Philadelphia  to 

Germantown, 6 

Norristown, 9 

By  stage  ar  canal. 

Phenixville, 13 

Pottstown 14 

Unionsville, 4 


Miles. 

Birdsboro', 6 

Reading, 10 

Hamburgh,  ..••••...  23 

Port  Clinton, 4 

SchuyLiill  Haven, ...  12 

Pottsville, 5 

Port  Carbon, 2 


The  Norristown  rail  road  is  taken  at  Philadelphia, 
which  passes  through  Germantown,  distant  6  miles, 
distinguished  as  the  spot  of  a  sanguinary  contest  dur- 
ing the  revolution  ;  and  from  thence  to 

Norristown,  9  miles  farther.  This  village  is  hand- 
somely located  on  the  north  bank  of  the  Schuylkill.  It 
is  the  capital  of  Montgomery  county,  and  contains  a 
number  of  elegant  dwellings.  It  was  formerly  the  res- 
idence of  the  celebrated  Doct.  Rittenhouse.  From  this 
place,  a  stage  or  canal  packet  is  taken,  which  passes 
♦hrough  Phenixville  to 

PoTTSTOWN,  or  PoTTSGROVE,  18  milcs  above  Nor- 
ristown, which  is  a  pleasant  village  on  the  east  bank  of 
the  river. 

Reading,  20  miles  farther,  located  on  the  east  side  of 
the  river,  is  the  capital  of  Berk's  county.  It  is  a  flour- 
ishing town,  regularly  laid  out,  and  is  inhabited  princi- 


j^i 


MOUNT    CARBON. 


81 


lor- 
of 


of 
lur- 
Ici- 


pally  by  Germans.  Its  population  is  about  6000.  Near 
this  place  the  Union  Canal,  noticed  at  page  70,  com- 
mences. Six  miles  from  Reading  is  a  cutting  of  60  feet 
in  depth  through  a  solid  rock  ;  the  contract  for  which 
having  been  taken  by  a  Mr.  Duncan,  the  spot  is  called 
Duncaii's  Job.  From  this  place  to  the  Blue  Ridge,  the 
Schuylkill  winds  through  a  valley  in  which  thgre  is 
considerable  limestone,  the  fissures  and  cavities  of 
which  in  some  places  rendered  the  formation  of  a  re- 
tentive canal  difficult. 

Hamburgh  is  situated  on  the  east  side  of  the  river, 
23  miles  above  Reading  rear  the  Blue  Ridge.  It  is  a 
pleasant  and  thriving  village,  near  which  is  what  is 
called  the  Mountain  Danij  27  feet  high.  The  passage 
of  the  Schuylkill  and  canal  through  the  Blue  Ridge  is 
interesting  and  romantic.  The  mountains  bordering 
the  ravine  are  lofty  and  precipitous,  presenting  ledges 
of  old  and  red  sand  stone,  with  coarse  and  fine  silicious 
gray  wacke.  The  turnpike  winds  on  the  mountain 
side  at  a  great  elevation  above  the  stream,  giving  to 
the  traveller  a  subliinc  and  varied  scenery.  The  navi- 
gation through  the  pass,  or  what  is  called  the  Schuylkill 
Water  Gap,  is  effected  by  stone  dams  of  magnitude  and 
permanent  construction  ;  and  groups  of  locks,  water 
falls  and  broad  sheets  of  water  are  frequent. 

After  passing  the  Water  Gap,  tho  next  object  of  at- 
traction is  the  Tunnel,  which  has  been  bored  through  a 
hill  375  yards  for  the  canal.  The  village  of  Orwisburgh 
is  3  miles  farther  ;  from  which  to 

Mount  Carbon  or  Pottsville  is  8  miles.  This 
place,  centrally  located  in  the  coal  region,  has  attained 


i  mi 


sa 


RAIL    ROADS. 


:<.! 


*« 


yy. 


Mil  astonishing  growtli  within  a  very  short  period.  In 
1824  it  was  a  wilderness  ;  in  1829  it  contained  223  ten- 
ements, and  a  population  of  2700  inhabitants  j  and  in 
1832,  492  dwellings,  and  about  5000  inhabitants;  4 
churches,  a  bank,  3  printnig  offices,  and  a  large  num- 
ber  of  stores,  shops  and  public  houses,  some  of  which 
are  very  elegant.  The  town  is  laid  oui  in  regular 
squares,  and  the  main  street,  about  a  mile  in  length, 
presents  on  each  side  a  com;  act  row  of  large  and  sub- 
stantial buildings.  The  principal  streets  are  M'Ad- 
amized  in  the  centre,  with  brick  side  walks,  giving  a 
neat  and  durable  appearance  to  the  promenades. 

The  coal  in  this  region  has  been  described  in  the  pre- 
ceding pages  of  this  work.  Besides  the  numerous  fa- 
cilities afforded  for  its  transportation  by  water,  several 
rail  roads  have  been  constructed  in  the  immediate  vi- 
cinity of  Mount  Carbon,  Among  these  are  the  Schuyl- 
kill Valley  Rail  Road,  10  miles  ;  the  Mount  Carbon,  8 
miles  ;  the  Mill  Creek,  3  miles  ;  the  West  Branch,  17 
miles  ;  and  the  Little  Schuylkill,  22  miles— making  an 
aggregate  of  61  miles. 

The  Mount  Carbon  rail  road,  commences  at  the  land- 
ing on  the  Schuylkill,  and  passes  through  Pottsville  up 
to  the  heads  of  the  Norwegian  creek.  From  its  com- 
mencement to  its  termination,  there  is  not  a  quarter  of 
a  mile  in  which  it  does  not  cross  one  or  more  veins  of 
coal,  at  right  angles.  The  whole  valley,  indeed,  wa- 
tered by  this  creek,  is  redolent  with  coal  of  the  finest 
quality. 

The  West  Branch  rail  road  commences  at  Schuylkill 
Haven,  and  extends  up  to  the  confluence  of  the  West 
and  west  West  Branches  of  the  Schuylkill,  from  whence 


I 


MMH 


f 
f 


? 


VILLAuES    NEAR    THE    COAL    MIN'F.S. 


83 


branchoF  follow  the  direction  of  Ihc  two  Rtrcanir?  to  the 
foot  of  the  Broad  Mountain,  niriking  u  dii^tanco,  alto- 
gcthf'r,  of  about  17  miles. 

The  little  Schuylkill  rail  road  extends  to  the  river  of 
that  name,  a  branch  of  the  principal  stream.  It  rises 
20  miles  north-east  of  the  Gap  in  the  Blue  I'idge,  the 
place  of  its  outlet. 

Of  the  numerous  villages  which  have  sprung!:  up  in 
the  vicinity'  of  these  mines  is  Port  Carbon,  a  short  dis- 
tance from  Pottsville,  containinir  from  100  to  150  build- 


mgs. 


Pursuing  up  the  route  of  the  Valley  Rail  Road,  tlic 
traveller  next  comes  to  Tuscarora,  Middleporl,  Patter- 
son, New  PhiUid'4phia,  and  Tuscarora  again.  The 
three  former  {places  arc  at  the  intersection  of  the  large 
lateral  road  which  leads  up  the  creek  tributary  to  the 
river — the  latter  is  at  tlie  liead  of  the  main  rail  road, 
built  by  Messrs.  Lyons  and  Lawton. 

Tip  the  Mill  Creek  Rail  Road,  about  two  miles,  is  St. 
Clairsville,  and  at  its  h^ad  New  Castle,  where  the  road 
from  Port  Carbon  intersects  the  Centre  Turnpike. 
Doth  these  places  have  extensive  water  powcis,  and 
are  admirably  located  for  mills,  &c. 

At  the  junction  of  the  "West  Branch  of  the  Schuyl- 
kill with  the  main  river,  Schuylkill  Pfaven  is  a  beauti- 
fully situated  place,  wdiich  will  be  mart  of  pII  the  im- 
mense coal  region  of  the  West  and  W(  st  WcstBranch- 
p3  ;  this  location  is  destined  to  be  the  focus  of  an  ex- 
tensive business.  Minersville  is  anothisr  site  on  the 
same  branch,  nearly  west  of  Pottsville.  This,  from  its 
Situation  among  extensive  collieries,  will  soon  become 
a  j)opvdous  place,  as  the  residence  of  those  engaged  in 

u2 


"I 

r 
k 


1  y 


fl4 


MAITCH   CHUNK. 


lh(;  coal  biisinoss.  Further  up,  on  the  Broad  Moun- 
tain, is  Garl)ondale,  which  also  promises  to  be  a  place 
of  some  importance. 

Route  to  the  Lehigh  Coal  Miiies. 

From  Orwisl>urgh,  a  stage  can  be  taken  to  Mauch 
Chunk,  at  the  Lehigh  coal  mines,  a  distance  of  15 
miles  in  a  north-castwardly  direction.  This  route  is 
recommended  to  travellers  from  the  south,  designing  a 
general  visit  to  the  coal  region.  From  the  north,  the 
most  direct  route  is,  to  pursue  the  line  of  the  Morris 
canal  from  Newark,  N.  Jersey,  to  Easton,  or  the  route 
from  New- York  to  Schoolcy's  Mountain,  and  from 
thence  to  Easton,  proceeding  up  the  Lehigh  to  Mauch 
Chunk.  A  very  common  route  from  Philadelphia  to 
the  Lehi^f^b  is  by  steam-  boat  to  Bristol,  20  miles  up  the 
Delaware,  and  from  thence  by  stage  through  Newton 
and  New-Hope  to  Easton,  50  miles  farther.  This  route 
is  mostly  on  the  bank  of  the  Delaware,  and  passes 
through  a  pleasant  section  of  the  country,  affording  a 
rich  and  diversified  scenery. 


MAUCH  CHUNK. 

The  village  of  Mauch  Chunk  is  situated  on  the  west- 
ern bank  of  the  Lehigh,  in  a  deep  romantic  ravine,  be- 
tweeri  rocky  mountains  that  rise  in  some  parts  precipi- 
tously to  800  or  1000  feet  above  the  stream.  Space  was 
procured  for  dwellings  by  breaking  down  the  adjacent 
rocks,  and  by  filling  a  part  of  the  ravine  of  the  Mauch' 
Churl  "-reek.  A  portion  of  this  stream  has  been  trans- 
ferred to  an  elevato' .  rail- way,  and  is  used  to  propel  a 
grist  mil'     The  village  contain?  about  200  dwellings, 


i 


mtmu 


MAUCH  «  Ilt'NK   RAIL  ROAD. 


85 


bcloneing  principally  to  the  Lehigh  Company,  who 
have  between  800  and  1000  men  in  their  employ. 
Mauch  Chnnk  seems  by  nature  designed  for  a  place  of 
business,  but  as  there  is  not  suflicicnt  room,  owing  to 
the  approach  of  the  mountains  to  the  Lehigh,  for  a 
town  of  much  size,  the  business  of  the  place  will  most 
hkely  be  confmcd  principally  to  the  shipment  of  coal. 

The  Mauch  Chunk  Rail-Road  leads  from  near  the 
coal  mines  on  the  mountain  down  an  inclined  plane  to 
the  Lehigh  river.  It  is  eight  miles  iong,  and  has  been 
in  operation  5  or  6  years.  The  sleepers  on  which  the 
rails  rest,  as  well  as  the  rails,  are  of  wood  ;  the  latter 
plated  with  iron.  Experiments  have  been  made  as  to 
the  velocity  that  might  be  obtained  for  the  cars  loaded 
with  coal  and  the  horses  and  mules  to  draw  them  back 
to  the  summit  when  the  coal  had  been  discharged  ;  and 
it  has  been  found,  that  though  the  speed  of  the  cars 
might  be  increased  to  thirty  or  forty  miles  an  hour  with 
safety,  yet  the  beasts,  as  well  as  the  men  who  guided 
the  cars,  became  in  a  few  days  sickly,  on  account  of 
the  rapid  and  confused  appearance  of  objects  as  they 
were  passed  on  the  way.  The  directors  of  the  com- 
pany have  therefore  been  compelled  to  limit  the  veloci- 
ty of  the  cars  to  14  miles  an  hour  in  their  descent,  to 
obviate  the  disagreeable  consequences  of  the  more  v  p- 
id  motion.  Pleasure  carriages  sometimes  go  up  this 
rail-way  with  strangers ;  but  the  more  common  prac- 
tice is  to  go  up  in  the  returning  cars.  The  road  gen- 
erally passes  along  a  narrow  slielf,  with  precipices  on 
its  side  not  unfrequently  of  from  300  to  600  feet.  Af 
the  end  of  the  rail-road,  the  cars  are  let  down  to  the 


fi  '■■, 


m^ 


t/.TW.I'VJJ 


PG 


LEHIGH    niVRR. 


in  <  ,■■'  r 


river  on  an  inclined  pljino  of  700  feet,  equal  to  a  perpen- 
dicular descent  of  200  feet. 

A  tunnel,  12  {ooX  high,  20  wide  and  nearly  800  lon^r, 
was  cut  through  the  mountain  hy  the  company  in  1826, 
for  the  purpose  of  shortenino;  the  passage  to  a  bed  of 
coal  supposed  to  lie  on  the  other  side.  This  labor  was 
lost,  as  no  coal  was  found  in  the  direction  of  the  tunnel. 
The  beds  belonging  to  the  company,  however,  arc  in- 
exhaustible in  other  directions. 

The  Lehigh  Canal  was  noticed  at  page  74.  The 
Lehigh  River  is  a  copious  rapid  stream,  and  rises  by 
vario\is  mountain  braiichcs  forty  miles  north-west  of 
Mauch  Chunk,  which  unite  below  Stoddartsville,  25 
miles  above  Mauch  Chunk.  The  fall  of  the  river  be- 
tween those  two  places  is  845  feet.  Eleven  miles  be- 
low Mavich  Clmn!L,  it  papses  through  the  Kittatinny 
range  of  mountains,  and  in  the  intermediate  space  falls 
245  feet.  From  the  Lehigh  Water  Gap,  or  passage 
through  the  Kittatinny,  to  its  junction  with  the  Dela- 
ware at  Easton,  35  miles,  it  falls  205  feet  ;  making  the 
entire  fall  from  Stoddartsville  1210  feet.  To  overcome 
the  descent  from  Mauch  Chunk  to  Easton,  21  dams  and 
52  locks  hav(^  been  founr^  necessary.  They  are  located 
;vt,  the  head  of  rapids,  enabling  the  navigator  to  com- 
niand  an  artirieiJ  iresht  t,  when  the  stream  from  its 
d'is[)ersion  would  not  otherwise  admit  of  the  passage  of 
boats.  Water  from  the  dam  is  copiously  admitted  in- 
to a  rail-^^'ay  that  extends  to  i'po  foot  of  the  rajud.  The 
gates  are  attached  by  liinges  to  the  bottom  of  the  lock, 
and  rise  by  the  foicc  of  v»  iter  admitted  from  a  lioom, 
coiiotructed  par  dlel  with  the  lock,  and  remain  susp?nd- 


eill 

H( 

ani 

th[ 


ii 


««l 


'hil  i.ANniNG — lehightom. 


S7 


ed,  turuiino^  a  section  of  tlie  dam.  It'  llie  gate  of  the 
flooni  is  closed,  the  water  between  the  gates  passes  oft', 
and  they  fall  by  their  own  weight  and  the  pressure  of 
the  water  from  the  dain. 

The  Landing,  or  Lausanne,  above  Maiich  Chunk, 
from  its  location  at  the  head  of  the  navigation,  and 
at  the  commencement  of  the  turnpike  road  leading 
to  the  Susquehannah,  will  in  a  short  time  become  a 
place  of  deposit  for  merchandize  and  produce,  destined 
to  and  from  the  upper  country.  The  Nesquehoning 
creek  here  empties  into  the  Lehigh,  and  will  tend  much 
to  bring  the  town  forward  and  render  it  a  place  of  busi- 
ness, as  from  the  extensive  water  power  which  this 
stream  affords,  manufactories  can  be  estabhshed  at 
comparatively  a  very  small  expense.  Eight  miles  be- 
low  Mauch  Chunk  is  the  pleasant  village  of 

Lehiohton.  The  ground  plot  of  the  town  is  laid  out 
upon  an  elevated  piece  of  table  land,  and  the  lots  are 
sufficiently  large  to  afford  an  entensive  garden  and  yard 
to  each  dwelling.  The  village  commands  a  prospect 
of  the  river  and  canal ;  the  valley  in  which  the  town 
of  Weiss  Fort  is  located  ;  the  Blue  Mountain  in  tho 
distance,  and  a  nearer  view  of  the  Mahoning  mountain 
and  the  Lehigh  hills.  The  Mahoning  creek  flows  at 
the  foot  of  the  Mahoning  mountain,  and  empties  into 
the  Lehigh  within  half  a  mile  of  the  village,  where  has 
been  discovered  a  mineral  spring,  the  waters  of  which 
have  proved  highly  beneficial  in  many  caaes  of  diseaie 
and  debility. 


m 


"8?^ 


BETRLP-HEM. 


The  Lehigh  Water  Gap  is  3  miles  farther.  The 
river  is  here  confined  within  very  narrow  limits,  being 
bounded  on  either  side  with  the  bold  and  precipitous 
Kittatinny  mountains.  The  scenery  is  in  a  high  de- 
gree wild,  picturesque  and  frequently  sublime.  Be- 
low the  mountains  the  features  of  nature  are  less  mag- 
nificent, hut  still  follow  in  a  romantic  succession  of 
stronorly  contrasted  and  elegant  landscapes. 


61 

si 


BETHLEnEi>:  is  11  miles  from  the  Water  Gap.  It  is  a 
settlement  of  the  AToravians,  or  United  Brethren.  The 
situation  is  healthful  and  pleasant,  and  it  is  a  place 
much  resorted  to  in  the  summer  months.  The  church 
belonging  to  the  society,  is  one  of  the  largest  in  the 
state,  though  exhibiting  in  its  structure  much  plainness. 
From  its  steeple,  a  very  beautiful,  picturesque  and  ex- 
tended view  can  be  obtained.  In  one  direction  the 
scene  stretches  for  upwards  of  20  miles  along  the  course 
of  the  Lehigh  and  the  Water  Gap,  the  wandering  ex- 
plomtions  of  the  eye  terminating  at  the  Blue  Mountain 
range. 

When  a  death  occurs,  a  part  of  the  choir  ascend  the 
steeple,  where  a  requiem  or  funeral  hymn  is  sung  for 
their  departed  brother  or  sister.  The  body  is  subse- 
quently placed  in  what  is  termed  the  "corpse  house,"  a 
building  detached  from  all  others,  where  it  remains 
three  days,  typical  of  the  death  and  burial  of  the  Sav- 
iour, and  then  is  interred  in  the  church  yard.  This  is 
divided  into  various  departments  and  methodically  ar- 
ranged, though  with  much  plainness  and  simphcity. 

The  society  take  charge  of  their  own  poor,  of  which, 
howevor,  there  are  very  few  ;  a  strong  argument  in  fa- 
vor of  their  regulations. 


Wl 


IWaiNlWHi'^iii.iilWtL-  'l.g- 


of 


lins 
)  av- 
is is 
ar- 

[ch, 
ifa- 


EASTON. 


89 


The  town  is  supplied  with  water  fioiii  the  Monocko- 
sy  creek.  The  works  are  said  to  be  the  oldest  in  the 
state,  having  been  in  operation  more  than  eighty  years. 
Those  at  Fairmount,  Philadelphia,  are  constructed  upon 
similar  principles.  The  house  where  Gen.  La  Fayette 
lay  during  his  recovery  from  the  wound  he  received  at 
the  battle  of  Brandy  wine,  is  pointed  out  here.  His 
nurse  on  that  occasion  has  continued  to  reside  in  the 
place  ever  since,  and  received  a  visit  from  him  when  he 
was  last  in  this  country. 

Easton  is  12  miles  from  Bethlehem,  and  is  the  capi- 
tal of  Northampton  county,  Fenn.  It  is  located  on  the 
Delaware  river,  immediately  above  the  entrance  of  the 
Lehigh,  in  a  valley  between  the  Musconetcunk  moun- 
tains. Several  rude  and  isolated  hills  stand  in  the  val- 
ley, commanding  extensive  views  and  giving  to  the 
place  a  picturesque  appearance.  The  town  is  tasteful- 
ly laid  out,  with  an  open  square  in  the  centre,  and  con- 
tains several  handsome  dwellings.  Its  public  buildings 
are  a  court  house,  jail,  poor  house,  3  churches,  a  bank 
and  an  academy.  A  bridge  extending  across  the  Del- 
aware at  this  place  cost  $60,000.  There  is  also  a  chain 
bridge  across  the  Lehigh. 

The  location  of  Easton  is  highly  favorable  for  trade  ; 
and  it  will  ultimately  become  one  of  the  most  impor- 
tant towns  in  the  state.  Besides  the  great  advantages 
here  possessed  for  manufacturing  purposes,  and  the 
contiguity  of  the  place  to  the  Delaware  and  Lehigh  riv- 
ers, it  is  the  point  at  which  three  important  canals,  th© 
Delaware,  the  Lehigh  and  the  Morris  concentrate.  Tljo 
two  first  have  already  been  noticed.     (See  page  74.) 


I' 

li 


i'i 


^ 


90 


MOKhlS    CANAI 


.i    •    \ 


The  Morris  Canal  exteml.s  Irom  Ktision  to  New- 
ark, N.  Jersey,  a  dibtance  of  HG  miiIos,  uiid  troin  thence 
to  Powle's  Hook,  opposite  New-York,  8  miles  further, 
lockage   1600  feet,  which  is   surmounted  by  inchned 
planes.     The  eastern  Hection  of  this  canal  was  com- 
pleted in  1829.     From  Newark  to  Patterson,  the  coun- 
try through  which  tiie  canal  passes  is  beautiful.    At  the 
latter  place,  a  view  of  the  extenfiive  manuHiCtoriea  is 
had,  located  on  the  north.     On  the  south,  the  canal  for 
some  distance  is  bounded  by  mountainous  rugged  clifVs, 
the  rocky  excavations   through  which  were  attended 
with  great  labor  and  expense.     Four  mih^s  al)ove  Pat- 
terson is  what  is  called  the  Grand  Aqueduct  across  the 
Passaic  river  at  the  Little  Falls.     This  aqueduct  may 
justly  be  ranked,  for  its  admirable  construction,  work- 
manship, space  of  the   arch   and    elevation,  with  the 
greatest  objects  of  curiosity  in  artificial  navigation,  and 
altogether  may  be  considered  superior  to  any  thing  of 
the  kind  in  this  country.     Half  a  mile  further  is  an 
aqueduct  across  the  Pompton  river,  a  work  of  consider- 
able magnitude.     The  whole  route,  indeed,  from  New- 
ark to  Easton  is  interesting,  and  worthy  the  attention 
of  the  tourist. 


% 


'■i 


From  Easton  to  the  Delaware  Water  Gap,  the  distance 
is  23  miles.  The  route  proceeds  up  the  river  to  Rich- 
mond, 14  miles  ;  from  thence  to  Williamsburgh,  4 
miles  ;  and  from  the  latter  place  to  the  Water  Gap,  5 
miles.  The  current  of  the  stream  is  here  contracted  at 
the  base  of  two  lofty  mountains  in  opjHjsite  directions, 
between  w^hich  the  passage  is  extremely  narrow.  It  is 
supposed  that  here  was  formerly  a  barrier  over  whicli 


NEWARK. 


»1 


the  river  flowed  in  the  form  of  a  cataract,  which  was 
suhsequently  worn  away,  leaving  a  smooth  unrufiled 
current.     The  scene  is  wild,  and  highly  interesting. 

From  Easton  to  the  Delaware  Wind  Gap,  an  impor- 
tant passage  through  the  Blue  Mountains,  is  12  miles, 
in  a  northwardly  direction. 

From  Easton  to  Schoohfs  Mountahiy  and  thence  to  A'crc- 
Yorky  the  whole  distance  is  7 1  miles,  as  follows  : 


Miles. 
From  Easton  to  Phil- 

ipshugh, 1 

Top  of  Schooly's 

Mountain, 24 

Mendham, 12 


tMiles. 
Morristown,. ,..,,,,     6 

Passaic  river, 7 

Newark, 11 

New- York, 10 


in 


h- 
4 
5 

lit 

') 

IS 


Schooly's  Mountain,  in  New-Jersey,  is  a  place  of 
fashionable  resort  from  New- York,  in  the  summer 
months,  owing  to  its  cool,  airy  and  healthful  situation, 
and  to  the  extensive  prospect  afforded  from  its  top  ;  on 
which  there  is  an  excellent  public  house.  Within  a 
mile  of  its  summit  there  are  mineral  springs,  M'hich 
are  usually  resorted  to  by  visitants  at  the  mountain 
house. 

Newark,  N.  J.  which  is  located  on  the  route,  and 
which  is  within  10  miles  of  N.  York,  is  one  of  the  most 
elegant  villages  in  the  union.  It  is  situated  near  the 
west  bank  of  the  Passaic  river,  3  miles  from  its  mouth, 
and  is  laid  out  in  regular  streets,  the  principal  being 
200  feet  wide.  The  public  square,  near  the  centre,  ia 
very  handsome,  and  is  surrounded  by  a  number  of  ele- 
gant private  dwellings.     The  public  buildings  in  the 

H 


I. 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


1.0 


I.I 


^ta.  12.5 


£f   1^    12.0 

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IL25  i  1.4 


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Photogr^hic 

Sciences 
Corporation 


33  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  MSSO 

(716)  873-4503 


'^ 


}' 


I  t 


il  PROM  PHILADELPHIA  TO  NEW-TORK. 

place  are  a  court  house,  jail,  two  banks,  an  academy 
and  six  churches.  The  population  in  1830  was  10,705. 
Having  thus  far  diver^'ed  from  the  usual  route  to  the 
north,  for  the  purpose  of  describing  the  coal  region,  and 
the  most  interesting  natural  and  artificial  objects  con- 
nected therewith,  we  return  to  Philadelphia,  to  resume 
the  regular  excursion. 

FROM  PHILADELPHIA  TO  NEW-YORK. 

The  routes  and  modes  of  conveyance  being  various, 
we  give  a  sketch  of  each,  that  the  traveller  may  make 
such  selection  as  shall  be  most  agreeable.  . 

Steam  Boat  and  Rail  Road  route. 
Since  the  completion  of  the  Camden  and  Amboy  rail 
road  from  Bordentown  to  Amboy,  the  traveller  will  find 
this  a  very  easy,  elegant  and  expeditious  route.  The 
distance  from  Philadelphia  to  New- York  is  85  miles, 
and  the  intermediate  distances  as  follows  : 


By  steam  boat. 

MUes. 
Prom  Philadelphia  to 
Burlington,  N.J...   18 

Bristol,  Penn 1 

Bordentown,  N .  J. . . .     9 


By  rail  road. 

Miles. 

Hightstown, 14 

Amboy, 20 

By  steam  boat. 
New-York, 23 


Burlington,  the  capital  of  the  county  of  the  same 
name,  is  12  miles  below  Trenton  and  18  above  Phila- 
delphia. It  is  drhghtfully  situated,  and  contains  some 
handsome  public  and  private  houses. 

Bristol  is  one  mile  farther,  on  the  oppopite  side  of 
the  Delaware,  in  Bucks  county,  Pennsylvania.  This 
place  contains  several  fine  residences,  and  is  an  attrac- 


CAMDEN  AND  AMBOT  RAIL  ROAD. 


91 


icademy 
i  10,705. 
te  to  the 
^ion,  and 
;cts  con- 
>  resume 


ORK. 

various, 
ay  make 


iboy  rail 
will  find 
e.  The 
}5  miles, 


Miles. 
..    14 
..  20 

..   23 

e  same 
c  Phila- 
ns  some 


side  of 

This 

attrac- 


tive and  interesting  country  village.  Some  of  its  flow- 
er gardens,  which  are  unusually  elegant,  and  located 
on  the  margin  uf  the  river,  add  much  to  the  beauty  of 
its  appearance. 

Borden  TOWN,  9  miles  farther,  and  six  below  Tren- 
ton, is  noted  as  the  late  residence  of  the  Count  de  Sur- 
villiers,  the  ex-king  of  Spain,  whose  elegant  mansion 
was  within  a  few  years  burnt  by  accident,  but  is  now 
rebuilt  with  additional  embellishment  and  magnifi- 
cence. His  villa  commands  a  fine  view  of  the  river. 
The  soil  around  it  is  unproductive ;  but  by  the  aid  of 
culture  and  art,  his  residence  now  exhibits  an  appear- 
ance of  taste  and  munificence  worthy  the  princely  for- 
tune and  dignity  of  its  proprietor. 

At  Bordentown,  the  Camden  and  Ambot  Raul 
Road  is  taken,  which  is  finished  to  South  Amboy ; 
from  whence  a  steam  boat  is  again  taken,  w^hich  lands 
passengers  at  New- York.  The  charter  of  this  road 
was  granted  by  the  legislature  of  New-Jersey  in  1830, 
and  the  travel  between  Bordentown  and  Amboy  com- 
menced in  1832.  Camden,  the  south-western  point  at 
which  the  road  is  to  terminate,  is  a  small  village  on  the 
Delaware,  opposite  Philadelphia,  27  miles  below  Bor- 
dentown, where  the  river  is  about  one  mile  in  breadth. 
South  Amboy  is  seated  at  the  head  of  the  Raritan  Bay, 
61  miles  and  ten  chains  from  Camden,  as  measured  by 
the  course  of  the  rail  road  ;  and  is  about  23  miles,  from 
the  city  of  New-York,  (by  water,)  making  the  whole 
distance  from  Camden  to  IN ew- York  rathe^  less  than 
85  miles. 


r 


H 


.▲MDEN  AND  AMBOT  RAIL  ROAD. 


South  Amboy,  where  the  road  terminates  at  the  eafl- 
tcrn  end,  is  one  of  the  finest  harbors  in  the  United 
States,  accessible  at  all  seasons  for  the  largest  vessels 
from  the  sea  and  from  New- York  ;  so  that  the  commu- 
nication with  Philadelphia  and  foreign  countries  by  this 
route  will  be  uninterrupted.  Possessing,  too,  great  ad- 
vantages for  a  port  of  entry  and  departure,  during  the 
winter  months,  and  having  added  J;o  it  the  facilities  for 
transportation  of  the  cargoes  of  nj|^rchant  traders  by  the 
rail  road,  it  must  become  an  important  point  for  the 
mercantile  operations  of  Philadelphia,  independently  of 
the  advantages  of  its  nearer  connection  with  N.  York. 

The  tolls  and  freight  for  these  cargoes  must  treble  the 
profits  now  derived  from  this  source  and  the  passage  of 
persons  across  the  state  of  New- Jersey.  The  sum  now 
received  for  light  freight  and  the  passage  of  persons,  by 
the  present  conveyances,  is  estimated  to  exceed  $500,- 
000.  The  completion  of  the  whole  of  this  great  work, 
has  been  calculated  as  not  likely  to  exceed  $1,200,000  ; 
so  that  it  is  probable,  when  the  road  gets  fully  into  op- 
eration, a  very  heavy  amount  will  be  annually  return- 
ed to  the  stockholders. 

The  company  have  also  been  allowed  to  take  the 
stock  authorized  to  be  raised  for  cutting  a  canal  from 
the  Delaware  to  the  Raritan  river,  and  have  purchased 
out  all  the  turnpike  companies  from  the  '^ne  to  the  oth- 
er, and  thus  secured  to  themselves  a  monopoly  of  the 
transit  business  of  every  kind,  during  the  continuance 
of  their  charter,  (50  years.) 

It  is  proper,  however,  to  add  that  the  state  has  re- 
served 1000  shares  of  the  stock,  amounting  to  $10,000, 
and  has  received  from  the  company  a  guaranty  for  the 
payment  of  $30,000  annually. 


STEAM  BOAT  AND  STAGE  ROUTE. 


96 


tho  eafl- 
I  United 
t  vessels 
cornmu- 
s  by  this 
^reat  ad- 
iring  the 
litics  for 
rs  by  the 
for  the 
lentlyof 
.  York, 
eble  the 
ssage  of 
iim  now 
sons,  by 
I  $500,- 
t  work, 
)0,000 ; 
nto  op- 
retum- 

ko  the 
from 
ihased 
le  oth- 
of  the 
uance 

s  re- 
1,000, 
»r  the 


A  single  track,  with  occasional  turnouts,  hae  thus 
far  only  been  made  ;  bnt  the  workmanship  and  mate- 
rials are  of  the  best  and  most  durable  kind.  Entire  iron 
rails  are  used,  which  rest  on  stone  blocks  and  sleepers. 

The  carriajres  are  elegant,  and  amoni;  the  best  which 
have  been  constructed  ;  and  a  trip  across  the  road  will 
be  ranked  among  the  novelties  and  pleasures  of  a 
northern  tour. 


Steam  Boat  and  Siage  -Route — 97  miles. 

TABLE  OF  DISTANCES. 

J\Iilcs. 


By  steam  boat. 
From  Philadelphia  to 
Burlington,  N.J...   18 

Bristol,  Penn 1 

Bordentown,  N.J.,..     9 
Trenton, 7 


Maes. 
By  stage. 

Princeton, 11 

Kingston, 3 

Ncw-Brutiswick, ....  12 
By  steam  boat, 

Perth  Amboy, 13 

i^lizabethtowri  Point,  13 

New- York, .  * ,  10 


Burlington,  Bristol  and  Bordentown,  have  al- 
ready 1  ecu  noticed  at  pages  92  and  93, 

Trenton,  the  capital  of  the  state  of  New-Jersey,  is 
situated  on  the  Delaware  river,  35  miles  from  Philadel- 
phia. It  contains  about  6000  inhabitants,  a  state  house, 
two  banks,  and  six  houses  of  public  worship.  At  Tren- 
ton the  steam-boat  navigation  on  the  Delaware  ter- 
minates. The  river  here  forms  a  considerable  r:^id  or 
falls,  near  which  is  an  elevated  bridge,  about  a  quarter 
of  a  mile  long,  neatly  roofed,  and  the  sides  enclosed  to 
secure  it  from  the  weather.  The  distance  between 
Trenton  and  New-Brunswick  is  passed  by  an  excel- 

h2 


I 


PRINCETON. 

lent  line  «.  f  post-coaches,  which  leave  the  former  place 
immediately  on  the  arrival  of  the  boat.  This  route  af- 
fords the  traveller  a  fine  view  of  the  most  fertile  section 
of  the  state  ;  and,  making  all  allowances  for  roads, 
which  are  ordinary,  it  is,  in  other  respects,  by  no  means 
devoid  of  interest. 

It  was  in  this  section  of  New-Jersey,  and  at  the 
gloomiest  period  of  the  contest,  that  some  of  the 
most  important  scenes  of  the  revolution,  and  those 
which  gave  a  point  and  character  to  the  American 
war,  transpired.  It  was  for  a  length  of  time  in  the  pos- 
session of  the  English,  and  was  the  theatre  of  much 
carnage  and  bloodshed.  The  capture  of  a  detachment 
of  English  and  German  troops  in  December,  ]  776,  at 
Trenton,  was  the  first  signal  victory  that  crowned  our 
arms  in  the  revolutionary  contest.  It  cheered  the  droop- 
ing and  depressed  spirits  of  our  little  army,  and  impart- 
ed new  vigor  to  the  cause  of  liberty.  The  retreat  of 
Washington  with  his  troops,  from  Trenton,  considering 
tlic  circumstances  which  surrounded  him,  and  the  se- 
crecy with  which  it  was  accomplished,  may  be  justly 
contemplated  as  one  of  the  most  successful  movements 
of  that  eventful  period.* 


Princeton  is  located  on  an  elevated  piece  of  land 
11  miles  from  Trenton,  15  from  New-Brunswick,  40 
from  Philadelphia,  and  51  from  New- York.  It  over- 
looks an  extensive  prospect,  and  is  a  very  handsome 
Tillage.    It  contains  a  college,  theological  seminary,  a 


♦  A  rail  road  is  now  constructing  between  this  place 
and  Philadelphia. 


MEW-BRUNSWICK — 8TATEN    ISLAND. 


97 


sr  place 
oute  at- 
section 
•  roads, 
)  means 

at  the 

of  the 

1   those 

merican 

the  pos- 

»f  much 

chment 

1776,  at 

ned  our 

I  droop- 

impart- 

Itreat  of 

idering 

the  se- 

justly 

ments 


)f  land 
|ck,  4G 
It  over- 
Idsome 
lary,  a 

place 


! 


presbyterian  church,  and  about  100  dwelling  houses. 
The  college  of  New- Jersey  was  founded  in  1738.  It 
has  a  president,  3  professors,  and  2  tutors. 

The  theological  seminary  was  established  in  1812, 
by  the  general  assembly  of  the  presbyterian  church. 
It  has  3  professors,  a  respectable  library,  i  nd  upwards 
of  100  students. 

In  the  college  yard  are  the  remains  of  the  presidents 
of  the  institution.  Burr,  Edwards,  Davis,  Finley,  With- 
erspoon  and  Smith. 

New-Brunswick  is  the  starting  place  for  the  New- 
York  steam-boats.  In  this  village  is  the  theological 
seminary,  under  the  direction  of  the  synod  of  the  Dutch 
reformed  church.  The  village  also  contains  a  court 
house,  gaol,  a  college  edifice,  and  five  churches.* 

Perth  Ambot  is  1 3  miles  from  New-Brunswick,  23 
south-west  of  New- York,  and  74  north-east  of  Phila- 
delphia.   Its  harbor  is  one  of  the  best  on  the  continent 

Elizabethtown,  13  miles  farther,  in  a  south-west- 
erly direction  from  New- York,  is  pleasantly  situa- 
ted on  a  creek  emptying  into  Staten  Island  Sound.  A 
steam-boat  plies  between  the  point  and  New- York. 

Staten  Island,  constituting  the  county  of  Rich- 
mond, is  14  miles  long  and  8  wide.  It  was  the  resi- 
dence of  the  late  vice-president  Tompkins,  and  con- 
tains several  dehghtful  country  seats. 


*  A  rail  road  is  now  constructing  from  this  place, 
through  Newark  to  Jersey  City,  opposite  New- York, 


J 


9S 


NEW-YORK. 


LAND  nonxE— 94  miles. 
JSIilcs. 


From  Philadelphia  to 

Risiiiir  Sun, 1 

Milrstowii, a 

Taooii y  creek, 2 

.Teiikinfown, 2 

Ahii)<j[t«)ii, 1 

AV 11 1  o  w  ir  re  ).vo, 2 

I  lathoronirh, 2 

Cross  Roads, 4 

Noshaminy  l»ri(li;o,.,  3 

Greenville, 5 

Great  Sprin "if, 3 

I\ew  lIop(\ 2 


Miles. 
Crosg  the  Delaware  to 
:Lambertsville,  N.  J.     1 

New  Mcetinnr, 3 

Old  Rin.iro.s, 3 

Raritan  Hridsjo, 14 

Soniervillo, 4 

Roundhrook, 4 

riaiiilield, G 

Seotch  Plains, 3 

Sprinulield, -6 

CainjHown, 4 

Newark, 3 

New- York, 10 


This  route  may  be  varied  so  as  to  pass  throui^h  New- 
Brunswick  ;  or  it  may  he  continued  up  the  Pennsyl- 
vania side  to  Easton,  and  from  thonce  by  Schooly's 
Mountains  to  New- York.     (See  p.  01.) 

The  price  of  fare  from  Philadelphia  to  New- York  is 
$.{,r)0,  and  the  route  is  usually  performed  in  from  9  to 
12  hours. 

•  On  approachini^  New- York,  the  most  prominent  ob- 
jects that  meet  the  eye,  are  Fort  La  Fayette,  Castle 
Williams,  the  lofty  spires  of  Trinity  and  St.  Paul's 
churches,  and  the  Catholic  cathedral. 

NEW- YORK. 
This  city  is  sitiiated  on  the  point  of  York  Island,  at 
the  confluence  of  the  Hudson  and  East  rivers,  in  lati- 
tude 40.  It  was  tbunded  by  the  Dutch,  in  1615,  under 
the  name  of  New-A.msterdam,  and  was  incorporated 
by  the  British  in  160G.  The  island  on  which  it  stands 
is  15  miles  loner,  and  from  1  to  3  miles  broad.  The  city 
is  situated  on  the  south  part  of  the  island,  and  extends 


2 


',i-r»     L.   Mifflj.    -v 


Miles. 
ire  to 
N.J.     1 

•  •  •  •  .5 
3 
14 
4 
4 
G 
3 
6 
4 
3 


• « •  • 

•  • .  • 

•  •  •  • 

•  •  •  • 

•  • « • 

•  •  •  • 

•  •  •  • 

•  •  •  • 

•  •  •  • 

•  •  •  • 


10 


s^h  New- 
Pen  nsyl- 
Jchooly'a 

York  i3 
rom  9  to 

lont  ob- 
Castle 
Paul's 


ind,  at 

tn  lati- 

under 

)rated 

itands 

|e  city 

Itends 


REW-TORK. 


99 


along  the  Hudson  about  2  miles,  and  from  the  Battery 
along  East  river  nearly  4  miles.  The  early  settlements 
were  commenced  at  and  near  the  Battery,  from  which 
jffreets  were  extended  without  reference  to  order  or 
regularity  ;  and  this  accounts  for  the  seeming  want  of 
taste  in  laying  out  the  streets  towards  the  docks  and 
harbor. 

The  Battery  is  situated  at  the  south-west  point  of 
the  city,  opposite  to  Governor's  island.  It  is  hand- 
somely laid  out  into  gravel  walks,  and  tastefully  deco- 
rated with  shrubbery  and  trees.  It  is  much  frequent- 
ed by  the  citizens  in  the  warm  season,  as  well  for  the 
purpose  of  partaking  of  tl  o  refreshing  sea  breeze,  as 
for  enjoying  the  prospect,  which,  from  this  place,  in- 
cludes the  harbor  with  its  various  shipping,  Governor's 
island,  Bedlow's  island,  and  EUis'  island,  on  each  of 
which  are  military  stations,  the  shores  of  New-Jersey 
and  Long  Island,  with  the  flourishing  town  of  Brook- 
lyn, and  the  numerous  country  seats  in  its  vicinity. 

Castle  Garden,  connected  with  the  battery  by  a 
bridge,  is  much  frequented  during  the  summer  even- 
ings. It  has  a  fine  promenade,  and  is  often  rendered 
attractive  by  a  display  of  fire  works  from  its  enclosure, 
and  other  amusements. 

Broadway,  the  most  splendid  street  in  the  city,  runs 
through  the  centre  and  extends  3  miles  in  length  and 
about  80  feet  in  width.  It  is  the  great  and  fashionable 
resort  for  citizens  and  strangers,  and  is  much  crowded 
during  pleasant  weather.  In  this  avenue  are  Grace, 
Trinity  and  St.  Paul's  churches,  the  Adelphi  Hotel, 
City  Hotel,  National  Hotel,  Franklin  House,  Amen- 


r 


100 


NEW-TORK. 


can  Hotel,  Washinj^on  Hall,  Masonic  Hall,  and  a  va- 
riety of  shops  with  ele^ifant  and  extensive  assortments 
ol*  merchandize  of  every  doscription. 

Opposite  Trinity  church,  Wall-street  opens,  which 
contains  the  Exchange,  most  of  the  banks,  together 
with  the  principal  part  of  the  brokers'  and  insurance  of- 
fices. 

On  passing  up  Broadway  still  farther,  is  Cedar  and 
Courtlandt  streets,  both  of  which  lead  to  the  Hudson 
river,  where  the  steam-boats  start  for  Albany,  New- 
port, Providence  and  Boston.  At  the  foot  of  Courtlandt- 
street  is  the  ferry  to  Jersey  city.  A  little  further  up  is 
Fulton-street,  on  the  corner  of  which  and  Broadway 
stands  St.  Paul's  church.  Fulton-street  leads  to  the 
East  river ;  along  the  docks  of  which  are  the  steam- 
boats for  Bridgeport,  Saybrook,  Hartford,  New-Lon- 
don, Norwich  and  New-Haven.  At  the  foot  of  Barclay 
street,  extending  to  the  Hudson  river  west  of  the  Park, 
the  Philadelphia  steam-boats  connected  with  the  rail 
road  are  located  ;  also  a  part  of  the  Albany  boats,  and 
the  Hoboken  ferry  boats. 

Above  St.  Paul's  church  is  the  Park  and  City  Hall, 
situated  in  the  centre  of  the  city,  the  former  containing 
about  11  acres,  which  are  ornamented  with  much  taste, 
and  enclosed  by  a  substantial  iron  railing.  It  furnish- 
es a  cool  and  fashionable  resort  for  men  of  business  and 
pleasure,  after  the  fatigue  and  heat  of  a  summer's  day. 
On  the  right  is  the  Park  Thoatre,  and  on  the  left  Park 
Place,  on  the  west  side  of  which  is  Columbia  College. 
Tho  next  street  above  Park  Place  is  Murray,  which 
leads  to  the  Hoboken  ferry. 

Of  the  public  buildings,  the  most  prominent  and  im- 
portant is  the 


KKW-TORK. 


101 


CiTT  Hall,  the  front  of  which  is  built  of  white  mar- 
ble. It  is  216  feet  long,  105  feet  broad,  and,  including 
the  attic  story,  65  feet  liigh.  The  rooms  for  holding  tho 
different  courts  of  law  are  fitted  up  in  a  rich  and  ex- 
pensive style.  The  room  for  holdinjr  tho  mayor's  court 
contains  portraits  of  Washin^jton,  of  the  different  gov- 
ernors of  the  state,  and  many  of  the  most  celebrated 
commanders  of  the  army  and  navy  of  the  United  States, 
The  foundation  stone  of  this  building  was  laid  in  1S03, 
and  the  whole  finished  in  1812,  at  an  expenso  of  $500,- 
000.  It  is  one  of  the  most  elegant  edifices  in  America, 
and  reflects  great  credit  on  the  inhabitants  for  their 
munificence  and  taste. 

The  Merchant's  Exchange  in  Wall-street,  is  also 
a  superb  structure  of  white  marble.  Its  front  on  Wall- 
street  is  114  feet,  and  its  depth,  extending  to  Garden- 
street,  150  feet.  The  main  body  of  the  building  is  two 
stories  high,  besides  the  basement  and  an  attic.  A- 
bout  two  thirds  of  the  basement  is  occupied  for  the 
post-office,  including  a  spacious  corridor  for  the  con- 
venience of  persons  visiting  the  office,  with  entrances 
leading  thereto  from  Wall  and  Exchange  streets.  The 
portico  of  the  building,  to  which  a  flight  of  marble  steps 
ascends,  is  ornamented  with  Ionic  columns  27  feet 
high.  In  the  centre  is  the  Exchange,  of  an  oval  form, 
85  feet  long,  55  feet  wide  and  45  feet  high,  surmounted 
with  a  dome,  from  which  hght  is  reflected.  The  whole 
is  imposing,  and  affords  a  delightful  pror/ienade.  From 
the  Exchange  are  doors  and  passages  leading  to  a  com- 
mercial reading  room  and  numerous  newspaper  and 
other  offices  within  the  edifice.  From  the  attic  story, 
a  flight  of  stairs  leads  to  a  telegraphic  room  in  the  cupalo, 


r 


■k 


103 


NEW-TORK. 


1; 


where  signals  are  made,  and  returned  from  the  tele- 
graph at  the  Narrows,  7J  miles  distant.  The  height  of 
the  cupalo  above  the  attic  story  is  60  feet.  The  cost  of 
this  building,  including  the  ground,  was  $230,000.  It 
was  commenced  in  1824,  and  completed  in  3  years 
thereafter. 

The  United  States  Branch  Bank,  in  "Wall-street, 

is  an  elegant  white  marble  building,  60  feet  in  front. 

The  lot  on  which  it  was  erected  cost  $40,000. 

Two  doors  west  of  this  is  the  Custom-House;  on  which 

scite  a  new  and  splendid  building  is  soon  to  be  erected. 

Trinity  Church,  in  Broadway,  at  the  head  of  Wall 
street,  from  its  antique  appearance,  generally  attracts 
the  notice  of  strangers.  The  first  church  on  this  spot 
was  erected  in  1696.  Originally  small,  it  was  enlarged 
in  1737  ;  but  during  the  fire  which  destroyed  the  west 
part  of  the  city  in  1776,  while  the  British  troops  were  in 
possession,  it  was  destroyed,  and  not  re-built  till  1788. 
The  present  building  is  of  stone,  in  Gothic  style,  and 
much  like  the  old  one,  except  a  diminution  in  size,  and 
has  a  steeple  198  feet  high.  It  contains  a  chime  of 
bells,  the  only  set  in  the  city,  and  an  excellent  organ. 

The  cemetery  surrounding  it  is  ancient,  and  is  enclos- 
ed by  a  substantial  and  costly  iron  railing.  No  inter- 
ments have  taken  place  in  this  cemetery  for  some  years, 
owing  to  a  law  prohibiting  sepulture  within  the  popu- 
lous parts  of  the  city  ;  but  it  has  been  ascertained  by 
authentic  records  kept,  that  more  than  one  hundred  and 
sixty  thousand  bodies  have  been  here  deposited,  exclu- 
sive of  the  7  years  of  the  revolutionary  war,  when  no 
records  were  kept.  Among  the  illustrious  dead  who 
repose  in  this  hallowed  spot  are  the  remains  of  Gen. 
Hamilton  and  Capt.  Lawrence.    The  monument  over 


)m  the  tele- 
he  height  of 

The  cost  of 
i230,000.    It 

in  3  years 

Wall-street, 
2et  in  front. 
)0. 

se;  on  which 
)  be  erected. 
eadofWall 
ally  attracts 
on  this  spot 
/as  enlarged 
ed  the  west 
)ops  were  in 
lilt  till  1788. 
c  style,  and 
in  size,  and 
a  chime  of 
nt  organ, 
d  is  enclos- 
No  inter- 
me  years, 
the  popu- 
tained  by 
ndred  and 
;ed,  exclu- 
,  when  no 
dead  who 
s  of  Gen. 
ent  over 


KEW-TORK. 


103 


the  graTe  of  the  former  contains  the  following  inscrip- 
tion: 

"To  the  memory  of  Alexander  Hamilton,  the 
corporation  of  Trinity  church  has  erected  this  monu- 
ment in  testimony  of  their  respect  for  the  patriot  of  in- 
corruptible integrity,  the  soldier  of  approved  valor,  the 
statesman  of  consummate  wisdom,  whose  talents  and 
whose  virtues  will  be  admired  by  grateful  posterity 
long  after  this  marble  shall  have  mouldered  into  dust. 
He  died  July  2,  1804,  aged  47." 

The  monument  to  the  memory  of  Capt.  Lawrence, 
who  was  killed  during  the  last  war  in  an  engagement 
between  the  U.  S.  frigate  Chesapeake,  which  he  com- 
manded, and  the  British  frigate  Shannon,  represents  a 
broken  column,  as  emblematical  of  his  premature  death. 
It  was  erected  at  the  expense  of  the  corporation. 

Within  the  church,  in  rear  of  the  altar,  and  directly 
facing  the  entrance  of  the  asile,  is  a  beautiful  and  costly 
monument,  erected  to  the  memory  of  the  distinguished 
and  lamented  Bishop  Hobart.  The  design  is  allegori- 
cal, and  highly  expressive  of  the  poetry  of  the  art. 
The  bishop  is  represented  in  his  last  moments,  with  his 
eyes  lifted  in  confiding  earnestness  to  heaven,  which 
appears,  from  the  peculiarity  of  the  light,  to  be  already 
opening  its  golden  g-ates  to  receive  his  departing  spirit. 
A  female  form,  representing  Religion,  supports  the 
head  of  the  dying  prelate  with  her  left  arm,  while  the 
right  extended,  points  upwards  to  the  cross,  surrounded 
with  rays  of  celestial,  spiritual  light.  The  likeness  is 
easily  recognized,  and  the  attitude  of  the  bishop,  over 
whose  sinking  frame  the  lassitude  of  death  is  stealing, 
and  upon  whose  countenance  the  holy  and  seraphic  joy 


r 


•ii 


loi 


NEW-YORK. 


of  the  christian  is  contending  with  the  mortal  agony  of 
the  man,  claims  the  warmest  commendation  of  the  art- 
ist's skill.     The  inscription  is  as  follows  :»   "  Bereath 
this  chancel  rest  the  mortal  remains  of  John  Henry 
HoBART,  Rector  of  Trinity  church  in  this  city,  bishop 
of  the  protestant  episcopal  church  in  the  state  of  New- 
York.     Born  in  Philadelphia  September  14th,  1775  ; 
died  during  a  visitation  to  the  western  parts  of  his  dio- 
cese in  Auburn,  12th  September,  1830.     The  vestry, 
in  behalf  of  the  associated  congregations  of  Trinity 
church,  have  caused  this  monument  to  be  erected  in 
memory  of  the  public   services,   private  virtues,   and 
christian  graces  of  their  bi;lovcd  and  lamented  pastor; 
in  testimony  of  their  respect  for  the  wisdom,  energy 
and  piety  of  their  revered  diocesan  ;  in  honor  of  the 
faithful  and  valiant  soldier  of  Christ,  who  on  all  occa- 
sions stood  forth  the  able  and  intrepid  champion  of  the 
church  of  God." 

St.  Paul's  Chapel  is  a  superb  structure  further  up 
Broadway,  near  the  Park.  It  contains  a  portico  of  the 
Ionic  order,  consisting  of  four  fluted  pillars  of  brown 
stone,  supporting  a  pediment,  with  a  niche  in  the  cen- 
tre containing  a  statue  of  St.  Paul.  Under  the  portico 
is  a  handsome  monument  erected  by  order  of  congress 
to  the  memory  of  Gen.  Montgomery,  who  fell  at  the 
storming  of  Gtuebec  in  1775,  and  whose  remains  were 
brought  to  New- York  and  interred  beneath  the  monu- 
ment in  1820.  The  spire  of  this  church  is  234  feet 
liigh ;  and  the  whole  building  is  esteemed  one  of  the 
best  specimens  of  architecture  in  the  city.  In  the  church 
yard  adjoining  is  an  elegant  monument,  recently  erected 
to  the  memory  of  Thomas  Addis  Emmet,  an  eminent 


KEW-YORK. 


105 


gony  of 
the  art- 
Bereath 
Henrt 
,  bishop 
of  Ncw- 
i,  1775; 
"his  dio- 
5  vestry, 
f  Trinity 
'ectcd  in 
jes,   and 
i  pastor ; 
I,  energfy 
or  of  the 
all  occa- 
3n  of  the 


counsellor  at  law,  and  brother  of  the  unfortunate  Irish 
orator,  Robert  Emnict.  The  phnth  of  the  monument  is 
one  entire  block,  7  feet  square  and  12  inches  thick. 
Tlie  Egyptian  obelisk,  standing  on  its  base,  is  also  in  a 
single  piece,  and  is  rising  of  thirty-two  feet  high.  The 
face  towards  Broadway  is  embellished  with  the  Ameri- 
can eagle,  sholt.ering  a  harp  unstrung,  with  a  medallion 
likeness  of  Emmet,  and  with  two  clasped  hands,  having 
stars  around  one  wrist  and  shamrocks  around  the  other. 
On  the  face  fronting  Broadway  is  an  English  ;  on  that 
towards  St.  Paul's  church,  a  Latin  ;  and  on  that  to- 
wards Fulton  street,  an  Irish'inscription. 

St.  John's  Chapel,  in  Varick  street,  opposite  Hud- 
eon  Square,  is  an  elegant  edifice,  and  the  most  expen- 
sive church  in  the  city,  having  cost  more  than  $200,- 
000.     Its  spire  is  2 10  feet  in  height. 

St.  Patrick's  Cathedral,  a  Roman  Catholic  church, 
in  Mott  street,  is  the  largest  religious  edifice'in  New- 
York.  It  is  built  of  stone,  is  1 20  feet  long,  80  feet  wide, 
and  is  a  conspicuous  object  in  approaching  the  city 
from  the  east. 

There  are  nearly  100  other  churches  in  the  city,  ma- 
ny of  which  were  erected  at  a  very  considerable  ex- 
pense, and  are  an  ornament  to  the  sections  of  the  city 
in  which  they  stand. 

Columbia  College,  above  the  City  Hall,  was  char- 
tered in  1750,  under  the  name  of  King's  College.  The 
edifice  and  grounds  attached  are  extensive,  and  are  ad- 
vantageously and  handsomely  located.  The  college 
contains  a  chapel,  lecture  rooms,  hall,  library,  museum, 
ftnd  an  extensive  philosophical  and  astronomical  appa- 


108 


NEW-YORK. 


I'll    ^i' 


i 


ratus.  The  Hon.  William  A.  DtrER,  a  gentleman  of 
distinguished  talents  and  learning,  presides  over  the  in- 
stitution. 

The  New- York  Society  Library,  in  Nassau  street, 
was  commenced  in  1740,  and  at  the  commencement  of 
the  revolution  contained  3000  volumes,  which  were  de- 
stroyed or  taken  away  by  the  British  troops.  It  was 
re-established  in  1789,  and  now  consists  of  about  20,- 
000  volumes,  many  of  which  are  very  rare  and  valua- 
ble. 

The  Atheneum,  Broadway,  corner  of  Pine  street^ 
contains  a  reading  room,  wliich  is  open  daily,  except 
Sundays. 

The  New- York  Institution  is  in  the  rear  of  tha 
City  Hall.  Its  apartments  are  occupied  by  the  Litera- 
ry and  Philosophical  Society,  the  Historical  Society, 
the  American  Academy  of  Fine  Arts,  the  Lyceum  of 
National  History,  the  American  Museum,  and  the  Asy- 
lum for  the  Deaf  and  Dumb.  The  Historical  Society 
has  a  library  of  10,000  volumes,  embracing  many  valu- 
able works. 

Near  the  institution  are  the  Savings  Bank  and  Pan- 
orama Rotundo  ;  and  a  little  further  up  Broadway,  the 
New- York  Hospital.  The  annual  expenditure  in  this 
institution  is  about  $40,000,  and  the  annual  number  of 
patients  from  140  to  180. 

The  Park  Theatre  is  a  spacious  edifice,  adjoining 
the  Park.  It  was  originally  built  in  1 798,  at  an  expense 
of  $179,000,  was  destroyed  by  fire  in  1820,  and  re-built 
the  following  year.    It  is  80  feet  long,  165  deep,  and  55 


tfEW-TORR. 


\X)i 


high,  and  has  generally  been  more  hberally  patronized 
than  any  other  theatre  in  the  city. 

The  American  Theatre,  in  the  Bowery,  displays 
much  architectural  beauty,  and  among  the  modem  or- 
naments of  the  city,  stands  pre-eminent.  It  has  a  front 
of  75  feet,  is  1 75  feet  deep,  and  50  feet  high.  It  enjoys 
a  handsome  patronage. 

Besides  these  places  of  amusement,  there  is  a  thea- 
tre at  Richmond  Hill,  and  a  circus  in  Broadway,  be- 
tween Canal  and  Grand  streets. 


PRINCIPAL  HOTELS. 

The  A  DELPHI  Hotel,  corner  of  Beaver  street  and 
Broadway,  kept  by  Mr.  Charles  A.  Law,  is  an  elegant 
establishment,  built  of  brick  and  stuccoed.  Its  situa- 
tion is  in  a  most  delightful  part  of  the  city,  fronting  the 
Bowling  Green,  and  in  full  view  of  the  Battery  and 
harbor.  It  is  six  stories  high,  and  possesses  spacious 
and  airy  accommodations. 

The  Atlantic  Hotel,  kept  by  Mr.  M'Niel  Sey- 
mour, No.  5,  Broadway,  is  a  first  rate  establishment, 
elegantly  furnished,  and  well  patronized. 

The  Mansion  House,  (Bunker's,)  39  Broadway,  is  a 
commodious  establishment,  pleasantly  located,  and  en- 
joys a  handsome  patronage  of  genteel  company. 

The  City  Hotel,  a  few  doors  north  of  Trinity  church 
in  Broadway,  kept  by  Mr.  Jennings,  is  an  old  and  high- 
ly respectable  establishment,  and  one  of  the  most  ex- 
tensive in  the  city,  containing  more  than  100  parlors 
and  lodging  rooms,  (many  of  them  designed  for  private 
famiUes)  besides  an  assembly  room,  principally  used 

i2 


K- 


108 


NEW'TORR. 


'i 


! 


for  concerts.  The  rooms  are  furnished  in  the  best 
style,  and  the  house,  from  its  central  location  and  good 
accommodations,  has  always  enjoyed  an  extensive  pat- 


ronage. 


The  National  Hotel,  kept  by  Mr.  John  Niblo, 
nearly  opposite  the  City  Hotel,  is  a  large  and  excellent 
house,  well  furnished,  and  well  supported. 

The  Congress  Hall,  kept  by  Mr.  Charles  H.  Webb, 
No.  144,  Broadway,  is  well  located,  and  affords  the  best 
of  accommodations. 

Franklin  Housk,  Broadway,  corner  of  Dey  street, 
kept  by  Mr.  Newton  Hayes,  though''  not  so  extensive 
as  some  of  the  other  establishments,  is  pleasantly  loca- 
ted, furnished  in  good  style,  and  enjoys  a  handsome 
patronage. 

The  American  Hotel,  kept  by  Mr.  Boardman,  is 
delightfully  yituated,  fronting  the  Park^'in'f Broadway, 
and  is  among  the  most  favored  establishments  in  the 
city.  It  is  five  stories  high,  and  extends  on  Barclay 
street  to  the  college  of  Physicians  and  Surgeons.  Its 
public  and  private  parlors  and  lodging  rooms,  which 
are  numerous,  are  furnished  in  the  best  style,  and  it  is 
extensively  patronized  by  a  fashionable  and  respecta- 
ble company. 

The  Washington  Hall  is  another  extensive  estab- 
lishment in  Broadway,  corner  of  Reed  street,  hand- 
somely fitted  up,  and  possessing  excellent  accommoda- 
tions, y 

Holt's  Hotel,  forming  an  allinement  on  three 
streets,  the  one  part  in  Water,  another  in  Pearl,  and  its 
eastern  limit  facing  on  Fulton  street,  and  occupying  the 


NEW-YORK. 


109 


n  the  best 
I  and  good 
^nsive  pat- 

•hn  Niblo, 
I  excellent 


H.  Webb, 
Is  the  best 

>ey  street, 
extensive 
ntly  loca- 
landsome 

rdman,  is 
roadway, 
Its  in  the 
Barclay 
)ns.  Its 
which 
and  it  is 
3specta- 

estab- 
hand- 
imoda- 

three 
ind  its 
ngthe 


entire  block,  is  one  of  the  most  extensive  and  expen- 
sive establishments  of  the  kind  in  the  United  States. 
It  is  built  of  white  marble,  and  is  six  stories  high,  ex- 
clusive of  the  basement,  having  an  attic  of  ample  di- 
mensions,  and  surmounted  by  a  lofty  quadrangular 
lower,  around  which  there  is  an  extensive  and  pleasant 
promenade.     Above  this  there  is  a  spacious  rotiindo, 
jGrom  whose  exalted  summit  a  view  is  obtained  of  near- 
ly the  whole  city,  the  East  river,  Brooklyn,  part  of  Long- 
Island,  the  entire  upper  bay  and  harbor,  Staten  Island, 
a  very  considerable  extent  of  the  Hudson  river  and  the 
Jersey  shore.     In  the  basement  story,  a  steam  engine 
of  12  horse  power  is  plj^ccd,  by  means  of  which  ma- 
chinery is  put  in  motion  which  carries  up  through  a 
perpendicular  casement  the  cooked  provision  for  the 
guests,  which,  by  this  means,  is  conveyed  almost  to  the 
side  of  the  table  where  it  is  to  be  consumed.     The  sec- 
ond floor  is  occupied  by  drawing  and  sitting  rooms,  the 
large  dining  room  being  100  feet  in  length  and  28  in 
breadth,  well  supplied  with  light  from  numerous  win- 
dows, and  elegantly  furnished.     The  third  floor,  con- 
taining*parlor,  dining,  retiring  and  receiving  rooms,  is 
exclusively  appropriated  to  the  accommodation  of  gen- 
tlemen having  ladies  and  families.     The  other  three 
stories  and  the  attic,  are  judiciously  divided  into  sitting 
and  lodging  rooms,  with  parlors,  all  of  which  are  fur- 
nished in  a  style  of  richness  and  neatness,  calculated  to 
afford  comfort  and  a  home  to  every  inmate.     On  the 
side  and  in  the  centre  of  the  main  stairway,  the  dumb 
waiters  rise,  by  the  aid  of  the  steam-engine  m  the  base- 
ment, to  the  tower,  and  by  the  active  power  of  this  en- 
gine, and  the  use  of  forcing  pumps,  each  story  is  at  all 


' 


} 


\ 


i 


I 


no 


NEW-TORK. 


times  furnished  with  cold  and  hot  water  for  the  bathtf 
in  the  attic,  and  for  ordinary  uses  in  the  several  rooms. 
The  house  from  the  base  to  the  foot  of  the  tower  is  100 
feet  hisrh,  and  140  to  the  summit.  There  are  165 
rooms,  25  of  which  are  parlors,  125  are  lodging  rooms, 
and  the  residue  appropriated  to  other  useful  purposes. 

Besides  the  foregoing  public  establishments,  are 
Tammany  Hall,  (Lovejoy's,)  Park  Row,  corner  of 
Frankfort  street ;  United  States  Hotel,  Horatio 
Blake,  No.  178,  Pearl  street ;  Clinton  Hall,  oppo- 
site the  Park,  in  Beekman  street ;  Merchant's  Ho- 
tel, by  Messrs.  Thurston  &  Co.  No.  108,  Broad  street, 
and  several  others  of  respectability,  an  enumeration  of 
which  will  not  be  deemed  necessary  in  this  work. 

Private  Boarding  Houses.  The  following  are 
among  the  genteel  and  respectable  private  boarding 
houses  in  Broadway,  many  of  which  are  extensive,  and 
fitted  up  in  a  style  not  inferior  to  the  best  hotels  :  Mrs.- 
Baker's,  No.  13;  Mrs.  Wood's,  No.  24 ;  Mrs.  Chap- 
man's No.  33  ;  ,  No.  35  ;  Street's,  No.  36  ;  Mrs. 

W.  C.  Barker's,  No.  40  ;  Mrs.  Keese's,  No.  52  ;  Pear- 
cy's,  No.  56  ;  Mrs.  Miller's,  No.  57  ;  Mrs.  Helmes', 
No.  58  ;  Mrs.  Mann's,  No.  61  ;    Mrs.  Southart's,  No. 

65  ;  ,  No.  66  ;  Mrs.  Waldron's,  No.  126  j  Miss 

Wade's,  No.  110. 

The  prices  at  these  houses  vary  from  $1  to  $2  per 
day,  and  from  $5  to  ^10  per  week. 

In  point  of  population,  this  city  is  the  first  in  the 
United  States,  it  having  contained  in  1830,  213,470 
inhabitants,  and  in  respect  of  trade  it  is  now  and 
will  probably  continue  the  first  commercial  metropolis 


NKW-TOHK. 


Ill 


in  America.  Though  it  cannot  vie  with  Philadelphia, 
in  point  of  beauty  and  regularity,  New- York  exhibits 
an  air  of  novelty  and  grandeur  very  imposing  to  a 
stranger.  Its  ever  bustling  streets  and  crowded 
wharves,  indicate  an  uncommon  spirit  of  commercial 
enterprize.  Its  local  situation  embraces  every  advan- 
tage for  commerce  ;  and  the  canals,  by  opening  an 
easy  communication  be;  -vecn  the  fertile  regions  of  the 
west  and  north  and  the  city  of  New- York,  have  pro- 
duced an  astonishing  cliangc  in  its  growth  and  prosper- 
ity. At  no  very  distant  period,  New- York,  with  all  its 
natural  and  artificial  advantages,  will  probably  become 
the  greatest  commercial  metropolis  in  the  world. 

Packets. — The  old  line  of  London  packets  sail 
from  New- York  on  the  1st,  10th  and  20th,  and  from 
London  on  the  7th,  17th  and  27th  of  each  month. 

The  old  line  of  Liverpool  packets  sail  from  New- 
York  and  from  Liverpool  on  the  1st  and  16th  of  each 
month. 

Fish,  Grinnell  and  Go's.  Liverpool  packets  leave 
New- York  on  the  8th,  and  Liverpool  on  the  24th  of 
each  month  in  the  year. 

Wood  and  Trimble's  packets  sail  from  New- York 
on  the  2 1th,  and  from  Liverpool  on  8th  of  each  month 
in  the  year. 

M'Omber's  Liverpool  packets  sail  from  New-Yojk 
and  Liverpool  on  the  1st  and  15th  of  each  month. 

Packets  for  Havre,  leave  New- York  on  the  1st,  8th, 
IGtli  and  24th  of  each  month,  and  Havre  on  the  same 
days  during  the  year. 

New-Orleans  packets  sail  from  New- York  on  the 
5th,  8th,  13th,  20th,  22d  and  28th,  and  from  New-Or- 


112 


NEW-YORK. 


\  ' 


I 


leans  on  the  1st,  5th,  13th,  15th,  20th  and  28th  of  each 
month. 

The  elegant  steam  packet  shi'-  /id  Brown,  leave* 
New- York,  once  a  fortnight  for  v.  .larieston,  S.  C. 

PUBLIC  COACHES. 

Strangers  visiting  New- York  are  liable  to  suffer  from 
exorbitant  exactions  for  coach  hire.  I'o  guard  against 
this,  the  corporation  have  licenced  an  adequate  num- 
ber of  hackman,  who  may  be  found  at  several  conven- 
ient stands  in  the  city,  each  coach  being  numbered. 
The  rules  and  regulations  to  which  they  are  subjected, 
can  be  found  in  the  "Picture  of  New-York  and  Stran- 
ger's Guide,"  pubUshed  by  Mr.  Goodrich,  124  Broadway. 

EXCURSIONS. 

Among  the  numerous  places  of  fashionable  resort  in 
the  vicinity  of  New- York,  are  Governor's,  Bedlow's 
and  Staten  Islands,  within  the  harbor ;  Orange  Springs* 
near  Newark,  Patterson,  the  Pasaic  Falls,  Hoboken 
and  Weehawk,  Schooly's  Mountain,  and  Long  Branch, 
in  New- Jersey,  on  the  west  ;  Manhattan  Island,  on  the 
north  ;  and  the  tour  of  Long  Island  on  the  east. 

Governor's  and  Bedloio's  Islands  are  usually  approach- 
ed only  in  row  boats,  and  are  less  frequented  on  that 
accoimt. 

Staten  Island,  south  of  the  city,  was  noticed  at  page  97. 

In  an  excursion  to  Patterson  and  to  the  Passaic  Falls, 
the  Patterson  rail  road,  which  commences  opposite 
New- York,  will  soon  be  in  readiness  for  the  convey- 
ance of  passengers  the  whole  distance.  The  company 
for  constructing  the  road  was  incorporated  in  January, 


NEW-YORK. 


]!9 


1  of  each 

n,  leavei 
C. 


iffer  from 
d  as^ainst 
late  num- 
1  conven- 
LUinbered. 
subjected, 
nd  Stran- 
Jroadway. 


resort  in 
Bedlow's 

Springs* 
Hoboken 

Branch, 

d,  on  the 
1st. 

pproach- 
on  that 

[page  97. 
lie  FallSy 

[opposite 

convey- 

fompany 

Tanuary, 


1831,  and  thfi  western  section  was  completed  and  car- 
riages placed  thereon  the  following  year.  The  whole 
length  of  the  road  is  about  15  miles,  in  a  north-westerly 
direction  from  New- York,  and  when  completed,  will 
afford  an  easy  conveyance  to  the  Passaic  Falls  and  the 
thriving  manufacturing  village  in  their  vicinity.  The 
perpendicular  pitch  is  70  feet  into  a  narrow  and  rocky 
chasm.  The  scenery  is  wild  and  imposing ;  and  the 
falls  are  among  the  greatest  natural  curiosities  of  this 
country.  The  Morris  canal,  noticed  at  page  90,  passes 
near' them. 

Hoboken  and  Weehawk  arc  on  the  west  side  of  the 
Hudson  river,  opposite  the  northern  parts  of  New- 
York,  near  which  is  t'le  Hoboken  duelling  ground, 
which  cannot  be  easily  approached,  except  in  a  boat. 
A  monument  was  here  erected  some  years  since  to  the 
memory  of  Gen.  Hamilton  :  but  it  has  since  been  re- 
moved. 

Schooly^s  Mountain^  50  miles  west  of  New- York,  was 
notice  at  page  91. 

Long  Branchj  is  30  miles  south  of  New- York,  on  the 
eastern  shore  of  New-Jersey,  and  on  the  immediate 
bank  of  the  Atlantic  ocean,  an  extensive  view  of  which 
is  here  obtained.  A  bathing  establishment  is  erected, 
and  the  bank,  which  is  elevated  to  a  height  of  30  or 
40  feet  for  several  miles,  affords  a  beautiful  promenade. 
Sandy  Hook  and  Neversink  can  be  visited  on  this 
route,  the  heights  of  the  latter  affording  an  extensive 
view  of  the  marine  coast. 

The  Harlaem  Rail  Road  was  originally  designed 
to  commence  at  23d  street,  in  the  northern  part  of  the 
city  of  New- York,  and  pass  through  the  centre  of  the 


114 


MANHATTAN    ISLAND. 


Fourth  or  Broadway  avenuo  to  Harlacm  river,  at  a 
point  about  300  yards  abovo  the  bridge,  making  the 
length  of  the  road  about  5  miles.  Subsequently,  how- 
ever, an  amendment  of  the  charter  was  obtained,  and 
permission  by  the  corporation  granted,  to  extend  the 
road  southerly  to  Prince  street  ;  one  track  passing 
through  the  Fourth  Avenue,  Union  Place,  Blooming- 
dale  road,  and  Broadway,  and  another  through  the 
Bowery.  The  road  is  therefore  about  eight  miles  long. 
Il  was  commenced,  aiiu  so  far  finished  in  1832,  that 
passenger  carriages  were  placed  on  a  part  of  the  road. 
The  whole  will  be  completed  the  present  year  (1833,) 
an  will  afford  an  additional  and  important  excursion  to 
parties  of  pleasure.  It  is  believed,  also,  that  by  provid- 
ing an  easy  and  expeditious  mode  of  intercourse  between 
the  city  and  Harlaem,  numerous  merchants  and  other 
men  of  business  will  be  induced  to  select  the  latter  as  a 
place  of  resi  enee.  A  morning  and  evening  ride  to 
and  from  the  city,  would  be  a  mere  pastime,  without 
interfering  with  the  usual  business  hours  ;  and  would 
moreover  prove  a  healtliful  and  invigorating  exercise. 

Manhattan  Island,  on  which  New- York  is  located,  is 
1 5  miles  long,  and  on  an  average  one  and  a  half  broad  ; 
the  Hudson  river  bounding  it  on  the  west,  the  Harlaem 
river  on  the  north,  the  East  river  on  the  east,  and  the 
bay  on  the  south.  A  tour  of  the  island  can  be  per- 
formed in  a  few  hours,  and  will  be  found  to  be  highly 
diversified  and  interesting.  Passing  up  on  the  west 
side,  the  Asylum  for  the  Insane,  on  very  elevated  ground 
about  7  miles  from  the  city,  the  heights  of  Fort  Wash- 
ington, Harlaem  and  Kingsbridge,  are  visited  ;  and  in 


BURL    GATE. 


115 


returning  on  the  cast  side,  Hurl  Gate,  the  Alms-Houie 
kid  House  of  Refuge. 

Hurl  Gate  is  a  narrow  and  apparently  a  dangerous 
strait  in  the  East  river,  in  Vvhich,  at  low  water,  there 
are  numerous  whirlpools  or  currents,  occasioned  by 
huge  masses  of  rock  projecting  in  various  places,  giv- 
ing to  the  river  only  a  very  contracted  passage.  At 
high  water,  these  masst^s  arc  more  or  less  concealed, 
and  the  current  is  in  a  degree  unruffled.  Losses  of 
vessels  were  formerly  experienced  here  ;  but  none  have 
been  known  in  some  years.  To  avoid  the  dangers, 
however,  incident  to  the  navigation,  a  project  b?^s  been 
formed  of  opening  a  ship  canal  between  Pot  and  Hal- 
let's  Coves.  A  survey  of  the  proposed  route  has  been 
made,  and  the  result  of  the  examination  is,  that  the 
length  of  the  canal,  to  secure  a  sufficient  depth  of  wa- 
ter in  the  coves,  will  be  2439  running  feet,  viz.  470  of 
excavation  below  high  water,  1369  of  high  upland  with 
indication  of  rock,  and  600  of  salt  marsh.  As  the 
tide  rises  and  falls  in  Hallet's  Cove  several  minutes 
sooner  than  in  the  Pot,  (Hurl  Gate,)  it  would  be  ne- 
cessary to  have  two  pairs  of  gates  at  each  extremity. 
A  draw-bridge  would  also  be  necessary,  to  accommo- 
date the  ferry  road  which  communicates  from  the  Point 
at  Hallet's  Cove  with  the  New- York  shore,  at  the  foot 
of  87th-street.  The  maximum  cost  is  rated  al  ^162,- 
152  for  the  entire  completion  of  a  canal  137  feet  in 
width  at  high  water  on  the  surface,  80  at  bottom,  and 
28  in  depth,  which  would  be  sufficiently  capacious  for  a 
lire  of  battle  ship.  It  is,  however,  believed  that  a  ship 
canal  17  feet  deep  at  high  water,  82  feet  wide  between 
the  banks,  and  40  at  bottom,  would  be  preferable  ;  in 


116 


BROOKLYN. 


I(! 


i 


F 


'i 


:i 


f!P 


which  case  the  cost  of  completion  has  been  estimated 
at  $54,548. 

Brooklyn,  (on  Long-Island,)  directly  opposite  New- 
York,  from  which  it  is  separated  by  the  East  river,  is 
usually  reached  by  steam-boats  which  are  constantly 
plying  between  the  foot  of  Fulton  street  and  that  vil- 
lage. In  1830,  it  had  a  population  of  12,403,  and  with- 
in a  few  yesrs  has  arisen  to  much  importance.  Its  con- 
tiguity to  New- York,  and  the  facihties  afforded  for 
communicating  between  the  two  places,  have  induced 
many  merchants  and  men  of  business  to  select  it  as  a 
place  of  residence  in  preference  to  the  upper  parts  of 
the  city.  The  village  also  contains  several  elegant 
country  seats  and  public  gardens.  Those  on  the  bank 
contiguous  to  the  East  river,  from  their  elevated  situa- 
tion, overlooking  the  bay  of  New- York,  and  command- 
ing a  view  of  a  great  part  of  the  city,  are  peculiarly  at- 
tractive and  romantic.  North-eastwardly  of  the  vil- 
lage, on  a  tract  of  land  called  the  Wallabout,  is  a  U.  S. 
navy  yard,where  are  erected  a  house  for  the  command- 
ant, several  spacious  ware-houses,  and  an  immense 
wooden  edifice,  under  which  the  largest  ships  of  war 
are  built.  The  steam  frigate  Fulton,  which  lay  near 
the  navy  yard,  and  which  was  an  object  of  attraction, 
was  blown  up  at  this  place  in  1829,  occasioning  the 
loss  of  several  lives. 

Brooklyn  is  intimately  connected  with  important 
events  of  the  revolution,  and  in  its  vicinity  are  pointed 
out  some  remaining  vestiges  of  fortifications  and  mil- 
itary works  erected  during  that  eventful  period.  The 
road  to  Flatbush  (4  miles  east)  crosses  the  ground  on 
which  the  battle  of  the  27th  July,  1776,  was  fought, 


!<"*^mMf?i?<^... 


estimated 

site  New- 
st  river,  is 
constantly 
d  that  vil- 
and  with- 
!.    Its  con- 
forded  for 
ve  induced 
lect  it  as  a 
)er  parts  of 
ral  elegant 
n  the  bank 
^ated  situa- 
command- 
culiarly  at- 
of  the  vil- 
,  is  a  U.  S. 
command- 
immense 
ips  of  war 
;h  lay  near 
attraction, 
[ioning  the 

important 
ire  pointed 
IS  and  mil- 

iod.    The 

round  on 

[as  fought, 


DISCOTERY    OF    THE    HUDSON. 


117 


which  resulted  in  a  severe  loss  to  the  Americans  and 
the  capture  of  Generals  Sullivan  and  Sterling.  The 
marshes  in  which  so  many  lives  were  lost  in  retreating 
from  the  British  army,  are  south  of  this. 

From  Brooklyn  to  Jamaica,  a  pleasant  village,  and 
the  capitol  of  the  county  of  Queens,  is  12  miles  ;  and 
from  thence  to  Rockaway,  bordering  on  the  Atlantic,  is 
9  miles  farther.  The  roads  to  this  place  being  excel- 
lent, it  is  much  resorted  to  in  the  summer  months.  A 
fine  view  of  the  ocean  is  obtained,  which,  from  its  un- 
ceasing roar  and  turbulence,  is  rendered  unusually 
sublime. 

DISCOVERY  OF  THE  HUDSON. 

From  the  collections  of  the  New- York  Historical 
Society,  we  are  enabled  to  glean  the  following  sketch 
of  the  first  discovery  of  the  Hudson  river  ;  which  may 
not  be  uninteresting  to  tourists  about  to  embark  on  its 
waters  : 

John  D.  Verrazzano,  a  Florentine,  in  the  service  of 
Francis  I.  of  France,  had  been  entrusted  with  the  com- 
mand of  four  ships,  in  cruising  against  the  Spaniards. 
These  vessels  being  separated  in  a  storm,  the  com- 
mander resolved,  with  one  of  them,  to  undertake  a 
voyage  for  the  discovery  of  new  countries.  About  the 
middle  of  March,  1554,  he  accordingly  arrived  on  the 
American  coast,  and  after  having  visited  the  coasts  of 
North-Carolina  and  Georgia,  he  directed  his  course 
northward,  and  entered  the  harbor  of  the  present  city  of 
New- York.  He  describes  the  islands  (Staten,  Man- 
hattan, &c.)  as  "  fruitful  and  pleasant,  full  of  hie  and 
broad  trees,  among  the  which  islands  any  navie  may 


118 


DISCOVERY    OF    THE    HUDSON. 


r  1 


ride  safe,  without  any  feare  of  tempest  or  other  dan- 
ger."   He  stayed  in  the  harbor,  about  15  days. 

Nearly  a  century  elapsed  before  any  farther  discove- 
ries were  made  on  this  part  of  the  continent.  It  was 
reserved  for  Henry  Hudson  to  make  the  first  voyage, 
up  the  Hudson  river.  After  having  visited  several  har- 
bors, he  entered  the  strait  now  called  the  Narrows  on 
the  6th  September,  1C09.  A  boat  was  manned  and  des- 
patched by  him  to  explore  what  appeared  to  be  a  river. 
In  this  service  the  boat's  crew  were  engaged  in  the  bay 
and  adjacent  waters  during  the  day.  On  their  way  back 
to  the  ship,  they  were  attacked  by  the  natives  in  two 
canoes.  A  skirmish  ensued,  in  which  one  of  Hudson's 
men,  named  Colman,  was  killed  by  an  arrow  which 
struck  him  in  the  throat,  and  two  more  wounded.  The 
next  day  the  remains  of  Colman  were  interred  on  a 
point  of  land  not  far  from  the  ship  ;  which,  from  that 
circumstance,  received  the  name  of  Colman's  Point, 
and  which  was  probably  the  same  that  is  now  called 
Sandy  Hook. 

On  the  12th,  Hudson  first  entered  the  river  which 
bears  his  name,  and  sailed  up  about  two  leagues.  He 
was  visited  by  great  numbers  of  the  natives,  who 
brought  him  Indian  corn,  tobacco,  beans  and  oysters  in 
great  abundance.  They  had  pipes  of  yellow  copper, 
in  which  they  smoked  ;  and  earthen  pots,  in  which  they 
dressed  their  food. 

From  the  12th  to  the  22d  September,  Hudson,  was 
employed  in  ascending  the  river.  He  describes  it  as 
abounding  with  great  stores  of  salmon.  In  his  passage 
he  was  visited  by  many  of  the  natives,  but  always  in 
an  amicable  manner.    He  sailed  up,  as  is  supposed,  a 


li 


■vX-SK.^,^.'  , 


liilM 


^'■•"^!^t--'^*i-::.:s-'-i%ym^ 


DISCOfERT    OP    THE    HUDSON. 


119 


:her  dan- 

r  discove- 
.    It  was 
t  voyage, 
ireral  har- 
irrows  on 
i  and  des- 
3e  a  river, 
n  the  bay 
way  back 
es  in  two 
Hudson's 
ow  which 
Jed.    The 
rred  on  a 
from  that 
's  Point, 
low  called 

^er  which 
lies.  He 
Ives,  who 
>ysters  in 
copper, 
Ihich  they 

Ison,  was 

ibes  it  as 

passage 

flways  in 

^posed,  a 


littlB  above  where  the  city  of  Hudson  now  stands  ;  be- 
yond which  he  himself;  never  ascended.  From  this 
place  he  despatched  a  boat,  (not  considering  it  safe  to 
proceed  further  with  his  vessel,)  manned  with  five 
hands,  which  ascended  the  river,  it  is  supposed,  as  far 
as  where  the  city  of  Albany  now  stands. 

During  this .  excursion,  Hudson  gave  to  some  of  the 
Indians  ardent  spirits,  for  the  purpose  of  making  an  ex- 
periment on  their  tempers.  He  says  they  all  became 
merry  ;  but  only  or 3  was  completely  intoxicated.  A 
tradition  still  exists  among  the  six  nations,  that  a  scene 
of  intoxication  occurred  when  the  first  ship  arrived  ; 
having  reference,  doubtless,  to  this  event. 

Hudson  began  to  descend  the  river  on  the  23d  of 
September,  having  frequent  intercourse  with  the  Indi- 
ans on  his  way  down,  from  whom  he  experienced  kind 
treatment,  until  he  descended  below  the  Highlands. 
Here  they  attempted  to  rob  the  ship,  and  repeatedly 
shot  at  the  crew.  He  directed  several  muskets  to  be 
discharged  at  them,  which  killed  ten  or  twelve.  These 
conflicts  occurred  frequently  during  the  1st  and  2d  of 
October  ;  but  none  of  the  ship's  crew  were  injured. 

On  the  4th  of  October,  one  month  from  the  time  he 
first  landed  at  Sandy  Hook,  he  sailed  out  of  the  river 
and  proceeded  to  sea,  reaching  England  the  7th  of  No- 
vember following. 

Hudson  did  not  give  his  own  name  to  the  river  he 
discovered.  It  was  called,  by  the  Iroquois  Indians, 
Cahohatatea  ;  by  the  Mohiccans,  Mahakaneghtuc,  and 
sometimes  Shatemuck.  Hudson  styled  it  the  "  Great 
River,"  or  the  "  Great  River  of  the  Mountains."  The 
k2 


"VMita 


ri 


lv»o 


rUHM    NKU-\(>UK    TO   \LItANT. 


nMm>  of  itH  tliHi'ovrror,  liowovor,  was  pvon  to  it  noon 
nncrwiirdiji. 

I  l»ulst)n,  in  ji  Mul>s<Mm(Mit  vt>ya!XO  tor  [\\v  Knst  India 
(N»n\|miiy.  hcciinu'  a  j>rrv  to  the  nnitinv  of  liis  nuMi  in 
tho  l»ay  wIuoIj  Ixmus  iiis  naino.  I  h^  was  lorciliiy  put 
into  a  boat  >vitl»  his  son  and  st^von  t)thtMs,  >vlio  >v«mo 
ntostly  invalids,  and,  in  this  niatnnM',  inhnnnndy  ivhan- 
«loni*<l.     '.riu'v  woiv  novor  htard  i>t' nioiv. 


FKOM   NKW-VOUK  TO  ALUANV, 

A  ihslanro,  l»v  wator,  oi'  111  mii«'s,  and  by  lan<l. 
nioasnrinn-  h«M>vtvn  tho  n^sptrtivo  post  t)irict  s,  of  ]{]{) 
nni<*s,  a  connnntncation  is  alt«Mnat«'ly  kopt  up  hy  a  lino 
orstai::rs  in  tl»o  winttM*  soason,  and  by  stoani  b»)atsdnr- 
iniX  tl^»'  absiM»rt>  ol'llio  ic»<  in  tho  Undson.  Tho  lollow- 
ir.^Jlj  is  a  lahlo  ol'tUstanoos  botwoon  th(^  two  placoy  : 


1)18  r  ANT K  HY  WATEU   KHOM 


<V 


hi     J 


\\  oliawkon 

^ali^^lulo^s.  sontlioin  tonnination, 

VoYl  \Vnshini:t»)n , 


%    •   •    •   •   • 


•    •••••••#•# 


Tappan  Uay,  sotUlurn  oxtrtMoity 

Sinii  i^nu',, 

\  lavorstraw  l>av, 

St«>nt^v  l\MMt 


»  • 


J      I 


r> 


i       V2 
1*2       *2I 


Anthony's  ISoso 
West  Point, 


:i'2    n 


:u 


'15 
50 


b 


'M)     105 


Vorplanok's  Point 1       -10     10 1 

I h>rso  Uaoo,  (Uioldands,) "i      4'2     102 


F'-t^gyfftV-'-i'.yt^^X  .i;W!«f.rfi,+-iv 


■III 


TAttHAUK  or  TIIIC  IHtDBUN. 


m 


,0  it  noon 

Inst  li\(lia 
^  nuM\  ill 
iciMy  put 
kvho  Nvrio 
nly  almn- 

V, 

by  huul, 
's,or  KU) 

by  a  lino 
»onts  tlur- 
»o  Tolluw- 
acoB  : 

[\  FIIUM 


>■■ 
C 

a 

I  'M\ 
]M 
1  -20 
112 
110 
105 
101 
102 
90 
94 


niHTANCC  IIT  WATER  VliOH 


'¥i 


9 


r«»llop('l  Inlaiul, 


"S,      t^i 


<u        :=; 


I 


1 


(^>\s:)('kir, 8 

K  indorliook, < 1 

JN(<\v-italtimon> 5 


50  88 

GO  84 

71  73 

75  G8 

)   80  63 

)   UO  53 

f      07  40 

\     100  43 

I   111  32 

»  ll<>  27 


124 
125 
130 
134 
144 


19 

18 

13 

9 


Boats  leavo  Now- York  lor  Albany  at  7  o'clock  A. 
M.  ami  at  5  P.  M.,  and  tho  trip  is  lisually  performed  in 
from  12  to  M  liours — faro  from  $3  to  $3,50.  A  mor- 
ning boat  will  provo  tbo  most  intorostin^  to  thoao  who 
bavo  novt»r  porfornuMl  tho  routo  by  day-li«!jlit ;  as  it  will 
aObrd  an  opportnnity  »>f  witnossinjjf  tbo  rich  scenery 
and  numorous  villa^ijos  and  country  scats  between  tho 
two  cities. 

THE  PASSAGi:  OF  THE  HUDSON. 

Besides  the  pi (^a sure  of  a  st ram-boat  passage,  tho 
Hudson  river  presents  to  the  tourist  a  variety  of  natu- 
ral scenery  which  it  will  bo  diflicult  to  find  elsewhere 


mm>mmmi'''ii^m*»' 


NMMPMIf^rran 


122 


WEEHAWKEN — PALI9AD0ES. 


'  I 


■w 


in  a  journey  of  the  same  extent.  To  the  grratification 
derived  from  a  prospect  of  the  beautiful  and  sublime  ob- 
jects of  nature,  the  effect  of  the  most  striking  contrast 
is  added,  to  render  the  scene  truly  picturesque  and  en- 
chanting. On  the  one  hand  are  seen  summits,  crown- 
ed with  forests,  apparently  impenetrable  to  the  foot- 
steps of  cultivation,  and  on  the  other,  beautiful  and  ex- 
tensive lawns,  checkered  with  the  abodes  of  husband- 
ry, and  glowingr  in  all  the  rich  verdure  of  summer ; 
while  in  the  same  circumstances  of  vision  may  be  seen 
the  fading  view  of  some  town  or  cit)'^,  and  in  perspec- 
tive a  perpetual  opening  scenery  of  forests  and  cultiva- 
tion, plains  and  mountains,  towns  and  villages,  impart- 
ing to  the  beholder  all  the  charms  of  novelty,  with  the 
highest  emotions  of  the  sublime. 

Weehawken,  about  6  miles  from  the  city,  on  the 
west  side  of  the  river,  is  pointed  out  to  the  traveller  as 
the  ground  on  which  Gen.  Hamilton  fell  in  a  duel  with 
Col.  Burr.  It  is  a  small  spot  on  the  margin  of  the  riv- 
er, with  huge  rocks  on  three  sides,  effectually  screen- 
ing it  from  the  observation  of  man,  except  from  the  riv- 
er ;  and  probably  has,  for  that  cause,  been  selected  as 
a  suitable  place  for  settling  affairs  of  honor.  Till  with- 
in a  few  years,  it  contained  a  monument  erected  to  the 
memory  of  Gen.  Hamilton  by  the  St.  Andrews  society ; 
but  it  has  been  removed.  His  body  was  deposited  in 
the  ground  attached  to  Trinity  church  in  the  city,  where 
there  is  a  handsome  monument,  enclosed  in  an  iron 
railing.    (See  pages  102  and  113.) 

The  Palisadoes,  which  make  their  first  appearance 
on  the  Hudson,  about  8  miles  from  New- York,  are  a 


i  j. 


f'*::«f"'i'''?i:'»»«r*j 


ratification 
sublime  ob- 
ig  contrast 
lUe  and  en- 
its,  crown- 
3  the  foot- 
ful  and  ex- 
f  husband- 
'  summer ; 
ay  be  seen 
n  perspec- 
tid  cultiva- 
ES,  impart- 
fy  with  the 

ty,  on  the 


n 


aveller  as 
uel  with 
the  riv- 
r  screen- 
the  riv- 
ected  as 
ill  with- 

ed  to  the 
society ; 

osited  in 

y,  where 
an  iron 

earance 
k,  are  a 


't 


FORT  LBS — FORT  WAfHlNUTON. 


133 


range  of  rocks,  from  20  to  550  feet  In  height,  and  ex- 
tend from  thence  to  Tappan,  a  distance  of  about  20 
miles.  In  some  places  they  rise  ahnost  perpendicular- 
ly from  the  shore,  and  form,  for  several  miles  in  extent, 
a  solid  wall  of  rock,  diversified  only  by  an  occasional 
fishing  hut  on  the  beach  at  their  base,  or  wood  slides 
down  their  sides,  and  sometimas  by  an  interval  of  a 
few  acres  of  arable  land,  affording  an  opening  for  a 
landing  place,  and  a  steqp  road  leading  to  their  top.  On 
the  opposite  side  of  the  river,  the  land  is  varied  by  hill 
and  dale,  cultivated  fields  and  woods,  with  cottages 
and  country  seats.  The  land  in  this  place,  however, 
back  from  the  river,  rises  in  rocky  hills,  and  becomes 
more  precipitous  as  you  advance  into  Westchester 
county. 

Twelve  miles  from  New- York,  the  boat  passes  the 
site  of  Fort  Lee,  on  the  brow  of  the  Palisadoes,  at  the 
height  of  300  feet  above  the  river ;  nearly  opposite  to 
which,  on  a  high  hill  on  the  east  side  of  the  river,  stood 
Fort  Washington.  In  October,  1776,  after  the  evac- 
uation of  New- York  by  the  American  troops,  follow- 
ed the  battle  of  White  Plains,  by  which  name  is 
known  the  high  ground  on  the  east,  between  the  Hud- 
eon  river  and  the  Sound  above  Kingsbridgc,  whence 
Washington  retreated  to  Peekskill.  Fort  Washington 
was  then  taken  by  the  Hessians  and  British,  and  the 
garrison,  composed  of  2600  militia  and  regular  troops, 
surrendered  prisoners  of  war.  The  surrender  of  Fort 
Lee  followed  soon  after  Washington  crossed  the  Hud- 
son.  There  was  also  on  the  east  side  another  fort,,  call- 
ed Independ<?!nce. 


pm 


■'  J 


t   If 


!.>> 


121 


TAPPAN  BAT — TARRTTOWN. 


!; 


Twenty-four  miles  above  New- York  the  river  ex- 
pands and  forms  what  is  called  Tappan  Bay.  The  lit- 
tle village  of  Tappan,  a  place  of  much  note  during-  An- 
dre's and  Arnold's  conspiracy,  is  situated  on  its  wes- 
tern shore.  The  spot  of  Andre's  grave  is  still  pointed 
out  near  this  village,  though  his  remains,  a  few  years 
since,  were  conveyed  to  England,  by  order  of  the  Brit- 
ish government.  This  bay  is  from  2  to  5  miles  wide, 
and  8  miles  long,  terminating  at  Teller's  Point. 

About  a  mile  above  Tappan  village,  on  the  eastern 
shore,  is  the  village  of  Tarrytown,  where  Andre  was 
captured  by  Paulding,  Van  Wart  and  Williams,  the 
American  militia-men.  Paulding  died  some  years  ago, 
and  a  monument  was  erected  over  his  grave  by  the  cor- 
poration of  New- York.  Van  Wart  died  more  recently, 
and  a  monument  to  his  memory  has  been  erected  by 
the  citizens  of  Westchester  county.  It  is  a  neat  struc- 
ture of  white  marble,  consisting  of  a  base  of  three  as- 
cending steps,  and  a  pedestal  upon  which  stands  an 
obelisk  ;  in  all,  being  from  fifteen  to  eighteen  feet  high. 
It  stands  by  the  road  side,  in  a  retired  valley  in  'the 
own  of  Greensburgh,  about  three  m  iles  east  of  Tarry- 
town. 

Near  the  northern  extremety  of  Tappan  Bay,  on  the 
eastern  shore,  is  the  Sing  Sing  state  prison.  It  com- 
prises 800  dormitaries  or  solitary  cells,  is  4  stories  high, 
and  occupies  about  50  by  500  feet  of  ground.  From 
each  end  of  the  main  building,  which  stands  parallel 
with  the  river,  in  a  westerly  direction,  are  carried  out 
wings,  300  feet  in  extent,  forming  a  spacious  inner 
yard,  open  only  to  the  river.  The  wings,  composed  of 
marble,  are  constructed  for  workshops,  a  chapel,  kitch- 


river  ex- 

The  lit- 

iring-  An- 

I  its  wcs- 

II  pointed 
few  years . 

the  Brit- 
iles  wide, 
It. 

le  eastern 

.ndre  was 

iams,  the 

^'ears  ago, 

)y  the  cor- 

I  recently, 

srected  by 

eat  struc- 

three  as- 

itands  an 

eet  high. 

y  in  'the 

)fTarry- 


^ 


r,  on  the 

It  com- 

|ies  high. 

From 

parallel 

tried  out 

Is  inner 

Dosed  of 

kitch- 


!f 


it,  ,!^^ 


V,     *1 


i    (•!; 


.* 


if 


t! 


tji 

n 

u 


o 


4 


K% 


V 

U 

V 

n 


!i!!lliiil!iliilllil!lllll!i;Uli|!llili!l)!i^il|lii||!|||i 


_J» 


%"^^«M«» 


4 


llAVnUSTRAW   n\Y   -Tlir.  IIKJTII.ANH^. 


125 


rn,h<>H|>itni,isi.r.  'Vhr  rimpri  \h  orHHni<i«'iit  (limniHionii 
to  liohl  IMM)  |H'iHoiis.  'I'lir  lu'r|«'r'H  hoiiHi',  on  tin;  Houth- 
tMiMtrni  «mmI  of'llio  iiuiin  lmil«liii«j,  iw  uIhu  coiiMt.nuli'd  of 
niarblr.  Tin'  iinm'iM'r  ofconvictH  in  tlir  priHoii  ii^  1832, 
wns  risiim  of  HOO.  I(m  nrrtion  w;im  ronniu-TUMMl  in 
1825  J  and  ilH  cohI  in  cHtinuitcd  at  riHing  of  $2(K»,000. 

llAvriisrnAW  IVvy  rotnmonrrH  31  iniirs  from  Nnw- 
Vork,nii(l  IcnninatcHal  Sloin-y  and  Vrr|'lan<k'.M  Points; 
bcin*]^  ahont  r»  nnh'H  in  I«M»<,th,  and  frr>ni  2  to  4  in  width, 
llavcrstruw  villai^c  is  on  tlio  went  sido  of  tiuK  hay. 

Tlu^  lliGiiLANPS,  or  I'^iH'ikill  Mountains,  which  first 
apjxar  ahont  K)  nnli'H  from  Nrw-YorU,  will  attract  no- 
tice, not  oidy  from  their  ^raiulcnrand  suhlimity,  but  al- 
so from  their  associarnwi  with  some  of  the  most  impor- 
tant events  of  tin;  revolution.  This  chain  of  mountains 
is  about  10  miles  in  width,  and  ext<'nds  alon«j^  both  sides 
of  the  ITudson,  to  the  distance  of  20  miles.  The  height 
of  the  principal  has  In^en  (  slimated  at  15G5  fi^et.  Ac- 
conlin<r  to  the  lhe«)ry  of  tin;  late;  Doctor  Mitchell,  this 
thick  and  solid  barrier  seems  in  ancic^nt  day^  to  have 
impeded  the  course  of  the  water,  and  to  have  raised  a 
lake  hi^h  enouLdi  to  cover  all  the  country  to  Quaker 
Hill  and  the  Laconick  Mountains  on  the  east,  and  to 
Shawanirnnk  and  theCatskill  Mountains  on  the  went ; 
extendin":  to  the  Tattle  Falls  of  the  Mohawk,  and  to 
Hadley  Falls  on  the  Hudson — but  by  some  convulsion 
of  nature,  the  mountain  chain  has  been  broken,  and  the 
rushing  waters  found  their  way  to  the  now  New- York 
bay.  At  the  entrance  of  the  Hi;^hlands,  on  the  south, 
is  the  site  of  an  old  fort  on  Verplanck's  Point,  opposite 


I 


W  ii 


M 


t 

I 

it 


136 


WKflT    POINT. 


i 


ir 


I  fef 


f: 


to  wWch  stood  the  fort  of  Stoney  Point,  which  was  tak- 
en from  Gen,  Wayne  in  1778,  and  re-taken  by  him  the 
Bame  year.  About  two  miles  north  of  this,  what  is 
termed  the  Horse  Race  commences.  This  consists  of 
an  angle  in  the  river,  which,  for  a  little  more  than  a 
mile,  takes  an  eastwardly  direction,  contracted  to  a 
very  narrow  space  within  bold  and  rocky  mountains  ; 
one  of  which,  Anthony's  Nose,  is  1228  feet  high,  and 
is  opposite  the  mouth  of  Montgomery  creek,  overlook- 
ing Forts  Montgomery  and  Clinton.  These  forts,  un- 
der command  of  Gen.  Putnam,  were  captured  by  the 
British  troops  uader  Sir  Henry  Clinton,  in  1777,  when 
on'  his  way  to  co-operate  with  Gen.  Burgoyne ;  the  news 
of  whose  surrender,  however,  reached  Sir  Henry  when 
he  had  proceeded  as  far  as  Kingston,  50  miles  higher 
up,  and  changed  his  advance  into  a  retreat.  Bloody 
Pond,  so  called,  from  its  being  the  place  in  which  the 
bodies  of  the  slain  were  thrown  after  the  defences  of 
these  forts,  is  in  the  rear  of  Fort  Chnton. 

West  PoIint,  one  of  the  most  impregnable  posts  dur- 
ing the  revolutionary  war,  is  situated  on  the  west 
side  of  the  Hudson,  near  the  entrance  of  the  High- 
lands on  the  north.  It  formed  an  important  fast- 
ness of  the  American  r-my  during  the  eight  years 
contest  with  the  British  ation  ;  and  the  consequence 
attached  to  it,  in  a  military  point  of  view,  was  evin- 
ced by  the  repeated  but  unsuccessful  efforts  of  the 
enemy  to  obtain  it.  It  was  here  that  Arnold  con- 
ceived the  horrid  purpose  of  bartering  his  country  for 


^IgNiww'? 


WEST  POINT. 


127 


;h  was  tak- 
by  him  the 
IS,  what  is 
consists  of 
lore  than  a 
acted  to  a 
nountains  ; 
t  high,  and 
,  overlook- 
e  forts,  un- 
ired  by  the 
1777,  when 
! ;  the  news 
'enry  when 
liles  higher 
it.  Bloody 
I  which  the 
efences  of 


posts  dur- 

the  west 

Ithe  High- 

rtant  fast- 

[ght  years 

isequence 

vas  evin- 

fts  of  the 

lold  con- 

mntry  for 


I 


gold.*  I'his  conspiracy,  however,  which  aimed  a  death 
blow  to  liberty  in  the  western  hemisphere,  resulted  on- 
ly in  the  universal  contempt  and  ignominy  of  Arnold, 
and  in  the  lamented  death  of  the  unfortunate  Andre. 
There  are  here  at  present  a  number  of  dwelling-houses, 
and  a  military  academy,  built  on  the  plain  which  forma 
the  bank  of  the  river,  188  feet  in  height,  to  which  a  road 
ascends  on  the  north  side  of  the  point.  In  the  back 
ground,  and  elevated  on  a  mass  of  rocks  598  feet  in 
height,  is  the  site  of  Fort  Putnam.  Silence  and  decay 
now  mark  the  spot  of  this  once  formidable  fortress.  Its 
mouldering  ruins,  however,  convey  a  pretty  correct 
idea  of  the  impregnable  barrier  its  ramparts  once  pre- 
sented to  the  enemies  of  freedom. 

The  Military  Academy  here  established  by  con- 
gress, was  first  organized  under  the  direction  of  the  late 
Gen.  Williams,  in  1802.  Of  the  number  of  applicants 
for  admission  to  this  institution,  a  preference  is  usually 
given,  first,  to  the  sons  of  officers  of  the  revolution ; 
and  secondly,  to  the  sons  of  deceased  officers  of  the 
late  war.  None  are  admitted  under  the  age  of  14  years, 
nor  above  the  age  of  22.  The  number  of  cadets  is  lim- 
ited to  250,  each  of  w^hom  costs  the  government  $336 
annually  ;  and  the  whole  establishment  is  maintained 
at  an  annual  expense  of  $115,000.  In  addition  to  the 
various  sciences  which  are  taught  here,  the  cadets  are 


*  The  residence  of  Gen.  Arnold  was  at  the  house 
and  farm  of  Col.  Beverly  Robinson,  opposite  West 
Point,  on  the  east  bank  of  the  Hudson.  The  house  is 
still  a  conspicuous  object,  as  well  as  the  one  in  which 
Arnold  fixed  his  head  quarters. 


^  '  ^'' 


'<■■    !■ 


i  f  ' 


rM 


12S 


IVEST   POINT. 


instructed  in  all  the  practical  minutire  of  tactics  ;  com- 
prehending the  lowest  duties  of  the  private  soldier,  as 
well  as  the  highest  duties  of  the  oflicer.  They  ere  al- 
so required  to  encamp  for  6  or  8  weeks  in  a  year  ;  dur- 
ing which  time  they  are  instructed  in  the  manner  of 
pitcliing  and  striking  tents,  in  the  various  infantry  evo- 
lutions, and  in  all  the  details  of  the  camp. 

Several  of  the  buildings  at  West  Point  are  elegant, 
and  among  the  number  may  be  ranked  a  new  and  spa- 
cious hotel.  It  has  been  erected  in  a  style  and  on  a 
scale  which  render  it  a  great  ornament  to  the  grounds. 
It  is  substantially  built  of  stone,  painted  yellow,  and  the 
lower  story  is  surrounded  on  its  sides  with  extensive 
piazzas,  forming  a  delightful  promenade.  Its  rear  is 
upon  the  Hudson,  and  presents  a  delightful  view  up  the 
river  through  the  Highlands.  The  front  faces  the  pa- 
rade ground  and  the  ground  used  for  the  encampment. 

In  the  morning,  the  cadets  drill  as  artillery,  in  front 
of  the  camp.  The  system  followed  is  that  of  Lallc- 
mand.  The  drill  of  the  afternoon  is  that  of  infantry. 
But  the  principal  attraction  to  the  visiter  is  the  morn- 
ing and  evening  parade,  in  which  the  whole  battalion, 
with  the  exception  of  the  guard,  is  drawn  out  and  car- 
ried through  the  manual,  by  the  officer  commanding. 

Near  the  north  eastern  extremity  of  the  grounds,  at 
the  projecting  point  forming  the  abrupt  bend  of  the 
river,  stands  a  monument  of  white  marble,  consisting 
of  a  base  and  short  column,  on  the  former  of  which  is 
simply  inscribed  on  one  side,  "  Kosciusko,"  it  having 
been  erected  to  the  memory  of  tliat  distinguished  patri- 
ot, who  resided  here.  Another  monument  stands  on 
the  N.  W.  corner  of  the  grounds  near  the  road  from  the 


NEW   WINDSOR. 


1S9 


s  ;  com- 
>ldier,  aa 
y  ere  al- 
ir ;  dur- 
um er  of 
itry  evo- 

elegant, 
ind  spa- 
id  on  a 
rrounds. 
and  the 
stensive 
5  rear  is 
V  up  the 
the  pa- 
ppment. 
in  front 
Lallo- 
ifantry. 
morn- 
ttahon, 
nd  car- 
ding, 
nds,  at 
of  the 
sisting 
hich  is 
having 
patri- 
ds  on 
>ui  the 


landing  to  the  hotel,  upon  a  small  hillock.  It  is  a  plain 
obelisk  about  20  feet  higli,  erected  by  Gen.  Brown  to 
the  memory  of  Col.  E.  D.  Wood,  a  pupil  of  the  institu- 
tion, who  fell  leading  a  charge  at  the  sortie  from  Fort 
Erie,  on  the  17th  September,  1814. 

On  the  bank  of  the  Hudson  at  the  south  eastern  ex- 
tremity of  the  parade  ground,  and  several  yards  be- 
neath, is  a  spot  called  Kosciusko's  garden,  or  Koscius- 
ko's retreat.  It  is  the  place  to  which  the  Polish  patri- 
ot was  accustomed  to  retire  to  study,  and  which  was 
cultivated  by  his  own  hands.  Though  now  neglected, 
the  marks  of  cultivation  are  perceptible  in  the  regular- 
ity of  the  walks  and  the  arrangement  of  the  trees.  A 
more  delightful  spot  for  recreation  or  repose  cannot  be 
imagined,  nor  one  more  suitable  as  a  retreat  from  tha 
cares  of  the  great  world,  or  a  sanctuary  for  unfortunate 
patriotism  or  persecuted  virtue. 

PoLLOPEi.  Island  is  situated  at  thie  northern  en- 
trance of  the  Highlands,  6  miles  above  West  Point.  It 
consists  of  a  mass  of  rock,  and  rises  near  the  centre  of 
the  river,  between  Breakneck  Hill  on  the  east  and  But- 
ter Hill  on  the  west.  The  altitude  of  the  latter  is  1529 
feet — the  former  is  1187  feet  in  height,  and  contains 
the  rock  called  the  Upper  Anthony's  Nose. 

New-Windsor.  Passing  the  Highlands,  the  pros- 
pect changes  into  a  very  agreeable  contrast.  The  bay 
of  Newburgh  with  the  village  of  the  same  name,  and 
New-Windsoi,  and  on  the  opposite  shore  the  village  of 
Fishkill,  with  its  numerous  adjacent  manufactories  and 
country  seats,  together  with  a  view  of  the  Hudson  for 
many  miles  above,  form  a  prospect  which  cannot  fail 
to  impart  much  interest.     The  village  of  New-Wirdior 


■1 


'tr 


130 


N'^.wnrRfiii. 


'Ii' 


stands  on  the  marn^in  of  the  river,  7  miles  from  West 
Point.  It  is  calcuhited  for  a  pleasant  place  of  resi- 
dence, but  in  business  it  must  yield  to  the  rival  vil- 
lage of 

Newburgh.  Thifl  is  an  ineorporated  villan^e,  situa- 
ted on  the  decHvity  of  a  hill  on  the  west  side  of  tho 
Hudson,  10  miles  north  from  West  Point,  and  84  south 
from  Albany.  It  eontains  about  GOO  houses,  and  a 
population  of  about  4000  inliahitants.  From  its  situa- 
tion it  commands  an  entensive  intercourse  and  trade 
with  the  country  on  the  west,  and,  by  means  of  the  Hud- 
son river,  with  New- York.  This  place  was  for  some 
time  the  head  quarters  of  the  American  army  during 
the  revolutionary  war  ;  and  the  "  stone  house"  in  which 
Gen.  Washington  quaitcred  is  still  standing.  On  the 
opposite  side  of  tho  river  from  Newburgh  is  Beacon 
Hill,  one  of  the  highest  summits  of  tho  Fishkill  moun- 
tains, where  parties  of  pleasure  frequently  resort,  in  the 
summer  season,  to  witness  an  extent  of  prospect  inclu- 
ding a  part  of  tlic  territories  of  five  difTorcnt  states. 
This  hill  is  1471  feet  in  hei«2:ht.  Half  a  mile  south  is 
the  New  Beacon,  or  Grand  Sachem,  16S5  feet  above 
the  level  of  the  Hudson.  Thoy  ar(;  called  Beacon  Hills, 
from  the  clrcumstanco  tliat  beacons  were  erected  on 
their  summits  during  the  rcvoluf  ionary  war.  The  con- 
tinuation of  this  chain  of  mountahis  is  lost  in  the  Ap- 
palachian Range  on  the  noith  oasty  and  extends  south 
as  far  as  the  eye  can  reach.  Diminisiiod  in  distance,  is 
seen  West  Point,  environed  by  mountains,  apparently 
reposing  on  the  surface  of  the  Hudson,  and  bathing 
tlieir  rocky  summits  in  the  clouds. 


t      ?  ■* 


:^ 


u\ 


HYDE   PAUre    I.ANDINCJ. 


131 


oin  West 

'  of  resi- 

rival  vil- 

?<^,  situa- 
lo  of  tlio 
84  south 
s,  and  a 
its  sitiia- 
nd  trade 
-lie  Hud- 
for  some 
K  during 
in  which 

On  the 

Beacon 
I  moun- 
t,  in  the 
-t  inchi- 

states. 
5outh  is 

above 

Tlill8, 

tod  on 
e  con- 

10  Ap- 
south 

ncc^  is 

rontly 
thing 


Milton,  is  a  small  Immlct,  situated  on  the  west  side 
of  the  riudyon  river,  in  the  town  of  Mailborouffh,  11 
miles  from  iNewbuioh.  This  place  is  called  the  half- 
way place  between  iNcw-York  and  Albany,  being  72^ 
miles  tii?<tiint  from  each.  I'wo  and  a  half  miles  south 
of  Milton,  on  tljc  east  aide  of  tiic  1  Indson,  is  the  man- 
sion house  of  the  late  Gov.  Georjcje  Clinton. 

PoTJGiiKF.F.psiK,  If)  miles  nortli  of  Newburgh,  is  sit- 
uated one  mile  east  from  the  Tlndson,  on  the  post 
road  from  Albany  to  New-York,  and  was  incorporated 
in  1801.  The  villa,q^e  i'=<  nbont  the  same  size  of  New- 
burgh,  handsomely  located,  and  a  place  of  considerable 
trade.  It  is  laid  out  in  the  form  of  a  cross,  the  two  prin- 
cipal streets  ciosrinp:  each  other  at  ripht  angles.  A 
road  leads  down  a  lon^  steep  hill  from  Poughkeepsie  to 
the  landinor  on  the  Hudson  river.  This  landing  is  3 
miles  above  Milton.     About  5  miles  farther  north  is 

Hydf,  Park  Landing,  on  the  east  side  of  the  Hud- 
son ri  r^r,  near  which  are  a  number  of  country  seats. 
The  first  is  the  mansion  of  Judge  Pendleton — one  mile 
farther  is  the  seat  of  H.  Wilkes,  Esq. — from  thence  3 
miles  up  the  river,  was  the  former  residence  of  Gen- 
eral M.  Lewis,  whose  house  was  recently  destroyed  by 
fire.  There  is  here  a  landing  place,  leading  to  Staats- 
berg,  one  mile  distant,  in  the  town  of  Hyde  Park.  Two 
miles  farther  north  is  the  residence  of  R.  Tillotson,  Esq. 
From  thence  to  llhinebeck  Landmg  is  3  miles,*  near  to 


*  Near  this  place,  on  the  west  side  of  the  river,  is  the 
commencement  of  the  Delaware  and  Hudson  canal.  It 
extends  in  a  south-westwardly  direction  to  the  forks  of 

l2 


132 


CATSKII.I. 


!lil 


which  is  the  residence  of  Doct.  David  Hosack — thnnri 
to  Redhook  Lower  Landing,  where  are  the  mansions 
of  J.  R.  liivingston  and  vV.  Radcliflf,  is  7  miles — thence 
to  Redhook  Upper  Landing,  3  miles,  where  is  the 
residence  of  John  S.  Livingston — thence  2  miles  to  the 
seat  of  the  late  Chancellor  Livingston — thence  7  miles 
to  the  manor  house  of  the  late  Lord  Livingston — 
thence  one  mile  to  Oakhill,  the  residence  of  Harmon 
Livingston,  Esq. — thsnce  one  mile  to 

Catskill.  This  village  takes  its  name  from  a  large 
creek  which  flows  through  it,  and  empties  into  the 
Hudson  at  that  place.  It  is  situated  on  the  west  bank 
of  the  river,  32  miles  from  Albany,  and  contains  about 
300  dwellings,  and  a  population  in  the  entire  town  of 
nearly  5000  mhabitants.  On  Catskill  creek  are  already 
a  number  of  mills  and  manufactories,  and  the  general 
appearance  of  the  village  is  highly  flattering,  as  it  re- 
spects its  future  growth  and  prosperity.  This  village  is 
in  the  immediate  neighborhood  of  the  Katsbergs  or  Cats- 
kill  mountains,  which  are  seen  for  many  miles  along 
the  Hudson,  and  here  assume  a  truly  majestic  and  sub- 
lime appearance.  The  highest  elevation  of  this  range 
of  mountains  is  in  the  county  of  Greene,  from  8  to  12 
miles  distant  from  the  river,  including  the  Round  Topy 


the  Dyberry  on  the  Lackawaxen  river,  Pennsylvania, 
distance  103  miles,  lockage  1438  feet.  It  was  origi- 
nally intended  by  the  company  to  have  extended  this 
canal  to  Keen's  pond,  13  miles  from  its  present  termi- 
nation, but  it  has  been  abandoned  and  a  rail  road  substi- 
tuted, which  extends  3  miles  west  of  Keen's  pond  to 
the  Anthracite  coal  mines  of  Pennsylvania. 


I 


■;*'!ii«-..,. 


PINE  ORCHARD. 


133 


: — thnnr«i 
mansions 
} — thence 
re  is  the 
les  to  the 
;e  7  miles 
ngston — 
Harmon 


n  a  large 

m 

into  the 

4  ■# 

est  bank 

ns  about 

1 

town  of 

1 

3  already 

1 

general 

1 

as  it  re- 

1 

dllage  is 

1 

or  Cats- 

1 

3s  along 

1 

nd  siib- 

r 

s  range 

f 

8  to  12 

1 

nd  Topy 

1 

Ivania, 

1 

origi- 

"i 

^d  this 

M 

termi- 

B 

3ubsti- 

M 

ond  to 

H 

3S04  feet,  and  High  Peak,  3718  feet  in  height.  The  vil- 
la<!;e  ofCatskill,  which  has  hitherto  been  visited  princi- 
pally by  men  of  business,  has  recently  become  the  re- 
sort of  p':^ople  of  fashion  and  pleasure,  who  design  a 
tour  to  the 

Pine  Orchard,  a  place  which,  for  several  years  past, 
has  attracted  the  attention  of  all  classes  of  men,  and 
still  continues  to  draw  to  it  numbers  of  those  who  are 
fond  of  novelty,  and  especially  of  the  sublime  and  ro- 
mantic scenery  in  which  it  abounds.  Regular  stagt^s 
leave  Catskill  for  the  Pine  Orchard  twice  a  day.  The 
fare  is  the  moderate  price  of  one  dollar.  The  whole 
distance  is  12  miles,  computed  as  follows:  Fom  the 
village  to  Lawrence's  tavern,  7  miles — from  thence  to 
the  foot  of  the  mountain,  2  miles — from  thence  to  Pine 
Orchard,  3  miles.  This  distance  is  passed,  in  going,  in 
about  4  hours — in  returning,  in  about  2  hours.  1  he 
country  through  which  the  road  passes  has  nothing  in- 
teresting in  its  appearance,  until  it  reaches  the  moun- 
tain, being  generally  uneven  and  barren,  and  diversi- 
fied with  but  one  or  two  comparatively  small  spots  of 
cultivation,  upon  which  the  eye  can  rest  with  satisfac- 
tion. A  short  t'me  is  usually  taken  up  at  Lawrence's, 
for  the  purpose  of  refreshment,  before  encountering  the 
nigged  ascent  of  the  mountains.  This  part  of  the  road 
is  generally  go"  1,  but  circuitous,  and  oftsn  passes  on 
the  brink  of  some  deep  ravine,  or  at  the  foot  of  some 
frowning  pecipice,  inspiring  at  times  an  unwt  Icome  de- 
gree of  terror.  The  rock  upon  which  stands  the  hotel 
forms  a  circular  platform,  is  of  an  uneven  surface,  and 
includes  about  six  acres.     It  is  elevated  above  the  Hud- 


J3t 


rise  oucHAno. 


Bon  upwards  of  2200  feet.*  The  Hotel  is  140  feet  in 
length,  21  feet  in  width,  and  4  stories  high,  and  has  pi- 
azzas in  front  the  whole  length,  and  a  wing  extend- 
ing in  the  rear  for  lodging  rooms.  The  building  ia 
owned  by  the  "  Catskill  Mountain  Association,"  an  in- 
corporated company,  with  a  capital  of  $10,000.  It  is 
well  furnished,  and  possesses  every  convenience  and 
accommodation  requisite  to  the  comfort  and  good  cheer 
of  its  numerous  guests.  The  prospect  from  Pine  Or- 
chard embraces  a  greater  extent  and  more  diversity  of 
scenery  than  is  to  bo  found  in  any  other  part  of  the 
state,  or  perhaps  in  the  United  States.     The  vast  vari- 


+  Capt.  Patridge,  who  visited  the  Catskill  moun- 
tains in  1828,  made  the  following  barometrical  obser- 
vations : 

Altitude  of  the  Mountain  House,  at  the  Pine  Or- 
chard, above  the  surface  of  the  Hudson  river  at  Cats- 
kill  village,  2212  feet. 

Do.  of  the  same  above  the  scite  of  Lawrence's  tav- 
ern, 7  miles  from  Catskill,  1882  feet. 

Do.  of  the  same  above  the  turnpike  gate  at  the  foot  of 
the  mountain,  1574  feet. 

Do.  of  the  same  above  Green's  bridge,  947  feet. 

The  foregoing  results  were  derived  from  a  series  of 
barometrical  and  thermometrical  observations,  made  on 
the  17th  July,  1828,  The  altitude  of  the  Mountain 
House,  as  above  stated,  was  the  result  ot  two  distinct 
series  of  observations,  made  in  going  from  the  Catskill 
village  to  the  house,  and  returning  from  the  same  to  the 
village.  The  ascending  series  gave  an  altitude  of  2225 
feet,  and  the  descending  series  an  altitude  of  2203  feet. 
The  mean  of  these  two  extremes  gives  2212  feet.  This 
result  Capt.  P.  considered  as  a  very  near  approximation 
to  the  true  altitude. 


r"  5i  ^  ^    f  ■ 


'8 


■ma 


ATHENS. 


1 


J  J 


140  feet,  in 
nd  has  pi- 
ig  extcnd- 
•uilding  ia 
in,"  an  in- 
>00.  It  is 
ience  and 
^ood  cheer 
Pine  Or- 
versity  of 
art  of  the 
vast  vari- 


H   moun- 
al  obser- 

^'ine  Or- 
al Cats- 

!e's  tav- 

foot  of 

et. 
eries  of 

ade  on 
311  n  tain 
distinct 

atskill 
3  to  the 

f2225 

3  feet. 

This 

nation 


ety  of  fields,  farms,  villages,  towns  and  cities  between 
the  green  mountains  of  Vermont  on  the  north,  the  high- 
lands on  the  sctuth,  and  the  Taghkanick  mountains  on 
the  east,  together  with  the  Hudson  river,  studded  with 
islands  and  vessels,  some  of  which  may  be  seen  at  even 
the  distance  of  60  miles,  are  apparent  in  a  clear  atmos- 
phere to  the  naked  eye  ;  and  when  the  scene  is  gradu- 
ally unfolded,  at  the  opening  of  the  day,  it  assumes  rath- 
er the  appearance  of  enchantment  than  a  reality.  It  is 
not  uncommon,  at  this  place,  to  witness  storms  of  snow 
and  rain  in  their  seasons,  midway  the  mountain,  while 
all  is  clear  and  serene  on  its  summit.  About  two  miles 
from  the  Hotel,  are  the  Kaaterskill  Falls,  whJnh 
take  their  name  from  the  stream  on  which  they  are  sit- 
uated. This  stream  takes  ijs  rise  from  two  small  lakes, 
half  a  mile  in  the  rear  of  the  Hotel ;  and  after  a  wester- 
ly course  of  a  mile  and  a  half,  the  waters  fall  perpen- 
dicularly 175  feet,  and  after  pausing  a  moment  on  a 
projection  of  the  rock,  plunge  again  down  a  precipice  of 
85  feet  more,  making  the  whole  descent  of  the  falls  260 
feet.  The  road  to  the  falls  is  extremely  rough ;  but 
this  objection  will  hardly  deter  the  traveller  from  a  visit 
to  a  spot  so  novel  and  romantic. 

Athens,  five  miles  above  Catskill,  is  an  incorporated 
village,  and  contains  about  1000  inhabitants.  Its  situa- 
tion, on  a  gentle  slope  of  land,  rising  gradually  from 
the  river,  gives  it  a  very  favorable  appearance.  The 
vicinity  of  Athens  to  Hudson,  immediately  opposite, 
seems  to  forbid  that  importance  in  point  of  trade,  its  lo- 
cation might  otherwise  warrant.  Athens  furnishes  a 
number  of  beautiful  scitos  on  the  bank  of  the  river ; 


r^i 

I 

|[3           ' 

n 
1 

'1 
.  1 

4      ■ 

aevvs 


•i^ 


■i 


..i    1'"' 

I: 

>.'■      ^- 


^  I 


;  ■ 


\\ 


I 


136 


HUDSON— COXSAtKlK  LANDING. 


•ome  of  which  uro  already  occupied  by  the  elegant 
iiiunaionsj  of  private  «jeiitlemen. 

The  City  of  Hudson  stands  on  the  east  side  of  the 
river,  27  rnilos  soutli  from  Albany.  The  plain  on  which 
Hudson  is  situated  rises  abruptly  from  the  river,  by 
banks  from  50  to  00  feet  in  h«'isiht ;  and  terminates  on 
the  east,  at  the  foot  of  high  lands,  which  overlook  the 
city  at  an  elevation  of  some  hundred  feet,  and  furnish 
a  prospect  of  the  Hudson  river  and  scenery  for  many 
miles  in  extent.  The  city  contained  in  1830,  5392  in- 
habitants, and  is  daily  increasing  in  wealth,  population 
and  commerce.  Claverack  creek  on  the  east,  and  Kin- 
derhook  creek  on  the  north,  afford  every  facility  for 
mills  and  manufactories,  in  which  Hudson  abounds ; 
and  which  have  entitled  it' to  the  third  rank,  in  manu- 
factures, in  the  state.  On  the  opposite  side  of  the  Hud- 
eon  appear  a  number  of  country  seats  with  the  farm 
houses  and  cultivation  in  the  neitjhborhood  of  Athens 
and  Catskill,  bounded  by  the  lofty  Katsberghs,  rising  in 
the  back  ground  and  mingling  their  rugged  summits 
with  the  clouds. 

CoxsACKiE  LANDING,  whcrc  are  several  houses  and 
stores,  is  eight  miles  north  of  Hudson.  From  thence 
to  Kinderhook  landing  is  1  mile.  Here  are  about  25 
dwellings  and  a  post  office.  The  village  of  Kinder- 
hook  is  situated  5  miles  east.  Five  miles  further  north, 
is  the  village  of  New-Baltimore  ;  thence  to  Coeymans, 
2  miles — thence  to  Schodac  village,  2  miles — thence  to 
Castleton  landing,  2  milps — thence  to  Albany  8  miles. 


''^^!«m^^^. 


▲  LHANT. 


137 


ALBANY 

la  the  capital  of  the  state  of  New- York,  and  in  point 
of  wealth,  population,  tnulc  and  resources,  is  the  sec- 
ond city  in  tlib  state,  and  the  sixth  or  seventh  in  the 
Union.  It  is  situated  on  the  west  side  of  the  Hudson 
river,  and  near  the  head  of  tide  water.  It  was  settled 
in  1612;  and  next  to  Jamestown  in  Vir^jinia,  is  the 
oldest  settlement  in  the  U.  S.  In  1014,  a  small  fort 
and  trading  house  were  built  by  the  Dutch  on  an  isl- 
and half  a  mile  below  the  scite  of  the  present  city  ;  and 
soon  afterwards  fort  Orange,  where  the  city  now  stands. 
The  place  was  first  called  Aurania  ;  then  Bovcrwyrk, 
till  1625  ;  then  Fort  Orange  till  1647,  and  Williamstadt 
till  1664.  For  a  long  time  after  its  foundation  it  was 
enclosed  with  palisadoes  or  pickets,  as  a  defence  against 
the  Indians,  who  were  tlien  numerous  and  powerful  in 
its  vicinity.  Its  charter  was  granted  in  the  year  1686, 
and  embraced  an  area  of  7100  acres.  A  great  propor- 
tion of  its  soil  is  sandy  and  unproductive,  and  under  no 
system  of  useful  cultivation. 

Though  the  first  appearance  of  this  city  is  not 
prepossessing  to  a  stranger,  still  the  taste  which  has 
been  displayed  in  the  construction  of  its  public  and 
private  buildings — the  constant  din  of  commercial  bu- 
siness which  assails  the  ear  of  the  traveller — the  tr '•mi- 
nation  of  the  Erie  canal  and  he  Mohawk  and  Hudson 
rail  road  at  this  place,  and  many  other  attendant  cir- 
cumstances, render  Albany  an  important  and  interest- 
ing spot. 

The  town  is  divided  into  five  wards,  and  contains 
many  superb  and   elegant  buildings.     The   principal 


1  * 

j  ^ 


133 


▲  LBANT. 


1  ► 


streets  arc  Market,  Pearl,  and  State  streets.  The  two 
former  run  parallel  with  the  river,  and  the  latter  is  a 
spacious  one,  extending  from  the  Capitol  to  the  Hud- 
son, nearly  east  and  west.  Besides  these,  there  are 
many  other  streets,  less  considerable  in  extent,  but 
populous,  and  crowded  with  shops  and  stores. 

The  Capitol,  which  contains  the  legislative  halls, 
the  supreme  and  chancery  court  rooms  of  the  state, 
the  state  library,  and  other  apartments  for  public  busi- 
ness, stands  at  the  head  of  State  street,  on  an  elevation 
of  1 30  feet  above  the  level  of  the  river.  It  is  a  substan- 
tial stone  edifice,  erected  at  the  expense  of  5^120,000. 
It  is  115  feet  in  length,  90  in  breadth,  and  50  feet  high, 
consisting  of  two  stories,  and  a  basement  of  10  feet.  The 
east  front  is  adorned  with  a  portico  of  the  Ionic  order, 
having  4  magnificent  columns,  3  feet  8  inches  in  diam- 
eter, and  33  feet  in  height.  In  the  senate  and  assembly 
chambers  and  in  the  room  used  for  holding  the  court  of 
chancery  are  full  length  portraits  of  Washington,  of  the 
various  executives  who  have  administered  the  govern- 
ment of  the  state,  and  of  Abraham  Van  Vechten,  Esq. 
an  eminent  counsellor  at  law  residing  in  Albany. 
There  is  also  in  the  senate  chamber  a  good  bust  of  Doct. 
Franklin. 

The  Public  Square,  on  the  S.  W.  of  which  stands 
the  Capitol,  is  arranged  in  the  style  of  a  park,  is  sur- 
rounded by  a  costly  iron  fence,  and  has  several  delight- 
ful walks  and  avenues. 

North  of  the  Capitol  stands  the  Academy,  one  the 
most  elegantly  constructed  buildings  in  the  city.  It 
cost  about  $92,000  exclusive  of  the  lot  on  which  it  is 
erected,  and  some  donations.    It  is  built  of  free  stone, 


ALDANT. 


139 


The  two 
alter  is  a 
the  Hud- 
there  are 
ctent,  but 

ive  halls, 
the  state, 
iblic  busi- 
elsvation 
I  substan- 
^120,000. 
feet  high, 
feet.  The 
nic  order, 
3  in  diam- 
assembly 
e  court  of 
on,  of  the 
e  govern- 
ten,  Esq. 

Albany. 

of  Doct. 

stands 

,  is  3ur- 

delight- 

one  the 

lity.     It 

Kch  it  is 

e  stone, 


3  stories  in  height,  and  90  feet  in  front.  It  is  ono  of 
the  most  flourishing  institutions  in  the  state  j  has  5 
teachers  and  about  140  students. 

The  City  Hall,  fronting  the  foot  of  Washington 
street,  and  near  the  capitol  scjnare,  is  a  costly  edifice  of 
white  marl)le,  displaying  much  taste  in  its  structure, 
and  is  ornamental  to  the  part  of  the  city  in  which  it 
stands.  'I'ho  <lomc  is  gilded,  and  is  a  conspicuous  ob- 
ject at  some  distance  from  the  city. 

The  State  Hall,  for  the  ofFicos  of  the  secretary  of 
state,  conii)tr(»iIor,  treasurer,  surveyor-general,  attor- 
ney-general, and  clerk  of  tlie  supreme  court,  is  situated 
on  the  south  side  of  State-street,  nearly  equi-distant 
from  the  Capitol  and  the  foot  of  the  street. 

There  are  in  this  city  5  banks  and  16  houses  for 
public  worship.  Also  a  large  brick  building  for  the 
Lancaster  school,  a  theatre  in  South  Pearl  street,  and 
an  arsenal  in  North  Market  street.  The  museum  is  in 
an  elegant  marble  building,  owned  by  Messrs.  Thorp 
&  Sprague,  at  the  corner  of  State  and  North  Market 
streets,  and  is  one  of  the  best  in  the  country. 

Hotels. — The  principal  hotels  in  Albany,  are  the 
Eagle  Tavern,  South  Market  Street ;  the  Adelphi  Ho- 
tel, Bement's  Hotel,  American  Hotel,  State  Street ; 
Congress  Hall,  Capitol  Square  ;  Mansion  House,  City 
Hotel,  and  Temperance  House,  North  Market  street. 
These  are  all  first  rate  establishments,  elegantly  fur- 
nished and  well  kept. 

On  a  less  expensive  scale,  are  the  Fort  Orange  Ho- 
tel, Columbian  Hotel,  Exchange  Coffee  House,  and 

M 


140 


ALBANY. 


m  >' 


j«     •ta 


A 


#iW»|«p; 


Montgomery  Hall,  South  Market  st. ;  and  the  Frank- 
hn  House,  State  street. 

During  the  sessions  of  the  New- York  legislature, 
Albany  is  c  »*owded  with  strangers,  and  contains  much 
of  the  legal  talent  and  learning  of  the  state.  The  city 
is  eligibly  situated  for  trade,  being  the  great  thorough- 
fare for  the  northern  and  western  sections  of  the  coun- 
try. 

The  Albany  Basin,  where  the  waters  of  the  canal 
unite  will;  the  Hudson,  consists  of  a  part  of  the  river 
included  between  the  shore  and  an  artificial  pier  erect- 
ed 80  feet  in  width  and  4,300  feet  in  length.  The  p.ar 
contains  about  8  acres,  and  is  connected  with  the  c^*y 
by  draw  bridges.  Tt  is  a  grand  and  stupendous  work, 
on  which  spacious  and  extensive  stores  have  been  erect- 
ed, and  where  an  immense  quantity  of  lumber  and  oth- 
er articles  of  trade  are  deposited.  Its  original  cost  was 
$130,000,  and  the  different  lots  were  sold  at  public  auc- 
at  a  considerable  advance.  The  basin  covers  a  surface 
of  32  acres. 

A  mineral  spring  was  discovered  in  Albany  a  few 
years  since,  by  boring  through  a  slate  rock  to  the  depth 
of  500  feet.  The  partners  in  this,  however,  having  dis- 
agreed, one  of  them  (McCulloch,  a  Scotchman)  com- 
menced boring  on  his  own  account,  in  the  same  neigh- 
borhood, and  at  the  depth  of  617  feet  struck  upon  an- 
other, much  superior  in  its  qualities.  It  contains  a  large 
quantity  of  muriate  of  soda,  and  is  an  active  cathartic. 
The  spring  is  enclosed  in  a  handsome  garden,  and  is  a 
place  of  fashionable  resort  for  citizens  and  strangers. 


AI.BANT. 


141 


le  Frank- 

jgislature, 
tins  much 
The  city 
thorough- 
the  coun- 

the  canal 
f  the  river 
pier  erect- 

The  p.3r 
h  the  c'*y 
ous  work, 
)een  erect- 
r  and  oth- 
1  cost  was 
ublie  auc- 

a  surface 

ny  a  few 
the  depth 
Ipiving  dis- 
lan)  com- 
hie  neigh- 
upon  an- 
tis  a  hirge 
Icathartic. 
I,  and  is  a 
mgers. 


EXCURSIONS. 

TVie  environs  of  Albany  are  pleasant,  affording  many 
i  eii^htful  walks  and  rides,  and  the  adjacent  cities  of 
Troy  and  Schenectady,  and  the  villages  of  Lansing- 
burgh  and  Waterford,  the  Cahoes  Falls,  the  Shaker 
Bettlement  at  JNiskayuna,  &c.  furnish  points  for  short 
and  interesting  excursions. 

On  the  road  to  Troy,  the  first  object  which  usually 
attracts  the  attention  of  the  tourist  is  the  mansion  of 
Gen.  Stephen  Van  Rensselaer,  the  patroon  of  the 
manor  of  Rensselaerwick,*  M'hich  stands  at  the  north- 
ern extremity  of  Albany,  and  which  is  one  of  the  most 
elegant  situations  in  the  United  States.  The  munifi- 
cence  and  liberality  of  its  opulent  and  distinguished 
proprietor  are  proverbial.  There  are  few  charitable 
or  scientific  institutions  in  the  state  of  which  he  is  not 
a  benefactor  ;  and  he  has  probably  contributed  more 
than  any  other  citizen  towards  the  fostering  of  agricul- 
tural and  literary  improvements. 

The  McAdamized  Road  between  Albany  and  Wa- 
tervliet,  opposite  Troy,  commences  at  this  place.  It 
runs  parallel  with  the  Erie  canal,  near  its  western  bank, 
is  between  5  and  6  miles  long,  of  a  width  sufficient  for 
three  carriages  to  run  abreast,  and  is  one  of  the  most 
elegant  roads  on  the  continent.  The  vales  and  hills 
through  which  it  passes  have  been  sufficiently  elevated 
or  depressed  to  afford  either  a  level  or  a  very  moderate 


*  This  manor  comprises  a  creat  portion  of  the  conn- 
ties  of  Albany  and  Rensselaer — the  city  and  several 
patents  excepted, 


142 


U.  3.  ARSENAL. 


*«  -.f 


,'i:        i| 


111     i 


inclination  ;  so  that  the  speed  of  a  carriage  over  the 
whole  is  uninterrupted.  It  is  the  property  of  an  incor- 
porated company,  who  have  expended  between  $90,000 
and  $100,000  in  its  construction. 

Five  miles  from  Albany  is  the  U.  S.  Arsenal,  con- 
sisting of  handsome  brick  and  stone  buildings,  beau- 
tifully located  on  the  western  bank  of  the  Hudson. 
There  is  here  a  large  quantity  of  arms  and  munitions 
of  war,  with  workshops  for  repairing  them,  manufac- 
turing locks,  &c.  The  muskets,  bayonets,  swords  and 
pistols  are  arranged  in  a  portion  of  it  with  great  taste 
and  kept  in  fine  order.  Among  the  cannon  in  the  yard 
are  four  12  pounders,  one  24,  and  one  howitzer,  taken 
at  Saratoga ;  four  12's  and  one  howitzer,  taken  at  York- 
town  ;  two  long  antique  pieces  and  one  eight  inch  mor- 
tar, taken  at  Stoney  Point ;  two  old  French  4  pounders 
and  14  guns,  sent  by  Louis  XVI.  to  the  continental 
congress  in  the  revolution — all  of  brass,  and  most  of 
them  highly  ornamented,  with  each  an  individual  name 
and  the  inscription  "ultima  ratio  regium."  There  are 
also  three  or  four  howitzers  cast  in  New- York  and 
Philadelphia  in  the  revolution,  some  of  tlie  oldest  spe- 
cimens of  this  manufacture  in  the  country,  and  bearing 
the  initials  U.  C.  for  United  Colonies, 

Haifa  mile  further  is  the  village  of  Watervliet,  or 
rather  from  the  Arsenal  to  and  including  West  Troy  or 
Port  Schuyler,  is  a  continuous  village,  which  has  rap- 
idly increased  within  a  short  period. 

From  Watervliet,  there  are  two  routes  to  Waterford  ; 
one  leading  through  Troy  and  Lansingburgh,  and  the 
other  by  the  Junction  of  the  Erie  and  Northern  canals 


-.«i^».>i5iiiajit»i  .iaoi-  - 


CITT  OF  TROT. 


143 


ovftr  the 

an  incor- 

n  $90,000 

NAL,  con- 
gs,  beau- 
Hudson, 
nunitions 
manufac- 
^ords  and 
•cat  taste 
the  yard 
,er,  taken 
at  York- 
lich  mor- 
poundera 
ntinental 
most  of 
lal  name 
here  are 
ork  and 
est  spe- 
bearing 

ILIET,  or 
I  Troy  or 
las  rap- 

Iterford ; 
land  the 
canala 


p. 


and  the  Cahoca  falls  ;  one  of  which  can  be  taken  in 
£«iror  from,  and  the  other  in  returning  to  Albany. 

The  Troy  and  Lansingburgk  route. 
The  Hudson,  which  is  here  about  one  fourth  of  a  mile 
wide,  is  crossed  in  a  horse  ferry-boat  from  Watervliet 
to  the 

City  of  Trot.  It  is  bounded  on  the  east  by  a  range 
of  hills  rising:  abruptly  from  the  alhivial  plain  on  which 
the  city  is  situated,  extending  to  the  Hudson  river.  In 
point  of  location  and  beautiful  natural  scenery,  Troy  ia 
exceeded  by  few,  if  any,  of  the  towns  and  villages  on 
the  Hudson.  The  streets,  running  north  and  south, 
converge  together  at  the  north  end  of  the  city,  and  are 
crossed  at  right  angles  hj  those  running  east  and  west. 
The  buildings  are  principally  built  of  brick,  and  are 
shaded  by  rows  of  trees  on  each  side  of  the  streets 
which  are  preserved  remarkably  clean,  by  additions  of 
slate  and  gravel,  instead  of  pavements.  The  city  con- 
taiis  three  banks,  seven  churches,  a  court  house,  jail 
an  I  market.  The  Episcopal  church  is  a  superb  speci- 
men of  Gothic  architecture,  probably  not  exceeded  in 
the  United  States.  It  has  a  venerable  and  imposing 
appearance,  and  needs  nothing  but  a  quantity  of  moss 
and  ivy  to  make  it  the  picture  of  one  of  those  ancient 
abbeys  so  often  to  be  met  with  in  the  writings  of  Sir 
\  /alter  Scott.  A  large  three  story  brick  building  has 
tlso  been  erected  at  the  expense  of  the  corporation,  for 
the  accommodation  of  the  female  seminary  incorporat- 
ed at  this  place.  This  institution  i^  ader  the  govern- 
ment of  a  female  principal  (Mrs.  Willard)  and  several 
Bisistants,  whose  exertions  have  given  it  a  deserved 

m2 


"^"'.'■p'r."H'."".^' 


i 


lU 


l.ANHlNCiBUllCTl  —  WATKHFOIID. 


¥ 


crlobiity  ovcm-  siiviilar  inslitutionn  in  the  stnto.  Thor*^ 
are  nnnvally  odiiofttod  nt  this  soiniiuiry  from  60  to  HO 
IbumloR.  Tlio  rri(Mi(Iy  of  liliMnluro  havo  alpo  r'stal>liflh- 
0(1  a  liyreiiiu  at  (lii?«  phu-n  ;  wliicli,  ihonj'h  of  rrmil 
oriij^in,  proiniscH  nuuh  advniitajjo  jukI  usrfuhM'Sfl  to  its 
palronp.     T\\o  po|nil;ition  of  Troy  in  IH.'.O,  was  11,005. 

Mov)}t  I(la,\n  tho  roar  of  Troy,  is  a  vomantic  ppot, 
aOlmlin^  a  very  oxtonsivo  prospect  of  i\w  Hudson  rivor 
and  tho  adjncrnt  coimtry. 

Ahont  a  niilo  ahovo  Iho  rity,  adatn  hns  boon  thrown 
nrross  tlvc  river,  and  a  look  eonslrnetod,  afVording  a 
ploop  naviixntion  to  the  villa«ro  of  Waterford. 

One  m\\o  and  a  lialf  from  Troy  is  tho  Ronssolaor 
school,  wh'eh  was  estahhshed  hy,and  is  under  tl»e  pat- 
ronag^o  of  Gen.  Steplien  Van  Rensselaer.  It  is  a  valu- 
able and  llourishinix  institution. 


n 


ii^^h 


i 


LANsiNnnuivGTi,  three  miles  from  Troy,  is  principally 
bnilt  on  a  sinijlo  strec^t,  rnnninti  parallel  witii  tho  rivor. 
A  hiirh  hill  rises  abruptly  behind  the  village,  on  which 
is  scon  tho  ceh^brated  diamond  rock,  which  at  times 
emits  a  brilliant  lustre  from  tho  roOected  rava  of  the 
sun.  The  appi^aranco  of  I.ansin^btnT^h  by  no  moans 
indicates  a  hi^^h  state  of  prosperity,  thouo;h  it  contains 
Boveral  very  handsome  private  n^sidences.  The  villago 
has  a  bank,  two  places  of  public  worship,  and  an  acad- 
emy. Its  population  in  18.*50,  was  260.3.  About  a  mile 
north,  a  well  built  and  liandsomo  bridge  extends  across 
the  Hudson  river  to  the  village  of 

Waterford.  This  village  is  situated  at  the  junc- 
tion of  the  Mohawk  with  the  Hudson,  and  derives  con- 


j^*»*^ii*,' 


^,!*-*«»-- 


COIIOF.S    FALLS. 


145 


60  to  HO 
'stahlinli- 
)f  roroiit 

9  11,005. 
itic  flpot, 
son  rivor 

1  tlirown 
onling  tt 

Missolnor 
•  the  pjit- 
H  a  vnlu- 


inripnlly 
10  livrr. 

11  M'liich 
t  tiniofli 

of  tllG 

moans 
ontains 

village 
n  acad- 

a  mile 

across 


jnnc- 
09  con- 


liflornhlo  importonco  from  tho  navigation  of  small  ves- 
•ola,  which,  by  moans  of  the  lock  and  dam  below,  at 
most  soa^ons  of  the  yoar  arrive  and  depart  to  and  from 
itH  (IocUh.  The  village  contained  in  18.'i0,  a  population 
of  1  17;^  inhabitants,  it  enjoys  many  advantages  for 
trade,  and  its  irni)ortance  is  mneli  increased  by  tho 
northern  canal,  which  connnunicatos  witii  the  Hudson 
river  at  this  place. 

Thr.  Junction  and  Cnhncn  roufr. 

From  Watervliet  to  VVatorford,  by  the  C'ohoes  falls, 
tho  distance  is  about  tho  same  as  by  Troy,  (4  miles.) 
West  Troy  or  Port  Schuyler,  which  may  be  consider- 
ed a  continuation  of  Watervliet,  owes  its  ori<,nn  and 
growth  to  the  J*>ie  canal,  whieh  passes  through  the  vil- 
laffo,  and  from  which  there  is  a  side  cut  to  a  busin  in 
the  river. 

The  .TiJisrcTioN  of  the  Erie  and  Northern  canals  is 
two  miles  farthor.  Hero,  within  the  space  of  three 
qnart«'rs  of  a  mile,  am  17  locks;  and  the  number  of 
boats  constantly  passing  through,  present  a  spectacle 
of  activity  and  business  of  a  novel  character,  to  ono 
who  has  never  witnessed  canal  navigation.  Tho  locks 
are  of  tho  best  workmansiiip,  and  are  justly  ranked 
among  the  most  important  works  on  the  canal.  About 
a  mile  farther,  the  Mohawk  river  is  crossed  by  an  ex- 
cellent bridge  in  full  view  of  the 

CoTiOES  Falls,  which  are  a  short  distance  above. 
The  perpendicular  fall  is  about  40,  and  including  tho 
descent  above,  about  70  feet.  The  lofty  barrier  of 
rocks  which  confine  the  course  of  the  Mohawk — the 


,'1 


;UU 


:  i 


I4G 


TAN    SCWAICK's  island. 


distant  roar  of  the  cataract — the  dashing  of  the  watfri 
as  they  descend  in  rapids  beneath  you — and  the  strik- 
ing contrast  of  the  torrent  with  the  soUtude  of  the 
sconery  abovo,  contribute  to  render  the  wlicle  an  unu- 
sual scene  of  subliniity  and  grandeur.  An  old  tradition 
states,  that  a  chief  of  the  Mohawks  attempting  to  cross 
in  his  canoe,  embarked  too  near  the  current  of  the  fulls 
to  escape  their  descent.  Finding  himself  unable  to  re- 
sist the  influence  of  the  current,  which  hurried  him  fast 
to  the  summit,  with  true  Indian  heroism,  he  turned  bis 
canoe  into  the  stream,  assiuned  bis  station  at  the  heim, 
and  with  a  paddle  in  one  hand  and  his  bottle  in  the  oth- 
er, was  precipitated  over  the  brink.  It  was  in  taking  a 
view  of  these  falls,  about  33  years  since,  that  tho  po;>t 
Moore  composed  one  of  hir<  best  fugitive  pieces.  In- 
deed, the  scenery  and  every  thing  connected  w'ith  this 
interesting  spot,  are  calculated  'io  afford  ample  subj-  eta 
for  the  poet  and  painter. 

Between  this  place  and  P^chenectady,  (notict  d  in  a 
subsequent  page,)  the  canal  is  carried  twice  acrr.ss  the 
Mohawk.  The  lower  aqueduct,  as  it  is  called,  2  J  miles 
from  the  falls,  is  1188  feet  long,  and  rests  on  20  stone 
piers  and  abutments- -the  other  aqueduct,  12  miles  fur- 
ther, is  750  feet  long,  and  rests  on  16  piers.  These 
works  were  completed  at  great  expense,  and  must  hava 
required  immense  labor. 

From  the  falls  to  Waterford  (noticed  at  page  144)  is 
one  mile. 

Van  Schaick's  Island  is  situated  in  the  vicinity  of 
Waterford,  and  is  formed  by  the  sprouts  of  the  Mo- 
hawk river  joining  with  the  Hudson  river,  9  miles  north 


h^'-M 


-'^•«f»"M.i 


r^T?Wt*,'t!iy';'''"t.i 


S71AKKK    f^r.TTLF.Mr.NT. 


147 


the  watorn 
I  the  strik- 
de  of  the 
Ic  an  unu- 
d  tradition 
ig  to  cross 
)f  tl>c  fulls 
able  to  ro- 
d  him  fast 
turned  his 

the  heini, 
in  the  oth- 
n  takinfr  n 
it  the  po;>t 
eccF.     l':\- 

witli  this 
le  suhj-  ct3 

)tic(  d  in  a 
cross  the 
,  ?J  niilrs 
2G  stone 
ih"'s  fur- 
These 
list  have 

|e  144;  is 


Icinity  of 

Ihe  Mo- 

?s  north 


of  Albany.  This  spot  is  noted  for  being  the  head  quar- 
ters of  the  American  army  in  1777  ;  from  whence  they 
marched,  in  September  of  the  same  year,  to  the  decisive 
victory  over  Burffoyne,  at  Bemus'  Heights. 

The  Shaker  settlement  at  Niskayuna,  is  8  miles 
north-wost  of  Albany.  A  visit  to  these  singular  peo- 
ple is  will  deserving  the  attention  of  the  traveller.  The 
Shakers  are  the  followers  of  Ann  Lee,  called  by  them 
Mother  Ann,  a  religious  enthusiast,  who  was  born  in 
England  some  time  antecedent  to  the  revolutionary 
war,  and  while  yet  in  her  youth,  suffered  much  tribula- 
t'on  and  deep  exercises  of  spirit,  in  her  conversion 
fn  m  the  sin  of  this  world  to  a  state  of  greater  perfec- 
tion. She  endured  severe  trials  and  much  persecu- 
tion, according  to  her  own  account,  from  her  country- 
men ;  b;^t  was  afterwards  favored  with  visions  and 
an  exhibition  of  miracles  in  her  favor.  Although  in 
early  life  herself  the  wife  of  a  poor  blacksmith,  the 
principal  tenet  of  her  cre(>d  is  absolute  and  entire  celib- 
acy, which  is  defended  on  various  spiritual  grounds, 
and  fully  set  forth  in  a  work  recently  published  by  the 
society.  In  consequence  of  the  persecutions  experi- 
enced by  Mother  Ann  in  England,  she  came  to  this 
country  and  established  a  small  society  which  has  been 
followed  by  the  establishment  of  others,  of  which  this  is 
one.  Her  followers  regard  her  memory  with  pious 
veneration,  and  consider  themselves  as  the  only  people 
in  possession  of  the  true  light.  Some  of  the  oldest  and 
most  perfect  members,  it  is  said,  pretend  to  "  speak 
with  tongues,"  heal  diseases  by  a  touch,  &.c.  The 
marriage  contract  is  dissolved  on  joining  their  society  ; 


/ 


# 

s 


I 


M8 


IHAKF.n   SRTTl.FMF.NT. 


their  association  is  a  perfect  community  of  jjoods,  all 
private  property  being  thrown  into  the  common  stock, 
and  they  profess  to  banish  the  love  of  ambition,  wealth 
and  luxury  frc.n  their  ploomy  territories. 

They  own  at  this  place  two  thousand  acres  of  excel- 
lent land,  laid  out  and  k'^pt  in  the  ordi^r,  neatness  and 
cleanliness,  which  always  distinouish  their  sert.  This 
is  divided  into  four  farms,  or  families,  as  they  are  call- 
ed, occupied  by  about  seventy-five  pcrsorf?  each,  of 
both  sexes  an^  all  ages.  They  cultivate  garden  stuffs, 
seeds,  &c.  for  sale,  as  well  as  every  thing  necessary  for 
their  own  support,  and  they  manufacture  various  use- 
ful and  ornamental  articles.  These,  as  well  as  the  sur- 
plus produce  of  the  farm,  are  sold,  and  the  avails  de- 
posited in  one  of  the  Albany  banks  until  required. 
The  division  of  labor  which  they  carry  into  practice, 
every  occupation  being  entrusted  to  separate  members, 
and  their  economical  habits  render  their  gains  very 
considerable.  The  men  work  as  farmers,  carpenters, 
shoemakers,  tailors,  &c. ;  the  women  at  weaving,  spin- 
ning, washing,  cooking,  and  in  tlie  duties  of  the  farm, 
making  and  mending  clothes,  the  occupations  of  each 
sex  being  performed  in  soparote  buildings.  They  also 
eat  sc^parately,  and  neither  of  tlu^m  will  sit  down  to  a 
meal  with  what  they  call  the  "world's  prople.'*  The 
dress  of  the  men  is  the  nsunl  qnaker  drab,  perfectly 
plain  ;  that  of  the  women  gr^y,  with  white  caps,  all 
made  as  plain  and  easy  a«  possible.  Tbey  all  have  a 
peculiar  walk,  hut  especially  the  frmnles,  in  conse- 
quence of  their  mode  of  worship,  from  which  they  de- 
rive the  name  of  Shakers — a  strange  and  disapreeablo 
mode  of  dancing,   accompanied  with  a  monotonoua 


'h       •!l 


"?ft"H|lii,-v-.».; 


h 


)?oods,  all 
ion  stock, 
on,  vvc-alth 

3  of  oxcel- 
tness  and 
;rt.     This 
y  are  call- 
?  each,  of 
Jen  stuffs, 
icssarv  for 
rious  nse- 
LS  the  sur- 
avails  de- 
required. 
I  practice, 
members, 
ains  very 
irpenters, 
insr,  spin- 
the  farm, 
s  of  each 
liry  also 
own  to  a 
The 
lorfcctly 
cfips,  all 
1  have  a 
conse- 
they  de- 
preeable 
otonoua 


SHAKER    SETTLEMENT. 


149 


song 


The  yotmg  members  of  the  community  are  reg- 
ularly taught  the  steps  in  this  dance  by  the  older  ones, 
before  they  are  permitted  to  join  in  public  w^orship.  It 
is  usual  before  the  admission  of  a  member  to  all  the 
privileges  of  the  society,  to  impose  a  noviciate  of  three, 
months,  when,  if  he  so  desires,  he  may  leave  them  ;  if 
not,  he  is  regularly  admitted  a  member,  and  thvows  his 
property  into  the  common  stock. 

Notwithstanding  the  severity  of  their  discipline  as  to 
celibacy,  it  is  said  the  harmony  of  their  society  was 
lately  much  disturbed  in  consequence  of  a  "love  affair." 
A  younu  man  and  woman,  both  belonging  to  the  soci- 
ety, in  desp  te  of  th*^  doctrines  of  their  leader,  fell  from 
their  estate  of  "single  blessedne^?.,"  and  yielded  to  a 
worldly  attachment.  This  heresy,  as  might  be  expect- 
ed, produced  considerable  commotion.  The  members 
wrestled  with  the  tempter,  and  the  elders  prayed  for 
and  with  the  victims  to  the  dreaded  enemy  of  the  sect  ; 
but  all  to  no  purpose.  They  left  the  society  and  were 
married.  It  is  creditable,  however,  to  the  members,  that 
after  finding  their  efforts  to  prevent  this  result  unavail- 
ing, they  sent  the  happy  pair  sufficient  furniture  for 
comfortable  house-keeping,  assigning  as  a  reason  that 
they  had  labored  for  the  society,  and  that  it  was  no 
more  than  justice  to  reward  them.* 

Stages  leave  iVlbany  daily  for  Lebanon  Springs  and 
Boston  ;  and 


*  Since  the  foregoing  event,  we  are  told  another  de- 
reliction from  the  rules  of  Mother  Ann  has  taken  place 
in  the  society,  which  also  resulted  in  marriage. 


150 


FROM   ALBAN'T  TO  SARATOGA  SPRINGS. 


m 


Steam  Boats  leave  for  New- York  at  7  A.  M.  and 
4  P.  M. 

FROM  ALBANY  TO  SARATOGA  SPRINGS. 

By  Rail  Road.* 
The  distance  from  Albany  to  Saratoga  Springs  is 
36^  miles,  as  follows  : 


J\Iiles. 
From  Albany  to  Du- 
el's Farm, 3 

Schenectady, 12 


jyfiles, 

Ballpton  liakc, 10 

Ballston  Spa, 5 

Saratoga  Springs, , . ,     €i 


The  route  is  by  the  way  of  the  Mohawk  and  Hud- 
son and  the  Saratoga  and  Schenectady  rail  roads,  the 
line  being  continuous  to  Saratoga  Springs,  and  a  pas- 
eage  effected  in  about  three  hours.  The  carriages  of 
the  Mohawk  and  Hudson  company  start  several  times 
a  day  from  the  depot  on  the  north  side  of  State  street, 
a  little  below  the  Capitol  Square  in  Albany,  and  the 
trains  on  the  Saratoga  and  Schenectady  road  are  made 
to  correspond  therewith.  By  means  of  these  improve- 
ments, a  ride  to  the  Springs,  which  was  formerly  tardy, 
and  attended  with  clouds  of  dust  and  much  fatigue  and 
lassitude  of  body,  now  constitutes  one  of  the  greatest 
sources  of  novelty  and  pleasure  in  a  visit  to  those  cele- 
brated fountains  of  health.  Freed  from  all  care  or  ap- 
prehension of  danger,  the  t.-avellcr  glides  through  a 
a  country  diversified  with  much  interesting  scenery. 


I 


]'      'i 


*  Since  the  completion  of  the  rail  roads,  this  is  the 
usual  route  now  taken  from  Albany  to  Whitehall, 
Montreal,  &c.  the  distance  being  about  the  same  as  by 
the  old  road,  and  the  route  being  performed  several 
hours  sooner. 


.  M.  and 


RINGS. 

Ipringa  ia 

Miles, 
]0 

•  •  •  •        O 

a,...      (ij 

nd  Hud- 

roads,  the 

nd  a  pas- 

rriagcs  of 

jral  times 

ite  street, 

and  the 

re  made 

[improve- 

ly  tardy, 

gue  and 

greatest 

se  cele- 

re  or  ap- 

[rough  a 

cenery, 


s  is  the 
litehall, 
|e  as  by 
Iseveral 


MOHAWK  AND  nUDSON   RAIL  ROAD. 


151 


encountering  in  his  course,  from  the  rapidity  of  the  mo- 
tion, a  current  of  air  sutficient  to  render  even  a  sum- 
mer's sun  agreeable,  and  finds  himself  at  the  far-famed 
Saratoga,  ere  he  is  awa^o  that  it  is  possible  ho  can  have 
overcome  the  distance  in  so  short  a  space  of  time. 

The  Mohawk  and  Hudson  Rail  Road,  was  com- 
menced in  the  summer  of  1830,  and  a  single  track  so 
far  completed,  that  passengers  were  conveyed  over  124 
miles  thereof  in  one  year  thereafter.  Since  then,  a 
second  track  has  been  made,  and  a  branch  constructed 
from  State  street  in  Albany,  which  unites  with  the 
main  road,  about  2^  miles  from  the  city.  The  main 
line  commences  on  the  Hudson  river,  about  a  mile 
south  of  State  street,  and  crosses  South  Pearl  street, 
under  a  fine  stone  arch  of  durable  materials  and  hand- 
some construction  ;  from  whence  it  passes  up  the 
hill  with  an  inclination  of  one  foot  in  eighteen  until  it 
reaches  the  summit,  one  hundred  and  eighty-five  feet 
above  the  Hudson.  At  this  place  a  building  is  erected 
which  contains  a  double  stationary  engine,  estimated 
at  twelve  horse  power,  which  is  used  in  hauling  freight 
waggons  up  the  plane. 

The  road  then  proceeds  north-westerly  up  to  the 
head  of  Lydius  street,  and  passes  over  two  heavy  and 
high  embankments,  and  through  two  or  three  deep  cut- 
tings near  the  alms-house. 

From  the  head  of  Lydius  street,  it  proceeds  in  a  per- 
fectly straight  line,  (with  the  exception  of  a  small  curve, 
which,  with  most  people,  passes  unnoticed,)  for  12 
miles,  crossing  the  heavy  embankment  called  the  Buel 
viaduct,  and  ascending  a  plane  for  about  three  miles,  of 
one  foot  in  225.   Afterwards  ascending  by  two  or  three 


f 


VP 


mmm 


152 


MOHAWK  ANU  HUDSON  RAIL  ROAD. 


vf' 


I 


other  planes  of  different  points,  and  crossing  several 
water-ways  upon  embankments,  it  proceeds  to  the 
Schenccta  ly  summit.  The  asscent  to  this  summit  from 
the  level  of  the  Hudson  is  335  feet.  At  this  point,  to 
which  we  have  in  imagination  conducted  our  readers, 
a  beautifulview  is  obtained  of  the  canal,  the  Mohawk 
river,  and  the  city  of  Schenectady.  A  double  stationary 
engine  is  placed  here  and  may  thus  be  described :  In 
the  cellar  of  a  house  which  is  built  on  stone  foundations 
across  the  road,  and  on  the  north  side,  are  placed  the 
boilers.  The  steam  is  conducted  into  two  horizontal 
cylinders,  firmly  secured,  7i  inches  in  diameter.  The 
shackle  bars  are  connected  with  an  axle,  on  the  extrem- 
ity of  which  is  a  crown  wheel,  working  in  another  at 
right  angles,  on  a  shaft  placed  vertically.  This  vertical 
shaft  carries  at  its  upper  end,  which  is  near  the  surface 
of  the  road  and  directly  in  its  centre,  a  large  wheel, 
around  the  circumference  of  which  the  hauling  ropes 
pass,  and  run  on  rollers  placed  at  regular  distances 
down  the  plane.  The  plane  overcomes  a  height  of  1 1 5 
feet,  with  an  inclination  like  that  near  the  Hudson, 
and  running  down  a  heavy  embankment,  strikes  the 
Saratoga  and  Schenectady  rail  road  and  the  Erie  canal 
about  half  a  mile  from  the  principal  street  in  Schenec- 
tady ;  but  the  track  is  prolonged  upon  a  level  to  State 
street,  opposite  Davis'  Hotel. 

The  soil  through  which  the  road  passes  is  generally 
sandy.  Some  considerable  elevations  are  cut  through, 
and  several  ravines  crossed.  The  slopes  left  by  the 
cutting  or  formed  by  the  embankment,  are  mostly  cov- 
ered by  sods.     No  settling  of  the  road  has  taken  place 


vP&WWitir-'i-^y-*-- 


duel's  farm. 


153 


li 


except  to  a  v<  /  slight  degree  in  some  of  the  embank- 
ments, which  is  easily  rfectilicd. 

With  the  exception  of  the  embankments,  stone  blocks 
are  principally  used  to  support  the  rails,  which  are  Nor- 
way pino,  phitod  with  iron.  The  blocks  rest  on  broken 
stone  well  rammed  down  in  trenches  ;  and  the  entire 
workmansliip  of  the  road,  which  was  under  the  direc- 
tion of  J.  B.  Jcrvis,  I^sq.  as  -i^ngincer,  is  probably  not 
surpassed  by  any  construction  of  the  kind  in  this  coun- 
try or  Europe. 

Passengers  are  carried  upon  this  road  in  coaches, 
drawn  by  horses,  and  by  locomotive  engines. 

A  part  of  the  coaches  are  built  like  the  common  post 
coaches,  peculiar  to  our  own  country,  carrying  from  9 
to  12  passengers  ;  and  a  part  are  constructed  some- 
what similar  to  those  used  on  the  Manchester  and  Liv- 
erpool road,  accommodating  from  18  to  24  passengers 
each,  divided  into  apartments  of  six  or  eight. 

The  entire  cost  of  this  road  has  been  between  eight 
and  nine  hundred  thousand  dollars. 

The  Farm  of  Jesse  Buel,  Esq.  is  crossed  by  the 
rail  road,  about  three  miles  from  Albany.  It  consists 
of  80  acres,  has  been  wholly  reclaimed  from  commons 
since  1818,  and  is  now  under  profitable  cultivation. 
Mr.  B.'s  improvements  consist  in  selecting  the  best  im- 
plements adapted  to  his  soil — in  substituting  fallow 
crops  for  naked  fallows — in  extensively  and  successful- 
ly cultivating  the  Swedish  and  common  turnip  as  a 
second  crop,  after  clover  and  small  grains — in  introdu- 
cing new  and  valuable  grasses — in  the  cultivation  of 
live  fences,  which  he  has  growing  of  the  white  Europe- 
an thorn,  of  the  native  thorn  of  our  woods,  and  of  the 


i\  ?l 


<X': 


!1  ;h 


154 


SCHENECTADY. 


three  thorned  or  honey  locust — and  in  the  economy 
and  application  of  ordinary,  and  the  use  of  new  ma- 
nures. His  object  has  been  to  grow  only  good  crops, 
and  these  with  the  least  expense.  In  1827,  he  sold 
from  64  acres  in  tillage  and  grass,  under  farm  culture, 
produce  to  the  amount  of  more  than  $1500,  exclusive  of 
the  consumption  of  a  large  family.  His  kitchen  and 
flower  gardens,  abounding  in  the  finest  native  and  for- 
eign fruits,  ornamental  trees,  shrubs  and  flowers,  will 
also  bs  visited  with  interest.    Upon  the  same  farm  is  the 

Albany  Nursery,  which  is  under  the  management 
of  Messrs.  Buel  &  Wilson.  It  already  covers  10  or  12 
acres,  and  is  extended  annually,  embracing  not  only 
the  most  choice  American  fruits  and  ornamental  plants, 
but  also  the  finer  varieties  of  France,  Germany,  Eng- 
land, &c.  many  of  which  have  been  received  from  the 
London  Horticultural  Society,  of  which  Mr.  B.  was 
elected  a  corresponding  member  in  1824.  Attached  to 
this  establishment  is  a  green  house,  containing  an  ex- 
tensive collection  of  beautiful  exotics,  among  which 
are  several  varieties  of  the  splendid  Cornelia  or  Japan 
rose,  and  other  rare  Asiatic  plants.  There  are  few 
establishments  of  the  kind,  indeed,  in  the  country,  pos- 
sessing more  interest,  or  entitling  their  proprietors  to 
greater  commendation. 

SCHENECTADY, 

Fifteen  miles  from  Albany,  and  21 J  from  Saratoga 
Springs,  is  situated  on  the  Mohawk,  a  broad  and  beau- 
tiful river,  which  forms  its  northern  boundary.  It  was 
burnt  by  the  Indians  1690,  and  suffered  a  considerable 


WF^^SIH^I- 


SCHEMKCTADY. 


155 


economy 
new  ma- 
)d  crops, 

he  sold 
I  culture, 
;lusive  of 
;hen  and 

and  for- 
mers, will 
rm  is  the 

agement 

10  or  12 

not  only 

il  plants, 

ly,  Eng- 

from  the 

1  B.  was 

ached  to 

an  ex- 

which 

Japan 

are  few 

;ry,  pos- 

etors  to 


aratoga 
i  beau- 
It  was 
ierable 


conflagration  in  1819,  since  which  event  the  antique 
appearance  of  tho  <!ity  has  been  much  improved  by  the 
introduction  of  modern  architecture.  Tho  principal  Ho- 
tf^l  is  kept  by  Mr.  Davis,  (formeily  Given's,)  in  the 
south-east  part  of  the  citv  and  vvithin  a  few  rods  nf  the 
Erie  canal.  The  building  is  constructed  of  biick,  50 
feet  front,  and  with  its  wing,  2  stories  high,  exclusive  of 
the  basement  story,  extends  back  150  feet.  The  main 
building  is  3  stories  in  hei';.ht,  besides  an  attic  story, 
containing  an  apartment  for  a  a  billiard  room.  From 
this  elevated  spot  a  view  may  be  had  of  the  city  and  its 
environs,  of  the  Mohawk  and  of  the  canal  for  some  dis- 
tance, and  of  the  rich  and  variegated  landscape  which 
spreads  on  the  south  and  west  of  the  city.  The  Hotel 
can  accommodate  130  guests ;  and  they  receive  every  at- 
tention and  accommodation  that  can  contribute  to  their 
convenience  and  amusement.  Union  College  is  built 
on  an  eminence,  which  ov>^rlooks  the  city  and  the  Mo- 
hawk for  a  number  of  miles.  The  college  consists  at 
present  of  two  brick  edifices,  but  the  plan  includes  a 
chapel  and  other  buildings  hereafter  to  be  erected,  in 
tha  rear,  and  between  those  already  constructed.  At 
this  institution  about  200  students  are  educated  annu- 
ally. The  expense  per  annum  is  $130.  In  numbers 
and  respectability  Union  College  may  be  ranked  among 
the  most  favored  seminaries  in  our  country.  A  hand- 
some brid.^e  has  been  constructed  across  the  ]Mohawk, 
at  the  west  end  of  the  city,  997  feet  in  length,  and  is 
passed  by  tl  e  Saratoga  and  Schenectady  Rail  Road  and 
by  the  stuge  on  its  route  to  Utica. 


r 


k2 


156 


lARAIOGA  AMD  ICnSXBCTADT  RAIL  ROAD. 


\ 


'.  ;        h> 


M 


f.: 


M 


The  city  contain^  9  banks,  3  printing  offices,  G 
churches,  a  spacious  and  handsome  city  hail,  and  u 
population  of  about  5000  inhabitants. 

At  Schenectady,  stages  and  packet  boats  leave  three 
times  a  day  for  Utica,  the  route  to  which  is  noticed  in 
the  subsequent  pages  of  this  work. 

The  Saratoga  and  Schenectady  Rail  Road  com- 
mences on  the  north  side  of  the  Erie  canal,  in  Sche- 
nectady, near  the  Mohawk  and  Hudson  road,  (with 
which  it  is  connected  by  a  bridge,)  and  extends  across 
the  city  through  an  excavation  about  12  feet  deep, 
which  is  walled  on  either  side,  to  the  Mohawk  bridge 
over  the  Mohawk  river.  A  double  track  is  made  on 
the  bridge,  so  that  no  interruption  or  inconvenience  is 
experienced  on  the  part  of  rail  road  or  other  passengers. 
From  the  bridge  the  road  extends  in  a  northerly  direc- 
tion over  an  embankment,  varying  from  8  to  25  feet  high, 
across  the  Mohawk  flats,  for  three  fourths  of  a  mile,  to 
a  sand  hill,  which  is  cut  through  at  a  depth  of  from  30 
to  40  feet.  From  thence  the  road  pursues  a  north-east- 
erly direction,  in  full  view  of  the  Mohawk  river,  until  it 
enters  the  valley  of  Eelplace  creek  ;  when  it  curves 
and  maintains  a  northerly  course,  passing  along  the 
elegant  and  verdant  banks  of  the  Ballston  Lake,  and 
enters  the  eastern  part  of  the  village  of  Ballston  Spa, 
on  a  curvature  of  considerable  extent.  From  this  point 
the  road  passes  in  a  northerly  direction  over  the  main 
street,  on  a  bridge  about  15  feet  high,  and  by  means  of 
a  heavy  embankment,  reaches  the  high  grounds  north 
of  the  village.  From  thence  a  north-easterly  course  is 
taken  across  the  Kayaderosseras  creek,  over  a  sub- 
stantial bridge,  and  continues  in  a  straight  line,  with 


1*1^ -(» 


AD. 

offices,  G 
all,  and  u 

eave  three 
noticed  in 

Load  com- 
I,  in  Sche- 
>ad,  (with 
nds  across 
feet  deep, 
wk  bridge 
I  made  on 
enience  is 
assen«xers. 
erly  dircc- 
» feet  high, 
a  mile,  to 
if  from  30 
lorth-east- 
r,  until  it 
it  curves 
long  the 
ake,  and 
ton  Spa, 
|this  point 
the  main 
Imeans  of 
ds  north 
Icourse  is 
a  sub- 
no,  with 


SAFi^TOOA    \X13  SCHSMttCTADT   RAIL  ROAD. 


157 


the  exception  of  two  slight  curves,  to  Saratoga  Springs. 
It  enters  the  latter  place  at  the  south-west  part  of  the 
village,  and  runs  for  a  short  distance  nearly  parallel 
with  the  main  street,  M'^hon  it  curves  up  to  the  same  on 
clevaled  ground  immcdiatrly  north  of  the  United  States 
Hotel,  and  in  full  view  of  the  principal  public  establish- 
ments. 

The  road  is  about  21  i  miles  long,  and  is  over  a  re- 
markably level  country,  not  requiring  the  use  of  sta- 
tionary power,  and  not  having  on  any  part  an  inclina- 
tion of  more  than  16  feet  per  mile.  With  the  excep- 
tion of  about  3  miles  of  stone  blocks,  near  Saratoga 
Springs,  the  road  is  made  of  substantial  and  durable 
wooden  materials,  saving  the  iron  rails. 

The  ceremony  of  first  breaking  the  ground  was  per- 
formed at  Saratoga  Springs,  by  the  Hon.  C.  C.  Cam- 
BRELKNG,  the  Prcsidcut  of  the  company,  on  the  20th 
of  August,  1831,  on  which  occasion  a  pertinent  address 
was  delivered  by  the  Hon.  Esek  Cowen,  and  the  work 
actively  commenced  about  the  10th  of  September  fol- 
lov/mg.  The  grading  was  well  advanced  in  the  au- 
tumn, and  carriages  placed  on  the  road  for  the  convey- 
ance of  passengers  on  the  1 2th  of  July  following.  The 
entire  cost  of  the  road,  including  carriages,  engines, 
fixtures,  lands,  &c.  was  about  $270,000. 

The  carriages  are  unusually  elegant  and  spacious, 
and  the  travel  has  already  much  exceeded  the  public 
expectations.  Indeed,  little  doubt  remains  of  the  road 
proving  an  advantageous  and  profitable  investment  to 
the  stockholders ;  for  besides  the  ordinary  summer  trav- 
el to  the  Springs,  which  is  annually  increasing,  and 
which  this  road  will  tend  very  much  to  augment,  it  is 


153 


BA!.T.«T0>J  spa. 


J      a 


..  1 


likely  to  provo  the  groM  tlioronirhfarp  bet  worn  Alhn!ir 
and  tho  Canadas.  One  half  of  the  dijJtanco  from  Alhn- 
ny  to  WhitHiall  on  T.aUn  Chnmplain,  by  this  routo,  ia 
overcome  by  rail  road  ;  and  t.h:^  distnnc^  being  about 
the  pame  as  by  the  old  trnvelled  road,  and  the  time  em- 
ployed in  passing  from  one  point  to  the  other  lrsprn'"d 
by  several  hours,  few  travellers  hesitate  in  giving  it  a 
decided  preference. 

Bat.lston  Imkf,,  or  Long  Lake,  as  it  is  sometimes 
called,  is  10  miles  from  Schenectady,  the  rail  road  pass- 
ing along  its  verdant  and  elegant  banks.    A  farm  house 
between  the  lake  and  road,  owned  by  ATr.  Elisha  Cur- 
tis, and  which  he  contemplates  fitting  up  for  the  accom- 
modation of  fishing  parties,  was  formerly  the  residence 
of  a  Mr.  M'Donald,  the  guide  of  Sir  AVilliam  Johnson, 
on  his  first  visit  to  the  mineral  springs  at  Saratoga,  in 
1767.     Mr.  M'D.  was  a  native  of  Ireland,  and  on  his 
first  arrival  in  America,  settled  with  his  brother,  in  1763, 
on  this  spot,  where  he  continued  to  reside  until  his  de- 
cease, in  1823.     Sir  William  passed  some  days  at  this 
house  at  the  time  of  the  vi^ut  above  mentioned.     The 
lake  is  a  beautiful  sheet  of  water,  5  miles  long  and  I 
broad.     The  scenery  around  afibrds  a  pleasing  land- 
scape of  cultivation  and  wood  lands,  no  less  inviting  to 
the  sportsman  than  the  soft  bosom  of  the  lake  and  its 
finny  inhabitants  to  the  anintcurs  of  the  rod. 

BALLSTON  SPA 

Is  5  milps  farther.  The  village  lies  in  the  town  of 
Milton,  in  the  comity  of  Saratoga  ;  and  is  situated  in  a 
low  valley,  through  the  centre  of  which  flows  a  branch 
of  the  Kayaderossoras,  with  whose  waters  it  mingles 


I 


■n»x_     .1 


nALLBTOM  HVA. 


150 


at  the  east  end  of  the  villajTo.  The  natural  boundurioi 
of  nullston  Spa  are  well  clofincd  hy  steep  and  lofty  hills 
of  sand  on  the  north  and  west,  and  by  a  ridge  of  land 
which  gradually  slopes  inward,  and  encircles  the  vil- 
lage on  the  south  and  east.  The  broad  and  amplo 
Kayadorosseras,  whose  stream  gives  motion  to  a  neigh- 
boring mill,  flows  on  the  north-east  boundary  of  tho 
village,  and  furnishes  a  favorite  resort  for  the  sports- 
man on  the  bosom  of  its  waters,  or  for  the  loiterer 
along  its  verdant  banks.  Th .  village  was  incorporated 
in  1807,  and  is  under  the  direction  of  a  board  of  trus- 
tees, who  are  chosen  annually.  It  contains  150  houses, 
and  about  1000  inhabitants.  Besides  the  court  house 
for  the  county,  and  the  clerk's  office,  which  are  located 
here,  there  is  an  Episcopal  and  a  Baptist  church,  two 
printing  offices  and  a  book-store,  with  which  a  reading 
room  is  connected  for  the  accommodation  of  visitants. 
Ballston  Spa  principally  derives  its  celebrity  from 
the  mineral  springs  which  flow  here  and  at  Saratoga 
in  equal  abundance.  The  spring  first  discovered  in  the 
vicinity,  stands  on  the  flat,  nearly  opposite  the  board- 
ing establishment  of  Mr.  Aid  ridge.  It  formerly  flowed 
out  of  a  common  barrel,  sunk  around  it,  without  any 
other  protection  from* the  invasion  of  cattle,  who  often 
slacked  their  thirst  in  its  fountain.  Afterwards  tho 
libcrnlity  of  the  citizens  was  displayed  in  a  marble  curb 
and  flagiiing,  and  a  han<lsoine  iron  railing.  The  curb 
and  flagging  were  finally  removed,  leaving  the  railing, 
which  still  serves  tho  purposes  of  ornament  and  pro- 
tection. Tho  spring  Hows  now,  probably,  from  the 
place  where  it  originally  issued,  some  feet  below  the 
surrounding  surface,  which  has  been  elevated  by  addi- 


•<) 


i'.-: 


*fi' 


'i'\ 


IGO 


BALLSTOS  SPA. 


tions  of  earth,  for  the  purpose  of  improving  the  road  in 
which  it  stands. 

Near  this  spring,  in  boring  four  or  five  years  since, 
a  mineral  fountain  called  the  New  Washington 
Spring,  was  discovered  at  a  considerable  depth  beneath 
the  surface.  Its  qualities  are  somewhat  similar  to  those 
of  the  spring  last  mentioned. 

The  Sans  Souci  Spring  is  situated  in  the  rear  of  the 
Sans  Souci,  and  is  considered  the  most  prominent  foun- 
tain in  the  village.  According  to  an  analysis  of  Doct. 
Steel,  one  gallon  of  the  water  contained  the  following 
ingredients:  cloride  of  sodium,  143-|  grs. ;  bicarbonate 
of  soda,  12i  grs.  ;  bicarbonate  of  magnesia,  39  grs. ; 
carbonate  of  lime,  nearly  6  grs.  ;  hydriodate  of  soda,  1^ 
grs  ;  silix,  1  gr  Near  this  fountain,  a  large  and  coni' 
modious  bathing  house  has  been  erected  ;  to  which, 
not  only  the  waters  of  this,  but  of  a  number  of  other 
adjacent  springs,  are  tributary,  for  the  purpose  of  bath- 
ing. Between  the  springs  already  mentioned,  there  was 
discovered  in  the  summer  of  1817,  a  mineral  spring, 
called  the  Vv^ashington  Fountain.  This  latter  spring 
rose  on  the  margin  of  the  creek  in  front  of  the  factory 
building ;  it  flowed  through  a  cwh  23  feet  in  length, 
sunk  to  the  depth  of  23  feet,  and*  was  liberated  at  the 
top  in  the  form  of  a  beautiful  jei  dPeau;  but  the  spring 
disappeared  in  1821.  Numerous  attempts  Jiave  since 
been  made  to  recover  it,  but  they  have  proved  fruitless. 

Low's  Spring  is  near  the  Sans  Souci,  and  is  very 
similar  in  its  qualities  and  properties. 

The  Park  Spring  is  in  the  rear  of  the  Village  Hotel, 
and  was  obtained  by  boring  to  a  depth  of  270  feet.  A 
copious  stream  flows  therefrom,  tastefully  displayed  in 


-&Bcfci' 


r^idi^sf--^ 


BALI.STON  SPA. 


161 


a  small  basin,  secured  at  the  top  of  the  tube  which  con- 
ducts the  water  to  the  surface.  The  water,  however, 
affords  much  less  of  the  saline  substances  than  either 
of  the  other  springs. 

The  principal  ingredients  of  these  waters  consist  of 
muriate  of  soda,  carbonate  of  soda,  carbonate  of  lime, 
carbonate  of  magnesia,  and  carbonate  of  iron ;  all  of 
which,  in  a  greater  or  less  degree,  enter  into  the  com- 
position of  the  waters,  both  here  and  at  Saratoga. 

The  principal  boarding  houses  are  the  Sans  Souci, 
Aldridge's,  the  Mansion  House,  and  the  Village  Hotel. 

The  Sans  Souci,  with  its  yards  and  out  houses,  oc- 
cupies an  area  of  some  acres  in  the  cast  part  of  the  vil- 
lage. The  plan  of  the  building,  with  the  extensive  im- 
provements around  it,  do  much  credit  to  the  taste  and 
hberality  of  its  proprietor.  The  establishment  was  for- 
merly the  property  of  a  Mr.  Low,  of  New- York  ;  from 
whom  it  passed  into  the  hands  of  Mr.  Loomis,  its 
present  owner,  and  under  whose  management  the  most 
entire  satisfaction  is  given  to  its  annual  visitants.  The 
edifice  is  constructed  of  wood,  three  stories  high,  160 
feet  in  length,  with  two  Mings  extending  back  153  feet, 
and  is  calculated  for  the  accommodation  of  130  board- 
ers. It  is  surrounded  by  a  beautiful  yard,  ornamented 
with  a  variety  of  trees  and  shrubbery,  which,  with  its 
extensive  piazzas  and  spacious  halls,  render  it  a  de- 
lightful retreat  during  the  oppressive  heat  of  summer. 

Aldridge's  Boarding  house,  with  which  is  connect- 
ed an  extensive  garden,  at  the  west  end  of  the  vil- 
lage, affords  excellent  accommodations,  and  receives 
a  handsome  patronage.  Its  more  retired  location,  and 
the  profusion  of  rural  scenery  around  it,  as  well  as 


ir; 


l'< 


rv  . 


ii  !■  ^' 


.«< 


'¥  » 


1^1 


I  Mm.  fi:  '^5 

ml  \^  '^' 

ill-       ^' 


iiJ 


162 


BALLSrON  SPA. 


the  deserved  reputation  of  the  eetabhshment,  will  al- 
ways determine  the  choice  of  a  portion  of  visitants  dur- 
ing their  transient  residence  at  the  Springs. 

The  Mansion  House,  kept  by  Mr.  Seamnn,  is  loca- 
ted immediately  cast  of  the  rail  road  bridge  which  cross- 
es the  main  street.  It  is  one  of  the  best  public  houses 
in  the  Ci.  it  -is  well  furnished,  and  kept  in  a  style 
highly  ciiu, !(.;!,!>!  to  its  popular  tenant. 

The  Village  L  el,  is  in  a  convenient  situation  a 
few  rods  west  of  the  Sans  Souci.  It  is  kept  by  the 
proprietor,  Mr.  Clark,  and  is  in  every  respect  an  agree- 
able and  pleasant  boarding  place,  worthy  of  the  patron- 
age of  strangers. 

Mrs.  M'Master's,  is  a  private  boarding  house,  sit- 
uated adjacent  to  the  spring  on  the  flat  in  the  west 
part  of  the  village.  Those  who  are  fond  of  a  retired 
situation,  will  be  much  gratified  at  this  place,  and  with- 
al will  find  a  hospitable  hostess,  and  very  excellent  ac- 
commodations, at  a  moderate  price. 

The  price  of  board  per  week,  at  the  several  houses, 
is  from  $3  to  $8. 

Mails  arrive  and  depart  by  way  of  the  rail  road,  to 
and  from  Ballston  Spa,  every  day  in  the  week.  Be- 
sides a  post  office  at  the  village,  there  is  one  in  the  town 
of  Ballston,  about  three  miles  distant,  to  which  letters 
are  frequently  missent,  owing  to  the  neglect  of  corres- 
pondents in  making  the  proper  direction. 

The  reading  room  and  library  may  be  resorted  to  at 
all  times,  and  for  a  moderate  compensation.  Papers 
are  there  furnished  from  all  parts  of  the  Union.  The 
library,  which  includes  some  periodical  publications,  is 


SARATOGA    SPUINGS. 


1C3 


small ;  but  valuable  selections  may  bo  made,  either  for 
instruction  or  amusement. 

SARATOGA  SPRINGS, 

Is  situated  north-easterly  from  Ballston  Spa  6^  miles, 
and  36i  miles  from  the  city  of  All)any.  The  village  is 
located  on  an  elevated  spot  of  ground,  surrounded  by  a 
productive  level  country,  and  enjoys,  if  not  the  advan- 
tage of  prospect,  at  least  the  advantage  of  a  salubrious 
air  and  climate,  contributing  much  to  the  V  ilth  and 
benefit  of  its  numerous  visitants.  The  springs,  r  just- 
ly celebrated  for  their  medicinal  virtues,  are  (situated  on 
the  margin  of  a  vole,  bordering  the  village  on  the  cast, 
and  arc  a  continuation  of  a  chain  of  springs  discovering 
themselves  about  12  miles  to  the  south,  the  town  of 
Ballston,  and  extending  easterly,  in  the  form  of  a  cres- 
cent, to  the  Cluaker  village.  In  the  immediate  vicinity 
are  10  or  12  springs,  tlie  principal  of  vv^hich  are  the  Con- 
gress, the  Hamilton,  the  High  Rock,  the  Columbi- 
an, the  Flat  Rock,  the  Washington  and  the  President. 
About  a  mile  en"*,  ?.*  the  former  residence  of  Mr.  Tay- 
lor, are  found  a  cluster  of  mineral  springs  which  go  by 
the  name  of  the  Ten  Springs. 

THE  CONGRESS  SPRING 

Is  situated  at  the  south  end  of  the  village,  and  is 
owned  by  Messrs.  Lynch  &  Clarke  ;  to  whose  liberali- 
ty the  public  are  much  indebted  for  the  recent  improve- 
ments that  have  been  made  in  the  grounds  adjoining  the 
fountain,  and  the  purity  in  which  its  waters  are  preserv- 


I 


164 


Saratoga  springs. 


•H 


!'.{ 


:ir  f.  '■;. 


Vii 


cd.*  The  spring  was  first  discovered  in  the  Bummcr  of 
1792,  issuing  from  a  crevice  in  the  rock,  a  few  feet  from 
its  present  location.  Hero  it  flowed  for  a  number  of 
years,  until  an  attempt  to  improve  the  surface  around  it 
produced  an  accidental  obstruction  of  its  waters,  which 
afterwards  made  their  appearance  at  the  place  where 
they  now  flow.  It  is  enclosed  by  a  tube  sunk  into  the 
earth  to  the  distance  of  12  or  14  feet,  wliicli  secures  it 
from  the  water  of  a  stream,  adjoining  which  it  is  situ- 
ated. 

From  an  analysis  made  by  Doct.  Steel,  it  appears 
that  a  gallon  of  the  water  contains  the  following  sub- 
stances :  chloride  of  sodium,  385  grs.  ;  hydriodate  of 
soda,  3^  grs.  ;  bicarbonate  of  soda,  nearly  9  grs. ;  bi- 
carbonate of  magnesia,  nearly  96  grs. ;  carbonate  of 
lime,  a  little  more  than  98  grs. ;  carbonate  of  iron,  up- 
wards of  5  grs.  ;  silix,  1^  grs.;  carbonic  acid  gas,  311 
cubic  inches ;  atmospheric  air,  7  do. 

To  this  spring,  perhaps  more  than  any  other  spot  on 
the  glol>e,  are  seen  repairing  in  the  summer  mornings, 
before  breakfast,  persons  of  almost  every  grade  and 
condition,  from  the  most  exalted  to  the  most  abject. 
The  beautiful  and  tlie  deformed — the  rich  and  the 
poor — the  devotee  of  pleasure  and  the  invalid — all  con- 


f!  1! 


p  ?P 


II  i 


*  Messrs.  Lvnch  &  Clarke  are  makinij  arrangements 
to  erect  over  this  spring  an  elegant  dome,  to  be  support- 
ed by  Dorick  columns.  The  drawing  of  the  plan, 
which  we  have  seen,  displays  much  architectural  syme- 
try  and  beauty,  and  when  the  erection  shall  have  been 
made,  it  cannot  fail  of  proving  highly  ornamental  and 
acceptable  to  the  numerous  visitants  at  the  fountain. 


SARATOGA    BPIllMCS. 


ic: 


grcgate  here  for  purposes  aa  various  as  are  their  situa- 
tions in  litb.  To  one  Ibnd  of  witnessing  the  great  di- 
versity in  tlio  luunun  character,  tliis  place  aflbrds  an  am- 
ple lield  for  ob;H'rvation.  So  well  indeed,  has  it  been 
improved  hy  the  little  urchins  who  dij)  water  at  the  foun- 
tain, that  an  imposing  exteiior  is  sure  to  procure  for  its 
possessor  their  services  ;  whil(5  individuals  less  richly 
attired,  and  whose  physiognomy  indicate  a  less  liberal 
disposition,  arc  oft(>n  compelled  to  wait  till  it  is  moro 
convenient  to  attend  to  their  wants. 

Most  persons  soon  become  fond  of  the  water ;  but 
the  cfiect  on  those  who  taste  it  for  the  first  time  is  fre- 
quently unpleasant.  To  such,  the  other  fountains  are 
generally  more  palatable,  having  a  less  saline  taste  than 
the  Congress. 

The  High  Rock  is  situated  on  the  west  side  of  the 
valley,  skirting  the  east  side  of  the  village,  about  half  a 
mile  north  of  the  Congress.  The  rock  enclosing  this 
spring  is  in  the  shape  of  a  cone,  9  feet  in  diameter  at  its 
base,  and  5  feet  in  height.  It  seems  to  have  been 
formed  by  a  concretion  of  particles  throw^n  up  by  the 
water,  which  formerly  flowed  over  its  summit  through 
an  aperture  of  about  12  inches  diameter,  regularly  di- 
verging from  the  top  of  the  cone  to  its  base.  This  spring 
vv^as  visited  in  the  year  17G7  by  Sir  William  Johnson, 
but  was  know^n  long  before  l)y  the  Indians,  who  were 
first  led  to  it,  either  by  accidoi^t  or  by  th.o  frequent 
haunts  of  beasts,  attracted  thither  by  the  saline  proper- 
ties of  tiic  water.  A  building  was  erected  near  the  spot 
previous  to  the  revolutionary  w^ar ;  afterwards  abandon- 
ed, and  again  resumed  ;  since  which  the  usefulness  of 


M 


166 


EVHATOGA    BrUINGS. 


,y^ 


.»  «. 


')  k 


n  I  ' 


\     A 


-?    I 


tho  water  has,  from  tiino  to  lirno,  occasioned  frequent 
fiettlements  within  its  vicinity. 

The  water  now  rises  within  2  feet  of  the  summit,  and 
a  common  notion  prevails  tlmt  it  has  foinid  a  passafjo 
through  a  (issin-e  of  tlio  rock  occasioned  hy  the  fall  of  a 
tree ;  since  which  event  it  has  ceased  to  ilow  over  its 
brink.  This  opinioii,  ho\V(!ver,  may  be  doubted.  It  is 
probable  that  the  decay  of  tlic  rock,  wliich  commenced 
its  formation  on  the  natural  surface  of  the  earth,  may 
have  yielded  to  the  constant  motion  of  the  water,  and  at 
length  opened  a  passa^^e  between  its  decayed  base  and 
the  loose  earth  on  which  it  was  formed.  This  idea 
is  strengthened  from  the  external  appearance  of  the 
rock  at  its  eastern  base,  which  has  aheady  been  pene- 
trated by  the  implemciits  of  curiosity  a  number  of 
inches. 

Between  the  Red  spring  in  the  upper  village,  and  the 
Washington  in  the  south  part  of  the  lower  village,  arc 
situated  most  of  the  other  mineral  springs  in  which  this 
place  abounds.  At  three  of  the  princii)al  springs,  the 
Hamilton,  Monroe  and  Washington,  large  and  conven- 
ient bathing  houses  have  been  erected,  which  are  the 
constant  resort  for  pleasure  as  well  as  health,  during  the 
warm  season. 

The  mineral  waters  both  at  Ballston  and  Saratoga 
are  supposed  to  be  the  product  of  the  same  great  laba- 
ratory,  and  they  all  possess  nearly  tiie  same  proi)erties, 
varying  only  as  to  tho  quantity  of  the  different  articles 
held  in  solution.  Thoy  are  denominated  acidulous  sa- 
line and  acidulous  chalybeate.  Of  the  former  are  the 
Congress,  (which  holds  the  lirst  rank,)  the  Hamilton, 
High  Rock  and  President,  at  Sarato^'a  ;  and  of  tlie  lat- 


<|js*«^ 


9AUATOOA    SrUINUS. 


1G7 


tor  nrc  the  ColnniMnn,  I'ljit  Rock  and  "VVnshinRton,  at 
»Sarato;rfi,  Jind  tlie  Uhl  S|Miiii:  nnd  Sans  Souri,  at  Hnll- 
Bton.  Tlio  waters  coiitaiii  niiiriato  of  soda,  liydrio(!atc 
of  foda,  carbonates  of  soda,  <arl)onat«'  ofliino,  carbonato 
of  inanjnosia,  oxido  of  iron,  and  some  of  them  a  niinntc 
qnantity  of  silicon  and  abunina.  Lar^'o  qnantities  of 
carbonic  acid  ^as  arc  also  contained  in  the  waterH,  giv- 
inf;  to  them  a  spnrklinij  and  lively  appearance.  Tha 
Coni^rcss,  in  particniar,  the  jnomcnt  it  is  dipj)ped,  con- 
tains nearly  one  half  more  than  its  bnik  of  pas  ;  a 
qnantity  un[)reccdentGd  in  any  natural  -waters  else- 
whore  discovered. 

Doct.  Steel,  in  his  peolotiical  report  of  the  county  of 
♦Saratoga,  published  a  few  years  since,  remarks,  that 
**  the  temperature  of  the  water  in  all  these  wells  is 
about  the  same,  ran£:innr  from  48  to  52  dctrrces  on  Far- 
cnlieWs  scale  ;  and  they  suller  no  sensible  alteration 
from  any  variation  in  the  temperatiu'c  of  the  atmos- 
phere ;  neither  do  the  variations  of  the  seasons  appear 
to  have  mucli  efTect  on  the  quantity  of  water  produced. 

"  The  waters  are  remarkably  limpid,  and  when  first 
dipped  sparkle  with  all  the  life  of  good  champaigne. 
The  saline  waters  bear  bottlino  very  well,  particularly 
the  Congress,  immense  quantities  of  which  are  put  up 
in  this  way,  and  transported  to  various  parts  of  tho 
world  ;  not,  however,  without  a  considerable  loss  of  its 
gaseou  property,  which  renders  its  taste  much  more  in- 
sipid than  when  drank  at  the  well.  The  chalybeate  water 
is  likewise  put  up  in  bottles  for  transportation,  but  a 
very  trifling  loss  of  its  gas  produces  an  immediate  pre- 
cipitation of  its  iron  ;  and  hence  this  water,  when  it  has 
been  bottled  for  some  time,  frequently  becomes  turbid, 

o2 


168 


SARATOGA    SPRINGS. 


r'  '1 


/  T 


mt: 


' 


t-  ' 'i 


'l!  ;»■ 


and  finally  loses  every  trace  of  iron  ;  this  substance  fix- 
ing itself  to  the  walls  of  the  bottle. 

"  The  most  prominent  and  perceptible  effects  of 
these  waters,  when  taken  into  the  stomach,  are  cathar- 
tiCj  diuretic  and  Ionic.  They  are  much  used  in  a  great 
variety  of  complulnts  ;  but  the  diseases  in  which  they 
are  most  efficacious  are  jaundice  and  billious  affections 
generally,  dyspepsia,  habitual  costiveness,  hypochon- 
drical  complaints,  depraved  appetite,  calculous  and  ne- 
phritic complaints,  phagedenic  or  ill-conditioned  ulcers, 
cutaneous  eruptions,  chronic  rheumatism,  some  species 
or  states  of  gout,  some  species  of  dropsy,  scrofula,  par- 
alysis, scorbutic  affections  and  old  scorbutic  ulcers, 
amenorrhea,  dysmenorrhea  and  clorosis.  In  phthisis, 
and  indeed  all  other  pulmonary  affections  arising  from 
primary  diseases  of  the  lungs,  the  waters  are  manifest- 
ly injurious,  and  evidently  tend  to  increase  the  violence 
of  the  disease. 

"  Much  interest  has  been  excited  on  the  subject  of 
the  source  of  these  singular  waters  ;  but  no  reseaiches 
have  as  yet  unfolded  the  mystery.  The  large  propor- 
tion of  common  salt  found  among  their  constituent 
properties  may  be  accounted  for  without  much  difficul- 
ty. All  the  salt  springs  of  L^urope,  as  well  as  those  of 
America,  being  found  in  geological  situations  exactly 
corresponding  to  these,  but  the  production  of  the  unex- 
ampled quantity  of  carbonic  acid  gas,  the  medium 
through  which  the  other  articles  are  held  in  solution,  is 
yet,  and  piobably  will  remain  a  subject  of  mere  specu- 
lation. The  low  and  regular  temperature  of  the  water 
seems  to  forbid  the  idea  that  it  is  the  effect  of  subterra- 
nean heat,  as  many  have  supposed,  and  the  total  absence 


?(i1 


twiLrl 


SARATOGA    SPRINGS. 


1C9 


of  any  mineral  acid,  excepting  the  muriatic,  which  is 
combined  with  soda,  does  away  tlie  possibihty  of  its  be- 
ing the  effect  of  any  combination  of  that  kind.  Its  pro- 
duction is  therefore  truly  unaccountable."* 

In  addition  to  the  springs  already  enumerated,  a  val- 
uable SULPHUR  .SPRING  wds  discovcrcd  a  few  years  since 
in  the  vicinity  of  the  FJarnilton  Spring,  in  the  rear  of  the 
Congress  Hall.  It  rises  from  a  depth  of  about  twenty 
feet,  in  a  tube  of  about  4  feet  diameter,  and  affords  an 
ample  supply  of  water  for  the  bathing  establishment 


i 


*  An  analysis  of  the  waters  of  this  place  and  at  Ball- 
ston  Spa  was  mavle  and  published  by  Doct  Steel,  some 
years  since,  and  has  received  the  sanction  of  the  most 
scientific  men  in  this  country  and  in  Europe;  since 
which  he  has  prepared  and  published  an  entire  new 
work,  embracing  not  only  an  analysis  of  tlie  various 
springs  and  directions  for  their  us;^  in  the  numerous  dis- 
eases in  wliith  they  iiave  proved  beneficial,  but  also  a 
full  and  interesting  history  of  their  discovery,  and  of  the 
rise  and  progress  of  tiie  villages  in  which  they  are  loca- 
ted. The  literary  attairmnnts  of  Doct.  S.  and  his  great 
experience  from  a  long  residence  at  this  place,  have  en- 
abled him  to  render  this  work  far  superior  to  any  thing 
of  the  kind  which  has  appeared.  It  ought  also  to  bo 
remarked,  that  no  invalid  should  attempt  the  use  of 
these  waters  without  the  direction  of  a  physician  well 
acquainted  with  their  properties.  A  contrary  course, 
under  the  too  prevalent  and  erroneous  impression  that 
they  may  be  drank  in  all  complaints,  in  any  quantity, 
and  at  all  hours  of  the  day,  has  been  attended  in  many 
instances  with  deleterious  and  sometimes  with  fatal 
cmspquences.  There  can  be  no  doubt  of  their  great 
efficacy  in  most  complaints,  when  properly  used  ;  yet 
ill-timed  and  too  copious  draughts  not  only  fail  of  re- 
moving complaints,  bat  frequently  engender  them. 


!i  ' 


' '  * '  s , 


1  i )  i  tf :    V  1  • 


170 


SARATOGA    SPRINGS. 


with  which  it  is  connectod.  It  has  already  proved  high- 
ly efficacious  in  many  cases  of  salt  rheum,  scrofula  and 
other  cutaneous  eruptions  ;  and  were  it  generally 
known,  would  undoubtedly  be  resorted  to  more  frequent- 
ly by  persons  afflicted  with  these  complaints. 

The  boarding  establishments  of  the  first  class  at  Sar- 
atoga Springs  are  the  Congress  Hall  and  Union  Hall 
at  the  south  end  of  the  village,  the  Pavilion  at  the  north, 
and  the  United  States  Hotel  in  a  central  situation  be- 
tween them.  Besides  these,  there  are  a  number  of  oth- 
er boarding  houses  on  a  less  extensive  scale,  the  most 
noted  of  which  are  Montgomery  Hall  and  tlie  York 
House  in  the  south  part,  and  the  Columbian  Hotel  and 
Washington  Hall  in  the  north  part  of  the  village  ;  Pros- 
pect Hali,  also,  kept  by  Mr.  Benjamin  R.  Putnam,  is 
beautifully  located  about  one  mile  north  west  of  the  vil- 
lage, and  is  a  very  respectable  establishment. 

The  Congress  Hall,  kept  by  ATessrs.  J.  &  J.  R. 
Westcot,  is  situated  within  a  few  rods  of  the  Congress 
spring,  to  which  a  handsome  walk,  shaded  with  trees, 
has  been  constructed  for  the  convenience  of  guests. 
The  space  in  front  of  the  building  is  occupied  by  three 
apartments,  each  of  which  is  enclosed  by  a  railing,  ter- 
minating at  the  front  entrances  of  the  piazza,  and  each 
used  as  a  flower  garden.  The  edifice  is  200  feet  in 
length,  3  stories  high,  besides  an  attic,  and  has  two 
winsrs  extending  back,  one  GO,  and  the  other  about  100 
feet.  Tlic  billiard  rooms  belonging  to  the  establish- 
ment are  contained  in  a  building  adjoining  the  north 
wing.  In  front  of  the  Hall  is  a  spacious  piazza,  extend- 
ing the  whole  length  of  the  building,  20  feet  in  width, 
with  a  canopy  from  the  roof,  supported  by  17  massy 


^sSSSSsst^ 


SARATOGA    SPRINGS. 


171 


columns,  each  of  which  is  gracefully  entwined  with 
woodbine.  There  is  also  a  back  piazza,  which  opens 
upon  a  beautiful  garden  annexed  to  the  establishment, 
and  a  small  grove  of  pines,  affbrdinir  both  fragrance  and 
shade  to  their  loitering  guests.  The  Congress  Hall 
can  accommodate  from  250  to  300  visitants,  and  is  just- 
ly ranked  among  the  most  elegant  establishments  in 
the  union. 

The  United  States  Hotel,  also  kept  by  Messrs. 
J.  &.  J.  R.  Westcot,  with  its  gardens  and  out  buildings, 
occupies  a  space  in  the  centre  of  the  village  of  about 
five  acres.  The  main  building  is  composed  of  brick, 
125  feet  long  and  34  wide.  It  is  four  stories  high,  and 
has  a  wing  extending  west  60  feet,  three  stories  high. 
A  building  34  by  60,  appropriated  to  drawing  and 
lodging  rooms,  has  also  been  added  on  the  south,  and 
is  connected  with  the  main  edifice  by  broad  piazzas  in 
front  and  rear,  extending  the  whole  length  of  both 
buildings.  The  ground  in  the  rear  and  south  of  the 
hotel  is  handsomely  laid  out  into  walks,  terminating  on 
the  west  in  a  garden  belonging  to  the  establishment, 
and  the  whole  is  tastefully  ornamented  with  trees  and 
shrubbery.  The  front  of  the  edifice  is  enclosed  by  a 
delicate  circular  railing  into  three  apartments,  each  con- 
taining a  choice  variety  of  flowers  and  shrubs,  and 
shaded  by  a  row  of  forest  trees  extending  the  whole 
length  of  the  building.  The  hotel  is  situated  equally 
distant  between  the  Congress  and  Flat  Rock  springs, 
and  commands  a  view  of  the  whole  village,  and  from  its 
fourth  story  a  distinct  view  is  had  of  the  surrounding 
country  for  a  number  of  miles.  This  estabUshment 
can  accommodate  nearly  200  visitants,  and  is  one  of 


17-2 


SARATOGA    SPRINGS. 


'   iift 


i     J  -1. 


Ihc  largest  and  most  splendid  edifices  in  the  Qniied 
States. 

The  Pavilion  is  situated  in  a  pleasant  part  of  the  vil- 
lage, immediately  in  front  of  the  Flat  Rock  sprin^jf. 
The  hnildincf  is  constructed  of  wood,  133  feet  in  length, 
with  a  wing  extending  back  from  the  centre;  of  the  main 
building,  80  feet.  It  is  2  1-2  stories  high,  with  the  ad- 
dition of  an  attick  story,  which,  with  the  handsome 
portico  in  front,  sustained  by  delicate  colonades,  ren- 
ders it,  in  beauty  and  proportion,  one  of  the  finest  mod- 
els of  architecture  this  country  can  produce.  The  large 
rooms  of  the  Pavilion  are  less  spacious  than  those  of 
the  United  States  Hotel  or  Congress  Hall,  but  are  so 
constructed  that  by  means  of  folding  doors  the  whole 
of  the  lower  apartments  may  be  thrown  into  one — ar* 
advantao-c  whxch  pives  much  additional  interest  to  the 
^/romenade  a!id  cotillion  parties,  which  frequently  assem- 
ble on  this  extensive  area.  A  large  garden  is  connected 
with  the  establishment,  and  also  a  biUiard  room.  The 
Pavilion  is  calculated  for  the  accommodation  of  about 
1 30  visitants,  though  it  frequently  coniai.is  a  much  great- 
er number. 

The  Union  Hall  is  one  of  liic  earliest  and  most  re- 
spectable establishments  in  the  vicinity,  and  is  situated 
directly  opposite  to  the  Congress  llall.  It  has,  within 
a  few  years,  been  much  improved  in  its  appearance, 
and  enlarged  by  considerable  additions  to  the  main 
building.  It  now  presents  an  elegant  front,  120  feet 
in  length,  3  stories  high,  with  two  wings  extending 
west  60  feet.  It  is  ornamented  in  front  by  10  col- 
umns, which  rise  to  nearly  the  height  of  the  building, 
and   support  the  roof  of  a  spacious  piazza.     A  gar- 


I 


..  jJjS&Sl^WiSft"-- 


^'■■■'    -^mi  ' 


■■u^: 


J      .#.1  ..VI.  J. 


8\RATOGA    SPRINGS. 


173 


in 


don  in  the  rear  of  the  building,  together  with  a  beautiful 
flower  garden  on  the  north  opening  to  the  main  street, 
are  among  the  varieties  which  contribute  to  the  pleas- 
antness of  the  estal)lishment.  It  is  now  kept  by  Mr. 
W.  Putnam,  a  son  of  the  original  proprietor,  and  lanks 
in  point  of  elegance  and  respectability  with  the  most  fa- 
vored establishments  in  the  vicinity. 

The  Columbian  Hotel,  stands  a  few  yards  south  of 
the  Pavilion.  Annexed  to  the  establishment  is  a  hand- 
some garden,  lying  on  three  sides  of  the  building,  which 
adds  much  to  the  beauty  and  advantage  it  enjoys  in 
point  of  natural  location.  The  well  known  re[Tutation 
of  this  establishment,  as  well  as  its  pleasant  situation, 
in  the  vicinity  of  one  of  the  ])rineipal  fountains,  will  al- 
ways ensure  it  a  full  share  of  patronage. 

The  Washington  Hall,  owned  and  kept  by  Mr.  I. 
Taylor,  is  beautifully  located  at  the  north  part  of  the 
village  ;  and  is  patronized  by  strangers  wdio  do  not 
wish  to  mingle  in  the  pleasures  of  the  larger  establish- 
ments. 

The  price  of  board  per  week  at  the  respective  houses, 
is  from  $3  to  $10. 

The  Reading  Rooms.  There  is  in  the  villajre  a  print- 
ing office  and  bookstore,  with  which  is  co.inected  a 
reading  room,  a  mineralogical  room  and  a  library,  un- 
der the  superintendance  of  the  same  proprietor.  These 
rooms,  a  few  doors  north  of  the  U.  S.  Hotel,  are  con- 
tained in  the  same  building  with  the  library  and  book- 
store, but  have  their  separate  apartments.  That  ap- 
propriated for  the  reading  room,  is  large  and  airy.  It 
is  ornamented  with  a  variety  of  maps  and  charts,  and 


h 


■■f,  ■ 


■  fl        '-I 


I    <\i 


i  '  \ 


174 


8A.IIAT0GA    SPU1?:C3. 


is  furnished  by  the  daily  mails  with  about  100  papers, 
from  diflerent  parts  of  the  United  States  and  from  the 
Canadas,  besides  several  periodical  publications.  The 
mineralogical  apartment  is  on  the  second  story,  to 
which  stairs  lead  from  the  reading  room.  This  apart- 
ment contains  specimens  of  all  the  minerals  discovered 
in  this  vicinity,  together  with  a  variety  from  different 
parts  of  the  union,  and  from  Europe.  They  are  very 
handsomely  arranged  in  glass  cases,  have  been  much 
augmented  of  late  by  Dr.  J.  H.  Steel,  of  this  place,  to 
whom  the  proprietor  is  principally  indebted  for  their 
collection  and  arrangement.  An  apartment  adjoining 
the  reading  room,  contains  a  librory  of  about  2000  vol- 
umes, which  are  well  selected,  and  receive  constant 
additions  from  the  most  fashionable  productions  of  the 
day.  There  is  also  kept  at  these  rooms  a  register  of 
the  names  of  visitants  at  the  Springs,  their  residence 
and  places  of  board.  The  i.ames  thus  entered  fre- 
quently number  from  6  to  8000  in  the  course  of  a 
season. 

These  rooms  afTord  a  pleasant  retreat  from  the  noise 
and  bustle  of  the  boarding  cstabhshments,  and  are 
much  frequented  by  ladies  and  gentlemen  of  taste  and 
fashion.  The  terms  are  reasonable,  and  are  scarcely 
an  equivalent,  considering  the  extent  and  usefulness  of 
the  institution. 

Th(;  maO  arrives  at  the  Springs  every  day  by  the  rail 
roa.l,  in  fmm  16  to  IS  hours  from  New- York,  and 
leaves  everv  mi  rning  at  9  for  Albany,  intersecting  with 
the  Boston  ma:i  at  that  place.  Strangers  should  be  ap- 
prized thtit  a  post  office  is  estabhshed  in  the  town  of 
Saratoga,    bout  12  miles  distant,  to  which  letters  in- 


SARATOGA    LAKE. 


I7i 


ap- 
m  of 


! 


tended  for  the  Springs  aro  often  missent,  In  conSG- 
quence  of  their  mis-direction. 

At  both  the  villages  of  Ballston  and  Saratoga  Springs, 
there  are  always  sufficient  objects  of  amusement  to 
render  the  transient  residence  of  their  summer  guests 
pleasant  and  agreeable.  Those  whose  taste  is  not 
gratified  at  the  billiard  rooms,  which  are  annexed  to 
most  of  the  boarding  establishments,  can  always  enjoy 
a  mental  recreation  at  the  reading  rooms  ;  a  ride  on  the 
rail  road,  carriages  for  which  leave  both  villaires  seve- 
ral  times  a  day ;  or  a  short  excursion  in  the  neigh- 
borhood, where  sufficient  beauty  and  novelty  of  scenery 
arc  always  presented  to  render  it  interesting.  The 
amusements  of  the  day  are  usually  crowned  with  a  ball 
or  promenade.  The  respective  apartments  appropri- 
ated for  these  occasions  are  calculated  to  accommodate 
from  150  to  200  guests  ;  but  they  often  contain  a  much 
ffroater  number. 

The  spacious  areas  of  the  cotillion  rooms  arc  be- 
tween 80  and  90  feet  in  length,  and  when  enlivened  by 
the  associated  beauty  and  gaiety  resorting  to  the 
springs,  present  a  scene  of  novelty  and  fascination  sel- 
dom equalled. 

About  two  miles  east  from  Saratoga  Springs  there  is 
also  a  small  fish  pond,  situated  on  the  farm  of  a  Mr. 
Barhyte.  Parties  often  resort  thither  as  well  to  enjo} 
the  amusements  of  fishing  as  to  partake  of  a  repast  on 
trout,  the  proprietor  reserving  to  himself  the  exclusive 
privilege  of  serving  them  up.  Still  farther  east,  about 
four  miles  from  the  Springs,  is  situated 

Saratoga  Lake.  This  lake  is  9  miles  long  and  3 
broad.     A  resort  is  constantly  kept  up  at  Green's  and 


m 


I 


-i  i 


:i  ■: 


:fk:!^   ■ 


t 


^i![ 


i'.  *'(U!    i-' 


;1 


I  '•■ 


»!-■     ■       ,     ff'A 


n 


176 


DEMUS'    IIEICnTS. 


at  Riley's,  on  the  western  margin  of  the  lake,  the  for- 
mer about  four  and  the  latter  about  six  miles  distant 
from  Saratoga  Springs,  and  the  same  distance  from 
Ballston  Spa.  The  visitants  at  both  villages  frequently 
resort  thither,  to  enjoy  the  advantages  of  air  and  pros- 
pect during  the  months  of  July  and  August.  Sail  boats 
are  here  fitted  up  for  the  accommodation  of  parties  of 
pleasure,  and  implements  for  fishing  are  always  in 
readiness  for  those  who  take  pleasure  in  this  fashiona- 
ble diversion.  The  western  shores  of  this  lake  are  ac- 
cessible but  in  a  few  places,  in  consequence  of  the  ad- 
jacent marshes  ;  on  the  east  side  the  land  is  more  ele- 
vated, and  presents  a  fine  prospect  of  farms  under  good 
improvement.  Besides  a  variety  of  excellent  fish,  con- 
siderable wild  game  is  found  on  the  lake  and  marshes 
and  along  its  borders.  This  lake  is  supplied  with  wa- 
ter from  the  Kayaderosseras  creek,  which,  taking  its 
rise  about  20  miles  in  a  northwest  direction,  and  receiv- 
ing in  its  course  a  number  of  tributary  streams,  flows 
into  the  lake  on  the  west  side.  Fish  creek  forms  its 
out!  :>",  through  which  the  waters  of  the  lake  are  com- 
municated to  the  Hudson  river  about  8  miles  distant, 
in  an  easterly  direction.  This  creek  empties  into  the 
Hudson  river  at  Schuyler- Ville,  noticed  at  p.  179. 

Bemus'  Heights,  rendered  memorable  as  the  spot 
on  which  the  British  army  under  Gen.  Burgoyne  was 
defeated,  in  the  revolutionary  contest,  are  about  8  miles 
in  a  south-eastwardly  direction  from  Green's  on  the 
Saratoga  Lake.  The  battle  ground  is  about  two  miles 
west  of  the  Hudson  river  ;  and  though  without  much 
to  attract  in  its  location  or  surrounding  scenery,  will 
nevertheless  at  all  times  prove  interesting  from  its  as- 


f  i 


T:  *'^  ^ah''     ■    .^■ 


■i«iM«R^«|f>n*ifiVM 


V(«L-,.  ■ 


URMUS'    riEIOHTS. 


177 


spot 

Iwaa 

dies 

the 
liles 
luch 
Iwill 

as- 


t  i 


sociatlon  with  events  which  greatly  contributed  to  the 
establishment  of  American  independence. 

The  two  actions  which  preceded  the  jjurrender  of  the 
British  army  were  fought  on  the  10th  of  September, 
1777,  and  on  the  17tli  of  October  following.  On  the 
morninff  of  the  8th,  the  American  army  marched  into 
the  Britisli  camp,  which  had  been  deserted  the  evening 
previous.  The  enemy  continued  to  retreat  till  they  had 
reached  the  height  beyond  the  Fish  creek,  where  they 
encamped  on  the  10th.  Finding  his  retreat  cut  offby  a 
party  of  troops,  who  had  taken  a  position  in  his  rear, 
and  his  advance  impeded  by  superior  numbers,  General 
Burgoyne  accepted  the  terms  of  capitidation,  proposed 
by  General  Gates,  and  suiTcndered  his  whole  army  to 
the  American  forces,  on  the  17th  October,  1777.  The 
surrender  took  place  at  Fort  Hardy,  where  the  British 
stacked  their  arms,  and  were  permitted  to  march  out 
with  the  honors  of  war.  This  fortunate  event  was  fol- 
lowed by  a  succession  of  brilliant  achievements,  and  fi- 
nally led  to  the  surrender  of  Lord  Cornwallis,  which 
terminated  the  struggle  of  the  revolution,  after  a  period 
of  nearly  8  years  from  its  commencement. 

Freeman's  Farm,  on  which  the  principal  actions 
were  fought,  is  immediately  east  of  the  main  road  run- 
ning north  and  south,  a  road  passing  directly  across  it 
to  the  Hudson  river  in  an  eastwardly  direction.  In  a 
meadow  adjoining  the  first  mentioned  road,  about  ten 
rods  south  of  a  blacksmith's  shop,  and  near  tlic  fence, 
13  the  spot  where  Gen.  Frazer  fell.*     A  large  bass-wood 


*  General  Frazer  was  second  in  command  to  Gen. 
Burgoyne,  and  died  on  the  8th  of  October,  1777,  from 
wounds  rcM^eived  in  battle  the  day  previous. 


.i1 


!i 


;  I 


\ 


I 


178 


BEMUs'  nEicnis. 


tree  marked  the  place  for  a  time  ;  but  having  been  cut 
down,  several  sprouts  which  have  sprung  up  from  tho 
parent  stock,  now  designate  the  spot.  A  few  rods  di- 
rectly south  of  this,  on  a  slight  eminence,  is  shown  the 
place  where  Col.  Cillcy  sat  a-straddle  of  a  brass  twelve 
pounder,  exulting  in  its  capture  ;  and  about  half  a  mile 
still  farther  south  is  sliown  the  house,  still  standinxr, 
which  was  used  by  Gen.  Gates  as  his  head-quarters. 

In  proceeding  to  the  river,  the  hill  on  which  General 
Frazcr  is  buried  is  pointed  out,  about  a  mile  and  a  half 
east  of  the  battle  ground,  and  20  rods  north  of  the  road. 
His  remains  were  deposited  at  his  request,  wuthin  a 
redoubt  on  the  top  of  this  hill.  The  redoubt,  which  is 
of  an  oblong  form,  from  100  to  150  feet  in  diameter,  is 
still  perfectly  visible  ;  and  the  spot  of  Gen.  Frazer's  m- 
terment  is  near  the  centre.  The  British  government, 
a  few  years  since,  employed  an  agent  to  erect  a  monu- 
ment to  his  memory  ;  but  proving  faithless,  he  appro- 
priated the  money  with  which  he  was  entrusted  to  his 
own  use,  and  returned  without  clTecting  the  object  of 
his  mission,  pretending  his  inability  to  discover  the  spot 
in  question.  It  therefore  continues  undistinguished  by 
a  monument,  or  even  a  stone,  to  mark  the  place  where 
repose  the  remains  of  this  gallant  warrior. 

Smith's  House,  in  which  General  Frazer  died,  and 
which,  at  that  time,  stood  near  the  foot  of  this  hill,  has 
been  removed  about  80  rods  in  a  north-castwardly  di- 
rection to  the  turnpike.  It  is  a  low  old  f;ishioncd 
Dutch  building,  with  the  gable  end  to  the  river,  paint- 
ed yellow — the  sides  red,  and  shingle  roof.  The  en- 
trance is  towards  the  river,  under  an  old  and  dilapida- 
ted portico — and  the  whole  bears  the  marks  of  antiqui- 


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Photographic 

Sciences 

Corporation 


33  WIST  MAIN  STRiET 

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>y— tho  only  addition  to  it  bcingr  a  small  out  house. 
The  room  in  which  Gen.  Frazer  died  is  directly  in  front, 
and  has  undergone  no  material  change  since  that  period. 
About  half  a  mile  south  from  Smith's  house,  near  the 
river,  is  the  residence  of  Major  Ezra  Buell,  who  was 
in  the  army  of  Gen.  Gates,  and  who  has  since  contin- 
ued to  reside  on  this  intcrestinfir  spot.     Though  advan- 
ced to  the  age  of  nearly  90,  his  memory  is  still  good, 
and  he  yearly  accompanies  strangers  in  their  excursions 
over  the  battle  ground,  pointing  out  to  them  the  differ- 
ent scites  on  which  the  most  important  events  trans- 
pired.    Eight  miles  north  of  this,  on  the  turnpike,  is 
the  village  of 

Schuyler- ViLLE,  noted  aa  the  residence  of  the  late 
Gen.  Schuyler,  and  still  more  so  as  the  place  where 
Gen.  Burgoyne  surrendered  to  the  American  army  in 
October,  1777. 

The  ground  on  which  the  surrender  took  place,  was 
in  a  vale  nearly  east,  and  in  plain  view  of  the  stage 
house  on  the  turnpike  in  Schuyler- Ville,  and  still  ex- 
hibits the  remains  of  an  entrenchment  called  Fort  Har- 
dy. About  40  rods  in  a  south-east  direction,  at  the 
mouth  of  Fish  creek,  is  the  scite  of  Fort  Schuyler. 
The  arms  of  the  British  were  stacked  in  the  vale  in 
front  of  Fort  Hardy,  and  from  thence  they  were  march- 
ed to  the  high  grounds  a  little  west  of  the  village,  and 
admitted  to  parol  as  prisoners  of  war.  At  the  south- 
ern extremity  of  the  vale  is  a  basin  for  the  northern  ca- 
nal, which  passes  through  this  place.  About  half  a 
mile  south  of  the  basin  stands  the  house  of  Philip  Schuy- 
ler, Esq.  located  near  the  spot  where  once  stood  the 
mansion  of  his  grandfather,  the  intrepid  Gen.  Schuyler, 

f2 


180 


rORT     EiJTVARD. 


t 


which,  with  other  buildingjs,  were  burnt  by  the  British 
army,  en  their  retreat  from  the  battle  of  the  7th. 

The  village  containH  70  or  30  houses,  and  an  exten- 
sive cotton  factory  and  niacliine  shop,  owned  by  Mr. 
Schuyler. 

Fort-Edward  is  12  miles  north  of  Schuyler- Ville. 
It  is  not  on  the  usual  route  of  travellers  from  the 
Springs  to  Lake  George ;  but  being  a  short  distance 
only  from  Sandy-Hill,  it  may  be  easily  visited.  The 
fort,  once  situated  where  the  village  now  stands,  has 
long  since  been  demolished  ;  though  its  former  loca- 
tion is  easily  traced  in  the  mounds  of  earth  which  are 
still  visible.  About  100  rods  north  of  the  village  is  a 
dam  across  the  Pludnon  river,  27  feet  high  and  900  feet 
long,  supplying  with  water  a  feeder  to  the  Northern 
canal.  The  cost  of  this  dam  was  $30,000.  There  is 
also  a  permanent  biidgc  across  the  river  a  short  dis- 
tance below. 

One  mile  north  of  Fort-Edward,  on  the  west  side  of 
the  road,  the  traveller  is  shown  a  large  pine  tree,  with 
a  spring  near  its  foot,  memorable  as  the  spot  where 
Miss  M'Crea  was  murdered  by  the  Indians  during  the 
revolutionary  war.     She  was  betrothed  to  a  Mr.  Jones, 
an  American  refugee,  who  was  in  Burgoyne's  army. 
Anxious  for  a  union  with  his  intended  bride,  he  dis- 
patched a  party  of  Indians  to  escort  her  to  the  British 
camp.     Against  the  remonstrance  of  her  friendr^  she 
committed  herself  to  their  charge.     She  was  placed  on 
horseback,  and  accompanied  her  guides  to  the  spring 
in  question,  where  they  were  met  by  another  party  sent 
on  the  same  errand.     An  altercation  ensued  between 
them  as  to  the  promised  reward,  (which  was  a  barrel  of 


i 


i 


^■|  ? 


ur 


SANDY    niLL — OLCN's    ?ALLS. 


181 


* 


rum,)  and  while  thus  engaged,  they  were  attacked  by 
the  whites.  At  the  close  of  the  conflict,  tlir  unhappy 
young  woman  was  found  a  short  distance  from  the 
sprinsr,  tomahawked  ond  scalped.  There  in  a  tradition 
tJiat  her  scalp  was  divided  by  the  respective  parties, 
and  carried  to  her  agonized  lever.  He  is  said  to  have 
survived  the  shock  but  a  short  time  ;  and  to  have  died 
of  a  broken  heart.  The  name  of  Miss  M'Crea  is  in- 
f;cribed  on  the  tree,  with  the  date  1777.  Her  remains 
were  disinterred  a  few  years  since,  and  deposited  in 
the  church-yard  at  Sandy  Hill. 

Sandy  Hill  is  two  miles  from  Fort  Edward,  on  the 
route  from  Saratoga  Springs  to  Lake  Georg'?.     It  is  sit- 
uated on  the  margin  of  the  Hudson  river,  immediately 
above  Baker's  Falls,  about  18  miles  from  the  Springs. 
A  wooden  bridge  extends  across  the  river  at  this  place, 
from  which  the  road  leads  up  a  precipitous  ascent,  on 
the   summit  of   which  the  village  is   situated.      The 
streets  are  laid  out  in  the  form  of  a  triangle.     In  the 
centre  is  an  open  area,  surrounded  by  handsomely  con- 
structed stores  and  dwellings.     The  village  contains 
upwards  of  100  houses,  and   about   500  inhabitants. 
The  courts  of  the  county  are  held  alternately  hero  and 
at  Salem. 

Glen's  Falls,  a  village  of  about  the  same  size  of 
Sandy  Hill,  is  3  miles  further  up  the  Hudson  river,  on 
the  direct  route  to  Lake  George.  At  this  place  are  the 
celebrat<^d  falls  from  which  the  village  takes  its  name. 
These  are  situated  about  i  of  a  mile  south  of  the  vil- 
lage, near  a  permanent  bridge,  extending  partly  over 
the  falls,  and  from  which  the  best  view  of  them  may 
be  had.     The  falls  are  formed  by  the  \  'aters  of  the 


:/ 


I 


t92 


r.LCK'S    FALLS. 


f%:' 


?t  ■'■-■ 


Hitflson,  which  .''ow  in  one  ehccl  over  the  brink  of  the 
precipice,  but  arc  tmraediatcl y  divided  by  the  rocks  into 
three  channels.  The  height  of  the  falh  is  ascertained, 
by  mf"asnrcnricnt,  to  be  03  foot;  tlion£rh  ihcM'ater  flows 
in  an  ansfular  descent  of  4  or  500  feet.  Rome  rods  be- 
low the  falls,  is  a  lonfj  cave  in  the  rocks,  extending 
from  one  channel  to  the  otlier.  On.  its  walls  are  in- 
scribed a  variety  of  names  of  former  g:ucsts,  who  have 
thought  proper  to  pay  this  customary  tribute.  The 
rocks,  which  are  at  some  seasons  covered  M'ith  water, 
but  at  others  entirely  dry,  are  chequered  with  small  in- 
dentations, and  in  many  places  considerable  chasms 
are  formed,  probably  by  pebbles  kept  in  motion  by  the 
falling  water.  It  is  very  evident  that  these  falls,  like 
those  of  Niagara,  wore  once  a  considerable  distance 
lower  down  the  river — the  banks  below  being  compo- 
sed of  shelving  rocks,  from  30  to  70  feet  perpendicular 
height.  On  the  north  side  of  the  river  is  a  navigable 
feeder,  communicating  with  the  Champlain  canal.  It 
commences  nearly  two  miles  above  the  falls;  and  with 
the  exception  of  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile,  which  ap- 
pears to  have  been  cut  out  of  a  shelving  rock,  runs 
along  a  ravine  east  of  Sandy- II ill ;  and  intersects  the 
main  canal  some  distance  below.* 


i 


*  Jessup's  Palls,  which  are  about  10  miles  above 
Glen's  Falls  on  the  Hudson,  are  worthy  the  attention 
of  travellers.  The  whole  scenery  is  highly  romantic  and 
picturesque,  and  the  descent  of  the  falls,  which  are 
perpendicular,  and  embrace  the  whole  river  in  an  en- 
tire sheet,  is  nearly  100  feet.  Five  miles  farther  north 
are  the  Hadlet  Falls,  which  are  a  succession  of  pitch- 
es over  a  rocky  and  uneven  bed.    The  whole  descent, 


I 


I 


^» 


the  brink  of  the 
)y  the  rocks  into 
9  is  ascertained, 
t  thoM\'itcr  flows 
Some  rods  bc- 
icks,  extending 
ts  walls  arc  in- 
ucsts,  who  have 
^  tribute.  The 
red  with  water, 
d  with  small  in- 
derable  chasms 
rj  motion  by  the 
these  falls,  like 
lovable  distance 
w  being  compo- 
rt perpendicular 
r  is  a  navigable 
■)lain  canal.  It 
falls ;  and  with 
nile,  which  ap- 
ing rock,  runs 
i  intersects  the 


0  miles  above 
y  the  attention 
V  romantic  and 
Is,  which  are 
ivcr  in  an  en- 
s  farther  north 
*ssion  of  pitch- 
jvhole  descent, 


1 


t 


A  ^.' ,  ■■ 


c 


I, 


CLCN*S    PALLS. 


193 


>i 


Conveyances  from  Sandy-Hill,  via  Glen's  Falls,  to 
Lake  George,  may  at  all  times  be  procured,  for  tho 
moderate  fare  of  one  dollar.  From  Glen's  Falls  to  tho 
Lake  the  distance  is  U  miles  over  an  indiflcrent  road, 
affording  little  other  variety  than  mountains  and  forests, 
with  here  and  there  a  rustic  hamlet.  Witliin  SJ 
miles  of  Lake  George  on  the  right  hand,  and  a  short 
distance  from  the  road,  is  pointed  out  the  rock,  at  the 
foot  of  which  Col.  Williams  was  massacred  by  the  In- 
dians, during  the  French  war.  At  the  distance  of  half 
a  mile  farther,'  on  the  same  side  of  the  road,  is  tho 
"  Bloody  Pondj''^  so  called  from  its  waters  having  been 
crimsoned  with  the  blood  of  the  slain  who  fell  in  its  vi- 
cinity, during  a  severe  engagement  in  1755.  It  is  said, 
that  skulls  are  found  in  the  neighborhood  of  this  pond, 


commencing  at  the  upper  fall,  is  between  80  and  100 
feet.  Over  the  lower  fall  a  permanent  bridge,  about  50 
feet  from  the  water,  is  erected.  The  river  is  here  con- 
tracted to  a  very  narrow  space,  within  lofty  rocky  em- 
bankments, between  which  the  water  rushes  with  great 
force  and  wildncss  into  the  basin  below,  uniting  with 
the  Sacondaga  river,  a  large  and  rapid  stream,  which 
rises  about  60  miles  at  the  north-west.  Both  of  those 
rivers  abound  with  trout  and  other  fish,  affording  ample 
employment  for  those  who  arc  fond  of  angling.  The 
country  here  is  extremely  rugged  and  mountainous,  and 
presents  but  little  appearance  of  cultivation. 

Travellers  designing  to  visit  these  places,  will  find  it 
the  most  convenient  to  take  a  carriage  at  Saratoga 
Springs,  from  which  to  Jessup's  Falls  is  14  miles,  and 
to  Hadley  Falls  5  miles  further.  The  route  is  over  a 
good  road,  and,  including  a  visit  of  two  or  three  hours, 
may  be  easily  performed  (going  and  returning)  in  a  day. 


184 


CAKDWELl  — LAKE   fiEOIir.E. 


fi 


'#    f 


U- 


«  y.  \ 


i 

r 


and  tlmt  numerous  ollicrs  may  be  taken  from  the  bot- 
tom.   Three  miles  farther  is  situated  the  village  of 

Caldwell,  on  the  south  western  margin  of  the  lake. 
This  village  contains  a  number  of  neat  little  buildings, 
and  about  300  inhabitants.  The  Lake  George  Coflee- 
House  is  fitted  up  in  good  stylo,  and  can  accommodate 
from  80  to  100  visitants.  There  are  here,  also,  a  post- 
office,  a  church,  and  a  court  house.  The  village  is  bor- 
dered on  the  east  by  a  range  of  hills,  to  the  highest  of 
which,  called  Prospect  Hill,  a  road  has  been  made,  and 
though  difficult  of  ascent,  the  toil  is  richly  compensated 
in  the  diversified  and  extensive  prospect  afTordcd  from 
its  summit 

LAKE  GEORGE 

Is  situated  but  a  short  day's  ride  from  the  village  of 
Saratoga  Springs,  (27  miles,)  from  whence  an  excur- 
sion to  the  Lake  is  considered  as  a  matter  of  course. 
Indeed,  there  are  few  places  where  a  greater  variety  of 
inducements  attract  the  stranger  than  at  Lake  George. 
Besides  the  interest  which  is  excited  from  an  associa- 
tion of  many  important  historic  events,  this  place  is 
rendered  peculiarly  interesting  from  the  unrivalled  ex- 
hibition of  the  beautiful  and  romantic  scenery  present- 
ed by  the  lake  and  its  environs.  At  the  village  of  Cald- 
well the  lake  is  about  one  mile  in  width,  but  it  general- 
ly varies  from  |  of  a  mile  to  4  miles.  The  vhole 
length  is  36  miles.  The  waters  are  discharged  into 
Lake  Champlain,  at  Ticonderoga,  by  an  outlet  which, 
in  the  distance  of  2  miles,  falls  180  feet. 

Lake  George  is  remarkable  for  the  transparency  of 
its  waters.    They  are  generally  very  deep,  but  at  an 


i 


... 


,1 


E. 


1  from  the  bo4 

2  village  of 

gin  of  the  lake, 
tittle  buildings, 
jrcorffc  Coflee- 
I  accommodate 
3,  also,  a  post- 
)  village  is  bor- 

thc  highest  of 
een  made,  and 
\f  compensated 

afforded  from 


1 


the  village  of 
nee  an  cxcur- 
ter  of  course, 
[iter  variety  of 
Lake  George, 
m  an  associa- 
this  place  is 
imrivallcd  ex- 
ncr^  prcsent- 
liagoofCald- 
ut  it  gcnernl- 
Thc  v'hole 
?chargcd  into 
outlet  which, 

nsparency  of 
p,  but  at  an 


/I 


l 


V 


W'  \ 


\ 


LJLEE    GBOROE. 


135 


/  -^ 


ordinary  depth  the  clean  gravelly  bottom  is  distinctly 
visible.  The  great  variety  of  excellent  fiah  which  ore 
cauirht  here,  renders  it  a  favorite  resort  for  those  who 
arc  fond  of  angling.  The  salmon  trout  is  caught  in 
abundance,  weighing  from  12  to  20  pounds.  The  lake 
is  interspersed  with  a  great  number  of  small  islands, 
the  principal  of  which,  Diamond  Island,  once  contain- 
ing a  military  fortification,  and  Tea  Island,  on  which  is 
a  summer  house  erected  for  the  amusement  of  parties 
of  pleasure,  are  visible  from  the  head  of  the  lake.  The 
whole  number  of  islands  is  said  to  equal  tho  number  of 
days  in  tho  year. 

The  scenery  on  the  borders  of  the  lake  is  generally 
mountainous.  With  the  exception  of  some  intervals, 
checkered  with  fruitful  cultivation,  the  land  recedes 
from  the  lake  with  a  gentle  acclivity,  for  a  few  rods, 
and  then,  with  a  bolder  ascent,  to  an  elevation  of  from 
600  to  1 500  feet.  Tho  best  view  of  the  lake  and  its 
environs  is  had  from  tho  southern  extremity,  near  tho 
remains  of  old  Fort  George,*  from  whence  the  prospect 
embraces  the  village  of  Caldwell  and  the  numerous  lit- 
tle islands  rising  from  the  calm  bosom  of  the  lake, 
whose  waters  arc  beautifully  contrasted  with  the  paral- 
lel ridges  of  craggy  mountains,  through  an  extent  of 
nearly  fourteen  miles.  Near  the  southern  shore  of  the 
lake  are  the  ruins  of  an  old  fortification,  called 


*  A  very  good  prospect  is  also  obtained  from  the  top 
of  the  Lake  George  House,  to  which  a  flight  of  stairs 
ascends  J  but  one  far  better  from  Prospect  Hill,  pre- 
viously mentioned. 


1/ 


m..u 


f!F^ 


'<^ym^mn\    "  ■!  II 


I 


I 


136 


LAKE    GEORGE. 


Fort  William  Henry.  Vestiges  of  the  walla  and 
out-works  are  still  to  be  seen.  Previous  to  its  con- 
struction, the  scite  of  the  fort  was  occupied  by  the  En- 
lish  army  under  the  command  of  Sir  William  Johnson, 
who  was  making  preparations  for  an  attack  upon 
Crown  Point.  Before  any  movement  was  made  by 
Sir  William,  the  French  army,  under  the  command  of 
Baron  Dieskan,  marched  from  Ticondcroga  for  Fort 
Edward,  but  afterwards  changing  his  purpose,  he  was 
proceeding  to  the  head  of  the  lake,  when  he  unexpect- 
edly fell  in  with  a  party  c^  the  English,  who  had  been 
detached  by  Sir  William  for  the  relief  of  Fort  Edward. 
A  severe  battle  ensued,  in  which  the  English  were  de- 
feated, and  compelled  hastily  to  retire  from  the  field. 
They  were  pursued  into  their  intrenchments  by  tho 
French  army,  who  commenced  a  furious  assault  upon 
the  English  camp,  but  v/ere  repulsed  with  great  slaugh- 
ter. The  discomfitted  Baron,  on  his  retreat  from  this 
unsuccessful  attack,  was  a  third  time  engaged  by  a  par- 
ty of  English,  who  had  been  despatched  by  the  garrison 
at  Fort  Edward,  to  succor  Sir  William  Johnson,  and 
totally  defeated.  These  three  several  engagements 
took  place  on  the  same  day,  the  6th  September,  1755, 
in  the  vicinity  of  Bloody  Pond,  into  which  the  bodies  of 
the  slain  were  afterwards  thrown.  In  1757,  Fort  Wil- 
liam Henry  contained  a  garrison  of  3,000  men,  under 
the  command  of  Col.  Munroe.  The  Marquis  de  Mont- 
calm, after  three  attempts  to  besiege  the  fort  in  form, 
reinforced  his  army  to  about  10,000  men,  and  summon- 
ed Col.  Munroe  to  surrender.  This  summons  beinf? 
refused,  Montcalm,  after  a  furious  assault,  obliged  th« 
English  to  capitulate.    Tho  terms  of  the  capitulation 


LAKE    GEORtiE. 


187 


lirpose,  he  was 


1,  and  summon- 


though  honorable  to  the  Enghsli,  were  shamefully  vio- 
lated by  the  Indians  attached  to  the  French  army,  who 
massacred  the  whole  garrison,  except  a  small  remnant 
who  made  their  escape  to  Fort  Edward.  The  fort  was 
razed  to  the  ground  by  Montcalm,  and  was  never  after- 
wards rebuilt.  This  spot  was  the  scene  of  embarkation 
of  General  W\.bercrombie,  who,  in  1758,  descended  the 
lake  with  an  army  of  15,000  men,  for  an  attack  on  Ti- 
conderoga.  About  80  rods  farther  south,  on  a  com- 
manding eminence,  are  situated  the  vestiges  of  old 
Fort  George.  This  fort,  though  not  distinguished  by 
any  event  of  importance,  yet  in  connexion  with  the  his- 
tory of  Lake  George,  imparts  an  interest  which  a  stran- 
ger will  readily  embrace  in  a  visit  to  its  mouldering  ru- 
ins. A  part  of  the  walls,  which  were  originally  built  of 
stone,  are  still  visible,  from  30  to  40  feet  in  height.  This 
fort  was  the  depot  for  the  stores  of  General  Burgoyne, 
for  some  time  during  the  revolutionary  war. 

The  steam-boat  Mountaineer  usually  performs  a  daily 
trip  on  Lake  George  so  as  to  intersect  the  boats  running 
on  Lake  Champlain  ;  leaving  Caldwell  in  the  morning, 
and  returning  at  evening.  The  length  of  the  Lake,  on 
which  the  boat  runs,  is  36  miles— fare  $2.  From  the 
steam-boat  landing  to  Ticonderoga  is  a  distance  of  3 
miles ;  for  which  a  conveyance  is  provided,  going  and 
returning,  for  50  cents  each  way.  Refreshments  are 
provided  at  a  tavern,  half  a  mile  from  the  landing,  after 
which  parties  usually  proceed  to  the  Fort,  and  return  to 
the  tavern  the  same  evening,  from  whence  they  may 
take  the  boat  on  its  return  the  next  day  to  Caldwell. 

The  Passage  of  Lake  George  cannot  fail  to  im- 
part a  great  degree  of  interest,  even  to  the  most  indif- 

R 


"*l!P»^**»'^«^^»i"wr" 


II     II  IWWI  I 


188 


LAKE   •EORGE. 


If 

I. 


1/ 


H. 


ferent  observer.  The  Lake  is  interspersed  with  a  great 
variety  of  islands,  some  of  which  are  very  sniall,but  yet 
serve  the  purpose  of  diversifying  the  prospect.  The 
smooth,  green  surface  of  the  water  is  strikingly  con- 
trasted with  the  bold  and  rugged  shores  of  the  Lake, 
which  vary  their  distance  from  |  of  a  mile  to  4  miles 
in  width,  and  occasionally  rise  to  1,500  feet  in  height. 
These  circumstances  added  to  the  numerous  historical 
associations  which  are  continually  suggested  to  the 
mind,  and  to  the  animation  which  a  fair  day  and  pros- 
perous passage  are  calculated  to  impart,  serve  to  create 
impressions  which  must  always  be  remembered  with 
peculiar  satisfaction. 

Ten  miles  from  Caldwell,  down  the  Lake,  are  a  range 
of  mountains  possessed  by  a  celebrated  hunter  of  the 
name  of  Phelps,  as  a  Deer  Pasture.  In  the  spring, 
when  the  vegetation  of  the  previous  year  is  sufficiently 
dry,  he  sets  fire  to  the  mountains.  Subsequently,  green 
and  tender  herbs  spring  forth,  and  induce  droves  of  deer 
to  resort  thither  in  quest  of  food ;  by  which  means  the 
hunter  succeeds  in  kiUing  hundreds  annually.  On  the 
opposite  side  of  the  lake,  at  a  very  considerable  eleva- 
tion, is  the  residence  of  a  wealthy  farmer  of  Bolton. 
Two  miles  further  is  Twelve  Mile  Island,  being  that 
distance  from  Caldwell.  It  is  of  a  circular  form,  of 
about  20  acres,  situated  in  the  centre  of  the  lake,  and 
is  elevated  30  or  40  feet  above  the  water.  From  thence 
one  mile,  on  the  north-west  side  of  the  lake,  is 

Tongue  Mountain,  with  West  Bat  on  its  west  side 
li  mile  wide,  and  extending  in  a  northerly  direction 
6  miles.  What  are  called  the  Narrows  commence  here, 
and  continues  for  6  or  7  miles,  being  |  of  a  mile  wide 


LAKE    GBORGE. 


189 


jd  with  a  great 
small,  but  yet 
►rospect.  The 
jtrikingly  con- 
of  the  Lake, 
tile  to  4  miles 
feet  in  height. 
;rous  historical 
iggested  to  the 
day  and  pros- 
serve  to  create 
membered  with 

ake,are  a  range 
id  hunter  of  the 
In  the  spring, 
;ar  is  sufficiently 
sequently,  green 
ce  droves  of  deer 
/v^hich  means  the 
nually.  On  the 
Lsiderahte  eleva- 
irmer  of  Bolton. 
LAND,  being  that 
circular  form,  of 
jf  the  lake,  and 
r.  From  thence 
$  lake,  is 

r  on  its  west  side 

•therly  direction 

commence  here, 

of  a  mile  wide 


and  very  deep.    A  line  500  feet  long  has  been  used  in 
sounding  without  reaching  bottom. 

Black  Mountain,  18  miles  from  the  head  of  the 
Lake,  is  situated  on  the  east  side,  and  has  been  ascer- 
tained, by  admeasurement,  to  be  2,200  feet  in  height. 
Opposite  to  Black  Mountain,  near  the  western  shore,  is 

Half  Wat  Island.  A  short  distance  north  of  this 
is  some  of  the  finest  mountain  scenery  on  the  conti- 
nent. The  mountains  exhibit  an  undulating  appear- 
ance, are  thickly  studded  with  pines  and  firs,  and  in- 
terspersed with  deep  and  almost  impenetrable  caverns. 

Sabbath-Day  Point,  24  miles  from  Caldwell,  is  a 
projection  of  the  main  land  into  the  Lake  from  the  west 
side.  It  is  a  place  on  which  the  English  troops  land- 
ed on  the  Sabbath  during  the  F;*ench  war,  and  is  the 
spot  on  which  a  sanguinary  battle  was  fought  with  the 
Indians.  The  English,  with  no  chance  of  retreat,  were 
all  killed.  From  thence,  3  miles,  is  a  small  island  call- 
ed the  Scotch  Bonnet.  Three  miles  further  on  the 
west  shore  of  the  lake,  is  a  little  hamlet  called  by  the 
inhabitants  the  city  of  Hague,  containing  only  two  or 
three  dwellings,  and  as  many  saw  mills.  The  lake  is 
here  4  miles  wide,  being  its  greatest  width.  From  tliis 
place  to 

Roger's  Slide  is  3  miles.  This  is  celebrated  as 
the  spot  where  Col.  Rogers  escaped  from  the  Indians 
during  the  French  war.  The  descent  is  an  angle  of 
about  25  degrees,  over  a  tolerable  smooth  rock,  200 
feet  in  height.  The  Col.  who  had  been  a  great  foe  to 
the  Indians,  was  nearly  surrounded  by  them  on  the  top 
of  the  mountain,  and  found  no  other  means  of  escape 


190 


riCONDEUOGA. 


than  to  slide  down  this  precipice.  It  being  winter,  and 
having  snow  shoes  on  his  toet,  he  landed  safcdy  on  the 
ice.  The  Indians  afterwards  saw  him  ;  but  supposing 
that  no  human  being  could  liave  made  the  descent,  and 
that  he  must,  of  course,  be  supernatural,  they  concluded 
it  not  only  useless,  but  dangerous  to  follow  him. 

Anthony's  Nose,  so  called  from  its  singular  shape, 
13  a  high  rock,  nearly  opposite  to  Roger's  Slide.  The 
shores  here  arc  bold  and  contracted,  and  exhibit  mas- 
sive rocks,  which  are  from  50  to  100  feet  in  height. 
From  thence  to 

Prisoner's  Island,  is  two  miles,  a  spot  where  pris- 
oners were  confined  during  the  French  war;  and  di- 
rectly west  of  tliis  is  Lord  Howe's  Point,  so  called 
from  being  the  place  where  Lord  Howe  landed  imme- 
diately previous  to  the  battle  in  which  he  was  killed  at 
Ticonderoga.  He  was  a  brother  of  the  late  Lord  Howe, 
who  commanded  the  British  forces  at  Philadelpliia  du- 
ring the  revolutionary  war.  The  water  here,  from  a 
deep  green,  assumes  a  lighter  color,  owing  to  a  clayey 
bottom.  From  thence  to  the  outlet  of  the  lake,  which 
terminates  the  steam-boat  passage,  is  one  mile.  Three 
miles  further,  over  a  circuitous  and  uneven  road,  in  an 
easterly  direction,  is  the  fort  and  ruins  of 

Ticonderoga.  The  point  projects  between  the  lake 
on  one  side,  which  here  suddenly  expands  to  the  west, 
and  the  creek  on  the  other,  which  unites  the  waters  of 
lakes  George  and  Champlain.  On  the  opposite  side 
of  the  latter  lake,  in  a  south  east  direction,  stands 
Mount  Indepeiidence.  Mount  Defiance,  720  feet  in 
height,  is  situated  across  the  creek  directly  west  of 


•■) 


\ 


> 


UNNWtW.. 


\g  winter,  and 
safely  on  the 
Jbut  supposing 
|c  descent,  and 
they  concluded 
)W  him. 

lingular  shape, 
"'s  Slide.     The 
Id  exhibit  mas- 
feet  in  height. 

pot  where  pris- 
h  war ;  and  di- 
oiNT,  so  called 
3  landed  imme- 
he  w^as  killed  at 
ate  Lord  Howe, 
Philadclpliia  du- 
ter  here,  from  a 
i^ing  to  a  clayey 
the  lake,  which 
ne  mile.  Three 
^en  road,  in  an 
)f 

Btween  the  lake 
ids  to  the  west, 
s  the  waters  of 
e  opposite  side 
rection,  stands 
ce,  720  feet  in 
ircctly  west  of 


TIC0NDER06A. 


191 


the  Fort.  This  height  was  occupied  by  the  artillery 
of  General  Burgoyne  in  1777,  when  the  Americana 
were  compelled  to  evacuate  Ticonderoga.  The  for- 
tress of  Ticonderoga  was  first  constructed  by  the 
French  in  1756.  The  works  appear  to  have  been  ve- 
ry strong,  are  elevated  about  200  feet  above  the  level 
of  lake  Champlain,  and  many  of  tlie  walls  are  still 
standing.  The  magazine  is  nearly  entire.  It  is  35  feet 
long,  15  feet  wide,  and  8  feet  high,  constructed  under 
ground,  of  stone,  and  arched.  A  subterraneous  pas- 
saofe  leads  from  the  southwest  corner  of  the  works  to 
the  lake,  20  or  30  rods  in  length.  Through  this  pas- 
sage Col.  Ethan  Allen  passed  when  he  took  possession 
of  the  fort  "in  the  name  of  the  Great  Jehovah^  and  the 
Continental  Congress.^^  The  rerrifiins  of  another  forti- 
fication, built  during  the  revolutionary  war,  are  still  to 
be  seen  about  60  rods  farther  south  on  the  point  adjoin- 
ing the  lake.  The  walls  next  to  the  Icke  are  nearly  60 
feet  in  height. 

In  1758  Ticonderoga  was  attacked  by  General  Aber- 
crombie,  who  was  repulsed  with  the  loss  of  2,000  men. 
On  the  approach  of  Gon.  Amherst,  in  1759,  it  was  quiet- 
ly abandoned  by  the  French,  as  was  also  Crown  Point. 
It  continued  in  possession  of  the  British  until  the  year 
1 775,  when  it  was  taken  by  Col.  Allen.  On  evacuating 
the  fort  in  1777,  Gen.  St.  Clair  ordered  a  detachment 
to  accompany  the  American  stores  and  baggage  to 
Whitehall,  where  ;hey  were  pursued  by  Gen.  Bur- 
goyne and  from  thence  to  Fort  Ann.  At  the  latter 
place  a  smart  skirmish  ensued  between  the  two  parties, 
in  which  the  British  sustained  a  considerable  loss.  The 
main  army  retired  from  Ticonderoga  to  Hubbardton, 

li2 


I 


! 


192 


EXCURSION    TO    THE    WEST. 


where  a  party  consisting  of  about  1,000  under  Col. 
Warner,  were  overtaken  by  the  British  advanced  guard, 
and  after  a  severe  action  abandoned  the  field  to  superior 
numbers.  From  thence  tliey  joined  General  Schuyler 
at  Fort  Edward  on  the  12th  July,  1777. 

From  Ticonderoga,  travellers  may  be  conveyed  across 
the  lake  to  Larrabee's,  in  Shoreham,  Vermont,  a  dis- 
tance of  one  mile,  where  those  designing  a  tour  to 
Montreal  and  Ctuebec,  may  take  passage  in  a  Cham- 
plain  steam-boat,  for  St.  John's.  The  boat  arrives  at 
Larrabee's  towards  evening,  and  the  passage  from 
thence  to  Plattsburgh,  with  the  exception  of  about  15 
miles  to  Crown  Point,  is  generally  in  the  night.  At 
present  the  most  usual  arrangements  of  the  tourist  are, 
after  visiting  Lake  George  and  Ticonderoga,  to  return 
to  the  Springs,  and  from  thence  to  proceed  by  the  rail 
road  to  Schenectady,  where  a  post  coach  or  packet  boat 
can  be  taken  three  times  a  day  for  Niagara. 

EXCURSION  TO  THE  WEST. 

Travellers  who  design  to  visit  Niagara  and  return 
without  proceeding  down  Lake  Ontario  to  Montreal, 
will  find  an  excursion  the  most  pleasant  and  diversified 
by  travelling  in  stages  and  canal  boats  alternately.  The 
stage  route  affords  a  better  prospect  of  the  populous 
parts  of  the  country  ;  but  is  generally  so  far  from  the 
canal,  that  no  opportunity  is  given  of  witnessing  many 
of  the  thriving  villages  on  its  banks.  It  is  therefore  ad- 
visable so  to  arrange  a  tour  that  the  most  interesting 
parts  of  both  routes  may  be  seen  in  going  and  return- 
ing. To  effect  this,  a  packet  boat  may  be  taken  at 
Schenectady  at  evening,  which  will  pass  Little  Falls 


f 


\, 


EXCUUSIOV    TO    THE    WEST. 


193 


under  Col. 
lanced  guard, 
lid  to  superior 
pral  Schuyler 

veyed  across 
|rmont,  a  dis- 
g  a  tour  to 
in  a  Cham- 
)at  arrives  at 
)assage  from 
of  about  15 
le  night.  At 
le  tourist  are, 
ga,  to  return 
ed  by  the  rail 
3r  packet  boat 
ra. 

:sT. 

a  and  return 
to  Montreal, 
nd  diversified 
rnately.    The 
the  populous 
)  far  from  the 
lessing  many 
therefore  ad- 
3t  interesting 
?  and  return- 
be  taken  at 
Little  Falls 


f 

I 


■■ar 


I. 


the  next  morning,  affording  the  tourist  an  interesting 
view  of  the  scenery  and  aqueduct  at  that  place,  and 
reach  Utica  in  the  aft^irnoon.  The  next  morning  a 
stage  can  bo  taken  for  Rochester,  via  Auburn,  reach- 
ing the  former  place  at  evening  of  the  second  day;  from 
whence  a  packet  boat  leaves  every  morning  reaching 
Lockport  at  daylight  the  next  morning.  Here  a  stage 
may  be  taken  for  the  Falls,  20  miles  distant,  or  the  pas- 
sage, by  canal,  continued  to  Bnf^ulo.  But  a  better 
method,  undoubtedly,  if  the  fatigue  of  land  travelling 
sliould  not  prevent,  is,  to  continue  on  the  stage  route 
from  Utica  direct  to  Buffalo,  by  way  of  Auburn,  Gene- 
va, Canandaigua  and  Batavia ;  and  return  by  canal  from 
Lockport  to  Utica,  stopping  at  least  a  day  at  each  of 
the  thriving  villages  of  Rochester  and  Syracuse  ;  where 
objects  of  sufficient  attraction  will  be  found  to  warrant 
even  a  protracted  visit. 

Heretofore,  the  months  of  July  and  August  have  been 
selected  for  an  excursion  to  the  west;  but  exprience 
has  abundantly  proved,  that  the  early  part  of  Septem- 
ber is  far  preferable.  The  heat  of  summer  having  then 
in  a  measure  subsided,  the  air  is  more  salubrious,  and 
the  pleasure  of  a  journey  less  interrupted  by  dust,  per- 
plexity and  fatigue.  Added  to  this,  it  is  the  season  of 
peaches  ;  of  which  a  great  abundance  of  the  most  de- 
licious are  to  be  found  between  Canandaigua  and  Buf- 
falo. 

That  tourists  may  be  the  better  enabled  to  gratify  their 
taste  as  to  the  mode  of  travelling,  we  subjoin  a  sketch 
of  the  stage  and  canal  routes,  disconnected,  premising 
that  a  change  from  one  to  the  other  may  be  easily  ef- 
fected at  various  points. 


194 


PHOM    SARATOGA    srRINC:^ 


P 


FROM  SARATOGA  SPRINGS  TO  BUFR'XLO. 

RAIL  ROAD  AND  STAGE  ROUTE. 

Distance  from 


I. 


<1^ 

.  • 

o 

D- 

>> 

d 

C/J 

Cl. 

cd 

■♦-' 

o 

bi) 

c 

■«-> 

4) 

o 

t 

■^ 

u 

3 
<1 

M 


Snrafotra  Spriii.fjs, 

JJullston  iS]>a 

h!clu»nocfu(i  y, 

Arnst(T(lain, 

Schoharie  Crock, 

Cautrlinawaira, 

Pahitine, 

1^'ort  Plain, 

Jsast  Canada  Crock,. . , 

liiMlo  Falls, 

Horkiinov, 

Frankfort, 

Utioa, 

Now  Tiavrlovtl, 

]Manr1i!\stor, 

Vonion, 

Oneida  C.istio, 

Lenox, 

aiialilyTTill, 

Chitt<'nin<xo, 

]\lanlius<, 

JainoaviiK.', 

Onondajva  T.Iollovv,, , . .  j 

Onondaora  Hill, 

Marcellua, 

Sk.ineatclcs, 

Auburn , ... 


0 

0 

21 

97 

172 

300 

H 

Oi 

lU 

90i 

IGSi 

29:<i 

\4i 

21 

0 

7G 

151 

279 

IG 

37 

IG 

GO 

135 

2G3 

7 

44 

23 

53 

128 

256 

4 

4H 

27 

49 

124 

252 

12 

GO 

39 

37 

112 

240 

3 

G3 

42 

34 

109 

237 

4 

G7 

4G 

30 

105 

233 

7 

74 

53 

23 

98 

226 

8 

82 

Gl 

15 

90 

218 

G 

HH 

G7 

9 

84 

212 

9 

\)7 

7G 

0 

75 

203 

4 

101 

SO 

4 

71 

199 

5 

106 

85 

9 

GG 

194 

H 

114 

93 

17 

58 

18G 

5 

119 

98 

22 

53 

181 

3 

122 

101 

25 

50 

178 

3 

125 

104 

28 

47 

175 

5 

130 

109 

33 

42 

170 

8 

138 

117 

41 

34 

1G2 

G 

144 

123 

47 

28 

156 

4 

148 

127 

51 

24 

152 

3 

151 

130 

54 

21 

149 

8 

159 

133 

62 

13 

141 

6 

1G5 

144 

68 

7 

135 

7 

172 

151 

75 

0 

123 

DUFP'XLO. 


/' 


torn 


3 
-^ 


1)7 

iM)i 

70 

()0 

r.3 

49 

37 

34 

30 

23 

15 

0 

0 

4 

9 
17 
22 


172  .300 

ir>i 

1 35 


128 
124 
112 

109 
105 

98 
90 
84 
75 
71 

no 

58 
53 
50 
47 
42 
34 
28 
24 
21 
13 
7 
0 


279 

203 

25G 

252 

240 

237 

233 

220 

218 

212 

203 

199 

194 

180 

181 

178 

175 

170 

102 

150 

152 

149 

141 

135 

128 


TO    TlirFFAl.O. 


19! 


Dislana   from 


«5 
J 

c 

a, 

c 
S 

rt 

• 

d 

o 

*-> 

Auburn. 

Cuynpa, 

Soncca  Falls, 

Waterloo, 

Geii(;vn, 

Canandaif^ua,    ........ 

East  nioornCn'Id, 

West  liloonificld, 

Lima, 

East  Avon, 

Avon  Post  Ofiicc, 

Caledonia, 

Lcroy, 

Batavia, 

Pembroke, 

Clarence, 

Wiliiamsvillc, 

Buffalo,  . « 


8 
4 
4 
7 

10 
9 
5 
4 
5 
2 
8 
6 

10 

14 
8 
8 

10 


180 

184 

188 

195 

211 

220 

225 

229 

234 

236 

244 

250 

200 

274 

282 

290 

300 


159 

103 

107 

174 

190 

199 

201 

208 

213 

215 

223 

229 

239 

253 

261 

269 

279 


83 

87 

91 

98 

114 

123 

128 

132 

137 

139 

147 

153 

163 

177 

185 

193 

203 


8 

12 

16 

23 

39 

48 

53 

57 

62 

64 

72 

78 

88 

102 

110 

118 

128 


P3 

120 

116 

112 

105 

89 

80 

75 

71 

66 

64 

56 

50 

40 

26 

18 

10 

0 


A  rail  road  carriage  can  bo  taken  at  Saratoga  Springs 
three  times  a  day  for  Schenectady,  the  route,  together 
with  a  description  of  the  city,  having  been  noticed  in  the 
preceding  pages.  At  Sclicnectady  stages  are  taken 
three  times  a  day  for  Utica,  so  that  a  passage  from  the 
Springs  to  the  latter  place  can  be  effected  in  about  12 
hours.     Fare,  from  $4  to  $4,50. 

Amsterdam,  16  miles  west  of  Schenectady,  is  the 
first  village  of  any  magnitude  that  is  reached  on  the 
route.    It  is  located  on  the  north  side  of  the  Mohawk 


((<" 


m" 


MMfMi* 


196 


•TAGS  RUUTB — CAUOHNAWAGA. 


river,  over  which  there  is  a  substantial  bridge.  The  vil- 
lage contains  about  100  houses,  and  is  destined  to  be- 
come a  place  of  considerable  importance  from  its  prox- 
imity to  the  river  and  the  Erie  canal,  but  more  especial- 
ly so,  from  the  creek  which  passes  through  the  village, 
and  which,  within  half  a  mile,  falls  over  a  number  of 
beautiful  cascades,  affording  admirable  facilities  for 
manufacturing  operations.  The  canal  is  on  the  south 
side  of  the  river,  and  runs  parallel  therewith  for  several 
miles. 

Schoharie  Creek,  7  miles.  The  ruins  of  Fort  Hun- 
ter, at  the  mouth  of  this  creek,  are  still  visible.  It  was 
an  important  post  during  the  early  wars  of  this  country. 
A  chapel  built  by  Gtueen  Anne  for  the  Indians,  is  also 
to  be  seen  near  this  place,  called  Q,uetn  Anne's  Chapel. 
The  canal  crosses  the  creek,  by  means  of  a  dam  and 
guard  lock. 

Caughnawaga,  4  miles  farther,  has  little  to  render 
it  a  place  of  interest,  if  we  except  an  antiquated  stone 
church,  which  has  been  built  between  60  and  70  years, 
without  having  undergone  any  material  improvement  or 
change  during  that  period.* 


I 


*  Johnstown,  celebrated  as  the  former  residence  of 
Sir  William  Johnson,  is  4  miles  north-east  of  this  place, 
off  the  turnpike.  The  village  contains  between  2  and 
300  buildings,  a  bank,  court  house,  jail,  3  churches,  an 
academy,  and  2  printing  offices.  It  is  situated  on  a 
handsome  plain,  with  streets  running  at  right  angles ; 
and  though  many  of  the  buildings  are  antiquated,  yet 
there  are  several  handsome  private  residences.  The 
court  house,  jail  and  Episcopal  church  were  built  by 
Sir  William  ;  beneath  the  latter  of  which  his  remains 


Ige.  The  vil- 
ealined  to  be- 
from  its  prox- 
more  especial - 
gh  the  village, 
a  number  of 
facilities  for 
on  the  south 
ivith  for  several 


STAGE  ROUTE — FORT  PLAIN. 


197 


3 
iS 


is  of  Fort  Hun- 
visible.  It  was 
of  this  country. 
Indians,  is  also 
I  Anne's  Chapel. 
8  of  a  dam  and 

little  to  render 
antiquated  stone 
60  and  70  years, 
I  improvement  or 


mer  residence  of 
3astofthis  place, 
IS  between  2  and 
il,  3  churches,  an 
is  situated  on  a 
at  ri^ht  angles ; 
B  antiquated,  yet 
residences.  The 
;h  were  built  by 
liicb  his  remains 


■  f 


Twelve  milet  farther  the  stage  stops  at  Palatine  ; 
affording  a  beautiful  prospect  of  the  village  of  Ganajo- 
HARiE,  situated  on  the  plain  below,  and  on  the  banks 
of  the  canal. 

Fort  Plain,  a  flourishing  little  village,  is  3  miles 
west  of  Palatine.  A  fort,  from  which  the  place  derives 
its  name,  was  constructed  here  during  the  revolution- 
ary war;  though  but  little  of  its  remains  are  now  to  be 
snen.  The  place  was  originally  settled  by  Germans, 
who  suffered  ceverely  from  the  early  Indian  wars  of  this 
country.  During  the  revolution,  those  who  had  takien 
refuge  in  the  fort,  were  surprised  by  Capt.  Butler,  on 
his  return  from  burning  Cherry  Valley,  and  became  a 
prey  to  similar  atrocities. 


now  repose.  In  opening  the  vault  a  few  years  since,  it 
was  found  to  contain  so  much  water  that  the  coffin 
w.as  actually  floating  on  its  surface.  The  lid,  composed 
of  mahogany,  was  taken  off,  and  still  remains  inside  of 
tho  church.  It  bears  this  inscription,  formed  with  brass 
nails  :  "  Sir  Wm  Johnson  Bt  Obiit  1774."  The  house, 
or  what  is  called  the  "  Hall,"  formerly  occupied  by  Sir 
W.  is  about  a  mile  from  the  village.  Attached  to  it  is 
a  building  which  was  used  by  him  as  a  fort ;  into  which 
he  had  occasion,  at  times,  to  retreat  from  the  assaults 
of  the  Indians.  The  marks  of  tomahawks  are  still  vis- 
ible on  the  stair-case  in  the  main  building. 

The  battle  of  Johnstown,  October,  1781,  in  which 
the  British  and  Indians  were  defeated,  was  fought  on 
the  "  Hall"  farm.  The  American  troops,  consisting  of 
between  '.  and  500,  were  commanded  by  the  venerable 
Col.  Willet,  who  lately  died  at  New- York.  After  the 
defeat,  the  enemy  were  pursued  by  him  to  the  Canada 
creek,  where  several  were  killed,  including  Maj.  Butler. 
Out  of  607  of  the  hostile  force  sent  on  this  ezpeditioni 
but  220  returned  to  Canada. 


ma 


1^^  I, 


las 


STAGE  ROUTE —LilTLE  FALLS. 


Tise  East  Canada  Cheek  is  passed  by  a  subitantial 
bridge,  in  going  4  miles  farther ;  from  wliich  to 

Little  Falls,  is  7  miles.    This  place  takes  its  name 
from  a  cataract  in  the  vicinity,  which,  in  size,  is  much 
inferior  to  the  celebrated  Cahoes,  and  has,  therefore, 
been  denominated  the  Litlle  Falls  of  the  Mohawk.     A 
continuation  of  the  chain  of  Catsbergs  crosses  the  riv- 
er at  this  place,  and  forms  a  rough  bed  for  the  waters 
of  the  cataract,  which  pour  over  the  rocky  fragments 
in  the  wildest  confusion.     Approaching  from  the  south- 
east, a  lofty  ridge  of  mountains,  frowning  in  grandeur 
on  either  side,  conceals  the  course  of  the  river  and  the 
falls,  whose  vicinity  is  announced  only  by  the  distant 
din  and  foam  of  its  waters.     For  a  considerable  dis- 
tance, a  narrow  pass  only  is  allowed  for  a  road,  with 
immense  natural  battlements  of  rock  on  either  side,*af- 
fording  a  sublime  and  interesting  spectacle.     About 
half  a  mile  from  the  village  the  road  turns  suddenly  to 
the  left,  presenting  a  view  of  the  falls  tumbling  with 
irresistible  violence  over  a  gradual  rocky  descent  of 
about  80  rods.    At  the  termination  of  the  ascent  is  sit- 
uated the  village,  containing  about  200  houses  and  2000 
inhabitants.      A  cluster  of  buildings,  rising  between 
the  rushing  waters  of  the  Mohawk  on  the  one  hand, 
and  the  rugged  clilfs  and  eminences  on  the  other;  the 
smooth  current  of  the  stream  above  gently  gliding  to 
the  tumultuous  scene  below,  and  beyond  the  distant 
vale  of  the  Mohawk  diversificul  with  fields,  orchards, 
meadows,  and  farm  houses,  all  contribute  to  set  off  the 
romantic  appearance  for  which  this  place  is  so  justly 
celebrated.    This  village  derives  most  of  its  importance 
from  the  facilities  for  trade  and  commerce  afforded  by 


i      w 


-L^. 


STAGE    ROUTE MTTLE    FALLS. 


199 


by  a  subitantial 
vliich  to 

takes  its  name 
in  size,  is  much 

has,  therefore, 
le  Mohawk.     A 

crosses  the  riv- 
d  for  the  waters 
rocky  fragments 
g  from  the  south- 
ning  in  grandeur 
the  river  and  the 
ily  by  the  distant 
considerable  dis- 

for  a  road,  with 

on  either  sidc,'af- 

pectacle.     About 

turns  suddenly  to 

ills  tumbling  with 

rocky  descent  of 

f  the  ascent  is  sit- 

10  houses  and  2000 

;s,  rising  between 

on  the  one  hand, 

on  the  other ;  the 

gently  gliding  to 
)eyond  the  distant 
th  fields,  orchards, 
ributc  to  set  off  the 
place  is  so  justly 
St  of  its  importance 
nmerce  afforded  by 


-I. 
1 


means  of  the  Mohawk  river  and  the  Erie  canal.  Boats 
were  formerly  transported  around  the  falls  through 
a  canal  on  the  north  side  of  the  river.  This  old  ca- 
nal contains  8  locks  and  is  now  connected  with  the  Erie 
canal  on  the  south  side  of  the  river  by  means  of  an 
aqueduct  184  feet  in  length.  The  descent  of  the  Erie 
canal  here,  in  the  distance  of  one  mile,  is  40  feet,  which 
is  passed  by  5  locks. 

Travellers  will  always  find  it  interesting  to  spend 
some  time  at  this  place,  in  viewing  its  great  natural 
and  artificial  works.  The  Jlqueduct  across  the  river  is 
one  of  the  finest  specimens  of  masonry  on  the  whole 
line  of  the  canal,  though  less  stupendous  than  the  locks 
at  Lockport,  and,  in  extent,  falling  considerably  short 
of  the  aqueduct  at  Rochester.  The  river  is  passed  on 
three  beautiful  arches  of  from  40  to  50  feet  in  height, 
with  flaofging  on  cithor  side  of  the  canal,  and  a  strong 
iron  railinfj.  .  After  crof^sinsr  on  the  flajrcinsr,  the  stran- 
ger  should  return  on  the  wooden  bridge  west  of  the 
aqueduct;  which  being  several  foet  lower,  affords  a 
fine  view  of  the  arches,  and  of  the  extensive  basin  in 
the  river  immediately  beneath  the  centre  arch ;  formed, 
doubtless,  by  the  action  of  round  stones  sot  in  motion 
by  the  wa  ter. 

The  En.3  canal,  which  is  on  the  south  side  of  the 
river,  winds  its  way  for  some  distance  along  the  side  of 
a  bold  and  lofty  mountain,  the  channel  resting  on  a 
wall  nearly  30  feet  high,  constructed  from  the  bed  of 
the  river  at  great  expense.  The  view  aftbrded  from  a 
packet  boat  of  mountain  scenery  on  eitheir  side,  with  a 
bare  passage  for  the  dashing  waters  of  the  Mohawk 
between,  is  highly  interesting  and  sublime.     Whicher- 


(  I 


200 


STAGE    ROUTE — LITTLH    FALLS. 


r; 


er  way  tho  eye  is  tiirned,  it  rests  on  hu^r  masses  of 
granite  and  limestone,  piled  in  heaps.  These  rocks  in 
some  places  rise  to  a  great  heijrht,  almost  perpendicu- 
lar, presenting  a  bleak  dark  surface,  unbleaclied  by  the 
thousand  storms  which  have  beat  upon  them  ;  others 
present  a  ra^i^ed  and  uneven  face,  crowned  and  over- 
hung by  dark  evergreens,  dropping  their  verdure  into 
the  foaming  torrent  below  ;  the  fissures  between  others 
of  these  huge  piles  produce  liickory,  maj)lc  and  other 
trees,  which  hang  from  them,  and  with  their  sombre 
shadow  deepen  the  gloomy  darkness  of  the  rocks  from 
which  they  spring;  whilst  tho  scanty  soil  upon  others 
gives  life  and  penurious  nourishnuMit  to  dwarf  oaks  and 
vegetation  peculiar  to  similar  inhospitable  regions.  In 
this  scene,  where  the  rude  l)ut  magnificent  works  of 
nature  are  so  profusely  dis}>l;iyed,  the  inuigination  is 
overpowered,  in  their  sublimity,  and  the  proudest  works 
of  man,  and  man  himself,  lose  th- ir  importance.  Even 
the  canal,  cut  upon  tlie  nnghty  and  enduring  precipice 
— the  road  entrenched  upon  the  mountain  side,  and  tho 
substantial  locks  and  gates,  all  sink  into  comparative 
insignificance  under  the  mighty  shadows  of  the  ever- 
lasting hills. 

Crystals  of  quarts,  the  most  translucent,  it  is  believ- 
ed, of  any  heretofore  discovered  in  the  state,  are  found 
in  considerable  quantities  a  short  distance  from  the 
village.* 


*  About  10  miles  SE.  of  this  place,  on  the  ravine  of 
a  small  stream,  which  empties  into  the  Osquake  cr^-ek, 
arc  some  of  the  most  interesting  specimens  of  petrifac- 
tions ever  discovered  in  the  country.     1  hey  consist  of 


Ll9. 


STAGE    ROUTS IIERKIMEU. 


201 


111  TO  masses  of 

These  rocks  in 

lost  perpendicu- 

nbleached  by  the 

n  tlicm  ;  others 

wned  and  over- 

cir  verdure  into 

s  between  others 

mni)lc  and  other 

ith   their  sombre 

of  the  rocks  from 

^  soil  upon  others 

to  dwarf  oaks  and 

table  regions.     In 

rnifieent  works  of 

he  imagination  is 

:lic  proudest  works 

mportance.     Even 

enduring  precipice 

intain  side,  and  tho 

I  into  comparative 

idows  of  the  ever- 

dneent,  it  is  bcliev- 

Llie  state,  are  found 

distance  from  the 


ce,  on  the  ravine  of 
tVie  Osquake  er^ek, 
jcimens  of  petrifar- 
r.     They  consist  of 


The  road,  after  leaving  Little  Falls,  follows  the  bank 
of  the  river,  in  full  view  of  the  rich  alluvial  vale  called 
the  Herkimer  and  German  Flats.  This  region,  now 
glowing  in  all  the  beauty  of  successful  cultivation,  was 
once  the  theatre  of  the  most  sanguinary  warfare.  Du- 
ring the  French  and  revolutionary  wars,  it  was  the 
Bcene  of  many  barbarous  incursions  of  the  whites  as 
well  as  savages.  It  was  invaded  l)y  the  French  after 
the  capture  of  Fort  r).swego  in  175C,  and  in  17i:>7  the 
settlements  were  desolated  by  fire  and  sword.  In  the 
centre  of  these  flats  is  situated  the  village  of 

Herkimer,  8  miles  from  Little  Falls.  This  village, 
as  well  as  that  of  Little  Falls,  forms  a  part  of  the  town 


a  mass  from  20  to  25  feet  lon«r,  and  from  3  to  5  feet  in 
diameter,  composed  partly  of  petrifactions  and  partly  of 
incrustations.  The  lower  part  exhibits  the  trunk  of  a 
hemlock  tree,  2  feet  in  diameter,  while  the  other  parts 
Bfem  to  have  been  formed  of  fragments  of  the  same 
kind  of  tree.  The  transition  from  wood  to  tufa  has 
been  effected  with  so  much  precision,  that  the  whole 
ligneous  structure  of  the  wood,  its  concentric  layers, 
coating,  or  rings,  gum,  knots,  &c.  are  most  perfectly 
preservefl.  From  some  unknown  cause,  the  waters 
which  issued  out  of  the  declivity  above  the  mass  have 
failed  or  been  divertetl,  so  that  petrifaction  has  ceased 
at  this  spot.  But  in  other  parts  ot  the  declivity  from 
which  waters  issue,  they  are  so  highly  impregnated 
with  calcareous  and  other  matters  as  to  incrust  pieces 
of  wood  coming  within  their  reach.  INot  far  from  this 
place,  t]\e  road  has  been  cut  tlu-ougha  tufa  rock  of  very 
large  dimensions ;  on  the  sides  of  which  are  seen  pe- 
trified pieces  of  wood  imbedded  within  the  mass.  When- 
ever time  will  permit,  mineralogists  will  find  it  inter- 
esting to  stop  a  day  at  Herkimer,  for  the  purpose  of 
visiting  these  extraordinary  formations. 


trtlJt.til. 


UTICA. 

of  Herkimer,  which  extends  along  the  banks  of  the 
Mohawk  about  15  miles.  West  Canada  Creek  enters 
the  river  about  half  a  mile  east  of  the  village,  and  is 
passed  near  its  mouth  by  a  well  constructed  bridge. 
The  village  is  principally  built  on  two  parallel  streets. 
It  contains  about  130  houses,  and  not  less  than  1000 
inhabitants.  Every  appearance  indicates  a  thriving  and 
prosperous  village.  Bi  twccn  Herkimer  and  Utica  is 
the  small  but  thriving  village  of  Frankfort,  about  6 
miles  from  the  former  and  9  from  the  latter  place. 
The  country  after  leaving  Herkimer  is  quite  level,  and 
remarkable  fertile,  though  not  in  a  high  state  of  culti- 
vation. 

UTICA. 

This  flourishing  place  stands  on  the  south  bank  of 
the  Mohawk  river,  94  miles  westwardly  of  Albany.  It 
occupies  the  scite  of  old  Fort  Schuyler,  where  a  gar- 
rison was  kept  previous  to  the  revolution.  Some  re- 
mains of  this  fort  aro  still  to  be  seen  between  the  east- 
ern extremity  of  Main  street  and  the  river.  A  few  Ger- 
mans were  settled  here  previous  to  the  revolutionary 
war;  but  a  part  wore  captured  by  the  Indians  and  the 
remnant  sought  a  place  of  more  security.  The  first 
permanent  settler  established  himself  about  4  miles  west 
of  Fort  Schuyler  in  1784.  Five  years  afterwards  a  few 
families  established  themselves  on  the  scite  of  the  pre- 
sent town.  In  1798  a  village  charter  was  granted; 
and  in  1832,  the  place  was  incorporated  into  a  city. 
In  1813,  it  contained  1700  inhabitants;  in  1816,  2828; 
in  1820,  2972;  in  1823,  4017  ;  in  1826,  6040;  in  1823, 
7460;  and  in  1830,  8323.  The  village  is  regularly  laid 
out,  the  streets  of  good  width,  and  mostly  paved.    Gen- 


STAGS    ROUTS I'TICA. 


203 


e  banks  of  the 
a  Creek  enters 
village,  and  is 

structed  bridge. 

parallel  streets. 

less  than  1000 
es  a  thriving  and 
ber  and  Utica  is 

KFORT,  about  6 
the  latter  place. 

quite  level,  and 

h  state  of  culti- 


he  south  bank  of 
ly  of  Albany.  It 
ler,  where  a  gar- 
ution.  Some  re- 
betwcen  the  east- 
iver.  A  few  Ger- 
thc  revolutionary 
le  Indians  and  the 
curity.  The  first 
about  4  miles  west 
s  afterwards  a  few 
e  scite  of  the  prc- 
ter  was  granted ; 
)rated  into  a  city. 
s;  in  1816,2828; 
26,6040;  in  1828, 
pre  is  regularly  laid 
)stly  paved.    Gen- 


i 


Cice  street,  in  paticubr,  is  peculiarly  pleasant,  and  for 
the  most  part  adorned  with  elegant  stores  and  dwel- 
lings. 

There  arc  numcrouq  literary,  benevolent  and  reli- 
gious institutions  in  this  place.  Among  these  the  Onei- 
da Institute  of  Science  and  Industry  is  perhaps  most 
worthy  of  remark,  from  its  uniting  manurd  with  men- 
tal labor  on  the  part  of  the  students.  There  is  a  farm 
attached  to  it  comprising  one  hundred  and  fourteen 
acres,  upon  which  each  student  labors  from  three  to 
four  hours  per  day,  and  it  is  said  that  the  experiment 
thus  far  has  proved,  that  labor  from  3  to  5  hours  per  day 
pays  the  board  of  the  studf^nt  in  this  plentiful  region. 
It  is  principally  intended  for  the  education  of  those  de- 
signed for  the  ministry,  but  its  privileges  are  common 
to  all  youth  of  unexceptionable  character.  There  are 
also  a  classical  academy,  a  library,  a  county  and  city 
lyceum,  a  gymnasium,  two  seminaries  for  young  ladies, 
a  seminary  called  the  Clinton  Institute,  14  churches, 
some  of  which  are  very  elegant,  3  banks,  9  printing 
offices,  and  12  newspapers  and  periodical  publications. 

Hotels. — The  principal  hotels,  which  are  in  Gene- 
see street,  are  the  following  ;  City  Hotel,  by  11.  Ma- 
son, south  of  the  canal ;  Bagg's  Hotel,  near  the  Mo- 
hawk river;  Canal  Coffee  House,  by  Mr.  Shepherd, 
near  the  canal ;  Franklin  House,  by  R.  Sanger,  south 
of  the  canal ;  National  Hotel,  by  J.  Welles,  north  side 
of  the  canal  ;  Temperance  House,  do.  do.  These  ar'S 
all  excellent  establishments,  fitted  up  in  superior  style, 
and  are  hberally  patronized. 

The  lands  adjoining  Utica  are  richly  cultivated,  pre- 
senting a  succession  of  beautiful  farms   and  country 

l2  ^ 


II 

1 


I 


j^^Wfia^atr 


■ll 


HI 


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m 


204 


STAGE    ROUrn — UTICA. 


scats.  There  are  also  various  objects  of  attraction  in 
the  vicinity,  a  visit  to  which  may  be  ranked  among  tho 
pleasures  of  an  exctirsion  to  the  west.  Of  these  are 
Trenton  Falls,  at  the  north;  and  Whitesborough,  the 
York  Mills,  Clinton  Village  containing  Hamilton  Col- 
lege, and  Rome,  all  within  a  iew  miles  in  a  westerly 
direction. 

From  what  is  called  the  summit,  an  elevated  spot 
near  the  village,  a  charming  prospect  may  be  had  of 
the  adjacent  country,  and  particularly  of  the  vale  of 
the  Mohawk  for  several  miles  in  extent,  including  the 
beautiful  and  diversified  farms  which  rise  in  a  gentle 
acclivity  from  the  river. 

Packets. — Three  daily  lines  of  packets  run  between 
Utica  and  Schenectady.  The  lirst  hue  leaves  Utica  at 
7i  A.  M. ;  the  second  at  3  P.  M. ;  and  the  third  at  7 
P.  M.  From  1 8  to  20  hours  are  occupied  in  the  passage. 
Packet  boats  also  leave  for  Rochoster,  160  miles  dis- 
tant, at  half  past  1  P.  M.  and  at  *  P.  M.,  going  through 
in  about  3G  hours.  The  BuiTalo  packets  leave  at  half 
past  1  P.  M.,  and  are  three  days  on  tlieir  passage.  The 
Utica  and  Oswego  packets  leave  Utica  daily  on  the  ar- 
rival of  the  last  boat  from  Schenectady  in  the  afternoon. 
The  Chitteningo  and  Syracuse  packets  leave  Utica  at 
5  P.  U. 

Stages  to  the  West. — The  mail  stage  for  Buffalo, 
203  miles,  and  Lewiston,  leaves  daily  at  5  A.  M. ; 
through  in  3  days  by  day  light  only. 

The  Telegraph,  for  Buffalo,  leaves  daily  at  4  A.  M. ; 
through  in  33  to  36  hours ;  limited  to  six  passengers. 

The  Eagle,  for  Rochester,  140  miles,  leaves  daily  at 


of  attraction  in 
ikcd  among  tho 
Of  these  are 
itosborough,  the 
Hamilton  Col- 
;s  in  a  westerly 

,n  elevated  spot 
may  be  had  of 
y  of  the  vale  of 
nt,  including  the 
I  rise  in  a  gentle 

kets  run  between 
ic  leaves  Utica  at 
md  the  third  at  7 
Led  in  the  passage, 
.er,  160  miles  dis- 
M.,  going  through 
kets  leave  at  half 
eir  passage.  The 
ca  daily  on  the  ar- 
y  in  tho  afternoon, 
ets  leave  Utica  at 

I  stage  for  Buffalo, 
aily  at  5  A.  M. ; 

daily  at  4  A.  M. ; 
3  six  passengers, 
les,  leaves  daily  at 


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TKKNTON     FAlli. 


♦Oj 


10  A.  M.,  or  on  the  arrival  of  the  packets  from  Sche- 
nectady ;  through  In  30  hours. 

Th'j  Pilot,  for  Buffalo,  leaves  daily  at  6  P.  M. ;  thro' 
in  40  to  44  hours. 

Extra  coaches,  with  regular  relays  of  horses,  are  also 
furnished  at  all  times  for  Niagara  Falls,  220  miles,  and 
for  Trenton  Falls,  15  miles. 

Stages  to  the  East. — The  Telegraph  and  Eclipse, 
limited  to  8  passengers  each,  leave  daily  from  7  to  8  A. 
M.,  and  arrive  at  Schenectady,  76  miles,  in  12  hours. 

TIm^  Pilot,  for  Schenectady,  loaves  daily  at  9  A.  M. 
and  arrives  in  time  for  the  evening  rail  road  car  for  Al- 
bany. 

The  stage  fare  from  Utica  to  Canandaigua,  114 
miles,  is  jji3,u0 ;  from  Uiica  to  Rochester,  140  miles, 
from  $4  to  !^4,50  ;  and  from  Utica  to  Buffalo,  203  miles, 
5^G,50. 

Among  the  excursions  aflbrded  to  the  traveller  while 
at  Utica,  none,  perhaps,  will  prove  more  interesting 
than  a  visit  to 

Trenton  Falls,  15  miles  north  of  the  city.  A  de- 
scription of  these  lalls  has  been  obligingly  furnished  to 
the  editor  of  this  work  by  James  Macauley,  Esq.,  au- 
thor of  a  History  of  the  State  of  New-York,  (a  work  of 
much  merit,  recently  published)  from  which  the  follow- 
ing extracts  are  made  ; 

"These  renowned  Fails  are  on  West  Canada  creek, 
between  22  and  24  milrs  above  its  confluence  v/ith  the 
MoluiVvk.  'i  he  creek  is  a  powerful  stream,  and  con- 
stitutes almost  one  half  of  the  river  at  the  coalescence. 
The  falls  cojiimrnce  a  liitic  above  the  high  bridge  on 


■  i    I.H 


J  i^  IP 


p 


"■"ViPiP*! 


mmm 


206 


TUENTON    FALLS. 


the  Black  river  road,  ond  terminate  at  Conrad's  milli, 
occupying  an  extent  of  rather  over  two  miles,  being  6 
in  number. 

"  The  creek  in  its  way  from  the  summit  of  the  high- 
land? of  Black  river  to  its  lower  valley,  lying  between 
the  latter  and  Hassenclever  mountain,  crosses  a  ridge 
of  limestone  4  or  5  miles  in  breadth,  stretching  through 
the  country  from  the  Mohawk  to  the  St.  Lawrence. 
Its  course  over  this  ridge  by  its  tortuous  bed  is  6  or  7 
miles,  2^  of  which  are  above  the  falls.     The  waters  of 
the  creek,  soon  after  they  have  reached  the  limestone, 
move  with  accelerated  stri^les  over  the  naked  rocks  to 
the  head  of  the  upper  fall,  where  they  are  precipitated 
18  or  20  feet  down  an  abrupt  ledge  into  a  spacious  ba- 
sin.    The  whole  descent  to  the  head  of  this  fall  in  the 
last  2  miles  is  computed  at  60  feet.     Here  a  deep  and 
winding  ravi^^e  begins,  which  extends  down  the  stream 
more  than  2  miles.     Its  average  depth  is  estimated  at 
100  feet,  and  its  average  breadth  at  the  top,  200.     The 
sides  and  bottom  consist  of  limestone  disposed  in  hori- 
zontal layers,  varying  in  thickness  from  some  inches  to 
a  foot  and  upwards,  and  abound  with  organic  remains. 
The  sides  of  the  ravine  are  shelving,  perpendicular  and 
overhanging;  and  some  of  the  trees  that  have  taken 
root  in  the  fissures  of  the  rocks  arc  now  pendant  over 
the  abyss,  where  they  form  the  most  fanciful  appear- 
ances imaginable.     The  country  along,  and  neighbor- 
ing the  ravine,  descends  to  the  south  and  is  mostly  cov- 
ered with  woods  which  exclude  every  appearance  till 
you  arrive  at  the  very  verge.      Of  the  six  falls,  that 
above  the  high  bridge  on  the  Black  river  road,  is  called 
iiie  Upper,  and  that  at  the  end  of  the  ravine,  Conrad's 


t-tum^^mmmmtn 


TRENTON    FALLS. 


207 


Fall.  The  first  in  the  ravine  is  a  mile  below  the  high 
bridge,  and  is  dcnomitiated  the  Cascades  ;  the  second, 
a  little  lower  down,  is  called  the  Mill-dam;  the  third, 
by  way  of  eniincncc,  are  culled  the  IIi<jh  Falls,  and  are 
40  rods  below  the  preceding;  the  lourth  is  nearly  70 
rods  below  the  Iii<ih  Falls,  and  is  called  Sherman's, 
All  these  are  formed  by  solid  reefs  of  rocks  which  cross 
the  bed  of  the  stream. 

"  The  water  at  the  Upper  Fall  descends  18  or  20  feet 
perpendicularly.  Below,  there  is  a  capacious  basin, 
out  of  which  the  stream  issues  in  a  diminished  bed  in- 
to the  ravine,  the  entrance  of  which  is  between  lofty 
barriers  of  rocks.  This  fall,  when  viewed  from  the 
bridge,  or  from  the  high  ground  west  of  the  creek,  has 
a  fine  appearance. 

"At  the  Cascades,  consisting  of  2  pitches,  with  in- 
tervening rapids,  the  water  falls  18  feet.  The  bed  of 
the  stream  is  here  contracted,  and  the  sides  serrated, 
the  banks  of  the  ravine  rising  with  abruptness  almost 
directly  in  the  roar. 

"The  Mill-dam  Fall,  which  is  the  second  within  the 
ravine,  has  an  abrupt  descent  of  14  feet,  the  stream  be- 
ing about  60  yards  broad  at  the  break. 

"The  High  Falls  are  40  rods  below  the  latter,  and 
consist  of  3  distinct  falls,  with  intervening  slopes  and 
some  small  pitches.  The  first  has  a  perpendicular  de- 
scent of  48  feet ;  in  floods  and  rises  the  water  covers 
the  whole  break  and  descends  in  one  sheet ;  but  at 
other  times,  mostly  in  two  grooves  at  the  west  side  of 
the  fall.  The  second  has  a  descent  of  about  1 1  feet ; 
the  third  37  feet ;  and  the  three,  including  the  slopes 
and  pitches,  109  feet.     In  freshets  and  floods,  the  en- 


208 


TRENTON    FALLS. 


I'll* 


tiro  b«Hl  at  the  llijLjh  Fall?^  ig  covered  with  wntcr  of  a 
milk  wliito  color  ;  and  the  spray,  wliirh  at  sucli  tiin<?s 
ascentls  in  pillars  towanisi  the  wky,  wlien  acted  upon 
by  t!ie  rays  of  the  sun,  exhibits  the  ruinbovv  in  all  ita 
brilliant  color?. 

*'  The  fourth  fall  if^  Sherman's,  and  is  distant  nearly 
70  rods  from  theMiiih  l^'alls.  The  descent  is  33  feet 
when  tlie  stream  is  low,  and  37  >vhen  hii^h.  In  droughts, 
the  water  jViid^ca  down  at  the  west  side. 

"The  last  fall  is  at  Conrad's  mills,  at  the  very  foot  of 
the  ravine,  and  is  0  feet. 

"  Besides  the  falls,  there  arc  several  raceways  or 
chutes,  from  10  to  20  rods  lonjj,  through  which  tho 
waters  pass  with  great  rapidity.  The  wdiole  deprcs- 
Bion  of  the  stream  from  the  top  of  tho  Upper  Fall  above 
the  high  bridge  to  the  foot  of  Conrad's  is  312  feet; 
and  if  Avc  add  the  descent  above  ti\o  Upper  Fall,  which 
is  computed  to  be  GO  feet,  and  that  below  Conrad's  fall 
in  half  a  mile,  which  is  estimated  at  15  feet,  wc  shall 
find  that  the  entire  depression  in  less  than  5  miles,  is 
387  feet. 

"The  falls,  raceways  and  rapids,  and,  in  truth,  the 
whole  bed  witliin  the  ravine,  exhibit  very  difRjrent  ap- 
pearances at  dilTorent  times.  These  arc  occasioned  by 
the  elevations  and  depressions  of  the  stream.  In  floods, 
the  whole  is  one  tremendous  rapid,  with  lour  cataracts 
and  several  chutes. 

"  The  best  time  to  visit  these  falls  is  when  the  stream 
is  low,  because  then  there  is  no  inconvenience  or  dilfi- 
culty  in  ascending  tho  ravine  from  the  foot  of  Sher- 
man's stairway  to  the  head  of  the  upper  raceway. 
Few  persons  who  visit  them  have  resolution  to  ascend 


"t'j^  *'' 


TRENTON    PALLS. 


209 


tho  ravine  from  the  stairway  to  the  basin  at  the  upper 
fall.  This,  however,  is  not  to  he  wondered  at,  heeauso 
tho  lofty  rooky  barriers  which  constitute  the  sides  of 
the  ravine  advance  to  tlie  walefn  edi^c  in  many  places, 
and  terminate  iit  fri^ditlMl  projectionM,  wliieh  cannot  be 
passed  without  the  most  imminent  dan<,'er.  Some  of 
these  dilTieuities,  however,  have  ln'cn  ohviatnl  by  blast- 
infj;  away  portions  of  the  roek.s  and  pullinn^  up  cluiins; 
and  persons  now  go  up  to  the  u[)per  raceway  without 
hazard. 

"  The  ravine,  witii  some  fvw  cxeeptionn,  is  still  bor- 
dered by  Woods,  and  persons  desirous  of  visiting  tlio 
falls  are  obliged  to  go  to  what  is  called  Sherman'?! 
house,  from  whence  tln;y  proceed  tlirough  t!ie  woods 
by  some  rude  paths.  On(!  of  these  leads  to  the  stair- 
way, which  descends  to  th(^  bottom  of  the  ravine,  and 
another  leads  up  to  the  High  b'alls.  The  former  is  us- 
ually preferred.  On  reaching  the  strand,  at  the  foot  of 
tlic  stairway,  yon  proceed  up  tlie  stream  at  first  upon 
the  strand,  and  then  by  a  narrow  winding  foot  path 
to  Sherman's  fall.  From  thene(3  you  advance  to  tho 
High  Falls,  a  part  of  the  way  l>eing  overhung  by  hirgo 
jutting  rocks  whicli  menace  you  witli  destruction. 
From  the  head  of  the  High  Falls  to  the  upper  end  of 
the  raceway  above  the  Cascades,  the  way  is  easy  when 
the  stream  is  low,  but  from  tlience  upwurdly  it  is  diiU- 
cult  and  dangerous. 

"  While  you  arc  passing  along  the  narrow  and  sinu- 
ous path  leading  by  the  prt)jections,  and  by  the  brinks 
of  headlong  precipices,  you  tremble  with  reverential 
awe,  when  you  consider  that  one  false  step  might  pre- 
cipitate you  into  tlie  resistl<;s3  torrent  below,  and  in  an 


■eaersfrw^^ep^aai 


210 


TRENTON    FALLS. 


instant  consign  you  to  a  watery  grave.  You  see  what 
a  feeble  creature  man  is,  and  are  forcibly  impressed  with 
ideas  of  the  wisdom  and  power  of  that  mighty  Being 
who  commanded  the  earth  to  emerge  from  the  deep  and 
the  waters  to  flow. 

"Along  the  bottom  and  lower  parts  of  the  ravine, 
numerous  organic  remains  are  found  enveloped  in  the 
rocks  which  are  easily  divisible.  The  remains  he  flat 
in  or  between  the  laminbe,  their  contours  and  compo- 
nent parts  usually  being  little  distorted  from  their  orig- 
inal shape  and  dimensions.  Sometimes  there  is  defect, 
occasioned  in  the  transition  from  the  animal  to  the 
Btony  or  fossil  state ;  but,  in  most  instances,  all  the 
parts  are  so  completely  defined,  that  not  only  the  order, 
but  the  genera  and  species  may  be  recognized.  These 
remains  are  easily  separated  from  the  layers  in  which 
they  are  enclosed.  Then*  exteriors  are  commonly  glos- 
sy, often  very  smooth,  and  ordinarily  of  a  dark  color, 
being  transformed  into  stone,  and  constituting  integral 
parts  of  the  rocks  which  envelope  them.  From  a  care- 
ful examination  of  certain  of  these  remains,  and  their 
positions,  we  are  led  to  believe  that  their  prototypes 
lived  and  died  on  the  spot,  and  that  the  rocks  in  which 
they  are  entombed  are  of  posterior  f    mation." 

Accommodations  for  visitants  ar<.  furnished  at  Sher- 
man's, the  only  house  kept  at  the  falls  for  that  pur- 
pose. Ladies  who  resort  thither,  should  be  furnish- 
ed with  calf  skin  shoes  or  bootees.  They  not  only 
owe  it  to  their  health  to  be  thus  provided,  but  the  best 
pair  of  cloth  shoes  will  be  ruined  by  a  single  excursion 
over  these  rocks. 


.ir4«k«K '*  !i  w  iiJU.1»t.v*/rf  .w/- 


e;^   -i^teL«%»-  A<>^»\»#Ww««iiWm'taifca>ii6M^*ai^rt.Mii«M,VWUi^ 


STAGE  ROUTE — ONEIDA  CASTLB. 


211 


You  see  what 
impressed  with 

eighty  Being 
m  the  deep  and 

of  the  ravine, 
veloped  in  the 
emains  lie  flat 
rs  and  compo- 
om  their  orig- 
here  is  defect, 
inimal  to  the 
mces,  all  the 
nJy  the  order, 
ized.     These 
ers  in  which 
iimonly  glos. 

a  dark  color, 
iting  integral 
^iom  a  care- 
ts, and  their 
■  prototypes 
ks  in  which 


j» 


n. 

ed  at  Sher- 
i'  that  pur- 
f^e  furnish- 
y  not  only 
Jt  the  best 
excursion 


Returning  to  Utica,  the  traveller,  in  pursuing  a  jour- 
ney to  the  west  by  stage,  first  reaches  the  pleasant 
village  of 

New-Hartford,  4  miles  from  Utica,  containing 
about  150  dwellings  and  stores,  and  three  churches,  be- 
sides a  number  of  mills  and  manufactories,  located  on 
the  Sadaquada  creek.  The  land  between  Utica  and 
New-Hartford  is  level  and  of  an  excellent  quality,  and 
resembles,  with  its  neat  and  regular  enclosures,  an  ex- 
tensive and  highly  cultivated  garden.  There  are  in  the 
vicinity  many  country  residences,  constructed  and  im- 
proved with  much  taste  and  elegance. 

One  mile  from  New-Hartford,  at  Clute's  tavern,  a 
tolerably  good  view  of  Hamilton  College,  3  or  4  miles 
distant  at  the  S.  W.  is  obtained  ;  but  on  ascending  a 
more  elevated  position  one  mile  farther,  the  prospect 
of  the  college  and  several  adjoining  buildings,  is  very 
distinct  and  beautiful. 

Manchester  is  5  miles  from  New-Hartford;  and 
the  country  between  the  tv/o  villages  exhibits  some  of 
the  most  highly  cultivated  and  delightful  farms  in  the 
state. 

Vernon,  8  miles  from  Manchester,  is  a  flourishing 
town  of  some  magnitude.  It  contains  two  churches,  a 
number  of  mills  and  a  glass  factory. 

Oneida  Castle,  5  miles  from  "Vernon,  is  situated 
on  the  Oneida  creek,  within  the  Oneida  Reservation. 
Here  is  a  considerable  settlement,  possessed  by  the 
Oneida  and  Tuscarora  Indians;  a  part  of  whom  re- 
cently removed  to  the  country  west  of  the  Michigan 
lake.     They  still  retain  the  customs  and  dress  pecuHar 


I 


i, 


i\ 


I. 


212 


STAGE    ROUTE— CIIITTENINGO. 


to  their  tribes.  In  the  summer  they  are  employed  prin- 
cipally in  cultivation ;  in  the  lull  it  is  their  practice  to 
repair  to  the  hunting  grounds  in  the  northern  part  of 
the  state,  from  whence  they  return  with  their  booty  in 
the  latter  part  of  the  winter.  This  tribe  entered  the 
service  of  the  state,  as  volunteers,  during  the  late  war. 
The  lands  in  this  reservation  are  but  indifferently 
cultivated,  and  assume  a  miserable  aspect  in  compari- 
son with  the  rich  and  highly  improved  farms  on  either 
side.  In  passing  over  an  elevated  tract,  however,  this 
disparagement  is  in  a  measure  lost  in  the  extensive 
prospect  which  is  afforded  at  the  north.  A  chain  of 
lofty  mountains  is  seen  skirting  the  horison  as  far  as 
the  eye  can  extend ;  between  which  and  the  tract  in 
question,  are  seen  immense  and  apparently  impenetra- 
ble forests.  The  prospect  is  sublime  ;  and  will  amply 
repay  the  traveller  in  stopping  a  short  time  to  enjoy  this 
rich  and  extensive  scenery. 

Lenox,  a  small  village,  is  3  miles  from  Oneida  Castle. 
One  mile  farther,  the  flourishing  and  newly  erected  vil- 
lage of  Canastota  is  seen  about  half  a  mile  north  of 
the  turnpike  on  an  extensive  plain  below,  wuth  the  Erie 
canal  passing  through  it. 

GluALiTT  Hill,  a  neat  little  village  on  a  pleasant  em- 
inence, is  3  miles  from  Lenox ;  and  5  miles  farther  is 
the  village  of 

Chitteningo,  situated  on  a  creek  of  that  name,  and 
from  which  a  feeder,  1^  mile  long,  is  constructed  to  tho 
canal.  The  village  is  bounded  by  very  lofty  liills,  and 
cannot  be  considered  a  happy  location,  except  for  man- 
ufacturing purposes.     Gypsum  is  here  found  in  great 


?, 


o. 


STAGE    ROITE — MANLITTS. 


213 


employed  prin« 
leir  practice  to 
jrthern  part  of 
their  booty  in 
be  entered  the 
g  the  late  war. 
it  indifferently 
ct  in  compari- 
irms  on  either 
however,  this 
the  extensive 
.     A  chain  of 
ison  as  far  as 
i  the  tract  in 
tly  impenetra- 
tid  will  amply 
e  to  enjoy  this 

)ncida  Castle. 
ly  erected  vil- 
mile  north  of 
with  the  Erie 

■  pleasant  em- 
iles  farther  is 


lat  name,  and 
tructed  to  tlio 
jfty  liills,  and 
cept  for  man- 
>und  in  great 


q\iantitici3  ;  also  Finmerous  petrifactions,  specimens  of 
which  are  in  most  of  the  mineralogical  cabinets  in  the 
Union.  Those  petrifactions  are  near  the  village  at  the 
foot  of  a  hill,  and  consist  of  the  trunk  of  a  tree  and 
scattered  frapnients,  the  woody  structure  of  which,  in 
most  cases,  is  romarkobly  perfect,  and  bearing  a  strong 
resemblance  to  the  original.  Various  springs  of  wa- 
ter issue  from  tlie  sides  of  the  hill,  which  exhibits  nu- 
merous incrustations  (calcareous  tufa)  along  its  slope 
and  in  the  vale  below.  To  the  properties  of  these  wa- 
ters may  be  attributed  the  formation  of  these  incrusta- 
tions and  petrifactions. 

At  Ciutteningo,the  road  diverges,  forming  two  prom- 
inent routes  to  Auburn  ;  one  passing  through  the  vil- 
lages of  IManlius,  Onondaga  Hollow,  Onondaga 
Hill,  Marcellus  and  Skaneateles,  and  the  other 
passing  through  the  village  of  Syracuse,  noticed  in  the 
canal  route.  The  first  mentioned  route,  though  over 
a  loss  even  country,  is  the  one  generally  preferred  by 
travellers,  as  affording  a  more  rich  and  diversified  scene- 
ry of  highly  cultivated  farms  and  flourishing  villages. 
Four  miles  from  Chitteningo,  on  the  road  to  Manlius,  is 
an  eminence  from  which  a  beautiful  prospect  is  obtain- 
ed of  a  part  of  Oneida  Lake  and  a  wide  extent  of  hilly 
country  beyond,  Onondnga  Lake,  and  the  village  of 
Onondaga  Efill,  15  miles  distant.  Four  miles  farther  is 
the  flourishing  villaue  of 

Manlitts,  situated  on  the  enst  side  of  Limestone 
creek,  containing  about  120  houses,  4  churches,  2  cot- 
ton factories,  mills,  &c.  There  are  in  the  vicinity  two 
considerable  falls,  the  principal  of  which  is  100  feet  in 
height. 


%^ 


214 


ITA.GE    ROUTE — MARCELLUS. 


Jamesyille  is  6  miles  from  Manlius.  Green  Pond, 
in  this  vicinity,  is  worthy  of  notice.  The  water  is  200 
feet  deep,  and  of  a  deep  green  color,  emitting  a  strong 
smell  of  sulphur.  The  surface  of  the  pond  is  between 
100  and  200  feet  below  the  level  of  its  shores,  which 
are  precipitous  and  rocky.  Four  miles  farther  is  the 
village  of 

Onondaga  Hollow,  extending  I  mile  across  a  deep 
but  beautiful  valley,  through  which  the  Onondaga  creek 
passes.  The  village  contains  an  academy,  church,  &c. ; 
but  its  business  has  declined  since  the  opening  of  the 
canal,  and  the  springing  up  of  the  village  of  Syracuse, 
which  is  4  miles  -listant.  Three  miles  south  of  Onon- 
daga Hollow  is  a  considerable  settlement  of  Onondaga 
Indians,  where  once  was  held  the  grand  councils  of  the 
Six  Nations. 

Onondaga  Hill,  2  miles  farther,  is  pleasantly  situa- 
ted on  very  high  ground,  with  a  commanding  view  of 
the  country  to  the  north  and  east  for  a  considerable  dis- 
tance, embracing  within  the  prospect  the  Onondaga 
Lake  and  the  villages  of  Syracuse,  Salina  and  Liver- 
pool. 

Marcellus,  8  miles  from  Onondaga  Hill,  is  a  neat 
village  of  70  or  80  houses,  situated  in  the  valley  of  the 
Otisco  creek.  Two  miles  north  are  falls  of  some  GO  or 
70  feet  affording  facilities  for  a  variety  of  manufactories ; 
near  which,  water  lime  or  cement  is  found  in  inexhausti- 
ble quantities.  There  is  also  lying  on  the  bank  of  the 
creek  at  this  place  a  petrified  tree  of  large  dimensions, 
partly  covered  with  limestone. 


4 


STAGE  aOUTE — ACBUUM. 


215 


Green  Pond, 

water  is  200 

-^> 

ing  a  strong 

i  is  between 

lores,  which 

irther  is  the 

f 

cross  a  deep 

ndaga  creek 

church,  &c. ; 

ening  of  the 

)f  Syracuse, 

til  of  Onon- 

»f  Onondaga 

uncils  of  the 

santly  situa- 
iing  view  of 
iderable  dis- 
3  Onondaga 
L  and  Liver- 


ill,  is  a  neat 
i^alley  of  the 
'  some  GO  or 
nufactories ; 
inexhausti- 
bank  of  the 
dimensions, 


Skanrateles,  6  miles  from  Marcellus,  is  situated  at 
the  foot  of  the  Skaneatelcs  Lake,  and  is  a  beautiful 
thriving  village,  containing  about  1200  inhabitants,  2 
churches  arid  a  flourishing  academy,  a  variety  of  man- 
ufactories, mills  and  many  elegant  private  dwellings. 
It  enjoys  a  commanding  view  of  the  lake  for  6  or  8 
miles  above  and  of  the  surrounding  country,  which  ri- 
ses in  a  gentle  aclivity  from  the  water  100  feet  or  more 
in  the  course  of  a  mile,  presenting  a  range  of  neat  white 
farm  houses  on  the  summit,  and  a  slope  of  hii^hly  cul- 
tivated country  towards  the  lake  on  each  side.  The 
lake,  which  is  16  miles  long  and  from  half  a  mile  to 
two  miles  in  width,  abounds  with  fine  trout  and  other 
fish.  The  water  is  deep  and  remarkably  pure,  with  a 
gravelly  bottom  and  bold  shores.  The  prospect  from 
the  lake  is  highly  interesting,  particularly  towards  its 
head,  where  the  country  rises  abruptly  several  hundred 
feet,  presenting  a  miniature  picture  of  mountain  scene- 
ry. Under  these  blufls  on  the  east  side  and  on  a  level 
with  the  water  arc  iound  large  quantities  of  petrifactions, 
the  cornu  ammonite,  imbeded  in  a  stratum  of  slate. 
Three  miles  north  of  the  village  the  Skaneatelcs  creek 
falls  over  a  bed  of  rocks  about  70  feet  in  a  short  dis- 
tance; but  in  low  water,  the  whole  is  lost  or  sinks 
among  the  rocks  and  only  a  part  of  it  again  appears  at 
a  distance  of  half  a  mile  below,  presenting  the  novel 
spectacle  of  a  river  much  larger  at  its  fountain  than  at 
its  mouth.  Seven  miles  from  Skaneatelcs  stands  the 
flourishing  village  of 

Auburn.  It  is  situated  on  the  Owasco  creek,  two 
miles  below  its  outlet  from  the  lake  of  the  same  name, 
24  miles  from  Onondaga,  and  170  from  Albany.     Thia 

t2 


■I\ 


'I 

W 


I 
I' 

1 


216 


•  TACE    ROUTE— -AUBCRM. 


'f 


■■I 


) 


village  owes  much  of  its  importance  to  the  numerouff 
mills  and  manufactories  for  which  its  location  is  ex- 
tremely eligible.  It  contains  about  450  houses  and 
4000  inhabitants.  Amongst  other  pubHc  buildings 
there  are  a  court  house  and  gaol,  and  a  prison  erected 
for  convicts  at  the  expense  of  the  state.  There  has 
also  been  established  a  theological  seminary,  which  is 
patronized  exclusively  by  the  Presbyterian  denomina- 
tion, and  is  at  present  the  only  one  of  the  kind  in  the 
state.  Many  circumstances  combine  to  render  this 
place  an  agreeable  residence  to  the  man  of  taste  or  busi- 
ness. The  village  is  handsomely  built,  and  increases 
annually  in  population  and  business.  It  is  situated  7 
miles  from  Weed's  Port,  on  the  canal,  to  which  place 
stages  run  daily,  for  the  accommodation  of  passengers 
wishing  to  take  packet  boats  for  the  west  or  east — fare 
50  cents. 

The  principal  public  houses  are  the  Western  Ex- 
change and  Bank  Coffee  House. 

The  State  Prison,  at  Auburn,  is  considered  one  of 
the  best  in  the  Union.  It  was  commenced  in  1816,  and 
is  constructed  upon  the  plan  of  a  hollow  square,  en- 
closed by  a  wall  2000  feet  in  extent,  being  500  feet  on 
each  side.  The  front  of  the  prison,  including  the  keep- 
er's dwelling,  is  about  300  feet,  and  the  two  wings  ex- 
tending west,  are  240  feet  each.  The  north  wing  con- 
tains the  solitary  ceils  arid  hospital,  and  the  south  wing 
is  divided  principally  into  two  large  rooms.  Between 
the  two  wings  is  a  grass  plot  with  gravel  walks ;  to 
the  west  of  which  is  the  interior  yard,  covered  with 
gravel,  containing  reservoirs  of  water,  and  surrounded 
with  workshops.    These  shops,  besides  the  paint  shop, 


\L 


>5 


•  TA(ifi  ROUTE — AUBURN. 


817 


le  numerous 
ation  is  ex- 
houses  and 
lib  buildings 
rison  erected 
There  has 
ary,  which  is 
n  denomina- 
3  kind  in  the 
render  this 
taste  or  busi- 
md  increases 
is  situated  7 
)  which  place 
)f  passengers 
or  east — fare 

Western  Ex- 

iidered  one  of 
I  in  1816,  and 
V  square,  en- 
g  500  feet  on 
ing  the  keep- 
vo  wings  ex- 
th  wing  con- 
e  south  wins 
s.    Between 
el  walks  ;  to 
overed  with 
!  surrounded 
B  paint  shop, 


form  a  continued  range  of  900  feet ;  and  are  well  light- 
ed by  windows  in  the  sides  and  from  the  roof.  They 
are  built  of  brick,  and  are  well  secured  against  fire. 
The  outer  walls,  against  which  the  shops  are  built,  are 
35  feet  high  on  the  inside,  and  the  other  walls  about 
20.  They  are  four  feet  thick,  and  the  walls  of  the  pris- 
on 3  feet.  The  expense  of  the  whole,  without  includ- 
ing the  labor  of  the  convicts  employed,  was  above  $300,- 
000.  The  prison  being  erected  on  the  bank  of  the 
Owasco,  water  power  is  appHed  in  many  cases,  to  great 
advantage,  in  propelling  machinery. 

The  most  interesting  period  for  witnessing  the  pris- 
oners is  early  in  the  morning,  from  the  time  they  are 
brought  forth  to  labor  till  after  breakfast.  The  spec- 
tator will  then  have  an  opportunity  of  seeing  some  of 
the  prominent  features  of  the  order,  regularity  and 
system  with  which  every  thing  is  conducted.  He  will 
admire  the  precision  with  which  the  rules  are  execu- 
ted, without  the  least  confusion,  noise,  or  even  com- 
mand. The  convicts  silently  marching  to  and  from 
their  rest,  meals  and  labor,  at  precise  times,  moving  in 
separate  corps,  in  single  file,  with  a  slow  lock  step, 
erect  posture,  keeping  exact  time,  with  their  faces  in- 
clined towards  their  keepers,  (that  they  may  detect  con- 
versation, of  which  none  is  ever  pennitted,)  all  give  to 
the  spectator  somewhat  similar  feelings  to  those  excited 
by  a  military  funeral ;  and  to  the  convicts,  impressions 
not  entirely  dissimilar  to  those  of  culprits  when  march- 
ing to  the  gallows.  The  same  silence,  solemnity  and 
order,  in  a  good  degree,  pervades  every  business  and 
department. 


\f 


I 


M*. 


213 


STAGE  aOUTS — SENttCA  fALLI. 


In  addition  to  divine  semce  in  the  chapel  of  the  pris- 
on every  Sabbath,  a  Sunday  school  has  been  establish' 
ed,  superinconded  by  the  students  of  the  theological 
eominary,  which  has  been  attended  with  very  beneficial 
effects. 

So  admirable  has  been  the  discipline  of  this  prison 
that  a  large  proportion  of  the  convicts  discharged  have 
become  honest,  industrious  men,  and  none  arc  known 
to  have  become  corrupted  or  made  worse. 

Cayuga,  8  miles  west  of  Auburn,  is  a  small  village  ; 
but  affords  a  beautiful  prospect  of  the  Cayuga  Lake, 
and  the  bridge  extending  across,  which  is  1  mile  and 
8  rods  long,  and  situate  within  2  miles  of  the  outlet. 
This  lake  is  33  miles  in  length,  and  is  generally  from 
1  to  2  miles  in  breadth.  Tlie  water  is  shallow,  but 
of  sufficient  depth  for  a  jrood  sized  steam-boat,  which 
plies  daily  between  the  bridge  and  Ithaca,  a  beautiful 
and  thriving  village,  at  tlic  head  of  the  lake,  36  miles 
distant. 

Seneca  Palls,  3  miles  west  of  Cayuga,  is  a  flourish- 
ing village,  located  on  the  banks  of  the  Seneca  river, 
which  here  falls  46  feet,  affording  important  manufac- 
turing facilities.  The  village  has  attained  a  very  rapid 
growth  within  tlie  last  3  or  4  years,  and  will  probajily 
soon  take  rank  among  the  most  important  towns  in  the 
western  part  of  the  state.  For,  in  addition  to  its  manu- 
facturing privileges,  a  canal  extends  to  the  Erie  canal  at 
Lakeport,  20  miles  distant,  vrhich,  connected  with  the 
river  at  the  village,  affords  an  uninterrupted  water  com- 
munication from  Geneva  to  the  western  lakes  and  the 
ocean.    Four  miles  farther  is  the  handsome  village  of 


8.  AGE  ROUTE — GENEVA. 


219 


)( the  prifl- 
cstablish- 

heological 
beneficial 

his  prison 
rgod  have 
irc  known 

ill  village  ; 
uga  Lake, 
1  mile  and 
the  outlet, 
orally  from 
lallow,  but 
►oat,  vv^hich 
a  beautiful 
e,  36  miles 

I  a  nourish- 
neca  river, 
:  manufac- 
.  very  rapid 

II  probably 
•wns  in  the 
)  its  manu- 
rie  canal  at 
;d  v/ith  the 
i\'ater  com- 
es and  the 
Ullage  of 


Waterloo,  a  half  shire  town  in  Seneca  county.  It 
contains  about  200  houses,  a  court  house,  jail,  and  9 
printing  ollices.  The  village  is  principally  situate  on 
the  northern  bank  of  tiie  Seneca  outlet  ;  which  here 
propels  several  mills.  The  commencement  of  this  vil- 
lage-was in  1816  ;  since  which  it  has  become  a  place  of 
very  considerable  importance  ;  though  it  is  probably 
destined  to  yield  in  magnitude  and  business  to  its  rival 
village  at  Seneca  Falls.     From  Waterloo  to 

Geneva,  7  miles  distant,  the  route  is  delightful,  em- 
bracing (a  part  of  the  way)  a  charming  ride  around  the 
north  end  of  the  Seneca  Lake,  which  is  here  about  2 
miles  wide.  The  village  is  one  of  the  most  elegant  in 
the  state ;  and,  with  its  beautiful  scenery,  cannot  fail 
of  calling  forth  the  admiration  of  every  visitant.  It  is 
situate  on  the  western  margin  of  the  lake,  the  bank  of 
which  being  lofty,  affords  an  enchanting  view  of  one  of 
the  purest  sheets  of  water  in  America.  There  are  al- 
ready in  this  place  about  450  buildings,  many  of  which 
are  very  handsome  ;  and  the  number  is  constantly  in- 
creasing. Among  the  public  buildings  are  a  college, 
an  academy,  4  churches  and  a  bank.  The  college  is 
located  on  an  eminence  south  of  the  village,  on  the 
margin  of  the  lake  ;  and  though  in  its  infancy,  is 
handsomely  patronized.  It  is  in  Ihe  viciaity  of  several 
country  seats,  enjoying  an  unusual  richness  of  pros- 
pect, with  an  almost  constant  breeze  from  the  lake ; 
which  is  about  35  miles  long,  and  from  3  to  4  miles 
wide.  It  abounds  with  salmon  trout  and  other  fish, 
and  is  never  closed  with  ice.  A  steam-boat  runs  daily 
from  Geneva  to  JefTersonville,  at  the  head  of  the  lake. 


220 


STAGE  ROUTE — GENEVA. 


leaving  the  former  place  at  7  A.  M.,  and  returnini^  at 
evcnin^j.*     The  Genesee  turnpike  leads  through  Gen- 


l  f 


»y 


C4 


*  A  passage  on  the  lake  is  pornliarly  deliirhtrul  and 
intcrcstinjT.  Leaviner  Geneva  with  ii.s  neat  stores,  and 
elegant  dwellinfrsj  its  luxuriant  lianiring  tfardens,  and 
the  filittering  s[)ires  of  its  churches  and  college,  the  eye 
takes  in  a  southern  wat^r  viow  not  surpassed  in  any 
part  of  this  world  of  inland  seas.  The  first  village  of 
any  note  on  the  eastern  shore  is  Ovid,  18  miles  from 
Geneva.  The  lofty  eminence  on  which  it  stands,  and 
the  rich  and  highly  cultivated  farms  in  its  vicinity,  ren- 
der it  a  most  conspicuous  and  interesting  ohject.  Di- 
rectly opposite  to  Ovid  is  Dresden,  one  of  the  most 
thriving  villages  in  Yates  county.  It  is  situated  on  the 
outlet  of  Crooked  Lake,  and  extends  nearly  a  mile  back 
of  the  shore.  Immediately  south  of  Dresden,  is  the 
farm  of  the  late  celebrated  Jemima  Wilkinson,  an  en- 
thusiast, who  pretended  that  she  was  the  Saviour  of 
mankind.  Until  her  death,  which  took  place  some 
years  since,  she  had  several  followers  ;  and  this  farm, 
which  is  very  beautiful,  has  passed  by  will  into  the 
hands  of  one  of  them.  Four  miles  south  of  Dresden  is 
Long  Point,  remarkable  for  a  tree  at  its  extremity, 
which,  by  a  little  aid  from  the  imagination  puts  on  the 
semblance  of  an  elephant.  Six  miles  south  of  Long 
Point  is  Rapelyea's  ferry,  near  whicli  is  still  standing 
the  frame  which  Jemima  constructed  to  try  the  failh 
of  her  followjcrs.  HaAnng  appronch<  d  v.ithin  a  few 
hundred  yards  of  the  lake  shore,  she  aliphted  from  an 
elegant  carriage,  and  the  rond  being  strewed  by  her 
followers  with  white  handkerchiefs,  she  walked  to  the 
platform,  and  having  announced  her  intention  of  walk- 
ing across  the  lake  on  the  water,  she  stepped  ankle  deep 
into  tlie  clear  element,  w-hen  suddenly  pausing,  she  ad- 
dressed the  multitude,  inquiring  whether  or  not  they 
had  faith  that  she  could  pass  over,  for  if  otherwise,  she 
could  not ;  and  on  receiving  an  affirmative  answer,  re- 


:i%UJ.^M'a!fi-y.-ma:.: 


STAGE  ROUTE CAXANDAIGUA. 


221 


returning  ot 
10 ugh  Gen- 


i<Thtfiil  and 
\.  stores,  and 
lardens,  and 
c<xo,  the  eye 
sfcd  in  any 
st  villaffe  of 
B  miles  from 
:  stands,  and 
vicinity,  ren- 
objcct.     Di- 
of  the  most 
natcd  on  the 
^'a  mile  back 
^sdcn,  is  the 
inson,  an  cn- 
e  Saviour  of 
:  place  some 
nd  this  farm, 
will  into  the 
of  Dresden  is 
ts  extremity, 
puts  on  the 
inth  of  Lon» 
still  standing 
try  the  faith 
kvithin  a  few 
hted  from  an 
ewed  by  her 
^'alked  to  the 
tion  of  walk- 
ed ankle  deep 
sinjor,  she  ad- 
or  not  they 
therwise,  she 
B  answer,  re- 


eva,  and  the  Erie  canal  passes  about  12  miles  to  the 
north  of  it ;  with  which  thi^ro  is  a  water  communica- 
tion, by  means  of  the  outlet  of  the  Seneca  lake  and  a 
lateral  canal,  noticed  at  p.  218. 

Canandaigua  is  15  miles  from  Geneva.  This  vil- 
lage is  situated  near  the  outlet  of  the  lake  from  which 
it  takes  its  name,  on  a  gentle  ascent  commanding  a 
fine  view  of  the  lake  at  the  distance  of  half  a  mile. 
The  principal  street  extends  2  miles  in  length,  and  is 
handsomely  decorated  with  trees,  through  which  ap- 
pear the  delicately  painted  dwellings,  ornamented  with 
Venetian  blinds.  In  an  open  square,  in  the  centre  of 
the  village,  is  the  court  house  and  clerk's  office  of  the 
county.  The  Episcopal  church,  situate  on  the  main 
street,  is  one  of  the  most  elegantly  constructed  build- 


turned  to  her  carriasre,  declaring  that  as  they  believed 
in  her  power,  it  was  unnecessary  to  display  it.  Six 
miles  and  a  half  south  of  llapelyea's  ferry,  is  Starkie's 
Point,  whore  the  shore  is  so  bold  that  the  steam-boat 
passes  witliin  10  feet  of  the  extremity  of  the  I'oint. 
Four  miles  further  on  the  west  shore  is  the  Bio:  Stream 
Point,  at  which  there  is  a  mill  seat  with  a  fall  of  136 
feet.  The  land  puts  on  a  wilder  aspect  as  the  tourist 
approaches  the  head  of  the  lake,  and  the  eminences  are 
more  beetling  and  precipito\is.  The  east-rn  shore  ah^o 
partakes  more  of  the  mountainous  character,  though 
cultivated  far  up  the  summit  lands,  and  is  here  and 
there  marked  by  ravines,  through  one  of  which  "  Hec- 
tor Falls"  tumble  from  a  height  of  one  hundred  and 
fifty  feet,  and  carry  several  valuable  mills.  These  falls 
are  distant  three  miles  from  the  village  of  Jeffersonville, 
at  the  head  of  the  lake,  which  has  recently  sprung  into 
existence,  and  which  will  soon  become  an  important  in- 
land town. 


h 


I 


222 


STAGE  ROUTE — CANANDAIGUA. 


ings  in  the  state.  In  the  vicintty  are  a  number  of  de- 
lightful villas,  surrounded  with  smiling  gardens  and 
orchards  of  various  kinds  of  fruit,  which,  with  the  view 
of  the  lake  stretching  far  to  the  south,  beautifully  set 
off  the  scene  of  enchantment.  In  richness  and  variety 
of  natural  scenery,  and  tlic  taste  and  elegance  of  its 
edifices,  few  villages  can  compare  with  Canandaigua. 
In  point  of  trade  and  wcaltii,  too,  it  is  not  exceeded  by 
many  villages  in  tlie  state.  A  steam  mill  is  here  in  op- 
eration, which  annually  furnishes  a  very  large  supply 
of  flour.  On  the  lake,  which  is  14  miles  long,  and 
from  one  to  two  in  breadth,  a  steam-boat  performs  a 
daily  trip,  which  is  rendered  unusally  interesting  from 
the  varied  scenery  which  is  presented.  The  village  is 
situated  208  miles  from  Albany  ;  from  Utica,  114;  from 
Buffalo,  89  ;  from  Niagara  Falls,  109.  Principal  public 
houses.  Blossom's  Hotel  (one  of  the  best  in  the  western 
district)  and  Pitt's  Eagle  Tavern. 

Canandaigua  was  one  of  the  first  towns  settled  in 
what  was  formerly  called  the  "  Genesee  country."  The 
entire  tract,  containing  six  millions  of  acres,  was  pur- 
chased of  Massachusetts  by  Oliver  Phelps  and  Nathan- 
iel Gorham,  in  1787,  for  $1,000,000  ;  and  Phelps,  then 
living  at  Gransville,  in  that  state,  made  preparations  the 
spring  following  with  men  and  means  to  explore  the 
country  thus  acquired.  With  great  resolution  and  in- 
trepidity, he  took  leave  of  his  family  and  his  neighbors, 
together  with  the  minister  of  the  parish,  who  assem- 
bled on  the  occasion,  and  started  on  his  expedition, 
leaving  them  all  in  tears j  bidding  him  a  final  adieu, 
scarcely  hoping  for  his  return  from  a  wilderness,  in  the 
Indian  country,  hardly  yet  pacified. 


i 


m^ 


.iMMai« 


STAGE  ROUTE — CANANDAIGUA. 


223 


ibcr  of  de- 
rdens  and 
|th  the  view 
utifully  set 
nd  variety 
ance  of  its 
nandaigua. 
xcecdcd  by 
here  in  op« 
rge  supply 
lon^,  and 
performs  a 
csting  from 
le  village  ia 
,114;  from 
cipal  public 
he  western 

s  settled  in 
ntry."   The 
if  was  pur- 
kI  Nathan - 
helps,  then 
nations  the 
explore  the 
on  and  in- 
neighbors, 
ho  assem- 
Bxnedition, 
nal  adieu, 
ess,  in  the 


He  persevered  and  penetrated  the  forest  from  the 
German  Flats  to  Canandaigua,  a  distance  of  1'28  miles, 
by  the  present  improved  road — sent  out  runners,  and 
collected  the  Sachems,  C'uels,  and  Warriors  of  the  Six 
Nations,  and  in  July,  1788,  with  the  aid  of  the  Rev. 
Samuel  Kirtland,  as  State  Commissioner  and  Indian 
Missionary,  concluded  a  treaty  of  purchase  of  a  tract 
containing  2i  millions  of  acres.  The  Indians  were  dis- 
posed to  confine  Mr.  Pholps  to  the  Genesee  river  as  his 
western  boundary.  He  however  proposed  the  erection 
of  mills  at  the  falls  of  the  nver,  (now  Rochester)  and 
obtained  of  them  in  the  purchase  what  was  termed  a 
mill  yardy  embracing  a  tract  of  1 2  by  24  miles,  extending 
12  miles  west  of  Rochester,  and  north  to  Lake  Ontario. 

The  kindness  of  Mr.  Phelps,  vnd  the  good  faith  id- 
ways  observed  !)y  him  towards  the  Indians,  induced 
them  to  adopt  him  and  his  son  as  honorary  members  of 
their  national  councils.  The  leading  chiefs  concerned 
in  these  negotiations  were  Farmer'' s  Brother  and  Red 
Jacket,  the  latter  of  whom  died  near  Buffalo  in  ^829. 

In  1789,  the  lands  thus  purchased  having  bi^en  divi- 
ded mtorangcs,  Phelps  opened  a  land  ofllce  at  Canandai- 
gua, the  first  established  in  America,  where  he  contin- 
ued to  make  sales  until  the  year  following,  when  the 
balance  of  the  tract  to  which  the  Indian  title  had  been 
extinguished,  being  1,264,000  acres,  was  sold  to  Robert 
Morris,  for  eipht  pence  lawful  money  per  acre,  who  sold 
the  same  to  Sir  William  Pultency,  of  England. 

Gorham  and  Phelps  not  being  able  to  p  ly  the  whole 
purchase  money,  compromised  and  surrendered  to  Mas- 
sachusetts that  part  of  the  land  to  which  ihe  Indian  title 

u 


r 
I* 


f 


'< 


II 


m 


'(9 


'^ 


II 


u 

HI 


it 


li 


if 


224 


BURNING  SPRINGS. 


remained  unextinguished,  being  about  two  thirds  of  the 
western  part  of  it ;  and  in  1796,  Morris  purchased  of 
Massachusetts  the  tract  thus  surrendered,  extinguish- 
ed the  Indian  title,  sold  out  several  tracts  to  different 
persons,  and  mortgaged  the  residue  to  William  Wil- 
link  and  others,  of  Amsterdam,  called  the  Holland 
Company — under  the  foreclosure  of  which  mortgages 
the  company  acquired  the  full  title  to  their  large  tract, 
surveyed  it  into  ranges  and  townships,  after  the  man- 
ner of  Oliver  Phelj  ?,  and  in  1801  opened  a  land  office 
at  Batavia,  under  the  agency  of  Joseph  Ellicott,  for  the 
sale  thereof. 

Oliver  Phelps,  Esq.  a  grandson  of  the  original  pro- 
prietor, is  the  owner  and  resides  on  the  premises  of  his 
ancestor  in  Canandai<Tua. 

Burning  Sprincis.  From  8  to  10  miles,  in  a  south- 
westerly direction  from  Canandaigua,  are  found  several 
springs,  cliarged  with  inflamable  gas.  The  folloMing 
description  of  them  is  taken  from  a  Canandaigua  jour- 
nal : 

"  These  springs  are  found  in  Bristol,  Middlesex,  and 
Canandaigua.  The  former  are  situated  in  a  ravine  on 
the  west  tide  of  Bristol  Hollow,  about  half  a  mile  from 
the  North  Presbyterian  inceting  house.  The  ravine  is 
formed  in  clay  slate,  and  a  small  brook  runs  through 
it.  The  gas  rises  through  fissures  of  the  slate,  from 
both  the  margin  and  the  bed  of  the  brook.  Where  it 
rises  through  the  water,  it  is  formed  into  bubbles,  and 
flashes  only  when  the  flame  is  applied  ;  but  where  it 
rises  directly  from  the  rock,  it  burns  with  a  steady  and 
beautiful  flame,  which  continues  until  extinguished  by 
storms,  or  by  design. 


W 


i  I    I 


BURNING   SPRINGii. 


225 


[thirds  of  the 
>urchased  of 
extinguish- 
to  different 
'illiam  Wil- 
the  Holland 
mortgages 
[r  large  tract, 
ter  the  man- 
a  land  office 
icott,  for  the 

)riginal   pro- 
mises of  his 

!,  in  a  south- 
bund  several 
le  following 
daigua  jour- 

ddlesex,  and 
I  a  ravine  on 
'a  mile  from 
^he  ravine  is 
uns  through 
3  slate,  from 
.     Where  it 
lubbles,  and 
)ut  where  it 
steady  and 
guished  by 


The  springs  in  Middlesex  are  situated  from  one  to 
two  miles  south-westerly  from  the  village  of  Rushville, 
along  a  tract  nearly  a  mile  in  length,  partly  at  the  bot- 
tom of  the  valley  called  Federal  Hollow,  and  partly  at 
an  elevation  of  40  or  50  feet  on  the  south  side  of  it. 

The  latter  have  been  discovered  within  a  few  years, 
in  a  field  which  had  been  long  cleared,  and  are  very  nu- 
merous. Their  places  are  known  by  little  hillocks  of  a 
few  feet  in  diameter,  and  a  few  inches  high,  formed  of 
a  dark  bituminous  mould,  which  seems  principally  to 
have  been  deposited  by  the  gas,  and  through  which  it 
finds  its  way  to  the  surface,  in  one  or  more  currents. 
These  currents  of  gas  may  be  set  on  fire,  and  will  burn 
with  a  steady  flame.  In  winter  they  form  openings 
through  the  snow,  and  being  set  on  fire,  exhibit  the  nov- 
el and  interesting  phenomenon  of  a  steady  and  lively 
flame  in  contract  with  nothing  but  snow.  In  verv  cold 
weather,  it  is  said,  tubes  of  ice  are  formed  round  these 
currents  of  gas,  (probably  from  the  freezing  of  the  wa- 
ter contained  in  it,)  which  sometimes  rise  to  the  height 
of  two  or  three  feet,  the  gas  issuing  from  their  tops  ; 
the  whole  when  lighted  in  a  still  evening  presenting  an 
appearance  even  more  beautiful  than  the  former. 

Experiments  made  with  the  gas  seem  to  prove,  that 
it  consists  principally  of  a  mixture  of  the  light  and  heavy 
carburcttcd  hydrogen  ;j-ascs,  the  former  having  greatly 
the  preponderance  ;  and  that  it  contains  a  small  pro- 
portion of  carbonic  acid  gas.  It  seems  also  to  hold  a 
little  oily  or  bituminous  matter  in  solution.  It  burns 
with  a  lambent,  yellowish  flame,  scarcely  inclining  to 
red,  with  small  scintillations  of  a  bright  red  at  its  base. 
It  ha»  the  odour  of  pit  coal.     It  produces  no  smoke, 


'''<\ 


r-.i'i  1 


.l;i 


226 


STAGE  ROUTE — EAST  BLOOMFIELD. 


but  deposits,  while  burning,  a  small  quantity  of  bitu- 
minous lampblack.  It  is  remarkable  that  the  hillocks, 
through  which  the  gas  rises,  are  totally  destitute  of 
vegetation.  Whether  the  gas  is  directly  deleterious  to 
vegetable  life,  or  indirectly,  by  interrupting  the  contact 
of  the  air  of  the  atmosphere,  it  is  certain  that  no  plant 
can  sustain  life  within  the  circle  of  its  influence. 

It  is  well  known  that  this  gas  is  found  abundantly  in 
coal  mines  ;  and  baing  accidentally  set  on  fire,  (mixed 
as  it  is  in  those  mines  with  the  air  of  the  atmosphere,) 
has  many  times  caused  terrible  and  destructive  explo- 
sions. The  writer  cannot  learn  that  it  has  ever  been 
known  to  be  generated  in  the  earth,  except  in  the  pres- 
ence of  coal ;  and  hence  the  inference  is  strong  that  it 
proceeds  from  coal." 

From  Canandaigua  stages  may  be  taken  for  Roches- 
ter, (see  "Canal  Route,")  distant  27  miles  in  a  north- 
westerly direction,  and  the  route  continued  from  thence 
to  the  Falls  by  stage  or  canal ;  but  if  a  visit  to  Montre- 
al, by  the  way  of  Lake  Ontario,  is  not  contemplated,  it 
is  generally  deemed  a  better  course  to  proceed  directly 
to  Buffalo  and  the  Falls,  and  return  by  the  way  of  Ro- 
chester. In  pursuing  the  usual  route  from  Canandai- 
gua to  Bufflilo, 

East  Bloomfield  is  reached  in  travelling  9  miles, 
and  West  Bloomfield  in  going  5  miles  farther.  They 
are  considered  among  the  richest  agricultural  town- 
ships in  the  state  ;  presenting  a  succession  of  beautiful 
and  highly  cultivated  farms.  The  fruit  raised  on  these 
lands,  particularly  apples  and  peaches^  is  not  excelled 
in  any  section  of  the  country. 


STAGE  nOUTC — CALEDONIA. 


227 


tity  of  bitu- 
the  hillocks, 
destitute  of 
eleterious  to 
p  the  contact 
hat  no  plant 
ence. 

bundantly  in 
fife,  (mixed 
tmosphere,) 
uctive  explo- 
as  ever  been 
t  in  the  pres- 
strong  that  it 

for  Roches- 
s  in  a  north- 

from  thence 
t  to  JNIontre- 
templated,  it 
:eed  directly 
way  of  Ro- 
^  Canandai- 

ng  9  miles, 
ther.  They 
tural  to\vn- 
3f  beautiful 
2d  on  these 
ot  excelled 


I 


ft 


Lima  is  4  miles  from  West  Bloomfield,  and  is  a  con- 
tinuation of  the  same  rich  and  fertile  soil,  divided  into 
highly  improved  and  productive  farms. 

East  Avon  is  5,  and  Avon  Post  Office  7  miles 
from  Lima.  The  C4cnesce  river  passes  through  the 
town  of  Avon,  and  is  navii^able  for  boats  to  the  Erie 
canal  at  Rochester,  20  miles  distant,  with  which  it  is 
connected  by  a  feeder.  The  alluvial  flats  are  very  ex- 
tensive  and  fortilc  ;  and  the  uplands  arc  well  watered 
by  :>mall  streams  and  sprin.qfs.  A  remarkable  bulbous 
root  (Trows  on  the  Genesee  flats  in  this  town.  It  is 
from  3  to  4  feet  in  length,  from  6  to  8  inches  in  diame- 
ter, and  assumes  the  external  appearance  of  a  log  in 
the  earth.  A  small  creeping  vine,  like  that  of  the  straw- 
b<^rry,  proceeds  from  the  root  ;  and  ith  natural  vegeta- 
ble productions  are  almost  infinitely  various. 

The  Avon  Spring  is  becoming  a  place  of  considera- 
ble resort  for  invalids.  Its  waters,  which  are  strongly 
impregnated  with  sulphur  and  alum,  are  found  benefi- 
cial ill  various  diseases.  The  tourist  will  generally  find 
hunsi^lf  amply  compensated  by  spending  a  day  at  this 
place. 

CAL»i;D0NiA,  8  miles  from  Avon  Post  Oflice,  is  more 
particularly  celebrated  as  the  location  of  a  large  Springy 
than  for  any  thing  else.  The  stnge  usually  stops  at 
the  village  long  enough  to  enable  passengers  to  visit 
this  natural  cuiiosity,  which  is  situate  a  few  reds  north 
of  tho  p/mcipal  street.  VritV:in  a  small  area,  sufficient 
water  rises  to  propel  a  mill,  (of  which  there  are  ^' veral 
on  the  stream  br-low,)  at  all  seasons  of  the  year.  The 
water  is  puve  and  appears  to  rise  from  a  rocky  bottom. 

u2 


223 


STAGE  ROUTE BATAVIA. 


!  ■; 


'i') 


i 


'■4 


!-il 


A  stage  runs  daily  from  this  place  to  R-ochester,  which 
is  20  miles  distant.  A  part  of  the  route  lies  on  the  bank 
of  th*»  Genesee  river,  and,  most  of  the  way,  through  an 
uncultivated  country.  Settlements  and  improvements, 
however,  are  rapidly  increasing  ;  and  the  wilderness 
will  are  long  give  place  to  the  arts  of  husbandry 

Pursuing  the  direct  route  from  Caledonia  to  ijuffalo, 
the  next  place  of  importance  is  the  pleasant  and  thri- 
ving village  of 

Leroy,  which  is  6  miles  west  of  Caledonia,  and  17 
miles  south  of  the  Erie  Canal.  Allen's  creek,  which 
passes  through  the  village,  affords  important  mill  privi- 
leges, and  contributes  much  to  the  value  and  business 
of  tiie  place.  The  number  of  buildings  already  erect- 
ed is  between  2  and  300,  principally  located  on  one 
street ;  among  which  are  several  very  handsome  pri- 
vate dwellings.  Numerous  petrifications  have  been 
found  in  the  bed  of  the  creek,  about  200  yards  north  of 
the  village  bridge  ;  among  which  are  petrified  turtles, 
weighing  from  10  to  300  pounds.  They  are  compos- 
ed principally  of  dark  coloured  bituminous  limestone, 
which  is  easily  split,  and  often  discovers  crystaline 
veins,  together  with  yellow  clay  or  ochre.  The  mine- 
ralogist will  find  much  here  to  gratify  his  taste  and  re- 
ward his  researches.  The  delightful  appearance  of  the 
village,  also,  with  its  charming  location  on  an  emi- 
nence, will  often  induce  the  traveller  to  make  it  a  tem- 
porary resting  place  from  the  fatigues  of  a  journey. 

Batavia  is  10  miles  from  Le  Roy.  It  is  the  capital 
of  Genesee  county  ;  and  assumes  more  the  appearance 
of  one  of  the  early  settled  villages  in  New-England, 
than  the  more  flourishing  villages  of  the  west.    It  is 


k 


mt 


STAGR  ROUTE BA.TAVIA. 


t29 


jiester,  which 

|s  on  the  bank 

^  through  an 

iprovements, 

|e  wilderness 

mdrj' 

h  to  I^uffalo, 
pant  and  thri- 

onia,  and  17 
creek,  which 
nt  mill  privi- 
and  business 
1  ready  erect- 
ated  on  one 
ndsome  pri- 
'  have  been 
ards  north  of 
■ified  turtles, 
are  compos- 
s  hmestone, 
s  crystaline 
The  mine- 
aste  and  re- 
rance  of  the 
on  an  emi- 
ke  it  a  tem- 
)urney, 

the  capital 
appearance 
v-England, 
vest.     It  is 


situated  on  the  north  side  of  the  Tonewanta  creek,  on 
an  extensive  plain,  and  has  several  handsome  and  even 
elegant  private  mansions.  Besides  the  court  house 
and  jail,  it  contains  a  bank,  the  Holland  Company  land 
office,  and  a  few  other  public  buildings. 

This  village  has  become  somewhat  celebrated  as  the 
theatre  of  events  connected  with  the  masonic  fraterni- 
ty. It  was  the  residence  of  the  noted  William  Morgan, 
previous  to  his  abduction  ;  and  from  one  of  its  print- 
ing offices  was  first  issued  what  has  been  denominated 
the  secrets  of  masonry.  The  excitement  produced  for 
a  time  in  the  village,  and  in  others  sections  of  the  coun- 
try, was  of  a  nature  the  most  rancorous  and  intolerant, 
and  unworthy  the  character  of  an  enlightened  people. 
Illiberal  feelings,  however,  have,  in  a  measure,  given 
place  to  reason  ;  and  there  is  a  prevailing  disposition  to 
establish  peace  and  good  order. 

After  leaving  Batavia  for  Buffalo,  the  country  soon 
assumes  a  less  populous  appearance  ;  and  the  travel- 
ling is  rendered  unpleasant  from  the  extensive  cause- 
ways which  intervene,  consisting  of  logs  placed  trans- 
versely in  the  road.  This  has  been  done  to  avoid  the 
deep  mud  on  the  low  grounds,  which  are  subject  to 
frequent  inundations  in  the  spring  and  fall.  The  state 
of  these  roads  has  induced  many  to  prefer  the  ridge  road 
or  alluvial  way  from  Rochester  to'  Lewiston,  (which  is 
noticed  in  a  subsequent  part  of  this  volume.)  But,  in 
visiting  Buffalo  as  well  as  the  Falls,  the  latter  route  is 
more  circuitous,  and  can  be  taken  with  greater  conven- 
ience in  returning. 

The  intervening  places  between  Batavia  and  Buffa- 
lo, are  Pembroke,  14  miles-— Clarence  8 — Williamsvilla 


E  F 


t 


I 

s 


I 


230 


RniR  C  \NAL. 


8 — from  which  to  BiuTalo  is  tO  miles.     [For  a  descrip- 
tion of  the  latter  place,  see  "Canal  Route."] 

ERIE  CANAL. 

This  magaificcnt  structure  was  commenced  under 
th?  patronage  of  the  state,  on  the  4Lh  of  July,  1817, 
and  Wiis  completed  in  1825,  uniting  the  waters  of  the 
Erie  and  Hudson,  at  an  expense  of  less  than  seven  mil- 
lions of  dollars,  a  sum  trivial  in  comparison  with  the 
iaimense  advantage  derived  to  the  state  from  such  com- 
munication.    The  canal,  beginning  at  Albany  on  the 
Hudson,  passes  up  the  west  bank  of  that  river  nearly 
to  the  mouth  of  the  Mohawk  ;  thence  along  the  bank 
of  the  Mohawk,  to   Schenectady,  crossing  the  river 
twice  by  2  aqueducts.     From  Schenectady  it  follows 
th?  south  bank  of  the  Mohawk  until  it  reaches  Rome. 
In   iome  places  it  encroaches  so  near  as  to  require  em- 
bankments made  up  from  the  river  to  support  it.     An 
embankment  of  this  description  at  Amsterdam  village, 
is  ">  or  6  miles  in  extent.    What  is  called  the  long  levd, 
b^irg  a  distance  of  69  1-2  milrs  without  an  interven- 
ing lock,  commences  in  the  town  of  Frankfort,  about  8 
miles  east  of  Utica,  and  terminates  3-4  of  a  mile  east 
from  Syracuse  ;   from   thence   the   route  proceeds  '>5 
nils  to  Lake  Port,  situated  on  the  east  border  of  the 
Cayuga  marshes,  3  miles  in  extent,  over  which  to  the 
great  embankment,  72  feet  in  iieight  and  near  2  milos 
in  length,  is  a  distance  of  52  miles  ;  thence  6^  mil  s 
to  the  commencement  of  the  Genesee  level,  extending 
westward  to  Lockport,  nearly  parallel  with  the  rid^e 
road,  65  miles.     Soven  miles  from  iheiice  to  Pendleton 
village  tlie  canal  enters  Tonnewanta  creek,  wl  ica  it 


•  i 


;*■ 


|r  a  descnp- 


ced  under 
uly,  1817, 
ters  of  the 
seven  mil- 
n  with  the 
such  corn- 
any  on  t-'ie 
iver  nearly 
i  the  bank 
the  river 
it  follows 
les  Rome, 
'quire  em- 
rt  it.     An 
m  village, 
on  or  lev(  ], 

interven- 
t,  about  8 
mile  east 
•ceeds  35 
ler  of  the 
oh  to  t])e 
'  2  miles 
B^  mil  s 
Ktendincr 
\ie  rid*  e 
.•ndlcto?! 
Wi  ich  it 


Eniii  canal. 


231 


follows  12  miles,  and  thence  following  the  east  side  of 
the  Niagara  river,  communicates  with  Lake  Erie  at 
Buffilo.  The  wliole  line  of  the  canal  from  Albany  to 
Buffalo  is  363  miles  in  length.  It  is  40  feet  wide  at  the 
top  and  23  feet  wide  at  the  bottom.  The  water  flows 
at  the  depth  of  4  feet  in  a  moderate  descent  of  half  an 
inch  in  a  mile.  The  tow  path  is  elevated  about  4  feet 
from  the  surface  of  the  water,  and  is  10  feet  wide.  The 
whole  length  of  the  canal  includes  83  locks  and  18 
aqueducts  of  various  extent.  The  locks  are  construct- 
ed in  the  most  durable  manner  of  stone  laid  in  water 
lime,  and  are  90  feet  in  length,  and  1 5  feet  in  width. 
The  whole  rit  e  and  fall  of  lockage  is  688  feet ;  and  the 
height  of  Lak  Erie  above  the  Hudson  568  feet.  The 
principal  aqueducts  are,  one  crossing  the  Genesee  river 
at  Rochester,  804  feet  in  length  ;  one  crossing  the  Mo- 
hawk at  Little  Falls,  supported  by  3  arches,  the  centre 
of  70  feet,  and  those  on  each  side  of  50  feet  chord  ;  and 
two  crossing  the  Mohawk  river  near  Alexander's  bridge, 
one  of  which  is  748  feet  and  the  other  1188  feet  in 
length.  The  whole  workmanship  evinces  a  degree  of 
beauty  and  proportion  consistent  with  the  greatest 
strength.  In  many  places  the  sides  of  the  canal  are 
either  paved  with  small  stones  or  covered  with  thick 
grass,  designed  to  prevent  the  crumbling  of  the  soil  by 
the  motion  of  the  water.  To  the  main  canal  are  a 
number  of  side  cuts  or  lateral  canals  :  one  opposite 
Troy,  connecting  with  the  Hudson  ;  one  at  Syracuse, 
a  mile  and  a  haJf  in  length,  to  Salina  ;  one  from  Syra- 
cuse to  Oswego,  38  miles  in  length ;  one  at  Orville ; 
one  at  Chitteningo  :  one  at  Lake  Port,  extending  to 
the  Cayuga  lake,  5  miles,  and  from  thence  to  the  Sen- 


S32 


ERIE  CANAL. 


cca  lake  at  Geneva,  a  distance  of  15  miles  ;  and  one  at 
Rochester  of  two  miles  in  length,  whioh  serves  tho 
double  purpose  of  a  navigable  feeder,  and  a  mean  of 
communication  for  boats  between  the  canal  and  the  Gen- 
esee river.  The  Chemung  canal,  extending  from  tho 
head  waters  of  the  Seneca  lake  to  the  Chemung  river. 
18  miles  distant,  with  a  navigable  feeder  of  13  miles, 
from  Painted  Post  on  the  Chernung  river  to  the  sum- 
mit level  of  the  canal,  is  learly  completed.  The  Crook- 
ed lake  canal,  7  miles  in  length,  extending  from  the  out- 
let of  the  Seneca  lake  to  the  Crooked  lake,  near  Pen 
Yan,  is  also  in  progress.  The  debt  contracted  for  tho 
Champlain  and  Erie  canals,  amounted  on  the  1st  of 
January,  1826,  to  $9,108,269,  including  }(il,621,274, 
expended  in  the  construction  of  feeders,  lateral  canals, 
dams,  &c.  and  in  the  payment  of  salaries  of  the  com- 
missioners and  other  officers  engaged  in  the  work. 
The  revenue  from  the  tolls  of  both  canals,,  in  1822, 
amounted  to  $64,071  ;  in  1S23,  to  $151,099  ;  in  1824,  to 
J^283,320  J.  in  1825,  to  $500,000  ;  in  1826,  to  675,180; 
in  1827,  to  $859,058  ;  in  1828,  to  803,000  ;  in  1829,* 
to  $813,137  ;  in  1830,  to  $1,056,799  ;  in  1831,  to  $1,- 
202,531;  and  in  1832,  to  $1,229,433.  The  canal  debt  on 
the  1st  January,  1833,  amounted  to  $7,001,035  ;  and  the 
Burplus  moneys  in  the  canal  fund  on  the  30th  Septem- 
ber preceding,  including  tolls,  duties  oh  salt  and  auc- 
tions, and  other  sources,  applicable  to  the  extinguish- 
ment of  this  debt,  was  $3,055,247.     No  part  is  redeem- 


*  The  tolls  of  tho  Osw^jro  and  Cavnora  and  Seneca 


canals  are  included,  after  1&29. 


fci 


CANAL  ROITTR. 


233 


and  one  at 
serves  tho 
a  mean  of 
nd  the  Gen- 
iig  from  the 
hmmg  river, 
>f  13  miles, 
|to  the  SLin- 
he  Crook- 
om  the  out- 
e,  near  Pen 
cted  for  tho 
the  1st  of 

3ral  canals, 
)r  the  coni- 

the  Work. 
s^  in  1822, 

in  1824,  to 
3  675, ISO  J 

in  1829,'^' 
>1,  to  ,$],, 
•aldebton 

;  and  the 
1  Septem- 

and  auc- 
tinguisii- 

redeeni- 


Seneca 


'i>. 


iM\ 


able  until  July,  1S37,  vi^hen  $3,489,000  becomes  paya- 
ble ;  and  the  residue,  $3,512,035,  in  July,  1845.  Should 
the  receipts,  however,  continue  to  auo^ment  in  the  samo 
ratio  as  heretofore,  it  is  believed  the  state  will  possess 
the  means  of  extinguishing  the  entire  debt  in  1838. 

CANAL  PASSAGE. 

Of  the  sources  of  gratification  to  the  tourist,  during 
the  canal  passage,  that  of  novelty  is  perhaps  the  great- 
est. To  tho  man  of  pleasure,  it  will  be  considered,  per- 
haps, too  little  diversified  with  incident  to  be  repeated  ; 
but  to  the  man  of  business  this  objection  will  probably 
yield  to  the  united  considerations  of  the  convenience 
and  safety  of  this  mode  of  conveyance.  The  passage 
boats  are  generally  constructed  80  feet  in  length  and 
14  feet  in  width,  and  draw  from  1  to  2  feet  of  water. 
The  cal>in  occupies  the  whole  length  of  the  deck,  ex- 
cepting about  8  or  10  feet  icserved  at  one  end  for  the 
cook,  and  4  or  6  feet  at  the  other  end  for  the  pilot. 
The  intermediate  space  is  occupied  ag  a  cabin,  con- 
structed from  the  dock  into  a  room  8  feet  in  height, 
with  single  births  on  each  side,  and  calculated  to  ac- 
commodato  30  persons.  The  boats  are  drawn  by  three 
horses,  one  before  the  other,  and  move  dvv  and  nisht, 
at  the  rate  of  4  miles  an  hour.  Relays  are  furnished 
every  8  or  10  miles.  Boats  with  commodities  proceed 
at  the  rate  of  55  miles  in  24  hours  ;  and  boats  with  pas- 
sengers (including  delays)  about  85  miles  in  the  same 
time. 

CANAL  ROUTE. 
The  several  places  and  distances,  as  they  occur  on 
the  canal  route  from  Albany  to  Buffalo  arft  as  follows  : 


^^ 


S34 


CANAL  ROUTn. 


I 


ii      li 


V   i 


Distance  from 


>; 

• 

ri 

•T3 

c 

• 

'Ph 

4^ 

• 

0) 

o 

r» 

a 

• 

• 

PQ 

•4-1 

to 

o 

t 

03 

ed 

o 
•  ^ 

2 

4^ 
o 

o 

o 

o 

O- 

<1 

m 

£ 

o) 

P^ 

C:! 

J 

3 


ALBANY 

Junction 

Schenectady 

Amsterdam 

Schoharie  Creek . , 
Caughnawaga.. . . 
Spraker's  Basin  . . 

Canajoharie 

Bowman's  Creek  . 

Little  Falls 

Herkimer 

German  Flats . , . , 

Frankfort 

Utica , 

Whitesboro' 

Oriskany 

Rome 

New-London  .... 

Loomis 

Oneida  Creek. . . , 

Lenox  Basin 

Canastota 

New  Boston ..... 

Chitteningo 

Kirk  vf  lie 

Manilas . 


....... 


Orville 

Syracuse 

Geddes 

Nine  Mile  Creek.. 
Camillas 


0 

7 

2 

21 

16 

7 

4 

9 

3 

3 

16 

7 

2 

3 
10 


d 

4 

8 

7 

6 

3 

3 

2 

4 

4 

4 


9 
30 
46 
53 
57 
66 
69 
72 
88 
95 
97 
100 
110 
114 
117 
125 
132 
138 
141 
144 
\Ui 
150 
154 
158 


30 
23 
21 
0 
16 
23 
27 
36 
39 
42 
58 
65 
67 
70 

sol 

S'l 
87 
95 

102 

108 

111 

114 

116 


120 
J  24 

128 


13^ 
135 
141 


162 

165 

171 
2  173  143 
6  171)  149 
1 


110 

103 

101 

80 

64 

57 

53 

44 

4t 

38 

22 

15 

13 

10 

0 

4 

7 

15 

22 

23 

31 

34 


180  150  70 


36 

40 

44 

48 

52 

5o 

61 

63 

69 


171 
164 
162 
141 
125 
118 
114 
105 
102 
99 


200 

193 

191 

170 

154 

147 

143 

134 

131 

128 


83  112 
7G  105 
74il03 


71 

61 

57 

54 

4G 

39 

33 

30 

27 

25 

21 

17 

13 

9 

6 

0 

2 

8 


100 
90 
86 
83 
75 
68 
62 
59 
56 
54 
50 

46 

42 

38 

35 

29 

27 

21 

20 


270 

263 

261 

240 

224 

217 

213 

204 

201 

198 

182 

175 

173 


333 
326 


363 
356 


324  354 
303  333 

287  317 
280  310 
276  306 
267  297 
264  294 
261  291 
245  275 
238  2G8 
236  266 
170' 2331263 


160 
156 
153 
145 
138 
132 
12£ 
126 
124 
120, 


223253 
219|249 
216:246 
208238 
2011231 
1951225 
1 921222 
189'219 


187 
183 


1161179 
112il75 
108  171 


105 
99 
97 
91 
90 


162 
160 
154 
153 


217 

213 

209 

205 

201 

198 

192 

190 

\S^ 

183 


^t.SL 


iiwm.(Li.»i 


.  «i*.  «u'm>Ji'i%jmm!,3.n 


CANAL  ROUTE. 


235 


1 


o 

•4-1 

to 

X! 
o 
o 


o 


270 
263 
261 


333 
326 
324 


287 
280 
276 


363 
356 
354 
333 
317 
310 
306 


267297 
264294 
261 '291 


240 1 303 

224 

217 

213 

204 

201 

198 

182 

175 

173 

170 

160 

156 

153 

145J208|238 

138  2011231 

32  1951225 
I92J222 
I89'219 
1871217 
183213 


245 
238 
236 
^33 
223 
219 


275 
2G8 
266 
203 
253 
249 


216!2';!6 


12£ 
[20 
24 
20 
16.' J  79 
I2I175 
08  171 
05,168 


99 
97 
91 


162 
160 
154 
153 


209 

205 

201 

193 

192 

190 

184 

183 


Distance 

from 

• 

t 

>> 

• 

/^ 

-0 

c 

L* 

"a. 

B 

0) 

£ 

0) 

t: 

c 

CD 

8' 

ockpo 

"a. 

< 

M 

D 

m 

\Cu 

ci 

Iw-)  1 

3 


M 


Canton 

Jordan 

Weed's  Port. . . . 

Centre  Port 

Port  Byron 

Lakeport 

Clyde 

Lyons  

Lockville 

Newark 

Port  Gibson  . . . , 

Palmyra 

Fair  Port 

Fullom's  Basin . 

Pittsford 

Rochester 

Spencer's  Basin 

Ogden 

Adams'  Basin. . 

Brock  port 

Hollev 

Murray 

Albion 

Portville 

Oak  Orchard . . . 

Medina 

Middleport . . . . 

Lockport 

Pendleton 

Tonawanda  . . . 
Black  Rock . . . . 
BUFFALO.... 


5 
6 
6 
1. 
2 
6 

11 
9 
6 
1 
3 
5 

II 
2 
0 


1851155 
191  161 


197 

198 


167 
168 


2001170 
2061176 


217 
226 
232 
233 


187 
196 
202 
203 


236,206 
2411211 
252:222 


254 
260 
10|270 
l0i2S0 


2 
3 
5 

5' 
2 
8 


282 
235 
290 
295 


224 
230 
240 
250 
252 
255 
260 
265 


75 

81 

87 

88 

90 

96 
107 
116 
122 
123 
126 
131 
142 
144 
150 
1601 
1701109 
1721111 
175'll4 

iso!ii9 

1851124 


^ 


14 
20 
26 
27 

29 
35 
46 
55 
61 
62 
65 
70 
81 
83 
89 
99 


297:267| 
3051275 
4  309:279 


314 
315 


6,321 
12  333 

71340 


284 

285 

291 

303' 

310 

121 352  322 

8.360I33O 

3 '363 '333 


187 
195 
199 
204 
205 
211 
225 


126 
134 
138 
143 
144 
150 
162 


15 

9 

3 

2 

0 

6 

17 

26 

32 

33 

36 

41 

52 

54 

60 

70 

80 

82 

85 

90 

95 

97 

105 

109 

114 

115 


230  169 

262  lol 


,133 
140 

152 


250 
253 


159 
192 


85 
79 
73 
72 
70 
64 
53 
44 
38 
37 
34 
29 
18 
16 
10 
0 
10 
12 
15 
20 
25 
27 
35 
39 
44 
45 


121!  51 


63 

70 
82 


1601  90 
163  93 


148 

142 

136 

135 

133 

127 

116 

107 

101 

100 

97 

92 

81 

79 

73 

63 

53 

51 

48 

43 

38 

36 

28 

24 

19 

18 

12 

0 

7 

19 

27 

30 


178 

172 

166 

165 

163 

157 

146 

137 

131 

130 

127 

122 

111 

109 

103 

93 

83 

81 

78 

73 

68 

66 

58 

54 

49 

48 

42 

30 

23 

11 

3 

0 


"  11 


I 


it 


^. 


S36 


fANAL  ROUTE — MOHAWK  CASTLE. 


For  a  description  of  Albany,  Troy,  the  Junction, 
Schenectady,  Amsterdam,  Schoharie  Creek  and 
Cauchnawaga,  8ee  pages  137,  143,  145,  154,  195,  196. 

Anthony's  Nose,  8  miles  from  Cauo:hnawaga.  This 
is  a  very  abrupt  and  prominent  hill  on  the  south  side  of 
the  canal,  having  on  its  top  a  cavern,  which  extends  to 
a  great  depth. 

Shraker's  Basin,  I   mile  farther,  is  a  small  village, 
which  has  recently  sprung  up  on  the  bank  of  the  canal. 

Canajoharie,  3  miles.     {See  p.  197.) 

Bowman's  Creek,  1  mile. 

Fort  Plain,  3  miles.     {See  p.  197.) 

East  Canada  Creek,  4  miles.  This  creek  enters 
the  Mohawk  on  the  north  side ;  near  which  Capt.  But- 
ler was  killed  by  the  Indians  soon  after  his  wanton  de- 
struction of  the  village  of  Cherry  Valley. 

Mohawk  Castle,  2  miles.  The  ruins  of  an  old 
chapel  erected  for  the  use  of  the  Mohawk  Indians  are 
still  visible  at  this  place,  and  also  some  slight  remains  of 
their  once  formidable  fortifications. 

Three  miles  farther,  as  the  boat  approaches  Little 
Falls,  the  scenery  becomes  highly  picturesque  and  sub- 
lime. On  either  side  are  lofty  and  apparently  inacces- 
sible mountains,  affording  a  narrow  pass  for  tlie  road, 
river  and  canal.  Indeed,  the  latter,  for  a  considerable 
distance,  is  formed  by  an  excavation  in  the  side  of  the 
mountain,  having  a  wall  of  20  or  30  feet  to  support  its 
northern  embankment.  The  river  here,  for  two  or 
three  miles  in  extent,  descends  with  much  rapidity  over 
a  rocky  and  uneven  bottom,  and  exhibits,  in  some  in- 


t£SSS0!iikfm£m)iMttm 


rLE. 


CANiL    ROU TC WHI'I  liSBOKOUGH. 


237 


10  Junction, 
Creek  and 
154,  195,  196. 
lawaga.   This 
south  side  of 
iich  extends  to 

aniall  village, 
k  of  the  canal. 


a  creek  enters 
lich  Capt.  But- 
his  wanton  de- 

■ 

jins  of  an  old 
vk  Indians  are 
ight  remains  of 

roaches  Little 
3sque  and  sub- 
rently  inacccs- 
s  for  tlie  road, 
a  considerable 
he  side  of  the 
to  support  its 
e,  for  two  or 
1  rapidity  over 
3,  in  some  in- 


Btances,  an  appearance  not  »  ilike  the  rapidi  abuve  th« 
falls  of  the  Niagara. 

Little  Falls,  5  miles  from  Mohawk  Castle.  {Set 
p.  198.) 

After  leaving  Little  Falls,  the  canal  enters  a  smooth 
and  delightful  level,  including  what  are  called  the  Ger- 
man Flats,  passing  near  the  village  of  Herkimer,  7 
miles  from  the  Falls,  {see  p.  201  ;)  from  thence  to 
Frankfort,  5  miles  ;  and  from  thence  t.o  Utica,  10 
miles. 

{Far  a  description  of  Utica  and  Trenton  Falls,  see  pages 

202  to  210.) 

Whitesborough,  4  miles  north-west  of  Utica,  is  a 
beautiful  and  wealthy  village,  located  on  a  rich  and  fer, 
tile  plain.  The  principal  and  most  elegant  street  is  a 
short  distance  from,  and  runs  parallel  with  the  canal ; 
from  which,  through  branches  of  trees  half  enshroud- 
ing the  village,  may  be  seen  several  elegant  country 
seats.  It  may  be  considered,  indeed,  as  better  adapted 
for  a  country  residence  than  a  place  of  business.  At 
the  eastern  extremity  of  the  village  is  shown  the  first 
framed  house  erected  in  the  county  of  Oneida  ;  half  a 
mile  from  which,  the  canal  passes  over  the  Sauquait 
creek.  Within  11  miles  of  the  canal,  on  this  creek, 
there  are  84  mills  of  various  descriptions,  inducing 
several  factories,  some  of  which  cost  rising  of  $120,000. 
The  York  mills,  or  cotton  factories,  half  a  mile  south  of 
the  canal,  are  considered  among  the  best  in  the  state, 
and  constitute  of  themselves,  with  the  houses  for  labor- 
ers, a  compact  village. 


238 


CANAL    ROLTE ROME. 


[SKANT,  3 


i        >-'l 


iffl    ^t 


I  ! 


It  is  situated  on 


lies  from  Whitesborouch,  is  a 
ishiriff  villaoe  of  about  100  houses. 

c3  CD 

the  Oriskany  creek,  which  here  enters  the  canal  as  a 
feeder.  The  Oriskany  Manufacturing  Company  have 
a  woollen  factory  here,  which  is  the  most  extensive  of 
the  kind  of  any  in  the  state.  The  capital  of  the  com- 
pany is  $200,000,  one  half  of  which  has  been  paid  in  ; 
and  the  amount  of  wool  annually  consumed  is  160,000 
pounds. 

Rome,  8  miles.     This  is  a  half  shire  town  of  the 
county  of  Oneida,  contains  a  court  house,  jail  and  bank, 
and  is  pleasantly  situated  on  the  north  side  of  the  old 
canal  connecting  Wood  creek  with  the  Mohawk,  and 
about  half  a  mile  north  of  the  Erie  canal.     It  contains 
between  150  and  200  houses,   principally  located  on 
one  street,  running  east  and  west.     The  ruins  of  Fort 
StanwiXf  near  the  village,  between  Wood  creek  and  the 
Mohawk,  are  still  visible.     This  fort  was  erected  in 
1758  by  the  British,  was  suffered  to  decay,  and  was  af- 
terwards rebuilt  by  the  Americans  during  the  revolu- 
tion.    15  or  1800  men,  including  Indians,  were  sent 
from  Montreal  by  Burgoyne,  in  1777,  to  bescige  the 
Fort.     They  were  commanded  by  the  Baron  St.  Legcr. 
Gen.  Herkimer,  commandant  of  the  militia  of  Tryon 
county,  (embracing  the  present  counties  of  Montgom- 
ery and  Herkimer,)  was  sent  against  them  with  about 
800  men.     On  meeting  a  detachment  of  Leger's  forces, 
the  militia  mostly  fled  on  the  first  fire.     A  few,  howev- 
er, remained  and  fought  by  the  ?ide  of  Gen.  H.  who 
was  mortally  wounded  in  the  road  between  Whites- 
town  and  Rome.     The  Americans  lost  160  killed  and 
240  wounded.     The  foit,  which  was  commanded  hy 


i       I 


,   .      :,.*■ 


ih,  is  a  flour- 
lis  situated  on 
fhe  canal  as  a 
'ornpany  have 
pt  extensive  of 
il  of  the  com- 
Ibeen  paid  in  • 
led  is  160,000 

tovi-n  of  the 
jail  and  bank, 
iide  of  the  old 
Mohawk,  and 
It  contains 
ly  located  on 
ruins  of  Fort 
creek  and  the 
as  erected  in 
',  and  vi'as  af- 
g  the  revolu- 
is,  were  sent 
)  bescige  the 
on  St.  Legcr. 
itia  of  Tryon 
>f  Montgoni- 
n  with  about 
eger's  forccp, 
few,  howcv- 
ren.  H.  who 
en  Whites- 
3  killed  and 
imanded  by 


CANAL    ROUTE SYRACUSE. 


239 


Col.  Gansevoort,  was  afterwards  assaulted  by  Leger's 
army ;  but  they  were  driven  off  by  a  sortie,  directed  by 
Col.  Willet,  and  their  camp  plundered.  Subsequently, 
the  foit  was  summoned  to  surrender ;  but  through  a 
stratagem  of  Gen.  Arnold,  who  sent  two  emissaries 
from  the  camp  at  Stillwater,  an  Indian  and  a  white 
man,  to  inform  Leger  of  the  approach  of  a  powerful 
American  army  for  the  relief  of  the  besieged,  he  ordered 
a  precipitate  retreat  to  the  Oneida  lake,  leaving  all  his 
baggage  behind. 

An  arsenal  belonging  to  the  U.  S.  is  situate  about 
half  a  mile  west  of  the  village  and  300  yards  north  of 
the  canal. 

New  London,  a  small  village,  is  passed,  7  miles  from 
Rome ;  and  the  village  of  Loomis,  6  miles  farther ;  3 
miles  from  which,  the  canal  crosses  the  Oneida  Creek. 
F'rom  thence  to  Lenox  Basin,  is  3  miles ;  to  Canasto- 
TA,  a  new  and  flourishing  village,  2  miles  ;  and  to  New 
Boston,  4  miles. 

Chittenixgo  is  4  miles  farther.  A  navigable  feeder 
enters  the  canal  at  this  place.  It  is  taken  from  the 
Chittcningo  creek  at  the  village  of  that  name,  a  mile 
and  a  half  distant.  {See  p.  212.)  From  Chitteningo 
to  Manlius  (see  p.  21 S)  is  8  miles  ;  from  thence  to  Or- 
ville  3  ;*  and  from  thence  6  miles  to 

Syracuse,  The  appearance  of  this  village  as  you 
approach  it,  is  ve  y  handsome.     It  is  built  on  both  sides 


*  At  this  place  are  inexhaustible  bods  of  water  lime, 
used  for  hydraulic  cement ;  large  quanties  of  which  are 
annually  exported. 

v2 


■II 
♦1 


111  '. 
^f    il 


;;^    M 


I 


I 
4 


240 


CANAL    ROUTE — SALINA. 


of  the  canal,  and  the  stores  and  warehouses  are  sub- 
Btantial  and  lofty.     On  the  left  as  you  come  up  the  ca- 
nal, is  one  of  the  most  splendid  Hotels  in  the  state. 
It  is  of  brick,  four  or  five  stories  high,  and  surrounded 
with  piazzas.     There  are  also  nearly  500  dwellings  and 
stores,  several  handsome  churches,  a  bank,  couit  house 
and  jail,  and  every  thing  has  the  appearance  of  a  com- 
mercial bustling  town.      This  thriving  village  owes  its 
importance  principally  to  the  immense  quantity  of  salt 
produced  in  its  ncigborhood,  the  whole  adjacent  coun- 
try being  impregnated  with  it,  and  springs  from  which 
immense  quantities  are  manufactured  rising  in  various 
directions.     A  httle  west  of  Syracuse,  a  plain  of  300 
acres  is  nearly  covered  with  vats  for  the  manufacture 
of  salt  by  solar  evaporation.     The  water  is  brought  in 
logs  from  the  great  spring  at  Salina,  one  mile  distant, 
and   supplies,  with  very  little  attention,   the  various 
ranges  of  vats.     A  light  roof  is  constructed  to  each  vat, 
which  can  be  shoved  off  or  on  at  pleasure,  to  permit  the 
rays  of  the  sun  to  act  upon  the  water,  or  to  prevent  the 
dampness  of  the  atmosphere  from  commingling  there- 
with.     The  salt  is  taken  out  of  these  vats  twice  or 
three  times  during  the  warm  season,  and  removed  to 
store  houses  ;  from  whence  it  is  conveyed  in  barrels  to 
the  canal  for  transportation. 

Salina  is  one  and  a  half  mile  north  of  Syracuse,  and 
though  not  on  the  usually  travelled  route  to  the  west, 
should  be  visited  for  the  purpose  of  examining  the  prin- 
cipal spring,  and  the  various  salt  establishments  con- 
nected therewith.  A  packet  constantly  plies  between 
the  villages  on  a  lateral  canal,  affording  an  easy  and 
pleasant  mode  of  conveyance. 


\ 


''MIlilMMdlL' ' 


CANAL  ROUTE — SALINA. 


241 


3es  are  sub- 
le  up  the  Ca- 
in the  state, 
i  surrounded 
wolhngs  aiul 
court  house 
CO  of  a  coin- 
age owes  its 
mtity  of  salt 
Ijacent  coun- 
;  from  which 
igin  various 
plain  of  300 
manufacture 
is  brought  in 
mile  distant, 
the  various 
d  to  each  vat, 
to  permit  the 
o  prevent  the 
tighng  there- 
ats  twice  or 
removed  to 
in  barrels  to 

yracuse,  and 

to  the  west, 
ing  the  prin- 
iments  con- 
ies between 
m  easy  and 


The  spring  at  Salina  was  first  discovered  by  the  In- 
diana many  years  since,  by  being  the  resort  of  deer  and 
other  animals.     The  first  white  settlers  were  in  the 
habit  of  boiling  the  water  in  small  vessels  for  domestic 
purposes.     Since  then,  the  spring  has  been  excavated 
to  a  very  considerable  depth,  and  aflbrds  the  strongest 
saline  water  yet  discovered  in  the  woild,  40  gallons 
yielding  about  a  bushel  of  pure  salt.     The  water  is  for- 
ced up  to  the  top  of  an  adjoining  hill  by  a  powerful  hy- 
draulian  driven  by  the  surplus  waters  from  the  Osv/ego 
canal,  which  commences  at  this  place.     The  salt  wa- 
ter is  in  this  way  conveyed  85  feet  above  the  canal  to 
a  large  reservoir,  into  which  it  is  discharged  at  the  rate 
of  300  gallons  per  minute.     It  is  hence  carried  to  the 
different  factories  in  Salina  and  Syracuse.     Of  these 
there  are  about  100  at  Salina  and  30  at  Syracuse  ; 
there  are  also  36  at  Liverpool,  about  6  miles  north-west 
of  Salina,  and  about  30  at  Geddes,  2  miles  west  of 
Syracuse.     The  works  and  springs  all  belong  to  the 
state,  to  which  imposts  are  payable  to  the  amount  of  63 
cents  per  barrel  of  5  bushels,*  and  every  manufacturer 
pays  two  cents  per  bushel  for  the  use  of  the  water.    The 
water  is  conveyed  from  the  reservoir  to  the  different 
manufactories   and   evaporating    fields,   by   means   of 
wooden  pip33.     The  salt  is  manufactured  generally  by 
boiling  and  eva;.  oration.     There  are,  however,  two  es- 
tablishments in  which  it  is  made  in  large  wooden  vats 
by  means  of  hot  air  passing  through  them  in  large  me- 
talic  pipes.     The  manufactories  contain  from  15  to  40 


*  These  dutiori  arc  applied  by  the  constitution  of  the 
state  toward.s  the  extiuguiyhment  of  the  canal  debt. 


''J  i 


243 


CANAL  ROUTE — GEDDES. 


m 


potash  kettles,  under  each  of  which  a  constant  fire  is 
kept  up,  so  that  the  water  may  not  cease  to  boil.  The 
first  deposit  of  the  water  is  thrown  away.  The  pure 
salt  soon  after  makes  its  appearance,  and  is  refined  for 
tho  t.al)lo  by  means  of  blood,  milk,  rosin,  &c.  The 
springs  are  considered  as  inexhaustible  ;  and  the  a- 
mouiit  of  salt  manufactured  annually  is  about  1,600,- 
000  bushels. 

Salina  is  a  flourishing  village,  but  of  less  magni- 
tude than  Syracuse  ;  though  from  the  rapidly  increas- 
ing growth  of  both,  it  is  not  improbable  that  they  will 
ere  long  become  a  continuous  town.  A  fine  view  of 
the  Onondaga  Lake,  about  a  mile  distant,  is  had  from 
the  place.  It  is  six  miles  long  and  two  broad.  At  its 
north-western  extremity  is  seen  the  pleasant  village  of 
Liverpool,  of  more  recent  origm,  but  promising  to  be- 
come a  place  of  some  importance.  Gypsum  and  petri- 
factions are  found  in  great  quantities  in  the  vicinity  of 
the  lake. 

The  Oswego  Canal,  from  the  Onondaga  lake  to 
Lake  Ontario  at  Oswego,  is  38  miles  long,  including  90 
miles  of  the  Oswego  river,  on  which  are  several  locks 
and  dams.  The  whole  lockage  of  the  canal  and  river 
is  1-23  feet. 

Geddes,  2  miles  by  canal  from  Syracuse,  is  becom- 
ing a  place  of  some  importance,  in  consequence  of  the 
recent  discovery  of  several  valuable  salt  springs.  They 
are  mostly  within  a  few  rods  of  the  canal,  as  well  as 
numerous  establishments  for  the  manufacture  of  salt. 
A  short  distance  west  of  the  village,  a  fine  prospect  is 
had  of  the  Onondaga  lake  and  the  villages  of  Liverpool 
and  Salina,  on  its  northern  and  eastern  shores. 


CANaL  route — LAKE  PORT. 


243 


onstant  fire  is 
to  boil.     The 

ly.  The  pure 
is  refined  for 

in,  &c.  The 
and  the  a- 
about  IjGOO,. 

f  loss  magni- 
ipidly  increas- 
that  they  will 
A  fine  view  of 
t,  is  had  from 
broad.  At  its 
Lsant  village  of 
)misin£j  to  be- 
3um  and  petri- 
the  vicinity  of 

nda^a  lake  to 
J,  including  90 
5  several  locks 
anal  and  river 

Lise,  is  becom- 
quence  of  the 
prints.  They 
al,  as  well  as 
cture  of  salt, 
ne  prospect  ia 
i  of  Liverpool 
lores. 


Nine  Mile  Creek,  G  miles  from  Geddcs..  It  is  a 
stream  of  some  magnitude,  and  is  crossed  by  the  canal, 
over  two  arches. 

Camillus,  1  mile. 

Canton,  a  small  village,  5  miles. 

Jordan,  G  miles.  A  short  distance  cast  of  the  vil- 
lage, the  canal  crosses  the  Jordan  creek. 

Weed's  Port,  6  miles.  A  thriving  village  of  80  or 
90  houses.  A  stage  can  be  taken  here  daily  for  Au- 
burn, 7  miles  south.     (See  p.  215.) 

Centre  Port,  1  mile. 

Port  Byron,  2  miles.  The  canal  here  crosses  the 
Owasco  creek,  a  stream  issuing  from  a  lake  of  that 
name  2  miles  south  of  Aul)urn.  The  state  prison  is 
erected  on  the  bank  of  this  creek,  the  waters  of  which 
are  used  for  propelling  the  machinery. 

Five  miles  farther  are  the  Montezuma  salt  works, 
about  I  of  a  mile  north  of  the  canal,  with  a  lateral  cut 
leading  thereto  ;  one  mile  from  which  is  the  small  vil- 
lage of 

Lake  Port.  The  western  section  of  the  canal  (con- 
tradi.stiiigui.^hed  from  the  middle  and  eastern  sections) 
conmienc<^s  at  this  place.  From  Utica  to  Lake  Port, 
the  mean  dcsceril  of  the  canal  is  45  feet ;  and  there  arc 
y  locks,  ascending  and  descending.  From  Lake  Port 
to  Lockport  tlie  ascent  is  185  feet,  and  the  number  of 
intervening  locks  21.  The  waters  of  the  canal  at  the 
former  place  arc  remarka]>ly  pure  and  chrystaline  in 
their  appearance,  not  unfrequently  exhibiting  largo 
quantitiep  offish  at  their  bottom. 


"■      ""'■""■'*—WWWMl 


'         I 


I     I 


I 


244 


CANAL  ROUTB FULLOM's  BASIM. 


One  mile  from  Lake  Port,  the  canal  enters  tlie  Mon- 
tezuma marshes,  3  miles  in  extent.  These  marshes 
are  formed  by  the  outlets  of  the  Cayuga  and  Seneca 
lakes,  and  exhibit  a  most  dreary,  desolate  and  stagnant 
appearance.  The  water  is  generally  from  4  to  8  feet 
deep,  and  the  bottom  covered  with  long  grass,  the  usu- 
al growth  of  swamps,  extending  frequently  to  the  sur- 
face. A  long  bridge  is  used  for  a  tow  path  over  a  part 
of  these  marshop.  Shortly  after  leaving  them,  the  ca- 
nal crosses  and  unites  with  the  outlet  of  the  Canandai- 
gua  lake,  a  slngglish  stream,  which,  with  the  outlets  of 
Cayuga  and  Seneca,  soon  form  the  Seneca  river,  which 
enters  Lake  Ontario  at  Oswego. 

Clyde,  1 1  miles  from  Lake  Port,  is  a  flourishing  vil- 
lage, containing  glass  works.  From  thence  to  Lyons, 
a  handsome  village,  is  9  miles  ;  and  from  thence  to 
LocKviLLK  6  miles,  to  Newark  1  mile,  and  to  Port 
Gibson  3  miles. 

Palmyra,  8  miles  farther,  is  a  thriving  village  in 
Wayne  county.  Tt  is  built  chiefly  on  a  wide  street 
along  the  south  bank  of  the  canal,  and  is  a  place  of 
considerable  trade.  jVTud  creek  runs  eastward,  about 
40  rods  north  of  the  main  street,  and  the  canal  passes 
between  the  creek  and  the  street.  There  are  several 
factories  and  mills  on  this  creek.  Palmyra  and  Port 
Gibson  are  landing  places  for  goods  designed  for  Can- 
an<laiguu. 

Fair  Port,  11  miles. 

Fullom's  Basin,  12  miles.  From  this  place  to  Roch- 
ester, by  canal,  is  16  miles  ;  while  the  distance  by  land 
is  but  7 J.     Travellers,  accordingly,  who  have  seen  the 


t 


CANAL  HOUTF, — ROCTIESTBR. 


i4!i 


[ers  tlie  Moii- 
fiese  marshes 
and  Seneca 
J  and  stagnant 
Im  4  to  8  feet 
frass,  the  usu- 
tly  to  the  sur- 
Ith  over  a  part 
I  them,  the  ca- 
the  Canandai- 
the  outlets  of 
:a  river,  which 

lourishing  vil- 

;nce  to  Lyons, 

rom  thence  to 

and  to  Port 

'^ing  village  in 
a  wide  street 
1  is  a  place  of 
astward,  about 
le  canal  passes 
gre  are  several 
nyra  and  Port 
g-ned  for  Can- 


place  to  Rocli- 
3tance  by  land 
have  Be^n  the 


si' 


Great  Embankment  over  the  Irondequoit  creek,  fre- 
quently take  a  stage,  to  shorten  the  excursion  ;  but 
those  who  have  never  passed  over  this  artificial  work, 
•hould  continue  on  the  canal  route.  The  embankment 
is  reached  in  about  4  miles  from  Fullom's  Basin,  and  is 
continued  for  nearly  two  miles  at  an  averajo^e  height  of 
about  70  feet.  The  novelty  of  a  passage  at  so  great 
an  elevation,  is  much  increased  in  the  fine  prospect  af- 
forded of  the  surrounding  country.  Two  miles  from 
the  embankment,  is  the  handsome  village  of 

FiTTSFORD,  containing  about  100  houses  and  several 
stores  ;  and  10  miles  farther  is  the  flourishing  and  im- 
portant village  of 

ROCHESTER. 

It  is  situated  on  the  east  and  west  side  of  the  Gene- 
see river,  which,  at  this  place,  is  50  yards  wide,  and  is 
crossed  by  2  substantial  bridges  within  the  limits  of  the 
village.  On  the  north  side  of  the  lower  bridge,  the  lo- 
cal distinction  of  East  and  West  Rochester  have  been 
in  a  measure  annihilated,  by  the  erection  of  the  Market 
and  Exchange  buildings  over  the  Genesee,  making  the 
twain  a  continued  village.  Within  its  limits  are  two  of 
the  six  falls  on  the  river;  the  upper  a  small  fall  of  12 
feet  at  the  foot  of  the  rapids,  and  immediat(^ly  above 
the  canal  aqueduct;  and  the  other  the  great  fall  of  97 
feet,  about  80  rods  below.  From  a  point  of  rock  near 
the  centre  of  these  falls,  at  th(j  foot  of  a  small  island, 
and  from  an  elevation  of  about  125  feet  above  the  water 
below,  the  celebrated  Sam  Patch  made  his  last  and  fatal 
leap  ill  the  autumn  of  1829.     His  body  was  nut  found 


■M"^ 


v^ 


tl6 


CANAL    ROUTE — ROCHESTER. 


until  the  following  spring,  when  it  was  discovered  at 
the  mouth  of  the  Genesee  river,  6  miles  below. 

From  a  complete  wilderness,  Rochester  has  been  re- 
deemed in  the  comparatively  short  period  of  a  little 
more  than  20  years,  the  first  settlement  having  been 
made  in  1812.     Its  pit  lat.on  in  the  immediate  vicinity 
of  the  canal,  a^     '^  <      7  miles  from  Lake  Ontario,  with 
a  ship  navigation   wa-^.  .  two  miles  of  the  town,  enables 
its  inhabitants  to  i. olect      >iarket  either  at  New- York, 
Ctuebec,  or  on  the  borders  of  the  great  western  lakes  ; 
and  the  many  other  natural  advantages  whicli  it  enjoys 
for  trade  and  manufactures,  destines  it  to  become  one 
of  the  most  important  places  in  the  interior  of  the  state. 
The  population  of  ilochester  at  the  census  taken  in  the 
fall  of  1827,  was  10,818,  making  an  increase  of  more 
than  3,000  within  the  precedino:  year;  and  the  number 
of  buildings  was  1474,  352  of  M'liich  had  been  built  the 
season  previous.     Its  present  population  is  estimated  at 
13,000,  and  its  number  of  buildings  at  2,000.      Tlie 
Erie   canal   strikes  the  river  in  the  south  part  of  the 
village,  and  after  following  the  eastern  bank  for  half  a 
mile,  crosses  the  river  in  the  centre  of  the  village,  in  a 
splendid  aqueduct,  which  cost  rising  of  $80,000.     This 
aqueduct  is  constructed  of  red  free  stone,  and  from  the 
eastern  extremity  of  its  parapet  walls  to  the  western 
termination,  is   804  feet  long.     It   is  built  on  eleven 
arches  ;  one  of  26,  one  of  30,  and  nine  of  50  feet  chord, 
under  which  water  passes  for  flouring  mills  and  other 
hydraulic  establishments.     The  piers,  which  are  placed 
on  solid  rock,  in  the  bed  of  the  river,  are  4^,  and  the 
arches  resting  thereon  1 1  feet  High.     On  the  north  wall, 
which  is  of  sufficient  thickness  for  the  towing  path,  is 


CANAL    TIOUTE — ROCHESTER. 


247 


iscovered  at 
low. 

has  been  re- 
id  of  a  little 
having  been 
iate  vicinity 
ntario,  with 
wn,  enables 
New- York, 
astern  lakes ; 
lich  it  enjoys 
become  one 
r  of  the  state. 
5  taken  in  the 
ease  of  more 
i  the  number 
leen  built  the 
3  estimated  at 
2,000.      Tlie 
1  part  of  the 
mk  for  half  a 
>  village,  in  a 
0,000.     This 
and  from  the 
the  western 
ilt  on  eleven 
)0  feet  chord, 
lis  and  other 
ih  are  placed 
■■  4kj  and  ths 
e  north  wall, 
A'ing  path,  is 


an  iron  railing ;  and  at  the  west  end,  the  whole  is  ter- 
minated by  a  highway  and  towing  path  bridge,  of  the 
most  solid  and  elegant  workmanship.  The  canal  is 
supplied  by  a  navigable  feeder  from  tlic  Genesee, 
through  which  boats  m?y  enter  and  ascend  the  river 
from  80  to  90  miles.  The  height  of  the  canal  at  Roch- 
ester above  the  tide  waters  of  the  Hudson  is  501  feet ; 
above  Lake  Ontario,  270  feet  j  and  below  Lake  Erie 
64  feet. 

Among  the  public  buildings  in  the  village,  are  a  court 
house,  gaol,  11  churches,  2  markets,  2  banks  and  a 
museum,  together  with  two  valuable  institutioria,  the 
Franklin  Institute  and  Atheneum.  The  Globe  build- 
ings, a  majestic  pile,  built  of  che  most  durable  materi- 
als, and  rising  from  the  wuter's  edge,  are  5  stories,  ex- 
clusive of  attics,  with  between  130  and  140  apartmer  ?•. 
suitable  for  workshops,  (having  a  sufiicient  water  pow- 
er for  each,)  and  several  stores.  'I'he  principal  public 
houses  are  liie  Rochester  House,  Clinton  House,  Eagle 
Tavern,  Mansion  House  and  Arcade  House.  There  is 
also  a  daily  and  several  weekly  newspapers. 

Within  the  limits  of  the  village  are  1 1  flouring  mills, 
containing  53  run  of  stones,  capable  of  manufacturin  »• 
2,500  bushels  of  Hour  and  consuming  more  than  12,000 
bushels  of  wheat  every  24  hours.  Some  of  the  mills 
are  on  a  scale  of  magnitude  perhaps  not  equalled  in  the 
world.  One  of  them  contains  more  than  four  acres  of 
flooring,  and  all  are  considered  unrivalled  in  the  perfec- 
tion of  their  machinery.  The  immense  water  power  at 
this  place  opens  a  wonderful  field  for  labor  saving  ma- 
chinery, among  which  are  many  ingenious  operations, 

w 


r 


I 


i 


2IS 


CAN  M    iu)rTK--no»'Hr,HTr,n. 


w<  II  W(  ;tliy  the  inH|>rctioii  ol*  the  curioUB  in  those  iiiut 
tors. 

The  Aiu'ADR  it*  H)0  l'(M't  in  tVonl,  135  (rot  in  (h'ptli, 
Htul  4  HtoiioB  hiij^h,  ox(insiv(^  of  the?  attic  aiul  Imscincnl. 
It  has  0  stores  in  front,  vvitli  >i  hir^e  opening  for  n  pns- 
pnge  to  the  Jh'cmfr,  wliere  tlie  p(»Bt  ofTiee,  nthenenin, 
areade  house,  and  a  Viiriety  of  ofVie<^H  are  loeated.  From 
the  c<Mitre  arineB  an  ohHervatory  in  tlie  form  of  a  Chi- 
nese  PaooJa,  whieh  oveHoolvS  the  Hurrounchnp;  eonnli\ , 
and  in  chmr  weather  the  hike  can  he  neen  hke  a  strip 
of  hhie  elo»id  in  tlie  horizon.  The  front  of  tliis  edifio 
is  stnecoed,  in  imitation  of  niarhie,  except  the  fust  sto- 
ry, which  is  of  the  Cswe'jo  red  free  stone. 

The  jxfoh>irieal  strijctnre  of  this  repon  can  he  easily 
traced,  and  is  heantifnlly  ilhistrated  in  the  l>anks  of  Ihc 
river,  whidi  are  from  100  to  200  feet  in  hei<rht,  with  n 
descent  of  270  feet  to  the  lake.  At  Cartliape,  two  milrs 
helow,  arc  a  great  variety  of  petrifactions,  whicli  hnvo 
been  hlasted  from  the  rocks  in  formitig  a  canal  for  mill 
privileges.  Seven  miles  from  Rochester,  a  part  of  the 
way  on  tlie  ridjjo  road,  on  the  east  side  of  the  river,  is 
Irondoipioit  hay,  with  a  hi«;h  sand  ridji^e  runninnf  across 
it,  except  ahout  two  rods,  where  there  is  a  channel ; 
the  shore  is  fine  and  sandy,  ajul  (>(|uals  any  in  America 
for  hatliing.  The  hay  is  also  cchhrated  for  fishing  ami 
fowlino^. 

Stagks  leave  Rochester  dailv,  hv  wav  of  Palinvia. 
Weed's  Port,  Syracuse,  Cherry  Valh^y  and  Schohaiir 
for  Albanyy  217  miles;  and  by  way  of  Caiuindaiirna, 
Geneva,  Auburn,  Skancateles,  (  hionda^a,  Utica,  Lilll* 
Falls  and  Schenectady,  for  Albany^  237  miles.  The) 
niso  leave  daily,  by  way  of  Lewiston  (passiii^'  over  the 


[if  ^^^SSloi..^ 


tANAl,    UOI'TK 


(  AUT»IA(.I',, 


2iy 


III  (liofio  mat 

rrt  in  doplh, 
111(1  licisoinnil 
iii^  (or  a  pas 
•o,  ntlionruiii, 
K'atod.  From 
)riTi  of  a  Clij. 
(liiip  country; 
on  liko  a  Ptri|/ 
of  thif  (Mlilin 
>t  th(^  liixt.  s(() 

n  can  he  oasily 
\r  hanks  of  the 

lioifrlil,  with  n 

lajro,  two  milrs 

ns,  which  liavo 

a  canal  for  mill 

M*,  a  part  of  the 

of  llio  river,  is 

runnincr  across 
^  is  a  chainicl ; 
any  in  vVinorici 
(1  for  fishing  and 

av  of  Pahnvrn, 
:  and  Schohanr 
f  CanamlaiL'iia, 
aa,  Utica,  Liiilc 
\7  miles.  Tlic\ 
[>assia;i  ovei'  ui* 


n.l^ro  rou(U  nn<l  N.airara  KuIIh,  for  l{H(j'alo,  MM  mihs,* 
a.Ml  hv  way  of  CahiliMi.a,  Le  Hoy  and  lialuvia,  lor 
liiijf.ilo^  77  mih'M. 

I»ACKKT  r.oATsalsol.'avr  lloch.'ster  .-very  morning 
for  Ihdlldo  and  for  Alhany. 

\  Stkam  Doat  constantly  plir-H  dnrinfr  (he  flummor 
HcaHon  hctween  Lewiston  on  the  Nia^^vra  and  <  )«dcnH- 
hniMrh  on  tho  St.  Lawrence  riv«!r,  touching  at  llanford'a 
Lan«hn^S  3  mih's  from  RocheHt«M-,  hy  whi(;h  paHsa^rcs 
may  he  had  to  the  Falln  or  Montreal  once  a  week. 
\Tliis  roulc  in  noticed  more  fully  under  Ike  head  of  Lake 

OiJario.] 

t^efore  leaviiifr  Roch(!Hter,  (unless  the  ridfie  road  or 
steam  lioat  route  should  he  taken,)  tlie  traveller  will 
fnul  it  an  ohject  of  int(;rest  to  visit 

Carthage,  2  mih-s  down  the  (Icncsoe  river.  This 
villa<re  derived  its  conseouence  from  an  elegant  hridge, 
whieli,  durinir  its  existence,  fornu^d  the  most  eligihlo 
route  to  th<>  wcjstern  part  of  the  state.  The  hridg(^  was 
erecti'd  across  the  riv«'r  just  helow  the  hasin  of  the 
falls,  which  are  70  f(!et.  It  consisted  of  a  single  arch, 
whoscv  chord  measured  300  feet.  The  distance  from 
the  centre  to  the  river  was  250  feet.  This  stupendous 
fahric  stood  a  short  time  after  its  construction,  and  at 
length  fell  und(!r  the  pressure  of  its  own  weight.     One 


+  The  ridge  road  commences  '2^  niih'S  from  Roches- 
ter, over  vvliich  lh(>  following  an;  the  intervening  dis- 
tances 1m1vv(mmi  that  places  and  Butfalo  :  Carthage  Falls 
2  unles,  Parma  !♦,  Clarkson  7,  iVTurray  7,  Ridgeway  15, 
I  lartland  10,  (Jamhria  12,  Lewiston  12,  Niagara  Falls 
7,  Bullklo  22. 


25(1 


CANAL    ROUTE — ALBION. 


1     '^ 


y/ 

i 


m  i 


v. 


'»■• 


if  It 


I 


;  ■ 


!■    : 


I 


of  the  abutments  is  still  standing ;  and  from  its  situation, 
visitants  may  judge  of  the  former  position  of  the  bridge, 
and  the  ahnost  impious  presumption  of  man  in  attempt" 
ing  to  overcome  height,  space,  gravity,  and  the  resist- 
less fury  of  tlio  elements.  Sloops  from  the  lake,  />  miles 
distant,  ascend  up  the  river  to  these  falls;  where  tliny 
are  laden  and  unladen  by  means  of  an  inclined  plane — 
the  descending  weight  being  made  to  raise  a  lighter 
one  by  its  superior  gravity. 

The  great  western  level  on  the  canal  commences  two 
miles  east  of  Rochester ;  from  whence  to  Lock  port,  a 
distance  of  65  miles,  there  is  no  lock.  Between  the 
two  villages,  the  route  was  orignally  through  a  wilder- 
ness.  But  new  villages  are  springing  up  on  the  banks 
of  the  canal ;  and  appearances  indicate,  that  the  forests 
on  the  whole  line  will  ere  long  give  place  to  cultivation 
and  compact  settlements. 

Spencer's  Basin,  a  small  village,  is  10  miles  from 
Rochester ;  from  thence  to  Ogden  is  2  miles,  and  to 
Adams'  Basin  3  miles. 

Brockport  is  5  miles  farther.  The  villaofe  contains 
from  100  to  150  houses  ;  and  the  number  is  rapidly  in- 
creasing. 

HoLLET,  5  miles.  A  short  distance  east  of  the  vil- 
lage is  the  Holley  Embankment  and  culvert,  over  Sandy 
creek,  elevating  the  canal  87  feet  above  the  level  of  the 
creek. 

Murray,  2  miles. 

Albion,  8  miles  :  a  flourishing  village  of  about  150 
houses. 


(ANAL    UUIT  TE— Lot  KT'ORT 


•2.11 


|i  its  situation, 

of  the  bridrrc. 

LM  in  attempt- 

md  the  rcsist- 

liike,  ry  miles 

;  where  thny 

;Unecl  plane — 

faisc  a  hghter 

mmcnccs  two 
o  Lock  port,  a 
Between  tho 
)ugh  a  wilder- 
>  on  the  banks 
hat  the  forests 
!  to  cultivation 

10  miles  from 
miles,  and  to 

illage  contains 
r  is  rapidly  in- 

!ast  of  the  vil- 
rt,  over  Sandy 
lie  level  of  the 


of  about  150 


roKTvii.LE,  1  mih'f*.  Four  niih  h  faitlu'r  in  the  town 
mI"  llidijcway,  a  public  road  piissrs  (nuht'  the  canal, 
J  brinish  ;i  bandsomf  arch  ;  on*;  mile  from  wbicb,  is  the 
viilauje  of 

Oak  Orchard,  on  tlio  bank  of  a  creek  of  that  name. 
The  canal  hero  crosses  the  creek  over  the  larffost  arch 
on  the  whole  route.  There  an?  circular  steps  leading 
to  the  bottom  ;  from  whence  is  a  foot  path  passing  un- 
derneath and  leadinir  to  the  villajxo.  As  the  boat  "waits 
for  no  man,"  passenirers  d(!sirous  of  seein<x  this  nrtifi- 
lial  work,  should  <in  ashore  before  reaehiu""  it,  and  jrain 
time  by  a  rapid  walk.  They  can  be  received  on  bojird 
airain  jit  tho  villairf%  where  the  boat  stops  to  land  and 
rf'ceive  ]>assen!iers. 

IVIkdiva,  1  mile. 

INTiuDLEroRT,  n  mib<a. 

LocKPoRT,  12  mil?s.  By  f;ir  the  most^gantic  works 
on  the  whole  line  of  the  canal  are  at  this  place.  After 
travellino  between  GO  and  70  miles  on  a  perfect  level, 
the  traveller  here  strikes  the  foot  of  the  "  Mountain 
Ridiie,"  which  is  surmounted  by  5  magnificent  locks  of 
12  feet  each,  connected  with  5  more  of  equal  dimen- 
sions for  descending — so  that  while  one  boat  is  raised 
to  an  elevation  of  60  feet,  anotlier  is  seen  sinking  into 
the  broad  basin  below.  The  locks  are  of  the  finest 
imaginable  wokmansbip,  with  stone  steps  in  the  centre 
and  on  citlicr  h,de,  guarded  with  iron  railings,  for  the 
ronvenience  and  safety  of  passengers.  Added  to  this 
stupendous  work,  an  excavation  is  continued  through 
the  movmtain  ridge,  composed  of  rock,  a  distance  of 
three  miles,  at  an  average  deptli  of  20  feet.     When 

w2 


'■  •■ii 


r 


'252 


CANAL    ROUTE — LOCKPORT. 


viewing  tins  part  of  the  canal,  we  arc  amazed  with  the 
consideration  of  what  may  be  accomplished  l)y  human 
means. 

The  village  of  Lockport  is  partly  located  on  the 
mountain  ridge,  immediately  above  the  locks,  and  partlj 
below;  and  though  "founded  on  a  rock,"  surrounded 
with  rocks,  and  with  little  or  no  soil,  it  has  already  be- 
come a  place  of  much  importance.  In  182 1 ,  there  were 
but  2  houses  in  the  place ;  now  there  are  between  4  and 
500,  and  nearly  4000  inhabitants.  The  village  also 
contains  a  bank,  and  several  commodious  public  houses. 
The  canal  here  being  on  the  highest  summit  level,  and 
supplied  with  water  from  lake  Erie,  (distant  30  miles,) 
an  abundance  is  obtained  for  hydraulic  purposes,  afford- 
ing to  the  village  a  lasting  and  permament  power  for 
mills  and  manufactories  of  various  kinds. 

In  the  excavation  throu  jjh  the  mountain,  several  min- 
erals were  discovered  ;  among  which  were  some  of  the 
finest  specimens  of  dog  tootli  spar  ever  found  in  the  U. 
States.  At  first  they  were  easily  obtained  ;  but  they 
have  lately  l)ecome  an  object  of  profit,  and  are  sold  at 
prices  corresponding  with  their  beauty. 

Seven  miles  from  Lockport,*  at  Pendleton,  the  ca- 
nal enters  the  Tonnewanta  creek,  and  continues  there- 
in 12  miles  to  its  mouth,  at  Tonawanda,  where  is  a 
dam  4ji  feet  high.     From  thence  it  is  continued  on  the 


*  Passengers  in  packets,  who  wish  to  visit  the  Fallf^, 
generally  take  a  stage  at  Lockport,  and  proceed  Hiroct- 
ly  to  Manchester  (the  American  Fall)  23  miles  distant, 
or  to  Lewiston,  7  miles  below  the  Falls ;  visiting  the 
latter  afterwtirds. 


CANAL    ROUTE — BUFFALO. 


'253 


ned  with  the 
by  human 

ited  on  the 

3,  and  partlj 

surrounded 

already  be- 

I ,  there  were 

tween  4  and 

village  also 

Liblic  houses. 

lit  level,  and 

It  30  miles,) 

3oses,  afford- 

nt  power  for 

several  min- 
B  some  of  the 
md  in  the  U. 
3d  ;  but  they 
id  are  sold  at 

2 TON,  the  ca- 
tinues  there- 
,  wiicrc  is  a 
inued  on  the 


sit  the  Falls, 

:)coed  direct- 

nilos  distant, 

visiting  the 


!)ank  of  the  Niagara  8  mile?  to  Black  Rock,  (noticed 
in  a  subsequent  pajire)  where  it  unites  with  the  harbor, 
and  from  tlicnce  on  the  bank  of  the  river  3  miles,  to 
BufTalo. 

BUFFALO 

Is  situated  at  the  outlet  of  Lake  Erie.     It  is  a  beau- 
tiful and  thriving  town,  and  with  the  advantages  of 
both  a  natural  and  artificial  navifjation,  it  is  destined  to 
become  one  of  the  most  important  places  in  the  state. 
Its  present  population  is  estimated  at  upwards  of  7000, 
and  the  number  of  buildings  at  rising  of  1000.     The 
Erie  canal  commences  in  this  village,  near  the  outlet  of 
the  Buffalo  creek,  and  passes  through  an  extensive  and 
perfectly  level  plot,  ecpiidistant  from  the  shore  of  the 
lake  and  the  high  grounds  called  the  Terrace.     From 
the  canal  are  cut,  at  very  suitable  distances,  lateral  ca- 
nals and  basins,  rendering  the  whole  of  the  luiver  toivn 
contiguous  to  water  communication.     Stores  and  ware- 
houses are  so  constructed  as  to  receive  the  boats  along 
side.     In  its  location,  Buffalo  is  in  the  midst  of  the  en- 
terprizt.  and  l)usinesr5  of  this  new  world.     All  the  man- 
ufactures and  migrating  population  from  the  north  and 
east  here  find  a  resting  place,  and  the  agricultural  pro- 
ducts of  the  ivcst,  coming   from  the  long  extended 
lakes,  here  seek  a  new  avenue  to  the  Atlantic.     The 
lower  toion  will  soon  be  spread  over  that  part  below  the 
Terrace,  where  begins  a  gentle  and  equal  rise  of  ground, 
continuing  nearly  and  perhaps  quite  two  miles,  and 
then  falls  away  to  a  perfect  level  as  far  as  the  eye  can 
roach,  bounded  only  l)y  the  horizon.     Upon  this  eleva- 
ted ground  there  is  a  charming  view  of  the  lake,  Niair- 


^i 


•254 


BUFFALO. 


!'/ 


■■>  ;.r. 


nrn  rivr,  t'le  rarjul  witli  all  itf?  l.n'anohcs,  tli(3  Buflaio 
creek,  the  town  itself,  and  the  Canada  shore  ;  a  pros- 
poet  from  which  every  one  parts  witli  reluctance.  The 
streets  are  very  broad,  and  passing  from  high  grounds 
over  the  Terrace  to  the  water,  are  intersected  with 
cross  streets.  There  are  three  public  squares  of  some 
extent,  which  add  much  to  the  beauty  of  the  tovrn. 
The  public  buildings  are  a  court-house,  situated  on  the 
higliest  part  of  Main-street,  well  proportioned  and 
handsomely  ornamented.  The  Presbyterian  meetiiio 
house,  standing  near  the  Episcopal  church  upon  a^scmi- 
circular  common  on  Main-street,  is  an  edifice  of  very 
commanding  appearance.  There  arc  many  s[)aci()UP 
hotels  for  the  accornmoflation  of  the  traveller  ;  among 
which,  the  Eagle  Tavern,  kept  by  Mr.  Rathbun,  is  con- 
sidered one  of  the  best  in  the  union. 

The  place,  (then  a  village)  was  burnt  by  the  Drilisli 
in  1314,  wlion  there  was  but  one  house  loft  standing. 
This  is  still  pointed  out  in  the  upper  part  of  the  town. 
It  was  not  until  considerable  time  had  elapsed  after  this, 
that  Buffido  began  to  be  rebuilt,  nor  until  the  canal  was 
located,  did  it  rise  with  much  promise.  It  is  now  a 
city,  having  been  incorporated  as  such  in  1832,  is  rnpid- 
ly  rising  into  iiuportanco,  and  will  become  inevitably 
the  Liverpool  of  Western  New- York.  Two  years  have 
made  more  improvements  in  that  place  than  in  any 
otlier  town  of  the  w'^st.  A  ship  canal  is  in  progress, 
80  teat  wide  and  13  feet  deep,  across  from  the  harbor, 
near  the  outb't  of  Biitralo  creek  to  the  c.uial,  a  distance 
of  al)out  700  yards,  to  be  completed  the  present  season, 
1 H33.)     Also  a  boat  canal  eommencinii  at  the  Big  Buf- 


{ 


falo  creek,  n(\ar  IVir.  Kip's  railway,  to  the  Little  Bnfialo 


i'i 


BUFFALO. 


•255 


tlie  BuHaio 
V  ;  a  pros- 
mce.  The 
[(h  grounds 
ected  with 
cs  of  sonic 
tlie  town, 
lated  on  the 
ioncd  and 
ian  mcetino; 
ipon  a^scmi- 
ifico  of  very 
ny  .•spacious 
lor  ;  among 
ibun,  is  con- 

y  the  Brilisli 
:ft  standing, 
of  the  town, 
ed  after  this, 
le  canal  was 
It  is  now  a 
?32,  is  rnpid- 
le  incvitahly 
D  years  have 
than  in  any 
in  progress, 
the  harbor, 
1,  a  distance 
sent  season, 
:he  P,ii{  Huf- 
ittle  Bullalo 


f 


creek,  a  distance  of  1,G00  feet.  Several  large  blocks  of 
lire  proof  brick  buildings  have  been  recently  erected, 
and  more  arc  in  daily  progress. 

As  this  place  was  the  theatre  of  important  events 
during  the  last  war,  the  writer  had  expected  to  find  in 
the  village  church  yard  some  monuments  to  the  memo- 
ry of  the  brave  who  fell  during  that  period.  But  he 
discovered  only  one ;  it  contained  the  following  inscrip- 
tion :  "  To  the  memory  of  Maj.  Wm.  Howe  Cuyler, 
who  was  killed  at  Black  Rock  by  a  shot  from  the 
enemy,  on  the  night  of  the  9th  October,  1812,  while 
humanely  administering  to  the  relief  of  the  wounded 
soldiers,  who  intrepidly  crossed  to  the  British  shore, 
and  brought  over  the  Adams  frigate,  that  had  been  sur- 
rendered by  Gen.  Hull,  and  the  Caledonia  ship  belong- 
ing to  the  enemy.  He  was  in  the  .35th  year  of  his  age, 
and  son  of  the  lat.e  Henry  Cuyler,  Esq.  of  Greenbush, 
in  this  state." 

The  Seneca  Village,  settled  by  a  tribe  of  about  300 
Indians,  is  from  3  to  4  miles  south  eaut  of  Buffalo,  and 
IS  usually  visited  by  strangers.  The  tribe  own  a  valu- 
able tract  of  land,  bordering  on  the  Buffalo  creek  ; 
which,  under  the  management  of  the  whites,  would  yield 
luxuriantly ;  but,  in  the  hands  of  its  present  proprietors, 
is  but  partially  improved.  Red  Jacket,  a  celebrated  chief 
of  this  nation,  died  in  1829,  at  an  advanced  a^o. 

Stages  leave  BuiTdo  every  morning  and  evening  for 
Utica — the  morning  line  going  through  by  day-light  in 
3  days— the  evening,  day  and  night,  in  two  flays.  A 
line  also  runs  daiiv  to  Rochestt^r. 


.i' 


t 


«! 


ir-ti 


"'ESTERN    LAKF.S. 


THE  WESTERN  LAKRS. 
Heforo  procnndinir  dov/n  the  Niagara  river  to  the 
Falls,  it  mpy  be  intorostino;  to  touri^is  to  oxamine  a  briot' 
description  of  the  oreat  chain  of  lakes  whose  waters 
flow  through  this  channel.  It  will  jLjive  a  more  ade- 
quate idea  of  the  vast  amount  of  waters  which  arc  uni- 
ted in  this  stupendous  river. 

Lake  Superior,  the  first  and  westernmost  of  these 
inland  seas,  lies  between  46o  and  49"  of  north  latitude, 
and  between  84'*"  and  93*^  west  longitude  from  London. 
Its  length  is  459,  and  its  average  width  109  miles. 
About  40  small  and  3  large  rivers  enter  into  this  lake, 
on  one  of  which,  just  before  its  entrance,  are  perpen- 
dicular falls  of  more  than  600  feet.  The  water  of  tho 
lake  is  remarkably  transparent,  so  much  so,  that  a  ca- 
noe over  the  depth  of  six  fathoms  seems  rather  susp(^n- 
ded  in  air  dian  resting  on  the  water.  'The  outlet  of  tiie 
lake  is  called  the  river  St.  Marie,  which  is  90  milrs 
long,  its  waters  flowing  into 

Lake  Huron.  This  lake  is  on  iH-  boundary  between 
the  U.  Stales  and  Canada,  218  jrjiirs  !ong  from  east  to 
west,  and  180  broad.  Besides  the  wat'^rs  of  Lake  Su- 
perior, it  receives  the  waters  of 

Lake  INTichigan,  whicli  is  300  miles  long  and  nbnnt 
50  nulcs  wide.-  At  ils  northwest  corner  a  larire  inlet 
opens,  called'^Greon  r.ay,  about  100  miles  lon^r,  and 
from  15  to  20  broad,  into  vvliich  Fox  river  emptirs. 
Three  miles  from  the  mouth  of  tliis  river  is  Green  Bay 
village,  a  very  considerable  settlement,  and  a  U.  States 
military  post,  called  Fort  Howaid.  The  fort  is  built  of 
fc^tore,  and  is  on  a  beautiful  i ising  ground.     Steam-boats 


;«  m 


I    ' 


'Ml. 


m^-x 


■<^*^ . 


WESTERN  LARKS. 


aoi 


er  to  the 
line  a  hriof 
ISO  waters 
Inorn  ado- 
|h  are  uni- 

t  of  these 

h  latitude, 

II  London. 

109  miles. 

tliis  lake, 

re  porpen- 

itcr  of  the 

that  a  ra- 

icr  snppcn- 

utlct  of  the 

s  90  njijes 

ry  between 
om  east  to 
*  Lake  Su- 

and  nhniit 
arijc  inlet 

lonff,  and 
r  empties, 
ilreen  Bay 

U.  States 
,  is  hinit  ()( 
cam-hoats 


'2 


from  Buffalo  visit  tliis  place  occasionally  during  the 
summer— distance  807  miles.  Besides  the  Fox,  the  St. 
Joseph  and  Grand,  two  very  important  rivers,  and  in- 
numerahle  smaller  streams,  discharge  their  waters  into 
Lake  Michigan. 

Near  the  mouth  of  the  straits  which  unite  the  Michi- 
gan with  the  Huron  lake,  and  within  the  latter,  is  the 
island  of  Michilimackinac,  commonly  called  Mackinaw, 
distinguished  as  a  military  post  durin"^  the  French  war, 
and  occtipied  as  such  by  tlie  government  of  the  U.  S. 
at  the  present  time.  The  island  is  about  9  miles  in  cir- 
cumference ;  the  village  of  Mackinaw^  which  is  on  its 
south  east  side,  is  surrounded  with  a  steep  cliff  1  30  feet 
high.  On  the  top  of  this  cliff  stands  a  fort ;  half  a  mile 
from  which,  on  another  summit,  300  fec-t  above  the  lev- 
el of  the  lake,  is  Fort  Holmes,  commanding  an  exten- 
sive prospect  of  both  lakes.  Mackinaw  is  180  miles 
NE.  of  Fort  Howard,  313  N.  ot  Detroit,  and  027  NW. 
of  Buffalo. 

The  waters  of  these  lakes  thus  congregated,  enter 
the  St.  Clair  river,  40  miles  long,  to  the  St.  Clair  Lake, 
which  i'.5  about  90  miles  in  circumference.  From  this 
lake  they  enter  the  Detroit  river,  on  which  tlie  city  of 
Detroit*  stands,  9  miles  below  the  lake,  and  communi- 
cate vvilii  Lake  Erie,  19  miles  from  Detroit. 


*  In  the  year  181 1,  a  paf^Face  frcm  Bufialo  to  Detroit, 
usually  required  from  5  to  7  days — some  were  mar'e  in 
b^ss  time,  but  in  cases  of  head  winds,  the  time  w^as  fre- 
quently longer.  These  passages  were  generally  in 
schooners,  the  most  of  which  were  comfortably  fitted  up, 
and   well  provided.     Travellers  and  merchants  were, 


253 


FROM  BUFFALO  TO  NIAGARA. 


J    Jl 


/i  ! 

■   ■ 

■i 

1  ■ 

1     ^^1 

Lake  Erie  is  on  the  boundary  line  between  the  U.S. 
and  Upper  Canada.  It  is  290  miles  long  from  SW.  to 
NE.,  and  in  the  widest  part,  63  broad.  Besides  the 
waters  of  the  upper  lakes,  it  receives  the  Cayahoga  riv- 
er and  several  tributary  streams. 

Such  are  the  sources  of  the  Niagara  ;  a  river  infe- 
rior in  splendor  to  none,  perhaps,  in  the  world. 

FROM  BUFFALO  TO  NL\GARA  FALLS, 

on  the  American  side. 

A  stage  leaves  Buffalo  every  morning  at  6  o'clock, 
passing  through  the  village  of  Black  Rock  3  miles, 
Tonawanda  9  miles,  (where  the  canal  enters  the  Ton- 
newanta  creek,)  Niagara  Falls  11  miles.  Fare  $1. 
This  line,  after  giving  passengers  an  opportunity  of 
witnessing  the  Falls  for  2  or  3  hours,  proceeds  to 
Youngstowr,  or  Fort  Niagara,  passing  through  Levv- 
iston. 

On  the  Canada  side. 

A  stage  leaves  Bufiulo,  daily,  at  8  A.  M.  passes 
through  Black  Rock  3  miles,  crosses  the  ferry  to  AVatcr- 


h  ■♦wever,  not  unfrequently,  obliged  to  M^ait  ten  days  foi 
the  appearance  of  a  vessel,  or  a  fair  wind.  Now  trips 
are  made  in  r^teamboats  in  about  40  hours,  one  leaving 
each  O'trcmity  />f  the  lake  every  day.  There  arc  six  or 
eight  first  Tdtn  :  uvimers  composing  the  line,  and  several 
others  cm  diiferei?*  parts;  of  the  lake.  In  proceeding 
from  Buffalo  to  D<  «;roit,  the  boats  land  passengers  at 
Erie,  90  milos — Grcnd  River,  60— Cleveland,  30— and 
at  Sandusky,  55 — from  whence  to  Detroit  is  71  miles- 
total  "j5  mile,  Fare,  in  cabin,  $15.  Boats  also  leave 
Bulialo  daily  for  Eric,  Tenn.  touching  at  Dunkirk  and 
Portland. 


I 


FORT  ERIE. 


256 


;n  the  U.S. 
om  SW.  to 
Besides  the 
yahoga  riv- 

a  river  infe- 
rld. 

FALLS, 

It  6  o'clock, 
>ck  3  miles, 
rs  the  Ton- 
Fare  $1. 
portunity  of 
proceeds  to 
rough  Lew- 


.  i\'l.  passes 
ry  to  Watcr- 


;  ten  days  foi 
.  Now  trips 
,  one  leaving 
ere  arc  six  or 
?,  and  several 
1  proceeding 
assengers  at 
nd,  30 — and 
is  71  miles- 
its  also  leave 
Dunkirk  and 


c  groun 


d  1; 


loo,  1  mile,  and  proceeds  to  Chipper  a  battl 
miles,  Chippewa  village  1  mile,  Niagara  Falls  2  miles. 
Fare,  including  ierriage,  55^1,12.  Stages  leave  Niagara 
at  3  P.  M.  lor  dueenston  and  Fort  George. 

A  steam-boat  leaves  Bufialo  every  morning  at  8  o'- 
clock, passing  every  other  day  around  Grand  Island, 
and  reaches  the  village  of  Chippewa  about  noon  ;  from 
whence  passengers  take  stages  for  the  Falls.  The  boat 
returns  to  Buffalo  at  7  P.  M.     Fare  each  way  $1. 

Black  Rock,  3  rnilrs  from  Buffalo,  is  a  village  of 
considerable  magnitude  on  the  west  bank  of  the  Niaga- 
ra river.     It  was  burnt  by  the  British  in  1S14  ;  but  has 
been  rebuilt,  and  is  much  increased  from  its  former  size. 
Among  its  most  prominent  buildings   is   the  private 
mansion  of  Gen.  Peter  B.  Porter,  late  secretary  of  war, 
which  has  a  very  handsome  appearance  from  the  water. 
A  pier  in  the  river,  about  2  miles  long,  aflbrds  a  harbor 
to  the  village,  and  is  used  as  a  part  of  the  grand  canal. 
The  dam,  however,  has  been  found  insufficient  to  with- 
stand the  force  of  the  current.     Repeated  injuiies  are 
sustained,  and  vessels  now  seldom  enter  the  harbor. 
The  Niagara  river  is  here  one  mile  wide,  and  is  cross- 
ed in  a  horse  boat.     Opposite  Black  Rock,  on  the  Can- 
ada side,  is  the  small  villa.n-e  of 

Waterloo  ;  a  little  south  of  which  stand  the  ruins 
of  Fort  Erie,  rendered  memorable  as  the  theatre  of 
several  severe  engagements  during  the  last  war.  The 
last  and  most  decisive  battle  fought  at  this  place,  was 
on  the  night  of  the  15th  of  August,  1814.  The  fort 
was  occupied  by  the  Americans  ;  and  its  possession 
was  considered  an  object  of  importance  to  the  Eiiti.4i. 


200 


CHIPPEWA  BATTLE  GROUND. 


r 


Taking  advantage  of  the  darkness  of  the  night,  they 
made  repeated  and  furious  assaults,  and  were  as  often 
repulsed  ;  until,  at  length,  they  succeeded,  by  superior 
force,  in  gaining  a  bastion.     After  maintaining  it  for  a 
short  time,  at  the  expense  of  many  lives,  accident  placed 
it  again  in  the  hands  of  the  Americans.     Several  car- 
tridges which  had  been  placed  in  a  stone  building  ad- 
joining  exploded,  producing  tremendous  slaughter  and 
death  air»ong  the  British.     They  soon  retreated,  leav- 
ing on  the  iicld  221  killed,  among  whom  were  Cols. 
Scott  and  Drummond,  174  wounded,  and  18G  prisoners. 
The  American  loss  was  17  killed,  56  wounded,  and  IJ 


missmg. 


This  action  was  followed  by  a  splendid  sortie  near 
the  fort  on  the  17th  of  the  following  month,  which  re- 
sulted in  a  loss  to  the  Biitish  of  nearly  1000,  including 
335  prisoners,  and  to  the  Americans  of  511  killed, 
wounded  and  missing. 

From  Waterloo  to  Chippewa  Battle  Ground  is 
15  milcs^  over  a  tolerably  good,  though  sandy  road. 

The  Battle  of  Chippewa  w^as  fought  on  the  5th  of  July, 
1814,  and  has  been  described  as  one  of  the  most  bril- 
liant spectacles   that  could   well   be  conceived.     The 
day  (says  a  writer)  was  clear  and  bright ;  and  the  plain 
such  as  might  have  been  selected  for  a  parade  or  a 
tournament ;  the  troops  on  both  sideSj  though  not  nu- 
merous, admirably  disciplined  ;  the  generals  leading  on 
their  columns  in  person  ;  the  glitter  of  the  arms  m  the 
sun,  and  the  precision  and  distinctness  of  every  move- 
ment, were  all  calculated  to  carry  the  mind  back  to 
the  scenes  of  ancient  story  or  poetry — to  the  plains  oi 
Latium  or  of  Troy,  and  all  those  recollection?  which  fill 


4\.i 


■jmm 


(  HIPPF.WA   VILLAGE. 


2G1 


night,  they 
ere  as  often 
by  superior 
ning  it  for  a 
ident  placed 
everal  car- 
building  ad- 
ughter  and 
cated,  leav- 
were  Cols. 
G  prisoners, 
ided,  and  11 

sorfiG  near 
h,  which  re- 
10,  including 

511    killed, 

Ground  is 
dy  road. 

5th  of  July, 
10  most  bril- 
ived.  The 
[id  the  plain 
)arade  or  a 
agh  not  nu- 

ieadino  on 
arms  in  the 
very  move- 
id  back  to 
le  plains  of 
=>  which  fill 


'■■i 


the  imairination  with  imaffps  of  personal  heroism  and 
romantic  valor. 

After  some  skirmishing,  the  British  Indians  were 
discovered  in  the  rear  of  the  American  camp.     Gen. 
Porter,  with  his  volunteers  and  Indians,  were  directed 
to  scour  in  the  adjoining  forest.     This  force  had  nearly 
debouched  from  the  woods  opposile  Chippewa,  when 
It  was  ascertained  that  the  whole  British  force,  under 
Gen.  Rial),  had  crossed  the  Chippewa  bridge.     Gen. 
Brown  gave  immediate  orders  to  Gen.  Scott  to  advance 
with  his  brigade,  and  to  Gen.  Ripley  to  be  in  readiness 
to  support.     In  a  few  minutes  the  British  line  was  dis- 
covered formed  and  rapidly  advancing,  their  right  on 
the  woods,  and  their  left  on  the  river.     Their  object 
was  to  gain  the  bridge  across  a  small  creek  in  front  of 
the  American  encampment,  which,  if  done,  would  have 
compelled  the  Americans  to  retire.     This  bridge,  how- 
ever, was  soon  gained  by  Gen.  Scott  and  crossed,  un- 
der a  tremendous  fire  of  the  British  artillery,  and  his 
line  formed.     The  British  orders  were  to  give  one  vol- 
ley at  a  distance,  and  immediately  charge.     But  such 
was  the  warmth  of  our  musquctry  that  they  could  not 
withstand  it,  and  were  obliged  to  retreat  before  the  ap- 
pearance of  Ripley's  brigade,  which  had  been  directed 
to  make  a  movement  through  the  woods  upon  the  ene- 
my's right  (lank.     The  British  recrossed  the  Chippewa 
bridge,  Mhich  they  broke  down  on  their  retreat,  having 
suffered  a  loss  in  killed,  wounded  and  missing,  of  514. 
The  American  loss  was  328. 

Chippewa  Village  is  one  mile  north  of  the  battle 
ground.  It  contains  a  small  cluster  of  buildings  and  a 
R'w  mills  situate  on  the  Chippewa  creek,  wh'ch  runs 


'-   'I 


•4i' 


i     i 


iiii 


1 


2G2 


LUIDCEWATEn. 


tiirouirh   the  village.      Tlie   slcam-boat  from   Bufialo 
lands  passengers  at  this  place.*     One  mile  farther  is 

Bridgewatf.r  or  Luvdy's  Lane,  celebrated  as  tho 
ground  on  which  an  important  battle  was  fought,  2U 
dax^s  after  the  battle  of  Chippewa.  The  scene  of  ac- 
tion  was  near  the  mi^hly  cataract  of  Niagara,  within 
the  Pound  of  its  thunders,  and  was,  in  proportion  to  tho 
numbers  enirafred,  the  most  sanguinary,  and  decidedly 
the  best  fought  of  any  action  which  ever  took  place  on 
the  American  continent.  The  following  letter,  written 
by  a  surgeon  of  one  of  the  regiments,  the  day  after  the 
engagement,  contains  many  interesting  particulars  : 

"  In  the  afternoon  the  enemy  advanced  towards 
Chippewa  with  a  powerful  force.  At  6  o'clock  Gen. 
Scott  was  ordered  to  advance  with  his  brigade  and  at- 
tack them.  He  was  soon  reinforced  by  General  Rip- 
ley's  brigade  ;  they  met  the  enemy  below  the  falls, 
They  had  selected  their  ground  for  the  night,  intend- 
ing to  attack  our  camp  before  day-hght.  The  action 
began  just  before  7,  and  an  uninterrupted  stream  of 
musketry  continued  till  half  past  8,  when  there  was 
some  cessation,  the  British  falling  back.  It  soon  be- 
gan again  with  some  artillery,  which,  with  slight  inter- 
ruptions, continued  till  half  past  10,  when  there  was  a 
charge,  and  a  tremendous  stream  of  fire  closed  the  con- 
flict. Both  armies  fought  with  a  desperation  bordering 
on  madness  ;  neither  would  yield  the  palm,  but  each 
retired  a   short    distance,   wearied   out   with   fatigue. 


*  A  stearn-boat  also  runs  from  this  place  on  the  Can- 
ada side  of  Lake  Erie,  to  Detroit. 


1 


dta0tm 


M'X 


ri 


from   Buffalo 
farther  is 
brated  as  the 
[as  fought,  20 
scene  of  ar- 
ii^ara,  within 
|portion  to  the 
lid  drcidcdiy 
took  plnco  oil 
cttcr,  \A  rittcn 
day  after  the 
articulars  : 
iced   towards 
!  o'clock  Gen. 
gade  and  at- 
General  Rip. 
low  the  falJs. 
night,  intend- 
.     The  action 
:ed  stream  of 
en  there  was 
It  soon  be- 
h  shght  inter- 
ti  there  was  a 
osed  the  con- 
ion  hordering 
dm,  but  each 
.\'ith    fatigue. 


(  on  the  Can- 


i 


BRIDGEWATER. 


•203 


Such  a  constant  and  destructive  fire  was  never  before 
sustained  by  American  troops  witliout  falling  back. 

"  The  enemy  had  collected  ihcir  whole  force  in  the 
peninsula,  and  were   reinforced  by  troops  from  Lord 
Wellington's  army,  just  landed  from   Kingston.     F'or 
two  hours  the  two  hostile  lines  wore  within  20  yards  of 
each  other,  tind  so  frequently  intermingled,  that  often 
an  officer  would  order  an  enemy's  platoon.     The  moon 
shone  bright ;  but  part  of  our  men  being  dressed  like 
the  Glcngarian  regiment  caused  the  deception.     Tlicy 
frequently   charged,  and   were   as  often  driven   back. 
Our  regiment,  under  Colonel  Miller,  was  ordered  to 
storm  the  British  battery.     We  charged,  and  took  eve- 
ry piece  of  the  enemy's  cannon.     We  kept  possession 
of  the  ground  and  cannon  until  12  o'clock  at  night, 
when  we  all  fell  back  more  than  2  miles.     This  was 
done  to  secure  our  camp,  which  might  otherwise  have 
been  attacked  in  the  rear.     Our  horses  being  most  of 
them  killed,  and  there  being  no  ropes  to  the  pieces,  we 
got  off  but  two  or  three.     The  men  were  so  excessive- 
ly fatigued  they  could  not  drag  them.     We  lost  one 
howitzer  ;  the  horses  being  on  full  gallop  towards  the 
enemy  to  attack  them,  the  riders  were  shot  off  and  the 
horses  ran  through  the  enemy's  line.     We  lost  one 
piece  of  cannon,  which  was  too  much  advanced,  every 
man  being  shot  that  had  charge  of  it  but  two.     Seve- 
ral of  our  caissons  were  blown  up  by  their  rockets, 
which  did  some  injury,  and  deprived  our  cannon  of 
ammunition.     The  lines  were  so  near  that  cannon 
could  not  be  used  with  advantage." 

The  British  loss  in  killed,  wounded  and  prisoners 
was  878  ;  and  the  American  loss  800. 

x2 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


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11.25 


U    11.6 


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%^  ^ 


Photographic 

Sdences 

Corporation 


23  WEST  MAIN  STRiET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  14580 

(716)  873  4S03 


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2G4 


NIAGARA  FALLS. 


,1 


The  road  to  the  fulls  passes  directly  over  the  hill 
where  the  British  artillery  was  posted  at  the  time 
Scott's  bri«;a<le  commenced  the  action  ;  and  the  houses 
m  the  villa;5e  of  Bridgewater — the  trees  and  fences  in 
the  vicinity,  still  retain  marks  of  the  combat.  Many 
graves  are  seen  upon  the  hill ;  among  others,  that  of 
Capt.  Hull,  son  of  the  late  Gen.  Hull,  who  distinguish- 
ed himself  and  fell  in  this  action.  Most  of  the  slain 
were  collected  and  burned  upon  the  battle  ground  ;  on 
which  spot  it  is  in  contemplation  to  erect  a  church. 

Burning  Spring. 

About  half  a  mile  north  of  Lundy's  Lane,  and  within 
a  few  feet  of  the  rapids  in  the  Niagara  river,  is  a  Burn- 
ing Spring.  The  water  is  warm  and  surcharged  with 
sulphuretted  hydrogen  gas.  The  water  rises  in  a  bar- 
rel, which  is  covered,  and  the  gas  escapes  through  a 
tube.  On  applying  a  candle  to  the  tube,  the  gas  takes 
fire,  and  burns  with  a  briUiant  flame  until  blown  out ; 
and  on  closing  the  building  for  .'i  short  time  iu  which 
the  spring  is  contained,  and  afterwards  entering  it  with 
a  lighted  candle,  an  explosion  may  be  produced.  A 
small  fee  for  the  exhibition  is  required  by  the  keeper  of 
the  spring. 

Half  a  mile  from  the  Burning  Spring  are  the  cele- 
brated 

NIAGARA  FALLS. 

They  are  situated  on  the  Niagara  river,  which 
unites  the  waters  of  Lake  Erie  and  the  upper  lakes 
with  Lake  Ontario  and  the  St.  Lawrence.  The  river  is 
35  miles  in  length,  and  from  half  a  mile  to  5  or  6  miles  in 
width.     The  banks  of  the  river  vary  in  their  height 


nia(;aha  pai.ls. 


9G5 


on 


al)ove  the  Falln,  from  4  to  100  feet.  Iniinediately  be- 
low the  Falls,  the  preci})ic<»  is  not  Irss  than  300  feet, 
and  from  thence  to  Lake  Ontario  it  "[radually  diminishes 
to  the  height  of  25  or  30  foet.  The  Niagara  river  con- 
tains a  number  of  islands,  tho  principal  of  which  is 
Grand  Islan<l,  which  was  ceded  to  the  state  of  New- 
York  by  the  Seneca  nation  of  Indians,  in  1815.  For 
the  grant  the  state  paid  $1000  down,  and  secured  an 
annuity  of  $500.  This  i.-land  is  12  miles  long,  and 
from  2  to  7  broad. 

The  Falls  are  situated  brlow  Grand  Island,  about  20 
miles  distant  from  Lake  Erie,  and  14  from  Lake  Onta- 
rio.    At  Chippewa  creek,  2  miles  above  the  Falls,  the 
width  of  the  river  is  nearly  2  miles,  and  its  current  ex- 
tremely rapid.     From  thence  to  the  Falls  it  gradually 
narrows  to  about  1  mile  in  width.     The  descent  of  the 
rapids  has  been  estimated  at  58  feet.   The  course  of  the 
river  above  the  Falls  is  north-westwardly,  and  below  it 
turn?  abruptly  to  the  northeast,  flowing  about  a  mile 
and  a  half,  when  it  assumes  a  northern   direction  to 
Lake  Ontario.     The  cataract  pours  over  a  summit  in 
the  form  of  a  crescent,  extending  some  distance  up  the 
stream.     The  sheet  of  water  is  separated  by  Goat  Isl- 
and, leaving  the  graod  fall  on  the  Canada  side  about 
600  yards  wide,  and  the  high  fall  on  the  American  side 
about  300.     The  fall  on  the  American  side  drops  al- 
most perpendicularly  to  the  distance  of  1G4  feet.     The 
grand  or  horse -shoe  fall,  on  the  Canada  side,  descends 
to  the  river  below  in  the  form  of  a  curve,  158  feet,  pro- 
jecting about  50  feet  from  the  base.   The  whole  height, 
including  the  descent  of  the  rapids  above,  is  216  feet. 


266 


NIAGARA  FALLS. 


I 


vl 


1 

I 


0)1  the  Canada  side^ 

The  view  from  the  table  rock,  has  been  generally 
considered  preferable ;  but  this  point  must  be  decided 
by  the  different  tastes  of  visitors.  The  table  rock  pro- 
jects about  50  feet,  and  between  it  and  the  Falls  an  ir- 
regular arch  is  formed,  which  extends  under  the  pitch, 
almost  without  interruption,  to  the  island.  The  de- 
scent from  the  table  rock  is  by  means  of  a  spiral 
stair-way,  which  is  enclosed.  Visitants  desirous  of 
passing  in  the  rear  of  the  great  sheet  of  water,  are  sup- 
plied by  the  keeper  of  the  stairs  with  dresses  for  tliat 
purpose,  and  with  a  guide.  On  reaching  the  bottom 
a  rough  path  winds  along  the  foot  of  the  precipice  and 
leads  under  the  excavated  bank,  which,  in  one  place, 
overhangs  about  40  feet.  The  entrance  into  the  tre- 
mendous cavern  behind  the  falling  sheet  should  never 
be  attempted  by  persons  of  weak  nerves.  The  humid- 
ity of  the  atmosphere,  which,  at  times,  almost  prevents 
respiration  ;  the  deafenmg  roar  of  the  foaming  torrent, 
and  the  sombre  appearance  of  surrounding  objects,  is 
oftentimes  calculated  to  unnerve  the  stoutest  frame. 
The  farthest  distance  that  can  be  approached,  is  to 
what  is  called  Terminatimi  Rocky  153  feet  from  the  com- 
mencement of  the  volume  of  water  at  Table  Rock. 
Few,  however,  have  the  courage  tc  proceed  that  dis- 
tance ;  and  seldom  go  farther  than  100  feet. 

A  large  crack  in  the  table  rock,  which  has  increased 
annually  for  some  years,  renders  it  very  certain  that  a 
considerable  proportion  will  ere  long  fall  into  the  abyss 
below.  The  part  thus  cracked  is  nearly  50  feet  in 
width,  and  might  be  blasted  off  without  difficulty.  The 
hciifht  of  this  rock  has  been  ascertained  to  be  163  feet ; 


NIAGAR4  FALLS. 


267 


while  that  of  the  Fulls,  raeaduring  from  th«  bridge 
near  the  terrapin  rocks,  has  proveu  to  be  158  feet  4 
inches. 

The  Pavilion,  kept  by  Mr.  Forsyth,  on  the  Canada 
side,  is  on  a  lofty  eminence  above  the  Falls  ;  affording 
from  its  piazzas  and  roof  a  boantiful  prospect  of  the 
surrounding  scenery.  It  is  a  handsomely  constructed 
building,  and  can  accommodate  from  100  to  150  guests. 
Among  the  improvements  lately  made  by  Mr.  Forsyth, 
is  a  new  platform  along  what  is  called  the  upper  bank, 
between  his  house  and  the  river,  giving  an  easy  descent 
to  the  Table  Rock,  and  also  a  new  stair  case  from  the 
rock  to  the  bank  below,  affording  a  pleasant  and  safe 
means  of  obtaining  one  of  the  best  views  of  the  Falls. 
He  allows  no  charge  to  be  exacted  for  descending  this 
stair  case,  and  provides  guides  and  attendants  for  those 
who  wish  to  pass  under  the  falling  sheet  of  water. 

From  the  Table  Rock  the  traveller  passes  by  the 
museum  along  the  wooded  bank  of  the  river,  until  he 
arrives  at  ♦he  road  leading  down  to  the  Ferry  House, 
half  a  mile  below  the  Horse  Shoe  Fall.  At  this  point 
of  the  road  he  obtains  a  full  view  of  the  plot  designed 
for  the  village  of  "  Clifton."  When  the  "  Crescent" 
shall  be  occupied  by  tasteful  cottages,  and  a  little 
shrubbery  added  to  the  beautiful  trees  and  plants  which 
grow  luxuriantly  at  present  along  its  front,  there  will 
be  few  retreats  more  desirable,  more  picturesque,  or 
healthful,  as  a  summer  residence,  than  this  spot.  The 
property,  consisting  of  forty  acres  of  land,  was  purchas- 
ed in  1831  by  Capt.  Creighton,an  English  officer,  who 
is  indefatigable  in  ornamenting  the  ground,  without  al- 
lowing his  improvements  to  interfere  with  the  grandeur 


I 


268 


NIAGARA    I  AM.1. 


A  large 


and  magniliccncc  of  the  aurrounding  scenery 
stone  building  has  also  been  recently  erected  for  a  pub- 
lic house,  at  the  commencement  of  the  ferry  road  ;  from 
whence  a  splendid  view  of  both  falls,  the  river,  islands, 
&c.  may  be  had.  Row  boats  are  continually  crossing 
the  river  from  the  termination  of  this  road.  The  rapid- 
ity of  the  current,  the  numerous  eddies,  and  the  agitated 
«»ppearance  of  the  water,  are  calculated  to  impress  a 
stranger  with  an  idea  that  a  passage  is  hazardous.  But 
we  believe  few  if  any  accidents  have  ever  happened. 
The  boatmen  are  skilful,  and  the  crossing  is  generally 
effected  in  about  15  minutes. 

The  Falls  on  the  Jlmerican  side^ 

Though  less  gigantic,  are  nevertheless  beautiful ; 
and  would  alone  be  considered  one  of  the  greatest  nat- 
ural curiosities  in  the  world.  A  flight  of  stairs  has  been 
constructed  from  the  bank  a  few  rods  below  the  falls  to 
the  bottom.  In  consequence  of  a  rocky  barrier  in  front 
of  the  falling  sheet,  it  can  be  approached  to  within  a 
few  feet ;  though  not  without  encountering  a  plentiful 
shower  of  the  spray.  About  a  quarter  of  a  mile  above 
the  fall,  a  bridge  has  been  constructed  from  the  shore 
to  Bath  Island  ;  which  is  connected  by  means  of  anoth- 
er bridge  with  Goat  Island.  The  sensation  in  crof'sing 
these  bridges,  and  particularly  the  first,*  over  the  tre- 


*  Gen.  Peter  B.  Porter,  of  Black  Rock,  to  whom  the 
public  are  indebted  for  the  construction  of  this  bridge, 
informed  me  that  its  erection  was  not  rflectcd  without 
considerable  danger.  Two  lar^e  trees,  hewed  to  cor- 
respond with  their  shape,  we*-*^  first  constructed   into  a 


-  ^ 


I  ^. 


large 
a  pub- 
,  ftom 
Islands, 
rossinor 

rapid- 

jgitated 

)ress  a 

But 

)prncd. 

nerally 


utifui ; 
Jst  nat- 
is  been 
'falls  to 
n  front 
ithin  a 
entifui 
above 
shore 
inoth- 

le  tre- 


m  the 
idge, 
thoiit 
>  cor- 
nto  a 


I  }' 


^1' 


NIAGARA   rALI.S. 


869 


mnndou?  rapids  beneath,  is  calculated  to  alarm  the 
traveller  for  his  safety,  and  hasten  him  in  his  excursion 
to  the  Island.  On  Bath  Island,  mills  have  been  erect- 
ed, contiguous  to  what  is  termed  the  race-woi/,  which 
divides  Bath  from  Goat  Island.  The  latter,  which  is 
.330  yards  broad,  is  principally  a  wilderness.  On  the 
southern  and  western  banks  an  extensive  view  is  had 
of  the  rapids  above  and  of  the  grand  fall  on  the  Canada 
side.  But  the  best  view  of  the  latter  is  obtained  from  a 
small  bridge  which  has  been  erected  from  the  island  to 
the  Terrapin  rocksy  adjoining  the  falls,  300  feet  from  the 
shore.  From  the  end  of  this  bridge,  which  is  place'  on 
the  very  ver^e  o(  the  precipice,  the  frightful  abyss,  cov- 
ered with  a  foam  of  snowy  whiteness,  is  seen  beneath. 
No  one  can  witness  it  at  first,  without  involuntarily 
shrinking  back.  A  foar  that  the  frail  structure  on  which 
he  stands  may  possibly  give  way,  induces  him  to  re- 
trace his  ste[)s  with  as  little  delay  as  practicable  ;  and 


temporary  bridrr'^,  the  huts  fastened  to  the  shore,  with 
tlin  lighte^st  ends  projecting  over  the  rapids.  At  the 
extremity  of  tbf^  projection,  a  small  abutment  of  stone 
was  at  first  placed  in  the  river,  and  when  this  became 
secure,  logs  were  sunk  around  it,  locked  in  such  a 
manner  a^  to  form  a  frame,  whirh  was  filled  with  stone. 
A  bridge  was  then  made  to  this  abutment,  the  tempora- 
ry bridge  shoved  forward,  and  another  abutment  formed, 
until  the  whole  was  completed.  One  man  fell  into  the 
rapids  during  the  work.  At  first,  owing  to  the  velocity 
with  which  he  was  carried  forward,  he  was  unable  to 
hold  upon  the  projecting  rocks ;  but  through  great  bod- 
ily exertions  to  lesaen  the  motion,  by  swimming  against 
the  current,  he  w«3  enabled  to  seize  upon  a  rock,  from 
which  he  was  taken  by  means  of  a  rope. 


> 

I 


I 


270 


MAT.  ATA    TAI  I  •«. 


it  ip  not  until  after  ropcatod  \  imiIh,  timl  lln«  alarm  whol- 
ly suhmdcfl. 

At  tho  foot  of  Irin  Islniid  (jidjoininj;  (lojit  Island)  ia 
what  ifl  called  the  Diddle  slair-iraij,  n»M*l<'d  l»y  N.  l»nv 
DLE,  Esq.  pi-opidrnt  of  the  U.  S.  Haidt.  M'his  aH'ords 
n  safe  and  ota^y  papsa^fl  to  a  position  more  favoraMo 
than  nny  other  for  viewinjj  thi«  shiprndmis  work  of 
nature.  Tho  rlcvntion  of  tho  island  nhovn  tho  margin 
of  tho  rivor  or  bnsin  hrlow,  is  ISfi  fert.  Tho  drsicnt  of 
tho  first  40  feet  is  en'octed  hy  a  lliohl  of  Hleps,  rofuinen- 
cinff  in  tho  interior  of  the  islnn<l,  and  descentlinj;  on  an 
inclined  plane  to  the  brow  of  tlu'  pcrpeiidienlar  work, 
thronjih  a  dupway  walled  on  hoth  sides  ;  the  st^cond 
flijjht  is  by  a  spiral  stair  way  of  88  steps,  down  a  per- 
pendicular buildin/i?  in  the  shape  of  a  hexi^on,  restinjjf 
on  a  firm  foundation — the  whole  handsomely  enclosed. 
From  the  foot  of  this  buil«lini>:  to  the  river  below,  (about 
80  feet)  are  tlireo  paths  formed  of  stone  steps,  and  lead- 
inij  to  tho  water  in  different  directions.* 

The  amount  of  water  which  passes  over  the  respec- 
tive falls,  has  been  estimated  by  Dr.  Dwi^xht  at  nmre 
than  100  millions  of  tons  an  hour.  No  method  can  bo 
devised  for  ascertaining  the  depth  at  the  principal  fall  ; 
but  it  is  not  improbable  that  it  may  bo  G  or  800  feet ;  as 
the  depth  of  the  stream  halfn  mile  below  m-  from  2j0  to 
260  feet. 


*  It  was  from  ladders  erected  at  this  place  that  the 
celebrated  Sam  Patch  made  a  desct'iit  of  1  18  feet  into 
the  water  below  a  short  time  picvious  to  his  fatal  leap 
at  Rochester  in  the  fall  of  IS2U. 


NIAGAHA     KAM.9. 


271 


To  a  Htrmi«,'<'r  who  hIiuII  ixaininc  \ho  mpid.s  uhove 
tli(!  liill.-t,  it  will  Hvvin  incrcdiliic  lliut  (Joiit  I.sluiid  HJioiild 
C'vor  liavo  been  viHitcMl  prcviouH  to  tlie  <onstruction  of 
tlio  hridjrc.  Y<'t  hh  early  as  I7<;ri,+  H<!V(;ral  French  oH'i- 
cers  were  conveyed  1(»  it  hy  ItidiaiiH  incunoea,  care- 
fully dropping  down  the  river;  and  it  is  but  a  few 
years  since  Gen.  Porter,  of  Black  Rock,  with  some  oth- 
er gentlemen,  also  made  a  trip  to  the  Island  in  a  boat. 
They  found  but  little  dilHculty  in  descending  ;  but  their 
return  was  difficult  and  hazardous.  It  was  effected  by 
shoving  the  l>oat  with  aetting  poles  up  the  most  shal- 
low part  of  the  (current,  for  half  a  mile,  before  making 
for  the  shore. 

F'allifig  into  the  current  within  a  mile  of  the  falls,  in 
considered  fatal.  Several  accidents  of  this  kind  have 
happened;  and  no  one,  (save  in  the  instance  mention- 
ed in  a  preceding  page,)  has  ever  reached  the  shore. 
Many  bodies  have  been  found  below  the  falls — those 
that  have  fallen  in  the  centre  of  the  stream,  without 
any  external  marks  of  injury ;  and  those  that  have 
fallen  near  the  shore,  much  lacerated  and  disfigured. 
The  latter  has  probably  been  occasioned  by  coming  in 
contact  with  rocks  in  shallow  water,  before  reaching 
the  cataract.  It  is  but  a  few  years  since  an  Indian, 
partially  intoxicated,  in  attempting  to  cross  the  river 
near  Chippewa,  was  forced  near  the  rapids ;  when 
finding  all  efforts  to  regain  the  shore  unavaihng,  he  lay 
down  in  his  canoe,  and  was  soon  plunged  into  the 


*  Trees  marked  1765  and  1769,  are  still  to  be  seen  on 
thp  island. 


1 


272 


WP.M.AVn    CAN  A  I. 


tremendous  vortex  below.     lie  was  never  seen  art«»r- 
wardfl. 

There  are  two  largo  boarding  cstabliahmcnts  on  the 
American  side,  in  what  is  rallod  tlin  villa;re  of  Man- 
chester. The  Eaorle  Tavern  kept  by  Gen.  Whitney,  in 
the  oldest  and  ia  entitled  to  a  full  share  of  patronage. 
The  other  has  been  reecnlly  erected,  and  is  a  handsome 
buildine,  with  pleasant  and  airy  npartnirnts.  The  vil- 
laji^e  was  burnt  by  the  British  in  1813;  but  it  has  been 
rebuilt,  and  though  small,  is  larger  than  it  was  previous 
to  that  event. 

In  giving  a  general  description  of  the  Falls,  we  have, 
in  crossing  to  the  American  side,  diverged  from  our 
proposed  route.  While  on  the  Canada  shore,  it  is  rr- 
commended  to  tourists  to  viait  the  Deep  Cut  on  the 
Welland  canal,  eight  miles  west  of  the  Falls  ;  return  ; 
proceed  down  the  Niagara  river  through  Queenston  to 
Fort  George  or  Newark  ;  cross  over  to  Fort  Niagara  or 
Youngstown,  and  proceed  up  the  river,  through  Lew- 
iston  to  Manchester.  For  a  short  excursion,  there  are 
many  objects  of  attraction  on  this  route,  which  are  no- 
ticed hereafter. 

The  Welland  Canal  unites  the  waters  of  Lake 
Erie  and  Ontario,  and  is  constructed  for  sloops  of  125 
tons  burthen.  The  canal  commences  at  Port  Mait- 
land,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Grand  river  on  Lake  Erie,  40 
miles  west  of  Buffalo,  and  follows  the  channel  of  that 
stream  nearly  a  mile  and  a  half,  and  thence  up  Broad 
creek  nearly  a  mile,  where  the  artificial  channel  com- 
mences by  a  cut  of  10  miles  through  a  marsh.  It  then 
proceeds  down  mill  creek  2J  miles  until  it  intersects 
the  Welland  river,  m.o  which  it  descei-'ds  by  a  lock  of 


WKLI.AND    CANAL. 


273 


t'jglil  ft'ct  lift  ;  ilience  a  towing  path  is  constructed 
along  the  hanks  10  miles — the  marsh  excavation  from 
10  to  IG  feet.  From  Welland  river  the  canal  runs  in  a 
northerly  direction  winding  up  a  ravine  GO  chains,  hav- 
ing 8  or  10  fofit  cutting;  where  commences  the  deep 
cutting  or  dividing  ridgo,  an  almost  abrupt  height  of  27 
feet  above  the  canal  bottom.  It  thence  runs  gradu.illy 
to  56  feet  G  inches  in  a  distance  of  100  chains  ;  thenca 
descends  to  30  feet  in  28  chains,  which  as  abruptly 
breaks  off  in  another  ravine;  whole  distance  through 
the  deep  cut  1  mile  54  chains ;  average  depth  44  feet. 
To  the  depth  of  from  12  to  18  feet  from  the  surface,  it 
is  a  compound  of  clay,  mixed  with  sand,  and  below  thii 
a  tenacious  blue  clay.  From  the  termination  of  the 
deep  cut  to  that  part  where  the  mountain  descends,  is 
a  distance  of  4  miles  and  23  chains,  to  lock  No.  1  as  it 
it  is  called,  although  it  is  properly  lock  No.  2.  From 
lock  No.  1  the  canal  continues  in  a  ravine  53  chains, 
gradually  descending  by  4  locks  of  22  feet  width  ;  and 
thence  for  1  mile  and  55  chains  it  winds  around  the 
brow  of  a  hill.  There  are  17  locks  in  this  distance, 
and  60,000  yards  of  rock  excavation.  From  this  place 
the  canal  enters  another  ravine  to  St.  Catharine's,  a 
distance  of  2^  miles,  in  which  there  are  12  locks.  This 
may  be  termed  the  mountain  descent,  as  in  a  distance 
of  4  miles  and  72^  chains  from  lock  No.  1,  there  are 
32  locks,  with  a  declination  of  322  Ceet,  22  feet  wide 
and  100  feet  in  the  pool.  From  this  to  lake  Ontario,  a 
distance  of  5  miles,  the  canal  is  mostly  in  the  bed  of 
the  Twelve  Mile  creek.  There  are  three  locks  in  this 
section,  including  the  one  at  the  harbor,  each  32  feet 


T  I 


f 


til ' 


I  , 


874 


BATTI-E    OP    QVRKNSTOM. 


wide  and  125  feet  long;  and  five  positions  are  taken 
for  dams,  one  of  which  is  23  feet  high. 

The  whole  length  of  this  canal  is  43^  miles,  a  little 
more  than  19  of  which  are  slack  water  ;  the  total 
amount  of  lockage  334  feet. 

The  Deep  Cut  is  considered  the  most  gigantic  artifi- 
cial work  in  America,  if  we  except  the  Desague  near 
Mexico ;  and,  with  the  precipice  of  locks  which  descend 
the  mountain  ridge,  forms  altogether  one  of  the  most 
interesting  improvements  of  the  age. 

From  the  Falls  on  the  Canada  side  to  CIueenston 
the  distance  is  7  miles,  over  a  good  road  which  passes 
the  former  residence  of  the  Duke  of  Richmond,  since 
owned  by  Sir  Peregrine  Maitland.  dueenston  lies  on 
the  bank  of  the  Niagara,  and  has  little  in  its  appear- 
ance indicating  a  prosperous  or  thriving  village. 

The  battle  of  Q,ueenston  which  was  fought  at  this  place 
occurred  on  the  13th  of  Oct.  1812.  Gen.  Van  Rens- 
selaer, who  had  command  of  the  American  troops  at 
Lewiston,  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  river,  determined 
on  crossing  over  and  taking  possession  of  Ctueenston 
heights.  The  crossing  was  eflfected  before  day  light ; 
and  the  ascent,  which  was  up  a  precipitous  ravine,  ri- 
sing near  300  feet  above  the  river,  was  accomplished 
amid  the  fire  of  the  enemy  from  his  breast  w^orks  on  the 
heights.  As  the  Americans  approached,  the  British 
retreated  to  the  village  below;  where  their  comman- 
dant, Gen.  Brock,  in  forming  his  lines  to  reascend  the 
heights,  was  mortally  wounded  by  a  random  shot.  His 
aid.  Col.  M'Donald,  then  took  command  and  ascended 
the  heights,  where  he  was  also  wounded  mortally. 
The  Americans  continued  in  possession  but  a  few 


DIiOCi;'3    MOMUMKNT. 


27; 


e  taken 

I,  a  little 
Ihe   total 

ic  artifi- 
ue  near 
descend 
le  most 

ENSTON 

t  passes 

d,  since 

lies  on 

ippear- 

is  place 
I  Rens- 
oops  at 
rmined 
enston 
light; 
ine,  ri- 
)lished 
on  the 
British 
iman- 
id  the 
His 
3nded 
rtally. 
L  few 


I 


hours,  when  they  recrosi^ed  the  river.  The  pickets 
and  breast  works,  though  in  a  state  of  decay,  are  still 
visible. 

The  spot  on  which  Brock  fell  is  pointed  out  to  stran- 
gers. It  wa3  in  a  small  field,  since  called  Brock's  lot ; 
and  is  reserved  for  the  erection  of  a  church  at  a  future 
period. 

BROCK'S  MONUMENT 

Is  on  the  height?,  one  fourth  of  a  mile  southwest  of 
the  village  of  Gtueenston.  It  is  composed  of  free  stone ; 
and,  excepting  the  base,  is  of  a  spiral  form.  It  is  a  fine 
specimen  of  architecture ;  and  from  its  elevation,  is 
seen  for  many  miles  around.  Its  height  is  126  feet ;  and 
the  heights  on  which  it  is  erected  are  270  feet  above 
the  level  of  the  Niagara  river.  The  ascent  to  the  top 
of  the  monument  is  by  means  of  winding  steps,  170 
in  number.  It  is  extremely  fatiguing ;  but  the  prospect 
afforded  of  the  surrounding  country,  for  50  miles  in  ex- 
tent, will  richly  repay  the  tourist  for  the  time  and  trou- 
ble in  visiting  its  pinnacle.  The  following  inscription 
appears  on  the  monument : 

"The  Legislature  of  Upper  Canada  has  dedicated 
this  monument  to  the  many  civil  and  military  service! 
of  the  late  Sir  Isaac  Brock,  Knight,  Commander  of 
the  most  honorable  Order  of  the  Bath,  Provincial  Lieut. 
Governor  and  Major  General,  commanding  his  Majes- 
ty's forces  therein.  He  fell  in  action  on  the  1 3th  of 
October,  1812,  honored  and  beloved  by  those  whom  he 
governed,  and  deplored  by  his  Sovereign,  to  whose  ser- 
vice his  life  had  been  devoted.  His  remains  are  depos- 
ited in  this  vault,  as  also  his  aid-de-camp,  Lieut.  Colo- 

t3 


n 


«76 


I  r.WlSTON. 


1 
1 


> 


nel  John  M'Donald,  who  died  of  IiIh  wounds  tlie  14tli 
of  October,  1812,  roccivrd  tho  day  iM^ibro  in  action." 

Fort  Geokge,  or  Nkwauk,  is  7  miles  north  of 
Cluoenston,  and  is  located  at  the  entrance  of  the  Niag- 
ara river  into  Lake  Ontario.  The  village  was  burnt 
durinfr  the  last  \^a^;  whirli  event  was  followed  by  the 
burning  of  several  frontier  vilhujes  on  the  American 
shore,  as  retaliatory.  Fort  George,  near  the  village,  is 
the  most  prominent,  and  perhaps  the  only  object  of  in- 
terest presented.  It  is  in  a  state  of  tolerable  preserva- 
tion, and  has  generally  since  the  war  been  occupied  as 
a  garrison  by  a  small  number  of  soldiers.  The  river  is 
crossed  in  a  horse  boat,  to 

YouNGSTOWN,  containing  from  40  to  50  houses,  one 
mile  north  of  which,  and  directly  opposite  Newark,  is 
Fort  Niagara. =**  It  was  built  by  the  French  in  1725, 
passed  into  British  hands  by  the  conquest  of  Canada, 
and  was  surrendered  to  the  U.  States  in  1796.  It  was 
taken  by  the  British  by  surprise  during  the  last  war, 
and  abandoned  on  the  restoration  of  peace.  1  he  works 
are  now  in  a  state  of  decay. 

Lewiston  is  7  miles  south  of  Youngstown,  and  is 
directly  opposite  the  village  of  Q,ueenston.  It  is  loca- 
ted at  the  foot  and  termination  of  the  Mountain  Ridxrc. 
or  alluvial  way,  (noticed  hereafter,)  and  at  the  head  of 
navigation  on  the  Niagara  river.  With  the  other  fron- 
tier villages,  it  was  laid  in  ruins  during  the  late  w^ar, 
and  was  deserted  by  its  inhabitants,  from  Dec.  1813, 


*  This  is  the  place   where  the  celebrated    William 
Morgan  was  confined  after  his  abduction. 


LF.nisroM. 


277 


to  April,  I8ir»;  but  it  is  now  in  a  floijrishinrr  condition, 
and  itrt  buildin^js  rxhihit  much  taste  and  ncatriPss.  A 
ferry  is  ostabliBhed  betwtM'n  tins  place  and  Ciu<'cnpton. 
While  standing  on  the  lofty  hank,  the  rapid  motion  of 
the  river  witli  its  various  eddies,  are  far  from  inviting, 
and  seem  to  forbid  the  idea  of  a  pleasant  passao;c  :  but 
these  sensations  arc  removi  d  soon  afr/T  enteiinpf  the 
boat.  It  is  carrifid  down  t'or  a  cont-iderable  distance 
with  much  rapidity,  but  without  danger.  Every  ap- 
pearance confirms  the  supposition,  that  at  this  place  the 
falls  once  poured  their  immcnso  volumes  of  water,  but 
by  a  constant  abrasion  of  the  cataract,  have  receded  to 
their  present  position,  7  miles  distant. 

Stages  leaves  Levvistoii  every  morning  for  Rochester, 
distant  80  miles,  passing  on  the  Ridge  Koad,  or  alluvial 
way,*  and  reach  Ro<  hester  at  evening.      Stages,  also 


*  This  ri<Ne  extends  alonn-  the  south  shore  of  Lake 
Ontario,  from  the  Genesee  river  to  Niaiiura  river,  a  dis- 
tance of  about  80  mili^s.  The  rotul  is  handsoim  ly  arch- 
ed in  the  centre,  anvl  is  generally  from  i  lo  8  rods  wide. 
In  some  places  it  is  elevated  120  «»r  130  feet  alxne  the 
level  of  the  lake,  from  which  it  is  distant  from  G  to  10 
miles.  The  first  40  miles  from  Lewiston,of  this  natur- 
al highway,  is  broken  for  a  considerable  extent,  by  log 
roads  or  causeways,  borden  <l  by  impervious  forests, 
occasionally  relieved  by  the  teniporury  huts  of  the  re- 
cent settlers;  but  the  remaining  distance  is  unusually 
level,  and,  with  some  intermissions,  bordtned  by  a  line 
of  cultivation.  It  is  generally  believed  that  this  was 
once  the  southern  boundary  of  the  lake,  and  that  the 
ridge  was  occasioned  by  the  action  of  the  water.  The 
gravel  and  smooth  stones  of  which  the  ridge  is  com- 

f)osed,  intermingled  with  a  great  variety  of  shells,  leave 
ittlc  room  to  doubt  the  correctness  of  this  opinion.     It 


t 


]i 


^7S 


l>EV||.  S    M01  E. 


run  lo  liOck*»oit  eveiv  tlnv.  iIhIhiiI  iO  iimIom,  ptiM'tm^ 
ihnnuih  t'u'  Titsrarortt  \illiH't>,  onnmu'd  by  a  IiiIih  oI* 
lM<liiinp  n<  tlial  nnnu'.* 

l>i  |n»r3nin«l  th"  mnto  from    1  ^fW  I'^lon  lo  (lie  I'iiIIb  on 

t'lo    AjuiMirnn  f^i(l«%  th<>  Irnvrllcr  soon  Ixuinp  to  rlinib 

fht^  !u  ii;hl  or  nionnfain   (IcTiiMn*'  lli"'  iliircuMiro  of"  nl- 

titndo  Ix  1>\  »'<M»   I,!\lvi>«»  (hUiUio  ihhI   I'm-.     Th*'  nHcont 

is  <»oni<Mvhat   )»ivri|>ilt>iH,  hnl  is  oviMconn'  >\  illiouf  <lij]'i- 

rnll  V,      Al  (li<'  «listanr('  of  h\  o  niil'S,  tiio  lop  im  j»i'in«  <i, 

rtn<l  a(Vor»ls  an  in»)>osinji   prolix  ol   ol   (lio  nlnto-il   iiilfi- 

nnnal>lt'  oxpanso   ln>l»u> ,     Tlir  roni^'c  ol    llir   n)i«:lil}' 

?sia<xara  is  rasily  liaoMl  |.    its  millol  :    >\  Ikmc,  iVoin  lln  ir 

proininrnro,    ai(>  <listino11y    siimi,    I'orls    I\ia^ai;»    anil 

(ii^)Vo<\      Til"  >A  a(«MP  ol'  (IwMlislanf  lalv(^  and   flio  pin- 

ronniUn«i  plains  an^so  ohamiinL-ly  pi(fnros<pu\  tlia(  llio 

travH'T  \vi(h<lia\\  s  r<  Inclantly.  r\  <  m   1o  pailicipaliMii 

iho  rnjoyiMitU  ol"  srcMirs  mon*   s\iMin\<'.      'I'lnoc  and  a 

half  inilf's  iVoni  liOnislon  is  what  is  callod  |ho 

Dr.vn's  FloiK,  a  nio>^t  trnilic  ^nlj)!!,  loinnd  by  a 
chasm  in  t!\('  raslcMn  banls  ol'  the  I\ia,i:aia,  !.»()  or  "iilH) 
ft'i^t  d'M^)>.      An  aui^b'  of  this  ,'^nlph  is  uilliiM  a  W'w  I'oi't 


L 


is  a  proal  nafnral  <"nri(>sily,  and  should  h"  travlb^i 
over  by  the"  tourist  in  uoi'iii  t«»  or  riMinnin'j  iVoni  tlw; 
Kails.  ' 

♦  Doct.  SpatVord,  in  his  (^azottoor  ol'  No\v-A"ork,  re- 
m-xrks,  that  this  tnlx^  oauio  iVoni  INorth  Carolina  about 
1710,  and  ioin«d  the  oonrodtMaoy  ol'  thi'  Vwo  Mi^tiona, 
th.MUS(dvPs  n\akia:I  tho  "^ixth.  'I'boy  shll  hold  an  in- 
tf»rrst  in  a  vory  lariin  and  valuahh'  tiaii  o{  lancl  in  N. 
Carolina,  whih  will  not  be  extinct  before  A.  \^.  101  I. 
They  also  own  a  very  considerable  tract  of  land  in  this 
ptate,  deeded  to  tlicni  by  the  Holland  C^ouipany. 


I. AMP,    ONTAnifJ. 


279 


c»f  flip  n)rnl  ;  fiflo»tliri<;  fi»  \hr  pn^Fiiri^  frnvfllf  r,  witlioiit 
fllijijlitin^,  nn  o|i|»(»i(iitiity  of  looUiiijir  into  llin  yrlwllirl^ 
ahysH  I)C'iH'nlli.  I>nriii«j[  ihv  I'mirli  wnr,  r  flftfirliirifiit 
f>r  tli(»  nrilinh  nriiiy,  while  r^tl^^(m^  lnnii  ScliloHsrr  in 
lln'  iii^lil,  Im  luK'  ji  Hnjwrior  lorn'  of  l''r«rirli  himI  IndiJiit'^, 
woro  jlrptroyod  at  thin  phicf.  (  Mlicors,  hoIHicih,  wo- 
mrn  and  chilclron,  with  tlirir  horspp,  wn»/tronR,  hnjTfrn^n, 
&r.  worn  nil  prncipitntrfl  down  thn  crnlph.  ThoRn  who 
worn  not  drownnd  in  llio  rivrr  were  dashed  in  pieces  on 
the  naked  rorks! 

Tho  Whirlpool  is  one  milo  farther  south.  It  in 
formed  by  a  short  turn  in  tho  river,  and  can  ho  viewed 
on  either  side:  though  the  hrpt  view,  connected  with 
the  rapids,  is  on  tiio  American  shore.  One  mile  fur- 
ther, is  a 

•SuLriHTR  SrniNo,  used  principally  for  hathin^. 

The  Amkhican  Fam,  at  jManchenter,  is  a  niile  and  a 
half  farther,  and  has  Immmi  alreiidy  noticed  in  thiM  work. 

LAKL:  ONTARIO. 

This  lake  is  in  len<Tth  171  miler^,  and  in  cireumferenco 
dfi7.  Tn  niJiny  pinces  its  dfpth  has  not  ln^en  aKC(Ttain- 
rd.  In  the  middle  a  line  of  .'ir)0  fathomn  han  Ix^en  let 
down  without  lindiniT  bottom.  Of  the  many  isUujds 
which  this  lake  contains,  the  principal  is  Grand  Isle, 
opposite  to  KiniTPton.  At  this  place  the  lake  is  about 
10  miles  in  widtli,  and  from  thence  it  ^rarhuilly  con- 
fnicts  until  it  renches  Brock ville,  a  distance  of  ahotit 
50  miles,  where  its  width  is  not  over  2  miles.  About 
40  miles  of  this  distance  is  filled  with  a  continued  clus- 


181) 


mu'TTf.  rnoM  niauaua  to  MONinr.*!.. 


\ 


tor  of  piniill  islnndH,  wliirh  IVoiii  thrii  ninnbcr  hiive  been 
distm^uiHlu'il  liy  tlw  luuno  of  tho  'I'liouwjind  Islaiuls. 

'riioiio^h  iiironoi  in  its  ivvlcnt  to  tlio  H'limnjinjf  4  {^roat 
woat<Mn  lakes,  Onttiiio  is  lur  fnun  l)«MU<r  llic  least,  inlor- 
cstintj.  Thi'  north-iMwl  shore  of  the  lal^c  eotisist.s  priii- 
fipnllv  oi'low  hind,  inul  is  iit  nuiny  plaeea  inarsliy.  On 
tlie  north  and  noith-Nvest  it  is  more  elevatetl,  and  «:rn<l- 
ually  suhsidt  s  towards  the  sonth.  llie  margin  of  tho 
lake  is  jjen(Mally  bordered  hy  thiek  forests,  through 
\vl\ioh  ari^  oeeasi«)nally  seen  htth'  setth'tniMits  snrround- 
ed  willi  rieh  iields  of  enltivation,  ternnnateil  by  lofty 
ridjjes  of  land  liere  and  ther-Missmninir  the  eharactrr  of 
mountains.  Some  of  the  hi«jhest  elevations  of  land  are 
the  olifls  of  Torento,  the  Devil's  Nose,  and  the  Ffly 
JMilo  Hill.  The  jMincipal  rivers  which  empty  into  the 
lake  on  i\w  sonth,  are  the  HiMieseo  atid  Osvvei^o. 
York,  Kinijston  and  Saekett's  llarbor,  nil  situated  on 
the  bonhMP  of  tho  lake,  are  well  known  in  connexion 
with  the  history  of  tho  late  war. 

ROUTE  FUOM  NTVOAK  A  TO  MONTREAL. 

British  side. —  A  boat  leaves  Niajijara  for  Proscott,  on 
Lake  Ontario,  and  vi<'e  versa,  four  times  a  Nveek,  from 
whence  staixes  leav»^  for  Montreal  six  times  a  week.* 
A  l)oat  is  also  bnildinjr  to  run  from  Proscott  to  the  head 
of  the  Lonir  Salt  lUipids,  within  ton  miles  of  Cornwall, 
wdiich  will  make  tVom  INiaiiara  to  Citieboc  but  thirty^ 
five  miles  land  carriasre.  Tho  route  from  Niasfara  to 
Montreal  is  generally  performed  in  three  days,  as  fol- 
lows : 


Ni 


Ni 

••y 

M 


A  boat  also  plies  daily  betwoen  York  and  Niagara. 


Ffly 


nouiK  rnoM  niaoama  to  Mftvrnr.Ai.,  2W| 

C^oncliow  Iravo  IIh!   I'Villi  cvrry  finy  f(»r  Dhlnnrr,  Farr. 
Nm^Mini, 14       $100 

'I'lin  S(pfinior  (irral  lfnti(tHy  IrnvPB 
Ni!i;;nm  pvory  (ivo  dny^,  tJic  Jlhinpr  ov**- 
ry  Sfitiinlsiy  rvmiiif;,  tlir  .NViiirnrn  rvrry 
Momliiy  rvf^ninj;  nt,  0  o'rNn'U,  niifl  llin 
(lfffr}ist(ni  rv«'ry  'rm'^dfiy  iiiMitiin«^  nt  0 
rt'clnrk,  lor  Kin^Rfoii,  l^itM-kvill*',  arul 
PrrMcof f,  (l)fun(l  iiK  IihIjmI.) 250         8  00 

M'liP  IIppiT  ('niiiula  linn  of  ('oa<'hrH 
ntid  SlrnmhontH  loavrn  PnRCftlt  rlaily, 
cxropt  Sal  unlay  atnl  Sunday,  lor  Mon- 
treal in  IIm'  lollowin^  rnaruuir  :   Prr'srott 

t(i  (Cornwall,  hy  land, 50 

Cornwiill  to  ( Jot^au  dn  Lar,  via  St.  Ro- 
jriM  Tndian  Villarj«%  l»y  Htrani  l»oat,. . .  .41 
C'otcan  du  I  jar.  to  CancMidcH,  by  land,  lf> 
CaHradf'P  to  Lachino,  by  strnni  boat,  24 
liarbino  to  Montrral,  by  land, 9     150         7  00 

From  Montreal  to  Clufbrc  a  boat 
Icavop  rvcry  day,  rxcrpt  Sunday,  (board 
included,) 180         4  00 

MILES,  5H4    $20  00 

American  side. — firrrtoforo,  tbn  Am'^riran  boat  has 
left  Lnwiston  only  onco  a  work  ;  but  8inc«.'  tbe  cornple- 
tion  of  tbe  new  and  liandHomc  boat,  tho  United  States, 
it  is  supposed  tbat  trips  will  be  efi^cted  twice  a  week  be- 
tween Lewiston  and  Ogdensbur«Tb,  distant  268  miles, 
touchinnj  at  Fort  Niajnrara,  Genesse  river,  Oswepo,  Sack- 
et's  Harbor,  Cape  Vincent,  French  Creek  and  Morris- 
town.     From  Ogdcnsburgh,  a  stage  is  generally  takfii 


282 


CHARLOTTE OSWEGO. 


for  Montreal ;  though  passage  boats,  which  descend  as 
far  as  Lachino,  are  sometimes  preferred. 

Froiri  Lewiston  to  Montreal  is  385  miles,  and  the 
interveninij  distances  are  estimated  as  follows: 

Miles.  JMiles. 


Ogdcnsburgh, 12 

Gallop  Islands, 5 

Hamilton, 19 

St.  Regis, 35 

La  Chine, 53 

Montreal, 7 


Fort  Niagara, 7 

Genesee  River, 74 

Great  Sodus  Bay,. .. .  35 

Oswego  River, 28 

Sacket's  Harbor,  ....   40 

Cape  Vincent, 20 

Morriiton, 50 

Fort  Niagara,  7  miles  from  Leweston.  {Seep.  276.) 

Charlovte,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Genesee  river,  74 
miles  from  Lewiston,  is  a  port  of  entry  where  there  is 
a  light-house,  and  the  commencement  of  extensive  piers 
building  by  the  United  States,  for  improving  the  navi- 
gation. The  river  is  navigable  to  the  Carthage  falls,* 
4  miles ;  from  thence  to  Rochester*  is  2  miles ;  to 
which  place  passengers  can  always  be  conveyed  by 
stages  in  readiness  on  the  arrival  of  the  boat. 

Great  Sodus  Bay,  35  miles.  This  embraces  East, 
Port  and  Little  Sodus  Bays,  and  has  three  islands  of 
considerable  size.  The  whole  circumference  of  the 
bay,  with  its  coves  and  points,  is  about  1 5  miles.  Its 
waters  are  deep  and  clear,  and  its  shores  have  several 
elegant  sites  for  buildings. 

Oswego,  28  miles.  This  village  is  situate  at  the 
mouth  of  the  Oswego  river  j  and  within  a  few  years 


*  For  a  description  of  these  places,  see  pages  245  to 
250. 


sacket's  iiardor. 


283 


Miles. 

.  12 
.  5 
.  19 
.  35 
.  53 
.     7 


has  rapidly  increased  in  size  and  po])nlation.  The  fails 
in  the  river  at  this  olacc  aflbnl  extensive  facilities  for 
manufacturing  operations  ;  added  to  which,  the  Oswe- 
go canal  terminates  here,  uniting  with  the  Erie  canal 
at  Syracuse,  38  miles  distant.  An  extensive  pier  has 
been  recently  erected  at  Oswego,  affording  a  safe  and 
beautiful  harbor  for  boats  and  sloops. 

Forts  Oswogo  and  Ontario  are  at  this  place.  The 
first  was  erected  in  1727,  and  the  latter  in  1755.  Both 
were  besieged  by  Gen.  Montcalm  in  1756,  with  3,000 
troops  and  two  vessels.  Fort  Ontario  was  soon  evacu- 
ted  by  the  English,  which  was  followed  by  the  surren- 
der of  Fort  Oswego,  with  a  large  quantity  of  stores, 
cannon,  two  sloops  and  nearly  200  boats.  The  posi- 
tion, however,  having  been  held  a  short  time  by  the 
French,  was  abandoned. 

During  the  last  war,  the  place  was  taken  by  the 
British,  after  a  loss  of  about  100  men  ;  but  was  evacu- 
ated immediately  afterwards. 

A  steam  boat  plies  daily  between  this  place  and 
Kingston  on  the  Canada  side. 

Sacket's  Harbor,  40  miles.  This  was  an  import- 
ant military  and  naval  station  during  the  last  war. 
The  Barracks  are  situate  about  400  yards  north-easter- 
ly of  the  village  on  the  shore.  They  are  a  solid  range 
of  stone  buildings,  and  add  much  to  the  appearance  of 
the  place.  Two  forts  erected  during  the  war  are  now 
in  ruins.  On  Navy-Point,  which  forms  the  harbor, 
there  is  a  large  ship  of  war  on  the  stocks  ;  but  which, 
probably,  will  never  be  finished. 
z 


284 


OCDENSnrRCll. 


!>» 


Cape  Vincent,  20  miles.  Kinrrf!*  .n  Upper  Can- 
ada, is  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  K  ,  j  1  miles  distant, 
with  Grand  Island  intcrvt-ning. 

MoRRisTowv,  50  miles.  The  river  here  is  but  a  mile 
and  a  quarter  wido  ;  on  the  opposite  side  of  which  is 
the  village  of  Brock  ville. 

Ogdkn'sburgh,  which  tf rmiuatr-s  the  paeisajiije  of  the 
steam-boat,  is  12  miles  farther,  and  is  situated  on  the 
east  side  of  the  Oswi^ffntche  river,  at  its  ronflurnee  with 
the  St.  Lawrence.  This  is  a  thriving  village,  containing 
about  250  hous'^s,  and  a  population  of  about  2000  in- 
habitants. A  military  fortification,  consisting  of  two 
stone  buildings  and  a  numbor  of  M'ooden  barracks  was 
formerly  erected  here  by  the  British  government,  but 
was  ceded  to  the  United  States  in  1706. 

A  regular  stage  leaves  Ogdensburgh  three  times  a 
week  for  Plattsburgh  ;  from  whence  a  steam-boat  can 
be  taken  on  Lake  Champlain  for  St.  John's  or  AVhite- 
hall. 

Stages  filso  arrive  and  depart  every  v/eek,  to  and  from 
Montreal ;  and  by  crossing  the  river,  a  stage  can  be 
taken  at  Prescott  for  tliat  place  daily.  Passage  boats, 
also,  leave  Ogdensburgh  about  every  day,  and  descend 
the  river  as  far  as  La  Cliine,  7  miles  above  Montreal, 
in  3  days.  The  boats  are  usually  furnished  Avith  every 
necessary  implement  for  their  good  management,  and 
with  skilful  pilots.  The  latter  are  more  particularly  re- 
quisite, as  the  current  of  the  St.  Lawrence  is  generally 
very  rapid,  and  obstructed  by  numerous  shoals  and  isl- 
ands, which  by  an  inexperienced  navigator  could  not 
without  diflficulty  be  avoided.     The  principal  rapids  are 


ST.  lAWKHNC  E  niVF.R. 


2S5 


three  in  numbor — llio  Lon^ue  Fault,  lli'j  Rapids  of  tho 
Cedars*  and  tho  C'usoadcs  of  St.  LouIh.  Tlie  first  of 
these  are  i)  miles  in  lon^'th,  and  are  usually  passed  in  20 
minutes,  whicli  is  at  tiie  rate  of  27  miles  an  hour.  The 
rapids  of  tht;  Ccdiirs  teiiuinate  about  3  miles  from  the 
Cascadi^s,  whieh,  after  a  broken  course  of  about  2 
mib'S,  pour  tlwir  fh.imiuiv  waters  into  Lake  St.  Louis. 
Lake  St.  Fraiuis, on  the  St. Lawrrnce,  is  25  milis  lonp, 
and  its  greatest  breadth  {.I.  The  borders  of  the  lake 
are  so  low  that  t^iey  can  scarcely  be  dlstinj^uished  in 
passiniT  along  its  centre.  At  the  northern  extremity  of 
Lake  St.  Francis  is  sitiiated  the  villaj^c  of  St.  Regis, 
through  whieh  passes  the  boundary  line  between  the 
Canadas  and  the  United  States. 

The  banks  of  the  St.  Lawrence  exhibit  a  country  re- 
markably fertile,  and  in  many  places  under  good  culti- 
vation. 

The  first  settlements  in  this  region  commenced  in 
1783,  and  though  50  years  only  have  elapsed,  it  now 
exhibits  many  of  the  embcUishinonts  incident  to  a  nu- 
merous population  and  successful  improvement.  The 
perpetual  varying  scenery  along  its  banks,  occasionally 
diversified  with  smiling  fields  and  flourishing  villages, 
together  with  the  islands  and  rapids  of  the  St.  Law- 


*  It  was  at  this  place  that  Gen.  Amherst's  brigade  of 
300  men,  comiuL'"  to  attack  Canada,  were  lost.  The 
French  at  Montreal  ree.-ived  thv'?  first  intelligence  of 
the  invasion,  by  the  dead  bodies  floating  past  the  town. 
The  pilot  who  conducted  their  first  batteaux  commit- 
t'^^d  an  error  by  running  into  the  wrong  channel,  and  the 
other  batteaux  following  close,  all  were  involved  in  the 
eamo  dc-sli  action. 


i. 

r< 

1   i 
\   i 

t 

\   i 

•   i 
I   1 

I 


Z^O 


MONTUF.Al-. 


r«'iicc,  pro«»erit  a  Huccfssion  of  novtlti*  s  uitli  which  the 
traveller  cannot  fail  1o  he  ifratificd. 

Gallop  Inland!:),  5  mih.'s  from  Ogdcnshiir^li.  The 
river  is  here  clivi«led  into  two  currents,  the  conimence- 
ment  of  the  jjjreat  rapids  helow.  From  tliese  rapids, 
the  river  descends  231  feet  in  230  miles.  On  Stoiiey 
Island,  (one  of  the  Gallop  cluster,)  the  French  had  a 
strong  fortress,  which  was  taken  and  demolished  by 
Gen.  Amherst,  in  17G0. 

St.  Regis,  54  miles,  is  a  villa<j:e  occupied  by  a  tribe 
of  Indians  of  that  name,  who  have  a  reservation  of  land 
here  of  considerable  extent.  One  of  their  chiefs,  aged 
about  90,  remarked  to  a  gentleman  of  our  acquaintance 
a  short  time  since,  that  he  visited  the  High  Rock  Spring 
at  Saratoga  nearly  70  years  ago,  ivhen  the  water  jlowed 
over  the  lop  of  tliK  aperture.* 

Lachine,  53  miles.  From  thence  to  Montreal,  which 
is  7  miles  farther,  the  river  road  is  generally  preferred  ; 
from  which  a  charming  view  of  the  rapids  and  of  sever- 
al islands  is  enjoyed.    It  also  crosses  the  Lachine  canal. 

MONTREAL 

Is  situated  on  the  south  side  of  the  island  of  the  same 
name,  131  miles  from  Ogdensburgh,  and  170  from  Glue- 
bee.  The  length  of  the  island  is  30  miles,  its  mean 
breadth  7,  and  its  circumference  about  70.  The  city 
extends  along  the  St.  Lawrence,  about  2  miles  in  length, 


*  No  one  living  near  the  Spring  remembers  to  have 
seen  the  water  rise  higher  than  within  8  or  10  inches  of 
the  top  of  the  rock.     At  present  it  is  considerably  lower. 


MOSTRKAI.. 


2*=17 


i^no  half  a  mile  in  width.  The  buildinps  are  mostly 
constructed  of  stone,  and  arraniied  on  ri'jjularly  dispoH- 
«d  but  narrow  streets.  A  stotM-  wall  formerly  en(*ireled 
the  city,  whieii,  by  the  sanction  of  the  Cfovcrnment,  waa 
some  years  aijo  totally  deinoliphed.  Montreal  is  di- 
vided into  the  upper  and  lower  towns.  The  latter  of 
these  contains  the  Hotel  Dieu,  foimded  in  KJ 14,  and 
under  a  superior  and  thirty  nuns,  whos(?  occupation  isi 
to  administer  relief  to  the  sick,  who  are  received  into 
that  hospital.  The  French  jjovernme!  t  formerly  con- 
tributed to  the  support  of  this  institution  ;  but  since  tho 
revolution  which  occasioned  the  loss  of  its  principal 
funds,  then  vested  in  Paris,  its  resources  have  been  con- 
fined to  the  avails  of  some  property  in  land.  The  up- 
per town  contains  the  Cathedral,  the  Eni:rlish  Church, 
the  Seminary,  the  Convent  of  Uecollets,  and  that  of  tho 
Sisters  of  Notre  Dame.  The  f^en<*ral  hospital,  or  Con- 
vent of  the  Grey  Sisters,  is  situated  on  the  banks  of  the 
8t.  Lawrence,  a  little  distance  from  the  town,  from  which 
it  is  separate*]  by  a  small  rivulet.  This  institution  was 
established  in  1753,  and  is  under  the  management  of  a 
superior  and  10  nuns. 

Some  of  the  public  buiklinos  are  beai'tiful.  Among 
these,  the  new  Catholic  Chv.rcli^  in  ffrandeur,  capacious- 
ness, style  and  decoration,  is  probably  not  exceeded  by 
any  edifice  in  America.  It  is  255  feet  lonji,  and  34  feet 
wide,  and  is  sufficiently  capacious  to  hold  iO,000  per- 
sons. 

J^elson''s  JSIonumentj  near  the  Market  Place,  is  an  ob- 
ject also  meriting  an  accurate  survey. 

The  jyiuseum  belonging  to  the  Society  of  Natural  His- 
tory contains  a  numerous  assemblage  of  indigenous  and 

z2 


288 


montheaL. 


exotic  specimens,  an  examination  of  which  will  prove 
highly  interesting  to  visitors  of  taste  and  science. 

A  visit  to  tlie  Nunneries  can  generally  be  effected 
without  dilficult}' ;  though  a  trilling  pin'chase  of  some 
of  the  manufactures  of  the  nuns  is  generally  expected. 

The  College  is  a  large  stone  edifice,  3  stories  high, 
and  has  a  spacious  yard  on  the  south,  adjoining  to 
which  is  a  beautiful  garden.  It  generally  contains 
about  300  students,  and  the  terms  of  tuition  are  80  dol- 
lars per  annum.  Connected  with  the  college  there  is 
also  a  preparatory  school,  under  excellent  regulations. 

The  Parade  is  a  beautiful  public  ground  on  which  the 
troops  are  usually  drilled. 

The  prevailing  religion  here,  as  v.'cll  as  at  CXuebec,  is 
the  Roman  Catholic.  The  clergy  derive  a  revenue  from 
grants  of  laud  made  to  them  under  the  ancient  regime, 
and  from  contributions  ordained  by  the  church.  Be- 
sides these,  a  principal  source  of  revenue  is  from  the 
fines  for  alienation,  v.hich  amount  to  about  8  per  cent, 
paid  by  the  purchaser  of  real  estate,  every  time  the 
same  is  sold,  and  which  extends  to  sales  of  all  real  es- 
tates in  the  seignory  or  island  of  Montreal. 

The  city,  including  its  suburbs,  contains  rising  of 
30,000  inhabitants. 

The  Mountain  of  Montreal,  from  which  the  city  takes 
its  name,  rises  about  2^  miles  distant.  It  is  elevated 
700  feet  above  the  level  of  the  river,  and  extends  from 
north  to  south  2  miles.  This  spot  has  alieady  been  se- 
lected for  the  residence  of  some  private  gentlemen, 
whose  elegant  white  mansions  appear  beautiful  in  con- 
trast with  the  surrounding  foliage.  The  island  of  St. 
Helena,  immediately  opposite  the  city,  is  a  delightful 


Vii 
fi  i 


tittle  spot,  fro 
with  its  lofty 
ment  of  Lon 


MACHINE. 

m  whenc!: 

'  is 

had  a 

mountain 

in 

the  be 

sueil,  St. 

L 

ambert 

289 

fine  view  of  Montreal, 
Lck  ground,  the  settle- 
,  and  La  Prairie  de  la 


Madaienc,  on  the  east  side  of  the  riv-'^r,  and  the  waters 
of  the  St.  Lawrence  dashiiiir  over  the  rocks  of  La  Chine, 
and  swooping  their  course  around  a  variety  of  islands. 

The  principal  public  houses  in  the  city  are.  Masonic 
Hall,  in  the  north  part ;  Goodcnouiih's,  ^^'t.  Paul  street; 
Mansion-Housc,  do. ;  and  the  British  American  Hotel, 
do.  The  latter  is  located  near  Dalhousie's  Square,  the 
most  fasnionablc  part  of  the  town,  and  being  on  the 
bank  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  commands  in  its  rear  a  most 
imposing  prospect  of  that  noble  river,  with  the  sur- 
rounding scenery.  It  is  kept  by  Mr.  Rasfuy  poprietor 
of  the  V^arennes  Sprin^rs  Hotel,  (hereafter  noticed,)  who 
has  added  much  to  its  convenience  and  embellishment, 
and  rendered  it  in  other  respects  a  deservedly  popular 
establishment. 

The  climate  of  Montrcnl  is  salubrious,  and  the  city 
had  generally  been  free  of  epidemic  diseases  until  the 
summer  of  1S32,  wb.cn  it  sufK  red  severely  from  the  rav- 
ages of  the  Asiatic  Cholera.  It  first  made  its  appear- 
ance in  tlie  carl}^  part  of  June,  and  in  two  months 
swept  ort'2000  emigrants  and  inhabitants. 

EXCURSIONS. 

Lachixe,  9  miles  from  Montreal,  with  which  it  is 
connected  by  a  canal,  is  a  place  of  considerable  resort. 
By  taking  the  river  road,  a  view  is  obtained  of  the  Rap- 
ids, Nuns'  and  Heron  Islands,  and  the  Indian  village  of 
Caughnawaga. 


290 


RIDEAC  CAJ^AL. 


Varennes.  a  stafje  and  steam-boat  leave  Montreal 
for  Varennes,  a  beautiful  village,  15  miles  distant,  every 
morning  and  afternoon,  returning  the  ensuing  day. 
The  lines  of  steam-boats  plying  daily  between  Mon- 
treal and  Gtuebcc,  also  touch,  both  ascending  and  de- 
scending, to  receive  and  land  passengers.  The  F«- 
rennes  Spring  Hotel,  located  in  the  village,  is  a  branch 
establishment  of  Rasea's  British  American  Hotel  in 
Montreal.  The  view  from  the  Hotel  is  one  of  the 
most  interesting  in  North  America,  commanding  in 
front  the  mountainous  land  on  the  north  shore  of  the 
St.  Lawrence  ;  to  the  west,  the  city  and  island  of 
Montreal,  the  island  and  fortification  of  St.  Helens,  and 
the  winding  course  of  the  river  ;  and  on  the  east,  a 
most  picturesque  ^roup  of  islands,  with  tlicir  varied 
channels  ;  while  the  rear  presents  the  most  fertile  and 
highly  cultivated  district  in  Lower  Canada,  with  the 
magnificent  mourxtains  of  Chambly  and  Beloil  in  the 
distance.  The  Hotel,  as  a  building,  is  capacious, 
and  furnished  in  a  style  of  superior  neatness  and  ele- 
gance. 

The  Springs  are  one  mile  from  the  village,  and  are 
approached  by  a  road  on  the  bank  of  the  St.  Ln.wrence, 
forming  a  delightful  promenade,  where  an  extensive 
and  commodious  bath  house  has  been  erected.  By  an 
analysis  of  these  water,  they  prove  to  be  possessed  of 
valuable  medicinal  qualities,  and  are  free  from  substan- 
ces which  can  be  deemed  deleterious.  Varennes  and  its 
vicinity,  therefore,  presents  to  those  travelling  in  pursuit 
of  health  and  pleasure,  many  attractions. 

The  RiDEAU  Canal.  This  work,  which  has  been 
made  at  the  expense  of  Great  Britain,  forms  a  naviga- 


i 


niDEAU   CANAL. 


'291 


the 


:le- 


ble  comniunicalion  between  Lake  Ontario  and  the  (Jt- 
towa  or  Grand  lliver,  which  empties  into  the  St.  Law- 
rence opposite  Montreal.  Tlie  object  of  its  construc- 
tion has  been  to  secure,  in  time  oC  war,  tlie  transporta- 
tion of  mihtary  stores,  &.c.  by  an  interior  route,  less  ex- 
posed to  the  U.  States,  and  practicable  in  lake  vessels 
of  125  tons.  The  junction  of  the  llideau  river  with  the 
Ottowa,  which  is  the  lower  extremity  of  the  canal,  is 
120  miles  from  Montreal  ;  and  from  Kingston,  near 
where  the  canal  enters  Lake  Ontario,  it  is  160  miles  by 
water,  and  130  by  land.  The  discharge  of  the  Rideau 
into  the  Ottowa,  is  marked  by  an  extensive  cove  on  the 
right  bank  of  the  latter  river,  in  a  guUey  existing  be- 
tween the  falls  of  the  Chaudiere  and  Rideau.  This 
point  appears  to  have  been  reserved  by  nature  for  the 
purpose  to  which  it  is  adapted  ;  and,  indeed,  bears  eve- 
ry characteristic,  both  as  to  its  banks  and  valley,  of 
having  been  formerly  the  bed  of  the  Rideau.  The  ele- 
vation of  the  mouth  of  the  canal  above  the  level  of  the 
sea  is  estimated  at  110  feet,  while  it  is  considered  to  be 
283  feet  below  the  summit  level  on  *<  Rideau  Lake," 
and  129  below  the  level  of  Lake  Ontario,  at  Kingston. 
Directly  above  the  mouth  of  the  canal,  may  be  seen  the 
beautiful  and  mai^nificent  cataract  of  the  Chaudiere.  It 
consists  of  a  series  of  falls,  more  or  less  extensive,  and 
amounting  in  all  to  31^  feet  perpendicular.  But  that 
which  stands  most  prominent  to  view,  and  gives  an  ap- 
pearance of  grandevu*  to  t'l'-  wholo,  is  at  the  broadest 
channel  of  the  river,  and  known  by  the  name  oHheGrande 
Chaudiere,  or  Big  Kettle,  from  the  peculiar  formation  of 
the  cauldron  into  which  the  waters  fall.  This  formation 
consists  of  a  hard  laminated  lime-stone,  in  horizontal 


292 


RIDEAU   CANAL. 


I 


strata,  and  worn  into  its  present  horse-shoe  phape  by 
the  constant  abrasion  of  the  roUing  water  over  its  sur- 
face. The  depth  of  the  cauldron  is  said  to  be  over 
three  hundred  feet — at  least,  a  sounding  line  of  that 
length  could  not  be  made  to  touch  bottom. 

Next  in  interest  to  tliesc  may  be  mentioned  the  cata- 
ract of  the  Rideau,  situated  at  the  mouth  of  the  river, 
where  its  dark  ^reen  waters  fall  from  an  eminence  of 
37  feet,  in  a  sinn-lo  unbroken  sheet.  The  river  finds  its 
source  in  the  Rideau  Lake,  85  miles  from  the  Ottowa, 
but  is  not  occupied  as  the  bed  of  the  canal  till  about  6 
miles  above  its  entrance,  it  having  been  found  more 
expedient  to  make  use  of  the  natural  valley  and  bay  al- 
ready alluded  to. 

At  this  point  it  became  necessary,  in  consequence  of 
the  rugged  and  precipitate  nature  of  the  banks  of  the 
Ottowa,  to  overcome  the  difference  of  level  between  the 
river  and  canal  by  the  construction  of  a  series  of  locks, 
eight  in  number,  and  each  rising  ten  feet,  giving  an  ag- 
gregate of  eighty  feet  perpendicular  rise  ;  constructed 
in  a  liberal  workmanlike  manner,  and  presenting  an  ele- 
gant and  commanding  appearance.  The  estimated 
cost  was  £45,700.  In  the  vicinity  of  the  locks  are  two 
spacious  basins  for  the  reception  of  boats  ;  over  one  of 
which,  there  is  a  stone  arch,  connecting  Upper  and 
Lower  By  town. 

About  seventy  miles  of  the  route  passes  through  ei- 
ther extensive  lakes  with  bold  and  rocky  shores,  or  soft 
swampy  meadows,  where  good  foundations  were  unat- 
tainable, save  at  great  additional  expense.  Hence  it 
became  necessary  to  do  away  with  the  ordinary  towing- 
path,  and  enlarge  the  canal  to  a  surface  of  48  feet,  with 


RIDKAU  CANAL. 


293 


a  depth  5  throughout,  to  admit  the  passage  of  steam- 
boats from  one  extremity  to  the  other. 

The  towns  of  Upper  and  Lower  By,  so  named  after 
the  commandant  of  engineers,  Lieut.  Col.  John  By,  un- 
der whose  superintendance  the  works  were  constructed, 
have  ah'cady  assumed  a  character  and  importance 
which,  when  their  brief  existence  is  taken  into  considera- 
tion, is  truly  marvellous.  The  towns  already  contain, 
in  addition  to  their  numerous  dwelling-houses,  two 
large  store-houses  for  the  use  of  the  Ordinance  and 
Commissariat  Departments  ;  three  substantial  build- 
ings for  the  accommodation  of  the  troops,  erected  on 
the  highest  eminence,  so  as  to  command  both  the  river 
and  canal  ;  and  at  a  short  distance  an  excellent  milita- 
ry hospital. 

In  the  vicinity  may  also  be  seen,  in  the  "  Union 
Bridge,"  the  execution  of  one  of  the  most  daring  plans 
ever  conceived.  It  connects  Upper  with  Lower  Cana- 
da, and  is  thrown  directly  over  the  falls  of  the  Chau- 
diere,  taking  advantage  of  the  numerous  rocky  islands 
embraced  by  the  diverging  branches  of  the  river  at  this 
place  ;  and  forming  altogetlier  a  most  magnificent  and 
imposing  specimen  of  civil  architectum.  The  bridge  is 
composed  of  six  distinct  arciies,  two  of  stone  and  four 
of  wood,  stretching  from  island  to  island  with  various 
spans,  as  circumstances  required  ;  and  forming  an  ag- 
gregate length  of  bridge- way  of  781  feet.  Taking  leave 
of  By  town  and  its  vicinity,  and  proceeding  along  the 
line  until  it  strikes  the  river,  little  of  interest  occurs, 
saving  a  singular  break  in  an  interesting  ridge  of  land, 
extending  for  several  miles  at  an  average  depth  of  about 
thirty-five  feet.     It  is  known  under  the  name  of  the 


294 


niDEAU  CANAL. 


4   ' 


f 


"  Notch  in  the  Mountain,"  and  affords  an  opportune 
passage  for  the  canal,  which  would  otherwise,  in  order 
to  pass  it,  have  had  to  encounter  a  heavy  excavation. 

At  the  point  where  the  canal  enters  the  channel  of 
the  river,  are  found  strong  rapids,  confined  on  one  side 
by  a  high  clay  bank,  and  on  the  other  by  a  rocky  shore. 
To  overcome  the  fall  existing  here,  which  is  about  30 
feet,  it  was  necessary  to  drown  the  rapids  by  the  erec- 
tion of  a  large  dam,  and  surmount  the  elevation  by 
three  locks.  This  dam  backs  the  water  as  far  as  the 
"  Black  Rapids" — to  which  point,  and  indeed  thence  all 
the  way  to  its  source  in  the  "  Rideau  Lake,"  the  chan- 
nel of  the  river  continues  to  be  used.  The  Rideau,  like 
other  rivers  in  Canada,  is  a  combination  of  rapjds  and 
long  sheets  of  still  water,  alternately  intervening,  and 
to  overcome  which  it  is  ever  necessary  to  have  recourse 
to  locks  and  dams.  There  are  fourteen  rapids  between 
Bytown  and  the  Rideau  Lake,  which  are  destroyed  by 
as  many  dams,  and  twenty  locks  of  various  lifts,  amount- 
ing in  all  to  283  feet. 

The  "  Rideau  Lake,"  which  is  the  proper  summit  of 
the  canal,  is  a  beautiful  expanse  of  clear  green  water, 
30  miles  long  and  12  broad,  surrounded  on  all  sides  by 
bold,  rocky,  and  precipitous  banks.  The  only  inter- 
ruptions which  the  navigation  encounters  across  this 
lake  are  at  "  Ohver's  Ferry"  and  the  "  Rideau  Nar- 
rows," where  considerable  extra  expense  was  incurred 
to  overcome  the  currents  there  created  by  the  contrac- 
tion of  the  waters. 

Continuing  the  use  of  the  Rideau  waters  for  the 
space  of  45  miles  on  the  summit  level  of  the  route,  its 
course  finally  bends  toward  the  "  Cataraqui  River," 


if 


-<^->. 


RIDEAU  CANAL. 


205 


(ortune 
1  order 
ition. 
nnel  of 
ne  side 
J  shore, 
bout  30 
le  erec- 
tion  by 
as  the 
ence  all 
le  chan- 
3aiJ,  like 
)ids  and 
ing,  and 
recourse 
aetween 
oyed  by 
amount- 

immit  of 
w  water, 
sides  by 
ly  inter- 
ross  this 
au  Nar- 
incurred 
contrac- 

for  the 
route,  its 
River," 


which  hag  an  outlet  in  Lake  Ontario  near  Kingston. 
An  excavation  of  10  feet  for  the  distance  of  a  mile  and 
a  half  across  the  isthmus,  existing  between  the  "  Ri- 
deau"  and  "  Mud"  lakes,  was  necessary  to  effect  this 
object.  The  latter  lake  is  3^  feet  below  the  level  of  the 
Rideau,  and  has  a  len^^th  of  1 2  miles,  with  an  average 
breadth  of  1 0,studdcd  all  over  with  innumerable  small  isl- 
ands, which  give  it  quite  a  picturesque  appearance.  It 
is  intended  eventually  to  raise  the  waters  to  the  level  of 
the  summit  lake. 

Leaving  this  lake  the  canal  enters  the  "  Indian,"  and 
thence  instead  of  making  the  long  detour  of  the  river, 
encounters  a  shallow  cut,  by  which,  in  a  more  direct 
line,  the  distance  is  considerably  shortened.  Thence 
following  the  course  of  the  "  Cataraqui"  to  within  55 
miles  of  Kingston,  a  dam  is  met  with,  backing  the  wa- 
ter as  far  as  the  last  mentioned  lake.  The  rapids  con- 
necting this  with  "  Davis'  Lake  "  on  the  risrht  side  of 
the  river,  are  surmounted  by  dams  and  locks,  so  that 
tlie  navigation  which  was  before  hazardous,  is  now  per- 
fectly safe. 

Again,  following  the  course  of  the  "Cataraqui  River" 
for  the  further  distance  of  8  miles,  and  successively  pass- 
ing "  Davis"  and  "  Opinicon"  lakes,  together  with 
their  intervening  nipids,  surmounted  as  usual  by  a  dam 
and  lock,  the  tourist  arrives  at  a  point  called  "  Jones' 
Falls,"  35  miles  from  Kingston.  These  falls  descend 
61  feet  within  the  mile,  and  connect  "  Opinicon  Lake,'j 
with  "Cranberry  Marsh,"  where  the  river  holds  its 
course  through  a  narrow  rocky  ravine.  This  fall  is 
overcome  by  a  dam  and  six  locks.  Thence,  passing 
three  more  smaller  rapids,  with  their  customary  works, 


2^6 


FKOM  MONTREAL  TO  QUEBEC. 


ii 


;i 


n  I 


k 


u 


l'^ 


^'. 


'.^  F 


the  line  at  length  reaches  "  Kingston  Mills,"  where  the 
Cataraqui  empties  itself  into  the  Kingston  Bay,  a  part 
of  Lake  Ontario,  and  5  miles  distant  from  Kingston. 
This  is  the  upper  extremity  of  the  canal  on  the  Canada 
side,  and  is  terminated  at  its  junction  with  Lake  Onta- 
rio by  the  erection  of  four  locks  of  nine  feet  each. 

The  entire  cost  of  this  canal,  which  with  the  Welland 
canal  (heretofore  noticed)  forms  a  chain  of  internal 
communication  between  Halifax  and  theGulf  of  Mexi- 
co, ;vas  rising  of  £300,000. 

FROM  MONTREAL  TO  ailEBEC— 170  miles. 

The  St.  Lawrence  from  Montreal  to  Quebec  is  navi- 
gated by  a  number  of  excellent  steam-boats,  and  the 
passage  between  the  two  cities  is  delightful.  A  large 
majority  of  the  inhabitants  of  Lower  Canada  are  crowd- 
ed together  near  the  shore?? of  the  St.  Lawrence,  and 
few  interruptions  of  forest  land  intervene  in  the  whole 
distance  between  the  two  principal  cities.  The  dwell- 
ings and  cultivated  grounds  are  so  frequent  and  con- 
tinuous, that  each  side  of  the  river,  in  fact,  becomes  al- 
most an  unbroken  street ;  with  groups  of  houses  in  the 
vicinity  of  the  several  churches,  which  are  erected  gen- 
rally  in  sight  of  the  passing  steam-boat,  except  on  Lake 
St.  Peter.  The  churches  are  from  six  to  nine  miles 
distant  from  each  other,  and  upwards  of  twenty  in  num- 
ber, forming,  many  of  them,  prominent  objects  to  give 
embellishment  and  charm  to  the  novel  and  otherwise 
very  attractive  scenery.  All  travellers  sleep  one  night 
at  least  on  board  the  steam-boat  while  jourReying  be- 
tween the  two  cities  ;  and  it  is  recommended  that  they 
should  arrange  the  hour  of  departure  from   Q^uebec, 


^II.LIAM  HENRY. 


297 


sre  the 
a  part 
crston. 
lanada 
Onta- 

• 

^elland 
nternal 
f  Mexi- 


mii.es. 

is  navi- 
ind  the 
A  large 
!  crowd- 
ice,  and 
5  whole 
e  dwell- 
nd  con- 
fines al- 

s  in  the 
ted  gen- 
on  Lake 
le  miles 

in  num- 
s  to  give 
itherwise 
ne  night 
sying  be- 
that  they 

duebec, 


■:; 


(which  is  always  at  low  water)  so  that  I  hey  may  view 
by  day-liglit  that  part  of  the  river  which  had  been  be- 
fore passed  in  the  night.  A  journey  to  Cluebec  and 
back  a»ain,  which  a  few  years  since  was  the  labor 
of  some  weeks,  may  now  be  accomplished,  by  means 
of  steam-boats,  in  less  than  three  days.  The  distance 
between  the  two  cities  is  1 70  miles. 

From  Montreal,  the  boat  first  passes  near  the  Fort 
on  the  St.  Helen's  Island  and  soon  enters  the  rapids  of 
St.  Mary  ;  in  returning  up  which,  steamboats  are  often 
drawn  by  cattle.  Proceeding  down  the  river,  the  vil- 
lages of  Longueil,  Longue  Pointe,  Vercheres,  Varennes, 
Point  aux  Trembles,  Contrecoeur,  Repentigny,  St.  Sul- 
pice.  La  Morage,  Berthier  and  Machiche  are  succes- 
sively passed,  before  reaching  the  town  of 

William  Henrt,  which  is  40  miles  from  Montreal. 
It  stands  on  the  site  of  an  old  fort,  built  in  1665,  on 
the  right  bank  of  the  river  Sorel,  at  its  confluence  with 
the  St.  Lawrence.  The  present  town  was  commenc- 
ed in  1785.  It  is  regularly  laid  out  with  streets,  cross- 
ing each  other  at  right  angles,  leaving  a  space  in  the 
centre  about  500  f jet  square.  The  number  of  dwell- 
ings does  not  exceed  200,  and  its  population  2000. 
Near  the  town  is  a  seat  which  was  formerly  the  resi- 
dence of  the  Governor  General  of  Canada,  during  the 
summer  months.  Opposite  the  town,  the  river  Sorel 
is  250  yards  broad,  and  is  navigable  for  vessels  of  150 
tons,  for  twelve  or  fourteen  miles.  On  this  river,  which 
unites  the  waters  of  Lake  Champlain  with  the  St.  Law- 
rence, are  two  considerable  forts,  the  one  at  St.  John's 
and  the   other   at  Chambly.     Sorel  was   occupied  iri 


298 


THREE  RIVERS. 


IJ     1       [i 


it\ 


;  ^ 


May,   1776,  by  a  part  of  the  American  army,  under 
General  Thomas,  on  their  retreat  from  U,uebcc. 

Lake  ft.  Peter,  some  miles  below  the  town  of  Sorel, 
is  formed  by  an  expansion  of  the  river  St.  Lawrence,  to 
15  or  JiO  miles  in  widtii,  and  21  in  length.  The  waters 
of  the  lake  have  hut  litlle  current,  and  are  from  8  to  1 1 
feet  do(;p.  At  tlio  upper  end  of  the  lake  a  variety  of 
small  islands  are  intcrsporf<ed,  wliich  arc  the  only  ones 
that  occur  in  the  St.  Lawrence  till  you  reach  the  island 
of  Orleans,  a  distance  of  117  miles.  On  the  north  side 
of  this  lake  is  the  town  of 

Three  Rivers,  at  the  mouth  of  the  St.  Maurice, 
which  is  divided  by  two  small  islands  into  three  branch- 
es. This  town  was  formerly  the  seat  of  the  Colonial 
Government,  and  is  now  considered  the  third  in  im- 
portance in  the  Province.  It  contains  about  400  houses, 
including  a  Roman  Catholic  and  an  Episcopal  church, 
and  a  Convent  of  Ursulines — also  the  barracks  former- 
ly occupied  by  the  governor,  during  the  French  regime. 
The  number  of  inhabitants  is  estimated  at  3000.  Some 
miles  up  the  St.  IMaurice  are  the  celebrated  falls  of 
Shawinnegame,  a  beautiful  cataract  of  about  100  feet 
descent. 

Seven  miles  below  Three  Rivers,  the  Richelieu  rapids 
commence.  The  river  is  compressed  within  less  than 
half  a  mile  in  width,  and  the  water  moves  with  great 
velocity  for  three  or  four  miles  ;  but  being  deep  and 
the  current  unbroken,  except  at  the  shores,  the  descent 
is  made  by  steam-boats  without  danger,  except  in  the 
night,  when  a  descent  is  never  attempted. 

The  scenery  of  the  St.  Lawrence  is  occasionally  re- 
lieved  by  the  prospect  of  the  distant  mountains,  the 


I 


I,-:. 


qUF.DRC. 


299 


,  under 

■ 

)fSorel, 
•ence,  to 
;  waters 
I  8  to  1 1 
iriety  of 
uly  ones 
le  island 
orth  side 

Maurice, 
D  branch- 
Colonial 
d  in  im- 
0  houses, 
A  church, 
s  former- 
h  regime. 
[).  Some 
i  falls  of 
100  feet 

eu  rapids 
less  than 
A  ith  great 
deep  and 
le  descent 
3pt  in  the 

ionally  re- 
itains,  the 


highest  of  which  does  not  exceed  1000  feet,  but  risinjr 
in  the  bark  ground  of  the  cultivated  vales  along  tho 
borders  of  the  river,  give  an  additional  degree  of  beauty 
and  novelty  to  many  of  its  landscapes.  The  alternate 
variety  of  the  waters  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  now  repoa- 
mg  in  stillness  on  the  bosom  of  an  expanded  lake,  and 
now  rushing  with  the  rapidity  of  a  cataract,  added  to 
the  pleasing  effect  of  the  landscape  scenery,  afford  an 
agreeable  repast  to  tho  tourist,  until  he  reaches  the 
classic  scenes  of  Q,ucbec.  Soon  after  leaving  Cape 
Rouge,  and  the  little  village  'of  St.  Nicholas,  near  the 
mouth  of  the  Chaudiere  river,  the  towers  and  citadel  of 
this  famous  city  open  to  view,  situated  on  a  rock  of  345 
feet  in  height,  called  Cape  Diamond,  from  the  gem-like 
quality  of  the  chrystals  which  are  found  intermingled 
with  the  granite  beneath  its  surface.  In  approaching 
the  city,  you  pass  Sillery  River  and  Cove,  and  Wolfe's 
Cove,  where  he  landed  his  army  to  gain  the  heights 
of  Abraham,  about  Ij  miles  from  duebec.  Point  Levi 
appears  on  the  right,  a  rocky  precipice,  covered  with 
white  dwellings,  and  commanding  the  citadel  of  Gtue- 
bec  from  the  opposite  shore. 

aUEBEC* 

Is  situated  upon  a  high  peninsular  point  of  land,  at 
the  confluence  of  the  Rivers  St.  Lawrence  and  St. 
Charles,  the  junction  of  which  forms  a  capacious  and 
beautiful  bay  and  harbour. 


*  For  a  description  of  this  place,  the  writer  is  princi- 
pally indebted  to  the  "  Picture  of  Ctuebec,"  recently 
published  in  that  city. 

aa2 


(t 


rf^ 


ifitfm 


I 


I' 


^! 


V   I 


3U0 


QUEBEC. 


From  the  New  Exchange  at  the  extremity  of  the 
point  on  the  north-east,  the  Hmits  of  the  city  jurindio 
tion  extend  in  a  direct  line  about  north-west  to  a  bend 
in  the  St.  Charles  River,  near  the  General  Hospital. 
On  the  St.  Lawronoe  River  the  south-west  point  of  the 
Banlieu  is  about  cqu'-di^tant  from  the  KxchaniK^,  the 
whole  plat  approximating  to  a  trianirle,  the  lonn^est  side 
of  which  passes  a  short  distance  to  the  west  of  the  Mar- 
tello  Towers,  measuring  one  mile  and  five  fuvlonirs  or 
2869  yards  from  the  St.  Charles  to  the  St.  Lawrence. 

A  straiirlit  line  drawn  from  one  river  to  the  other,  at 
the  Barrier  on  the  south  and  west,  is  rather  more  than 
a  mile  in  length,  and  the  whole  wall  is  two  miles  and 
three  quarters  in  circuit ;  but  including  the  Citadel,  the 
Esplanade,  the  diffi'rent  large  gardens,  and  other  va- 
cant spaces,  a  considerable  pro])ortion  cf  the  interior 
area  W'ilhin  the  fortification  remains  unoccupied  for 
buildings.  t 

The  city  and  environs  are  th  "  subdivided  :  That 
part  which  is  within  the  walls  is  called  the  Upper 
Town,  and  can  be  approached  solely  by  five  gates.  On 
the  eastern  side  of  the  Cape  towards  the  St.  Lawrence, 
there  is  only  one  avenue  to  enter  it,  by  a  circuitous 
steep  hill,  through  Prescott  Gate;  wliich  is  the  chief 
thoroughfare  for  all  the  commercial  business  of  the 
port  especially  during  the  navigal)le  season,  and  then 
Mountain  street,  as  this  rout<3  is  named,  presents  the 
appearance  of  a  crowded  and  active  population.  On 
the  north  of  the  city,  and  where  the  promontory  has 
considerably  declined  in  height,  there  are  two  entran- 
ces— Hope  Gate,  not  far  from  the  eastern  extremity  of 
the  rampart,  and  Palace  Gate  adjoining  the  Armoury 


i 


1 


« 


Qi'nnFc. 


301 


y  ot*  the 
juriwdio 
o  a  bend 
[lospital. 
nt  of  the 
[inpo,  the 
idTPt  side 
the  Mar- 
vlonfrs  or 
rronce. 
otiier,  at 
norc  than 
miles  and 
tad  el,  the 
other  va- 
e  interior 
upied   for 

d:  That 
le  Upper 
ites.     On 
awrence, 
circuitous 
the  chief 
ss  of  the 
and  then 
sents  the 
ion.     On 
ntory  has 
o  entran- 
tremity  of 
Armoury 


I 


and  the  Artillery  Barmckfl.  'I'hese  gates  are  on  tl^at 
flide  of  the  city  which  is  washed  by  the  St.  Charles 
From  the  land  there  are  two  avenues  to  the  interior  of 
the  fortifications  :  that  to  the  east  is  known  as  the  St. 
Louis  Gate,  which  conducts  by  a  beautiful  road  to  the 
Plains  of  Abraham  ;  the  other  is  at  the  end  of  St.  John 
street,  and  thence  denominated  St.  Johs's  Gate.  1  his 
is  the  route  through  which  the  chief  part  of  the  country 
trade  passes. 

The  longr  street  from  the  tr-rmination  of  the  Banl'Mi 
on  the  south-west,  upon  the  St.  Lawrence,  skirtinc  the 
Cape  round  to  tlie  Wood  Yard  belonging  to  the  Gov- 
ernment, including  Mountain  street  to  the  Presrott 
Gate,  and  all  the  other  shorter  streets  between  the  hill 
and  the  river,  are  generally  denominated  the  Lower 
Town.  The  portion  b.'rtween  the  road  outside  of  the 
Gate  of  St.  Louis  and  that  of  St.  John  street,  to  the 
line  of  the  Banlicu,  is  called  tiie  suburbs  of  St.  Louis. 
From  St.  John  street  northerly  to  the  Cote  St.  Gene- 
vieve, and  returning  to  the  end  of  the  Banlieu,  all  the 
buildings  are  included  in  the  St.  John  suburbs  ;  and 
the  large  district  extending  from  the  Wood  Yard  along 
by  the  foot  of  the  hill  to  the  western  extremity  of  the 
Banlieu,  and  bounded  on  the  north-west  by  the  St. 
Charles  River,  bears  the  appellation  of  the  suburbs  of 
St.  Roch. 

As  travellers  are  generally  restricted  to  time,  they 
have  often  failed  to  gratify  their  curiosity  for  want  of  a 
directory  or  guide,  by  which  they  might  with  the  great- 
est facility  view  the  most  important  objects,  and  also 
from  not  having  previously  obtained  a  letter  of  intro- 
duction to  some  respectable  citizen  who  would  accom- 


^mttii^. 


n 


i 


i  i 
'f 

I 


- 


^ih 


1i- 


I 


^1 


302 


Qunnp.( . 


pany  t|;icm  in  thoir  explorations.  To  rcniovo  these  ob- 
stacles, the  following  nietho(henl  plan  of  nn  excursion 
throujSfh  the  city,  and  the  accomi)anyin£j  descriptions 
are  ^iven.  They  will  be  found  to  be  accurate,  and  will 
save  the  tourist  from  innumerable  perplexiticji,  to  which 
he  would  otherwise  be  subjeeted. 

Taking  the  Upper  Town  Market-House  a?,  the  plnce 
of  departure,  the  observer  has  on  the  west  the  ancient 
Monastery  of  the  Jesuits,  now  used  as  the  Bairacks 
for  the  troops  of  the  gnrrison.  It  is  a  capacious  quad- 
rangular edifice  of  75  yards  by  67,  encircled  by  a  wall 
which  measures  on  the  north  the  whole  IttUjirth  of  Fab- 
rique  street,  and  more  than  200  yards  on  St.  Anne  st. 
The  area  enclosed,  and  which  now  is  appropriated  for 
the  parades  and  exercise  of  the  troops,  was  formerly 
an  elegant  garden.  Fronting  on  the  east  side  of  Mar- 
ket-Place  is  the  principal 

Ranwu  Catholic  Churchy  which  is  open  nearly  the 
whole  hours  of  day-light.  It  is  a  massive  unornament- 
ed  and  spacious  stone  buildin":.  From  the  vestibule, 
the  body  of  the  interior  is  subdivided  into  equal  pro- 
portions. At  the  termination  >!'  the  nave  is  the  grand 
altar  in  the  middle  of  the  ellipse  constituting  the  sanc- 
tum, the  walls  of  which  arc  ornamented  with  represen- 
tations and  figures,  commiiiglcd  with  various  other 
graphical  emblems.  Among  the  pictures  are  the  con- 
ception— the  Apostle  Paul  in  his  extatic  vision — the 
Saviour  ministered  unto  by  angels — the  flight  of  Jo- 
seph and  Mary — the  Redeemer  and  the  cross — the  na- 
tivity of  Christ — the  Saviour  under  the  contumelious 
outrages  of  the  soldiers — the  day  of  Pentecost — and  the 
Holy  Family.     During  the  aeige  of  Cluebee,  in  1759, 


a 


P 


Qt'K.ni'.f 


303 


;h('9C  ob- 
»xc\Hsion 
criptions 
,  and  will 
,  to  which 

thr  pi  nee 
e  annenl 
Batrarks 
Diis  quad- 
by  a  wall 
b  of  V'ab- 
.  Anne  &t. 
pviatcd  for 
I  formerly 
le  of  Mar- 

oarly  the 
ornament- 
vestibule, 
qual  pro- 
tbe  grand 
the  sanc- 
represen- 
lous  other 
e  the  con- 
ision — the 
^ht  of  Jo- 
s — the  na- 
ntumelious 
t — and  the 
■e,  in  1759, 


tliiH  church  waB  Hct  on  fire  by  shells  discharged  from  a 
battery  on  Point  Ij<vi,  and  all  the  paintings  and  orna- 
ments consumed  except  the  first  above  mentioned, 
which  was  afterwards  found  among  the  ruins.  I'hg 
avenue  north  of  the  church  conducts  tlic  tourist  to 

The  Scniinani,  a  cupaciouH  Huporstructure  of  stone, 
in  the  form  of  a  parallcloirram.  It  is  encircled  by  a 
large  garden,  walled  in,  measiuing  in  the  whole  about 
seven  acres.  This  instil ul ion  was  established  in  1C63, 
and  was  originally  designed  for  the  education  of  eccle- 
siastics ;  but  this  exclusive  system  was  long  since 
abandoned,  and  it  is  now  open  for  the  reception  of  all 
who  comply  with  its  regulations.  Attached  to  the 
Seminary  is  a  museum  of  natural  curiosities  ;  and  on 
the  left  of  the  grand  entrance  from  Market-Place  is 
the  vestibule  of  the  chapel,  in  which  are  a  great  varie- 
ty  of  sacred  paintings.  From  this  the  tourist  can  pro- 
ceed to  the  church  ;  and  from  thence  to  the 

Place  d\lrmcs,  where  on  the  east  of  the  Pentagon  is 
the  Castle  of  St.  Lewis,  the  residence  of  the  Governor, 
and  which  from  its  peculiar  situation,  constitutes  one  of 
the  principal  objects  of  notice  in  all  views  of  the  city, 
from  Beaufort  easterly  to  the  Chaudiere.  At  its  base, 
the  rock  is  nearly  200  feet  in  perpendicular  height,  and 
the  building  on  the  east  is  sustained  bv  strong  stone 
buttresses,  on  which  is  laid  a  wide  balcony  extending 
along  the  whole  length,  and  whence  the  beauties  of 
the  northern  and  eastern  landcape  are  beheld.  The 
building  is  three  stories  high,  and  about  160  feet  long  ; 
and  attached  to  it  are  several  buildings  containing  tha 
public  officeg.  On  the  west  corner  of  the  Place  d'Armea 
stood  the  Episcopal  church,  which  was  burnt  3  or  4 


jmim.. 


l«i*H«<MH 


304 


QUE  ore. 


r»  ill 


t^ 


years  since.     On  tlie  south  side,  and  ncaily  adjoining, 
18  the 

Court  IIousCj  a  plairj  neat  building  of  stone  about 
1 40  feet  long,  and  as  many  broad.  It  stands  where  once 
stood  a  church  belonging  to  the  order  of  the  Recollets, 
which  was  burnt  in  1796. 

On  the  corner  of  Fort  street,  south  of  the  castle  of 
St.  Lewis,  is  a  large  building  used  for  public  offices,  the 
front  room  of  which,  on  the  first  story,  contains  the 
J^aseum  of  the  "  Society  for  promoting  Literature,  Sci- 
ence, Arts  and  Historical  research  in  Canada."  A  visit 
to  it  will  prove  extremely  interesting.  Crossing  the 
Place  d'Armes  to  Des  Carriercs  street,  the  visitor  will 
next  inspect  the 

Monumentf  erected  in  memory  of  Wolf  and  Mont- 
calm. This  consists  of  a  base  and  a  pillar,  surmount- 
ed by  a  vignette  of  graphic  delineation.  The  base  is 
about  6  by  5  feet,  and  the  whole  height  of  the  monu- 
ment is  sixty-five  feet.  It  contains  two  Latin  inscrip- 
tions. After  viewing  from  the  promenade  at  the  exte- 
rior of  the  Governor's  quarters  the  beauteous  landscape 
diverging  to  the  north-east,  the  visitor  will  return  to  St. 
Lewis  street,  where,  after  passing  the  office  of  the 
Commissariat,  he  will  turn  b)'^  Parloir  street,  to  the 

Ursuline  JSTiinnery  and  Church.  This  Nunnery  and 
the  land  adjoining  it  occupy  a  space  of  about  seven 
acres  which  is  surrounded  by  a  high  barrier  of  stone. 
The  institution  was  founded  in  1639,  and  the  edifice, 
which  is  of  stone,  is  two  stories  high,  114  feet  long, 
and  about  40  broad.  At  the  east  projection  is  the 
chapel,  about  100  feet  long  and  50  in  breadth,  the  inte- 
rior of  which  is  highly  decorated.     The  convent  is  neat 


n« 


QUF.BEC. 


305 


nc  abo\»t 
bere  once 
:iecollet8, 

;  castle  of 
>ffices,  the 
itains  the 
iture,  Sci- 
,"  A  visit 
3ssing  the 
visitor  will 

md  Mont- 
surmount- 
he  base  is 
the  monu- 
:in  inscrip- 
tt  the  exte- 
landscape 

it  urn  to  St. 
ace  of  the 
^,  to  the 
[unnery  and 
bout  seven 
ler  of  stone, 
the  edifice, 

feet  long, 
tion  is  the 
th,  the  inte- 

ent  is  neat 


and  inchidos  a  superior,  42  assiHtnnts  and  7  novices, 
the  chief  employment  of  whom  is  the  tuition  of  a  large 
number  of  girls  in  common  knowledge  and  other  quali- 
fications. They  are  more  rigid  and  retired  than  the 
inmates  of  any  other  conventual  institution  in  Canada. 
Persons  of  distinction  only  are  permitted  to  examine 
the  domestic  departments  ;  but  the  Chaplain,  whose 
apartments  are  on  the  right  of  the  entrance,  permits 
strangers  to  examine  the  church  on  application  to  him. 
Among  the  paintings  there  exhibited,  are  the  portraits 
of  some  of  the  Popes — the  birth  of  Immanuel — the  Sa- 
viour exhibiting  his  heart  to  the  Religieuses — the  Sa- 
viour taken  down  from  the  cross — a  cargo  of  Christians 
captured  by  the  Algerines — Louis  xiii.  of  France — and 
several  devices  taken  from  the  scriptures.  The  altars 
are  highly  ornamented  and  imposing. 

Leaving  the  nunnery,  the  visitor  will  next  procred  by 
Anne  street,  with  the  south  wing  of  the  barracks  on 
his  right  to  the  Presbyterian  Church.  Passing  its  front 
he  will  leave  the  jail  on  the  right,  where  he  pursues 
his  course  to  the 

Esplanade.  If  ho  has  no  citizm  as  a  compnnion,  and 
no  other  mode  of  visiting  the  fortification,  he  should 
turn  up  St.  Ursule  to  St.  Louis  street,  and  at  the  mili- 
tary offices  request  from  the  adjutant  general  a  card  of 
admission  to  walk  round  the  interior  of  the 

Citadel.  This  stupenduous  fortress  circumscribes  the 
whole  area  on  the  highest  part  of  Cape  Diamond,  and 
is  intended  not  only  to  accommodate  the  garrison  as  a 
residence,  parade,  &c.  but  also  to  include  all  the  mate- 
riel of  war.  Tt  perfectly  commands  the  city  and  riv<?r 
St.  Lawrence ;  and  when  completpfl  will  be  not  only 


^1 


306 


<5UEBEC. 


the  most  powerful  specimen  of  military  architecture  on 
the  western  continent,  but  also  a  rival  of  many  of  the 
renowned  works  in  the  Netherlands.  All  attempts  to 
describe  the  Citadel  in  its  present  unfinished  state  would 
be  nugatory. 

Having  entered  the  grand  western  gate,  where  the 
visitor  leaves  his  ticket  with  the  soldier  on  guard,  and 
examined  the  edifice,  he  will  first  proceed  round  the 
course  of  the  Citadel  to  the  flag  staff  and  telegraph  ; 
thence  southerly  by  the  parapet  bordering  on  the  river 
to  the  machinery  at  the  head  of  the  rail-way,  or  in- 
clined plane,  which  is  500  feet  long,  extending  from 
the  wharf  to  the  Cape,  where  its  perpendicular  eleva- 
tion is  345  feet  above  the  stream.  This  rail-way  is  used 
by  the  government  alone,  to  convey  stones  and  other 
articles  of  great  weight  and  bulk,  for  the  erection  of  the 
new  fortress. 

Having  surveyed  from  the  highest  point  the  majes- 
tic scene  in  every  diversified  aspect  of  hill  and  dale, 
land  and  water,  the  visitor  will  follow  the  course  of  the 
wall  on  his  left  hand,  until  he  returns  to  the  same  gate, 
and  pursue  his  walk  by  it,  over  St.  Louis  gate  along 
the  Esplanade,  until  he  arrives  opposite  the  church  of 
the  Congreganistes,  immediately  below  which  is  the 
national  school  house. 

Proceeding  along  St.  John  street,  he  will  turn  north 
of  St.  Stanislaus  street,  on  the  east  side  of  which  stands 
Trinity  chapel,  whence  crossing  Carleton  street,  he 
arrives  at  the  artillery  barracks  and  the  armoury — the 
latter  of  which  may  be  inspected,  if  a  resident  of  the 
city  be  in  company. 


<ILEBLC. 


307 


re  on 
)f  the 
pts  to 
ivould 

re  the 
d,  and 
id  the 
Traph ; 
le  river 
or  in- 
cr  from 
■  eleva- 
is  used 
d  other 
n  of  the 

majes- 
id  dale, 
of  the 
le  gate, 

along 
lurch  of 

is  the 

n  north 

stands 

eet,  he 

ry — the 

of  the 


Opposite  the  armoury  is  tlie  anatomical  room  of  the 
medical  society.  Thence  walking  up  Palace  street,  on 
the  right  hand  is  St.  Helen  street,  where  is  Mr,  Chas- 
seur's natural  museum.  Returning  into  Palace  street, 
the  visitor  crosses  obliquely  above  to  Collins'  Lane,  in 
which  stands  on  the  left,  the 

Chapel  of  the  Hotel  Dieu.  These  premises  include  a 
large  proportion  of  the  northern  part  of  the  interior  of 
the  city — commencing  from  the  gate  of  the  burial  ground 
on  Couillard  street,  and  extending  to  Palace  street, 
with  a  wall  on  the  north,  parallel  to  the  fortifications  ; 
the  whole  space  occupying  about  twelve  acres.  This 
institution  was  commenced  in  1637,  under  the  auspices 
of  the  Duchess  of  Aiguillon,  and  was  consecrated  to 
the  reception  and  care  of  the  sick,  who  are  indigent 
and  distressed.  It  is  a  capacious  edifice,  the  longest 
portion  of  ^^  hich  extends  nearly  one  hundred  and  thirty 
yards  by  t  venteen  in  depth,  and  three  stories  high. 
On  the  north-west  side  from  the  centre,  a  range  is  erect- 
ed two  stories  high,  fifty  yards  in  length,  and  nearly  as 
many  feet  broad,  plain  and  unadorned.  This  wing  is 
appropriated  for  the  patients  ;  the  upper  story  of  which 
is  occupied  by  the  females.  All  proper  attendance  both 
from  the  nuns  and  physicians,  with  every  necessary 
comfort,  is  gratuitously  administered. 

In  the  convent  the  sisterhood  reside,  who  now  include 
the  superieure,  thirty-three  religeuses  professes,  two  no- 
vices and  one  postulante.  The  regularity,  neatness 
and  purity  with  which  the  establishment  is  conducted, 
and  the  solace  of  the  wretched  who  find  refuge  in  this 
hospitable  domain,  are  highly  exemplary. 

BB 


■UiiaiH 


303 


qU  KBF.t. 


t 


The  church  of  the  Hotel  Dieii,  externally,  is  perfect- 
ly plain,  and  the  interior  is  little  adorned.  The  paint- 
ings may  be  examined  upon  application  to  the  chaplain. 

Having  completed  an  examination  of  the  Hotel  Dieu, 
with  the  surrounding  garden,  the  visitor  may  next  fol- 
low Couillard,  St.  Joachin  and  St.  George's  streets  to 
the  Grand  Battery  and  the  ancient  palace  of  the  Catho- 
lic bishop,  now  used  by  the  provincial  parliament ;  or 
he  can  return  to  Palace  street,  and  continue  his  pro- 
gress to  the  gate,  where,  by  passing  the  guard  house 
and  pursuing  his  walk  easterly,  he  may  accurately  un- 
derstand the  nature  of  the  defence  which  the  city  can 
make  against  external  assault. 

The  first  house  at  which  he  arrives  is  distinguished 
as  the  residence  of  the  renowned  Montcalm.  There  he 
may  turn  to  the  right  which  will  lead  him  to  Couillard 
street,  or  he  can  continue  his  walk  passing  Hope  Gate, 
until  he  arrives  at  the  Look-out  from  the  north-east 
platform  of  the  battery. 

In  the  lower  town,  the  only  objects  which  merit  no- 
tice, besides  the  inclined  plain  or  rail-way  to  the  Cita- 
del, are  the  Exchange  Reading  Room,  and  the  Ctuebec 
Library,  which  are  always  open  for  the  admission  of 
strangers,  if  regularly  introduced,  and  are  worthy  of 
inspection. 

About  one  hundred  yards  from  the  lower  end  of  the 
rail-way,  General  Montgomery  and  his  aids  with  other 
men  were  killed  on  the  morning  of  December  31,  1775, 
when  proceeding  to  the  assault  of  Cluebec.  The  place 
may  be  easily  recognized,  notwithstanding  the  altera- 
tions which  have  occurred.  At  that  period,  a  narrow 
path  only  was  made  between  the  foot  of  the  hill  and 


(tllEbfc'.C. 


309 


perfcft- 
le  paint- 
chaplain. 
»tel  Dieu, 

next  fol- 
streets  to 
t\e  Catho- 
ment;  or 
e  his  pro- 
ard  house 
irately  un- 
le  city  can 

stinguished 

There  he 

0  Couillard 

^lope  Gate, 

north-east 

h  merit  no- 
lo the  Cita- 
the  auebec 
dmission  of 
worthy  of 

■r  end  of  the 
la  with  other 
ber  31, 1V75, 
The  place 
the  altera- 
l^d,  a  narrow 
the  hiU  and 


the  river,  so  that  vessels  were  fastened  to  the  rock  by 
large  iron  bolts,  one  of  which  still  remains,  near  thtJ 
very  spot  where  the  American  General  and  his  ad- 
vanced party  were  discomfited.  The  wharves,  houses, 
&c.  all  have  been  long  since  constructed.  At  the  top 
of  the  small  ascent  on  the  street  immediately  below, 
the  small  battery  had  been  erected,  near  the  plat  where 
the  southerly  forge  is  now  stationed.  As  Montgomery 
led  on  the  attack,  the  British  retreated  before  him.  In 
passing  round  Cape  Diamond,  the  ice  and  projecting 
rocks  rendered  it  necessary  for  the  Americans  to  press 
forward  in  a  narro^  file,  until  they  arrived  at  the  block 
house  and  picket.  The  General  was  himself  in  front, 
and  assisted  with  his  own  hands  to  cut  down  and  pull 
up  the  picket.  The  roughness  of  the  way  had  so 
lengthened  his  line  of  march,  that  he  was  obliged  to 
wait  for  a  force  to  come  up  before  he  could  proceed. 
Having  re-assembled  about  200  men,  he  advanced 
boldly  and  rapidly  at  their  head  to  force  the  barrier. 
One  or  two  of  the  enemy  had  by  this  time  ventured  to 
return  to  the  battery,  and  seeing  a  match  standing  by 
one  of  the  guns,  touched  it  ofT,  when  the  American 
force  was  within  forty  paces  of  it.  This  single  and  ac- 
cidental fire  struck  down  General  Montgomery  and  his 
aids.  Captain  M'Pb^rson  and  Captain  Cheesman. 

The  remains  of  Montgomery  were  interred  by  a  sol- 
dier of  the  name  of  Thompson  within  a  wall  that  sur- 
rounded a  powder  magazine  near  the  ramparts  bound- 
ing on  St.  Lewis'  gate  ;  and  in  1818  were  removed  to 
New-York,  where  they  were  deposited  beneath  a  mon- 
ument in  front  of  St.  Paul's  church. 


.rc'i 


310 


PLAINS  OF  ABRAHAM, 


I  m 


If 


ii- 


!!■ 


The  Plains  of  Adraiiam  lio  south  and  west  ot'CXun- 
bec.     Tlie  visitor,  on  leaving  St.  Lous  fixate,  should  turn 
up  the  stairs  to  the  Glacis,  continue  his  course  under 
the  citadel,  and  pursue  a  path  to  the  right.     At  the 
termination  of  the  enclosure,  the  bank  is  ascended  to 
the  Plains  of  Abraham,  near  the  spot  where  Wolfe  died. 
The  large  house  at  a  distance  in  the  front  is  erected  on 
the  scite  of  a  French  redoubt,  which  defended  the  as- 
cent from  Wolfe's  Cove,  and  was  the  primary  object  of 
assault  and  capture,  after  the  top  of  the  hill  had  been 
gained  by  the  British  troops.     The  precipice  at  the 
Cove,  from  150  to  200  feet  in  height^ and  full  of  projec- 
tions of  rocks  and  trees,  seemed  to  be  rendered  almost 
inaccessible.    General  Wolfe,  however,  with  unparal- 
leled fortitude,  led  the  way  in  the  night  (Sept.  12, 1759) 
through  a  narrow  path  winding  obliquely  up  the  hill, 
which,  with  the  assistance  of  boughs  and  stumps,  en{  - 
bled  him  and  his  troops  to  gain  the  summit.    Here,  hj 
day-light  the  next  morning,  th^y  were  formed  in  line  oH 
battle,  in  readiness  to  meet  the  enemy. 

General  Montcalm,  on  receiving  information  that 
the  British  had  possession  of  the  heights,  broke  up  his 
camp  at  Beaufort,  crossed  the  St.  Charles  river,  and  at 
about  10  o'clock  in  the  morning  commenced  the  attack. 
After  a  desperate  struggle  of  about  two  hours,  in  which 
both  commanders  had  been  mortally  wounded,  the 
French  gave  way,  and  left  the  field  in  possession  of  the 
victors. 

Wolfe  fell  at  the  critical  moment  that  decided  the 
victory.  He  was  wounded  in  the  early  part  of  the  en- 
gagement by  a  bullet  in  his  wrist — soon  after  by  a  ball 
which  passed  through  his  groin — and  it  was  not  until  a 


KAI.I.S   Ui'   MON  1  MUKENlI. 


:ui 


CLuc- 
1  turn 
under 
Lt  the 
dcd  to 
3  died, 
ted  on 
;he  as- 
pect of 
d  been 
at  the 
projec- 
almost 
nparal- 
!,  1759) 
he  hill, 
)s,  en?  - 
ere,  b/ 
line  0^ 

)n  that 

up  his 

and  at 

attack. 

which 

led,  the 

\\  of  the 

led  the 

I  the  en- 

a  ball 

until  a 


third  had  pierced  liis  br<'ast,  that  h»'  suflLrt'd  himself  to 
be  carried  from  the  field.  *'I  die  happy,'*  wa&  his  ex- 
clamation, when  in  the  arms  of  death  ho  iieard  the  joy- 
ful shouts  of  victory. 

The  Martello  ToiverSy  consisting  of  four  circular  forts, 
are  situated  at  the  northern  extremity  of  the  Plains  of 
Abraham,  about  half  a  mile  in  advance  of  the  exterior 
grand  wall  of  the  fortifications.  They  are  numbered 
from  the  river  St.  Lawrence  to  the  General  Hospital, 
and  guard  the  approaches  to  the  city  on  the  south  and 
west.  They  are  nearly  40  feet  in  height,  with  a  base 
diameter  almost  equal ;  and  the  exterior  wall  is  of  am- 
ple strength  to  resist  a  cannonade. 

Gluebec,  like  Montreal,  suffered  severely  from  the 
Asiatic  cholera  in  the  summer  of  1832.  From  the 
commencement  of  the  disease  in  June,  until  its  termi- 
nation about  the  first  of  September,  it  is  estimated  there 
were  not  less  than  2,500  deaths  ;  being  equal  to  about 
one  tenth  of  its  population. 

The  Falls  of  Montmorenci,  are  situated  about  8 
miles  north-east  of  Ctuebec,  on  the  river  of  the  same 
name,  near  its  junction  with  the  St.  Lawrence.  These 
falls  pour  over  a  perpendicular  precipice  240  feet  in 
height,  and  may  almost  compare  in  beauty  and  gran- 
deur with  the  cataract  of  Niaofara. 

The  effect  from  the  summit  of  the  cliff*  is  awfully 
grand  and  sublime.  The  prodigious  depth  of  the  de- 
scent of  the  waters  of  this  surprising  fall ;  the  bright- 
ness and  volubility  of  their  course ;  the  swiftness  of 
their  movement  through  the  air  ;  and  tlie  loud  and  hol- 
low noise  emitted  from  the  basin,  swelling  with  inces- 
sant agitation  from  the  weight  of  the  dashin<T  waters, 

bb2 


iW 


I " 


I  ;H 


li'iliiH 


ill! 


fii;: 


hi; 


i 


ii! 


iii! 


812 


FALLS  OF  MONTMORENCI. 


forcibly  combine  to  attract  tlio  uttentioii,  and  to  impress 
the  mind  of  the  spectator  with  sentiments  of  grandeur 
and  elevation.  The  breadth  of  the  fall  is  100  feet ;  and 
the  basin,  which  is  bounded  by  steep  clifla,  forms  an 
angle  of  forty-five  degrees.  When  viewed  from  the 
beach,  the  cataract  is  seen,  with  resplendent  beauty,  to 
flow  down  the  gloomy  precipice,  the  summit  of  which 
is  crowded  with  woods.  The  difiusion  of  the  stream, 
to  the  breadth  of  1,500  feet,  and  the  various  small  cas- 
cades produced  by  the  inequalities  of  its  rocky  bed,  on 
its  way  to  the  St.  Lawrence,  display  a  very  singular 
and  pleasing  combination. 

Remains  of  entrenchments  and  fortifications  erected 
during  the  French  war  are  still  to  be  seen  near  the  falli?. 
A  battery  occupied  by  Gen.  Wolfe,  in  June,  1759,  on 
the  precipice  north-east  of  the  falls,  is  yet  visible.  The 
French  occupied  the  opposite  bank ;  and  Wolfe  at- 
tempted to  storm  their  works  by  fording  the  river  be- 
low the  falls  and  ascending  the  heights.  Without 
forming  in  a  regular  manner,  and  without  waiting  for 
additional  reinforcements  which  were  on  their  way  from 
Point  Levi,  Wolte's  men  rashly  ascended  the  hill, 
eager  for  the  onset,  and  were  cut  down  by  the  French 
artillery  and  musquetry,  and  obliged  to  retreat.  The 
English  loss  was  about  500  ;  while  that  of  the  French 
was  trifling.  A  storm  coming  on,  further  attempts  to 
dislodge  the  French  were  abandoned.  The  British  af- 
terwards ascended  the  river,  and  the  action  on  the 
Plains  of  Abraham,  which  has  already  been  noticed, 
took  place  in  the  month  of  September  following. 

There  are  three  points  which  aflbrd  the  best  views  of 
the  Falls.      1.  From  the  upper  window  of  the  mill, 


t 
t 
b 
ii 


I'AI-I.S  or  MONTMOhF.Nt  I. 


313 


» imprcBs 
grandeur 
uet ;  and 
forms  an 
from  tho 
)eauty,  to 
of  which 

0  stream, 
^rnall  cas- 
y  bed,  on 

1  singular 

19  erected 
r  the  falls'. 
,  1759,  on 
ble.    The 
^olfe  at- 
river  be- 
Without 
vaiting  for 
way  from 
the  hill, 
he  French 
eat.    The 
he  French 
ttempts  to 
British  af- 
jn  on  the 
n  noticed, 

ing. 

it  views  of 
the  mill, 


whence  tlic  projoctiii^  loup  in  snfdy  no.vw.  2.  Tlaving 
crossed  the  bridjrc,  the  visitor  pr,>coe<ls  aIo!i^  tht;  brow 
of  the  hill  until  lu;  arrives  nearly  in  front  of  the  whole 
cataract;  from  this  swrnmit,  the  view,  with  tht5  concom- 
itant circumstances,  ins[)ire  corumiiitflcd  emotions  of 
awe,  terror  and  astonishment.  From  the  same  spot, 
there  is  a  lucid  and  beauteous  prospect  of  Clucbcc, 
with  its  encircling  scenery  ;  and  with  an  ordinary  mag- 
nifying glass,  tho  observer  can  discern  all  the  promi- 
nent objects — tho  steeples,  towers,  fortifications,  prin- 
cipal edifices,  the  shipping,  tho  course  of  the  St.  Law- 
rence, until  it  is  lost  among  the  hills — Point  Levi  and 
its  vicinity — tho  north  side  of  tin;  island  of  Orleans — 
the  point  of  Ango  Gardien — and  the  shores  of  the  river 
as  far  as  Capo  Tourment.  3.  Hence  the  visitor  de- 
scends the  hill,  and  pursuing  its  course  to  the  right,  he 
may  ordinarily  advance  to  the  rock  which  interrupts 
the  turbulence  of  the  stream  when  discharged  into  the 
chasm.  In  the  view  from  below,  the  most  vivid  im- 
pressions of  this  gorgeous  cascade  are  produced  ;  and 
travellers  who  do  not  thus  survey  the  Falls,  can  form 
only  a  faint  and  incorrect  idea  of  its  apparently  chang- 
ing effect. 

At  a  considerable  distance  above  the  Falls,  the  chan- 
nel of  the  river  is  contracted  between  high  vertic^^l 
rocks,  and  the  water  rushes  witl.  proportionate  velocity. 
In  one  part  at  about  half  a  mile  from  the  bridge,  cas- 
cades of  three  or  four  yards  in  depth  are  adjacent  to 
two  fine  geological  curiosities,  familiarly  denominated 
the  JsTatural  Stepsj  which  appear  to  have  been  formed 
by  the  attrition  of  the  stream,  occasioned  by  the  melt- 
ing of  the  snows  and  the  augmented  rapidity  of  the 


MBMII 


314 


LORETIR. 


flood.  Muny  of  Uichc  stops  are  so  regular,  that  they 
almost  develope  the  process  of  human  art.  The  per- 
pendicular attitude  of  the  rocks  on  the  east  side — the 
tree-crowned  sununit — the  uniformity  of  ajjpearance, 
resembling  an  ancient  castle  wall  in  ruins — the  preci- 
pices on  the  western  bank — and  the  foaming  noisy 
current  pourtray  a  romantic  wild n ess,  which  is  highly 
attractive.  Observers  are  amply  remunerated  for  their 
walk,  as  conjoined  with  this  interesting  object,  they 
witness  the  continuous  descent  and  the  accelerating 
force  and  celerity  with  which  the  river  is  propelled  to 
the  point,  whence  it  is  precipitated  into  the  St.  Law- 
rence. 

LoRETTE,  an  Indian  village,  about  8  miles  from  the 
city,  can  be  taken  in  the  route  to  or  from  the  Falls  of 
Montmorenci.  It  is  built  upon  an  elevated  situation, 
whence  there  is  an  extensively  varied  and  agreeable 
landscape,  in  many  points  similar  to  that  from  Cape 
Diamond,  but  also  including  some  interesting  novelties 
of  outline.  It  exhibits  a  bold  and  beautiful  view  of 
tluebec  and  its  suburbs,  and  in  its  extent,  it  is  bounded 
solely  by  the  distant  southern  mountains.  The  Indian 
inhabitants  of  the  village  retain  many  of  the  prominent 
characteristics  of  the  aboriginal  roamers  of  the  forest, 
combined  with  vicious  habits  contracted  by  their  prox- 
imity to  a  large  sea-port,  and  their  intercourse  with  its 
migratory  population.  At  this  village  is  a  very  charm- 
ing view  of  the  river  St.  Charles  tumbling  and  foaming 
over  the  rocks  and  ledges  to  a  great  depth.  The  rug- 
ged and  pependicularly  elevated  woody  cliffs  in  con- 
nection with  the  impetuous  rush  of  the  waters,  although 
circumscribed  in  extent,  and  therefore  affording  no  ex- 


I 


I'HAUniKRE  FALl.1. 


313 


it  they 
le  per- 
e — tlie 
irancc, 
prcci- 
noisy 
highly 
>r  their 
t,  they 
erating 
5lled  to 
.  Law- 

om  the 
Falls  of 
tuation, 
reeable 
ti  Cape 
ovelties 
view  of 
ounded 
Indian 
jminent 
forest, 
ir  prox- 
with  its 
charm- 
oaming 
le  rug- 
in  con- 
though 
r  no  ex- 


panded prospect  ill  innnc'diutc  front,  ytt  as)  seen  from 
the  Saw-Mill,  and  from  the  bunk  antl  tlie  l>ri(lp?  at  the 
head  of  the  dtJii,  in  its  ditlhrent  ponitioiis  and  aspects, 
constitute  an  objui  t,  wiiich,  wlien  contiiistcd  with  the 
more  majestic  cataracts  of  Moutmorcnci  and  theChau- 
dierc,  or  recollected  in  coinhination  with  them,  furnishes 
in  memorial  an  addition  to  the  varieti(^s  which  those 
stupendous  natural  curiosities  embody. 

The  CiiAUDiERK  Palls  can  be  approached  by  land 
or  water.  The  former  is  generally  prefurred,  the  dis- 
tance to  the  mouth  of  the  Chauclierc  bcinir  nine  miles 
from  duebec.  From  thence  visitors  can  cross  at  the 
ferry  and  take  an  indirect  path  to  the  west  ba*ik  of  the 
river,  or  diverge  from  thi  St.  Lawrence  some  diytance 
north  of  the  Chaudiere,  and  arrive  within  a  short  walk 
of  the  falls  on  the  eastern  bank.  The  river  at  the  cas- 
cade is  much  compressed,  being  only  about  400  feet 
across  ;  and  the  depth  into  the  Poty  ss  it  is  usually 
termed,  is  about  135  feet.  Many  rocks  divide  the 
stream,  precisely  at  the  fall,  into  three  chief  currents,  of 
which  the  westerly  is  the  largest — these  partially  re- 
unite before  their  broken  and  agitated  waves  are  re- 
ceived into  the  basin  ;  where  each  dashing  against  the 
other  maintains  a  turbulent  whirlpool.  The  form  of 
the  rock  forces  a  part  of  the  waters  into  an  oblique  di- 
rection, advancing  tlioni  beyond  the  line  of  the  preci- 
pice, while  the  cavities  in  the  rock?  increase  tlic  foaming 
fury  of  the  revolving  waters  in  their  descent,  displaying 
globular  figures  of  brilliant  whiteness,  which  are  richly 
contrasted  with  the  encirling  dark  and  gloomy  cliffs, 
while  the  ascending  spray  developcs  all  the  variety  of 
the  coloured  cloudy  arch,  and  enlivens  the   Ik  antv  of 


Sl(i 


ST.  LAWRENCE  RIVER. 


I!  I 


•r.; 


m  f 


the  landscape  ;  the  wild  diversity  of  rocks,  the  foHage 
of  the  overhanging  woods,  the  rapid  motion,  the  efful- 
gent brightness  md  the  deeply  solemn  sound  of  the 
cataracts,  all  combining  to  present  a  rich  assemblage  of 
objects  highly  attractive,  especially  when  the  visitor, 
emerging  from  the  wood,  is  instantaneously  surprised 
by  the  delightful  scene.  Below,  the  view  is  greatly 
changed,  and  the  falls  produce  an  additional  strong  and 
vivid  impressic  X.  If  strangers  only  view  the  falls  from 
one  side  of  the  river,  the  prospect  from  the  eastern 
shore  is  recommended  as  preferable. 

The  Montmorenci  and  Chaudiere  Falls,  the  village 
of  Loretto  and  Lake  St.  Charles,  together  with  the 
scenery  of  Orleans,  a  beautiful  island  six  miles  down  the 
St.  Lawrence,  Beaufort  and  Point  Levi,  will  always  af- 
ford interesting  excursions  to  the  tourist  at  Gtuebec. 

The  St.  Lawrence  below  CIuebec. — Those  who 
have  not  seen  this  part  of  this  greatest  of  the  navigable 
rivers  in  the  world,  can  form  but  a  very  imperfect  idea 
of  its  grandeur,  and  the  magnificence  of  its  scenery. 
Above  the  island  of  Orleans,  the  St.  Lawrence  is  com- 
paratively confined  to  a  narrow^  channel  passing  tlirough 
a  level  country,  offering  much  sameness  on  the  south 
shore,  with  the  mountains  on  the  north,  too  distant  to 
produce  much  effect.  The  views  on  the  great  Lakes 
of  the  St.  Lawrence  in  the  Upper  Province,  stretching 
out  of  sight  of  land,  differ  little  from  those  on  any  ex- 
tended sea  coast  studded  with  islands,  and  bordered 
with  towns  and  habitations. 

The  St.  Lawrence  below  the  Island  of  Orleans,  from 
many  points  on  its  northern  banks,  lays  open  to  the 
view  a  hundred  miles  of  a  river  varying  from  twenty  to 


SAGUENAY    RIVER. 


317 


I  foliage 
he  efful- 
id  of  the 
iblage  of 
I  visitor, 
mrprised 
;  greatly 
rong  and 
falls  from 
J  eastern 

le  village 
with  the 
down  the 
ilways  af- 
uebec. 
hose  who 
navigable 
jrfect  idea 
scenery. 
:e  is  com- 
ig  tlirough 
the  south 
distant  to 
at  Lakes 
tretching 
n  any  ex- 
bordered 

lans,  from 
len  to  the 
Itwenty  to 


twenty-five  iiiilos  in  width,  tiie  whole  coim\'<p  and  coast 
of  which,  in  this  clear  atmosphere,  can  be  distinctly 
discerned.  Beautiful  islands  covered  with  neat  dwel- 
lings and  cultivated  fields,  contrast  with  those  that  are 
of  bare  rock,  or  covered  v/ith  wood;  the  crowded  set- 
tlements, the  villages  and  distant  highlands  on  the 
south  shore,  are  opposed  to  the  bold  and  lofty  moun- 
tains of  the  north,  crowned  with  the  native  forests,  and 
impending  over  the  margin  of  the  river,  while  the  val- 
leys formed  by  the  streams  and  torrents  of  these  moun- 
tain regions,  leave  openings  in  which  the  village  spires 
are  discernible  in  front  of  the  bare,  rugged,  and  stupen- 
dous ranges  in  the  interior.  In  other  places  the  set- 
tlements extend  nearly  to  the  tops  of  the  mountains, 
presenting  to  the  view  neat  dwellings,  luxuriant  har- 
vests, and  green  fields,  etched  out  on  the  face  of  the 
wildest  of  nature's  domains.  Along  the  main  channel 
of  the  river,  numbers  of  the  thousands  of  vessels  which 
frequent  Gtuebec  during  the  season  of  navigation,  are 
continually  passing  up  or  down  under  crowded  sails, 
or  quietly  anchored,  waiting  the  tides  or  winds,  and 
from  behind  every  cape  and  promontory,  among  the  isl- 
ands, and  in  every  bay  and  creek,  the  smaller  vessels 
and  boats  are  constantly  plying  in  the  industrious  pur- 
suits of  the  inhabitants,  or  on  excursions  of  social  in- 
tercourse, it  is  a  scene  which  elevates  the  mind  to  de- 
vout contemplation,  and  a  just  appreciation  of  the  benfits 
of  peaceful  industry. 

The  inhabitants  of  this  part  of  the  St.  Lawrence  are 
estimated  at  about  100,000. 

The  Saguenay,  which  enters  the  St.  J^awrence  on 
its  northern  shor*^,  about  100  miles  below  Quebec,  is 


■\ 

'I 

t 


\il-! 


ii'iii; 


318 


SAGUENAV  RIVEK. 


one  of  the  most  extraordinary  rivers  in  the  World.  It 
is  the  grand  outlet  of  the  waters  from  the  Saguenay 
country  into  the  St.  Lawrence,  and  although  only  a 
tributary  stream,  has  the  appearance  of  a  long  mountain 
lake,  in  an  extent  of  fifty  miles,  rather  than  that  of  a 
river.  The  scenery  is  of  the  most  wild  and  magnificent 
description.  The  river  varies  from  about  a  mile  to  two 
miles  in  breadth,  and  follows  its  impetuous  course  in  a 
south-east  direction,  through  a  deep  valley  formed  by 
mountains  of  gneiss  and  sienitic  granite,  which  in  some 
places  rise  vertically  from  the  water- side  to  an  elevation 
of  two  thousand  feet.* 

There  is  a  feature  attending  this  river,  which  render? 
it  a  natural  curiosity,  and  is  probably  the  only  instance 
of  the  kind.  The  St.  Lawrence  is  about  eisrhteen  miles 
wide  at  their  confluence,  and  has  a  depth  of  about  two 
hundred  and  forty  feet.  A  ridge  of  rocks  below  the 
surface  of  the  water,  through  which  there  is  a  channel 
about  one  hundred  and  twenty  feet  deep,  lies  across  the 
mouth  of  the  Saguenay,  within  which  the  depth  in- 
creases to  eight  hundred  and  forty  feet,  so  that  the  bed 
of  the  Saguenay  is  absolutely  six  hundred  feet  below 
that  of  the  St.  Lawrence  into  which  it  falls,  a  depth 
which  is  preserved  many  miles  up  the  river.  So  extra- 
ordinary a  feature  could  only  occur  in  a  rocky  country, 
such  as  is  found  in  some  parts  of  Canada,  where  the 
beauties  of  nature  are  displayed  in  their  wildest  form. 
The  course  of  the  tide,  meeting  with  resistance  from 
the  rocks  at  the  mouth  of  the  Saguenay,  occasions  a 
violent  ripling,  or  surf,  which  is  much  increased  and  ex- 
ceedingly dangerous  to  boats  during  the  ebb  tide.  The 
extraordinary  depth  of  the  river,  and  the  total  want  of 


SAGUEiNAY  RIV£R. 


319 


orld.  It 
iaguenay 
h  only  a 
nountain 
that  of  a 
Lgnificent 
lie  to  two 
)urse  in  a 
Drmed  by 
h  in  some 
elevation 

h  renders 
r  instance 
een  miles 
ibout  two 
»elow  the 
1  channel 
icross  the 
depth  in- 
it  the  bed 
et  below 
a  depth 
3o  extra- 
country, 
here  the 
3st  form. 
ICC  from 
asions  a 
and  ex- 
ie.    The 
want  of 


information  concerning  it,  has  given  rise  to  an  idea 
among  the  credulous  fishermen,  of  its  being  in  many 
parts  unfathomable.  This  effect  is  admissible  on  unin- 
formed minds,  for  there  is  always  an  appearance  of 
mystery  about  a  river  when  its  water  is  even  discol- 
oured so  as  to  prevent  the  bed  from  being  seen,  and  the 
delusion  is  here  powerfully  assisted  by  the  lofty  over- 
shadowing precipices  of  cither  shore. 

Following  the  course  of  the  river  upwards,  it  pre- 
serves a  westerly  direction  to  the  distance  of  about  sixty 
miles,  in  some  parts  about  half  a  mile  broad,  in  others 
expanding  into  small  lakes,  about  two  miles  across  to 
their  borders,  being  interspersed  with  a  few  low  islands. 
In  the  narrow  parts  of  the  river,  the  depth  at  the  dis- 
tance of  a  few  yards  from  the  precipice  forming  the 
bank,  is  six  hundred  feet,  and  in  the  middle  of  the  river 
it  increases  to  nearly  nine  hundred.    Here  the  navigation 
is  suddenly  terminated  by  a  succession  of  falls  and 
rapids,  near  which  is  situated  the  trading  post  of  Chi- 
cotimy.      At  this  place  there  is  an  old  church,  built 
about  two  centuries  ago  by  the  Jesuits,  who  were  ac- 
tive in  civilizing  the  native  Indians.     The  church  is  still 
kept  in  decent  repair  by  the  Indians,  and  is  annually 
visited  by  a  missionary  priest.     These  people  are  few 
in  number  and  are  not  to  be  met  with  between  this  tra- 
ding post  and  the  mouth  of  the  river.     A  fine  tract  of 
country  commences  here,  intersected  by  several  rivers 
issuing  from  lake  St.  John,  distant  about  p'xty-seven 
miles  farther  to  the  westward.     The  little  v^ommunica- 
tion  which  is  carried  on  with  this  lake  is,  by  means  of 
these  rivers,  in  bark  canoes,  and  batteaux,  and  flat- 
bottomed  boats  of  the  country;   but  it  is  subject  to 

cc 


_mmtimm{mi..A 


i    1 


m 


I  lii 


m 


!i  a ' 


320 


FROM  MONTREAL  TO  WHITEHALL. 


much  interruption  from  the  portages,  or  carrying  places, 
necessary  to  avoid  the  numerous  falls  in  them.  The 
tif'o  of  emigration  is  directed  in  this  quarter. 

It  was  in  this  river,  that  the  ships  of  the  French 
squadron  found  a  secure  retreat,  at  the  memorable  siege 
of  duebec  under  Gen.  Wolfe. 

At  the  mouth  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  360  miles  below 
Ctuebec,  the  river  is  100  miles  wide.  It  here  connects 
with  the  Gulpli  of  St.  Lawrence,  350  miles  long  and 
150  wide,  which  communicates  with  the  Atlantic  by 
three  different  passages. 

FROM  aUEBEC  TO  MONTREAL. 

In  returning  to  Montreal,  the  traveller  (as  before  re- 
marked) should,  if  practicable,  take  a  boat  at  such  an 
hour  as  to  give  him  a  chance  of  viewing  by  '^«3'-Hght 
on  the  river  the  scenery  which,  in  descending,  was 
passed  in  the  night. 

The  approach  to  Montreal  in  ascending  the  river  is 
extrenicly  beautiful.  The  mount  behind  the  city  cloth- 
ed in  a  rich  and  unbroken  foliage,  the  numerous  adja- 
cent country  seats,  the  spires  and  edifices  of  the  city, 
and  the  beautiful  woody  island  in  front,  all  conspire  in 
presenting  a  rich  and  truly  diversified  landscape,  and 
one  that  will  not  be  easily  effaced  from  the  memory. 
[For  a  descHption  of  Montrealy  see  p,  286.] 

FROM  MONTREAL*  TO  WHITEHALL, 

Is  181  miles,  and  the  intervening  distances  are  as  fol« 
lows: 

*  At  Montreal  a  stage  can  be  taken  twice  a  week  for 
Danville,  Vt.  distant  100  miles;   from  thence  to  the 


N 


I 


CHAMBLT — ST.  JOHNS. 


321 


place*, 
.    The 

French 
le  siege 

•■>  below 
onnects 
ing  and 
intic  by 


efore  re- 
such  an 
lov-Ught 
ng,  was 


river  is 
y  cloth - 
us  adja- 

lie  city, 
ispire  in 

pe,  and 
nemory. 

as  fol' 


,veek  for 
I  to  the 


Miles. 

Burlington, 11 

Split  Rock, 12 

Essex, 2 

Basin  Harbor, 12 

Crown  Point, 12 

Ticonderoga, 15 

Whitehall, 24 


Miles. 

Longueii, 2 

Chambly, 13 

St.  Johns, 12 

Isle  Aux  Noix, 14 

Rouse's  Point, 10 

Chazy, 12 

Plattsburgh,  ........   15 

Port  Kent, 15 

From  Montreal  the  St.  Lawrence  is  crossed  in  a 

horseboat  to  Longueii,*  a  distance  of  two  miles.     After 

leaving  Longueii,  the  country   becomes    remarkably 

level,  until  you  reach 

Chambly,  IS  miles  distant.  This  is  a  considerable 
town,  on  the  river  Sorel,  containing  extensive  barracks 
and  some  troops.  In  the  vicinity  is  High  Mountain, 
which  confines  between  its  conical  summits  a  lake  of 
pure  water.  The  fort  is  built  of  stone,  in  a  quadran- 
gular form,  and  resembles  in  its  appearance  an  ancient 
castle.  From  this  place  the  road  follows  the  river,  until 
you  arrive  at 

St.  Johns,  a  distance  of  12  miles.     This  place  was 
an  important  post  during  the  French  and  Revolutionary 


Notch  in  the  White  Mountains,  28  miles  ;  from  thence 
to  Concord,  N.  H.,  75  miles  ;  and  from  thence  to  Bos- 
ton, 68  miles.  The  whole  route  is  performed  in  four 
days,  [bm'  a  descrijilion  of  the  While  Mountains^  see 
^'-  Route  from  Burlington  to  Boston.^''] 

+  The  route  may  be  varied  so  as  to  pass  through  La 
Prairie,  a  village  of  about  200  houses,  and  the  grand 
thoroughfare  for  trade  between  Alontreal  and  St.  Johns, 
though  the  route  through  Longueii  is  considered  pre- 
ferable, 


Iff 


■Mil 


''!!■, 


m^^ 


ifiiif 


I.AKF.  CHAMIM.AIN ISI.E   \V\  NOIX. 


wars.  In  the  latter  it  was  taken,  after  a  gallant  do- 
fcnco,  by  General  Montgomery,  as  way  also  Chambly. 
It  eontaiiis,  at  present,  about  100  bouses  and  800  in- 
babitauts.  Tbougb  a  place  of  cousidcMable  business, 
it  possesses  nolbing  in  its  appearance  or  accommoda- 
tions inviting  to  a  straiiger.  Steam  boats  leave  St. 
.Tobns  daily  for  Wbitvball,  and  toucb  at  at  all  tbe  inter- 
mediate places  on  tbe  Lake.     Fare  tluou^b,  $5. 

LAKE  CIIAMPLAIN, 

Forms  part  of  tlio  ])oundary  line  between  tbe  states 
of  New-York  and  Vermont.     Its  Icngtii  is  140  miles, 
and  tbe  g'reatcst  breadtb  14.     A  great  proportion  of  tho 
lands  on  tbe  margin  of  tho  lake  arc  still  unredeemed 
from  a  state  of  nature,  and  in  some  places,  particularly 
at  tbe  north  end,  arc  low  and  marshy.     After  entering 
the  territories  of  the  United  States,  the  country  is  more 
populous,  and  under  a  better  state  of  improvement. 
Tbe  villages  seen  from  the  lake  all  exhibit  a  cheerful 
and  thriving  appearance.    The  lake  properly  terminates 
at  jNIount  Independence  ;  from  whence  to  Whitehall,  a 
distance  of  23  miles,  it  assumes  the  appearance  of  a 
river,  in  which  little  more  than  room  is  left,  at  any  point, 
to  turn  the  boat.     The  history  of  Chauiplain  involves 
many  interesting  events  associated  with  the  French  and 
Revolutionary  wars.     During  those  periods  several  for- 
tifications were  constructed,  which  have  since  under- 
gone some  repairs,  but  are  now  in  a  state  of  decay. 
The  ruins  of  the  ancient  fortresses  at  Ticonderoga  and 
Crown  Point  are  still  visible. 

Isle  aux  Noix,  14  miles  from  St.  Johns.     This  is  a 
strong  military  and  naval  post  possessed  by  the  Eng- 


IM-ATT-^IUIIUai. 


323 


liah.  Tlie  vvorkn  arc  •generally  in  goml  preservation; 
:iii(l  arc  orcnpicd  by  a  small  military  corps,  Tn  tlio  ex- 
p'Mlition  af^^ain^^t  Canada  in  177r),  tlio  troops  imdor  Gen- 
erals Schuyler  and  Montgomery  went  down  tlu3  lake 
in  rafts  and  landed  at  this  island,  from  wluiiire  they 
proceeded  to  St.  Johns.  The  other  detaehm(!nt,  under 
G(Mi.  Arnold,  marched  hy  land  Ihrourrh  the  presfint  state 
of  Maine,  (then  a  wilderness)  to  Cluehec. 

Rouse's  Point,  at  the  outlet  of  Lake  Cham|)lain, 
and  JO  miles  from  the  Isle  aux  Noix,  contains  stronpf 
stone  fortifications,  erected  hy  the  United  States,  hut 
which  uv  the  decision  of  the  commissioners  appointed 
to  S(^ttle  he  boundary  line  between  the  American  and 
British  governments,  fell  within  the  territories  of  thf 
latter. 

The  ViLLAfJE  ov  PLATTsnuRGH,  27  mih^s  farther,  is 
handsomely  located  at  the  mouth  of  the  Saranac  river, 
on  the  west  side  of  Lake  Champlain.  It  contains  about 
350  dwellings,  besides  the  court  house  and  prison  for 
the  county.  The  number  of  inhabitants  is  about  2500. 
This  place  is  rendered  cclebratrd  by  the  brilliant  victory 
of  M'Donough  and  INTacomb,  over  the  British  land  and 
naval  forces  under  Sir  George  Provost  and  Commo- 
dore Dovvnic.  The  naval  engagement  took  place  in 
front  of  the  village,  winch  overlooks  the  extensive  Bay 
of  Plattsburgh  for  several  miles.  Here  the  American 
rjommodore  waited  at  anchor  the  arrival  of  the  British 
fleet,  which  appcan^d  passing  Cumberland  ITejul,  about 
8  in  the  morning  of  tlie  11th  September,  1814.  The 
first  gun  from  the  fleet  was  the  signal  for  commencing 
the  attack  on  land.  Sir  George  Prevost,  with  about 
cc2 


my 


'rii''' 


■!'!  : '  i 


'1,111 


U!il  i 


I 


324 


PLATTSBURGH. 


14,000  men,  furiously  assaulted  the  defences  of  the 
town,  whilst  the  Imttle  racred  with  increasing  ardor  be- 
tween the  fleets,  then  con:i.nding  in  full  view  of  the  re- 
spective armies.  General  Macomb,  with  his  gallant 
little  army,  consisting  of  about  3,000  men,  mostly  un- 
disciplined, foiled  the  repeated  assaults  of  the  enemy, 
until  the  capture  of  the  British  fleet,  after  an  action  of 
two  hours,  obliged  him  to  retire,  with  the  loss  of  2,500 
men,  together  with  consiuerable  baggage  and  ammuni- 
tion. The  American  force  on  the  lake  consisted  of  83 
guns,  and  820  men  ;  and  was  opposed  to  a  force  of  95 
guns,  and  1,050  men.  Thus  ended  the  affair  at  Platts- 
burgh,  no  less  honorable  to  American  valor  than  dero- 
gatory to  the  British  arms.  Commodore  Downie  was 
killed  in  the  engagement.  He  was  represented  as  a 
brave  and  skilful  officer  ;  but  was  opposed  to  the  meth- 
od of  attack  on  the  American  flotilla.  Both  fleets  are 
now  dismantled,  and  moored  at  Whitehall. 

A  monument  erected  to  the  memory  of  Commodore 
Downie,  in  the  church-yard  at  Plattsburgh,  contains 
the  following  inscription  : 

"  Sacred  to  the  memory  of  George  Downie,  Esq. 
a  Post-Captain  in  the  Royal  British  Navy,  who  glori- 
ously fell  on  board  his  B.  M.  S.  the  Confiance,  while 
leading  the  vessels  under  his  command  to  the  attack  of 
the  American  flotilla  at  anchor  in  Cumberland  Bay,  off* 
Plattsburgh,  on  the  11th  September,  1814.  To  mark 
the  spot  where  the  remains  of  a  gallant  oflficer  and  sin- 
cere friend  were  honorably  interred,  this  stone  has  been 
erected  by  his  affectionate  sister-in-law  Mary  Downie." 

The  remains  of  a  number  of  officers  of  both  armies, 
who  fell  in  the  engagement,  repose  near  the  Commo- 


PLATTSBURGH. 


325 


f  the 

or  bC' 

he  re- 

aliant 

y  un- 

piemy, 

ion  of 

2,500 

muni" 

of  83 

J  of  95 

Platts- 

1  dero- 

ic  was 

d  as  a 

1  meth- 

;ets  are 

modore 
lontains 

IE,  Esq. 
10  glori- 
e,  while 
ittack  of 
Bay,  off 
?o  mark 
and  sin- 
las  been 
)ownie." 
I  armies, 
Commo- 


<iore,  with  no  monument  to  inform  tlie  stranger,  and 
with  no  record  but  tradition  to  denote  the  spot  of  tlieir 
interment.  East  of  Downie  are  Hve  graves,  occurring 
in  the  following  order;  Commencing  south — Captain 
Copeland,  an  American  officer — Lieut.  Stansbury,  of 
the  American  navy — Lieut.  Runk,  of  the  American  ar- 
my— Lieut.  Gamble,  of  the  American  navy — and  a 
British  Sergeant.  On  the  north  side  of  Downie  are  the 
remains  of  the  British  Lt.  Col.  Wolliuiiton — on  the 
south,  two  British  Lieutenants — on  the  west  Captain 
Purchase  and  four  other  officers,  three  of  whom  were 
Britisii. 

The  traveller  will  find  many  objects  of  interest  at 
Plattsburgli,  which  will  warrant  his  continuance  there 
for  one  or  two  days.  A  short  distance  from  the  village 
are  the  cantoncment  and  breast  works  occupied  by 
Gen.  Macomb  and  his  troops  during  the  last  war.  A 
mile  north  is  shown  the  house  possessed  by  Gen.  Pre- 
vost  as  his  head-quarters  during  the  siege  in  1814 ;  be- 
tween which  and  the  village,  the  marks  of  cannon-shot 
on  trees  and  other  objects,  are  still  visible.  Farther 
onward,  about  5  miles,  on  a  hill  overlooking  the  village 
of  Beekmantown,  is  shown  the  spot  where  a  sanguina- 
ry engagement  took  place  between  the  American  and 
British  troops,  which  resulted  in  the  death  of  the  British 
Col.  Wellington,  and  several  men  of  both  armies.  Col. 
W.  was  killed  in  the  centre  of  the  road,  about  equi- 
distant from  the  summit  and  foot  of  the  hill. 

MWonough's  Fanrij  granted  by  the  legislature  of 
Vermont,  lies  on  Cumberland  Head,  nearly  east  of 
Plattsburgh ;  a  ride  to  which,  around  the  bay,  in  the 
warm  season,  is  refreshing  and  delightful. 


:V2(; 


ADGAIF.'S    KAI.I.S HIGH   DUIUGE. 


'    ifl 


Port  Kent,   1")   inihs  fnun  Plattslmrgfi,  ia  a  t^pof 
solocted  on  tho  lake  shore  for  a  new  town  or  village, 
17  miles  sontliorly  orPlatts]>nr"h  by  i.'ind,  and  15  miles 
by  water.      There  are  a  few  bnildinfrp,  and  a  wharf 
erected,  at  which  passen<rers  are  landed  from  the  steam 
boat.     From  this  plnce  lufiy  be  seen,  on  the  north,  the 
Isle  La  Mott,  2G  miles  distant.  Grand  Island,  the  Two 
Sisters,  Point  La  Roche,  Cumberland  Head,  and  Bel- 
core  and  Macomb's  Islands  ;  on  the  east,  Stave,  Pro- 
vidence and  Hog  Islands,  Colchester  Point,  and   the 
Green  Mountains  of  Vermont ;  on  the  south,  the  vil- 
lage of  Burlington,  about   11   miles  distant,  with  the 
high  peak  called  the  Camel's  Rump ;  the  whole  forming 
a  most  dehglitful  and  pleasant  landscape  not  excelled 
at  any  other  point  of  the  lake  passage.     Three  miles 
west  fro  11  Port  Kent,  are  the  celebrated 

Adgate's  Falls.  They  are  situated  on  the  river 
A'Sable,  and  take  their  name  from  a  person  residing 
there,  who  is  the  proprietor  of  some  valuable  mils  in 
the  vicinity.  The  water  pours  over  a  precipice  about 
80  feet  in  height,  into  a  narrow  channel  of  the  river, 
the  banks  of  which  consist  of  rock,  rising  perpendicu- 
larly to  the  height  of  from  60  to  100  feet.  At  what  is 
called  the 

High  Bridge,  about  half  a  mile  below  the  falls,  the 
channel  is  narrowed  to  27  feet.  The  height  of  the  rocks 
here,  which  are  perpendicular,  is  93  feet,  and  the  water 
35  feet  deep.  Over  this  chasm  a  bridge  was  once  erect- 
ed, by  throwing  timbers  across  ;  but  it  is  now  princi- 
pally in  decay.  The  sensations  produced  on  looking 
into  this  gulf  are  terrific,  and  the  stoutest  heart  invol- 


BURLINOTON — SPLIT  ROCK. 


m 


uritarily  shrinks  from  the  contemplation.  Tliere  is  an 
indiflferent  road  frotn  the  falls  to  the  llif{h  Bridixe,  but 
with  this  exception  the  spot  is  yet  a  wilderness. 

About  4  miles  in  a  westerly  direction  from  this,  is 
the  thriving  village  of  Keesevii.m:,  which  contains 
several  manufactories,  a  bank,  two  newspaper  estab- 
lishments, and  several  handsome  residcnices.  It  is  a 
place  of  much  entcrprize,  and  will  soon  become  a  large 
town. 

Burlington,  is  situated  on  the  east  side  of  Lake 
Champlain,  about  24  miles  south-east  of  Plattsburgh. 
This  is  one  of  those  beautiful  villages  which  so  often 
attract  the  notice  of  a  stranger  in  the  New-Enorland 
states.  The  ground  rises  with  a  moderate  ascent  from 
the  lake  and  presents  a  slope  covered  with  handsome 
houses  and  trees.  On  the  highest  part  of  the  eminence, 
which  is  330  feet  above  the  level  of  the  lake,  stands  the 
University  of  Vermont.  This  summit  commands  a 
noble  viev/  of  the  lake,  and  the  adjacent  country,  for 
many  miles.  There  are  here  about  300  houses  and 
stores,  two  banks,  a  court-house,  jail,  and  3  churches.* 
About  12  miles  from  Burlington,  in  the  town  of  Wills- 
borough,  (N.  Y.)  is  what  is  called  the 

Split  Rock.  This  curiosity  is  a  part  of  a  rocky 
promontory  projecting  into  the  lake,  on  the  west  side, 
about  150  feet,  and  elevated  above  tlie  level  of  the  wa- 
ter about  1 2  feet.     The  part  broken  off  contains  about 


*  Travellers  designing  to  visit  Boston,  frequently 
take  a  stage  at  this  place,  on  a  route  which  is  noticed  in 
a  subsequent  part  of  this  work. 


238 


t;UUWN   POINT — TItONDRHOOA. 


»•• 


r;si 


half  an  acre,  covered  with  trees,  and  is  separated  from 
the  inaiii  rock  about  20  feet.  The  opposite  sides  ex- 
actly fit  each  other — the  prominences  in  the  one  corres- 
pondinij^  with  the  cavities  in  the  other.  Tliron«j[h  this 
lissure  a  line  has  been  let  down  to  the  depth  of  500  feet, 
without  finding  bottom. 

Crown  Point,  is  situated  30  miles  from  Burlington, 
on  the  west  side  of  Lake  Champhiin.  It  is  formed  by 
an  extensive  deep  bay  on  the  west,  skirted  by  a  steep 
mountain,  and  on  the  north  and  east  by  the  body  of 
the  lake.  The  elevated  plain  was  first  occupied  by  the 
French,  in  1731,  as  a  military  position,  and  abandoned 
by  them  in  1759,  when  General  Amherst  took  posses- 
sion of  it,  and  built  Fort  Frederick.  The  ruins  of  this 
fort  may  still  be  traced,  being  situated  directly  opposite 
to  Chimney  Point  on  the  south  side  of  the  bay.  After 
the  peace  of  1763,  it  was  occupied  by  a  subaltern  and  a 
mere  safe-guard,  until  it  was  burnt  by  accident  some- 
time previous  to  the  American  Revolution.  In  1775  it 
fell  into  the  hands  of  the  Americans,  and  was  after- 
wards evacuated  by  them,  on  the  advance  of  Burgoyne, 
in  1776.  A  few  years  since  a  number  of  British  guineas 
were  found  hero,  from  the  accidental  crumbling  of  the 
earth  from  tlie  banks,  w'here  they  had  been  deppsited. 

TicoNDEHOGA,  which  has  already  been  noticed,  {see 
p.  190,)  is  situated  15  miles  south  of  Crown  Point,  and 
24  miles  north  of  Whitehall. 


One  mile  from  Ticonderoga,  is  IVIount  Indepen- 
dence, on  the  cast  side  of  the  lake;  near  the  foot  ol 
which,  the  remains  of  a  small  battery  are  still  to  be 


WHITEHALL — (HAMl'LAIN  CANAL. 


231) 


«cen.     What  was  c  Mod  thn  Horsc-Slioo  battery  was 
on  an  riovation  ahoi.    a  <iuart<'r  of  u  milo  in  the  rear. 

Nino  miles  lartlicr,  the  lake  is  contracted  into  fonr 
narrow  chamiclH,  bounded  on  llie  west  and  east  by  h)fly 
mountains. 

South  and  East  Rays  arc  soon  reached,  cadi  of 
about  five  miles  in  extent.  The  former  was  taken  by 
Gen.  Dieskau  and  his  army,  in  their  route  towards 
Fort  Edward  in  IT-IS.  From  the  litter  bay  to  White- 
hall, the  passage  is  extremely  narrow  and  of  a  serpen- 
tine course,  and  cannot  be  pursued  in  safety  during  a 
dark  night. 

Whitehall,  terminates  the  steam-boat  navigation 
of  Lake  Champlain.  It  is  an  incorporated  village  sit- 
uated on  the  west  bank  of  Wood  Creek  at  its  entrance 
into  the  lake,  73  miles  north  of  Albany,  and  contains 
about  200  dwellings  and  stores  and  1,500  inhabitants. 
The  situation  of  this  place  is  low  and  unpleasant ;  and 
it  derives  its  principal  consequence  from  the  naviga- 
tion of  the  lake,  which  is  passable  for  sloops  of  80  tons 
burthen,  and  Jrom  the  northern  canal,  which  here  enters 
the  lake.  Burgoyne  occupied  this  place  for  a  short 
time,  preparatory  to  his  march  to  oaratoga ;  and  on  the 
heights,  over  the  harbor,  arc  the  remains  of  a  battery 
and  block  house.* 


THE  CHAMPLAIN  CANAL, 

Commencing  at  Whitehall,  proceeds  south  five  and  a 
half  miles,  when  it  enters  Wood  Creek,  a  narrow  sluggish 


*  A  route  from  this  plare  to  Bocton  i^^  noticed  in  a 
subsequent  part  of  this  work. 


'■i' 


330 


FROM  WHITEHALL  TO  ALBANY. 


I 


%» 


[t 


stream,  averaging  15  feet  in  depth.  This  creek  is  con- 
nected with  the  canal,  and  is  rendered  navigable  for 
boats,  for  about  6^  miles,  to  Fort  Ann  village.  From 
thence  the  canal  proceeds  through  Fort  Ann,  Kings- 
bury, and  Fort  Edward,  to  Fort  Miller  Falls,  below 
which  the  canal  enters  the  river,  which  is  made  naviga- 
ble 3  miles  to  Saratoga  Falls,  where  the  canal  is  taken 
out  of  the  river  on  the  west  side,  and  proceeds  through 
Saratoga,  Stillwater  and  Ilalfmoon,  to  Waterford,  where 
it  enters  the  Hudson,  and  by  a  branch  canal  enters  the 
Mohawk,  which  it  crosses  by  a  dam,  and  after  passing 
I  of  a  mile  joins  the  Erie  canal  in  the  town  of  Water- 
vleit.  The  whole  length  of  the  Champlain  canal  is  63 
miles.  The  cost  to  the  state,  exclusive  of  the  feeder 
from  Glen's  Falls,  was  $875,000. 

The  intervening  distances  on  the  canal  between 
Whitehall  and  Albany  are  as  follows  : 

Miles. 
Fort  Ann, 12 


Sandy  Hill, 8 

Fort  Edward, 2 

Fort  Miller  Falls,....  8 

Saratoga  Falls, 3 

Schuylerville, 2 

Bemus'  Heights, 12 


Miles. 

Stillwater  V 3 

Mechanics  Ville, 3 

Waterford, 8 

Watcrvleit, 2 

Gibbon's  Ville,,.,,....  2 

Albany, 6 


FROM  WHITEHALL  TO  ALBANY, 

BY  STAGE  AND  RAIL  ROAD. 

Stages  leave  Whitehall  every  morning  on  the  arrival 
of  the  Champlain  steam-boats,  and  reach  Saratoga 
Springs  in  time  to  dine  ;  from  whence  the  rail  road  is 
taken  for  Albany,  immediately  after  dinner.   The  whole 


SANDY  HILL. 


331 


IS  con- 
ible  for 

From 
Kings- 

below 
naviga- 
is  taken 
through 
1,  where 
iters  the 
passing 
Water- 
lal  is  63 
e  feeder 

between 

Miles. 

....  3 

....  ^ 

8 

....  2 

I ...  *  ^ 

....  6 


3  arrival 
aratoga 
road  is 
e  whole 


distance  is  75^  miles — fare  $3,50 — and  the  intermedi- 
ate distances  as  follows : 


Miles. 
By  Hail  Road. 

Ballston  Spa, 6^ 

Ballston  Lake, 5 

RchencH'tadv, 10 

Biiel's  Farm, 12 

Albany, 3 


Miles. 
By  Stage. 
From  Whitehall  to 

Fori;  Ann, 11 

Sandy  Hill, 10 

Fort  Ville, 7 

Wilton, 4 

Saratoga  Springs,, .. .  7 

The  route  is  in  a  southern  direction  near  the  line  of 
the  canal,  until  reaching  Fort  Ann ;  half  a  mile  north 
of  which  place,  at  an  elbow  made  by  Wood  Creek, 
leaving  barely  room  between  the  creek  and  a  precipi- 
tous hill  for  the  road,  a  severe  engagement  took  place 
in  1777,  between  a  detachment  of  Burgoync's  troops 
and  a  party  of  Americans,  under  the  command  of  Col. 
Sterry,  who  were  on  their  retreat  from  Ticondcroga. 
The  Americans  were  on  the  plain  south  of  the  hill, 
which  served  as  a  cover  to  the  British.  Their  fire  on 
Sterry's  forces  below  was  destructive,  and  compelled 
him  to  abandon  his  position. 

The  village  of  Fort  Anne,  11  miles  from  Whitehall, 
contains  70  or  80  houses,  and  is  located  on  the  site  of 
the  old  Fort  erected  during  the  French  war.  It  was  at 
the  north  part  of  the  village  on  the  bank  of  the  creek. 

Burgoyne''s  read,  commencing  about  2  miles  south  of 
the  village,  and  pursuing  nearly  the  course  of  the  pres- 
ent  road,  is  s'ill  visible.  It  was  a  causeway,  formed 
by  logs  laid  tri  nsvcrscly,  a  labor  which  became  neces- 
sary in  conveyi  \g  his  cannon  and  baggage  waggons  to 
Saratoga. 

Sandy  Hill,  10  miles  farther.     {Set  p.  181.) 

DP 


332 


UOTJTCS  TO  BOSTON. 


Fort  Ville,  a  small  villa n[o  in  the  town  of  Moreau, 
IS  7  miles  farther.  About  half  n,  inilo  wost  of  the  vil- 
lage, there  is  a  large  Spring,  which  ebbs  and  flows  reg- 
ularly with  the  tide.  It  rises  through  a  body  of  beauti- 
ful fine  sand,  containing  yellow  particles  of  a  mctalic 
substance,  and  has  been  found  to  answer  every  purpose 
of  the  purest  emery.  It  partakes,  also,  so  much  of  the 
character  of  quick  sand,  that  every  weiglity  substance 
placed  in  the  spring,  even  the  longest  sticks  of  timber, 
are  soon  drawn  beneath  the  surface.  Falling,  or  even 
stepping  into  the  fountain,  therefore,  is  considered  ex- 
tremely dangerous.  At  low  water,  the  surface  is  near- 
ly dry  ;  but  at  high  tide,  the  water  is  seen  boiling  up  at 
several  points,  covering  an  area  of  near  a  quarter  of  an 
acre. 

About  a  mile  south  of  Fort  Ville,  the  stage  passes 
over  an  eminence,  which  afflirds  a  beautiful  view  of  the 
Green  Mountains  of  Vermont  at  the  cast  and  the  inter- 
mediate country  ;  three  miles  from  which  is  Wil- 
ton church  ;  from  whence  to  Saratoga  Springs  is 
7  miles.  [For  a  description  of  the  latter  place,  together 
iDith  the  route  hy  rail  road  to  Albany,  see  pages  150  to  175.] 


.i!n:..;:i! 


ROUTES  TO  BOSTON. 

These  are  so  various,  that  the  traveller  may  always 
be  governed  by  his  owm  taste  and  judgment  in  a  selec- 
tion. The  route  from  Albany  has  been  chosen  by  ma- 
ny on  account  of  enjoying  in  the  excursion  a  visit  to  the 
Lebanon  Siprings  ;  while  others  have  preferred  a  course 
which  should  embrace  the  rich  mountain  scenery  of 
Vermont  and  New-IIampshirc  ;  commencing  their  ex- 
cursions oifhiM*  at  Saratoga  Springs,  Whitehall  or  Bur- 


1 1 


NEW-LEBANON. 


333 


lington.     We  thcrefoiv  ^^ubjoin  a  descriiition  of  tho  dif- 
ferent routes. 

FROM  ALBANY  TO  DOST<  »N. 

From  Albany,  stngos  Iravr  daily  for  Hoston,  which 
is  distant  164  miles,  and  tlie  route  is  performed  in  two 
days.  Fare  $8,75.  One  line  passes  through  Benning- 
ton and  Brattleborongh,  Vt.,  hut  the  most  usual  route 
is  through  New-Lebanon,  Pittsfield,  Northampton, 
Brookfield,  Worcester  and  Watertown. 

The  several  stages  and  distances  on  the  last  men- 
tioned route  are  as  follows  : 

Miles. 
Schodack, 5 


Nassau, 12 

New-Lebanon, 8 

Pittsfield, 8 

Dalston, 6 

Peru, 7 

Worthington, 8 

Chesterfield, 9 

Northampton, 13 

Hadley, 2 


Milts, 

Bclchertown, 10 

Ware, 9 

Brookfield, 8 

Spencer, 7 

Leicester, 5 

Worcester, 6 

Framinghani, 20 

Weston,. . « 5 

AVatertown, 5 

Boston, 10 


Albany,  {See  jh  137.) 

New-Lebanon  is  a  pleasant  village  m  the  town  of 
Canaan,  N.  Y.  bordering  on  Pittsfield,  Mass.  and  is  25 
miles  from  Albany.  It  contains  a  mineral  spring  of 
considerable  importance,  which  is  much  frequented  in 
the  summer  monllis  by  invalids.  It  is  principally  used 
for  the  purpose  of  bathing  ;  but  is  much  inferior  to  the 
Saratoga  waters  either  as  a  medicine  or  beverage. 
The  fountain  issues  from  the  side  of  a  jiigh  hill,  in  great 
abundance,  discharixing  at  the  rate  of   18  barrels  per 


334 


PITTSFIELD. 


niinulc ;  and  is  used  as  a  feeder  for  several  mills.  The 
water  is  rcniarlcably  pure  and  soft,  and  is  perfectly 
tasteless  and  inodorous.  Gas,  in  considerable  quanti- 
ties, escapes  from  the  pebbles  and  snnd,  and  keeps  the 
water  in  constant  motion.  It  contains  small  quanti- 
ties of  muriate  of  lime,  muriate  of  soda,  sulphate  of 
lime,  and  carbonate  of  lime  ;  and  its  temperature  is 
73  degrees  of  Farenheit. 

Convenient  bathing  houses  are  kept  in  readiness  at 
all  times,  for  tlic  accommodation  of  strangers  ;  and 
there  arc  a  number  of  boarding  establishments  which, 
at  different  rates,  afford  proportionate  fare.  Among 
these,  the  Navarino  Hotel,  is  a  spacious  and  well  fur- 
nished establishment,  calculated  to  accommodate  from 
100  to  150  guests. 

Near  the  spriiig  is  what  is  called  the  Shakers'  Vil- 
lage, containing  a  number  of  neat  plain  buildings,  gen- 
erally painted  yellow.  The  property  of  this  society  is 
held  in  common  ;  and  they  arc  said  to  possess  nearly 
3000  acres  of  fertile  land.  Besides  agricultural  pur- 
suits, they  carry  on  several  branches  of  manufactures, 
which  are  distingtiished  by  excellence  of  workmanship. 
The  singular  regulations  and  ceremonies  of  these  peo- 
ple, constitute  an  object  of  attention  to  tourists.  Nine 
miles  from  Ncvz-Lobanon  is  the  village  of 

PiTTSFiELD,  rendered  elegant  from  its  local  situation, 
and  from  the  neatness  of  its  buildings.  The  village 
contains  from  150  to  200  houses,  a  bank,  a  medical  col- 
lego  containing  one  of  the  best  anatomical  museums  in 
the  U.  States,  an  aeademy,  2  printing  offices  and  seve- 
ral stoves.  Here  arc  annually  held  the  Cattle  Show  and 
Fair  of  the  celebrated  Berkshire  Agriciiltural  Society, 


PITTSFIEI  I). 


3?r. 


wliidi  lias  hnon  incorporated  by  art  of  Uie  Ippislaturr  ; 
anfl  which  has  rlono  more  towards  impro\'iiiff  the  con- 
dition of  aijricnltnrc  than  any  otlier  institution  of  the 
kind  in  the  Union.  The  show  and  fair,  which  occnpy 
two  days,  never  fail  to  impart  an  nnusual  drpree  of  in- 
terest, and  arc  always  attended  by  immense  crowds  of 
citizens.  =+ 


*  Abont  24  miles  north  of  Pittsfield,  in  the  town  of 
Adams,  there  is  a  JsTaturnl  Bridge,  but  httle  inferior  to 
the  celebrated  natural  bridfre  in  Virofinia.  The  excava- 
tion or  gutter  is  in  solid  lime  rock,  40  rods  in  length, 
varyinjr  from  50  to  fiO  feet  in  beie-lit,  through  which 
runs  Hudson's  Brook  or  the  north  branch  of  the  Hoo- 
sic,  occupyin«f  from  13  to  14  feet,  which  is  the  iniinter- 
rupted  width  of  the  cup.  Over  this  the  bridge  is 
thrown,  being  62  feet  from  the  bed  of  the  brook,  15 
feet  long,  10  wide,  arched  beneath,  and  what  renders  it 
a  matter  of  greater  curiosity,  the  arch  is  perfectly 
smooth,  and  beautifully  white.  On  the  west  side  of 
the  arch  is  a  circular  cut  room,  large  enough  to  contain 
ten  persons.  The  whole  place  bears  the  marks  of  be- 
ing wrought  by  the  irritation  of  the  waters  in  a  most 
workmanlike  manner.  For  ages  this  cause  must  have 
operated  in  producing  the  result.  In  the  neighbor- 
hood of  the  bridge  the  rocks  are  somewhat  open  ;  up- 
on examining  which,  they  are  found  leading  to  large 
caverns,  worked  out  by  the  constant  friction  of  water. 
The  roar  of  water  and  the  sublimity  of  the  scenery, 
produce  an  indescribable  sensation  upon  the  visitor, 
which  induces  him  to  retreat,  being  warned  that  he 
stands  on  slippery  places.  There  are  many  traditions 
respecting  the  precipice — one  is,  that  a  war  party  of 
Indians,  on  an  expedition  to  Brookfield,  in  one  of  the 
early  Indian  wars,  was  dashed  to  pieces  on  the  rocks 
below.  Some  fifteen  or  twenty  years  ago,  a  Mr. 
Briffs,  then  a  student  in  William's  College,  visited  the 

pp2 


r  ■> 


it 


't^i^- 


II 


M' 


I  :3 


336 


NORTHAMPTON. 


Northampton  is  43  miles  from  Pittsfield,  and  is  one 
of  the  finest  towns  in  New-England.  It  is  situated  a 
mile  and  a  half  west  of  Connecticut  river,  and  was  set- 
tled as  early  as  the  year  1654.  It  contains  two  acade- 
mies, several  churches,  a  bank,  2  printing  offices,  a  court 
house,  gaol,  and  350  dwellings,  some  of  which  are  very 
elegant.  The  Congregational  church  is  considered 
one  of  the  most  beautiful  structures  of  the  kind  in  the 
state.  There  are  several  manufactories  here  ;  and  the 
place  exhibits  an  unusual  degree  of  cnterprize  and 
wealth.  The  Farmington  and  Hampshire  canal  com- 
mences at  this  place,  and  extends  to  New-Haven,  Conn. 
87  miles.  Over  the  Connecticut  river,  there  is  a  sub- 
stantial bridge,  1080  feet  long,  resting  on  six  stone  piers. 


place  unaccompanied.  Curiosity  tempted  him  to  ex- 
plore more  fully  the  precipice,  and,  by  the  assistance 
of  poles,  he  descended  to  the  base  of  it.  Here  his  eyes 
feasted  upon  the  wonders  of  nature.  His  curiosity  be- 
ing gratified,  he  began  to  think  of  returning.  After  re- 
peated trials  he  gave  it  up,  and  inscribed  on  the  rock 
his  farewell  to  his  friends  and  the  world.  Plis  voice 
could  not  reach  the  habitation  of  man,  and  the  rocks 
were,  to  all  appearance,  to  be  his  grave.  He,  however, 
began  to  repeat  the  notching  in  the  side,  which  was 
marble,  and  after  a  ])ainful  labor  or  several  hours,  he  ef- 
fected his  escape.  But  the  exertion  proved  too  much  ; 
it  undermined  his  health  and  in  a  few  months  he  was 
conveyed  to  his  grave.  This  place  was  discovered  by 
a  Mr.  Hudson,  while  travelling  the  wilderness,  a  few 
years  before  the  French  war.  He  came  to  it  in  the 
night,  where  he  remained,  and  heard  the  roaring  of  the 
mighty  torrent  beneath  him.  The  next  morning  he 
perceived  that  had  he  advanced  a  few  steps  more  he 
would  have  been  plunged  into  eternity.  From  this 
circumstance,  the  brook  and  the  falls  bear  his  name. 


LEAD  MINE. 


337 


Mount  Holyoke,  in  the  vicinity  of  Northampton,  is 
much  frequented  by  tourists.  It  is  situated  on  the  east 
side  of  the  river  opposite  to  Northampton.  The  height 
of  this  mountain  above  the  level  of  the  river  is  1070 
feet.  In  consequence  of  tlie  resort  to  this  place,  which 
has  been  not  less  than  from  two  to  five  thousand  annu- 
ally, two  buildings  have  been  erected  on  its  summit 
for  the  purpose  of  accommodating  visitors  with  re- 
freshments. The  beautiful  and  extensive  prospect  af- 
forded from  the  top  of  the  mountain,  will  amply  com- 
pensate the  labor  and  diiriculty  of  the  ascent.  The 
view  embraces  eminences  160  miles  apart,  with  sever- 
al beautiful  villages  and  a  rich  and  fertile  country  in- 
tervening, and  is  said  to  be  unrivalled  in  the  eastern 
states. 

Thc  Lead  Mine  at  Southampton,  8  miles  south 
west  of  Northampton,  is  an  object  of  much  interest, 
and  should  be  visited,  if  practicable,  in  an  excursion  to 
the  eastern  states.  The  vein  is  G  or  8  feet  in  diameter, 
and  declines  10  or  15  degrees  from  a  perpendicular.  It 
has  been  explored  to  the  depth  of  40  or  50  feet  and  30 
or  40  rods  in  length ;  and  the  ore  is  found  in  masses 
from  a  quarter  of  an  inch  to  a  foot  in  diameter.  The 
Journal  of  Science  remarks,  that  "at  the  depth  above 
mentioned,  the  water  became  so  abundant  that  it  was 
thought  advisable  to  abandon  a  perpendicular  explora- 
tion, and  to  descend  to  the  foot  of  the  hill  on  the  east, 
nearly  80  rods  from  the  vein,  and  attempt  a  horizontal 
drift,  or  adit ;  and  ever  since  its  commencement  ten  or 
twelve  years  ago,  the  working  of  the  vein  has  ceased. 
This  drift  is  now  carried  into  the  hill,  on  an  exact  level, 
nearly  60  rods,  and  the  workmen  told  me,  that  not  less 


338 


LEAD  MINE. 


than  $20,000  had  been  pxpendcd  upon  it.     The  rocks 
that  have  been  penetrated,  reckoning  from  the  month 
of  the  drift  inwards,  are  freest,  the  red  and  j^ray  slates 
of  the  coal  formation,  with  thin  beds  of  coal  and  mica 
slate,  and  granite  alternating.     Probably  the  funda- 
mental deposite  of  granite  is  now  uncovered  ;  and  the 
principal  vein  of  galena  cannot  be  far  distant.     Several 
small  bran< ''  vei'      of  crystalizcd   quartz  and  galena 
have  been  c;    '.-^  i;L  and  several  specimens  of  these  col- 
lected by  Dr.  *'nn;     »'ere  very  rich  and  beautiful ;  the 
crystals  of  pure  galena     ^metimes  exhibit,  on  their  fa- 
ces, insulated  crystals  of  honey  colored  carbonate  of 
lime.      The   principal   vein   will  be  found  not  less,  I 
should  judge,  than    150  feet   below  the  surface;  and 
when  that  time  comes,  it  is  confidently  expected,  not 
only  that  the  proprietors  will  be  rewarded  for  the  great 
expense  they  have  incurred,  but  also,  that  many  a  rich 
specimen  will  be  found  to  ornament  the  mineral  cabi- 
nets of  our  country,  and  to  vie  in  beauty  with  the  lead 
ores  of  Europe. 

The  mouth  of  the  drift  is  4  or  5  feet  wide,  and  about 
3  feet  above  the  surface  of  the  water.  The  water  is 
deep  enough  the  whole  length  of  it,  to  admit  the  pas- 
sage of  a  loaded  boat.  The  person  wishing  to  exydore 
this  internal  canal,  must  fire  a  gun  at  the  entrance,  or 
beat  heavily  with  a  sledge  on  the  timbers  that  support 
the  soil ;  in  10  or  15  minutes,  he  will  perceive  a  gentle 
undulation  of  the  water,  and  soon  after,  a  boat  advan- 
cing with  lighted  lamps  and  a  rower ;  having  seated 
himself  on  the  bottom  of  this  boat,  and  provided  him- 
self with  an  additional  garment,  he  is  prepared  for  his 
subterranean   expedition.     As   he  enters  the  paspnge. 


HADl.F.Y. 


339 


he  will  for  a  moment  experience,  or  imagine  lie  experi- 
ences, a  little  difficulty  of  breathing.  But  he  will  soon 
become  reconciled  to  his  condition  ;  and  after  passing 
about  100  feet  in  the  excavation,  for  which  distance  the 
soil  is  supported  by  timbers,  he  will  find  occasionally 
more  room,  so  ihnt  he  can  stand  erect.  If  he  looks 
back,  after  having  advanced  several  hundred  feet,  the 
light  at  thfc  entrance  will  appear  diminished  to  the  size 
of  a  candle ;  and  before  he  reaches  the  extremity,  it  be- 
comes invisible.  About  half  way  from  the  entrance  to 
the  end  of  the  drift,  he  will  pass  a  shaft,  down  whic' 
a  small  brook  is  turned,  for  the  purpose  of  aiding  th  ' 
ventilator.  When  he  reaches  the  end  of  the  drift,  e 
finds  himself  to  have  penetrc.ted  nearly  60  rods,  chiefly 
into  solid  rock. 

The  miners  do  not  qu5t  the  drift  when  they  bias  but 
retire  behind  a  breast  work  thrown  up  for  the  purpose. 
One  man  has  been  an  inmate  of  that  dark  recess  eight 
or  ten  years,  without  suffering  in  his  health. 

Every  mineralogist  passing  that  way,  will  of  course 
visit  this  drift.  Intelligent  gentlemen  without  profes- 
sional views,  and  even  ladies,  not  unfrequently  enter 
this  cavity." 

Hadley,  2  miles  from  Northampton,  is  one  of  the 
oldest  towns  in  the  state.  It  was  the  head  quarters  of 
the  army  employed  for  the  defence  of  the  towns  on 
the  Connecticut  river,  in  the  war  with  Philip  in  1675- 
6  ;  and  was,  for  a  long  time,  the  place  of  residence  of 
the  two  regicides  or  judges,  Whalley  and  Gofie,  in  the 
time  of  Charles  the  second.  On  the  town  being  at- 
tacked by  the  Indians  during  this  w^ar,  a  stranger,  ven- 
erable in  appearance,  and  difTering  in  his  apparel  from 


hS\ 


•mmmmtfrnf* 


3-40 


IIADLF.Y. 


llie  rest  of  tlic  inhabitants,  siuldcnly  presented  h!ins(;lt 
at  the  head  of  the  c(jh)nial  troops,  and  encouratjcd 
them  by  his  advice  and  example  to  porscvcrancft  in  <le- 
foitJing  tho  place.  To  Iiis  experience  in  military  tac- 
tics and  courage,  in  a  gjreat  mens n re,  was  a  defeiit  of 
the  Indians  attributable.  When  thny  retreated,  th(! 
stranger  disappeared  ;  and  in  those  times  of  supersti- 
tion, it  was  verily  believed  by  many  that  \yc  was  the 
guardian  angel  of  the  place.  But  he  wa3  no  other  than 
Col.  Goffe,  who  seeing  the  villa2:c  in  danger,  left  his 
concealment  to  unite  with  its  inhabitants  in  a  vigorous 
defence. 

In  connection  with  the  history  of  this  place,  the  fol- 
lowing biographical  sketch  of  Goffe,  Whalley  and  Dix- 
well  may  not  prove  uninteresting  : 

On  the  restoration  of  the  English  monarch,  Charles 
2d,  in  1660,  several  of  the  judges  who  sat  on  the  trial 
of  Charles  1st,  were  seized,  condemned  and  executed. 
Others,  foreseeing  the  result,  escaped.  Whalley  and 
Goffe,  two  of  the  number,  came  to  Boston  ;  where,  for 
a  time,  they  received  the  hospitality  due  to  their  rank. 
But  on  learning  that  several  of  the  regicides  had  been 
executed,  and  that  Whalley  and  Goffe  had  not  been  in- 
cluded in  the  act  of  pardon,  the  people  who  had  har- 
bored them  began  to  be  alarmed  ;  and  the  two  judges 
abruptly  departed  for  Connecticut.  Subsequently,  the 
King's  proclamation  was  received,  requiring  their  ap- 
prehension. They,  however,  eluded  the  vigilance  of 
their  pursuers,  by  secreting  themselves  in  a  cave  and 
other  secret  places  at  New-TTaven,  where  they  contin- 
ued, between  three  and  four  years,  until  their  retreat 
was  discovered  l)y  the   Indians,      Findino^   that    they 


could 
that  al 
they  r\ 


♦1. 


C01 


Rev. 
ter  a  tj 
in  OctI 
was  sii 

preseni 
cellar,! 
years, 
dence 
name 
Whal 
His  b( 
sort  of 
house. 
Not 
they  V 


bKLCHEHTUWN. 


341 


i  hiins(;lt 

3()lirujnrecl 

ce  in  (lu- 
tary  tac- 
dofont  of 
ited,  tho 
snpcrKti- 
waa  the 
her  than 
left  his 
I'igorons 

the  fol- 
nd  Dix- 

Charles 
the  trial 
ecuted. 
cy  and 
ere,  for 
ir  rank, 
id  been 
een  in- 
id  har- 
judges 
ly,  the 
oil-  ap- 
iice  of 
^c  and 
ontin- 
ctrcat 
they 


coidd  no  longer  remain  nt  Ncw-Ilaven  in  safety,  and 
that  a  vigilant  ncarch  for  them  was  still  continued, 
they  resolved  to  remove  into  a  more  secluded  part  of 
*!:c  country.  A  friend  had  succeeded  in  inducing  the 
Rev.  Mr.  Russell,  of  ITadley,  to  receive  them  ;  and  af- 
ter a  toilsome  journey  by  night,  they  reached  his  house 
in  October,  1C64.  In  a  chamber  of  this  house,  (which 
was  situate  on  the  east  side,  and  near  the  centre  of  the 
present  main  street,)  having  a  secret  passage  to  the 
cellar,  they  remained  undiscovered  for  fifteen  or  sixteen 
years.  During  this  period,  GofTe  held  a  correspon- 
dence with  his  wife  in  England,  under  an  assumed 
name  ;  and  in  a  letter  of  April,  1679,  it  is  stated  that 
Whalley  had  died  some  time  previous,  at  Mr.  Russers. 
Elis  bones  were  discovered  not  many  years  since  in  a 
sort  of  tomb  adjoining  the  cellar  wall  of  Mr,  Russell's 
house. 

Not  long  after  Goffc  and  Whalley  arrived  at  Hadley, 
they  were  joined  by  Col.  John  Dixwell,  another  of  the 
judges.  After  remaining  some  time,  he  went  to  New- 
Tlaven,  assumed  the  name  of  Davids,  was  married,  had 
several  children,  and  his  real  name  was  not  known  un- 
til his  death  in  1689.  He  was  buried  in  the  church- 
yard at  that  place ;  where  a  coarse  stone  still  marks 
the  spot  of  his  interment,  with  this  inscription  :  "J.  D. 
Esq.  deceased,  March  18,  in  the  82d  year  of  his  age — 
1688-9." 

After  the  death  of  Whalley,  Goffe  travelled  to  the 
south,  and  no  certain  information  relati^'e  to  his  fate  has 
ever  been  obtained. 

From  Hadley  to  Belchertown,  a  pleasant  village,  is 
10  miles  and  from  thence  to 


h 


342 


nuooKriLLD. 


i  ! 


Ware  Factouy  Village,  is  9  iniltrt  farther.  This 
place,  located  on  tlic  Ware  River,  has  attained  to  an 
astonishing  growth  witliin  a  short  time.  Tlicrc  are  few 
places  in  the  country  cxhihiting  so  harren  and  rup^ed  a 
soil  as  the  scite  and  lands  adjacent  to  this  flourishing 
little  city  in  miniature.  As  you  approach  from  the  west 
or  east,  it  bursts  upon  the  view  with  its  long  range  of 
manufauctories,  its  neat  white  houses,  and  glittering 
spires,  producing  the  same  sensation  in  the  bosom,  as 
the  prospect  of  a  beautiful  garden  in  the  midst  of  a  de- 
sert. It  contains  several  public  buildings  which  would 
be  an  ornament  to  our  most  flourishing  inland  towns  of 
more  ancient  date. 

Brookfield,  8  miles  from  Ware,  is  a  handsome  town, 
though  very  little  improved  by  any  recent  additions  of 
buildings.  This  place  was  burnt  by  the  Indians  in 
1675.  On  the  first  alarm  the  inhabitants,  in  all  about 
70,  repaired  to  a  house  slightly  fortified  externally  with 
logs,  and  internally  lined  with  feather  beds,  to  check 
the  force  of  musketry.  This  spot  was  soon  surround- 
ed by  the  enemy,  and  a  constant  fire  poured  upon  it  in 
all  directions.  But  the  well  directed  shots  of  the  be- 
sieged kept  the  Indians  at  a  considerable  distance. 
Various  devices  were  used  by  the  latter  for  burning  the 
building  ;  but  their  plans  were  thwarted  by  the  whites, 
aided  by  a  plentiful  shower  of  rain.  The  attack  con- 
tinued for  three  days ;  when  the  appearance  of  a  body 
of  troops  from  Lancaster  induced  the  Indians  to  seek 
their  own  safety  in  a  precipitate  retreat.  All  the  build- 
ings in  the  village  except  the  one  fortified,  were  de- 
stroyed. Only  one  of  the  inhabitants,  however,  was 
killed  ;  while  the  loss  of  the  Indians  was  80. 


LA 

pmy, 
cipal| 
ofw( 
ally 

Wl 


BOSTON   AND  WORCESTER  RAIL  ROAD. 


343 


Leicester,  12  miles.  The  village  contain»  an  acad- 
emy, 3  churches  and  about  80  dwellings.  The  prin- 
cipal employment  of  the  inhabitants  is  the  manufacture 
of  woollen  cards  ;  of  which  a  very  large  amount  is  annu- 
ally made. 

Worcester,  (G  miles,)  is  one  of  the  oldest  and  most 
respectable  towns  in  the  state.  It  contains  from  three 
to  four  hundred  houses,  generally  well  built.  Here  are 
also  a  bank,  four  printing  offices,  a  court-house  and  a 
jail.  A  newspaper  which  was  commenced  by  Isaiah 
Thomas  some  time  previous  to  the  revolutionary  war,  is 
still  published  here,  and  is  the  oldest  paper  in  the  Un- 
ion. Mr.  Thomas  was  the  author  of  an  elaborate  histo- 
ry of  the  art  of  printing,  and  continued  to  reside  here 
until  his  decease,  a  short  time  since.  He  erected  in  the 
village,  at  a  very  considerable  expense,  a  handsome  buil- 
ding, for  the  reception  of  the  library  and  cabinet  of  the 
American  Antiquarian  Society,  of  which  he  was  presi- 
dent. The  library  consists  of  about  6000  volumes,  ma- 
ny of  them  of  great  antiquity,  and  the  cabinet  is  also 
very  valuable. 

The  Blackstone  Canal  commences  at  this  place, 
and  extends  to  Providence,  R.  I.  Length  45  miles — 
expense  rising  of  $500,000. 

The  Boston  and  Worcester  Rail  Road  was  com- 
menced in  August,  1832,  and  when  completed,  will 
constitute  the  usually  travelled  route  between  the  two 
places.  Th  line,  as  survv^yed,  passes  from  Worscester 
through  Grafion,  Westborough,  Southborough,  Hop* 
kinton,  Framingiham,  Natick,  Needham,  Newton,  and 

EB 


► 


i 


X      ': 


344 


FROM   "'ARATOGA    SFUINC3    TO    nOSTOX 


I  ^i^ 


Brighton  to  Boston — distance  4?.^  mile.".  V/oicester  la 
456  feet  higher  than  Boston  ;  but  the  uroatt'st  descent 
in  any  one  place  is  estimated  at  only  30  feet  to  the  mile, 
and  the  average  descent  at  10^  feet.  The  estimated 
cost  is  a  little  less  than  y$l, 000,000  ;  and  the  amount  of 
passengers  which  will  pass  ov?r  the  road  annually,  has 
been  computed  at  50,000. 

From  Worcester  to  Boston,  over  the  stage  route,  the 
distance  is  40  miles,  through  a  rich  countrv,  variegated 
with  villages,  which  increase  in  size  and  importance  as 
the  tourist  advances  towards  tli;>  metropolis  of  the  state. 

Boston,  {Seep.  3G7.) 

FROM  SARATOGA  SPRINGS  TO  BOSTON. 
161  miles.     Intervening  distances  as  follows: 


Miles. 

Schuyler-Villc,  ...  12 

Union  village,. ...  5 

Cambridge, S 

Arlin-fon, 12 

Manchester, 12 

Landsgrove, 15 

Chester,... 15 

Bellows  Falls,  ...  14 

Walpole  Village,.  4 

Walpole, 4 

Keene, 14 

Marlborough, ....  5 


Miles. 

Jeffrey, 5 

New  Ipswich, 10 

Townsend, 12 

Pepperel, 6 

Groton, 3 

Littleton, 8 

Vcton, 3 

Concord, 7 

l/cxington, 7 

Cambridge,  , 7 

Boston, 3 


A  stage  leaves  Saratoga  Springs  every  morning 
(Sundays  excepted)  at  5  o'clock,  reaching  Manchester 
the  first  day,  Keene  the  second,  and  Boston  the  third, 
to  dine.     Fare  v<i7,50. 

ScHUYLER-ViLLE,  12  miles.  (Seep.  179.)  Passing 
across  the  vale  where  the  surrender  of  Burgoyne  took 


pla( 
joini 
an  i| 

uj 

es  t| 

erall 

in  tl 


mg.| 


cester  ig 
descent, 
he  mile, 
tiniated 
lount  of 
Uy,  has 

ite,  the 
eofated 
ince  as 
3  state. 


Miles. 
5 
10 
12 
6 
3 
8 
3 
7 
7 
7 
3 


ning 
2ster 
bird, 


sing 
^ook 


MAN'CIIESTEK CHEST  i:H. 


345 


place  to  the  rivt;r,  (on  the  bank  of  which  in  a  field  ad- 
joining the  road  on  the  north,  a.m  seen  the  remains  of 
an  intrenchment,)  the  stage  crosses  it  in  a  horse-boat. 

Union  ViLk.AGE,  5  miles.  The  Baltcnkill  river  pass- 
es through  the  village,  on  the  banks  of  which  are  sev- 
eral 'nills  and  factories.  There  are  about  150  houses 
in  the  place;  and  the  number  is  constantly  augment- 


ing. 


Cambridge   and    Arlington    are    good    agricultural 
townships.     In  the  latter  place,  the  route,  for  a  consid- 
erable distance  is  on  the  bank  of  the  Battenkill,  near 
which  are  several  valuable  and  extensive  quarries  of 
white  marble. 

Manchester,  12  miles  from  Arlington,  is  a  neat  vil- 
lage, located  near  the  foot  of  the  Green  Mountains, 
which  are  seen  stretching  to  the  north  and  south  as  far 
as  the  eye  can  extend.  Leaving  the  village,  the  stage 
soon  commences  ascending  the  great  natural  barrier 
which  separates  the  eastern  and  western  sections  of 
Vermont.  No  exertions  have  been  spared  to  improve 
the  road  ;  and  it  may  be  considero(^  by  lar  the  best  of 
any  which  crosses  the  mountain.  The  ascent,  which  is 
not  precipitous,  '.'ontlnues,  with  occasional  descents, 
for  10  or  12  miles  before  the  summit  is  reached.  Dur- 
ing the  first  six  miles,  a  most  extensive  and  variegated 
prospect  at  the  west  is  enjoyed  ;  and  after  attaining  the 
greatest  elevation,  this  is  suddenly  exchanged  for  a 
prospect  nearly  co-extensive  at  the  east. 

Chester,  30  miles  from  ^Manchester,  is  a  pleasant 
village,  situated  on  a  handsome  plain,  and  contains  two 
churches,  an  excellent  academy,  and  about  60  dv/el- 
linga  and  stores, 


\i  I 


m 


346 


%ELLOWS   FALLS. 


Bellows  Falls,  14  miles,  lies  on  the  western  bank 
of  the  Connecticut  river.  The  village  is  flourishing, 
contains  some  very  pleasant  houses,  a  number  of  man- 
ufactu;  ing  establishments,  and  a  beautiful  church,  which 
stands  on  an  eminence,  and  is  seen  for  some  miles  dis- 
tant. 

A  canal,  having  9  locks,  and  afTording  water  for  a 
number  of  mills,  has  been  constructed  around  the  fulls. 
It  is  about  half  a  mile  in  length.  The  whole  descent 
of  the  river  for  this  distance  is  50  feet,  and  assumes 
the  appearance  of  rapids  rather  than  a  cataract.  Over 
the  greatest  descent,  where  the  water  is  compressed 
by  ledges  of  rocks  to  a  very  narrow  space,  a  hand- 
some toll  bridge  is  erected,  50  feet  in  height,  from 
which  the  water  is  seen  rushing  through  the  pass  with 
great  rapidity,  and  dashing  upon  the  rocks  in  the  wild- 
est disorder — presenting  a  scene  truly  sublime  and  in- 
teresting. 

A  abort  distance  below  the  falls  are  two  rocks  con- 
taining specimens  of  Indian  vs'orkmanship.  On  one  of 
the  rocks  are  the  indistinct  traces  of  a  number  of  hu- 
man faces,  represented  by  marks  in  the  stone,  and 
probably  intended  as  a  memorial  of  their  deceased 
friends  or  chieftains.  That  this  place  was  once  the 
haunt  of  our  savage  predecessors,  is  evident  from  the 
arrow  points  and  bits  of  their  earthen  pots  and  frag- 
ments of  other  utensils  which  may  be  found  in  a  short 
walk  over  the  adjacent  fields.* 


*  From  Bellows  Falls,  stages  can  be  taken  every  day 
for  Concord,  N.  H.  and  for  Hartford,  Conn.  On  the 
latter  route,  the  course  is  generally  near  the  bank  of 


HALPOLE CONCORD. 


347 


Oil  the  New-Hampshire  side  is  a  cliain  of  lofty 
mountains,  which  leave  but  a  narrow  passage  between 
their  base  and  the  river.  Around  one  of  those  impend- 
ing barriers  the  road  winds  its  course  to  the  pleasant 
village  of 

Walpole,  which  contains  about  100  houses,  includ- 
ing some  very  handsome  mansions.  This  place  was 
the  scene  of  many  savacre  incursions  during  the  French 
war.  It  was  once  in  the  entire  possession  of  the  Indi- 
ans, and  retaken  from  them  by  Col,  Bellows,  who  made 
the  first  settlement  in  tiiis  part  of  the  country.  The 
scenery  in  this  vicinity  is  remarkably  striking  and  ro- 
mantic.    Ten  miles  farther  is  the  flourishing  village  of 

Keene.  This  is  one  of  the  handsomest  villages  in 
New-England,  and  is  situated  a  few  miles  cast  of  the 
Connecticut  river.  It  contains  about  250  dwellings,  a 
bank,  a  court  house  and  gaol,  3  churches,  and  a  pop- 
ulation of  about  2500.  For  a  distance  of  40  miles  from 
this  place  no  village  of  importance  intervenes,  though 
many  handsome  dwellings  and  rich  farms  are  discov- 
ered on  the  route. 

Groton,  41  miles  from  Kecne,  is  a  pleasant  village, 
containing  about  100  houses  and  an  academy  ;  seven 
miles  from  which  is  the  town  of 

Concord,  rendered  memorable  as  the  place  where 
the  first  eHncicnt  opposition  was  made  to  the  British 
troops,  in  1775.     It  is  a  large  town,  atid  contains  many 


li^ 


I 

1 


the  Connecticut  river,  and  through  a  most  delightful 
country,  interspersed  with  several  elegant  villages  and 
country  seats. 


f.eI 


<f{ 


348 


LKXINGTOM. 


'U- 


:i  \ 


handsome  dwellings.     Eight  miles  from  which  is  iha 
town  of 

Lexington,  containing  a  few  plain  houses  ;  but  cel- 
ebrated in  history  as  the  spot  where  the  first  American 
blood  was  shed  in  the  struggle  for  Independence.  This 
occurred  on  the  19th  of  April,  1775.  A  quantity  of  mil- 
itary stores  had  been  collected  at  Concord,  which  the 
British  General  Gage  proposed  to  destory.  Though  se- 
cret in  his  operations,  and  though  precaution  had  been 
taken  the  evening  previous  to  scour  the  roads  and  se- 
cure such  vcitizens  as  the  British  officers  fell  in  with,  yet 
the  plan  was  discovered  by  Doctor  Warren,  of  Boston, 
who  sent  out  messengers  to  alarm  the  inhabitants  ond 
prepare  them  for  resistance.  On  the  arrival  the  next 
morning  at  Lexington  of  the  British  troops,  8  or  900 
strong,  it  was  found  that  the  militia  of  the  town,  to  the 
number  of  70,  were  in  arms.  Major  Pitcairn,  who  led 
the  British  van,  ordered  the  "  rebels"  to  disperse. 
Some  scattering  guns  were  fired,  which  were  followed 
by  a  general  discharge,  and  continued  till  the  mihtia 
disappeared.  Eight  men  we:  .  :iled  and  several  woun- 
ded.* 

The  detachment  then  proceeded  to  Concord,  a  part  of 
which  took  possession  of  two  bridges  beyond  the  town, 
while  the  remainder  destroyed  the  military  stores.  A 
number  of  militia,  who  had  collected  in  the  vicinity, 
but  with  orders  not  to  give  the  first  fire,  attempted  to 
pass  one  of  the  bridges  in  the  character  of  travellers. 


They 
returnc 
discom] 
Skimdil 
British! 
their  r( 
cure  ui 
The  I 
wound 


*  A  handsome  monument  now  marks  the  spot  where 
this  "action  was  fought,  beneath  which  are  interred  the 
remains  of  the  Americans  who  were  slain. 


\* 


.ii'*l'.jr'-.. -^■' ^''^: 


]%i[ 


("AMBRIDifE. 


34'J 


ll 


16 


They  were  fired  on,  and  two  men  killed.  The  fire  was 
returned  and  a  skirmish  ensued,  which  resulted  in  the 
discomfiture  of  the  regulars,  and  a  precipitate  retreat. 
Skirmishing  continued  during  the  day,  and  though  Ww. 
British  received  reinforcements,  they  were  harrassed  in 
their  retreat  to  Bunker's  Hill,  where  they  remained  se- 
cure under  the  protection  of  their  ships  of  war. 

The  loss  of  the  British,  during  this  day,  in  killed, 
wounded  and  prisoners,  was  273  ;  while  that  of  the 
provincialists  did  not  exceed  90. 

The  blow  thus  struck  was  the  precursor  of  n^ore  im- 
portant events,  and  was  soon  followed  by  the  battle  of 
Breed's  or  (as  it  is  generally  denominated)  Bunker's 
Hill ;  which  is  noticed  in  subsequent  pages. 

Cambridge,  is  situated  7  miles  from  Lexington.  It 
is  a  large  and  handsome  town,  but  derives  its  impor- 
tance fro)n  Harvard  University,  which  is  located  here, 
and  is  one  of  the  oldest  and  most  celebrated  iiterarv  in- 
stitutions  in  the  United  States.  It  takes  its  name  from 
the  Rev.  John  Harvard,  who  died  in  163S,  leaving  to 
the  institution  a  legacy  of779^  lis.  2d.  sterling.  The 
edifices  belonging  to  the  University  are  Harvard,  Mas- 
sachusetts, Hollis,  Stoughton,  Holworthy  and  Univer- 
sity Halls,  Holden  Chapel,  a  new  stone  buildi  ^  re- 
cently erected,  and  3  College  houses,  besides  that  for 
the  President.  These  buildings  arc  all  situated  in  a 
spacious  square,  and  are  handsomely  shaded  with  a 
variety  of  trees.  There  are  annually  edu  ated  here 
about  300  students.  The  amount  of  property  belong- 
ing to  the  institution,  it  is  said,  falls  little  short  of  $600,- 
000.  It  contains  an  extensive  philosophical  aparatus, 
and  a  librarv  of  about  25,000  volumes.     Cambridge 


m  : 


n 


■'l;-.::'S|! 


3jO 


FKOM  WHITEHALL  TO  BOSTON. 


contains  3  handsome  villages,  a  court  house,  jail,  state 
arsenal,  8  houses  of  public  worship,  and  about  5000  in- 
habitants. 

Two  miles  from  Cambridge  is  the  city  of  Boston. 
The  two  places  are  connected  by  a  bridge  3846  feet 
long  and  40  wide,  with  a  causeway  of  3344  feet.  The 
cost  of  the  whole  was  #76,700.  [For  a  descnption  (f 
Boston^  see  p.  367.] 

FROM  WHITEHALL  TO  BOSTO;S— 178  miles. 

A  stage  leaves  Whitehall  daily,  (Sunday's  excepted) 
passing  through  the  villages  of  Castleton  and  Rutland, 
connecting  at  Chester  with  the  route  from  Saratoga 
Springs,  and  reaches  Boston  the  third  day. 

Faiuhaven,  9  miles  from  Whitehall,  contains  seve- 
ral mill:j  and  manufactories  ofiron,  and  about  50  houses. 

Ca?;tleton,  5  miles  farther,  a  handsome  village  of 
about  100  houses,  and  contains  the  Rutland  county 
academy  and  a  medical  college  ;  which  are  liberally 
patronized.  It  also  contains  a  classical  seminary,  located 
on  an  eminence  south  of  the  village,  and  commanding 
an  extensive  \  levv  of  a  rich  and  beautiful  country.  It  is 
160  feet  in  length  and  40  m  breadth,  with  projections 
in  the  centre  and  ends  of  46  and  55  feet,  and  is  3  stories 
high,  exi  lusive  of  a  basement.  To  the  building  is  at- 
tached a  plny-ground  of  about  six  acres,  a  part  of  which 
is  to  b^  dev*»i('J  to  a  garden.  The  course  of  instruc- 
tion lii  this  mstinition,  which  is  still  in  its  infancy,  is  de- 
signed to  correspond  with  that  of  the  most  favored  sem- 
inaries of  learning  in  the  country. 

About  ha' fa  mile  north  of  the  village,  at  the  junction 
of 'he  Hubbardton  with  the  main  road,  are  slight  re- 


mams  o 
during  t 
the  Hub 
vere  acti 
goyne's 
latter 
which  e^ 
commar 
strong ; 
same  ni 
obstinat 
Reidsel 
Americj 
loss  wa! 
wounde 
Gen.  St 
rally  su 
greater. 
The. 
in  the  B 
the  cap 
lowing. 

RUTI 

Rutlani 
Green  1 
beauty 
in  the  r 
three  cl 
Ten 
the  roJ 
which 
part  of 


RUTLAND. 


351 


mains  of  a  fort  and  breast  work,  which  were  occupied 
during  the  revolutionary  war  ;  two  miles  north  of  which 
the  Hubbarton  road  passes  over  the  ground  where  a  se- 
vere action  was  fought  between  a  detachment  of  Bur- 
goyne's  army  and  a  body  of  American  troops.  Th« 
latter  composed  the  rear  guard  of  the  Americans 
which  evacuated  Ticonderoga  in  July,  1777,  and  were 
commanded  by  Col.  Warner.  They  were  about  1000 
Btrong ;  and  were  overtaken  by  a  force  of  nearly  the 
same  number  under  Gen.  Frazer.  A  long,  severe,  and 
obstinate  conflict  ensued  ;  when  the  arrival  of  General 
Reidsell,  with  his  division  of  Germans,  compelled  the 
Americans  to  give  way  in  all  directions.  The  British 
loss  was  stated  by  Gen.  Burgoync  at  35  killed  and  144 
wounded  ;  and  the  American  loss  was  estimated  by 
Gen.  St.  Clair  at  50  killed  and  wounded.  It  is  gene- 
rally supposed  that  the  loss  of  both  armies  was  much 
greater. 

The  Americans  retreated  to  the  south,  and  took  part 
in  the  Bennington  battle  on  the  16th  of  August,  and  in 
the  capture  of  Burgoyne  at  Saratoga  in  October  fol- 
lowing. 

Rutland,  10  miles  from  Castleton,  is  the  capitol  of 
Rutland  county.  It  is  situated  3  miles  west  of  the 
Green  Mountains,  in  view  of  Killington  Peak,  and  for 
beauty  of  local  situation  is  not  surpassed  by  any  village 
in  the  northern  states.  It  contains  abuut  lf)Ohoiis<s, 
three  churches,  a  bank,  a  court  house,  and  a  gaol. 

Ten  miles  frotn  Rutland,  in  the  town  of  Shrewsbury, 
the  road  reaches  the  foot  of  the  Green  IVJountains, 
which  are  crossed  in  travelling  12  miles  farther.  No 
part  of  the  passage  is  precipitous  ;  though  the  road  is 


i 


i' 


352 


FllOM   BURLINGTON   TO  LOSTON. 


"'"■  ■■^ 


less  plcasaiit  than  that  leadmg  from  Manchester.     {Stt 
p.  345.) 

Chester  is  40  inilea  from  Rutland  ;  from  whence 
the  route  to  Boston  is  the  same  at  that  noticed  at  page 
346. 

FROM  BURLINGTON  TO  BOSTON, 

(through  JVindsor,  Vt.) 
From  Burlington,  Vt.  where  the  Champlain  steam- 
boots  touch  in  the  passage  up  and  down  tlie  lake,  sta- 
ges depart  for  Boston  three  times  a  week,  passing 
through  Montpclicr  and  Windsor,  Vt.  Clarcmont  and 
Amherst,  N.  H.,  Billerica  and  Medford,  Mass.,  and 
reach  Boston  on  the  third  day.  Distance  206  miles — 
Fare  $8.     The  intervening  distances  are  as  follows: 

Miles. 

Lempster, 12 

Washington, 7 

Hillsborough, 9 

Francistown, 9 

Mount  Vernon, 9 

Amherst, 6 

Alerrimack, 3 

Dunstable, 7 

Tyngsborough, ,  6 

Chelmsford, 7 

Billerica, ,  4 

W^oburn, 9 

Boston, 10 


Miles. 

W^illiston, 8 

Richmond, 9 

Bolton, 2 

Waterbury, 8 

Moretown, 4 

MtPtpelicr, 7 

Wihiamstown, 10 

Brooktickl, S 

Randolph, 12 

Rovalton, 3 

Barnard, 6 

AVoodsLock, 8 

W' indsor, 14 

Claremont, 9 

Burlington.     (See  page  3'27.) 

Montpelier,  is  situated  on  the  Onion  River,  a  little 
north  of  the  centre  of  the  state,  38  miles  from  Burling- 
ton.     It  is  at  present  the  seat  of  government,  and  has 


a  8tate-h< 

worship, 

ments. 

With  t 
the  river 
and  moui 
Fion  from 
miles  pre 
it,  is  on  t 
ry  is  unu 

In  pasf 
on  what 
miles  in 
a  sufficiei 
tifully  trr 
ces,  a  bol 

Rand( 
ridge  of 
state.     1 
location  i 

ROTAI 
WOOE 

ty,  is  a  p 
village,  ( 
Clueechj 
church  a 
factory  c 

WlNT 

bank  oft 
and  bar 
richly  ci 


i      < 


WIVPSOR, 


S.S.^ 


{Stt 


;am- 
sta- 


[A2 
7 
9 
9 
9 
6 


a  state-housp,  court-house,  paol  and  a  house  of  public 
worship,  besides  a  number  of  manufacturing  establish- 
ments.    It  contains  about  2000  inhabitants. 

With  the  exception  of  a  narrow  vale,  throutrh  which 
the  river  passes,  the  villa£^e  is  surrounded  by  lofty  hills 
and  mountains,  which  give  it  the  aj)pcarance  of  seclu- 
sion from  the  rest  of  the  world.  The  road  for  several 
miles  previous  to  reachino;thc  villajre,  and  after  leaving 
it,  is  on  the  bank  of  the  river,  and  the  mountain  scene- 
ry is  unusually  romantic. 

In  passing  from  Montpclier  to  Randolph,  the  route  is 
on  what  is  termed  the  gulph  road.  This  gulph  is  six 
miles  in  extent,  between  loAy  mountains,  with  barely 
a  sufficient  space  for  a  road  and  the  White  river,  a  beau- 
tifully transparent  stream,  exhibiting,  in  most  instan- 
ces, a  bottom  of  white  gravel. 

Randolph,  30  miles  from  Montpelier,  is  on  a  lofty 
ridge  of  land,  affording  some  of  the  finest  farms  in  tho 
state.  The  village  is  small,  but  much  admired  for  its 
location  and  neatness. 

RoTALTON,  3  miles.     A  pleasant  village. 

WooDSTOcv,  14  miles,  the  capital  of  Windsor  coun- 
ty, is  a  place  of  considerable  business.  The  principal 
village,  called  Woodstock  Green,  is  on  the  bank  of  the 
Ctueechy  river,  and  contains  a  bank,  court  house,  jail, 
church  and  a  marble  factory — also  nn  extensive  manu- 
factory of  scythes. 

Windsor,  14  mile.s,  is  a  beautiful  town  on  the  west 
bank  of  the  Connecticut.  The  houses  exhibit  a  very  neat 
and  handsome  appearance,  and  stand  in  a  fcrU^a  and 
richly  cultivated  tract  of  country.     It  contains  a  bank, 


I 


■*•  "^twKts^ifcj^  "M^^Aw  m 


h  V, 


354 


ROUTE  TO  THE   WHITE   MOUNTAINS. 


i:     1 


Female  Seminary,  a  number  of  churches,  and  the 
Vermont  Pcnitontiary.  The  bridge  built  across  the 
Connecticut  at  this  place  is  one  of  the  handsomest 
on  the  river,  ^scutney,  a  mountain  in  the  southwest 
part  of  the  town,  is  1 732  feet  in  height,  and  is  well  wor- 
thy the  attention  of  those  who  take  delight  in  the  rich 
and  diversified  prospects  afforded  from  mountain  aum- 
mits. 

At  Windsor,  the  route  crosses  the  Connecticut  river 
into  New-Hampshire,  and  proceeds  through  a  fertile 
country,  occasionally  interspersed  with  a  pleasant  vil- 
lage, to  Boston. 

FROM  BURLINGTON  TO  BOSTON, 

{By  wny  of  the  White  Mountains  and  Concord^  JsTew- 

Hampshire) — 275  miles.* 
The  intermediate  distances  on  this  route  are  as  fol- 
lows: 


From  Burlington  to    Miles. 

Montpelier,. . ..  38 
Littleton,  N.  H . . .  40 
E.  A.  Crawford's,  18 
Notch  of  the  White 

Mountains, ....  5 
Notch  House,. .. .  2 
Crawford's  Farm,      6 

Bartlett, 7 

Conway, 10  126 

Six  Mile  Pond, .. ,   11 
Centre  Harbor,. . .  24 

Guilford, 13 

Union  Bridge, ....     7 


Miles. 
Winnepiseogee 

Bridge, 4 

Concord, 17  202 

Hookset, 8 

Amoskeag, 7 

Piscataqua, 2 

Merrimack, 10 

Nashua, 6 

Tyngsboro', 8 

Lowell, 7 

By  rail  road, 

Boston, 25  275 


*  Strangers  designing  to  proceed  directly  to  Boston 
from  Burlington,  via  Concord,  N.  H.  without  visiting 


A  sto 
for  M( 
commc 

40  mil 

passes 

Mount 

(Main« 

A.  Cra 

about 

but  th( 

but  for 

The 

guishc 

which 

short  c 

is  not 


theWl 

pclicr  1 

to  Hal 

(Thei 

p.  365 

a  mih 

build  ii 

house 

Earlc 

was  f 

lock, 

stituti 

moda 

for  st 

alogi< 

bcr  o 

tweei 


ROUTE  TO  THE   WHITF,  MOUNTAINS. 


355 


A  stage  can  be  taken  at  Burlintrton  3  times  a  week 
for  Montpelicr,  Vt.  distant  33  miles,  wliere  it  is  re- 
commended to  travellers  to  proceed  to  Littleton,  N.  H. 
40  miles  east  of  Montpelier,  from  whence  a  stage 
passes  twice  a  week  through  the  jsTotch  of  the  White 
Mountains  to  Conway  ;  and  from  thence  to  Portland, 
(Maine,)  three  times  a  week.  From  Littleton  to  Ethan 
A.  Crawford's,  at  the  foot  of  the  mountains,  18  miles, 
about  half  the  distance  is  through  a  cultivated  country; 
but  the  remainin":  part  is  through  an  extensive,  and, 
but  for  the  road,  an  impenetrable  forest. 

The  first  view  of  the  White  Mountains,  as  distin- 
guished from  the  multitude  of  peaks  and  summits 
which  meet  the  eye  in  every  direction,  is  obtained  a 
short  distance  from  Littleton  ;  but  INIount  Washington 
is  not  seen  till  arriving  near  to  Crawford's.     The  first 


the  White  Mountains,  continue  on  the  routofrom  Mont- 
pelicr to  Randol})h,  as  noticed  at  p.  352,  and  from  thence 
to  Hanover,  25  miles,  and  to  Concord  55  miles  farther. 
(The  route  from  the  latter  place  to  Boston  is  noticed  at 
p.  365.)  Hanover  is  located  on  a  handsome  plain, half 
a  mile  from  the  Connecticut  river,  and  contains  the 
buildings  of  Dartmouth  college  and  about  80  dwelling 
houses.  The  college  derives  its  name  from  William, 
Earl  of  Dartmouth,  one  of  its  principal  benefactors.  It 
was  founded  in  1769,  by  the  late  Doct.  Eleazer  Whee- 
lock,  and  is  in  a  flourishing  condition.  A  medical  in- 
stitution is  connected  with  the  college,  and  is  accom- 
modated with  a  brick  edifice,  containing,  besides  rooms 
for  students,  a  laboratory,  anatomical  museum,  miner- 
alogical  cabinet,  library  and  lecture  rooms.  The  num- 
ber of  students  educated  at  this  college  annually  is  be- 
tween 2  and  300. 

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Hiotographic 

Sciences 

Corporation 


23  WIST  MAIN  STIHT 

WEBSTH.N.Y.  MSSO 

(716)  •73-4503 


'1^ 


350 


WHITE    MOUNTi\lNd. 


't!l 


li'T 


'4 


I 

a 


view  of  these  mountains  is  magnificent,  and  as  they 
are  approached  they  become  more  and  more  so,  until 
the  bare  bleak  summit  of  Mount  Washington,  rising 
far  above  the  immense  piles  which  surround  it,  strikes 
the  traveller  with  awo  and  astonishment.  But  the  emo- 
tions which  one  recrivos  from  the  grand  and  majestic 
scenery  which  surrounds  him  here,  are  utterly  beyond 
the  power  of  description.  There  is  no  single  object 
upon  which  the  eye  rests  and  w'hich  the  mind  may 
grasp,  but  the  vast  and  multiplied  features  of  the  land- 
scape actually  bewilder  while  they  delight. 

These  mountains  are  the  loftiest  in  the  U.  States  east 
of  the  Rocky  Mountains ;  and  their  heights  above  the 
Connecticut  river  have  been  estimated  as  follows  : 
Washington,  5350  ft. ;  Jefrcrson,5261  ;  Adams,  5383  ; 
Madison,  5039 ;  Monroe,  4932 ;  Ctuincy,  4470.  From 
the  summit  of  Mount  AVashinirton,  the  Atlantic  ocean 
is  seen  at  Portland,  G5  miles  S.  E. ;  the  Katahdin 
Mountains  to  the  N.  E.  near  the  sources  of  the  Penob- 
scot river ;  the  Green  Mountains  of  Vermont  on  the 
west ;  Mount  Monadnock,  120  miles  to  the  S.  W. ;  and 
numerous  lakes,  rivers, &c.  within  a 'Css  circumference. 
The  J^otch  or  Gap  is  on  the  west  side  of  the  mountains, 
and  is  a  deep  and  narrow  defile,  in  one  place  only  22 
feet  wide.  A  road  passes  through  which  is  crossed  by 
the  river  Saco ;  into  which  several  tributary  streams 
enter  from  the  mountain  heights,  forming  many  beau- 
tiful cascades.  Lafayette  Mountain  is  situated  in  the 
northeast  part  of  the  township  of  Franconia,  nearly 
equidistant  from  Mount  Washington  at  the  northeast, 
and  Moose-Hillock  at  the  southwest,  being  about  20 
miles  from  each;  and  it  is  obviously  more  elevated 


WHITE   MOCNTAINS. 


(J/ 


than   any   other   summit  in   sight,  except  the    White 
Mountams. 

At  the  iranconia  Notch,  near  the  road  leading  from 
Franconia  to  Plymouth,  and  about  three  miles  south  of 
Mount  Lafayette,  a  foot  path  has  been  cleared  out  from 
the  road  to  the  top  of  the  mountain.  The  point  where 
the  path  rouimcnccs  is  six  miles  from  the  Franconia 
iron  works,  and  the  length  of  it  from  the  road  to  the 
summit  is  three  miles  :  and  throu^diout  this  distance 
it  ia  almost  uniformly  steep.  The  ascent  for  the  dis- 
tance of  about  two  miles  is  through  a  thick  forest  of 
hemlock,  spruce,  &c.  Higher  up,  the  mountain  is  en- 
compassed with  a  zone,  ab.)ut  half  a  mile  in  width,  cov- 
ered with  stunted  trees,  chiefly  hemlock  and  spruce. 
Above  the  upper  edge  of  this  zone,  which  is  about  half 
a  mile  from  the  top,  trees  and  shrvibs  disappear.  The 
summit  is  composed  chiefly  of  bare  rocks,  partly  in 
largo  masses,  and  partly  broken  into  small  pieces. 

The  vi"w  from  the  top  is  exceedingly  picturesque 
and  magnificent.  Although  it  is  not  so  extensive  as 
that  fiom  the  summit  of  Mount  AVashington,  yet  ow- 
ing to  the  more  advantageous  situation  of  Lafayette, 
being  more  central  as  it  respects  this  mountainous  re- 
gion, it  is  not  inferior  to  it  in  cither  beauty  or  grandeur. 
The  view  to  the  north-east,  cast,  south  and  southwest, 
is  one  grand  panorama  of  mountain  scenery,  present- 
ing more  than  fifty  summits,  which  when  viewed  from 
this  elevation  do  not  appear  to  diflVr  greatly  in  height. 
Some  of  these  mountains  are  covered  with  verdure  to 
the  top,  while  the  summits  of  others  are  composed  of 
naked  rocks  ;  and  down  the  sides  of  many  of  them 
fltiay  be  seen  sHUs  or  avalanches  of  earth,  rocks  aad 


358 


WHITE  MOUNTAIN'S. 


trees  more  or  leas  extensive,  wliuli  serve  to  diversify 
the  scene.  Tlie  only  appearance  of  cultivation  in  this 
whole  compass  is  confined  to  a  few  farms  seen  in  a  di- 
rection west  of  south,  on  the  road  to  Plymouth,  extend- 
ing along  the  Pemigewasset  branch  of  the  Merrimack. 
To  the  west  is  seen  the  territory  watered  by  the  Con- 
necticut and  the  Ammonoosuck. 

At  a  place  in  the  road  through  the  Franconia  Notch 
where  the  path  up  the  mountain  commences,  is  exhi- 
bited to  the  view  of  the  traveller,  on  the  mountain 
opposite  to  Lafayette,  the  Profile  or  the  Old  Man  of  the 
Mountain^  a  singular  lusus  natiirfc,  and  a  remarkable 
curiosity.  It  is  situated  on  the  brow  of  the  peak  or 
precipice,  which  rises  almost  perpendicularly  from  the 
surface  of  a  small  lake,  directly  in  front,  to  the  height 
(as  estimated)  of  from  GOO  to  1000  feet.  The  front  of 
this  precipice  is  formed  of  solid  rock,  but  as  viewed 
from  the  point  where  the  profile  is  seen,  the  whole  of  it 
appears  to  be  covered  with  trees  and  vegetation,  ex- 
cept about  space  enough  lor  a  side  view  of  the  Old 
Man's  bust.  All  the  principal  features  of  the  human 
face,  as  seen  in  a  profile,  arc  formed  with  surprising 
exactness.  The  little  lake  at  the  bottom  of  the  preci- 
pice is  about  half  a  mile  in  length,  and  is  one  of  the 
sources  of  the  Pemigewasset  river.  Half  a  mile  to  the 
north  of  this,  there  is  another  lake,  suiroimdod  with 
romantic  scenery,  nearly  a  mile  in  length,  and  more 
than  half  a  mile  in  breadth.  This  is  one  of  the  sources 
of  the  southern  branch  of  the  Ammonoosuck,  which 
flows  into  the  Connecticut.  These  lakes  are  both  sit- 
uated in  the  Notch,  very  near  the  road,  and  near  to 
the  point  where  the  steep  ascent  of  Mount  Lafayette 


WHITE  MOL'NT  VIN^. 


351) 


commences.  The  northern  lake  is  900  feet  above  tha 
eite  of  the  Franconia  iron-wcrka,  and  the  highest  point 
m  the  road  through  the  Notch  is  102S  feet  above  the 
same  level.  Other  curiositi<^a  in  this  vicinity  are,  the 
Basin  and  the  Pulpit. 

The  portion  of  the  Gap,  including  the  Notch  in  the 
White  Mountains^  which  is  the  most  sublime  and  inter* 
csting,  is  about  5  or  G  miles  in  length.     It  is  composed 
of  a  double  barrier  of  mountains,  rising  very  abruptly 
from  both  sides  of  tlie  wild  roaring  river  Saco,  which 
frequently  washes  the  feet  of  both  barriers.    Sometimes 
there  is  not  room  for  a  single  carriage  to  pass  between 
the  stream  and  the  mountains,  and  the  road  is  cut  into 
the  mountain  itself.     This  double  barrier  rises  on  each 
side  to  the  height  of  nearly  half  a  rnilc  in  perpendicular 
altitude,  and  is  capped  here  aud  there  by  proud  castel- 
lated turrets,  standing  high  above  the  continued  ridges. 
These  are  not  straight,  l>ut  are  formed  into  numerous 
zitT-zas  turns,  which  frequontlv  cut  off  the  view  and 
seem  to  imprison  the  traveller  in  the  vast,  gloomy  gulf. 
Tae  sides  of  the  mountains  are  deeply  furrowed  and 
scarred  by  the  tremendous  effects  of  the   memorable 
delusre  and  avalanches  of  1826.     No  tradition  existed 
of  any  slide  in  former  times,  and  such  as  are  now  ob- 
served to  have  formerly  happened,  had  been  complete- 
ly veiled  by  forest  growth  and  shrubs.     At  length,  on 
the  28th  of  June,  two  months  before  \he  fatal  avalanche, 
there  was  one  not  far  from  the  AVilley  house,  which 
so  far  alarmed  the  family,  thai  they  erected  an  encamp- 
ment a  little  distance  from  their  dwelling,  intending  it 
as  a  place  of  refuge.     On  the  fatal  night,  it  was  impene- 
trably dark  and  frigi-tfully  tempestuous ;  the  lonely 

ff2 


M' 


•iGo 


U'llllE   MOUNTAINS. 


family  had  retired  to  rest,  in  their  humble  dwelhng,  six 
miles  from  the  nearest  human  (;reature.  The  avalan- 
ches  descended  in  every  part  of  the  gulf,  for  a  distance 
of  two  miles  ;  and  a  very  heavy  one  bejj^un  on  the 
mountain  top,  immediately  above  the  house,  and  de- 
scended in  a  direct  line  towards  it ;  the  sweeping  tor- 
rent, a  river  from  the  clouds,  and  a  river  full  of  trees, 
earth,  stones  and  rocks,  rushed  to  the  house  and  mar- 
vellously divided  within  six  feet  of  it,  and  just  behind 
it,  and  passed  on  either  side,  sweeping  away  the  stable 
and  horses,  and  completely  encirchng  the  dwelling,  but 
leaving  it  untouched.  At  this  time,  probably  towards 
midnight,  (as  the  state  of  the  beds  and  apparel,  &c. 
shewed  that  they  had  retired  to  rest,)  the  family  issued 
from  their  house,  and  were  swept  away  by  the  torrent. 
Search,  for  two  or  three  dnys,  was  made  in  vain  for 
the  bodies,  when  they  w(  re  at  length  found.  They 
were  evidently  floated  along  by  the  torrent  and  covered 
by  the  drift  wood.  A  pole,  with  a  board  nailed  across 
it,  like  a  guide  post,  now  indicates  the  spot  where  the 
bodies  were  found.  Had  the  family  remained  in  the 
house  they  would  have  been  entirely  safe.  Even  the 
little  green  in  front  and  east  of  the  house  was  undis- 
turbed, and  a  flock  of  sheep,  (a  part  of  the  possession 
of  the  family)  remained  on  this  small  spot  of  ground, 
and  v/ere  found  there  the  next  morning  in  safety — al- 
ihough  the  torrent  dividing  just  above  the  house,  and 
forming  a  curve  on  both  sides,  had  swept  completely 
around  them,  and  again  united  below,  and  covered  the 
meadows  and  orchard  with  ruins,  which  remain  there 
to  this  day.  Nine  persons  were  destroyed  by  this  ca- 
tastrophe, and  the  story  of  their  virtues  and  their  fate 


IS  ot 


WHITE  MOUNTAINS. 


361 


is  often  told  to  the  traveller  by  the  scattered  popula- 
tion of  these  mountain  valleys,  in  a  style  of  simple 
pathos  and  minuteness  of  detail,  which  has  all  the  in- 
terest of  truth  and  incident  of  romance  in  its  recital. 
The  scene  of  this  disaster  was  about  7  miles  from 
Ethan  A.  Crawford's,  and  2  miles  from  he  commence- 
ment of  the  Notch,  where  Thomas  Crawford,  a  brotiier 
of  Ethan,  now  resides. 

The  number  of  visitors  to  the  White  Mountains  has 
been  considerably  increased,  on  account  of  the  interest 
excited  by  these  avalanches.  The  most  sublime  views  of 
them,  (several  of  which  are  nearly  equal  to  the  memo- 
rable one  which  swept  away  the  unfortunate  Willey 
family,)  may  be  seen  all  alon«^  for  several  miles,  in 
passing  through  the  Notch.  They  are  also  observed 
from  various  points  in  the  country  around,  extending 
down  the  sides  of  many  of  the  elevated  mountains ; 
and  the  astonishing  effects  of  this  extraordinary  inun- 
dation are  also  witnessed  in  the  great  enlargement  of 
the  channels  of  the  streams  which  rise  in  these  clusters 
of  mountains.  This  is  the  fact  especially  with  regard  to 
the  channel  of  the  principal  branch  of  the  Ammonoo- 
suck,  which  rises  near  the  summit  of  Mount  Washing- 
ton. 

The  camp  which  was  built  by  Mr.  Crawford  for  the 
accommodation  of  visitors  over  night,  two  miles  and 
a  quarter  from  the  summit  of  Mount  Washington,  was 
situated  near  this  branch,  and  was  carried  away  by 
the  swelling  of  the  stream.  A  small  camp  has  been 
erected  in  its  place,  but  it  is  of  little  use,  and  affords  no 
accommodations  for  lodging  visitors  over  night. 


i::.-:P4^l^liMUm. 


il 

35.  » 
*    i 


kM 


11 


36-2 


rRYrr.tR(;n. 


M'hc  diptanre  from  Crawford's  house  to  the  summit 
of  ?vJount  ^Va!^hlnJiton,  is  nine  milcH.  Through  a  part 
of  this  dij^tant'C  a  cairiuge  road  is  now  made,  leaving 
only  -1  or  5  niihs  to  ho  astrnded  on  foot.  I'he  time 
\L^iia!lv  occupied  in  ascoiuling  the  moimtain,  reckoning 
from  thn  time  of  kaviii/L'  Crawford's  iionso  to  the  time 
of  r»tuinin«i  to  it  aLrain,  is  from  ton  to  fourteen  hours  ; 
and  the  shortest  time  in  which  tlie  enterprise  has  heen 
perfoimcd  is  about  oifrht  hours. 

Continuing  the  route  through  the  Notch,  the  first 
house  reached,  is  the  Elder  Crawford's,  six  miles  from 
the  "  Notch  house,"  as  that  once  oecu[)ied  by  the  un- 
fortunate Willoy  is  called.  From  thence  to  Bartlett  is 
seven  miles.  From  this  place  to  Conway,  which  is  ten 
miles,  there  are  more  appearances  of  cultivation,  par- 
ticularly in  the  little  valley  through  which  the  road  pass- 
es. The  country  around,  however,  is  still  wild  and 
unimproved,  displaying  a  succession  of  bold  and  lofty 
mountain  scenery.  The  prospect  at  the  village  of 
Conway  is  bounded  on  the  north  and  west  by  high 
mountains,  and  the  several  summits  of  the  White  Moun- 
tains, rising  at  30  miles  distant,  are  more  easily  distin- 
guished than  at  any  point  near  them. 

Fryeburgh,  ill  Maine,  is  10  miles  from  Conway, 
and  is  generally  taken  in  the  route  to  the  White 
Mountains  from  the  east.  It  is  a  considerable  villasre. 
built  upon  a  wide  plain  upon  two  broad  streets,  and 
has  a  respecable  academy.  It  is  chiefly  intere  'mg 
as  being  associated  with  the  early  history  of  our  country. 
About  a  mile  from  the  village  is  Lovell's  pond,  the  scene 
of  the  bloody  fight  in  1725  between  a  gallant  band  of 
Americans  under  Capt.  LovcU,  and  the  remnant  of  the 


FR( 

Pequa> 
From  t| 
IS  over 
designij 
White 
[for  a 
to  that 

fr| 

Ret\ 

to  Con 

and  C< 

The  ro 

ed  witl 

settlen 

Cen 

largest 

6  to  14 

Bublim 

Winni 

the  lal 

Harbc 

about 

exten 


*l 

lake, 
subs1 
of  3( 
an  e 
the^ 


nl 


time 

time 
11  rs  ; 
Deen 


FROM  CONWAf   TO  tONCORD — CKN  TRK   HARBOR.    363 

Pequawcket  tribe  under  the  renowned  Chief  Paugus. 
From  Fryeburgh  to  Portland,  distant  52  miles,  the  road 
IS  over  a  dull  and  uninteresting  country ;  but  travellers 
designing  to  visit  that  place  in  connection  witli  the 
White  Mountains,  will  find  it  the  most  direct  route. 
[For  a  description  of  Portland,  see  the  route  from  Boston 
to  that  place  in  subsequent  pages.] 

FROM  CONWAY  TO  CONCORD,  N.  H. 

7G  miles. 
Returning  to  Conway,  and  proceeding  on  the  route 
to  Concord,  Six  Mile  Pond  is  passed  in  going  1 1  miles, 
and  Centre  Harbor  is  reached  in  going  24  miles  farther. 
The  road  for  20  or  30  miles,  is  through  a  valley  border- 
ed with  lofty  mountains,  exliibiting  only  an  occasional 
settlement. 

Centre  Harbor  is  on  Lake  Winnipiseogee,*  the 
largest  lake  in  the  state.  It  is  23  miles  long  and  from 
6  to  14  broad,  and  is  remarkable  for  its  beautiful  and 
sublime  scenery.  It  discharges  its  waters  through  the 
Winnipiseogee  river  into  the  Merrimack,  232  feet  below 
the  lake.  From  the  top  of  Red  Mountain  in  Centre 
Harbor,  1500  feet  high,  and  which  is  accessible  for 
about  two  thirds  of  the  way  in  a  carriage,  there  is  an 
extensive  prospect.     At  the  distance  of  70  miles  to  the 


li 


I 


*  It  is  in  contemplation  to  place  a  steam  boat  on  this 
lake,  to  run  from  Centre  Harbor  to  Allen  Bay,  thus 
substituting  a  water  communication  of  25  miles,  mstead 
of  30  miles  of  laborious  land  carriage.  It  would  open 
an  easy  route  from  Boston  und  Portsmouth,  N.  H.  to 
the  White  Mountains, 


I 

L 


14'  -A 


£»  r 


364 


SqrAM   LAKE — COSrORD. 


eoufhwest,  may  be  seen  Mount  Monadnock  ;  at  the 
west,  the  Kyarsat?e  and  .Siuison  mountains  ;  at  the 
northwest  the  JVIooee-llillock  ;  at  the  nortli,  the  Sand- 
wich njountains,  with  the  Squani  lake  inteivening  ;  at 
the  southeast,  thi;  \\'iniiipiseoj[,'e(>  lake,  with  its  numer- 
ous ishuids,  hayf,  and  the  mountains  wliich  rise  from 
its  holders,  in«  ludiiij;  Ossippce  on  the  northeast,  Gun- 
plock  on  IJK!  south,  and  a  semi-circular  mounlaiti  at  the 
termination  of  the  lake  at  the  f^otithcast,  the  whole 
forming  a  vast  billowy  ocean  of  lofty  mountains,  with 
their  grand  intersecting  curves,  exhibiting  a  complete 
panorama  of  the  sublimest  mountain  scenery. 

Squam  Lake,  which  lies  west  of  the  mountain,  is  10 
miles  long  and  5  wide,  and  like  the  Winnipiscogee,  is 
sprinkled  witli  numerous  small  and  beautiful  islands- 
The  finest  of  trout  are  ca>ight  in  these  lakes,  and  tlieir 
shores  abound  with  an  abundance  of  game,  afToidin  g 
to  the  angler  and  fowler  ampin  means  of  cmp]oym':nt 
as  well  as  amusement. 

The  route  from  Centre  Harbor  to  Concord,  41  milos, 
passes  through  an  interesting  country,  aflbrding  a  view 
of  several  flourishing  manufacturing  villnges. 

Concord  is  the  capitcl  of  New-Hampshire.  The 
village  is  principally  composed  of  two  streets  on  the 
west  bank  of  the  I^.leriimuek  river.,  and  contains  a  state 
house,  state  prison,  town  liuuse,  bank,  several  church- 
es, 4  or  5  printing  ofllces,  and  about  250  dweUing-hous- 
cs.  The  state  house,  located  near  the  centre  of  the 
village,  is  an  elegant  building  of  hewn  granite,  100 
feet  long,  with  a  large  hall  on  the  first  floor,  and  the 
senate  and  representatives'  chambers  on  the  secondt 


The  b 
19  end 
a  strol 
house' 
Th( 
from  (I 
the  coj 
2S  mill 


ROUTE  FROM  CONCORD   TO  DO^TO!*. 


3C3 


The  building  is  surrounded  hy  a  spacious  yard,  which 
19  enclosed  with  a  handsonin  wall.  The  state  prison, 
a  strong  buildinf^,  is  a  short  distance  from  t'.ie  state 
houso. 

The  Merrimack  river  is  navipahlo  for  lar«je  boata 
from  Concord  to  Chelmsford  ;  from  whence  to  Boston 
tho  communication  is  continued  in  the  Middlesex  canal, 
28  miles  long. 

FROM  CONCORD  TO  BOSTON— 73  miles. 

Statres  leave  Concord  every  day,  passing  through 
Hooksct,  Amoskeag,  Piscataqua,  Merrimack,  Nashua, 
and  Tyngsboro'  to  Lowell,  from  whence  a  rail  road 
will  shortly  be  taken  to  Boston.  The  route  is  mostly 
along  the  bank  of  the  Merrimack  river;  which,  owing 
to  its  rapid  descent,  affords  many  important  manufac- 
turing facilities. 

Nashua,  33  miles  from  Concord,  is  the  m-)st  impor- 
tant village  between  that  place  and  Lowell.  It  is  con- 
nected with  the  Merrim;irk  river  bv  means  of  a  canal, 
\\  miles  lonir,  and  conttiins  several  manufactori'  3  and 
about  3000  inhabitants. 

Lowell,  \5  miles  from  Nashua,  is  one  of  the  largest 
manufacturing  towns  in  thn  U.  States.  It  is  located  on 
the  Merrimack  river  and  the  Middlesex  canal  leading 
10  Boston.  The  falls  of  the  river  at  this  place  are  30 
feet,  and  afford  the  most  ample  means  for  extensive  op- 
erations by  water  power.  The  village  and  the  first  fac- 
tory w^ere  commenced  in  1813,  and  the  place  now  as- 
sumes the  character  of  a  large  bustling  town,  laid  into 


M 


3B6 


RONTON  AND  LOWRM.  RAIL  ROAD. 


I;-' 


streets  with  much  taste  and  elegance,  and  the  whole 
appearance  of  the  place  is  rendered  peculiarly  interest- 
ing from  the  magnificent  and  numerous  factories  and 
public  buildings  with  which  it  is  adorned.  Its  popula- 
tion at  the  census  in  1830,  was  C,474. 

The  Boston  and  Lowell  Rail  Road  is  now  in  ac- 
tive progress,  and  will  Hoon  bo  completed,  affording  an 
easy  and  expeditious  route  to  the  metropolis  of  the 
state.  It  commences  at  the  basin  of  the  canal  in  Low- 
ell, and  crosses  the  Charles  river  at  Boston  over  a 
wooden  viaduct,  on  the  west  side  of  Warren  bridge. 
The  length  of  the  road  is  25  miles,  and  the  inclination 
on  no  part  of  the  route  exceeds  10  feet  in  a  mile.  For 
the  present,  there  will  be  but  a  single  track,  with  the 
necessary  number  of  turn-outs  ;  but  provision  is  made 
for  another  track,  if  required.  The  materials  employ- 
ed are  principally  stone  and  iron,  and  the  workmanship 
is  highly  creditable  to  the  company  and  to  the  individ- 
uals engaged  in  the  construction.  The  travel  and 
transportation  on  the  road  must  necessarily  be  great ; 
and  there  can  scarcely  remain  a  doubt  that  it  will 
prove  a  profitable  investment  to  the  stockholders. 

Medford,  4  miles  from  Boston,  is  on  the  Mystic 
river ;  3  miles  from  which  is  the  handsome  village  of 

Charlestown.  {See  p.  376.)  One  mile  farther, 
the  Charlestown  brdge  intervening,  is  the 


whole 
terest- 
;s  and 
opula- 

in  ac-^ 
ing  an 
of  the 
I  Low- 
:)vcr  a 
)ridge. 
nation 
,  For 
th  the 

made 
nploy- 
inship 
idivid- 
l  and 
?reat  j 
will 

lystic 
igeof 

rther, 


M 


Which 
chusetts  I 
two  miles 
broad.     T 
and  religi 
the   perse 
the  rci^na 
Charles  t 
considerci 
1643.     T 
eeqiiencc 
It  was  aft 
Mr.  Cott( 
and  whos 
The  hr 
It  has  a  s 
at  all  lini 
the  year. 
thiH  it  wi 
the  entrc 
ships  abi 
in  which 
ceives  w 
Charles, 
era!  stre 


♦  Bo\ 
en,  No. 
to  stran 


rOSTON. 


3n7 


CITY  OF  BOSTON,* 

Which  \s  pleasantly  situated  at  the  bottom  of  Massa- 
chusetts Bay,  on  a  peninsula  of  an  uneven  surface, 
two  miles  Ions:,  and  in  the  widest  part  about  one  mila 
broad.  The  town  owes  its  ori;n^in  to  a  spirit  of  civil 
and  religious  liberty,  whicli  was  excited  to  action  by 
the  persecutions  that  prevailed  in  Enpland,  during 
the  reicrns  of  dueen  Elizabeth,  and  Kinj^s  James  and 
Charles  the  First.  Most  of  those  who  can  properly  bo 
considered  as  first  settUrs  arrived  prior  to  the  year 
1643.  The  place  was  first  called  Trimountain,  in  con- 
sequence of  three  hills  which  were  on  the  peninsula. 
It  was  afterwards  called  Boston,  in  honor  of  the  Rev. 
Mr.  Cotton,  a  minister  of  the  first  church  in  the  town, 
and  whose  native  place  was  Boston  in  Enc;land. 

The  harbor  is  one  of  the  best  in  the  United  States. 
It  has  a  sufficient  depth  of  water  for  the  lar/rest  /essels 
at  all  times  of  tide,  and  is  accessible  at  all  seasons  of 
the  year.  It  is  safe  from  every  wind,  and  so  capacious 
thnt  it  will  allow  500  vessels  to  ride  at  anchor,  while 
the  entrance  is  so  narrow  as  scarcely  to  admit  two 
ships  abreast.  It  contains  about  75  square  miles,  with- 
in which  are  upwards  of  100  islands  or  rocks  ;  and  re- 
ceives within  its  bosom  the  waters  of  the  Mystic, 
Charles,  Neponset  and  Manatticut  rivers,  besides  sev- 
eral streams  of  less  magnitude. 


*  Bowen's  Picture  of  Boston,  published  by  A.  Bow- 
en,  No.  2,  Confrress  street,  will  prove  a  valuable  guide 
to  strangers  visiting  that  city  and  its  environs. 


mpHMlii 


369 


BOSTON. 


Boston  is  very  extensively  engaged  in  commerce,  and 
there  are  probably  few  cities  in  the  world  where  ther© 
is  so  much  wealth  in  proportion  to  the  population. 
The  trade,  too,  received  from  an  extensive  inland  coun- 
try, is  very  great,  the  facilities  for  approaching  the  city 
being  rendered  easy  by  moans  of  excellent  roads. 

The  appearance  of  Boston  is  much  admired  by  stran- 
gers, particularly  when  approaching  from  the  sea.  Its 
Btreets  do  not  exhibit  so  great  a  regularity  as  some  oth- 
er cities  ;  but  its  beautiful  location  and  elegant  public 
and  private  buildings,  together  with  its  richly  ornamen- 
tal grounds  for  promenadins,  render  it  altogether  a  pe- 
culiarly delightful  and  attractive  place. 

The  city  is  divided  into  four  local  districts,  called 
North  Boston,  West  Boston,  South  End  and  South 
Boston  ;  and  its  population  in  1830  was  61,392.  From 
Copp's  Hill,  in  North  Boston,  which  is  partly  occupied 
for  a  church  yard,  the  British  cannonaded  the  town  of 
Charlcstown  in  1775,  during  the  battle  of  Bunker  Hill, 
when  the  village  was  mljstly  destroyed  by  conflagra- 
tion. 

In  the  south-western  part  of  the  city,  and  in  front  of 
the  state  house,  is  the  celebrated  Common,  present- 
ing an  area  of  about  50  acres,  containing  the  Mall,  a 
very  beautiful  public  walk,  adorned  with  rows  of  trees. 
This  is  a  delightful  promenade  during  the  summer 
months,  and  is  a  place  of  general  resort.  In  the  cen- 
tre of  the  Common  is  an  eminence  still  exhibiting 
marks  of  the  fortification  erected  by  the  British  here 
during  the  revolution  ;  north  of  which  is  the  Crescent 
Pond,  a  beautiful  sheet  of  water,  surrounded  with  trees. 
Near  the  Mall,  in  Mason  street,  is  the  Medical  college, 


an 
mc 

Pel 
apj 
to 
nei 

ry\ 

A.| 

di 


BOSTO!*. 


3Sf 


hand 

mere 

[tion. 

|oun- 

city 

Iran- 
Its 
|oth- 
iblic 
len- 
pe- 


an  edifice  belonginji:  to  the  Harvard  University,  sur- 
mounted by  a  dome  with  a  sky-liglit  and  balustrade. 

The  Boston  Mhcneum  is  located  near  the  head  of 
Pearl  street,  and  is  a  very  spaeious  buildinff,  containing 
appropriate  rooms.  The  number  of  volumes  attached 
to  the  institution  is  about  30,000.  It  also  contains 
nearly  14,000  medals  and  coins,  some  of  which  are  ve- 
ry rare  and  intcrestinif.  The  rooms  arc  open  from  8 
A.  M.  to  9  P.  M.  and  can  be  visited  by  strangers  intro- 
duced by  subscribers. 

The  Gallery  of  Fine  *8.rts  is  a  handsome  structure  in 
the  rear  of  the  Atheneum,  and  is  appropriated  for  sci- 
entific lectures,  the  Academy  of  Arts  and  Sciences,  the 
Massachusetts  Medical  Library,  a  philosophical  appa- 
ratus of  the  Mechanic  Institution,  and  for  paintings ; 
the  latter  of  w  hich  arc  exhibited  in  the  upper  story, 
and  are  generally  very  elegant. 

Among  the  otlier  literary  institutions  in  the  city  are 
the  Massachusetts  Hlslorical  Socictij,  who  have  an  ex- 
tensive library  in  a  spacious  apartment  over  tlie  arch  in 
Franklin  street ;  the  Boston  Library  Society,  who  havo 
a  collection  of  7000  volumes  ;  and  the  Columbian  Li- 
brary, which  contains  about  4500  volumes.  There  are 
also  numerous  other  libraries  of  less  note.  Amonjj  the 
benevolent  institutions,  are  the  House  of  Industry  at 
South  Boston,  of  roUiih  dimension  stone,  2-20  feet  lonji, 
and  43  wide  ;  the  Massachusetts  General  Hospital, 
founded  in  1818,  wiiich  has  been  richly  endowed  by  the 
state  and  individuals ;  and  a  Hospital  for  the  Insane, 
the  buildings  of  which  are  at  Charlestown. 

The  first  houses  built  in  the  city  were  plain  and  the 
Btreets  narrow  and  crooked  ;    but  a  few  years  have 


370 


BOSTON. 


... 


wrought  a  striking  and  almost  incredible  change  ;  new 
streets  have  been  laid  out,  old  oneg  straightened  and 
imj^roved,  and  neat  brick  and  granite  dwellings  have 
been  substituted  for  the  ill-shapen  and  decaying  houses 
of  wood.  The  private  buildings,  and  many  of  the 
stores  recently  erected,  are  more  splendid  than  in  any 
other  city  in  the  United  States.  In  1«S17,  there  was 
erected  on  each  side  of  Market  street,  a  block  of  brick 
stores  more  than  400  lect  in  length,  and  4  stories  high ; 
and  on  Central  Wharf  another  immense  pile  of  build- 
ings was  completed  the  same  year,  1210  feet  long,  con- 
taining 54  stores  4  stories  liigh,  having  a  spacious  hall 
in  the  centre,  over  which  is  erected  an  elegant  obser- 
vatory. Other  costly  works  have  been  constructed 
which  do  honor  to  the  town  ;  but  the  project  which 
exceeded  them  all  in  boldness  of  design,  in  promise  of 
public  benefit,  and  in  energy  of  execution,  is  that 
which  within  five  or  six  years  has  been  accomplish- 
ed in  the  vicinity  of  Fanueil  Hall  Market.  The  exten- 
sive rows  of  granite  stores,  four  stories  high,  construct- 
ed after  the  best  model,  bound  this  newly  perfected  en- 
terprise. Between  these  two  ranges  of  stores,  stands 
the  new  Market  House,  at  the  distance  of  102  feet  from 
those  on  the  south  side,  and  G5  feet  from  the  north. 
The  centre  part  of  the  building  is  74  by  5  j  feet,  having 
a  hall  in  the  second  story.  Tho  wmgs  arc  each  231 
feet  long  by  50  wide,  and  two  stories  high.  They  have 
each  a  portico  of  four  columns,  23  feet  high  ;  the  shafts 
of  granite,  in  a  single  piece.  The  construction  of  the 
whole  is  of  hammered  granite  of  a  uniform  color. 

Among  the  public  buildings  are  the  State  House, 
which  is  built  on  elevated  ground,  commanding  a  fine 


vie^ 

eleg| 

newj 

ofS 

Jail 


nosTOM. 


371 


Tiew  of  the  BurronncVmg  country,  and  containing  an 
elegant  statue  of  Washington,  which  cost  S1;'»,000;  the 
now  county  Court  ITous'',  built  of  stone  at  an  cxponsy 
of  802,000  ;  tho  nuinicipal  Court  Tfouso  ;  a  now  ptonc 
Jail  ;  Fanuril  Rail,  where  all  puhiic  !noptiuL^='  of  tho 
citizens  aro  held  ;  two  Thoatres,  one  of  which  (tho  Tr*'- 
niont)  was  erected  in  1827,  at  a  cost  of  about  $120,000, 
beinjDf  13")  foot  in  length  ai)d  about  80  in  breadth,  tho 
front  of  Hallow ..'11  and  duincy  /granite,  in  imitation  of 
the  Ionic  ordi^r,  with  four  pilaatrcs  supporting  an  entab- 
lature and  pediment,  and  elevated  on  a  basement  of  17 
feet  ;  the  Cuslom  House,  City  Hall,  Merchant's  liall, 
Masonic  Temnle,  IJovlston  Market  and  BoyistonHall : 
U.  S.  Branch  B  uik  ;  Concert,  Juhan,  Corinthian,  Pan- 
theon, AVashington  and  Chamicy  Halls. 

Bn'l^cs. — I'hero  are  seven  bridges  connecting  Bos- 
ton with  tho  adjaeent  town?.  Charles  Riv^r  bridge, 
which  connects  it  with  Charlestown  on  tho  north,  1503 
feet  long  ;  "\\^arren  bridge,  nearly  pandlel  with  tho 
former,  and  also  running  to  Charlestown,  1120  feet 
long,  on  piers  and  Alacadmized,  at  tho  end  of  which  the 
Lowell  rail  road  terminates  ;  Yv'est  Boston  bridge,  con- 
necting it  with  Cambridge  Port  on  tho  west,  7810  feet 
long  ;  Cragie's  or  Canal  bridge,  between  tho  last  two, 
connecting  it  with  Lechmerc  Point,  27GG  feet  long ;  and 
two  bridges  uniting  it  to  South  Boston.  The  other  ave- 
nue is  a  mill  dam,  nearly  two  miles  long  and  fifty  feet 
wide,  across  tlio  bay  on  the  southwest  side  of  tho  city; 
which  not  only  furnishes  a  bridge,  but  puts  in  operation 
extensive  tide-mills  and  other  water  works.  This  dam 
was  built  in  1823-4,  and  cost  upwards  of  {!{600,000. 
There  is  a  branch  from  Cragie's  bridge  also,  which  runs 

GC9 


372 


BOSTON. 


to  Charleatown  Point,  near  the  Massachusetts  state 
prison. 

Churches. — There  are  nearly  50  churches  in  Boston, 
many  of  which  have  been  built  at  great  expense,  and 
are  very  elegant.  On  one  of  the  quoins  at  the  south- 
west corner  of  the  Brattle  street  church,  of  which  Gov, 
Hancock  was  a  benefactor,  his  name  had  been  inscrib- 
ed ;  but  it  was  efTaced  by  the  British  soldiery  during 
the  revolution,  and  the  stone  has  been  permitted  to  re- 
main as  they  left  it.  A  shot  from  the  Americans  on 
the  night  previous  to  the  evacuation  of  Boston  by  the 
British  still  remains  in  the  tower  where  it  originally 
struck.  In  St.  Paul's  church,  in  Common  street,  there 
is  an  elegant  monument  to  the  memory  of  Gen.  War- 
ren, who  was  slain  on  Bunker  Hill,  and  whose  remains 
are  entombed  in  the  cemetery  beneath  this  church. 

Burial  Gruunds. — In  the  Chapel  burial  ground,  north 
cf  the  stone  chapel,  there  are  several  ancient  monu- 
ments ;  and  among  others  that  of  Gov.  Winthrop,  who 
died  in  1G49.  In  the  Copp^s  Hill  ground  similar  me- 
mentoes of  antiquity  are  found.  In  the  Granary  ground, 
the  cenotaph  erected  to  the  memory  of  Doct.  Franklin 
Btands  over  the  tomb,  in  which  repose  the  remains  of 
both  his  parents.  The  tombs  of  Governors  Bellingham, 
Sumner  and  Sullivan  arc  also  in  this  ground. 

The  J^eio-England  Museum,  in  Court  street,  is  prob- 
ably the  best  in  the  United  States,  and  should  be  visit- 
ed by  every  stranger  before  leaving  the  city. 

Hotels. — Tremont  House  is  the  most  superb  hotel  in 
Boston,  and  not  inferior  to  any  in  the  Union.  It  is 
three  stories  high  in  front  and  four  on  the  wings,  ex- 
clusive of  the  basement.     The  front  and  two  circular 


BOSTON. 


373 


stato 


5  crib- 


ends  facing  Beacon  street,  and  the  open  ground  south 
of  the  building,  are  of  Ctuincy  granite,  and  surmounted 
by  an  entablature,  supported  by  antes  at  each  extrem- 
ity. The  portico,  which  is  of  the  same  material,  is  37 
feet  long  by  7  feet  in  width,  and  25  feet  high.  Four 
fluted  columns  support  the  roof  of  the  portico,  the  pro- 
portions of  which  arc  copied  from  those  of  the  Doric 
portico  at  vVthens,  with  tlic  exception  that  the  portico 
of  the  Tremont  House  is  di-trii^lypli,  the  inter  column- 
iations  being  nearly  equal.  The  whole  number  of 
rooms  is  one  hundred  and  eighty  ;  and  the  principal 
entrance  is  nearly  opposite  the  Tremont  theatre.  From 
the  lookout  above  the  roof  of  this  structure,  an  exten- 
sive and  beautiful  landscape,  comprising  a  view  of  the 
harbor  and  the  amphitheatre  of  hills  to  the  west,  and  of 
the  towns  of  Charlcstown  and  Chelsea  to  the  north, 
presents  itself. 

The  other  principal  public  houses  are  the  Exchange 
Coffee  House,  an  excellent  establishment,  New-Eng- 
land Coffee  House,  Franklin  Ilou.-3o,  Fulton  House, 
Marlboro'  Hotel,  Commercial  Coffee  House,  City 
Tavern,  Washington  CoflTee  ilousc,  Bromfield  House^ 
Merchants'  Hotel  and  La  Fayette  Hotel. 

The  Hancock  House,  the  fornrcr  residence  of  Gov. 
Hancock,  is  still  in  good  preservation  in  Beacon  street, 
near  the  state  house.  There  are  also  several  ancient 
buildings  in  the  vicinity  of  Ann  street  and  Market 
sq>\arc  ;  in  one  of  which,  opposite  the  Golden  Key,  a 
relative  of  Doct.  Franklin  formerly  resided,  to  whom 
he  was  in  the  habit  of  paying  frequent  visits. 

The  number  of  stags  coaches  which  regularly  leave 
Boston,  is  much  larger  than  that  of  any  other  plac«  in 


\i'': 


A, 

I; 


./"^i 
:-,% 


S74 


MOT^tCT  AlJBtTnJC. 


'.I 


the  Union.  There  arc  botween  eight  nnd  ninety  dis- 
tinct lines  of  stages  ;  which,  according  to  their  estab- 
lished ariann^ements,  not  inchiding  extras,  make  about 
125  departures  and  as  many  arrivals  daily,  or  more 
than  1500  departures  and  arrivals  each  week.  For  the 
benefit  of  public  houses  and  travellers,  a  Stage  Register 
is  published,  once  in  two  months,  by  Messrs.  Badger 
and  Porter,  G3  Court  street,  containin<T  an  account  of 
tho  principal  lines  of  stafres,  steam  boats  and  canal 
packets  in  Nevv-En<^land  and  New- York. 

The  country  around  Boston  is  the  admiration  of  ev- 
ery traveller  of  taste.  The  view  from  tlie  dome  of  tho 
state  house  surpasses  any  thing;'  of  the  kind  in  this 
country,  and  is  not  excelled  by  that  from  the  castle  hill 
of  Edinburgh,  or  that  of  tho  Bay  of  Naples  from  tho 
castle  of  St.  Elmo.  Hero  may  bo  seen  ot  one  view, 
the  shipping,  the  harbor,  variegated  with  islands  and 
alive  with  business  ;  Charles  river  and  its  beautiful 
country,  ornamented  with  elegant  private  mansions  ; 
and  more  than  twenty  flourishing  towns.  The  hills 
are  finely  cultivated,  and  rounded  by  the  hand  of  na- 
ture with  singular  felicity. 

Mount  Aubdkn.  Every  traveller  of  taste  should 
visit  the  new  cemctry  at  Mount  Auburn,  in  Cambridge, 
5  miles  from  Boston.  It  is  the  pere  la  chaise  of  this 
country,  and  is  situated  in  one  of  the  most  delightful 
spots  ever  selected  for  the  repose  of  the  dead.  Tho 
grounds  are  very  extensive,  comprising  every  variety  of 
hill  and  dale,  covered  with  trees  and  shrubbery  of  al- 
most every  kind.  There  are  numerous  "  avenues"  for 
carriages,  and  "  paths"  for  pedestrians,  designated  by 
botanical   ntimes.    The  interments  as  yet  have  been 


very  fe>l 
ihcm  fij 
the  Jcv\| 
died  ill 
mantic- 
formed ' 

tion. 
mansiol 
of  the 
repose 
which 
erectcc 
with  a 
The 
of  inex 
of  wh 
beds  t 
the  dis 
inch  1 
horse 
ject  v; 
Do 
south 
PlyiT 
crool 
Man 
are  t 
hous 
metl 
nins 
bor, 


QTINCY DOUCHKSTF.R. 


375 


very  few  ;  though  the  lots  are  oil  laid  out,  end  many  of 
them  finished.  Miss  Hannah  Adams,  the  historian  of 
llic  Jews,  was  the  first  tenant  of  Mount  Auburn.  She 
died  in  December,  1831.  Nature  made  this  retreat  ro- 
mantic— art  lias  rendered  it  beautiful — the  Creator 
formed  it  lovely — man  has  mad(3  it  sacred ! 

Q.UINCY  is  10  miles  from  Boston,  in  a  southerly  direc- 
tion. About  half  a  'nilc  northwest  of  the  village  is  tho 
mansion  of  the  late  John  Adtims,  the  second  president 
of  the  U.  States.  His  remains  and  those  of  his  wife 
repose  beneath  the  new  chureh  at  Gluincy,  within 
which  a  handsome  monument  to  their  memory  has  been 
erected  by  the  late  President,  John  Q,uincy  Adama, 
with  a  suitable  inscription. 

The  southwest  part  of  the  town  is  mostly  composed 
of  inexhaustable  beds  of  granite,  for  the  transportation 
of  which  a  rail-way  has  been  constructed  from  the 
beds  to  tide  water,  3  miles  long.  I'or  a  great  part  of 
the  distance  it  is  on  an  inclination  of  one  and  a  half 
inch  to  the  rod,  and  the  ordinary  load  drawn  by  a 
horse  is  between  8  and  9  tons.  It  will  be  found  an  ob- 
ject worthy  the  attention  of  strangers. 

Dorchester,  is  an  ancient  town,  about  4^  miles 
south  of  Boston,  having  been  settled  in  1630,  soon  after 
Plymouth  and  Salem.  The  roads  are  numerous  and 
crooked,  but  mostly  level  and  kept  in  good  repair. 
Many  fine  country  seats  and  substantial  farm  houses 
are  thickly  arranged  on  their  sides.  They  have  a  town 
house,  three  congregational  churches,  and  one  for 
methodists.  The  population  is  about  4000.  The  pe- 
ninsula, called  Dorchester  Neck,  borders  on  Boston  har- 
bor, and  a  part  of  it  is  incorporated  with  the  town  of 


i  I 


376 


CnARLESTOWW. 


Boston.  Savin  Hill,^  in  tliis  town,  is  a  place  of  consid- 
erable resort,  and  the  peninsula  or;Squantum  is  famoui 
for  its  yearly  feast  of  '  3.  On  the  4lh  of  March, 
177G,  1200  men  sent  l^  Uen.  Washington,  threw  up 
works'on  Dorchester  Heights  in  the  night,  which  com- 
manded Boston  harbor  and  drove  the  British  army 
away.     Traces  of  those  works  still  remain. 

Brighton,  5  miles  west  of  Boston,  was  formerly  a 
part  of  Cambridge,  and  lies  between  that  place  and 
Brookline.  Here  is  held  the  famous  Cattle  Fair,  which 
was  commenced  during  the  revolutionary  war,  and  has 
been  increasing  in  importance  ever  since.  Most  of  the 
cattle  for  the  supply  of  the  Boston  market  are  brought 
in  droves  to  this  place  ;  often  from  2  to  3000  a  week  ; 
every  Monday  is  the  fair  day,  when  the  dealers  resort 
thither  to  make  their  purchases. 

Watertwon  is  on  Charles  river,  7  miles  northwest 
from  Boston,  and  is  the  seat  of  several  extensive  man- 
ufacturing estabhshments.  The  provincial  congress 
sat  here  in  1775,  and  were  in  session  during  the  battle 
of  Bunker  Hill.  The  United  States  have  an  Arsenal 
established  in  this  town.  Fresh  Pond,  one  of  the 
most  enchanting  retreats  in  the  vicinity  of  the  me- 
tropolis, lies  partly  in  this  town  and  partly  in  Cam- 
bridge. 

Cambridge,  2  miles  west  of  Boston.     (See  p.  349.) 

Charlestown,  is  a  place  of  singular  shape,  extend- 
ing in  A  northwesterly  direction  from  Boston  harbor, 
about  9  miles  in  length,  and  not  averaging  a  breadth  of 
one  mile,  and  in  some  parts  it  is  not  a  quarter  of  a  mile 
widd.     The  compact  part  of  the  town  is  situated  on  a 


pcnms» 

Btreets. 

9000. 

a  ppacil 

BcsideJ 

conncc| 

on  the 

Mystic 

lie  witll 

the  latl 

consisj 

large  I 

variou 

house 

this  y> 
Unite 

ofdolj 

town 

Exter 

on  tlv 

Mass 

upon 

Tl 

abov: 

mos 

The 

eml: 

nee 

the 

wb 

thi 

th< 

on 


CRSULiNB  CONVENT. 


377 


|consid- 
Jftimoui 
pjarch, 

few  up 
|h  com- 


peninsula  next  to  Boston  and  is  laid  out  in  regular 
streets.  Charlestown  contains  a  population  of  near 
9000.  It  has  five  houses  of  public  worship,  three  banks, 
a  ppacious  alms  house,  and  a  handsome  market  house. 
Besides  Charles  River  and  Prison  Point  bridges  which 
connect  this  town  with  Boston,  there  is  Chelsea  bridge 
on  the  Salem  turnpike,  and  Maiden  bridge,  both  over  the 
Mystick  river.  Breed's  Hill  and  Bunker's  Hill  both 
lie  within  this  peninsula;  the  former  is  62  feet  in  height, 
the  latter  1 10  feet.  The  U.  S.  Navy  Yard,  in  this  town, 
consists  of  about  60  acres  of  land,  on  which  arc  built  a 
large  brick  ware  house,  several  arsenals,  magazines  for 
various  kinds  of  stores,  and  a  large  brick  mansion 
house  for  the  superintending  officer.  The  Dry  Dock  in 
this  yard  is  but  just  completed,  and  is  the  finest  in  the 
United  States.  Its  cost  has  been  about  half  a  million 
of  dollars.  The  State  Prison  is  at  the  west  end  of  the 
town  and  is  built  of  granite,  200  feet  by  44,  of  5  stories. 
Extensive  additions  to  the  buildings  were  made  in  1827, 
on  the  Auburn  plan,  at  an  expense  of  $86,000.  The 
Massachusetts  Insane  Hospital  is  delightfully  situated 
upon  Pleasant  Hill,  on  the  vvc^t  side  of  the  town. 

The  XJrsuline  Coy  vent,  rs  on  Mount  Benedict, 
about  2i  miles  from  Boston,  commanding  one  of  the 
most  rich  and  variegated  prospects  in  the  United  States. 
The  plan  of  education  pursued  here  is  very  extensive, 
embracing  all  those  attainments  which  are  considered 
necessary,  useful  or  ornamental  in  society.  Adjoining 
the  establishment,  is  a  garden  beautifully  laid  out,  to 
which  the  young  ladies  always  have  access.  Besides 
this  they  are  allowed,  on  days  of  recreation,  to  extend 
their  walks  over  the  whole  farm,  attended  however  by 
one  or  more  of  their  instructors. 


■i-i^fv'.'.^ip 


its. :,  ■ 


373 


unr.nn'*  hill. 


BnECD's  Hill  is  situated  ono  fourth  of  a  mile  north- 
east of  Charlosto  vn,  and  affords  a  pleasant  prospect  of 
Boston,  (3  miles  distant,)  the  harbor,  Cambridge  and 
its  colleges,  and  of  an  extensive  tract  of  highly  cultiva- 
ted country. 

In  the  month  of  May,  after  the  battle  of  Lexington, 
it  was  conjectured  from  the  mov omenta  of  the  British 
army  that  Gen.  Gage  intended  to  penetrate  into  the 
country.  It  was  accordingly  decided  by  the  provincial 
congress  to  attempt  a  defence  of  Dorchester  Neck,  and 
to  occupy  Bunker's  Hill,  just  within  the  Peninsula  on 
which  Charlestown  stands.  A  detachment  of  1000 
men,  under  Col.  Prescot,  proceeded  to  execute  these 
orders,  but  by  some  mistake,  Breed's  Hill,  situated  on 
the  farther  part  of  the  peninsula,  was  selectee'  for  the 
proposed  entrenchments. 

The  party  under  Colonel  Prescot  proceeded  in  their 
work  A'ith  so  much  diligence  and  secrecy,  that  by  the 
dawn  of  day,  they  had  thrown  up  a  square  redoubt  of 
about  forty  yards  on  each  side.  Day-light  discovered 
this  new  work  to  the  British,  and  a  heavy  cannonade 
was  commenced  upon  it  from  the  shipping  in  the  river. 
The  fire  was  borne  with  firmness  by  the  Americans, 
and  did  not  prevent  them  from  soon  constructing  a 
breast  work,  which  extended  from  the  redoubt  to  the 
bottom  of  the  hill. 

"  As  this  eminence  overlooked  Boston,  Gen.  Gage 
thought  it  necessary  to  drive  the  provincials  from  it. 
To  effect  this  object,  he  detached  Major  Gen.  Howe, 
and  Brigadier  Gen.  Pigot,  at  the  head  of  ten  compa- 
nies of  grenadiers,  and  the  same  number  of  light  in- 
fantry, with  a  proper  proportion    of  field    artillery. 


emy. 
«( 

Brili 

elow 

and 

artill 

advJ 

aha 

flan 

lye 

BO  ( 

grc 

aw 
of 
pr- 
b€ 


brrbd's  hill. 


879 


north- 
?pcct  of 
^e  and 
:ultiva- 

ington, 
British 
•to  the 
vincial 
K  and 
ula  on 
1000 
these 
ted  on 
>r  the 

their 
>y  the 
ubt  of 
vercd 
)nade 
river, 
cans, 
ng  a 
>  the 

Uge 
n  it. 
>we, 
ipa- 
in- 
sry. 


These  troops  landed  at  Morcton's  Point,  where  they 
immediately  formed  ;  but  perceiving  the  Americana  to 
wait  for  them  with  firmne?s,  they  remained  on  their 
ground  until  the  success  of  the  enterprizo  should  bo 
rendered  secure  by  the  arrival  of  a  reinforcement  from 
Boston,  for  which  General  Howe  had  applied.  During 
this  interval  the  Americans  also  were  reinforced  by  a 
body  of  their  countrymen  led  by  Generals  Warren 
and  Pomcroy  ;  and  they  availed  themselves  of  this 
delay,  to  increase  their  security  by  pulling  up  some  ad- 
joining post  and  rail  fences,  and  arranging  them  in 
two  parallel  lines  at  a  small  distance  from  each  other  ; 
the  space  between  which  they  filled  up  w">th  hay,  so  as 
to  form  a  complete  cover  from  the  musketry  of  the  en- 
emy. 

"  On  being  joined  by  their  second  detachment,  the 
British  troops,  who  were  formed  in  two  lines,  advanced 
slowly  under  cover  of  a  very  heavy  discharge  of  cannon 
and  howitzers,  frequently  halting  in  order  to  allow  their 
artillery  time  to  demolish  the  works.  While  they  were 
advancing,  orders  were  given  to  set  fire  to  Charlestown, 
a  handsome  village  containing  about  500  houses,  which 
flanked  their  line  of  march.  The  buildings  were  chief- 
ly of  wood,  and  the  flames  were  quickly  communicated 
BO  extensively,  that  almost  the  whole  town  was  in  one 
great  blaze. 

"  It  is  not  easy  to  conceive  a  more  grand  and  a  more 
awful  spectacle  than  was  now  exhibited ;  nor  a  moment 
of  more  anxious  expectation  than  thr*  which  was  now 
presented.  The  scene  of  action  was  in  full  view  of  the 
heights  of  Boston  and  of  its  neighborhood,  which  were 
covered  with  spectators  taking  deep  and  opposite*  int<*r- 

HR 


'>*  I 


E*' 


r: 


If 

i, 

1^ 


I 


380 


breed's  Hi!  L. 


ests  in  the  evrnts  popsin?  before  tliein.  The  soldiers 
of  the  two  hostile  armies  not  on  duty,  the  citizens  of 
Boston,  and  the  inhabitants  of  the  adjacent  country, 
all  feeling  emotions  which  set  description  at  defiance, 
were  witnesses  of  the  majestic  and  tremendous  scene. 

"  The  provincials  permitted  the  enemy  to  approach 
unmolested  within  less  than  one  hundred  vards  of  their 
works,  when  they  poured  in  upon  them  so  deadly  a  fire 
of  small  arms  that  the  British  line  was  totally  broken, 
and  fell  back  with  precipitation  towards  the  landing 
place.  By  the  very  great  exertions  of  their  officers 
they  were  rallied,  and  brought  up  to  the  charge,  but 
were  again  driven  back  in  confusion  by  the  heavy  and 
incessant  fire  from  the  works.  General  Howe  is  said 
to  have  been  left  at  one  time  almost  alone,  and  it  is 
certain  that  very  few  officers  about  his  person  escaped 
unhurt. 

"  The  impression  to  be  made  by  victory  or  defeat,  in 
this  early  stage  of  the  war,  was  deemed  of  the  utmost 
consequence ;  and  therefore  very  extraordinary  ex- 
ertions were  made  once  more  to  rally  the  English. 
With  great  difficulty,  they  were  a  third  time  led  up  to 
the  works.  The  redoubt  was  now  attacked  on  three 
sides  at  once,  while  some  pieces  of  artillery,  which  had 
been  brought  to  bear  on  the  breast  work,  raked  it  from 
end  to  end.  The  cross  fire  too,  from  the  ships  and 
floating  batteries,  not  only  annoyed  the  works  on 
Breed's  hill,  but  deterred  any  considerable  reinforce- 
ments from  passing  into  the  peninsula,  and  coming  to 
their  assistance.  The  ammunition  of  the  Americans 
was  now  so  nearly  exhausted,  that  they  were  no  longer 
able  to  keep  up  tKc  same  incessant  stream  of  fire,  which 


had  t 
tempt 
moun 
bayoi 
witho 
t«st  V 
filled 


BUNREk   HILL  MONUMENT. 


381 


had  twice  repulaed  the  enemy ;  and  on  this  third  at- 
tempt, the  redoubt,  the  walls  of  which  the  English 
mounted  with  ease,  was  carried  at  the  point  of  the 
bayonet.  Yet  the  Americans,  many  of  whom  were 
without  bayonets,  are  said  to  have  maintained  the  con- 
t«st  with  clubbed  muskets,  until  the  redoubt  was  half 
filled  with  the  king's  troops. 

"  The  redoubt  being  lost,  the  breast  work  which  had 
been  defended  with  equal  courage  and  obstinacy,  was 
necessarily  abandoned ;  and  the  very  hazardous  ope- 
ration undertaken,  of  retreating,  in  the  face  of  a  victo- 
rious enemy,  over  Charlestown  neck  ;  where  they  were 
exposed  to  the  same  cross  fire  from  the  Glasgow  man 
of  war  and  two  floating  batteries,  which  had  deterred 
the  reinforcements  ordered  to  their  aid  from  coming  to 
their  assistance,  and  had  probably  prevented  their  re- 
ceiving proper  supplies  of  ammunition." 

The  number  of  British  troops  engaged  in  this  action 
was  about  3000,  and  their  loss  in  killed  and  wounded 
was  1050.  The  American  force  has  been  variously 
stated  from  1 500  to  4000 ;  and  their  loss,  in  killed, 
wounded  and  missing,  amounted  to  450.  General 
Warren  was  among  the  number  of  the  slain,  and  a 
handsome  monument  now  marks  the  spot  where  befell. 
The  spot  of  ground  on  which  this  monument  stands, 
was  recently  purchased  by  Dr.  J.  C.  Warren,  of  Bos- 
ton, a  nephew  of  the  lamented  General,  for  the  pur- 
pose, it  is  said,  of  preserving  uninjured  the  few  remain- 
ing traces  of  the  memorable  battle  of  *75. 

The  corner  stone  of  the  Bunker  Hill  Monument 
now  erecting  on  Breed's  Hill,  was  laid  on  the  1 5th  of 
June,  1825:  on  which  occasion  the  Marquis  La  Fay- 


\y 


•'"  Y^'i^tiitmss^mmmsme* 


fmmma 


SS3 


K  An  ANT. 


w  ! 
it  i 


"V 


r|1- 


tfttte  was  present.  The  depth,  however,  proving  insuf- 
ficient, the  foundation  was  subsequently  re-laid  ;  and 
the  work  has  since  progrest^od  slowly.  The  Gluincy 
granite  is  used  for  its  structure.  Its  base  is  50  feet  in 
diameter,  and  it»  height  is  to  bo  220  feet. 

Fort  Independence,  is  situated  on  an  island  at  the 
outlet  of  Boston  harbor,  3  miles  distant ;  opposite  to 
which  is  Governor's  Island,  containing  a  fort  erected 
during  the  late  war.  These  two  forts  command  tho 
entrance  into  the  harbor  of  Boston.  Seven  or  eight 
miles  below  is  the  light  house,  at  the  north-east  extrem- 
ity of  the  channel,  where  vessels  enter  the  Atlantic. 

NAHANT, 

Is  a  peninsula  running  three  or  four  miles  into  the 
sea,  and  is  situated  fifteen  miles  north-easterly  from 
Boston.  It  is  approached  from  the  town  of  Lynn  over 
a  beautiful  beach  of  a  mile  and  a  half  in  length.  At 
the  extremity  of  this  beach  commences  the  peninsula, 
which  is  about  two  miles  in  length,  and  in  some  parts 
half  a  mile  broad,  although  its  shores  arc  extremely  ir- 
regular, and  indented  with  small  bays  worn  into  the 
rocks  by  the  unceasing  action  of  the  waves. 

The  surface  is  uneven,  rising  in  some  places  tc  the 
elevation  of  sixty  or  seventy  feet  above  the  level  of 
the  sea.  The  shore  is  very  bold,  and  presents  on  all 
sides,  a  grand  embankment  of  broken  massy  rocks. 
At  several  points  these  rocks  arc  worn  into  fantastic 
shapes,  and  at  the  time  of  high  tide,  or  a  swell  of  the 
sea,  the  roar  and  foam  of  the  waters  among  them,  pre- 
sents a  most  interesting  spectacle,  which  is  contem- 
plated by  the  quiet  observer,  seated  on  the  summit 


er. 


NAHANT. 


383 


eight 


above,  with  awe  and  admiration.  The  whole  expanse 
of  the  ocean  spreads  out  towards  the  east,  and  after  a 
storm,  the  rolHng  waves  come  pouring  in  their  im- 
mense burden  upon  these  rocks,  with  such  a  power, 
sublimity  and  uproar  of  contending  elements,  as  can 
hardly  be  conceived  by  any  one  who  has  not  witnessed 
the  scene.  And  again  when  the  sea  is  tranquil,  it  may 
be  seen  covered  with  shipping  of  all  sizes,  as  far  as  the 
eye  can  extend,  moving  in  different  directions  up  and 
dow^n  the  coast,  and  exhibiting  an  animating  picture  of 
the  industry  and  activity  of  commerce.  In  short,  for 
picturesque  beauty  and  sublimity  of  scenery,  as  well  as 
for  the  many  advantages  arising  from  its  peculiar  local 
situation,  this  place  is  not  surpassed  by  any  on  the 
coast. 

Besides  a  view  of  the  ocean,  Nahant  presents  a  great 
variety  of  other  interesting  prospects.  On  one  side 
is  seen  the  village  of  Lynn,  Swanscut,  Phillips'  Beach, 
Marblehead,  Egg  Rock,  Baker's  Island,  and  the  north 
shore  as  far  as  the  highland  of  Cape  Ann ;  on  the  oth- 
er, Charlestown,  Boston,  the  islands  in  Boston  harbor, 
part  of  Dorchester,  Braintrec,  Nantucket  and  Scituate, 
with  the  light  houses  of  Boston,  Scituate  and  Baker's 
Island,  forming  together  a  panorama  hardly  to  be  equal 
led  in  beauty  or  variety. 

The  peninsula  extends  farther  into  the  sea  than  any 
other  head  land  in  the  ]>ay.  It  is  distant  from  tht 
nearest  island  in  Boston  harbor,  to  the  south,  seven . 
miles — from  the  nearest  point  of  the  south  shore,  aboui 
twelve  miles — from  the  north  shore  between  two  and 
three  miles.  It  is  on  this  side  connected  with  the  main 
land  by  a  beach    a  few  rods  wide.     Thus  insulatt 

hh2 


M 


I 


984 


KAHANT. 


and  surrounded  by  water,  Nahant  enjoys  a  climate  and 
temperature  very  cool,  and,  comparatively,  very  equa- 
ble— a  circumstance  of  much  importance  to  the  invalid, 
ttnd  which  will  determine  the  choice  of  a  great  portion 
of  those  v/ho  annually  leave  the  city. for  the  purpose  of 
health  or  amusement. 

Accommodations  for  visitors  have  lately  been  multi- 
plied and  greatly  improved.  A  spacious  and  elegant 
Etone  edifice  has  been  erected  as  a  Hotel,  near  the  ex- 
tremity of  the  peninsula,  in  a  very  commanding  and 
pleasant  situation.  This  buildii\g  contains  70  cham- 
bers, constructed  on  a  plan  of  peculiar  convenience, 
both  for  families  and  single  persons.  The  dining  hall 
is  sufficiently  spacious  to  accommodate  150  persons  at 
table,  besides  which  there  are  drawing  rooms  and  pri- 
vate parlors.  Large  and  commodious  stables  are  ap- 
pended to  the  Hotel ;  and  a  bathing  house  for  warm 
and  cold  baths,  and  floating  baths  for  those  who  may 
prefer  the  bracing  action  of  sea  water,  make  a  part  of 
the  establishment.  The  Hotel  is  surrounded  by  piaz- 
zas, which  afford  a  most  delightful  prospect  in  every 
direction,  and  receive  the  cool  and  refreshing  breezes 
every  part  of  the  day.  In  a  small  village,  a  quarter  of 
a  mile  from  the  Hotel,  are  several  private  boarding  hous- 
es, where  every  accommodation  can  be  had  for  invalids 
and  for  those  who  seek  retirement.  Numerous  cot- 
tages, too,  have  been  erected  by  several  individuals  for 
the  purpose  of  affording  more  extensive  and  elegant 
laccommodations  to  those  who  may  pass  the  summer  in 
this  delightful  place  of  residence. 

Nahant  has  many  amusements.  Angling  with  the 
rod  may  be  enjoyed  aa  a  pleasant  recreation,  standing 


:\ 


rOBT8  AROUND  BOSTON. 


ZSi 


multi- 
legant 


on  the  rocks ;  and  those  who  would  try  their  skill  in 
decoying  larger  prey,  may  go  out  in  boats,  ^vhich  ar« 
always  in  readiness,  and  furnished  with  suitable  appa- 
ratus. GamCj  too,  is  abundant  in  the  vicinity.  Bui 
there  are  few  amusements  or  pleasures  superior  to  that 
of  riding,  at  suitable  hours  of  the  day,  on  the  beach. 

A  beautiful  building,  in  imitation  of  a  Grecian  tem- 
ple, has  been  erected  on  an  eminence,  near  the  Hotel, 
in  which  are  two  elegant  billiard  rooms.  There  are  al- 
so convenient  covered  bowling  alleys,  and  such  other 
means  of  amusement  as  are  usually  connected  with  tho 
most  extensive  and  elegant  establishments  at  watering 
places. 

On  the  whole,  the  proximity  of  Nahant  to  Boston — 
its  facihty  of  access — the  beauty  and  grandeur  of  its 
scenery — and  above  all,  the  singular  local  advantages 
it  affords  for  invigorating  the  constitution,  the  salubrity 
and  bracing  tone  of  its  atmosphere,  and  the  excellent 
accommodations  it  offers  to  visitors — will  undoubtedly 
make  it  a  place  of  general  resort  during  the  summer 
months,  from  all  parts  of  the  United  States. 

FORTS  AROUND  BOSTON, 

Erected  during  the  revolutio7i. 
The  fortifications  which  were  thrown  up  around  Bos- 
ton, which  held  a  British  army  besieged  during  eleven 
months  of  the  revolution,  and  which  finally  compelled 
them  to  carry  their  arms  and  warfare  into  other  lands, 
will  always  be  regarded  as  objects  of  interest  by  every 
stranger  visiting  that  section  of  country.  Many  of 
these  works  are  still  in  fine  preservation,  while  others 
have  become  defaced  by  the  hand  of  time,  or  have  been 


"?'-'ii^itW"VT^2:-^'7-..:t-'.-  ■  ■ 


380 


FORTS  AROUND  BOSTON. 


removed  to  give  place  to  modern  improvements.  The 
followinfT  description  of  those  remaining  is  extracted 
from  Silliman's  Journal,  and  will  prove  a  guide  to  stran- 
gers in  determining  their  localities  : 

*^t  Breed's  Hilly  that  blood-stained  field,  the  redoubt 
thrown  up  by  the  Americans  is  nearly  effaced  ;  scarce- 
ly the  slightest  traco  of  ic  remains  ;  but  the  entrench- 
ment, which  extended  from  the  redoubt  to  the  marsh,  is 
still  marked  by  a  slight  elevation  of  the  ground.  The 
redoubt  thrown  up  by  the  British  on  the  summit  of  the 
hill,  may  be  easily  distinguished. 

Bunker  HilU  The  remains  of  the  British  fort  are  vis- 
ible, the  works  must  have  been  very  strong,  and  occu- 
pied a  large  extent  of  ground — they  are  on  the  summit 
and  slope  of  the  hill  looking  towards  the  peninsula. 

Ploughed  Hill.  The  works  upon  this  hill  were  com- 
menced by  the  Americans  on  the  night  of  August  26th, 
J  775,  and  received  more  fire  from  the  British  than  any 
of  the  other  forts  ;  in  a  few  days  more  than  three  hun- 
dred shells  were  fired  at  these  fortifications.  A  small 
part  of  the  rampart  remains,  but  the  whole  hill  is  sur- 
rounded by  the  mounds  and  fosse  of  the  ancient  fort, 
which  has  been  nearly  obliterated. 

Cobble  or  BarreWs  Hill  was  fortified,  and  occupied  as 
a  strong  post,  in  the  war  of  the  revolution,  by  General 
Putnam,  and,  in  consequence  of  its  strength,  was  call- 
ed Putnam's  impregnable  fortress.  It  was  commenced 
on  the  night  of  November  22d  ;  and  the  activity  of  its 
fire  is  well  known  to  those  who  have  studied  the  details 
of  the  siege  of  Boston.  This  fort  has  been  destroyed  ; 
but  the  position  is  easily  identified. 


rORTS  AROnND  BOSTOW- 


5S7 


Lcchmere  Point  Redoubt^  one  hundred  yards  from 
West  Boston  bridge,  displays  more  science  in  its  con- 
Btruction,  and  has  a  wider  and  deeper  fosse  than  most 
of  the  other  fortifications.  It  was  commenced  on  Dec. 
1  Ith,  1775,  and  it  was  several  days  before  it  was  com- 
pleted, during  which  time  it  was  much  exposed  to  the 
fire  of  the  English  in  Boston.  Two  or  three  soldiers  of 
the  revolutionary  army  wero  killed  at  this  redoubt,  and 
the  Prunus  virginiana,  with  its  red  berries,  marks  the 
spot  where  they  were  probably  interred.  Upon  one 
angle  of  the  fort  where  the  cannon  were  pointed  with 
most  destructive  cfiect,  a  church  is  now  erected. 

A  causeway  made  across  the  marsh,  the  covered 
way  which  crosses  the  brow  of  the  hill,  and  the  lines 
which  flanked  Willis'  Creek,  are  still  perfect,  and  may 
be  traced  with  great  facility. 

Winter  Hill  Fort  appears  to  have  been  the  most  ex- 
tensive, and  the  entrenchments  more  numerous,  than 
any  of  the  other  positions  of  the  American  army.  The 
fort  on  the  hill  is  almost  entirely  destroyed  ;  only  a 
small  part  of  the  rampart  still  remains  perfect. 

A  redoubt  situated  upon  Ten  Hill  Farm,  which  com- 
manded the  navigation  of  the  Mystic  river,  is  complete, 
as  are  also  some  slight  entrenchments  near. 

A  redoubt,  situated  between  Winter  and  Prospect 
Hill,  has  been  completely  carried  away,  and  a  quarry 
has  been  opened  on  the  spot.  In  the  general  orders, 
issued  at  Cambridge,  guards  were  directed  to  be  sta- 
tioned at  White  House  Redoubt,  and  this  it  is  believed 
was  the  post  intended.  General  Lee  is  said  to  have 
had  his  head  quarters  in  a  farm  house  immediately  ia 
the  rear  of  this  redoubt 


I* 


I 


•  '!■ 

V-V 


r 


i,  M 

3 


383 


FORTS  AROUND   BOSTON. 


Prospect  Hill  has  two  eminences,  both  of  which  were 
strongly  fortified,  and  connected  by  a  rampart  and 
fosse ;  about  two  hundred  yards  are  quite  entire  ;  they 
are  ornamented  witli  the  aster,  solidago,  rosa,  &c. ;  and 
those  who  feel  any  curiosity  about  these  lines,  will  be 
much  gratified  by  the  view  here  afl[()rded.  The  forts 
on  these  hills  were  destroyed  only  a  few  years  ago,  but 
their  size  can  be  distinctly  seen.  On  the  southern  ezri- 
incnce  a  part  of  the  fort  is  still  entire,  and  the  south- 
west face  of  the  hill  is  divided  into  several  platforms. 
There  are  also  cvi«.iont  marks  of  the  dwellinsfs  of  the 
soldiers.  The  extensive  view  from  this  hill,  the  walk 
on  the  ancient  ramparts,  and  the  sight  of  the  various 
stations  occupied  by  the  American  army  will  render 
this  spot,  at  a  future  period,  a  favorite  resort. 

The  Cambridge  LineSy  situated  upon  Butler's  Hill, 
appear  to  have  consisted  of  six  regular  forts,  connected 
by  a  strong  entrenchment.  The  most  northerly  of 
these  forts  is  perfect.  With  the  exception  of  one  of  its 
angles  destroyed  by  the  road,  it  appears  as  if  just  quit- 
ted by  the  army  of  America ;  its  bastions  are  entire,  the 
outline  is  perfect,  and  it  seems  a  chief  d'oeuvre  of  the 
military  art. 

A  square  fort  may  be  seen  near  the  southern  extrem- 
ity of  these  lines,  in  fine  preservation  ;  it  is  in  a  field 
within  two  hundred  yards  of  the  road  to  Cambridge. 
The  fec stern  vampart  is  lower  than  the  others,  and  the 
gateway  with  its  bank  of  earth  still  remains. 

The  second  Line  of  Defence  may  be  traced  on  the  col- 
lege green  at  Cambridge,  but  its  proximity  to  the  pub- 
lic halls  may  have  produced  some  inconvenience,  and 
it  has  been  carefully  destroyed. 


FORTS  AROlJNlJ  noSfON. 


3S9 


A  semicircular  battery,  with  three  embrasures,  on  thrt 
northiirn  shore  of  Charles  river,  near  its  entrance  into 
the  bay,  is  in  a  perfect  state  of  preservation.  It  is  rath- 
er above  the  level  of  the  marsh,  and  those  who  would 
wish  to  see  it,  should  pass  on  the  road  to  Cambridge 
until  they  arrive  at  a  cross  road  which  leads  to  the 
bank  of  the  river  ;  by  following  the  course  of  the 
stream,  they  may  arrive  at  this  battery  without  cross- 
ing the  marsh,  which  is  its  northern  boundary  and  dif- 
ficult to  pass. 

Brookline  Fort,  or,  as  it  is  called  in  the  annals  of  the 
revolution,  the  fort  on  Sewall's  Point,  was  very  exten- 
sive, and  would  still  be  perfect,  were  it  not  for  the  road 
which  divides  it  into  two  nearly  equal  parts.  With  this 
exception,  the  ramparts  and  an  irregular  bastion,  which 
commanded  the  entrance  of  Charles  river,  are  entire. 
The  fort  was  nearly  quadrangular,  and  the  fortifications 
stronger  than  many  of  the  other  positions  of  the  Amer- 
ican army. 

A  Battery,  on  the  southern  shore  of  Muddy  river, 
with  three  embrasures,  is  only  slightly  injured. 

Forts  at  Roxbury.  The  lower  fort  at  Roxbury  ap- 
pears to  have  been  the  earliest  erected,  and  by  its  ele- 
vation commanded  the  avenue  to  Boston  over  the  pe- 
ninsula, and  prevented  the  advance  of  the  English 
troops  in  that  direction.  It  is  of  the  most  irregular 
form,  the  interior  occupies  about  two  acres  of  ground, 
and  as  the  hill  is  bare  of  soil,  the  places  may  still  be 
seen  whence  the  earth  was  taken  to  form  the  ramparts. 
This  fortification  has  not  been  at  all  injured,  and  the 
embrasures  may  still  be  noticed  where  the  cannon 
were  placed  which  fired  upon  the  advanced  lines  of  the 
enemy. 


Sij^.iitHi'i*rt*K^»« 


390 


roRT5  AUt>rNr>  noaroii. 


r  ; 


On  n.  lujiThcr  rtninonco  of  the  samo  hill  ih  situntcd  a 
qundranpnlar  fori,  built  on  tho  Huniniit  of  tho  rorlf,  nnd 
boinp  perhaps  thrir  fust  atton>]>t  at  regular  rorlifirn- 
tion,  it  \vn^^  coiiPitlcriMl  l)y  tho  militia  of  iinparallrlod 
Btronpth,  nnd  rxoitcMl  pn^at  conlulrnco  in  that  win^  of 
tho  army  stationed  at  Uoxhnry. 

The  lio.vhury  Line:^,  about  three  quarters  of  a  mile  in 
ftdvanee  o(  tlie  forts,  and  two  hundred  yards  north  of 
the  town,  are  still  to  ho  soon  on  the  eastern  side  of  tho 
peninsula,  and  may  he  distinguished  by  any  person  jjo- 
in^  by  the  nearest  road  to  nt)rohoster,  over  Lnnd/s  dam. 

At  this  ]>eriod  it  may  be  proper  to  mention  the  British 
fortitieationa.  The  lines  sittiated  ujion  tho  Nook  may 
he  seen  to  ^^irat  advantaixe  on  the  western  side  of  tho 
isthmus,  about  a  quarter  (A"  a  mile  f^outh  of  the  jcfreen 
stores.  I'here  appear  to  have  been  two  lines  of  en- 
trenchments carried  quite  across  the  peninsula,  nnd 
the  fosse,  which  wns  tilled  at  hiirh  water,  converted 
Boston  into  an  island.  The  mounds,  ramparts  and 
wide  ditches  which  remain,  attest  the  strenj^th  of  tho 
original  works.  The  small  battery  on  the  common, 
erected  by  the  British,  may  ptM-bapi  remain  for  a  long 
period  of  years,  as  a  memorial  of  ancient  times. 

The  Dorchester  Lives.  Of  these,  some  very  slight 
traces  may  he  distin<ruished. 

Forts  on  Dorchester  Heights.  We  now  hasten  (o  the 
last  forts,  the  erection  of  which  terminated  the  contest 
in  this  portion  of  the  eastern  states  of  America.  It  is 
to  be  regretted  that  the  oitrenehments  throwm  up  by 
the  army  of  the  revolution,  on  the  heights  of  Dofrhea- 
ter,  are  almost  entirely  obliterated  by  tho  erection  of 
two  new  forts  in  the  late  war.     But  iiome  traceii  of  the 


rnoM  BOSTON  TO  ronn.ANn, 


501 


ancient  trorUfl  may  l>f*  nr'ou  on  both  IuIIp  ;  fhn  old  ft)rti 
worn  rotifltrtirt'Ml  with  inoro  hUHI,  ntul  (linplny  in'7re 
scionro  tlum  llu'  i-PCPtit  works,  the  nnnpurlM  of  wliirli 
arc  rvpii  now  fiillinii  <lown  ;  nn<l  wo  woiiM  '_'liully  snn 
tlioni  «l«'?>lroy«Ml  if  (Voin  tlpMi-  rniu'^  the  iinru'nt,  worki 
co\\]{\  v«'-a|>p('nr. 

A  nol»!''  o(l;»^':onnl  fort  nnd  two  Iinttoriof,  winrli 
mny  l»n  sron  in  inMl'i'it  prrsnv.ilion  npon  llic  proni- 
ontorv,  wore  rnM'lrd  nflrr  llic  drpinlnrr  ol*  (Ik^  Knrlish 
from  Hoslon.  'I'Iip  I'orJ  is  Hifnntcd  af  iho  point  ;  ono 
battrry  in  in  th(^  rrar  ol'  llic  I  lonsn  of  Imbishy,  wboRO 
inmatos  will  prol)id)ly  noon  d'^^froy  il,  nnd  tho  othrr 
upon  a  visinfi;  ;^ronnd  inimrdiatoly  briow  tlto  br'ights  of 
DorrboHtor. 

AiM)nk  nm,  tioar  Sonlh  P.oston  bridj]:o,  may  br  soon 
thn  last  brcasl-worU  wbioU  wn^  tbrown  np  by  tlic  ftir- 
ccs  of  Amorica  •Inrin;-.^  Ibin  anbioOM  rontrst,  IH  np- 
poaranrr  on  ihr  mornni;:  ol'  Marrb  17,  177(5,  indurcd 
tbo  dcpaitnro  ol'lbp  l'.:i(iNh  frooi)M  froni  jioston  in  a  fow 
lionr?(,  and  llins  planed  tbo  M«>al  to  tbn  indoptMidnnco  of 
tho  Ncw-l''.n^lan<l  states.  V,\\\  Ibor.ci  wbo  wonld  wi.ib 
to  sen  tbif  ontHMicbmont  mnst  vinit  it  .^oon.  Tbo  ono- 
my  luivo  attarkrd  il  on  ibrro  sidr^,  and  aio  i)ro(M'f'dinK 
by  sap  and  by  minr  ;  part  of  tbo  fosso  is  already  de- 
Btroycd,  and  tbo  rampart  noiU  to  itH  fall. 

FROM  BOSTON  TO  PORTLAND,  (Maine.) 

A  Mtajiro  Iravrfl  Boston  daily  at  8  A.  M.  (Sundays  ox- 

coptcd,)  nnirbing  Nowbnryport  at  1  P.  M.  and  Port»- 

moutli,  N.  li.  at  T).   Loaves  Portetmoutb  tbo  next  morn- 

in<r  ot  8,  and  rcacbcs  Portland  at  5  P.  M.     Distanco. 

II 


iHMMMill 


f 


i\\  ■! 


li 


391 


LTNN — flALRM. 


120  miles — fare  $6.     The  intervening  distances  are  a» 
follows  : 

JSIilrs. 

Lynn,* 0 

Salem,* 5 

Newlniryport, "24 

Portsmouth, 24 


Miles. 

York, 9 

Kenncbunk, 24 

Sato, 10 

Portland, 15 


Lynn  is  a  largo  tovvnahip,  with  a  population  of  be- 
tween 4  and  5000.  It  contains  G  churches,  and  many 
large  manufacturing  establishments  for  ladies'  shoes> 
which  are  sent  to  the  southern  states  and  the  West  In- 
dies. The  Lynn  beach  connects  the  peninsula  of  Na- 
hant  with  the  main  land,  and  is  a  favorite  resort  in 
Bummcr. 

This  is  one  of  the  oldest  towns  in  New-England,  and 
aeveral  records  of  its  early  history  have  been  recently 
collected  and  j)ublished  in  Boston.  The  author  has 
given  a  mass  of  interesting  facts  and  occurrences  of 
"  olden  time,"  furnishing  altogether  a  curious  compen- 
dium, not  only  to  antiquarians  and  the  immediate  de- 
scendants of  the  first  seuiers  of  that  place,  but  to  read- 
ers of  every  class  and  section  of  the  country.  All  the 
quaintness  and  original  simplicity  of  the  original  lan- 
guage has  been  preserved,  and  such  remarks  of  the 
compiler  introduced  as  are  necessary  to  explain  the 
meaning  or  increase  the  interest. 

Salem  is  considered  the  second  town  in  New-Eng- 
land in  commerce,  wealth  and  population.    It  is  located 


*  These  places  are  not  on  the  direct  route  from  Bos- 
ton to  Newburyport ;  but  it  is,  nevertheless,  recom- 
mended to  travellers  to  pass  through  them. 


on 

No 

riv< 

150 

sidt 

by 

an 


8  are  a» 

Miles. 

9 

24 

10 

15 


•  •  • 

•  •  • 


I  •  • 


of  be- 
(l  many 
'  shoes^ 
^cst  In- 
of  Na- 
:'sort  in 

nd,  and 
ccently 
lor  has 
nces  of 
ompen- 
iatc  de- 
to  read- 
All  the 
nal  lan- 
of  the 
ain  the 

iv-Eng- 
located 


n  Bos- 
recom- 


NEWIU'RYPORT PORTSMOUTH. 


303 


i 


on  a  peninsula  formed  by  two  inlets  of  the  sea,  called 
North  and  South  rivers.  On  the  opposite  side  of  North 
river  is  the  town  of  Beverly,  to  which  a  bridge  leads, 
1500  feet  in  lon^th.  Marblchead  is  on  the  opposite 
side  of  South  rivor,  whicii  forms  the  harbor,  d(;fended 
by  two  forts.  Salein  contains  a  court  house,  3  banks, 
an  athcncum,  a  museum,  an  orphan  asylum  and  13 
churches.  The  SquarCj  near  the  centre  of  the  town,  is 
a  beautiful  tract  of  ground  ;  and  is  surrounded  by  nu- 
merous elegant  private  dwellings. 

Salem  was  settled  as  early  as  162G.  Its  Indian  name 
was  Naumkeag.  In  1692,  and  for  some  time  after- 
wards, several  of  its  inhabitants  became  a  prey  to  the 
greatest  credulity  and  bigotry.  Its  prison  was  crowd- 
ed with  persons  accused  of  witchcraft,  many  of  whom 
paid  theirlife  as  a  forfeit  for  their  supposed  crimes.  The 
present  population  of  the  town  is  from  12  to  15,000. 

Newburyport  is  handsomely  situated  on  the  south 
bank  of  the  Merrimack  river,  three  miles  from,  its 
mouth,  rising  on  a  gradual  acclivity  from  the  water. 
The  streets  are  wide,  and  intersect  each  other  at  right 
angles  ;  and  many  of  the  houses  are  elegant.  The 
court  house,  standing  at  the  head  of  one  of  the  princi- 
pal streets  leading  from  the  river,  adds  much  to  the 
beauty  of  the  place.  The  village  contains  2  banks,  7 
churches  and  7000  inhabitants,  and  is  a  place  of  con- 
siderable trade  ;  though  it  suffered  much  during  the  re- 
strictive system,  previous  to  the  last  war. 

Portsmouth  is  the  largest  town  and  only  seaport 
in  New-Hampshire.  It  is  located  on  the  south  side  of 
the  Piscataqua  river,  2  miles  from  its  mouth.    The  tpwn 


'm^'mm^:ymmmm^: 


u^u 


iy\ 


]i 


I'l 


II 


( 


394 


PORTLAND. 


contains  5  banks,  an  atheneum,  an  asylum  for  femalea, 
an  alms-house,  custom-house  and  7  churches.  A 
bridge,  2371  feet  long,  crosses  the  river  at  this  place  to 
Kittcry,  Me.  on  the  opposite  side.  On  an  island  be- 
tween the  two  places  is  a  navy  yard.  The  town  is 
handsome  in  its  appcar?.nce,  is  a  place  of  considerable 
trade,  and  contains  a  population  of  about  8000. 

In  IGOo,  this  place  v/as  assaulted  by  a  party  of  In- 
dians, and  14  of  its  inhabitants  killed,  one  scalped,  who 
recovered,  and  four  taken  prisoners.  After  burning 
several  houses,  the  Indians  retreated  through  what  is 
called  the  g^eat  sioamp.  They  were,  however,  overtak- 
en the  next  morning  by  a  company  of  militia,  dispers- 
ed, and  the  prisoners  rc-taken. 

After  leaving  Portsmouth,  the  villages  of  York, 
"Welles,  Kennebunk  and  Saco,  are  successively  pass- 
ed, before  reaching  Portland ;  affording  very  little  to 
interest,  if  we  except  an  old  fort  about  three  miles  and 
a  half  northeast  of  Welles,  and  the  falls  at  Saco,  on 
the  river  of  that  name,  which  rises  in  the  White 
Mountains  of  New-Hampshire.  These  falls  are  about 
30  feet,  and  afford  facilities  for  extensive  manufactur- 
ing operations. 

Portland,  the  c;ipital  of  Maine,  and  a  port  of  entry, 
is  a  beautiful  town,  located  on  a  peninsula  projecting 
into  Casco  bay.  This  peninsula  has  two  prominences  ; 
on  one  of  which  stands  several  elegant  dwelling  houses, 
and  on  the  other  an  observatory.  The  harbor  is  safe, 
well  defended,  and  has  a  light-house  at  its  entrance. 
Among  the  public  buildings  in  the  town  are  an  elegant 
court-house,  a  jail,  custom-house,  2  banks,  an  acade- 
my, athencum  and  10  churches.     Population,  upwards 


o 
is 


PORTLAND. 


395 


laco,  on 


of  12,000.  From  the  observatory,  an  extensive  prospect 
13  had  of  the  ocean  and  of  the  country  at  the  northwest, 
terminated  by  the  White  Mountains.  On  Bang's  and 
House  Islands,  at  the  entrance  of  the  harbor,  are  Forts 
Preble  and  Scammel.  At  the  cast,  32  mdes  distant,  is 
seen  the  light-house  at  the  mouth  of  the  Kennebec  riv- 
er, with  a  great  variety  of  islands  intervening.  West 
of  the  observatory  is  Fort  Sumner,  on  a  hill,  vvith  seve- 
ral intrenchments  made  during  the  revolutionary  war. 

Portland  (then  called  Falmouth)  was  nearly  laid  in 
ruins  in  Oct.  1775.  The  inhabitants  were  required  by 
Capt.  Mo  watt,  of  the  Britisli  sloop  of  war  Canceau,  to 
surrender  their  arms  ;  and  on  a  refusal,  he  commenced 
a  bombardment  of  the  town,  which  lasted  9  hours,  re- 
sulting in  a  destruction  of  130  houses,  three  fourths  of 
the  whole  number. 

Stages  leave  Portland  three  times  a  week  for  the 
White  Mountains  in  New-Hampshire,  {see  p.  363,) 
passing  through  Westbrook,  Gorham,  Standish,  Bald- 
win, Hiram,  Brownsfield  and  Fryeburgh  to  Conway, 
which  they  reach  at  evening.  Distance  62  miles — fare 
^3.  From  Conw^ay,  a  stage  leaves  on  Monday  and 
Thursday  mornings,  passing  through  Bartlett,  Hart's 
Location,  over  the  Avalanches  at  the  Notch  of  tho 
White  Mountains,  through  Nash  and  Swain's  Loca- 
tion, Britton  woods  and  Bethlehem  to  Littleton  on  the 
Connecticut  river.  Distance  48  miles — fare  $3.  [Lit- 
tleton is  17  miles  below  Lancaster,  100  miles  north  of 
Concord,  N.  H.  and  is  located  at  the  mouth  and  falls  of 
the  Amanoosuc  river.     See  p.  355.] 


ii2 


596 


FROM  POftTLAND  TO  QUEBEC, 


u 


;Vr 


'  •!■'■' 


'     I 


FROM  PORTLAND  TO  aUEBEC— 259  miles. 

A  new  road  is  now  finished  from  Portland  to  Gtuebec, 
principally  over  the  route  pursued  by  Gen.  Arnold  and 
his  troops  in  1775,  previous  to  the  assault  of  that  place 
by  Gen.  Montgomery.  The  completion  of  this  road 
will  frequently  induce  strangers  to  take  the  state  of 
Maine,  as  well  as  Montreal,  in  their  route  to  or  from 
Gtuebec. 

The  intermediate  distances  on  this  routo  are  as  fol- 
lows : 


Miles. 

Bloomfield, 7 

Norridgework 5 

Anson, 11 

Dead  River, 20 

Forks  of  JKennebeck 

River, r ...    15 

Moose  River, 24 


Chaudiere  River, 


37 


Ctuebec, 60 


Miles. 
From  Portland  to  North 

Yarmouth, 12 

Freeport, 6 

Brunswick, 9 

Bowdointown, 13 

Hallowell, 15 

Augusta, 3 

Sidney,.   12 

Waterville, 5 

Fairfield, 4 

North  Yarmouth,  12  miles  north  of  Portland,  is 
located  on  Casco  bay,  about  35  miles  from  the  ocean, 
and  is  a  village  of  some  magnitude,  containing  4  (  hurch- 
es,  an  academy  and  about  4000  inhabitants.  The  bay 
affords  fine  anchorage  for  vessels,  and  the  surrounding 
country  is  picturesque  and  interesting. 

Freeport,  6  miles  farther,  is  at  the  head  of  Casco 
bay,  and  contains  a  population  of  about  2500  inhabi- 
tants. 

Brunswick,  9  miles.  The  village,  which  is  peculiar- 
ly pleasant,  is  situated  on  the  southwest  bank  of  the 
Androscoggin  river,  at  the  falls,  which  furnish  valua- 


at 


HALLOWELL SIDNEY. 


397 


eck 


milea. 

Cluebec, 
lold  and 
tat  place 
iiis  road 
state  of 
or  from 

as  foU 

Miles. 
..     7 
..     5 
..   11 
..  20 

15 

24 
37 
...60 

land,  is 
ocean, 
rhurch- 
'he  bay 
unding 

Casco 
inhabi- 

iculiar- 
of  the 
valua- 


ble Beats  for  mills  and  manufactories.  Bowdoin  college^ 
at  this  place,  is  located  on  an  elevated  and  beautiful 
plain,  enjoying  a  rich  and  diversified  view  of  the  riv- 
er and  surrounding  country.  The  college  originally 
received  a  donation  of  $10,000  from  the  late  James  D. 
Bowdoin,  Esq.  and  five  townships  of  land  from  tho 
state.  It  also  receives  .53000  annually  from  the  latter. 
From  130  to  150  students  are  yearly  educated  at  this 
institution. 

BowDOiNTOWN,  13  miles. 

Hallowell,  15  miles,  is  a  very  flourishing  village, 
on  the  Kcnnebeck  river,  at  the  head  of  tide  water.  It 
contains  an  academy,  a  bank,  three  churches,  between 
•2  and  300  dwelling  houses,  some  of  which  are  very  ele- 
gant, and  about  3000  inhabitants.  Granite  is  here  ob- 
tained, which  is  considered  equal  to  any  ever  discover- 
ed in  the  Union.  Vessels  of  150  tons  burthen  ascend 
the  river  as  far  as  this  place. 

Augusta,  3  miles,  is  the  seat  of  government  of  tho 
state,  and  is  located  on  both  sides  of  the  Kennebeck 
river,  over  which  is  a  substantial  bridge.  A  part  of  the 
village  is  on  a  very  elevated  plain  above  the  river,  and 
a  part  of  it  on  its  banks.  Many  of  the  dwellings  ex- 
hibit much  taste  and  elegance  in  their  structure,  and 
the  whole  appearance  of  the  place  is  peculiarly  inviting 
and  pleasant. 

The  new  State  House,  lately  erected  here,  is  an 
ornament  to  the  town  and  highly  creditable  to  the  mu- 
nificence of  the  state. 

Sidney,  12  miles  farther,  is  a  pleasant  village  on  th« 
Kennebeck  river. 


■  'w'**'''?«^^ss^e!^-r?!^ 


393 


FROM  PORTLAND  TO  KASTPORT. 


Waterville,  5  milfts,  on  the  same  river,  is  a  place 
of  considrrable  magnitude,  containing  a  bank.  AtTe- 
conick  Falls  in  this  town,  at  the  head  of  boat  naviga- 
tion, then;  are  several  manufactories,  and  a  flourishing 
village  is  springing  up.  Waterville  college^  under  the 
direction  of  the  Baptist  denomination,  is  located  in  this 
town.  It  was  conunenced  in  1818,  and  educates  be- 
tween 50  and  60  students  annually  for  the  ministry. 

Bloomfield,  11  miles.  A  pleasant  village,  contain- 
ing a  respectable  academy. 

NoRRiDGEWORK,  5  milcs,  is  situated  on  both  banka 
of  the  Kennebeck  river.  It  is  the  capital  of  Somerset 
county,  and  contains  a  court  house  and  jail.  The  vil- 
lage is  centrally  located  for  the  trade  of  a  fertile  back 
country,  and  is  a  flourishing  place,  containing  a  popu- 
lation of  about  2000  inhabitants. 

The  route  to  Ctuebec  continues  through  a  less  pop- 
ulous country  for  about  50  miles  ;  when,  for  the  re- 
maining distance,  it  passes  through  extensive  forests, 
with  an  occasional  settlement  only.  These  forests, 
however,  are  giving  way  to  the  arts  of  husbandry,  and 
in  a  few  years  >vill  doubtless  be  succeeded  by  a  succes- 
sion of  settlements  and  cultivated  farms. 


B 

si 

T 


FROM  PORTLAND  TO  EASTPORT— 287  miles. 
The  following  are  the  intermediate  distances  : 

Miles 


Miles. 

North  Yarmouth, 12 

Freeport, 6 

Brunswick, 9 

Bath, 7 

Wiscasset, 15 

Newcastle, 11 


Waldoboro', 12 

Warren, 8 

Thomastown, 5 

Camden, 11 

Lincolnville, 7 

Belfast, 11 


DATH IVALDODORO'. 


393 


jyiiles 

Buckstown, 18 

Penobscot, •  13 

Castino, 4 

BIudHUI, 10 

Surry, 8 

Trenton, 1-2 

Sullivan, 9 


Miles. 

Harriyon, ,.  8 

Columbia, 12 

Jonesboro', 9 

Machias, 9 

iL.  Falls  of  ATachias,. . .  6 

Dcnncysvillc, 23 

Eastport  Ferry, 14 


Steuben, 14  I  Eastport, 4 

The  routo  is  near  the  coast,  and  ciiibraccs  an  extent 
of  highly  interesting  and  romantic  country.  North- 
Yarmouth,  Freeport  and  Brunswick  have  already  been 
noticed. 

Bath,  34  miles  northeast  of  Portland,  is  a  port  of  en- 
try, on  the  west  side  of  the  Kennebeck  river,  15  miles 
from  its  mouth.  The  river  is  here  a  mile  wide,  and  the 
town  is  built  on  an  acclivity  for  a  mile  and  a  half  in  ex- 
tent, and  assumes  a  very  handsome  appearance  from 
the  water.  It  is  a  place  of  extensive  business,  and 
contains  two  banks,  an  academy,  three  churches,  and 
a  population  of  nearly  4000  inhabitants. 

WiscASSET,  15  miles,  is  a  port  of  entry,  located  on 
the  west  side  of  Sheepscot  river,  with  an  excellent  har- 
bor. The  place  contains  a  court  houso,  jail,  bank,  in- 
surance ofBcc,  and  some  other  public  buildings,  and  a 
population  of  about  2500. 

Newcastle,  11  miles,  is  located  on  the  west  side  of 
Sheepscot  river. 

Waldoboro',  12  miles,  is  a  port  of  entry  and  a  place 
of  considerable  trade,  containing  a  population  of  about 
3000  inhabitants. 


•'^Jrar-'«'-i'«^^«Bosi»'K:i|<y|, 


W$>^i:- 


"tm 


<      i\ 


w 


lil 


I 


\m 


400 


U  ,'.  U  •'.  E  N ("  A  S  T I N  E . 


Wahuen,  8  niiU's,  is  locntcd  on  St.  G«'orgi;'8  river, 
whicli  is  iiavijj!;uble  to  tliia  place  for  slo«»p3. 

TiioMASTOWN,  5  miles,  is  a  place  of  extensive  busi- 
ness, situated  on  the  west  side  of  Penobscot  bay  and  on 
St.  Geor«^e's  river,  12  miles  from  its  mouth.  The  state 
prison  of  Maine  is  at  this  j)lace,  and  is  in  a  lot  of  10 
acres,  enclosed  by  a  solid  wall,  within  which  is  an  ex- 
tensive quarry  of  limestone.  There  arc  also  in  the  vi- 
cinity of  the  town  inexhaustible  quarries  of  lime  and 
marble,  of  which  large  qiiantitics  are  annually  exported. 
The  village  contains  a  bank  and  a  population  of  about 
3000  inhabitants.  About  a  mile  from  the  village  is  the 
ancient  residence  of  the  late  Gen.  Knox,  now  in  a  state 
of  decay. 

Camden,  11  miles,  and  Lincolnville,  7  miles  far- 
ther, are  both  situated  on  the  west  side  of  the  Penob- 
scot bay. 

Belfast,  11  miles  from  Lincolnville,  is  on  the  same 
side  of  the  bay,  and  is  a  flourishing  village. 

BucKSTOWN,  18  miles,  is  on  the  east  side  of  the  Pe- 
nobscot, the  largest  river  in  the  state.  It  is  navigable 
for  large  vessels  to  Bangor,  50  miles  from  its  entrance 
into  the  bay. 

Penobscot,  13  miles,  on  the  east  side  of  the  bay  of 
that  name. 

Castine,  -4  miles,  is  «;ituated  on  a  promontory,  near 
the  head  of  the  east  side  of  Penobscot  bav,  with  a  beau- 
tiful  harbor  stretching  out  before  tlie  town.  Castine 
can  be  easily  defended  from  assault ;  as  the  narrow- 
ness of  the  i&lhmuj  wliich  connects  it  with  the  main 


MAC  III  AS EASTrOKT. 


401 


s  river, 

ve  busi- 
' and  on 
le  state 
t  of  10 
an  cx- 
tho  vi- 
ne and 
ported, 
r  about 
e  is  the 
a  state 

es  far- 
^enob- 

i  same 

^ePe- 

igable 
trance 

»ay  of 

near 
beau- 
LStine 
•row- 
main 


land  could  be  insulated  with  comparativoly  a  small 
expense  ;  added  to  which,  strong  batteries  would  ena- 
ble it  to  resist  any  force  whicli  would  probably  be 
brought  against  it.  This  would  be  the  more  important 
in  time  of  war,  as  an  (Ticmy  in  poasesaion  of  the  place, 
would  have  command  of  the  intermediate  country  from 
Penobscot  to  St.  Croix.  The  place  was  taken  during 
the  last  war,  and  the  British  entrenchments  on  a  hill 
above  the  town  are  still  visible. 

Blue  Hill,  Surry,  Trenton,  Sullivan  (in  which  there  is 
a  bridge  across  Hog  bay  1400  feet  long)  Steuben,  Har- 
rison, Columbia  and  Jonesborough  arc  successively 
passed  in  travelling  from  Castine  to 

Machias,  a  port  of  entry  and  capital  of  Washington 
county.  Me.  The  town  contains  two  villages  ;  one  sit- 
uated at  the  falls  of  the  east  branch  of  the  Machias 
river,  and  the  other  at  the  falls  of  the  west  branch  of  the 
same  stream.  Between  the  two  villages  a  bridge  is 
erected  across  Middle  river,  which,  with  the  causeway, 
is  1900  feet  long.  Machias  contains  a  court  house, 
jail,  2  churches,  a  very  flourishing  academy,  and  is  a 
thriving  place. 

Eastport,  is  a  port  of  entry  on  Moose  island  inPas- 
samaquoddy  bay.  The  island  is  4  miles  long,  with  a 
bold  shore,  the  tide  ordinarily  rising  here  25  feet.  The 
town  is  principally  built  on  the  southern  part  of  the  isl- 
and, and  contains  a  bank,  3  churches  and  about  2000 
inhabitants.  There  are  also  fortifications  in  the  vicini- 
ty, which  were  constructed  during  the  last  war.  The 
view  from  the  heights  on  the  island  is  very  extensive 
and  romantic,  taking  in  the  bay  with  its  numerous  isl- 
ands and  the  adjacent  coast.    Between  Eastport  and 


tmBmmmmmmimmfimm 


402 


STAGES  FROM  HOSTON  TO  KEW-TORK. 


:  i 


the  town  of  Perry  on  the  main  land,  a  bridgo  has  been 
constructod,  rising  of  1200  feet  lon;^.  A  Hne  of  steam 
boats  is  established  between  this  place  and  Boston, 
touching  at  Portland,  so  that  travellers  can  take  either 
a  water  or  land  route  to  that  city. 

RoBniNSTowN,  13  miles  northwest  of  Eastport,  locat- 
ed at  the  mouth  of  the  St.  Croix  river  at  its  entrance 
into  the  Passamaquoddy  bay,  is  on  the  boundary  liae 
between  the  United  States  and  the  British  Province  of 
New-Brunswick,  and  is  opposite  St.  Andrews. 

STAGES  FROM  BOSTON  TO  NEW- YORK, 

via  Hartford  and  JVctv-Huven,  Conn. 

A  sta^Tc  leaves  Boston,  daily  at  1  P.  M. ;  arrives  in 
Hartford  next  morninof  at  6,  in  New-Haven  at  2  P.  M., 
and  in  New- York  at  0,  second  morning — distance  210 
miles,  fare  $11.  This  line  meets  a  steam  boat  every 
day  at  New-Haven,  except  Sunday — fare  th  oui^h  by 
stage  and  steam  boui,  $10,50.  A  stage  also  leaves 
Boston  on  Sunday  and  Wednesday,  at  3  A.  M.  reaches 
New-London,  Conn,  at  evening,  where  a  steam  boat  is 
taken  which  reaches  New-York  the  next  niornincr. 
Another  Stage  leaves  Boston  and  New-Haven  daily, 
passing  through  Hartford  and  reaching  the  two  first 
mentioned  places  at  evening  of  the  second  day — dis- 
tance 13G  miles,  fare  $7,50. 

Either  of  the  foregoing  routes  can  be  taken  by  trav- 
ellers wishing  to  proceed  directly  to  New- York ;  but 
where  leisure  will  permit,  an  excursion  by  the  way  of 
Providence  is  recommended,  on  the  route  hereafter  de- 
signated.   It  is  more  circuitous,  but  much  more  inter- 


esting 
land 


FROM  BOSTON  TO  PROVIDENCE,  R.  I. 


403 


eating  ;  and  occupies  loss  time,  for  thorn  is  but  40  miles 
land  travel. 


FROM  BOSTON  TO  PROVIDENCE,  R.  I. 

40  miles.* 

A  etagc  leaves  Bostc»n  every  morning  at  5  o'clock, 

and  connects  with  the  steam  boat  line  at  Providence 

daily,  except  Sundays  ;  and  with  the  steam  boat  lino 

at  New-London,  Conn,  on  Wednesday  and  Sunday. 

Stages  also  leave  Boston  daily  at  7  and  U  A.  M.,  for 

Providence.    Fare  $2,50.    The  intermediate  distances 

follow : 

Miles.  Miles, 

Roxbury, 2  Wrcntham, . , , , 7 

Dedham, 8  Pawtncket, 9 

Walpole, 10  Providence, 4 

In  proceedincT  to  Roxbury,  the  stage  passes  over  what 
is  called  the  Neck,  a  narrow  strip  of  land,  contain- 
ing intrenchments  noticed  at  p.  390.  On  Dorchester 
Heights,  (see  p.  390  and  p.  391,)  which  are  seen  at  the 
east,  many  of  the  works  erected  for  commanding  Bos- 
ton and  its  harbor,  arc  in  tolerable  preservation. 

Passing  the  Blue  Hills,  7  miles  from  Boston,  which 
afford  a  pleasant  retreat  in  the  sumnr.er  months,  and  a 
charming  prospect  of  the  surrounding  country,  the  vil- 
lage of 

Dedham  is  reached  in  going  three  miles  farther.  It 
is  a  large  and  beautiful  town,  containing  a  court  house, 


*  A  rail  road  is  now  constructing  from  Boston  to 
Providence,  which  will  probably  be  completed  the  pres- 
ent year.  (1833.) 


EK 


4«n 


r«o\inF.N  «•»•'.. 


i.. 


jttil,  bank,  ^^  oluiivhrs,  a\h\  botwoon  2  an»l  .'U)i)0  mlmhi- 
lants.  (^hrtrlrs  ai\<1  INoponsot  vivorp  run  tl\rouoh  tho 
plao«\  aiul  atli>ril  numerous  srats  lor  nullf  an«l  inann- 
iaot\iriii}i  ostaMishnionls.  Silk  i««  roolcd  nn«l  thnnvpt«Ml 
lioro  on  a  small  soalo — fust  oxporinionl  ol' throw  aluig  in 
the  IT.  S. 

Walpoif.  10,  and  \\  ukntham   17  niilcs  iVoni  Deil- 
hani,  ar«'  small  villa^<^s. 

rAurrcKF.T,  1)  milos  iVom  W  rciitham,  is  looatoil  a1 
the  falls  of  tho  Tawturkot  riv«M  ;  and  is  ono  «>f  tho  n\oat 
ONtonsivo  matu\fact\ninj:  plarrs  in  tho  imion.  Tl  con- 
tains 10  or  1''2  cotton  l'aotori«^s,  scviMal  shops  for  mak- 
ing maohinory,  a  nmnhcr  of  fartorios  for  othor  purpo- 
sos,  and  a  p<^pnlauon  of  ahont  1000.  I'oiu-  niilos  far- 
ther, ovor  a  most  dolii>htf\d  roa^l,  is  tho  Imndsomo  and 
llourishmof  town  of 

rUOV  lOKNCF.. 
Tho  srttlomontof  this  plaoo  was  oonnnonood  as  oar- 
ly  as  tG3t>,  hy   Uogor  AVilliams.     Ho   was  a  p\nitan 
n\inistor,  and  had  boon  scttlod  at  Saloni ;  but  holding 
tenets  contrary  to  the  faith  o(  many  of  his  people,  ho 
was  banished  the  jurisdiction  of  Massachusetts.     IJo 
ean\e  to  what  w  as  called  by  the  Indians  J\looshausick  ; 
but  which  in   jiratitude  for  the  providential  safety  lio 
had  experienced,  he  called  ruoviDENcF,.     It  is  located 
on  the  river  of  the  same  name,  just  above  the  mouth  of 
the  Scckhonk  or  Pawtucket,  '.\C)  miles  from  tho  ocean, 
and  is  a  port  of  entry.     The  town  is  built  on  both 
sides  of  the  river,  across  w  liich  is  an  elegant  bridge ; 
and  is  one  of  the  most  wealthy  and  enterprising  places 
in  the  union.     Besides  a  great  variety  of  extensive 


mnni 
tow  I 
ntiui 
n»>t 

ni 

\\v\\ 

to<l  i| 

tho 

decll 

doni 

nn<l 

itK" 

croii 

popi 

imp 

two 


jnt 


m 


\  'i.^ 


IMH»WN  rNivpnsirf. 


40' 


»nnnnfttihninu  ••f«tn)tl««»liin»'titH, it  nuiiniti"*  n nnul  lnni«"»». 
\o\\\\    liMUT,  iniulut,    l\n««|iilnl,   7    ImuiUm,    n    roMi'^n,   '.\ 

|t«i|niiiiti(iii  JM 


not  tar  tVoin  |S,(MM). 


nrri 


«rM 


Mllf 


I  it< 


UiunvN  l'NivF,n'<n  V,  nt  tliiM  jiliwf,  mv»'I  \vliirl»  tlin 
\\v\.  VllANns  WatI.ANH,  jim.  IMrMidcq,  wmm  ifirplpnra- 
t'Ml  in  17r»!>.  It.  POfMi  iMWf  l(»  n  KMnrrtnhlf  rniiK  nmf»n«.» 
tho  liti'inry  iuptitntinnH  ol"  ihi'  rdiinlry;  l»'il  nl'lrrAvnnlfl 
<|p»'liiwMl,  Umlor  itB  |M«'s«nt  iiMi'  nml  ju(li«'iMii'^  rirwi- 
«1('nl,  l\M\v«'vrr,  it  Im(=>  iittnituMl  u  linnilHoiru*  rl'viitifui, 
nn<l  proiniprfl  to  bf^ronu'  oiu;  «)t  tlu'  ItrpI  p^ntM  «»!*  I'-nrri- 
io^in  tin'  nnioti.  'V\\r  lilMfiry  I"vm  Inffly  l»«'''ii  imirlnn- 
(•r«'nHP«l  l>y  «lomilion'4  IVom  Im»i>IiouI  ;  nn«l  llu»  |»ltil(»- 
woplnrnl  JH»|»iniilMM,  whirh  ih  rxtiMisivo,  in  consfnnlly 
iinproviun;.  'J'Ijp  tollcfrn  rdilicpp^  ,,(*  wliich  llirro  nro 
two,  i\Yv  lorntofl  on  n  lolly  cininiMicc,  vvitli  Ptrrttp  Jfful- 
mfX,  thfMolo,  vit'hly  <lrr«)rnt«Ml  m  itii  fiof  runfisions  juid 
rl('|i»;nnl,  ^anl«M»P.  AlionI  a  iniln  Rtill  rmtlior  (mihI  or 
north-rnpt,  FtiiiidF"  a  lur^n-  Imildin^r,  railed  IIh;  (Inakf^r 
(>ol|p<i;p.  It  >vnp  Itnill  l»y  the;  (''rirnds,  and  is  occiipifxl 
aR  a  bonrdiiifr  pchool  oi*  t.lint  porPtinMioii,  and  ifl  in  nx- 
collpnt,  order.  JNrur  tlti;^,  ol  i-orrcRpoddin/L;  dim*  riHiona 
and  np|>(>iirnnrc',  pIihhIm  llic  ronv  Alms  J  Iooho.  A  l«'«;a- 
vy  of  JiiOOjOOO,  Iki3  niMblod  tlif  town  to  ere  t  IImh  noble 
siruclnrc. 

Tho  town  Mltoioids^  Willi  tin  in«»r^l  deliLdiirtil  piivato 
residences.  I'lie  new  lown  on  tlie  vve'^t  si<le  f»f  tho 
river,  has  nioro  the  appenrnnre  of  a  lioiniphin^j  corn- 
mercial  rily  than  the  ohl.  It  alpo  eonlninn  many  ppa- 
cions  dwellin/Jfl  which  inipnrt  to  it  an  air  of  proRpeiity. 
Tho  Hill,  or  East  TrovideiKic,  as  it  is  called,  is  orcnpi- 
cd  l)y  gentU3nion'M  privato  rnnnsions,  or  country  seat.i, 


400 


ULACKSTOM^  CANAL. 


all  ttdvantnireously  located,  with  fino  court  yards  in 
front,  thickly  planted  uith  shrubbery,  whilo  highly  cul- 
tivated and  beautiful  gardens  adorn  iho  rear,  and  add 
immcnyurably  to  their  coniforts.  The  churinin«]j  resi- 
dences* of  Messrs.  Brown,  Ives,  and  (.jJovernor  Fenner 
arc  entitled  to  narticidar  notice.  It  wan  on  the  present 
domains  oi'  (tovernor  Fenner,  that  Uo^er  Williams 
first  planted  hiujsclf,  and  it  has  so  happened  that  from 
that  day  to  tliis,  that  situation  has  beion«jed  to  a  gov- 
ernor of  IJhode  bland. 

The  Hi.AKSTONr.  ('anal  terminates  at  thif  place.  It 
conunenccs  in  tho  Blaekstonc  river  at  Worcester,  45 
miles  distant,  and  pursues  the  valley  of  tho  river  to 
WoonsoUett  falls  lunir  the  IMassacluisettg  lincj  from 
whence  there  is  an  excavation  to  Providence. 

Steam  Boats  leave  Providence  six  times  a  week  for 
New-York— fare  %6. 

Stages,  also,  leave  ProvidcMicc  three  times  a  week 
for  Norwich  and  Middlolown,  and  daily  (except  Sun- 
days) for  Hartford,  Conn,  arrivinir  at  those  places  at 
evenin<]j.  Fare  to  Norwich,  45  miles,  $3 — to  Middle- 
town  $1 — to  Hartford,  74  miles,  $4.  A  stage  also 
leaves  Providence  twice  a  week  for  New-London, 
Conn,  distant  Cti)  miles,  connected  v/ilh  a  steam  boat 
line  for  New- York.* 


♦  A  rail  road  is  in  progress  from  Providence  to  Ston- 
nington,  Conn.,  which,  when  completed,  will  give  an 
uninterrupted  steam  boat  and  rail  road  communication 
between  Bostorx  and  New- York. 


(',    **• 


rH0M   PHOVinrNL'E  to  NFWI'OnT. 


407 


yards  in 
jhly  cul- 
und  add 
in«jj  rcsi- 
Fenncr 
pri'HiMit 
V'illiams 
mt  from 
I  a  gov- 

lace.  It 
'stcr,  45 
river  to 
} }  from 

vcck  for 

a  week 
pt  Sun- 
aces  at 
IVliddle- 
gc  also 
-london, 
m  boat 


o  Ston- 
give  an 
lication 


I 


] 


« 


FIIOM  PR(>VII)F,NCK  TO  MKVVPOUT. 

Sfa^oB  leave  IVovidencr  daily,  except  Sundays,  nt  9 
A.  M.  reaehiii:,'  l^rinlol  at,  1  I,  and  Newport  nt  4  V.  M. 
Fare  fioiu  FiovuNnn'e  to  F,riHtol,  Ifi  miles,  %{ — from 
Providence  to  Nowport,  30  milrM,  $2yV.\. 

HniSToi.  is  a  pleasant  town,  with  a  poj)nlation  of 
about  ITiflO  inluvbitantH.  'I'lic  village  is  bx-ated  on  the 
rast  shore  of  tlu?  Narni/rnnsct  bay,  aflordinti;  an  excel- 
lent harbor  for  vshcIm  of  the  larj^ent  dimenHiona.  A- 
bout  two  miles  from  the  ferry  in  this  town  an  exten- 
sive mine  of  anthracite  coal  was  opened  a  few  years 
since,  from  w  uieli  very  considrrable  quantities  arc  an- 
nually taken. 

Newport  is  a  large  town,  with  an  extensive  harbor 
which  is  defeniled  by  Forts  Adams  and  Duniplings  at 
its  entrance,  and  by  Fort  Wooleott  on  Goat  Inland,  op- 
posite the  town.  There  is  also  a  small  battery  about 
a  mile  above  the  town,  called  Fort  Green.  I'he  village 
is  about  a  mile  in  length,  and  rises  in  a  gentle  acclivity 
from  the  harbor,  giving  it  a  fine  aj)pearance,  when  ap- 
proached from  the  water.  It  contains  a  state  house, 
theatre,  five  banks,  11  churches,  several  manufactories, 
and  a  population  of  about  8,000. 

Newport  was  possessed  by  the  British  for  a  considera- 
ble time  during  the  revolutionary  war.  In  1778,  un- 
der an  expectation  of  aid  from  the  French  fleet,  which 
had  sailed  into  the  harbor,  an  American  force,  of  about 
10,000  strong,  commanded  by  Gen.  Sullivan,  and  aided 
by  Gen.  Lafayette,  made  preparations  for  attacking 
the  place.    On  the  approach  of  the  Americans,  the 

kk2 


!i,  i 


403 


KEWPOUT. 


British  abaadoned  their  outposts  and  retreated  to  their 
work.^  within  the  town.  These  posts  were  immediate- 
ly po33;?s32..l  by  the  Americans  ;  and  the  moat  flatter- 
ing prospects  existed,  that  the  allied  forces  would  bo 
enabled  to  capture  the  entire  British  army.  But  the 
French  ad;niral,  vvlio  had  bcon  a  military  oHicor,  and 
who,  by  a  previous  arrangement,  was  to  superintend  a 
pan  ')f  the  land  as  well  as  naval  operations,  took  of- 
fennc  at  some  of  the  mavcmcnts  of  Gen.  Sullivan,  and 
refused  a  co-operation.  Wliile  an  attempt  at  :concil- 
iation  was  r^oing  forward,  a  British  fleet  suddenly  ap- 
peared otT Newport,  which  induced  the  French  admiral, 
as  a  precautionary  measure,  to  sail  out  of  the  harbor. 
A  severe  storm  coming  on,  prevented  a  naval  engage- 
ment ;.  and  both  fleets,  being  loft  in  a  shattered  condi- 
tion, at  the  close  of  the  tempest,  retired — the  British  to 
New- York,  and  the  French  to  Newport.  During  this 
lime,  Gun.  Sullivan  had  laid  siege  to  the  town  ;  and 
though  interrupted  by  the  storm,  in  which  his  ,-rmy 
sufl'-red  considerably,  he  had  succeeded  in  annoying  tho 
enemy,  and  keeping  him  within  the  lines  of  the  village. 
On  the  return  of  the  French  fleet,  another  eflbrt  was 
made  to  induce  the  admiral  to  co-operate  with  tho 
Americans.  But  his  ships  had  received  so  much  injury 
in  the  gale,  that  he  considered  it  necessary  to  repair  to 
Boston,  pursuant  to  previous  instructions  tmm  his  gov- 
ernment. Under  these  circumstances,  Sullivan  de- 
termined on  raising  the  sicfrc,  A  retreat  was  cflected 
in  the  night.  But  on  its  being  discovered  the  next 
morning,  the  Americans  were  pursued  by  the  British 
to  Q,uakcr  Hill,  where  a  sharp  contest  ensued,  which 


boa 


I. 


EINO  PHILIP. 


409 


resulted  in  the  loss  of  between  2  and  300  of  each  army, 
Sullivan  afterwards  retreated  to  Massachusetts,  with 
little  or  no  interruption  ;  and  his  retreat  wns  consider- 
ed fortunate,  as  a  British  re-inforccment,  which  arrived 
at  Newport  Ihu  day  after,  would  have  been  enabled  ef- 
fectually to  cut  him  olffrojn  the  main  l.uid. 

During  the  possession  ofiVcwpoitby  the  British,  a 
bold  party  of  men  under  Col.  Barton,  landed  from  a 
boat  in  the  niiiht,  proceeded  to  the  enemy's  head  quar- 
ters, captured  Gen.  Prcscott,  and  conveyed  him  away 
before  they  coukl  be  prevented  by  the  land  or  naval 
forces  then  in  the  harbor. 

From  its  elegant  and  healthy  situation,  its  proximity 
to  the  ocean,  and  the  sahibiity  of  its  chmate,  Newport, 
for  several  yearc,  has  been  a  place  of  considerable  re- 
sort in  the  summer  months.  AVerc  there  a  direct  com- 
munication from  this  place,  by  stage,  or  steam-boat,  to 
New-London,  Hartford  or  New-Haven,  Conn,  it  would 
add  much  to  tlie  convenience  of  tourists.  But,  unfor- 
tunately, for  this  purpose,  the  steam-boats  which  leave 
Providence  and  Newport  five  or  six  times  a  week  for 
New-York,  do  not  touch  at  any  of  the  Connecticut 
ports;  and,  in  order  to  reaeli  New-London  by  stage, 
it  is  necessary  to  return  to  Providence.  Those  who 
have  travelled  down  by  land,  gcneraHy  return  by  water. 

Passing  Fort  Green,  a  prospect  is  soon  obtained  of 
JSIount  Hope,  a  few  miles  to  the  northwest.  It  was  the 
former  residence  of 

King  Philip,  of  the  Narraganset  tribe  of  Indians, 
and  was  also  the  place  of  his  death.  The  well  known 
energy  and  enterprise  of  his  character  made  him  an 
object  of  great  jealousy  and  apprehension,  and  he  was 


410 


KINO  PIIII.IP. 


mv " 


accused  of  always  cherishing  a  secret  and  implacablo 
hostihty  towards  tho  ICnghsh.  A  rcuogado  Indian 
snhjcct  had  heightened  this  jeah^nsy,  by  rcveahng  to 
tho  whites  the  pret.«Mided  hostile  projects  of  Philip. 
This  informer  was  sliortly  afterwards  found  murdered 
in  a  pond,  havinsr  falh  n  a  victim  to  the  vengeance  of 
his  triho.  Three  Indians,  one  of  whom  was  a  friend 
and  counsellor  of  Philip,  were  seized  by  the  whites,  tri- 
ed, and  on  rather  slight  testimony  exeeutcd.  This  out- 
raged the  pride  and  exasperated  the  passions  of  Philip, 
and  a  long  and  bloody  war  was  the  consequence.  Tho 
whites  possessing  more  military  skill,  were  generally 
victorious,  and  Philip  was  driven  from  his  paternal  do- 
mains and  compelled  to  take  refuge  in  the  depths  of  for- 
ests or  the  glooms  and  thickets  of  swamps.  At  one 
time  he  was  driven,  with  a  band  of  followers,  into  the 
great  swamp  of  Pocassct  Neck,  where  the  English  for- 
ces did  not  dare  to  pursue  him,  fearing  to  venture  into 
these  dark  and  frightful  recesses.  They  therefore  in- 
vested the  (Mitrance  into  the  neck,  and  began  to  build  a 
fort,  "with  tho  intention  of  starving  out  the  foe  j  but 
Philip  and  his  companions,  leaving  their  women  and 
children  behind,  wafteil  themselves  on  a  raft  over  an 
arm  of  the  pea,  in  the  dead  of  night,  and  escaped  away 
to  the  westward,  kindling  the  flames  of  war  among  the 
tribes  of  Massachusetts  and  the  Nipmuck  country,  and 
threatening  tho  colony  of  Conned  ient. 

One  of  the  most  faithful  friends  that  Philip  had  in  the 
time  of  his  adversity,  was  Canonchet,  chief  sachem  of 
all  the  Narragansets.  Though  he  had  forborne  to  take 
an  active  part  in  this  hopeless  war,  yet  he  received 
Philip  and  his  shattered  forces  with  open  arms,  and 


i»»i 


i,0 


niso  rmijp. 


411 


cs,  tri- 


gave  him  the  most  generous  countenance  and  support. 
This  at  once  drew  on  Canonchet  the  hostiUty  of  th« 
Enghsh  ;  and  it  wag  determined  to  strike  a  single  blow 
that  should  involve  both  the  sachems  in  a  common  ruin. 
A  great  force  was  therefore  irathercd  to/Ercther  from  Mas- 
eachnscttg,  Plymouth  and  Connecticut,  and  sent  into 
the  Narrairanset  country,  in  the  depth  of  winter,  when 
the  awamjiy  being  i'rozon  and  leaflesy,  no  longer  afford- 
ed impenetrable  fortresses  to  the  Indians.  Apprehen- 
sive of  attack,  Canonchet  had  sheltered  the  greater  part 
of  his  stores,  tojjcther  with  the  old,  the  infirm,  the  wo- 
men and  children  of  his  tribe,  in  a  strong  fortress,  where 
ho  and  Philip  had  like -vise  drawn  up  the  (lower  of  their 
forces.  This  fortress,  dec;iied  by  the  Indians  impreg- 
nable, was  situated  upon  a  rising  mound,  or  kind  of  Isl- 
and, of  five  or  six  acres,  in  the  middle  of  a  swamp,  con- 
structed with  a  judgment  and  skill  vastly  superior  to  the 
usual  fortifications  of  the  Indians  ;  and  indicative  of  tho 
martial  genius  of  these  two  chieftains. 

Guided  by  a  renegado  Indian,  the  English  penetrat- 
ed, through  December  snows,  to  this  strong  hold,  and 
came  upon  tho  garrison  by  surprise.  The  fight  was 
fierce  and  tumultuous.  The  assailants  were  repulsed 
in  their  first  attack  ;  and  several  of  their  bravest  ofiicera 
vverc  shot  down  in  the  act  of  storming  the  fortress, 
sword  in  hand.  The  assault  was  renewed  with  greater 
success  ;  a  lodgment  was  cfibcted  ;  the  Indians  were 
driven  from  one  hold  to  anot'  ;  they  disputed  their 
ground  inch  by  inch,  fighting  with  the  fury  of  despair  ; 
most  of  their  veterans  were  cut  to  pieces,  and  after  a 
long  and  bloody  battle,  Philip  and  Canonchet,  with  a 


. "";  iijfltii.iMiM 


■i^'.inw.ynHiwwiiui 


4t^ 


WINii    IMIMir 


,  i\ 


.V 


;     ; 


Imndfnl  of  P\\rvivi»vu  wnirior?",  rotntUoil  Ironi  \\\o  Coil 
a?ul  plnnaotl  into  (l»o  «loplhH  ol'  Iho  snnoniulinir  forcMt. 
Tho  virtoiP  siM  lire  (o  tho  >vii>\vinn!<  uml  Hw  jort  ;  the 
Avholo  AVMs  POOH  \n  n  I»Ii\7,o  ;  ninl  mnnv  ol'  tlir  ol<i  in»'n, 
tho  >votnon  and  tho  children  )>(  i  «h(Ml  in  \\\r  Wnwwf*. 
Tins  li\pt  inlnnnnn  o»itriV'.<'  oviMonnu'  lh(»  Mtoirinn*  ollht' 
Havnir«\  ri\<'  n<MjLihI>orinj>  woo^Im  n^Monnd^Ml  w\{\\  \\\o 
yoUp  ot*  rn^p  and  «IoM|>i\n,  ntltMrd  l»y  tho  Inoilivownv- 
viois,  as  thov  l>rl\old  wilh  iini>\nph  oriwMwl,  iUo  dosola- 


d  1 


tion  ol  tluMv  dwollnijLvs,  and  hiMwd  (ho  njiioni;,n»jr  nit\p  ol 


1  Ih 


thf'iv  wivos  and  ollHpvn\t 


'Vh(>  bin-jnni^  ol'  llu'  wijii;- 


«.van\s. 


>rii 


iwn  a  ront(Mn|>orary  wrilor,  "iho  HhiicKn  n\u\ 
hildrrn,  and  tho  vollii]ir  ol'tho 


onop  ol  WW  wonirn  and  « 


.i1|;m'1 


\\\^  P('on« 


M 


uarviovp,  (^xlnhitcMl  a  inopt  lioniMc  ;. 

po  that  it  pratly  movod  ponio  oft  ho  PohUtMH, 

Thodol'oat  oltho  INiwratjansot  l\ntn^PP,  and  tlir  doalli 
of  C/"anoni'l\ot,  won^  fatal  l>h»\V!^  to  tlio  fovtnnop  «»f  Kinij 
rhiiij>.  Wo  ;nado  an  iticMlootni*!  att«Mnpt  to  laipc^  a  h(\-\d 
of  war,  hy  ptnrinf^i  tip  tho  i\loha>vUp  to  tako  np  aims  ; 
but  thonoh  possoppotl  of  th<^  nalivo  Ifdrnts  o['  a  ptalop- 
inan,  hip  avtP  woiv  o»>unt(M'aolod  hy  Iho  snpoiior  nrtp  of 
his  onh^htonod  cnonnos,  ami  th(^  tonov  oi'  thoir  wavhKo 
skill  h<\o;an  tv>  pnhdnc  tlio  rosolntion  of  tho  \nM<dihoriM^ 
(rihop. 

AVith  a  fJv^aiity  hand  of  l"i)llo\vois,  N\ho  ptill  i<  ninincMl 
truo  lo  Ifimh^sppvato  f«>rt\nw\p,  tho  inihappy  TMiilip  wan- 
doix"*!!  hark  lo  tho  virinity  of  Mo\n»t  ll*>p(\  llu'  anoionl 
d\vollin.«j  of  hip  tatliovp.  Uovo  ho  Inikni  ah«nU  liko  a 
spcotro,  ntnonjLi  tlir  d(  polatod  poonos  of  fonnor  powor 
and  prop]>rvity.  now  Viorort  o(  hon\o  and  fnon<lp.  r.von 
in  ihi:?  last  rol\ijQO  of  dospovation  and  doppair,  a  snllrn 
grandonr  sornis  to  gathov  round  his  nioniory.     P^Moat- 


id,  h 

niiliii 

aptor 

hiHt 

aua 

ono  (^ 

Tho 
vonff 
>vhi 
Iho 
and 
thoy 
paw 
a  i«>H| 
and 
thn)i 
tion. 
A 
ly  pr 
an«lp 
Iho  1 


rn()i>i  riKiviDENcr,  rn  nkiv-i.ondon. 


411 


tllP   (oil 

lu;  foi»<H(. 

I"m|(   ;     (|)<> 

olfl  mm, 
'  tlninop. 
Mn  o('llii< 

Willi    Ihr 

ivo  wm- 
'  (lofjuln- 
T  vv'wH  ol" 
lli(»  xvijr- 
irku  mill 
ijj:  oft  ho 

\\o  {\rn\h 

'  n  \u\u\ 
>  armsi ; 

stalos- 
r  nils  of 
xvnrliKo 


ii»orin,tJ 


Minincd 
ip  wnn- 

I  lilvi^  iv 

I  "von 

sulirn 

["♦oronl. 


oil,  ImiI  not  ilinninyoil — cmhsIioiI  to  tlio  onrth,  hnl  not,  hii- 
iiiiliutoil,  Ih)  pooiiiod  to  ^ low  iiinro  hniifjlity  IioiumiIIi  (Hh- 
iiHlor,  iiiid  to  roooivo  a  lioroo  paliMriirtioii  in  ilnnnin^  tlio 
IiihI  ilio^fl  ol'  liiltoiiioHfii.     Tlio  voiy  idoii  ol  HiiluiiiwHion 
auaUon«Ml  llio  liny  of  Philip,  and  ho  ovon  Finioto  lo  doatli 
olio  ofhiH  lollowiMR  who  propoHod  nn  o\pf«di«Mit  ofpnaro. 
'I'ho  hrolhoi-  ol'llio  violiin  niado  liiM  oBcnpo,  mid,  in  ro- 
von^o,  hotinyrd  Iho  rolronf  olliip  ohiolllmn.      A  hody  ol' 
wliiio  moil  mid  Indiana  woio  immodialoly  <lof<pafrho«l  to 
Iho  Nwninp  wiion»  Tjiilip  lay  oroiu-liod,  f;liirin|[r  with  fury 
and  dospnir.     iloloro  ho  was  awmo  of  tlioir  npproarh, 
thoy  had  ho^jan  to  nmionnd  him.     In  a  littlo  whiln  ho 
^aw  Hvo  ofhifl  linstiopt  lollowiMP  laid  doacl  at  his  loot ; 
a  rosiHtano(5  wns  vain  ;  ho  inpliod  forth  IVom  liio  oovort, 
and  mado  a  hoadlong  attoin[)t  at  0Bca[)0,  hut  woh  shot 
thionyh  tho  hourt  hy  a  ronogado  Indian  ol'  his  own  na- 
tion. 

An»M-  loaviiijrr'orl  ({it(mi,  tho  ftoam-hoat  fluo<iog8ivo- 
ly  pasROfl  I'rndonoo,  Tationoo,  llopo  ami  Oowpair  isl- 
ands, and  Trovidonoo  is  roaolied  in  f^oingSO  niilos  from 
tho  northoni  oxtrcmity  of  tho  lattor. 

FIIOINT  rilOVll^KNCR  TO  NKW-LDNDON, 

.'it?  luilea. 

A  ela^o  loavod  rrovidiMirn  twico  or  throo  timos  n 
wrok  in  tho  morning;,  paflsinp;  through  ('ontrnvillo, 
Wofit  Orconwich,  J  lopkinton,  Htonington  and  iVTyfltir, 
and  vcaclios  New-London  at  ovoninp. 

Cbntrrvilik,  11  milop  from  Providonce,  is  a  mnn 
nfacturing  viiln^o,  containing  two  cotton  factoricfl,  «»'v- 
erai  weaving  ahopH,  and  a  number  of  wmall  houHow. 

Wkst  Grkknwich,  2  mil  on. 


I !  11 ' 


"> '  H 


I  ii  ■ 


-4 


•n 


414 


RTONINGTON. 


HopKiNTON,  15  miles. 

Stonington,  1 1  miles.  The  village  is  incorporated ; 
contains  a  U.  S.  arsenal,  several  factories,  a  bank,  an 
academy,  two  churches,  and  a  population  of  more  than 
3000.  It  has  a  good  harbor,  and  is  a  place  of  consid- 
erable trade. 

The  settlement  of  the  place  commenced  as  early  as 
1649.  It  had  previously  been  a  part  of  the  territory  of 
the  Pequots,  a  powerfnl  and  warlike  tribe  of  Indians. 
The  early  English  settlers,  in  different  parts  of  Connec- 
ticut, had  been  frequently  annoyed  by  this  tribe  ;  and, 
in  1637,  it  became  necessary  to  take  efficieat  steps  for 
their  expulsion.  An  expedition  was  entrusted  to  Capt. 
Mason  ;  who,  with  about  300  colonists  raised  in  Con- 
necticut and  Massachusetts,  and  200  Mohegan  and 
Narraganset  Indians,  encamped  on  the  night  of  the 
26th  of  May  at  a  place  called  Porter's  rocks,  a  short 
distance  from  the  present  village  of  Stonington,  and 
about  three  miles  from  one  of  the  principal  forts  of  the 
Pequots,  which  was  situated  on  the  summit  of  a  hill. 
Two  hours  before  day  the  little  army  was  in  motion  ; 
and  on  approaching  the  fort,  it  was  found  that  the  en- 
emy, about  700  strong,  were  in  a  profound  sleep,  with- 
out their  usual  watch,  having  spent  the  previous  night 
in  revelry  and  drunkenness.  On  a  close  approxima- 
tion of  Mason's  men,  a  dog  within  the  fort  commenced 
barking,  which  awakened  one  of  the  Pequots ;  who, 
perceiving  the  approach  of  the  assailants,  aroused  his 
comrades  from  their  slumbers.  Mason  immediately 
advanced,  and  through  the  apertures  of  the  palisades 
poured  in  a  fire,  and  then  rushed  in  through  a  part  of 
the  fort  slightly  barricaded.  Notwithstanding  their  con- 


jt\  i.,Cv.(\ 


NEW-LONDON. 


415 


orated ; 
ink,  an 
ire  than 
consid- 

;arly  as 
itory  of 
ndiana. 
'onnec- 
t ;  and, 
epg  for 
3  Capt. 
n  Con- 
m  and 

of  the 
a  short 
n,  and 

of  the 
'  a  hill, 
otion ; 
he  en- 
,  with- 

night 
)xima- 
lenced 

who, 
^d  his 
liately 
isades 
>art  of 
r  con- 


fusion, the  Pequots  defended  themselves  with  bravery ; 
but  having  but  few  other  weapons  than  bows  and  ar- 
rows, they  were  unable  to  withstand  the  assailants, 
who  cut  them  down  without  mercy  with  their  s words 
and  bayonets.  To  render  the  victory  complete,  Ma- 
son ordered  their  wigwams  to  be  fired.  The  blaze 
soon  spread  in  all  directions,  compelling  the  besieged 
to  ascend  the  pallisades  ;  from  whence  more  than  one 
hundred  were  shot  down  by  the  assailants  who  had 
then  surrounded  the  fort.  Others,  attempting  to  break 
through  the  lines  of  the  troops,  were  either  shot  or  cut 
di  wn,  and  several  perished  in  the  flames.  The  scene 
continued  about  an  hour,  when  it  was  found  that  sev- 
enty wigwams  had  been  destroyed,  and  that  the  ground 
was  strewed  with  the  bodies  of  between  five  and  six 
hundred  of  the  slain.  Mason's  loss  was  only  two  men 
killed  and  sixteen  wounded. 

In  August,  1814,  a  bombardment  of  Stonington  took 
place  from  a  British  74,  a  frigate,  a  sloop  of  war  and  an 
armed  brig  ;  but  with  the  aid  of  two  18  pounders  and 
a  4  pounder,  the  inhabitants  defended  the  place,  pre- 
vented the  landing  of  troops  from  barges,  and  finally 
compelled  the  enemy  to  haul  off,  with  his  brig  consid- 
erably shattered. 

NEW-LONDON 

Is  17  miles  from  Stonington,  and  is  a  city  and  port  of 
entry.  It  has  the  best  harbor  in  Connecticut,  and  is 
defended  by  Forts  Trumbull  and  Griswold.  The  city 
is  on  the  west  bank  of  the  Thames,  within  3  miles  of 
its  mouth,  and  contains  a  court  house,  two  banks,  five 
churches,  and  a  population  of  between  3  and  4000. 


1 


11 


m 


:»*-, 


416 


NEW-LONDON. 


Many  of  the  houees  on  the  heights,  back  of  the  town, 
and  a  few  in  the  city,  are  handsome  ;  but  the  general 
appearance  of  the  place  is  uninteresting. 

New-London,  like  Stonington,  was  once  within  the 
territory  of  the  Pequot  Indians,  and  was  settled  at  the 
same  time.  About  4  miles  east  of  the  c'lir.  on  what  is 
called  Frr*  Hill,  this  nation  had  their  strongest  fortress. 
But  slight  remains  of  it,  however,  are  now  to  be  seen. 

In  September,  1781,  after  the  treason  of  Arnold,  an 
expedition  was  entrusted  to  his  care  against  New-Lon- 
don. A  strong  detachment  landed  on  both  sides  of  the 
harbor  at  the  mouth  of  the  river.  Arnold,  who  com- 
manded in  person  the  troops  which  landed  on  the  west 
side,  immediately  advanced  against  Fort  Trumbull,  an 
adjoining  redoubt,  and  New-London.  These  posts  be- 
ing untenable,  were  abandoned  on  his  approach.  Col. 
Eyere,  who  commanded  the  detachment  which  landed 
on  the  eastern  side,  proceeded  to  storm  Fort  Griswold, 
situate  on  Groton  Hill.  It  was  occupied  by  a  garrison 
of  160  men,  commanded  by  Col.  Ledyard,  a  part  of 
whom  had  just  evacuated  the  works  on  the  opposite 
side  of  the  river.  Ledyard  defended  the  fort  until  the 
British  succeeded  in  entering  the  embrasures  with 
charged  bayonets.  Further  resistance  being  useless, 
Ledyard  surrendered  his  sword  to  the  British  colonel  ; 
who,  in  defiance  of  every  rule  of  civilized  warfare, 
plunged  it  into  the  bosom  of  the  conquered  officer,  and 
continued  the  carnage  until  the  greater  part  of  the  gar- 
rison was  destroyed.  Eyere,  however,  lost  his  own  life 
in  the  affair,  and  200  of  his  men  were  either  killed  or 
wounded.  New-London  was,  at  the  same  time,  set  on 
fire  by  the  direction  of  Arnold,  and  most  of  its  build- 


FROM  new-London  to  nouwich. 


417 


ings  and  all  the  public  stores  deposited  in  the  place 
consumed  in  the  conflagration. 

Forts  Griswold  and  Trumbull  are  still  in  tolerable 
preservation  ;  and  were  garrisoned  by  the  government 
during  the  late  war  with  Great  Britain. 

A  steam-boat  leaves  P^ew-London  on  the  arrival  of 
the  Boston  stage,  which  is  generally  at  7  P.  M.  and 
reaches  New- York  early  the  next  morning.  Leaves 
New- York  for  New-London  three  times  a  week,  and 
continues  on  her  trip  from  Nev/-London,  up  the  Thames 
river  to  Norwich,  14  miles  distant. 

Stages  also  leave  New-London  on  Tuesday,  Thurs- 
day and  Saturday  at  8  A.  M.  and  arrive  at  Hartford  at  5 
P.  M.  passing  through  Waterford,  Montville,  Salem, 
Colchester,  Hebron,  Marlborough,  Glastenbury  and 
East  Hartibrd.  Distance  47  miles — fare  $2.  This  is 
the  most  direct  route  ;  but  the  traveller  will  find  it  inter- 
esting to  take  a  trip  up  the  Thames  to  Norwich  ;  from 
whence  a  conveyance  may  be  had  to  Hartford,  as  no- 
ticed hereafter. 

FROM  NEW-LONDON  TO  NORWICH, 
hy  St  earn- Boat, 

Previous  to  the  settlement  of  New-London,  in  1648, 
the  Thames  was  called  the  Pequot  river  ;  but  at  that 
period  it  received  its  present  name.  It  rises  in  the 
Mcshapaug  pond  in  Union,  3  miles  N.  E.  of  Hartford, 
passes  into  Massachusetts,  re-enters  Connecticut,  and 
pursues  a  southerly  course  till  it  falls  into  Long  Island 
Sound.  It  is  navigable  for  large  vessels  no  farther  than 
Norwich.  During  the  late  war,  while  New-London 
was  blockaded,  the  U,  S.  ships  Macedonian,  United 


418 


NORWICH. 


,it 


'iM 


States  and  Hornet,  were  moored  in  a  cove  above  Mas- 
eapeaug  Point,  and  a  email  battery  erected  for  their 
protection. 

M OHEGAN  is  on  the  west  bank  of  the  Thames,  four 
miles  south  of  Norwich,  and  is  the  residence  of  about 
300  Mohegan  Indians,  the  only  remnant  of  that  onco 
powerful  tribe,  who  formerly  owned  this  section  of 
country.  On  Hortori's  HiU,  not  far  from  this  place,  the 
lines  of  an  old  Indian  Fort  can  still  be  traced. 

Trading  Cove,  about  1  mile  farther,  is  a  bay  extend- 
ing a  short  distance  into  what  was  once  the  Indian 
country,  and  derived  its  name  from  the  traffic  which 
was  here  carried  on  between  the  colonists  and  the  Mo- 
hegans.  The  residence  of  Uncas,  their  sachem,  and 
early  friend  of  the  whites,  was  near  this  cove,  now  the 
centre  of  the  Indian  resrvation. 

NORWICH 
Is  an  incorporated  city.    It  contains  three  compact 
settlements  ;  of  which  Chelsea  Landing,  situate  at  the 
point  of  land  between  the  Shetuckct.  and  Yantic  rivers, 
is  the  principal.    Its  location  is  peculiarly  romantic ; 
and  it  is  a  place  of  much  enterprise  and  business. 
What  is  called  the  Town  is  2  miles  northwest  of  Chel- 
sea, containing  the  coirrt  house  and  some  other  public 
buildings  ;  and  the  third  settlement  is  Bean  Hill,  in  the 
western  part  of  Norwich.     The  city  contains  a  bank,  4 
or  5  churches,  and  several  manufacturing  establish- 
ments.   The  Yantic  Falls,  1  mile  from  Chelsea,  are 
handsome,  and  afford  facilities  for  mills  and  manufac- 
tories.   From  a  rock  70  or  80  feet  in  height,  which 
overhangs  the  stream,  tradition  says  a  number  of  Nar- 


NORWICH, 


419 


|e  Mas- 
)r  their 

58,  four 

|f  about 

It  onco 

tion  of 

fee,  the 


ragansRlH  once  precipitated  themselves  when  pursued 
by  the  Mohegans. 

Settlements  were  commenced  at  Norwich  as  early 
as  1660.  A  partof  the  l.iwn  was  first  conveyed  to  Thom- 
as LcfHngwell,  a  colonial  militia  officer,  by  the  sachem 
Uncas,  in  consideration  of  services  rendered  him  in  a 
war  with  a  neighboring  trib(!.  A  fort  belona^inir  to  Un- 
cas, on  the  Pcquot  river,  was  closely  besieged  by  the 
Narragansets  ;  and  the  provisions  being  nearly  ex- 
pended, it  was  reduced  to  the  last  extremely.  In  this 
situation,  Uncas  contrived  to  notify  the  t^nglish  at  Say- 
brook  fort  of  his  distressed  condition.  Leffingwell,  who 
commanded  that  fort,  immediately  conveyed  to  the  be- 
sieged a  supply  of  provisions  ;  which  being  soon  known 
to  the  assailants,  they  were  induced  to  raise  the  siege. 
For  this  generous  condtict  of  Leffingwell,  Uncas  con- 
veyed to  him  the  land  about  the  fort,  and  afterwards 
gave  him  a  formal  deed  of  a  township,  embracing  most 
of  the  present  town  of  Norwich. 

On  an  elevated  bank  north  of  what  is  called  the  Cove^ 
and  near  the  Y  antic  falls,  is  the  burying  ground  of  the 
royal  family  of  the  Mohegans,  commonly  called  "  the 
burying  ground  of  the  Uncases."  Many  of  their  graves 
are  still  designated  by  coarse  stones,  on  some  of  which 
are  English  inscriptions.  Uncas  was  buried  here  and 
many  of  his  descendants  ;  but  his  family  is  now  nearly 
extinct.  There  are  one  or  two  living  who  claim  a  kin- 
dred, but  who  have  very  little  of  the  magnanimity  or 
valor  for  which  he  was  so  conspicuous. 

The  Plain  near  the  burying  ground  was  the  summer 
residence  of  the  Mohegans,  and  is  a  most  delightful 
spot, 

ll2 


420 


rnoM  NORWitn  to  ii artiorp. 


FROM  NORWICH  TO  HARTFORIX 
Stages  leave  Norwich  in  the  morninp,  and  arrive  at 
Hartford  at  8  P.  M.     Distance  39  miles— fare  $2,50. 
The  intermediate  distances  and  places  are  as  follows  : 


J^iles. 

Bozrah, 5 

Lebanon, 4 

Coventry, 12 


Miles. 

Bolton, 4 

East  Hartford, 13 

Hartford, 1 


East  Hartford  is  located  on  the  enst  bank  of  the 
Connecticut  river,  directly  opposite  Hartford,  with 
which  it  is  connected  by  an  elegant  bridge,  which,  in- 
cluding the  cause-way,  is  nearly  a  mile  long.  The  vil- 
lage contains  4  churches,  several  manufacturing  estab- 
lishments, and  between  2  and  3000  inhabitants. 

HARTFORD. 

A  settlement  was  commenced  by  the  English  at  this 
place  in  1634.  The  Dutch,  from  New-Netherlands, 
had  previously  established  a  trading  house  and  port  at 
the  place,  for  the  purpose  of  carrying  on  a  commerce 
with  the  Indians,  and  were  disposed  to  prevent  the 
English  from  participating  in  the  traffic.  But  finding 
that  this  could  not  be  effected,  without  a  bloody  con- 
test, they  abandoned  the  design. 

The  charter  which  was  originally  granted  to  the  col- 
onists of  Connecticut,  having  been  demanded  by  the 
English  monarch  in  1686,  through  the  medium  of  an 
agent,  it  was  reluctantly  surrendered  by  the  colonial 
legislature.  This  took  place  in  an  evening ;  and  while 
it  remained  on  a  table  in  a  room  where  an  agent  and 
several  British  officers  had  assembled,  the  windows  be- 
ing open,  on  a  preconcerted  signal,  the  candles  were 


HARTFUUD. 


421 


Tivc  at 

$2,50. 

|1I0W8  : 

Miles. 
4 

..    13 
..      1 

of  the 
,  with 
ch,  in- 
he  vil- 
estab- 


extinguished  y  persons  in  the  Btrrrt,  and  the  charter 
seized  by  a  citizen  in  the  room,  and  convcyfd  to  a  tire  ; 
in  the  cavity  of  which  it  remained  for  several  vearH. 
This  tre*.  is  still  standing  ;  and  is  known  hy  the  name 
of  the  Charter  Oak.  It  ia  located  in  the  lower  part  of 
the  town,  in  the  street  running  east  froin  the  south 
church,  and  is  directly  in  front  of  the  anriont  mansion 
of  the  Wyllis  family.  The  charter  is  still  preserved  in 
the  office  of  the  secretary  of  state. 

Hartford  is  now  the  largest  city  in  the  state.  It  is 
located  on  the  west  bank  of  the  Connecticut  river,  at 
the  head  of  sloop  navigation,  and  50  miles  from  its 
mouth.  The  city  is  handsomely  laid  out,  and  contains 
a  number  of  elegant  buildings  and  private  residences. 
Among  its  public  puddings,  are  a  state  house,  arsenal, 
3  banks,  a  museum,  an  academy,  a  college,  an  asylum 
for  the  deaf  and  dumb,  an  asylum  for  the  insane,  and 
9  churches.     Population  about  10,000. 

Washington  College  is  in  Main-street,  in  the  south 
part  of  the  city.  It  was  opened  in  1824,  and  consists  of 
two  edifices  ;  one  of  which  is  150  feet  long  and  4  sto- 
ries high,  and  contains  the  rooms  of  the  students.  In 
the  other  is  the  chapel,  recitation  rooms  and  library. 

The  Deaf  and  Dumb  Asylnm  is  on  Tower  Hill,  one 
mile  west  of  the  city  ;  and  was  the  first  institution  of 
the  kind  established  in  the  United  States.  The  perma- 
nent fund  of  the  institution,  including  a  donation  of  land 
by  Congress,  amounts  to  $215,539,  of  which  sum  $80,- 
000  are  available.  The  number  of  pupils  is  generally 
about  70,  many  of  whom  are  supported  by  public  and 
private  charities. 


422 


HARTFORD. 


A  visit  to  the  institution  is  unusually  interesting. 
The  utmost  order  and  decorum  prevail ;  and  the  stran- 
ger will  be  delighted  with  the  means  here  employed  for 
enlightening  and  cultivating  the  minds  of  an  unfortu- 
nate class  of  the  community  ;  and  with  the  rapid  im- 
provement they  make,  not  only  in  writing,  but  in  a 
study  of  many  of  the  sciences.  Every  thing  is  commu- 
nicated by  means  of  signs.  After  being  taught  the 
mode  of  conveying  the  most  necessary  ideas,  they  pro- 
ceed to  study  the  alphabet  employed  at  the  institution  ; 
then  the  names  of  visible  objects,  and  the  order  of  the 
letters  used  in  designating  them  ;  and  finally  a  knowl- 
edge of  absent  objects  and  abstract  ideas,  by  means  of 
ingenious  devices  and  definitions.  Many  soon  attain 
a  knowledge  of  writing  correctly  ;  and  some  are  ena- 
bled to  communicate  their  ideas  in  chaste  and  even  el- 
egant language. 

The  ^eto  Exchange  Buildings^  on  the  corner  of  Main 
and  State  streets,  are  deserving  of  notice,  as  a  specimen 
of  good  taste,  and  as  ornamental  to  the  city. 

The  J^eiv  City  Hall  is  an  elegant  structure,  creditable 
to  the  taste  and  munificence  of  the  inhabitants. 

The  ^eio  Episcopal  Church,  and  the  High  School  in 
Washington-street,  occupy  a  prominent  place.  The 
latter  is  deUghtfully  situated  on  a  commanding  emi- 
nence, and  ranks  in  spaciousness  and  beauty  with  the 
most  favored  establishments  of  the  kind  in  other  cities. 
The  Episcopal  Church  is  a  monument  of  Uberal  pubhc 
spirit  guided  by  good  taste,  and  is  surpassed  in  design 
and  execution  by  few,  if  any  similar  buildings  in  our 
countrv. 


Hartford. 


423 


The  Hospital  for  the  Insane^  is  a  stone  building,  1 50 
feet  long  and  50  wide,  4  stories  high,  with  wings  of  3 
stories.    It  is  located  a  little  south  of  the  city. 

Hartford  has  undergone  a  surprising  change  within 
a  few  years.  Its  streets  have  been  greatly  improved  ; 
many  of  its  old  buildings  have  given  place  to  new  and 
elegant  dwellings,  and  the  whole  appearance  of  the  city 
exhibits  an  unusual  degree  of  enterprise  and  prosperity. 

STEAM  BOATS. 
A  steam  boat  leaves  Hartford  for  New- York  daily  at 
11  A.  M.  reaching  New- York  the  next  morning ;  and 
leaves  New- York  daily  at  4  P.  M.  reaching  Hartford 
the  next  day  at  noon — fare  $3,50. 

STAGES. 

To  J^etC'Haven  and  JSTeio-York.—A  stage  leaves  Hart- 
ford every  morning,  (Sundays  excepted)  which  reaches 
New-Haven  at  noon,  and  New- York  the  next  morn- 
ing. Fare  to  New-Haven,  40  miles,  $2  ;  to  New- York, 
123  miles,  $3,50. 

To  Boston. — A  stage  leaves  on  Monday,  Wednesday 
and  Friday,  at  12  M.  and  reaches  Boston  at  2  P.  M. 
the  next  day.    Distance,  136  miles — fare  $5,00. 

To  Litchjieldf  Ct. — A  stage  leaves  Hartford  daily  at 
8  A.  M.  and  arrives  at  Litchfield  at  3  P.  M. — Distance 
30  miles,  fare  $2. 

2  >  Hanover^  *N*.  H.  {iq)  Connecticut  river.) — A  stage 
leave?  Hartford  daily,  (except  Sundays)  arrives  at 
Brattl  ^borough,  Vt.  the  fust  day,  and  Hanover,  N.  H. 
tht  second — passing  through  Windsor,  Ct.  Springfield, 
Northampton,  Deerfield,  and  Greenfield,  Mass.  Brat- 
tleborough  a. id  Westminster,  Vt.  Walpole  and  Charles- 


434 


FROM   HARTFORD  TO  HKW-llAVEN. 


7»:,  i   ' 


town,  N.  H.  Windsor  and  Hartford,  Vt.  to  Hanover. 
[Tliia  line  intersects  the  daily  stage  tor  Boston  at 
Northampt(tn,  and  the  daily  stage  for  Saratoga  Springs 
at  Charlestown.j  Distance  from  Hartford  to  Hanover, 
152  miles— fare  $7,25. 

To  »\*cw- London. — A  stage  leaves  Hartford  on  Mon- 
day, Wednesday  and  Friday,  at  7  A.  M.  and  reaches 
New-London  at  5  P.  M. — Distance  47  riiiles — fare  $2. 

To  Albany. — A  stage  leaves  Hartford  and  Albany  ev- 
ery morning  (Sunday  excepted)  at  2,  and  arrives  at 
each  place  at  7  P.  M. — Distance  9G  miles — fare  $5. 

FROM  HARTFORD  TO  NEW-HAVEN, 

40  miles. 
The  intermediate  places  and  distances  are  as  follows  : 


Miles. 

Wetliersfield, A 

Rocky  Hill, 3 

Middletown, 8 


Miles. 

Durham, 7 

Norlhford, 8 

New-Haven, 10 


Wethersfield  is  located  on  the  west  bank  of  the 
Connecticut  river,  4  miles  below  Hartford.  The  soil, 
which  is  of  the  finest  order,  is  principally  d<n'oted  to  the 
culture  of  onions  ;  of  which  largo  quanlitics  are  export- 
ed annually.  The  labor  is  principally  performed  by 
women  and  children.  The  new  penitentiary  of  the 
state  is  erected  at  this  place. 

RocKT  Hill,  3  miles  ;  a  parish  in  the  town  of  Weth- 
ersfield, containing  a  lofty  eminence,  from  which  a  rich 
and  variegated  prospect  of  the  surrounding  country  is 
enjoyed.  Six  miles  farther  is  a  village,  called  Middle- 
town  Upper  Houses  ;  from  which  to  the  city  of  Middle- 
ton  is  2  miles. 


MIDDI.KTOWN. 


425 


mover, 
^ton  at 
Springs 
mover, 

Mon- 
leaches 

Ire  f!i2. 
ny  ev- 
Jives  at 


\5. 


lows  : 

Miles. 

7 

8 

10 

of  the 
le  soil, 
to  the 
X  port- 
ed by 
3f  the 

Vcth- 
a  rich 
try  is 
ddle- 
ddle- 


MinOLRTOWN 

ts  a  port  of  ^ntry,  and  is  handsomely  located  on  the 
west  bank  of  thi;  Connecticut  river,  31  miles  frorr.  its 
mouth.  Among  its  pid)lic  bnildingH  are  a  cotirt  house, 
jail,  alms-honsc,  bank,  7  cinirches,  and  a  military  acade- 
my. There  are  also  sovoral  extensive  manufactories  of 
rifles,  swords,  buttons,  ivory  combs,  woollen  and  cotton 
goods,  &c.     The  popidation  of  the  city  is  about  7000. 

The  Military  JJcademy  is  pleasantly  situated  a  short 
distance  from  the  city.  The  two  principal  buildings 
arc  each  l^O  feet  lon,!^,  TiO  broad  and  4  stories  high. 
There  is  also  a  chopel,  with  recitation  rooms  above, 
and  a  dining  hall.  Thn  latter  is  120  feet  long,  and  faces 
the  parade.  The  whole  assumes  a  very  handsome  and 
imposing  appearance  ,  and  from  the  top  of  the  chapel 
may  be  had  an  extensive  view  of  the  surrounding  coun- 
try. The  course  of  instruction  is  similar  to  that  pursu- 
ed at  the  military  academy  at  West  Point.  The  schol- 
ars wear  the  uniform  of  cadets  ;  and,  besides  other  sci- 
ences, are  taught  the  tise  of  arms,  and  are  subject  to  a 
strict  military  discipline. 

On  the  eastern  bank  of  the  Connecticut,  opposite  to 
Middletown,  are  several  quarries  of  free  stone,  used  for 
building.  lmmediat(^ly  below  the  city,  the  river  turns 
abnptly  to  the  west ;  and  passes  between  two  lofty 
hills,  forming  what  are  called  the  Narrows.  Within 
these  Narrows,  on  the  south  bank  of  the  river,  is  a  lead 
mine,  which  was  used  during  the  revolutionary  war. 


420 


MIDDLETOWN. 


It  can  be  approoched  only  in  boats  or  by  means  of  a 
foot  path.* 

In  proceeding  on  the  stage  route  to  New-Haven,  the 
only  object  witnessed  worthy  of  remark,  is  a  natural  ice 
house  in  the  parish  of  Northford,  18  miles  from  Middle- 
town,  and  7  from  New-IIaven.  It  is  on  the  declivity 
of  a  trap  ridge  near  the  road  ;  and  contains  ice  through- 
out the  year. 

A  natural  ice  house,  of  still  greater  extent,  is  in  the 
town  of  Meriden,  on  another  route  from  Hartford  to 
New-Haven,  and  nearly  equi-distant  from  those  places. 
The  Journal  of  Science  remarks,  that  it  is  in  a  country 
composing  "a  part  of  the  secondary  trap  region  of  Con- 
necticut, and  is  marked  by  numerous  distinct  ridges  of 
green  stone,  which  present  lofty  mural  precipices,  and 
from  their  number,  contiguity  and  parallelism,  they  of- 
ten form  narrow  precipitous  defiles,  filled  more  or  less 
with  fragments  of  rocks  of  various  sizes,  from  that  of  a 
hand  stone  to  that  of  a  cottage.  These  fragments  are 
the  detritus  or  debris  of  these  mountains,  and  every  one 


*  Continuing  a  course  down  the  river,  the  steam  boat 
successively  passes  Middle  Haddam,  Haddam,  East 
Haddam,  Essex  or  Pettipaug,  and  Saybrook,  where  the 
river  enters  Long  Island  Sound.  The  shores  are  gen- 
erally bold  and  rocky,  and  present  but  few  objects  of 
interest.  Saybrook  was  the  first  town  settled  on  the 
river  ;  at  which  time  (1635)  a  small  fort  was  erected  at 
the  place.  The  town  was  originally  granted  to  Lord 
Say  and  Seal,  Lord  Brook  and  others  ;  and  derived  ita 
name  from  these  pioprietors.  Yale  college  was  located 
here  for  a  time,  and  afterwards  removed  to  New-Haven. 


MIDDl.F.TOWN. 


427 


IS  of  a 

'n,  the 
i^al  ice 
fiddle- 
Iclivity 
rough- 
in  the 
ford  to 
lacea. 
untry 
Con- 
ges of 
and 
y  of. 
less 
t  of  a 
ts  are 
Kone 


in  the  least  ncfjuaintod  with  such  countnrs,  knows  how 
much  they  always  abound  with  similar  ruins. 

In  such  a  defile  the  natural  ice  house  in  question  is 
situated.     On  the  south-western  side,  there  is  a  trap 
ridge  of  naked  perpendicular  rock,  which,  with  the  slo- 
ping ruins  at  the  base,  appears  to  bo  400  feet  high  ; 
the  parallel  ridge  which  forms  the  other  side  of  the  de- 
file is  probably  not  over  40  feet  high,  but  it  rises  abrupt- 
ly on  the  eastern  side,  and  is  covered  by  other  wood, 
which  occupies  the  narrow  valley  also.     This  valley  is, 
moreover,  choked  in  an  astonishing  degree  with  the  ru- 
ins of  the  contiguous  mountain  ridge,  and  exhibits  ma- 
ny fragments  of  rock  which  would  fill  a  large  room. 
As  the  defile  is  very  narrow,  these  fragments  have,  in 
their  fall,  been  arrested  here,  by  the  low  parallel  ridge, 
and  are  piled  on  one  another  in  vast  confusion,  forming 
a  series  of  cavities  which  arc  situated  among  and  under 
these  rocks.     Many  of  them  have  reposed  there  for 
ages,  as  appears  from  the  fact  that  small  trees,  (the 
largest  that  the  scanty  soil,  accumulated  by  revolving 
centuries  can  support)  are  now  growing  on  some  of 
these  fragments  of  rock.     Leaves  also  and  other  vege- 
table ruins  have  accumulated  among  the  rocks  and 
trees,  and  choked  the  mouths  of  many  of  the  cavities 
among  the  ruins.     This  defile,  thus  narrow  and  thus 
occupied  by  forest  and  by  rocky  ruins,  runs  nearly  N. 
and  S.  and  is  completely  impervious  to  the  sun's  rays, 
except  when  he  is  near  the  meridian.    Then,  indeed, 
for  an  hour,  he  looks  into  this  secluded  valley,  but  the 
trees  and  the  rocks  and  the  thick  beds  of  leaves  scarce- 
ly permit  his  beams  to  make  the  slightest  impression. 

MM 


m 


Il^'' 


m  •  •■ 


4  23 


KEW-IlAVEN. 


It  is  in  the  cavities  beneath  the  masses  of  rocks  al- 
ready described,  that  the  ice  is  formed.  The  ground 
descends  a  little  to  the  south,  and  a  small  brook  ap  • 
pears  to  have  formed  a  channel  among  the  rocks.  The 
ice  is  thick  and  well  consolidated,  and  its  gradual  melt- 
ing, in  the  warm  season,  causes  a  stream  of  ice  cold 
water  to  issue  from  this  defile.  This  fact  has  been 
known  to  the  people  of  the  vicinity  for  several  genera- 
tions, and  the  youth  have,  since  the  middle  of  the  last 
century,  been  accustomed  to  resort  to  this  place,  in  par- 
ties, for  recreation,  and  to  drink  the  waters  of  the  cold- 
flowing  brook." 

NEW-HAVEN, 

Twenty^^ve  miles  from  Middletown,  is  usually  pro- 
nounced by  travellers,  to  be  one  of  the  handsomest 
towns  in  the  Union.  It  is  located  around  a  harbor 
which  sets  up  about  4  miles  from  Long  Island  Sound  ; 
and  is  the  semi-capital  of  the  state.  The  city  is  built 
on  a  large  plain,  encircled  on  all  sides,  except  those  oc- 
cupied by  the  water,  by  hills  and  lofty  mountains.  It 
is  divided  into  two  parts,  called  the  old  and  new  town- 
ships ;  in  each  of  which  is  an  open  square.  The  hous- 
es are  generally  neat,  and  some  are  very  elegant.  To 
each  dwelling,  there  is  generally  attached  a  garden,  and 
frequently  a  beautiful  yard  in  front.  Added  to  which, 
several  of  the  streets  are  adorned  with  lofty  trees,  giving 
to  the  whole  a  rural  and  most  delightful  appearance. 
Among  the  public  buildings  are  a  state  house,  the  col- 
lege edifices,  5  churches,  a  court  house,  jail,  2  banks,  a 
custom  house  and  3  or  4  acatlcmies.  The  population  is 
between  11  and  12,000. 


city, 

surroi 

churc 

colle* 

state 

imme 


Hi  * 


^^-^^ 


NEW-HAVEN. 


429 


The  Public  Square  or  Green,  near  the  centre  of  the 
city,  is  an  elegant  spot,  containing  several  acres,  and  is 
surrounded  by  stately  elms.  In  the  centre  are  three 
churches  and  the  state  house ;  on  the  west  side,  the 
college  buildings  ;  and  on  the  east  side,  fronting  the 
state  house,  the  Tontine  Coffee  House.  The  space 
immediately  in  the  rear  of  the  churches,  called  the  Up- 
per Green,  was  formerly  used  as  a  burying  ground  ;  but 
in  1821  the  monuments  were  removed  to  the  new  bury- 
ing ground,  in  the  northwestern  part  of  the  city.  The 
ancient  monument  of  Dixwell,  {see  p.  339,)  is  still  to  be 
seen,  and  it  is  believed  by  many  that  the  other  regicides, 
Goffe  and  Whalley,  were  also  interred  here  ;  but  this 
opinion  is  unsupported  by  evidence.  Goffe  died  at 
Hadley,  and  was  probably  buried  there  ;  and  of  Whal- 
ley no  certain  information  was  ever  obtained  after  he 
left  Hadley. 

Yale  College  was  founded  in  1701,  and  was  named 
after  its  early  benefactor,  Elihu  Yale,  governor  of  the 
East  India  Company.  It  was  originally  located  at  Kil- 
lingworth  ;  afterwards  removed  to  Saybrook,  {see  p. 
426  ;)  and  from  thence,  in  1717,  to  New-Haven.  The 
faculty  is  composed  of  a  president,  10  professors,  a  li- 
brarian and  8  tutors.  The  library  consists  of  about 
10,000  volumes  ;  and  the  literary  societies  among  the 
students  have  libraries  amounting,  collectively,  to  5000 
more.  The  cabinet  of  minerals  is  very  extensive,  and 
by  far  the  most  valuable  of  any  in  the  Union.  The  col- 
lege buildings  consist  of  four  spacious  edifices,  each  4 
stories  high,  104  feet  long  antl  40  wide,  and  each  con- 
taining 32  rooms  for  students  ;  two  chapels,  one  contain - 
ing  a  philosophical  chamber  ;  a  Lyceum,  containing 


"vf, 


ij     -• 


4S0 


n  i:sT  KOf'K. 


the  library  and  rtnitation  rooins — all  of  bri<k  ;  and  a 
handsome  dining  hall  in  the  rear  of  the  other  building?, 
built  of  stone.     Seven  of  these  buildings  stand  in  a  line 
fronting  the  green,  the  Lyceum  occupyinc:  a  central  po- 
sition ;    and   the   whole,  with   the  charming  scenery 
around,  form  a  most  enchanting  and  elegant  landscape. 
Th^  mrdi-  al  'nstitution  fronting  College  street,  is  con- 
nee   '  '    <    h  the  college,  and  has  a  valuable  anatomical 
muii  A!>'      f  he  number  of  students  at  Yale  is  generally 
from  4w  J  to  i.  ■      The  alumni  of  the  institution  amount- 
ed, in  1826,  to  upwards  of  4000  ;  of  whom  more  than 
2200  were  then  living. 

The  J^eAo  Burying  Ground,  containing  several  acres, 
is  divided  into  parallelograms,  which  are  subdivided  for 
families.  The  ground  is  planted  with  trees,  mostly  wil- 
lows ;  and  the  white  monuments,  several  of  which  are 
obelisks,  seen  through  the  foliage,  with  the  taste  and 
uniformity  every  where  discovered,  give  to  the  whole  a 
most  impressive  and  solemn  appearance. 

The  Tontine  Coffee  Houses  is  one  of  the  best  establish- 
ments of  the  kind  in  the  IT.  S.  It  is  located  directly  in 
front  of  the  state  house  and  college  edifices,  the  public 
square  intervening,  coniinandingfrom  its  upper  or  fourth 
story,  a  beautiful  and  extens've  view  of  the  city  and  the 
surrounding  country.  The  Tontine,  which  is  built  of 
brick,  is  80  feet  long,  with  a  wing  extending  back  100 
feet.  It  contains  a  spacious  dining  hall,  cotillion  room, 
8  private  and  pul>lic  parlours,  and  a  sufficient  number 
of  lodging  chambers  to  acrommodate  from  80  to  100 
guests. 

West  Rock  is  '2  miles  north-west  of  New-Haven.    It 
is  the  southern  extremity  of  the  east  ridge  of  the  Green 


ti-AKMINGTON   CANAL. 


-ni 


and  a 
liiling'ii, 
a  line 
[ral  po- 

'cnery 

[scape. 

|s  con- 

)mical 

lerai  ly 

lount- 

than 

acres, 
edfor 
y  wil- 
^h  are 
c  and 
loJe  a 

)lish- 
1.V  in 
ublic 
urth 
I  the 
It  of 
100 
om, 
iber 
100 

It 
3  en 


Mountains,  and  ia  a  porpondicniar  blufl'  fronting  the 
south,  400  feet  in  height.  The  village  of  Hotchkiss- 
town  is  at  its  foot.  The  cave  in  wliicli  the  regicide 
judges,  Whally  and  Goflo,  secreted  themselves  for  three 
or  four  years,  {seep.  339,)  is  on  the  summit  of  the  rock, 
about  a  miie  north  of  the  hlufT.  The  cave  is  formed  by 
the  crevices  between  several  large  rocks,  apparently 
thrown  together  by  some  convulsiou,  and  is  entirely 
uhovc  ground.  Near  the  top  of  one  of  the  rocks  is  this 
inscription  :  "  ()ppoc<ition  to  tyrants  is  obedience  to 
God."  During  the  continuance  of  the  regicides  at  this 
place,  they  were  furnished  daily  with  food  y  r  family 
who  resided  near  the  foot  of  the  mountain. 

East  Rock  is  ':'>  iriiles  north  eastof  New-Havwn,  and  is 
the  southern  termination  of  the  Mount  Tr  n  range  of 
mountains.  It  is  370  feet  high  ;  and  fr  n  its  top  a  fine 
view  is  had  of  New-Ifaven,  its  harbor,  ilie  Sound  and 
Long  Island.  It  was  for  some  vcars  the  residence  of  a 
hermit,  who  was  found  rlead  in  his  habitation  a  few 
years  since. 

The  Farmington  Canal,  which  was  originally  com- 
menced at  thu  no-th  line  of  the  st.ate,  terminates  at  New 
Haven — distance  58  miles,  lockage  218  feet.  This  canal 
has  since  been  extended  to  Northampton,  Mass.  be- 
tween 20  and  30  miles  farther  ;  and  a  branch  has  been 
constructed  from  Farmington  up  the  Farmington  river, 
to  New-Hartford,  15  miles. 

The  towns  bordering  on  the  sound,  near  New-Ha- 
ven, arc  visited  in  the  summer  months  by  numerous 
invalids  for  the  benefit  of  the  sea  breeze  and  a  salubri- 
ous cliiiiatr.  /Vmong  these  towns,  Guilford,  15  miles 
east  of  ?re\v-r-Iaven,  is  generally  preferred.     It  has  two 

mm2 


432 


FROM  NEW-HAVEN   TO  NEW-VOnK. 


IS  i"i*!'l 


harbors,  is  a  place  of  considerable  trade,  and  is  con- 
stantly supplied  with  the  best  of  oysters,  lobsters  and 
fish,  taken  in  and  near  the  harbors. 

Steam  Boats  ply  between  New-Haven  and  New- York 
daily,  leaving  the  former  place  at  8  P.  M.  and  the  latter 
at  7  A.  M.  The  passage  is  generally  performed  in  8  or 
9  hours.     Fare  $2. 

Stages  leave  New-Haven  daily,  for  Hartford,  Boston, 
Albany,  and  New- York.  Distance  to  Hartford  40 
miles;  to  Boston,  136  miles;  to  Albany,  110  miles; 
to  New- York,  86  miles.* 


AbI 
ing  t1 


*  This  route  is  usually  performed  in  12  or  14  hours, 
and  the  intervening  places  and  distances  are  as  follows : 


Miles. 

Stratford, 13 

Bridgeport, 3 

FairSeld, 5 

Norwalk, 10 


Miles, 

Stamford, 11 

Greenwich, 6 

Harlsem, 30 

New- York, 8 


Bridgeport  is  handsomely  situated  on  both  banks 
of  the  Fughquonnuck  river.  The  village  contains  a 
bank  and  two  churches. 

Fairfield  is  a  port  of  entry  on  Long  Island  Sound, 
containing  a  court  house,  academy,  several  churches, 
and  a  population  of  about  2000.  It  was  on  a  low  level 
piece  of  ground,  which  is  seen  on  the  left  side  of  the 
road  about  a  mile  and  a  half  after  leaving  the  village, 
that  the  remnant  of  the  Pequot  tribe  of  Indians,  after 
the  destruction  of  their  fort  by  Capt.  Mason  at  Mystic, 
(seep.  414,)  were  either  killed  or  captured.  The  battle 
was  severe  and  bloody,  and  some  relics  of  arms  used 
in  the  contest  are  at  this  day  occasionally  found  by  the 
inhabitants. 

NoRWAi.K  is  on  thp  Pound,  nud  is  a  pioasant  village, 
containincT  an  academv  and  3  churclits. 


tlW 


FROM  NCW.U4VEN   TO  LITCHFIELD. 


433 


s  con- 
ks and 

■York 
latter 


»Ies  : 


.   11 

>     6 
..  30 

..     8 

>anks 
ins  a 


.   FROM  NEW-HAVEN  TO  LITCHFIELD. 

A  stage  leaves  New-Haven  daily  for  Litchfield,  pass- 
ing through  Waterbury  and  Watertown — distance  38 
miles. 

Passing  "West  Rock,  {see  p.  430,)  and  proceeding 
from  thence  for  a  considerable  distance  in  a  northerly 
direction,  through  a  beautiful  valley,  having  on  its  right 
a  lofty  rocky  barrier,  with  rude  perpendicular  preci- 
pices, Beacon  Mountain  is  reached  in  travelling  i4  miles 
from  New-Haven.  This  mountain  is  a  ridge  of  almost 
naked  rocks  stretching  to  the  south-west.  "The  road, 
which  is  formed  in  the  natural  gap  of  the  mountain, 
here  winds  through  a  bold  gulf  or  defile,  so  narrow, 
that  at  one  place  only  a  single  carriage  can  pass  at 
once.  On  both  sides,  the  cliffs  are  lofty,  particularly 
on  the  left ;  and  on  the  right,  a  little  distance  from  the 
road,  they  overhang  in  a  frightful  manner."  Beyond 
this  gap,  the  road  turns  more  to  the  left,  running  along 
a  rivulet ;  and  after  three  or  four  miles,  on  rising  an 
eminence,  the  Naugatuck,  a  branch  of  the  Housatonic 


West  Chester  County,  which  is  entered  in  a  few 
miles  after  leaving  Greenwich,  and  which  was  "  neu- 
tral ground"  during  the  revolutionary  war,  was  selected 
by  Mr.  Cooper,  the  novellist,  as  the  principal  scene  of 
his  "Spy." 

At  HoRSENECK,  33  milcL  from  N.  York,  the  traveller 
is  shown  the  steep,  down  which  Gen.  Putnam  descend- 
ed on  horse-back  during  the  revolution. 

At  Harl.^m.  S  milf^s  from  New-York,  the  »-oad  ni?3- 
es  near  t  ic  'ilasi  iiver,  affording  the  tiavcUci  a  vu-w  of 
Hurl  Gate.     {See  p.  Mo.) 


431 


MTt  HFir.LO. 


river,  is  disrove^rod.     It,  runf  through' a  dncp  and  nni'- 
row  gulf,  which  ifl  seon  from  the  road. 

Watertown,  2G  mih^fl  from  Now-Ifavcn,  is  on  a 
commanding  hill,  and  is  a  boautiful  littlo  village,  con- 
taining two  churches. 

Litchfield  is  on  a  handsome  eminence,  and  is  con- 
sidered one  of  the  most  pleasant  villages  in  the  state. 
The  principal  street  extends  more  than  a  mile  in  length, 
and  contains  a  collection  of  neat  houses,  adorned  with 
gardens  and  court  yards.  Among  the  public  buildings 
are  a  court  house,  jail,  bank  and  two  churches.  There 
is  also  at  this  place  a  young  ladies'  school,  which  has 
obtained  much  celebrity ;  and  a  distinguished  law 
school,  established  in  1G84,  by  the  late  Tapping  Reeve, 
and  now  under  the  charge  of  the  Hon.  James  Gould. 
The  number  of  students  educated  at  this  institution 
since  its  establishment  is  between  6  and  700. 

Mount  Toni,  near  the  south-west  corner  of  this  town, 
is  700  feet  above  the  river  at  its  base,  and  affords  from 
its  top  an  extensive  prospect. 

The  Great  Pond,  in  Litchfield,  comprises  an  area  of 
about  900  acres,  is  the  largest  in  the  state,  and  is  a 
beautiful  sheet  of  water,  affording  at  its  outlet  a  num- 
ber of  valuable  mill  scats. 

Ji  Chalybeate  Spring  has  been  discovered  M^ithin  a 
few  years,  on  the  east  side  of  Mount  Prospect,  four 
miles  west  of  the  village  of  Litchfield.  It  issues  from 
an  extensive  bed  of  sulphuret  of  iron,  and  is  copious 
and  perrennial,  exhibiting  in  its  course  much  oxide  of 
iron,  ochre,  and  a  white  deposit. 

Mount,  Prospect,  i?  a  rocky,  wood  clad,  elf-vatod  ridge, 
of  two  miles  extent.     From  its  summit  an  interestintr 


'mi: 


FROM   M'K  llt'lKI  I)    iO   il  VKTKOIil). 


435 


nni- 

on  a 
con- 

con- 
tatc. 
ngth, 
with 


lings 


and  diversified  view  is  presented  of  villages  and  lakes, 
imd  of  a  well  cultivated,  healthy  country. 

From  Litchfield,  a  stage  may  be  taken  daily,  passing 
through  East  Goshen,  Norfolk,  Canaan,  SheHiel«l, 
Great  Barrington,  West  Stockbridgc,  Chatham,  Nas- 
sau, Schodack  and  Greenhush  to  Albany,  and  reaching 
the  latter  place  in  about  24  hours.  Distance  72  miles 
— fare  $4.  This  is  the  most  direct  route,  also,  from 
Litchfield  to  Saratoga  Springs  ;  but,  to  make  the  tour 
of  New-England  more  complete,  it  is  reconmiended  to 
proceed  from  Litchfield  to  Hartford,  and  from  thence 
up  the  beautiful  valley  of  the  Connecticut  river,  which 
is  variegated  with  villages  and  country  seats,  and  pre- 
sents some  of  the  finest  scenery  on  the  continent. 


FROM  LITCHFIELD  TO  HARTFORD. 

A  stage  may  be  taken  at  Litchfield  daily,  except 
Sundays,  at  4  A.  M.  passing  through  llarwinton,  Bur- 
lington and  Farmington,  and  reaching  Hartford  at  11 
A.  M.     Distance  30  miles — fare  $2. 

Harwinton  is  a  small  village,  7  miles  from  Litch- 
field, on  the  Naugatuck  river. 

Burlington,  7  miles. 

Farmington,  6  miles.  This  is  a  pleasant  village,  lo- 
cated on  the  Farmington  river,  which,  after  leaving  the 
village,  takes  a  northerly  course  for  15  miles,  where  it 
is  joined  by  the  Salmon  river.  It  then  turns  to  the 
south-east,  passing  between  lofty  mountains  and  de- 
scends a  cataract  of  150  feet;  after  which  it  is  called 
the  Windsor  river,  and  joins  the  Connecticut  4  miles 
above  Hartford.     Farmington  contains  3  churches  and 


436 


ROUTE  i:r   THE  CONNECTICUT  RIVER. 


B:.-  I 


a  population  of  between  2  and  300(>.  [For  a  notice  ot" 
the  Farmin^ton  canal,  which  passes  through  this  place, 
see  page  33G.] 

Hartford,  10  miles.     {See  p.  120.) 

ROUTE  UP  THE  VALLEY  OF  THE  CON- 
NECTICUT RIVER. 

Stages  run  daily  between  Hartford,  Conn,  and  Han- 
over, N.  H.  up  the  Connecticut  river,  as  noticed  at  page 
423.  Passing  through  East  Hartford,  {sec  p.  420,)  the 
first  village  reached  is 

Windsor,  7  miles  from  Hartford,  located  on  the  west 
bank  of  the  river.  Settlements  were  commenced  at 
this  place  as  well  as  at  Harliord,  in  1G33. 

Enfield,  9  miles.  A  canal  has  been  recently  con- 
structed around  the  falls  at  this  place,  of  suflicient  di- 
mensions to  receive  Bteam-l)oals  ;  and  they  now  pass 
as  far  up  as  Sprijiglicld  without  difViculty,  and  except 
in  very  low  water,  for  a  considerable  distance  above 
V^indsor,  Vt.  This  canal  commrncc&  at  the  head  of 
the  Falls,  by  a  wing  dam  700  feet  long,  which  reaches 
to  the  middle  of  the  river.  Froni  the  Krser  end  of  the 
wing  dam  a  pier  extend ;-;  down  200  feet  paralUl  to  and 
100  feet  from  the  west  bank,  and  is  raised  above  the 
river  so  as  to  form  a  basin  and  safe  entrance  to  the 
Grand  Lock.  At  right  angles  to  this  pier,  a  breast  wr.ll 
of  solid  masonry,  strengthened  by  butrcssea,  extends 
70  feet  towards  the  bank,  and  is  there  united  to  the 
grand  lock.  This  and  the  breast  wall  arc  sixteen  feet 
higher  than  the  surface  of  the  water  in  the  canal,  pre-* 
senting  a  firm  defence  against  tlie  highest  floods.     Thy 


m   .A 

f J  -  4 


«H!M  IF,LI>. 


AM 


lotice  of 
J3  placo, 


:oN. 

d  rian- 

at  \>a^e 

fO,)  the 

ic  west 
ccd  at 


y  con- 
cnt  di- 
V  pass 
except 
above 
cad  of 
'aches 
3f  (he 
o  and 
/c  the 
o  the 
i  vvr.ll 
tends 
0  tlio 

feet 

pre- 
Tho 


breast  wall  covrrs  twelve  sluices,  with  slidin^^  ^ates,  for 
the  free  admission  of  water  for  hydraulic  purposes. 
The  river  hanks  are  generally  high  and  rocky,  for  about 
three  miles  below  the  ^rand  lock,  and  the  Ctanal  is 
formed  by  an  embankment  «>('  earth  raised  in  the  bed  of 
the  river  and  protected  on  the  outside  by  a  stone  wall. 
Two  miles  below  the  ^viard  lock,  Mill  brook  crosses 
the  line  of  the  canal,  and  is  passed  by  an  acjueduct  of 
90  feet  lonjT  anu  fiO  feet  wide,  having  six  piers  and 
abutments  of  substantial  masonry.  The?  height  of  the 
artificial  embank  men!  increases  gradually,  as  it  passes 
down  the  river,  until  it  rises  to  a  perpendicular  eleva- 
tion of  25  feet,  when  tlie  hif',h  river  bank  retires  to  the 
west,  and  the  canal  is  carried  al)out  two  miles  over  land 
to  its  termination  below  the  falls.  Here  are  three  locks 
of  masonry  of  ten  feet  lift  each.  The  locks  are  sepa- 
rated by  i)ools  50  feet  wide,  in  which  ascending  and 
descending  boats  may  pass  each  other,  and  avoid  the 
detention  which  is  unavoidable  where  several  locks  are 
combined  in  a  connected  line.  The  dimensions  of  the 
locks  are  90  feet  by  20  in  the  clear,  and  they  are  calcu- 
lated to  have  four  feet  depth  of  water.  The  depth  of 
the  canal  varies  from  four  to  twenty  feet.  The  aver- 
age width,  at  the  surface  of  the  water,  is  about  seventy 
feet,  and  the  total  length  Hve  and  a  luvlf  miles. 

SuFFiEi.D,  1  mile  from  Enfield,  on  the  west  bank  of 
the  river,  is  a  beautiful  town.  The  village,  which  is  on 
an  eminence  about  a  mile  west  of  the  river  road,  is 
com])osed  principally  of  one  street,  half  a  mile  in  ex- 
lent.  The  houses,  with  th(  ir  luindsome  gardens  and 
yards,  present  a   picturrHcpjo  iiml  rh^gant   npi^'aiance. 


fl 


(b' 


133 


SPRINGFIELD. 


rl^i 


m-^: 

4:'!: 


.    I'; 


i-'',',  Itl 


4!^  . 


A  sulphur  spring,  a  mile  or  two  south-west  of  the  vil- 
lage, is  a  place  of  some  resort  by  invalids. 

West  Springfield,  9  miles,  is  located  on  the  west 
bank  of  the  Connecticut  river,  and  contains  several 
handsome  private  dwellings.  A  bridge  here  crosses 
the  river,  connecting  the  place  with 

Springfield,  on  the  opposite  side  ;  which  is  a  large 
and  handsome  village.  The  houses  are  principally  lo- 
cated at  "he  foot  of  a  hill ;  on  the  west  side  of  which 
are  several  elegant  residences,  and  on  the  summit  a  U. 
S.  arsenal.  The  village  contains  a  court  house,  jail, 
two  churches,  and  several  manufactories. 

The  buildings  composing  the  arsenal  on  the  heights, 
occupy  a  large  square,  and  are  surrounded  by  a  high 
wall.  They  are  mostly  built  of  brick  and  present  a 
magnificent  appearance.  About  13,000  muskets  are 
manufactured  here  annually.  The  water  works  em- 
ployed for  the  purpose  are  on  Mill  river,  a  mile  south 
of  the  arsenal. 

Springfield  became  the  theatre  of  savage  barbarity 
during  Philip's  war  in  1675.  The  towns  still  further  up 
the  river  had,  for  some  time  previous,  suffered  severely 
from  repeated  Indian  incursions.  But  the  Springfield 
tribe  had  thus  far  remained  quiet ;  and  it  was  not  till 
the  month  of  October  of  this  year,  that  Philip  could 
succeed  by  his  artifices,  to  enlist  them  in  his  favor.  On 
the  night  of  the  4th,  it  was  ascertained  by  means  of  a 
friendly  Indian,  that  300  of  the  tribe  had  suddenly  and 
secretly  assembled  at  a  fort  on  Long  Hill,  about  a  mile 
below  the  village.  This  intelligence  produced  much 
consternation  among  the  inhabitants;  and  they  imme- 
diately repaired  to  their  fortified  houses.     No  distur- 


SO(  1  H    [lADlCY    lAI.I  ".. 


439 


bance,  however,  occurring  in  the  night,  hopes  were  en- 
tertained that  hostiUties  were  not  intended  on  the  part 
of  the  Indians.  Lieut.  Cooper,  the  conimandani  of  the 
place,  and  another,  accordingly  resolved  on  repairing 
to  the  fort,  for  the  purpose  of  dissipating  the  fears  that 
still  existed  among  the  inhabitants.  Having  reached 
the  small  stream  at  the  lower  part  of  the  village.  Coop- 
er and  [lis  companion  were  shot  by  Indians  who  were 
concealed  in  tlie  woods.  This  vsoemed  to  be  a  signal 
for  attack  ;  as  the  whole  body  immediately  rushed  into 
the  town  with  a  horrid  yell,  and  set  fire  to  the  unforti- 
fied dwellin«:s  and  barns.  The  whole  were  soon  finvel- 
oped  in  flames  and  consumed.  During  this  period,  a  fire 
was  kept  up  from  the  fortified  houses  upon  the  Indians, 
and  several  killed  ;  but  it  was  not  till  they  had  destroy- 
ed 32  dwellings  and  nearly  as  many  bams,  and  plun- 
dered every  thing  within  their  reach,  that  they  with- 
drew. A  brick  house  standing  at  the  time  of  this  ca- 
tastrophe, is  still  in  tolerable  preservation. 

During  the  rebellion  of  Shays,  in  1786,  the  armory 
at  this  place  was  attacked  by  him.  But  he  was  repuls- 
ed, with  the  loss  of  a  few  men  ;  and  his  followers  sub- 
sequently dispersed. 

Pursuing  the  course  of  the  river  on  the  west  side, 
over  a  beautiful  country. 

South  Hadley  Falls  are  reached  in  going  12  miles 
from  Springfield.  The  river  here  descends  in  the  dis- 
tance of  two  and  a  half  miles,  52  feet ;  and  on  the  east 
side,  commencing  at  South  Hadley  village,  a  canal  has 
been  constructed,  corresponding  in  extent  with  these 
fulls,  through  which  lumber  mid  the  largest  boats  pass. 

NN 


li 


410 


UATFIEI.n. 


J4  ! 


W 


,» 


*  (I 


mi 


Previous  to  reaching  Northampton,  the  river,  (in  which 
there  is  an  ahrupt  tnrn,)  passes  between  Mount  Tom 
rm  the  south,  and  Mount  Holyoke  {see  p.  337)  en  the 
north.  North  of  the  latter  mountain,  a  most  charming 
and  extensive  phiin  is  presented,  embracing  niiiny  ele- 
gant villages  and  country  scats. 

North AMPTON^  5  miles  from  ^outh  Hadlcy.  (Sec  p. 
.336.) 

IIadley,  2  miles  cast  of  Northampton.     ( See  p.  339.) 

Hatfield,  5  miles  north  of  Northampton,  on  the 
west  side  of  the  river,  is  a  neat  and  venerable  town, 
having  been  settled  as  early  as  1658.  In  Ociober,  1675, 
after  the  b\u-ning  of  Springfield,  {see  p.  43H,)  the  Indi- 
ans under  Philip,  Hushed  witli  their  repeated  successes, 
made  an  attack  on  Hatfield  ;  which  wjis  then  defend- 
ed Uy  two  companies,  aided  by  a  third,  which  came  to 
their  relief  during  the  conflict.  The  Indians  were  about 
700  strong,  and  made  a  furious  assault  upon  the  town 
in  various  directions,  oillaging  and  burning  several  of 
the  house?.  But  lh(^y  were  dffrated,  and  compelled  to 
seek  safety  in  a  precipitate  llight. 

On  the  30th  of  May  of  the  following  year,  another 
attack  was  made  upon  Hatfield  by  600  Indians.  Twelve 
unfortified  buildings  were  inuuediately  burnt ;  but  the 
others,  which  were  pallisaded,  were  defended  by  a  few 
inhabitants.  Part  of  the  Indians  then  repaired  to  the 
fields,  and  attacked  the  men  at  their  labor ;  but  25 
young  men  crossed  the  river  from  Hadley,  and  rushing 
upon  the  Indians,  killed  several,  and  finally,  with  the 
aid  of  the  inhahitnnt.s,  dispersed  them. 


■4 

'■K   Q 


i-S-';:i    ** 


MU^DY   IJROOK. 


'IIJ 


in  which 
nt  Tom 
)  en  the 
larming 
;  ny  cle- 

( See  p, 

p.  339,) 

on  the 
Ic  town, 
E3r,  1675, 
le  Inrli- 
ccesses, 
dcfend- 
camo  to 
ro  about 
he  town 
veral  of 
eliod  to 

mother 
Fwelve 
but  the 
y  a  few 
to  the 
but  25 
ushinfi: 
th  the 


Muddy  Brook,  9  miles  from  IJutficld,  is  a  snmll  vil- 
lage, deriving  its  name  from  a  stream  which    passes 
throuiih  the  place,  bordered  by  a  narrow  nmrass.     The 
place  in  IG75,  and  for  some  time  subsecpieni,  was  call- 
ed Bloody  Brook,  in  consecjuiMice  of  a  biitlle  which  was 
fought  with  the  Indians  on   the  18th  of  September  of 
tliat  year.     C'apt.  Lothrop,  who  had  been  despatched 
with  80  men  and  several  teams,  to  scu'ure  a  (juantity  of 
wheat  in  T3cerh<^ld,  two  or  three  miles  farther  north, 
was  surprised  on  his  return  through  this  place,  by  a 
party  of  700  Indiaus,  who  had   secretly  watched  his 
movements,  and  who  lay  in  ambush  awaiting  his  ar- 
rival.    He  had  no   sooner  crossed   l.lie   small   stream 
above  mentioned,  than  they  rushed  upon  him,  pouring 
in  such  a  deadly  lire  as  to  produce  complete  discomfit- 
ure.    Lothrop  and  his  men  fled  ;  but  being  pursued 
and  overtaken  at  all  points,  they  resolvi^d  to  sell  their 
lives  in  a  vigorous  struggle.     They  accordingly  posted 
themselves  behirnl  the   neighboring   trees  ;  when    the 
conflict  became  a  trial  of  skill  in  sharp  shooting.     At 
length  the  struggle  terminated  in  the  annihilation  of 
nearly  the  whole  of  the  English.     Lothrop  was  kdled  in 
the  early  part  of  the  action  ;  and  his  loss,  including 
teamsters,  amounted  to  ninety.     The  tronps  at  Peer- 
field,  under  Captain   Mosely,  hearing  the   musketry, 
hastened  to  the  scene  of  combat,  and  arrived  soon  af- 
ter its  close.     They  found  the   Indians   stripping  the 
slain.      ATosely  imj)r(>ving    the  frtvorf!)le  opportunity, 
rushed  upon  them  and   cut   them  down  in    all   diree- 
t'ons,  driving  the  remainder  into  t^e  adjacent  swamps. 
The  next  morning,  it  was  found  that  a  few  Indians  had 


1^%  * 


•142 


DEnRKILl.L', 


?i  '■''* 


returned  to  the  Held  of  battle  for  the  purpose  of  plunder  ; 
but  they  were  woon  dispersed. 

Though  the  loss  of  the  enemy  on  tiie  previous  day 
was  estimated  ut  about  100,  the  engagement  was,  nev- 
ertheless, more  disastrous  in  its  consequences  to  the 
English.  The  destiiiction  of  00  valuable  men,  the 
flower  of  a  thinly  scattered  population,  was  calculated 
to  produce  much  despondency,  and  occasion  the  most 
serious  apprehensions  for  the  safety  of  the  remaining 
colonists. 

The  place  where  this  battle  was  fought  is  near  the 
centre  of  the  village,  about  30  rods  south  of  the  church. 
The  bridge  over  the  stream  is  located  at  the  place  where 
Lothrop  crossed.  Some  remains  of  a  coarse  monument 
once  erected  here  are  still  visible. 

Deerfield,  3  miles  from  Muddy  Brook,  and  17 
miles  north  of  Northampton,  is  a  handsome  village  on 
the  west  bank  of  the  Connecticut  river.  It  is  in  the 
midst  of  a  very  fertile  and  beautiful  country,  presenting 
a  succession  of  rich  and  highly  cultivated  farms.  The 
tow:.'  was  among  the  early  settlements  on  the  river  ; 
and,  more  than  any  other  place  was  the  theatre  of  In- 
dian warfare.  In  September,  1675,  an  attack  was  made 
or.  the  place,  one  man  killed  and  several  houses  redu- 
ced to  ashes.  For  about  20  years  subsequent  to  this, 
ow',n*7  to  repeated  incursions  of  the  savages,  the  inhab- 
itants were  often  compelled  to  abandon  their  dwellings 
an^  se  k  a  temporary  asylum  in  the  neighboring  towns. 
During  ihe  French  wars  under  William  and  Anne,  how- 
ever, they  maintained  their  ground  until  1704;  made 
manj'  imprcvoments  and  enclosed  the  centre  of  the  vil- 
lage by  an  extensive  but  imperfect    pallisaded  work. 


r 

V 


DEERFIKl.I). 


413 


This  fortification  was  attacked  by  ubcjut  350  L'rcnch 
and  Indians  in  the  month  of  February  of  that  year. 
They  had  secretly  taken  a  position  two  mih  s  north  of 
the  village  on  the  evcninrr  of  the  9th  ;  from  whence 
they  cautiously  proceeded  to  the  fort  lh<  next  morninjr 
before  day.  There  beins:  no  sentinels  posted,  the  for- 
tification was  easily  entored,  and  the  work  of  destruc- 
tion commenced  ere  the  inhabitants  hnd  aroused  from 
their  slumbers.  A  feeble  n  sistanco,  only,  could  be 
made.  All  the  houses,  except  on^",  within  the  palli- 
sades,  were  burnt  ;  between  40  and  60  of  the  inhabi- 
tants were  killed,  and  112,  includinrr  w(>men  and  chil- 
dren made  ptisoners.  In  The  drear  of  winter,  with  a 
scanty  supply  of  provisions,  and  with  little  clothinif, 
the  unfortmidte  cnptives  were  compflled  to  take  up 
their  line  of  march  for  Canada.  iMr.  Williams,  the 
clergyman  of  the  place,  and  his  family,  were  of  the  num- 
ber. His  wife*  was  murdered  in  two  or  three  days  af- 
ter commencinjff  the  excursion  ;  and  sixteen  others  ci- 
ther died  or  were  massacred  before  reaching  the  Pro- 
vince. Most  of  those  who  survived,  atter  remaining  in 
captivity  for  some  time,  were  redeemed.  A  daughter  of 
Mr.  Williams,  however,  who  had  married  an  Indian 
chief,  refused  to  return.  She  assumed  the  habihment  of 
a  savage,  and  died  in  Canada  some  years  afterwards. 
Several  of  her  descendants  are  still  living  there. 

The  house  which  survived  the  conflagration  at  Deer- 
field  is  still  standing,  and  is  owned  by  Col.  Elihu  Hoyt. 

*  She  was  atYerwards,  with  her  husband,  interred  in 
t!ie  church-yard  at  Deerfiold  ;  and  marble  slabs  placed 
over  their  graves. 

N>;2 


444 


tukner's  falls. 


'»;- 


flSi, 


m 


It  is  in  a  tolerable  state  of  preservation,  and  exhibits  to 
this  day  the  perforation  made  in  the  door  by  toma- 
hawks, as  well  as  the  marks  of  balls  in  the  interior. 
One  of  these  marks  is  shown,  as  having  been  made  by 
a  ball  which  killed  a  female  in  the  house  ;  and  in  one 
of  the  timbers  a  bullet  is  seen,  which  has  never  been 
extracted. 

Greenfield,  4  miles  from  Deerfield,  is  a  large  and 
pleasant  village,  on  the  west  side  of  the  river  ;  from 
which  it  is  distant  2  miles.  It  contains  a  court  house, 
jail,  bank  and  3  churches.  It  is  a  central  position  for 
the  trade  of  the  surrounding  country  ;  and  is  a  place  of 
wealth  and  enterprise.  A  young  Ladies^  Seminary  at 
this  place  is  beautifully  located  and  under  excellent 
regulations. 

Turner's  Falls,  on  the  Connecticut  river,  are  3 
miles  from  Greenfield,  in  a  north-easterly  direction. 
The  road  taken  in  visiting  them  is  cast  of  the  ordinary 
stage  route  ;  and  it  is  customary,  therefore,  after  an  ex- 
cursion to  the  falls,  to  return  to  Greenfield.  The  route 
is  principally  over  the  ground  taken  by  Capt.  Turner, 
in  his  attack  on  the  Indians  in  1676.  The  fall  is  be- 
tween forty  and  fifty  feet ;  but  by  the  erection  of  a  dam 
for  the  accommodation  of  a  canal,  the  cataract  has  lost 
much  of  its  original  wildness. 

The  Indians,  amounting  to  several  hundreds,  having 
taken  a  position  on  elevated  ground,  on  the  west  bank 
of  the  river  at  the  head  of  the  fall,  it  was  deemed  im- 
portant to  dislodge  them.  This  service  was  undertak- 
en by  Capt.  Turner,  at  the  head  of  about  160  mounted 
troops.     Up  Ipft  Hatfiold   on   rho   17th  of  Mav,    1676, 


;t 


BERNAHD«tTOV>  N VtUNOM. 


4'lii 


and  reached  within  half  a  mile  of  the  Indian  encamp- 
ment before  day  tlie  next  morning  without  discovery. 
Here  his  men  left  their  horses,  and  by  a  rapid  march, 
reached  the  camp  before  the  Indians  awoke  from  their 
slumbers.  A  deadly  and  destructive  fire  was  immedi- 
ately commenced.  Believing  it  to  proceed  from  their 
ancient  and  powerful  enemy  the  Mohawks,  many  of 
the  Indians  fled  to  the  river,  and  leaped  into  their  ca- 
noes ;  but  in  attempting  to  cross,  they  were  mostly 
shot  or  precipitated  over  the  cataract.  Others  fled  to 
the  rocks  of  the  river  bank,  where  they  were  cut  down, 
without  resistance  ; ,  and  few  escaped  the  victorious 
arm  of  the  assailants.  One  hundred  were  left  dead  on 
the  field  ;  one  hundred  and  forty  were  seen  to  descend 
the  cataract ;  and  their  whole  loss  was  afterwards  as- 
certained to  have  been  300.  Turner  lost  but  one  man. 
In  his  retreat,  he  was  less  fortunate.  He  was  at- 
attacked  by  other  parties  of  Indians  on  the  route — his 
men  divided — himself  killed  ;  and  the  loss  of  his  party, 
before  they  reached  Hatfield,  amounted  to  between  30 
and  40.  Capt.  T.  is  supposed  to  have  fallen  in  what  is 
called  Greenfield  Meadow,  at  the  mouth  of  a  small 
stream  on  which  a  mill  now  stands  ;  as  his  body  was 
afterwards  found  at  that  place  by  a  scouting  party  of 
the  English. 

Bernardstown,  5  miles  north  of  Greenfie.'d. 

Vernon,  6  miles  ;  the  first  town  reached  in  entering 
the  state  of  Vermont.  Fort  Dummer,  built  to  protect 
the  inhabitants  against  the  Indiana,  was  located  at  thii 
place. 


I. 


-^^MMlHMn 


lit 


446 


GUILFORD — CHARLESTOWn. 


1 1W 


i^ ,}'. 


Jrt.; 


Guilford,  5  miles.  Here  are  two  slate  quarries  and 
fleveral  mills  and  manufactories. 

Brattleborough,  6  miles,  a  flourishing  village,  is 
located  on  the  west  bank  of  the  Connecticut  river ; 
over  which  there  is  a  permanent  bridge.  White  stone 
creek  also  passes  through  the  place,  affording  a  num- 
ber of  good  mill  sites.  The  village  contains  a  bank, 
the  most  extensive  printing  establishment  in  the  state, 
and  several  manufactories.  Stages  pass  daily  between 
this  place  and  Boston,  Hartford,  Albany  and  Hanover. 

DuMMERSTON,  5  miles. 

Putney,  5  miles. 

Westminster,  5  miles.  The  first  newspaper  print- 
ed in  Vermont  was  issued  from  a  press  at  this  place  ; 
though  it  was  discontinued  several  years  since  for  want 
of  patronage.  The  village  is  located  on  a  beautiful 
plain  on  the  west  bank  of  the  Connecticut ;  but  it  has 
not  improved  much  within  the  last  twenty  years. 

Walpole,  N.  H.  to  which  a  bridge  leads,  is  on  the 
opposite  side  of  the  river,  and  is  noticed  at  page  347. 

Bellows  Falls,  on  the  Vermont  side,  4  miles  from 
Walpole.  {See  p.  346.)  Proceeding  up  the  river  over 
a  beautiful  plain, 

Charlestown,N.  H.  is  reached  in  travelling  8  miles 
from  Bellows  Falls.  It  is  handsomely  located  on  the 
east  side  of  the  river,  and  is  a  neat  village,  containing  a 
court  house,  jail  and  bank. 

A  fort  was  built  for  the  defence  of  this  place  in  1743, 
on  rising  ground  south  of  the  church,  over  which  the 
present  street  passes.     In  March,  1 747,  while  the  fort 


8»'iiiN(;nr,i  n. 


447 


was  occupied  hy  Capt.  Stevens  antl  ihirty  men,  a  furi- 
ous assault  was  made  upon  it  by  a  large  body  ofFrench 
and  Indians,  under  tlie  command  of  M.  Debeline.  The 
fort  beinir  composed  of  materials  which  were  combusti- 
blp,  the  enon\y  attempted  its  destruction,  by  setting  a 
lop  house  and  the  fences  to  the  windward  on  fire.  To 
guard  a^fainst  a  confla«fration,  the  besieged  through 
great  exertions,  succeeded  in  making  several  subterra- 
nean passages  under  the  parapet,  with  an  opening  at 
the  top  of  each.  From  these  passages,  which  were 
deep  enough  to  protect  the  men  from  the  enemy's  shot, 
water,  taken  from  a  well  w  itliin  the  fort,  was  thrown 
upon  the  parapet,  and  the  plan  of  the  enemy  frustrated. 
A  sort  of  mantelet  J  loaded  with  dry  faggots,  set  on  fire, 
was  then  forced  towards  the  fort,  accompanied  with 
flaming  arrows  ;  but  all  to  no  purpose.  Stevens  main- 
tained his  position,  continued  a  fire  upon  the  enemy 
whenever  he  presented  himself,  and  refused  all  proposi- 
tions of  a  surrender.  After  an  assault  of  three  days, 
and  suffering  severely  in  the  loss  of  his  men,  Debeline 
withdrew  from  the  siege.  None  of  Stevens'  men  were 
killed,  and  but  two  wounded. 

For  this  brave  defence.  Sir  Charles  Knowles,  com- 
mandant of  a  naval  force  then  in  Boston  harbor,  sent 
Capt.  Stevens  an  elegant  sword.  The  town  was  sub- 
quently  named  in  honor  of  Sir  Charles. 

From  Charlestown,  a  stage  may  be  taken  daily  for 
Saratoga  Springs,  passing  through  Chester,  Manches- 
ter, &c. ;  or  for  Boston,  passing  through  Walpole, 
Keene,  &c.     ( See  p.  346  to  ?>50.) 

Springfield,  Vt.  on  the  west  side  of  the  river,  5 
miles  from  Charlestown. 


I 


i 


iii«  I  r  I  iii»><a! 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


1.0 


I.I 


11.25 


us  Ui   12.2 


Sdences 
Corporation 


23  WIST  MAIN  STREIT 

WEBSTIR.N.Y.  MStO 

(716)  S72-4503 


'^ 


m 


\ 


iV 


\\ 


<^ 


'^. 


6^ 


^>^ 


0 


^Z^ 


V 


5V^0 


448 


WEATHrRSFIEI-D — HANOVKH. 


Weathersfield,  6  miles  ;  a  fine  agricultural  town- 
ship. Jarvis'  farm,  at  what  is  termed  Weathersfield 
Bow  (a  turn  in  the  river)  is  eonsidered  one  of  the  hest 
in  Vermont. 

Windsor,  7  miles.     {See  p.  353.) 

Hartland,  7  miles. 

Hartford,  7  miles.  There  are  two  handsome  villa- 
ges in  this  town  ;  one  near  the  junction  of  the  W'hite 
river,  and  the  other  near  the  junction  of  the  Ctueechy 
river  with  the  Connecticut.  In  both  there  are  several 
mills  and  manufactories.  From  Hartford,  the  river  is 
crossed  to 

Hanover,  (noticed  at  p.  355,)  from  which  a  stage 
may  be  taken  daily  for  Burlington,  Vt.  or  Boston. 


FINIS. 


town- 
rsfield 
e  best 


villa- 

Vhite 

eechy 

everal 

iver  is 

stage 


